If you're gonna build a bike from the ground up, you might as well do it right, and do it thoroughly. Although most bikes don't need this step done, when I'm building a bike I like to get at everything: whatever I can clean, check over, and rebuild, I will. That way, I know the bike is done right, I know it's going to work properly, and I've just added years to the lifespan of this humble machine. And it'll be a lot more fun to ride.
The headset of a bike is basically the front steering assembly. It includes the front tube, the front fork, the steering handle bars, and the odd bits such as ball-bearing cages, washers, and nuts. If the bike you want to rebuild has a rough time steering, or feels clunky while riding, you might well want to rebuild the headset.
The one I'm working on has a bit of rust on the headset top lock-nut and adjusting race, but, as you can see, it all comes apart with the proper tools.
Speaking of which, you'll need the following tools to do it right:
- Allen wrench
- Adjustable wrench (aka crescent wrench), large
- Vise-grip wrench (with rounded bite)
- Axle grease
- Wire brush or old toothbrush (for scrubbing filthy parts)
- Gloves (not required, they just keep your fingernails from getting too dirty)
First, unscrew the handlebar retaining bolt, a hexagonally-keyed bolt directly above where the handlebars slide into the frame. Theoretically, the handlebars should come loose when this bolt is loosened, but don't be surprised if it's stuck in the cylinder. Some PB Blaster (penetrating lubricant, found at auto-parts stores) soaked into the headset overnight should loosen all parts sufficiently, and allow you to pull the handlebars out of the front tube.
Next, use the crescent wrench to loosen the lock-nut. Then, careful so as not to lose the special washer (it has a tiny flange that lines up with the groove on the front fork threads) beneath the nut, remove the lockring (if stuck, use a rounded-bite pair of vise-grips, see photo). Once all this is removed, you can extract the front fork from the frame. Be careful not to drop or lose the two ball-bearing cages (two rings that hold ball bearings into place), which will likely be pretty dirty and in need of cleaning and re-greasing.
I'lll do the cleaning and greasing in a minute, for now it's time to clean that headset. Using some kind of degreaser or mild soap, or some other solvent-type fluid, wipe the grease and crud from the front fork, frame tube, and handlebars, scrub rusty bits with a wire-brush, and carefully scrub the threads at the top of the front fork. After cleaning this off, you'll want to inspect it for damage. The one in the photo has some thread damage, but it's not fatal. It can be cleaned up and put back to use, but I'll need to be careful not to worsen the damage when I'm putting it all back together. (In gallery photo, the damaged bit is at the top of the fork, a thin discolored vertical patch about a half-inch long. The long, straight bit is an intentional groove to hold the headset washer in place -- if you're unfamiliar with this, don't panic, it's supposed to be there)
Clean what you can on the fork and frame, wipe out the tube as much as you can to remove rust flakes or bits of dirt (I spray it with WD-40 and wipe through with a stretched shop-towel). Pay special attention to rusty patches, try to scrub them off or at least treat them with a rust-retardant.
Wipe all areas that the ball-bearings will touch. I usually use a shop-towel to get most of the gunk off, then I spray some solvent onto another cloth and scrub them with that, then once more with a dry, clean shop-towel.
Now for the ball bearings. You don't necessarily have to dis-assemble the bearing rings, but I usually do, for two reasons. First, if taken apart, I can see if any bearings are damaged and need to be replaced. Second, I know that the ball bearings will be properly greased if I take them apart and carefully clean them, and the cages.
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