Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome - Staying Cool with Radiant Barrier Paint
- by Kelly Smith (RSS feed) on Mar 7th 2008 4:00PM
- Filed under fix-it, preventative maintenance, seasonal, weekend projects, Tools, remodeling, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome
I recently wrote a piece on keeping some of the summer sun's heat at bay with English ivy on the side of my garage. I got a lot of feedback on that post; a lot of readers e-mailed me about ivy's insidious nature. I should have pointed out that I sealed the grout first. I'll still keep an eye on it.
This week's PRS article is also about keeping the house cooler -- with a product called radiant barrier paint.
I've heard that you can buy it pre-mixed, but they had it in powder form at the paint store I deal with. The salesman told me it was cheaper in powder form, and you know how I like to squeeze those pennies... I want to hear Abe squeal.
I got it at a good discount because I have an account with them. At the time, I was operating a small remodeling company, so I enjoyed the savings. But here's a tip: when you go to the paint store, open an account, and you'll probably save money. I have a DBA, but in my neck of the woods you don't have to have one to get a commercial account. You can be "Joe's Painting Company".
After the jump: how to mix and apply radiant barrier paint, as well as details on why it works.
How It Works
The radiant barrier powder I used is made up of microscopic aluminum chips and porcelain beads. And it's light. When you pick up the bucket, you would swear it's empty. The powder is mixed with latex paint: preferably white, I'm told. I'm not convinced that the color makes much difference in the attic, though.
The concept is that when the sun's radiant heat enters the house, the combination of the aluminum chips and porcelain beads reflects it, or a good deal of it, right back out.
Where can it be applied? Anywhere the sun impacts your home. The only place I have applied it to my house thus far is to the roof decking inside my attic. Has it done any good? Yep, my air conditioner got a well deserved break.
But imagine if I painted the exterior walls on the interior of the house! Also, if your house has siding (mine is brick), and you painted it, the sun wouldn't stand a chance. The experts say that a single application reflects up to forty percent of radiant heat.
Mixing the Powder and the Paint
The first thing to do is mix it with the paint. My bucket contained a gallon of powder. The recipe was one bucket of powder to five gallons of white latex paint. Now, mixing it is where you want to be careful. This powder concoction is very nasty to inhale.
Remember how light I told you it was? It is incredibly easy for it to go airborne. You must use a respirator for this step. You'll need another bucket, preferably a little bigger than five gallons because the way to mix the powder with the paint is a method called "boxing paint." I know, weird term.
Pour two and a half gallons of the paint into the spare bucket. Do this inside your garage, or some other place with no air current. Now (with your respirator on), ladle half of the powder into the paint. Use a paint stirrer to mix it slightly, not too much. Now, pour more paint from the original bucket into the mixture. It should be about two inches from the top.
The process of boxing paint is to mix it by pouring it back and forth from bucket to bucket. Do this a few times. Then pour one half way again, add the remaining powder, and continue to box the paint. Do it until you think, "Man, this is really stupid and my back hurts." That's a good indication that you're done.
Spraying the Paint
Fall, winter, or spring is the right time, because the attic won't be as blistering hot.
It's best to use an airless paint spray rig. The tip will need to be a bit bigger than usual, because of the particulate matter in the paint. In my attic, the roofing nails are sticking through, so rolling it wasn't an option. Of course, if your roofer cut corners and used staples, you might get away with rolling it.
If you spray, you'll want to wear a respirator, goggles, and a ball cap. My paint rig is the kind where the intake tube sits in the bottom of the five gallon bucket. Since there's always a bit that it can't get to, I painted the remainder on the inside of the garage (yeah, that "ivy wall").
In most cases, the whole job will take less than a day; I think I spent about five hours. Was it effective? Heck yeah! My electric bill didn't go down much, because that was when they started tacking on those crazy "fuel surcharges." But my KW usage went down. Give it a shot: you pay once, but save forever.







Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
3-07-2008 @ 5:38PM
Bill Volk said...
What a great idea! Thanks for the tip, Kelly.
Bill
Reply
3-08-2008 @ 11:11PM
Derek L said...
It doesn't matter that you sealed the mortar first, if the Ivy is sticking to wall that means it has found cracks in the surface. Cracks that over time it will enlarge. Not to mention the sealing the grout won't keep it from attacking the gutter and soffit area and heading onto the roof to potentially do further damage there.
There's a reason why you got so much feedback.
Reply
3-11-2008 @ 11:48PM
Ed Fritz said...
Radiant barrier can be a little tricky. Currently, there are many different types of radiant barrier paints and additives available. I would recommend using radiant barrier foil instead of the paint type products. Here is a report by RIMA (reflective Insulation Manufacturers Association) with test results of about 20 different paint products: http://www.rima.net/pdf_files/Evaluation%20of%20Coatings%20for%20Use%20as%20Interior%20Radiation%20Control%20Coatings.pdf Technically, the paint products are not true "radiant barriers" they are properly called "Interior Radiation Control Coating Systems" The bottom line is that they can vary greatly in their effectiveness depending on brand and how well they are applied. The foil products will reflect 97% of the radiant heat transfer. Here is a website on how to install radiant barrier yourself. Plus at about .11/square ft. it's actually cheaper than the paint. http://atticfoil.com/foilinstallpics.htm
Reply
4-22-2008 @ 3:59PM
KC said...
I agree with Ed that the RIMA report is a great reference. But a thing to keep in mind about foils is that they can interfere with cell phone and satellite dish reception. A friend of mine installed one of the foils in his attic and he couldn't talk on his cell phone in his house anymore. So he had to rip it out and use one of the better paints listed in the RIMA report.
4-30-2008 @ 2:07PM
Jerry said...
The airless sprayer you link to does not support the tip size required for at least one of the radiant barrier paints that meets ASTM standards. Heatbloc-75 requires a tip of .019" to .021", but only industrial sprayers will support tips that big. Think equipment rental for this project.
Reply
4-30-2008 @ 5:04PM
Kelly Smith said...
Hmm, Jerry, I didn't know about that. To be honest, I don't even remember what brand of paint powder I used, but I bought the third party tip right there in the paint store.
5-01-2008 @ 12:26AM
Jimmy said...
Some of the sprays that use aluminum work OK. The problem with the sprays that ceramic "beads" or powder is that after testing often over 90% break during the spray process. Unless you have a BIG spray tip, you end greatly reducing the effectiveness. I'd go with the foil. If cell phone reception is a problem go with a cell phone booster: http://wilsonelectronics.com///Products.php?Type=B
Even with the cost of the booster your energy savings will pay for it.
Reply
5-31-2008 @ 1:29PM
Carl Slater said...
Kelly Smith please get in touch with me. A friend of mine from China and I have been working to promote ivy and other vine plants for use as insulators for hot and cold heat transfer reduction and shielding from radiation. I have a paper I would like to share with you. We are working on an article for the America Ivy Society "Ivy Journal". Ivy is also very good at collecting fine dust particles. I you can share your email with me I will send you the paper. I am interested in contacting anyone who is interested in using ivy and vine plants for CO2 converters, dust collection and energy conservation. Send emails to my "public" address carlslater@bigplanet.com
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