Carpenter's Pick: Block Planes

You know that door that won't quite close? Or that drawer that fits a bit too snugly? You can rummage around for a chisel, a scraper, a jigsaw, or even a power planer to trim the edges of uneven and too-tight drawers and doors. Or you can turn to the one tool that will do the job the right way: a block plane. A block plane is a small hand plane whose blade is set at a lower angle than other woodworking planes. The lower angle makes the block plane useful for cutting the wood's end grain -- in other words, trimming at a right angle to the wood's grain. Larger planes with higher blade angles are designed to work in the direction of the grain and would tear the wood if used across it or against it.

And that trusty jigsaw or chisel? Even worse. Some other tools may seem like good substitutes in a pinch, but it's very easy to accidentally remove a little too much -- and once you do that, there's no going back. The block plane is nice and small so it can squeeze into tight corners where a larger tool can't reach. It also removes only a tiny fraction of an inch of material, so it's hard to overdo it on just a pass or two. Because of the low blade angle, the block plane allows you to work with the grain of the wood as well as the end grain. This versatility is unmatched by other planing tools for at-home jobs.

Here's a tutorial for all you block plane first-timers. Let's say you have a door that won't close properly.

1. First, shut the door and look to see where it's hitting the jamb. If it's not easy to see, pick up some chalk and run that along the edge of the jam (and know that you're going to get a little chalk on you before this process is done).

2. Close the door and open it again. You'll see marks on the door where it was hitting the jamb. Run the block plane down the affected area a couple times and try again. Don't be surprised if you discover there's more than one spot on the door that needs to be tweaked.

3. Keep repeating the process until you find that the door closes easily. You can plane spots on the top of the door, too. Just use a step ladder for a better view of your work.

Follow this same process for drawers too. It's easy to do and even quicker than using sanding paper -- and a lot safer and more accurate than using a belt sander.

There's a large variety of block planes on the market, and you do get what you pay for. You can get a new basic model for under $25, but a nicer Veritas or Lie-Nielsen version is well worth the $100 to $300 investment. Another place to pick up a block plane for a great price is a flea market or eBay -- expect to pay around $10 (plus shipping) for an antique plane that some argue is a higher quality tool (it pays to do your online research or ask a carpenter's opinion before placing any bids on eBay). Know that what you save in money you'll likely pay in elbow grease; you might have to clean off rust or sharpen a blade.

In fact, regardless of whether your block plane is new or used, a sharp blade is integral to the tool's performance. I recommend getting an oilstone or waterstone to sharpen and hone the blade periodically at the typical 25 degree bevel. You'll know when it needs to be sharpened when it produces no clean shavings -- only sawdust.