Blogger Anie Packman uses glossy white spray paint to transform a clear glass into an antique milk-glass replica. Photo: Marry You Me
Instructions for painting several common surfaces, including glass, metal, plastic, porcelain, ceramic, and wood.
Spray painting is one of the easiest ways to transform any object -- an accessory, a piece of furniture, even electronics -- in a matter of minutes. You already know the rules for
spray painting the right way (if you haven't seen our previous post, it's a must-read before attempting any of these projects.
Common mistakes like drips, poor adhesion, and bubbling can ruin your work). Now it's time to get started giving your furnishings a facelift.
HOW TO SPRAY PAINT GLASS
Think: Mirrors, tabletops, vases, windowpanes.
1. Roughen it up. Work surfaces over with a chemical etcher or
80-grit sandpaper.
2. Remove dirt and dust. Douse a paper towel with some quick-drying glass cleaner and wipe the glass. Allow the surface to dry.
3. Prime the surface. (Optional) Glass naturally expands and contracts with temperature fluctuations; when applied to glass, spray-paint can creep (move around and create unsightly seams) or crack if it's not prepared correctly.
Primer helps you end up with a smooth, unblemished finish.
4. Apply paint. Be sure you're 10 to 12 inches away from the surface. Air-dry according to manufacturer's recommendations. One more coat should be all you need at this point. You should be able to repaint within minutes, given proper conditions (check the label). Let dry. Repeat step four if necessary.
METAL
Think: Appliances, barbecue grills, bicycles, fences, file cabinets, fireplace screens, hardware, light fixtures, radiators, buckets and cans.
Blogger Jessica Woody upcycles cans into decorative vessels using spray paint and decoupage techniques. Photo: Eco-Friendly Freckles
1. Remove flecks of rust. Use
chemical rust remover, 120-grit sandpaper or a
wire brush. If you're dealing with oily residue (found on newer lawn furniture, say), rub it off a damp rag and mild dish detergent. Use denatured alcohol for stubborn residue. Let dry completely.
2. Clean and dull. Sand down any glossiness, paying close attention to any chips and dings. Remove dust with a dry
tack cloth.
3. Prime. It'll help seal and smooth uneven surfaces even further, hide any staining, help
paint adhere, and ensure you get the right color. Let dry according to the can's recommended drying time, usually one to two hours.
4. Start spraying. Hold the can 10 to 12 inches from the surface and spray repeatedly in one direction -- back and forth.
Tip: Shop around for a good-quality metallic spray finish. It'll cost a little more, but because it contains real metal particles -- not dyed-metal ones -- you'll achieve a smoother coat and a higher-gloss, pro-grade finish.
PLASTIC
Think: Acrylic, automotive parts, fiberglass, garbage cans, laminates, mini-blinds, outdoor furniture, shutters.
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1. Make sure it's spotless. Ammonia-based cleaner works well on older plastic surfaces. Newer surfaces tend to be coated with a special protective film; try paint thinner.
2. Rough up surfaces with fine-grit sandpaper. Remove dust and debris with a tack cloth.
3. Prime. (Optional.)
4. Paint.
PORCELAIN & CERAMIC
Think: Brick, bathtubs, flowerpots, lamp bases, servingware, sinks, tchotchkes, tile.
1. Scuff up glaze. Use 80-grit sandpaper. It can be hard to tell if you've removed all traces of slickness, so create "X" shapes on the surface. Start on a diagonal, then cross the just-sanded area again, in the opposite direction. Wipe clean with a tack cloth. (If the object is unglazed -- i.e. terracotta -- go straight to step two.)
2. Apply primer.
3. Start painting. Coat surfaces twice with
paint formulated for enamel surfaces.
WOOD
Think: Cork, finished and unfinished pieces, MDF, wicker, wood composite.
1. Remove hardware. If it's not possible, secure and cover anything you're not working on with plastic, newspaper and/or some good
painter's tape.
2. Sand and smooth. For smaller pieces, one sheet of medium-to-fine grain sandpaper should do the trick. Consider
liquid sandpaper for larger jobs. Repeat as necessary, as you want the smoothest, most scratch-free surface as possible, so paint adheres and the finish dries evenly.
3. Dust, brush or vacuum off residual sawdust. Resist the urge to wipe down the piece with a wet rag; you'll have to wait until it dries.
4. Spray on the primer.
5. Get painting!
For a visual guide, watch this video on spray painting wicker:
Reader comments (Page 1 of 1)
You never hold a can in your hand and sray it like your picture shows. Especially with manicured nails, that's crazy as anybody familiar wth spray painting knows...Change the graphic !!!
Replyhahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!! you sure are right. leave it to aol to totally screw things up
I also keep old gloves to wear when spray painting to avoid getting any on my hands. It is a good Idea to work in a clear area so you can easily move around the object you are painting, so you can avoid having to lift of move it by touching the areas you just painted.
Would you eat foodstuff being illegally hawked in the comment areas of web site? Really? If they cut corners in such an easy way, can you imagine what they are doing with the "edible" items they are attempting to sell to you. Please think twice.
ReplyLowes and Home Depot sell a thing that clamps over the can and you pull the trigger....no more tired, paint soaked fingers! It is just awesome!
Replyi work at THD...the thingie that attaches to the spray can is a piece of junk...save your $$$$$$
The Home Depot guy is wrong, they are great.
If the one from Home Depot is a piece of junk. Buy the one from Lowes, I did, it works great.
Most hot dogs are made of waste product (lips and azzholes) vendors that attempt to sell on comment sites only have half those ingredients, guess which?
ReplyWhat a totally useless article, anyone who has ever spray painted knows you never hold the can like the picture, nothing about how not to have drips, shaking the can etc. This is called ( nothing to write about but gotta write something ) .
Replyi have seen it all...rubber gloves to use a spray can...next...a full NBC suit...and haz-mat...standing by to save use from ourselves...jfc..................
Replyyou never want to use 80-grit on glass as it will leave deep scratches that are very difficult to remove
ReplyIf your painting the glass anyway, who cares if it ends up with really deep scratches. They are there for the paint to stick better moron.
Please keep your comments relevant to the subject being discussed. I am from Detroit, and appreciate the info, but this is not the proper avenue for your advertisement.
ReplyI would never use 80 grit on glass. I have used a gray color automotive primer with good results. I also think you need a clear laquer top coat...this only works if you want an opaque look...
Reply