Looking for a stud? Don't stress! Even if you don't own a handy stud finder, you can still locate these elusive fasteners with ease.
Before installing a stair rail bracket, you'll have to find a stud first. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services
When it comes to
hanging heavy items on a wall, you should aim to drive the screws into studs located in the wall's framing. These studs can hold more weight than plain drywall can, so this technique provides an important, safe and secure hold. There's one caveat: finding these elusive wall studs can be a frustrating challenge. The easiest way to locate them is to use an electronic or magnetic
stud finder. These tools will flash or beep whenever you get near a stud. Also,
wall anchors will allow you sometimes to bypass this hunting exercise all together.
If you don't own an anchor or stud finder (or the desire to ante up the cash for one), here's how to locate sly wall studs without spending a penny.
Look for clues to where hidden drywall fasteners are.
Search for slightly raised nailheads; studs usually lie directly behind these fasteners. Also, you can press on the drywall. If it gives, move a few inches away and press again. When you press and the wall doesn't give at all, you've probably located a stud. A third approach is to tap on the drywall and listen for changes in tone. A hollow sound means you're cold. A solid sound means you've most likely found a stud, or you're close to one.
Look for clues as to where a stud may be hidden, then drill a trial hole. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services
Drill a test hole.
To ensure that you have indeed found a wall stud, create a no-cost stud finder. Cut 20 inches of a wire hanger and bend it so that there are two 5-inch legs in a 90-degree configuration.
Use linesman pliers to cut a wire hanger. Then bend a 5-inch leg at each end. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services
Insert one end into the hole you've drilled. Grasp the other leg of the wire and turn, as if it were a doorknob. If you hit something solid, turn the finder in the other direction to see if you hit it again. If you do, it's probably a stud. Mark the spot on the coat hanger that's sticking out of the wall. Withdraw the hanger and you'll have an approximate measure of the distance between the stud and the hole.
If you hit a stud, withdraw the tool and gauge the distance of the stud from the hole. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services
If you turn the stud finder and don't hit a stud; move six inches to either side of your test hole. Drill another hole, and try again. This time you should hit a stud, unless the studs in your home are spaced 24 inches apart instead of the standard 16 inches apart. In this case, repeat the above directions.
Mark the stud locations.
Once you locate one stud, use it to find the location of the other studs along the length of the wall. In most cases you'll find the other studs spaced in increments of
16 inches away from the center of the first stud. Finish up by patching the hole(s) and touching up with paint so that it matches the rest of the wall.
When using this method, you may end up with several holes in the wall that will need to be patched. While these are fairly easy to conceal, you can also opt to drill your trial holes in an inconspicuous spot, such as near the base molding.
SEE ALSO:
Best Wall Anchors and How to Install Them
Stud Finder: Must-Have Tools (This Old House)
And The Winner Is?
Make A Rustic Sawhorse Table For Under $40
Reader comments (Page 1 of 2)
Sometimes it's important not only to find the stud, but to also make sure that the screw enters the stud near its center and not near its edge, where the wood can split and the screw holding power into the stud could be weak. An example would be the installation of handicap grab bars. Under these circumstances I don't even trust an electronic stud finder. After locating the stud at the point where I want to attach a screw, I tap a finishing nail through the drywall at 1/4 inch increments horizontally. After passing through the drywall, the nail will push in further very easily unless it hits the stud. If it hits the stud, pull the nail out and move horizontall 1/4 inch and tap the nail in again. After four or five nailings you will know precisely where the center of the stud is located. Of course this will leave a few tiny holes in the drywall. The holes will likely be covered by whatever you are attaching, and if they are not they can easily be spackled. If you want even tinier holes, use a sewing needle or pin mounted in a pair of visegrips -- as a giant pushpin instead of a finishing nail.
ReplyI agree and as a former carpenter I did not waste money for a stud finder to do something I could easily do myself.Stud finders work by magnetically finding the drywall nails.I first would tap with my knuckle along the wall (at that place) and listen for a hollow sound followed by a solid one then hollow again.This would be the stud, hold a strong light to the side here and you should a place where the drywall was nailed, looking down there should be a slight indentation where the base trim was nailed, if there is not a drywall nail here your stud finder will not show any stud.A test hole will confirm and other studs "should" be 16" from here.If and when I move and sell, I am going to take everything down and fix the holes and repaint anyway, it is the cheapest way to get the best selling price. John
Your suggestion seems so simple that I thought it was common knowledge, not so. It is the only way I know to insure a center hit on the stud......
I 've been using that method for years ! This way you can find the center of the stud.
Signed " The 73 year old do it your selfer"
You can find a stud the old way by tapping on the wall with a hammer ( solid sound stud ) or ( hollow sound no stud ) and no electronic junk needed .
ReplyHow stupid punching or drilling holes in the wall!! Buying a stud finder is cheaper than repairing the drywall and repainting it especially if you can not match the paint!! Your cheapness and stupidity ends up costing you much more,,,duh!
ReplyCliff, I thought the same thing. Who wants a wall full of drill holes, that is the most misleading advice I have ever heard of.
It all works if you have dry wall and the builder followed codes. And if you lucky enough to have old plaster walls good luck.
ReplyWhat asinine advice. Poke some holes in your wall or look for signs that you had a poor contractor who can't install drywall properly. Break down and buy the stud finder, already. Your walls will thank you, and so will whatever you're trying to hang.
ReplyI have two electronic stud finders, including a very expensive one that also tries to locate plumbing and wiring. The stud finders give you an idea where the edges of the studs are located. But the results are often a little inaccurate, which you will detect when you use a small nail or pin to verify the location of the stud edges. Using the nail test method isn't about saving money, it's about making certain that you've got it right. It's appropriate in critical mountings where failure could result in personal injury or costly damage.
ReplyWhat I do is rip out a section of the dry wall and than mesure back to the stud. In this fashion, I can charge my customer for dry wall work as well.
turn the lights down, take a flashlight and lay it on the wall so the light shines up, the dimples from the existing nails and spackle will stand out as shadows.
Replyi find that earth magnets about the size of a quarter, work better than anything ive tried...5 of them in an old 35mm film can will pull out of your hand to locate a skrew or nail head..have used it on double layer drywall as well as 3/4 " plaster...for pictures and such this wil be close enough..for grab bars...always use a nail to find the center of the stud so grandma dont pull it out of the wall and fall
ReplyI used lightweight patch to do my test holes & holes from old pictures I removed when I moved from the house I rented & i got my deposit back. The walls were white & you gould not see them at all.
ReplyI never heard of anything so stupid as drilling holes in the wall to find a stud. Not only will you have to fix the holes, you will have to repaint also and if you dont have any paint to match you will end up painting the whole room. That 16 inch on center works pretty well on new work but what about old plaster walls. I say buy the stud finder. They are inexpensive and work pretty well and to always check where your baseboard are nailed . They are usually attached to a stud also.
Replyyea boy, take the easy way out, lol. Try that with plaster walls.
ReplyI have never used a stud finder, I just start at the corner of the wall and measure 16" from there and then knock and listen for the solid or hollow sound. You will always be within an inch or less that way. Stud finders are okay if you that is your deal, some like them and some don't, I just have never had the need to use one.
ReplyHere is another trick I used to use when I was a remodeling contractor prior to retirement. Unscrew the cover off an outlet or switch plate and you will find that the electrical box is almost always nailed to a stud. Once you find this just measure from the center of the stud at 16 or 24 inch increments to the area you need to install the anchor. Usually this is pretty acurate.
ReplyThis is good advice for all you DIY s out there. I've done this for years, I'm 69 yrs old. Just how hard is it to cover or fill small nail or pin holes? Looks like there skeptics out there about anything
Replythey see or read. Don't be so critical of what others fine good for them. Good day.!!!
another friggin useless article from aol
Reply