DIY Life

Kitchen Flooring Buying Guide: Linoleum

Allegra Muzzillo — 2011-09-14T16:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Products & Materials

Thinking of installing new kitchen flooring in time for spring? In this five-part kitchen flooring series, we'll lay the groundwork -- and you make the decision. In this second installment we take a closer look the DIYer's kitchen flooring material of choice: Linoleum.

Linoleum flooring. Photo: tuchodi, Flickr

How It's Made: Linoleum is a mixture of cork dust, ground limestone, linseed oil, mineral pigments, recycled wood flour and tree resins -- all pressed together and mounted onto jute backing. Interestingly, its name is a combination of the Latin words for flax (linum) and oil (oleum).

How It's Sold: Linoleum kitchen flooring is available as tile, sheeting and even cutout pieces that look similar to area rugs. It sticks to the floor with adhesive. Tile is sold in all sizes and sheeting is typically sold in 6-foot x 7-inch widths and multiple thicknesses.

Pros: Linoleum is considered a green material because no hazardous chemicals are associated with its creation or disposal. It's also naturally antibacterial and biodegradable, easy to clean, comfortable to stand on and scratch- and gouge-resistant -- excellent for high-traffic areas just like the kitchen. Linoleum can last 40 years or more.

Cons: Although it's rugged and easy to work with, linoleum just doesn't have the same appeal to some consumers as higher end materials.

DIY Degree of Difficulty: Very Easy (Tiles) to Tough (Sheeting)
While any eager 8-year-old assistant could help you lay a linoleum tile kitchen floor (just spread out latex adhesive, place tiles on it, then set with a roller), laying sheet linoleum is another story. The adhesive makes linoleum sheeting shrink in length and expand in width, which adds up to a potential nightmare situation. So it's wise to leave the sheeting installation to the pros, and take on tile installation yourself.

Care & Maintenance: Dust mop and/or sweep regularly with a soft-bristled broom. Vacuum with the soft floor attachment (careful: the ends of certain attachments can scratch delicate finishes). Remove stubborn scuff marks with a clean rag dipped in undiluted linoleum cleaner. Wash by hand with a natural vinegar-based solution or use a damp mop as needed. Recoat floors once per year with acrylic sealer to maintain performance and luster.

Cost (per square foot)
Linoleum tile is typically priced from $2 to $7. Sheet linoleum costs $3 to $4 installed.

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Kitchen Flooring Buying Guide: Ceramic Tile

Allegra Muzzillo — 2011-02-24T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Products & Materials

Thinking of installing new kitchen flooring in time for spring? In this five-part kitchen flooring series, we'll lay the groundwork -- and you make the decision.

Ceramic floor tile. Photo: Getty Images

Is ceramic tile the best kitchen flooring option for your home? Photo: Getty Images

The tracking of winter's elements (snow, slush, mud...ack!) can take quite a toll on your poor kitchen floor. So if installing new kitchen flooring is on your DIY agenda this year, you're in luck.

We've taken the five most popular kitchen flooring options -- ceramic tile, hardwood, laminate, linoleum and vinyl -- and broken them down according to their pros, cons, cost, durability, and DIY-ability (of course).

In this first installment, we take a closer look at ceramic tile for the kitchen. See if it's right for you!

CERAMIC FLOOR TILE

How It's Made: Constructed of natural clay, ceramic floor tiles are glazed on one side and then fired under extreme heat for resilience.

How It's Sold: They're available in either a glossy or matte finish. Ceramic floor tiles are typically sold in ½-inch to ¾-inch thick four-by-four squares, but can be much larger (even up to 24 by 24 inches).

Pros: Extremely durable and dent-, water- and stain-resistant.

Cons: Although durable, ceramic tile is susceptible to cracking, so be sure your subfloor is level and can accommodatesthe thickness of the tile you choose. Ceramic tile can be slippery when wet (consider slip-resistant textured tiles), hard on legs and cold underfoot.

DIY Degree of Difficulty: Challenging but Doable
Although many homeowners successfully install ceramic kitchen flooring on their own, this job isn't for everyone. Because tiles usually require cutting to fit, precise measurements, mortar mixing and grout application, the entire process can be very time-consuming. Detailed designs require advanced DIY skills.

Cleaning ceramic tile is as simple as using a damp sponge. Photo: Getty Images

Care & Maintenance: Dust-mop and/or sweep with a soft-bristled broom. Vacuum with the soft floor attachment (but be careful; the ends of certain attachments can scratch delicate finishes). Wash tiles by hand with a natural vinegar-based solution or use a damp mop as needed.

Cost (per square foot): From $4 to $8. Contractors generally charge about $5 (installation only, excluding tile and grout).

Remember to...
o. Only choose ceramic kitchen tile with a number three (for medium to heavy traffic) to five (for extra-heavy traffic) rating as recommended by the Porcelain Enamel Institute: It's a cumulative measure of the tile's hardness, how much water it will absorb, and how well it will wear.
o. Buy extra tile so you'll always have spares on hand to replace cracked pieces.

Tip: Ripping up your old flooring? Expect to pay $2 per square foot for its removal.

Check back next week when we explore another great kitchen flooring option: Linoleum.

If you do choose ceramic tiles for your kitchen, watch this video to learn perfect grouting techniques:

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Displaying Christmas Cards - 5 Unique Approaches

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-12-22T13:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Holidays, Crafts & Celebrations

You get so much cheer from the holiday cards you receive -- but very little joy out of the clutter they tend to create. We asked five prominent DIYers to share their most creative ideas for decking the halls with paper greetings.

How are you displaying your Christmas cards this year? Photo: Tim Morgan, Flickr

It's that time of year -- or that week to be particular. The week when all of your friends' and family members' Christmas cards start rolling in en masse. Holiday cards are a joy to receive to be sure. But the tumbling avalanche that occurs when you add another card to the bunch? Not so much.

This year, we wanted a creative way to display our cards -- not the old standby solutions, like displaying them on the mantel or hanging them from a ribbon or string. So we asked a bunch of clever crafters to reveal their favorite, most unexpected ways to display cherished greetings. Here, several great ideas that are far from ho-ho-ho-hum.

SPELL OUT CHRISTMAS CHEER
Brooklyn-based lifestyle blogger, Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien, suggests going for maximum impact with minimal effort: Tear off strips of washi-paper tape and stick the loveliest cards onto a bare wall to spell out words that invoke the spirit of the holiday: Nöel, Joy, Peace -- even favorite song titles like Silent Night. The result? Walls that sing!

DIY blogger Kate crafted this ribbon tree to display her holiday cards. Photo: Centsational Girl

GROW A RIBBON TREE
DIY blogger Kate, aka Centsational Girl, cooks up a new DIY plan for showing off her holiday cards every year. This year she's "grown" a ribbon tree.

To do the same, you'll need the following:
o. 2x3-foot corkboard
o. Large piece of fabric (any color) for the background. It needs to be large enough to wrap around and cover the board entirely
o. Small scrap of fabric (different color than background) to cut into a tree base
o. 3 yards of ½-inch thick velvet ribbon (any color) for "branches"
o. 3.5 yards of 2-inch thick ribbon (a pattern is especially nice) for a border
o. Staple gun
o. Fabric glue
o. Ball peen hammer
o. Three packages of decorative nails

Step 1: Stretch the fabric as taut and evenly as possible over the surface, flip the board over, and fold fabric under (to create a nice hem). Then staple it in place on one side at a time. Tip: It's best to staple one side, stretch the fabric tightly again, staple the side directly opposite, then re-stretch and repeat on another side until all sides are complete.

Step 2: Cut the ½-inch thick ribbon (for branches) into:
o. Two 6-inch segments
o. Two 8-inch segments
o. Two 10-inch segments
o. Two 12-inch segments
o. Two 14-inch segments

Step 3: Cut the 2-inch thick ribbon (for border) into:
o. Two 2-foot segments
o. Two 3-foot segments

Step 4: Secure the ribbon "branches" of your tree by pounding decorative nails into the tips. Start with the topmost branches, using the shortest ribbon segments; the branches should increase in length as they travel down the tree trunk.

Step 5: Add the base of the tree; fold the edges under and use nails around its perimeter.

Step 6: Glue the 2-inch ribbon around the corkboard frame.

"Hang" your cards on the tree's branches using thumbtacks.

Get inspired by Pottery Barn's Wakefield Chandelier. Photo: Pottery Barn

CREATE A CLIP-UP CARD CHANDELIER
Prop stylist Kirsten Fields recently saw a tiered chandelier -- complete with clips to showcase anything from photos to finger-paintings -- in Pottery Barn and realized it's quite easy to make your own (minus the lights).

You'll need:
o. Three wooden embroidery hoops (one large, medium and small)
o. Scissors
o. Monofilament (a type of fishing line that's also used for crafts)
o. Package of tiny wooden clothespins
o. One yard of 1 ½ -inch thick festive ribbon

Step 1: Cut twelve 6-inch lengths of monofilament. You'll use these to tie the hoops together.

Step 2: Tie and knot the medium-sized embroidery hoop to the smaller hoop in four evenly-spaced spots. (Although hoops will hang in descending-height order, it's easiest to construct this way.)

Step 3: Pick up the larger hoop and repeat step 2 with the medium sized-hoop.

Step 4: Turn the piece upside-down, so that the smallest hoop is closest to the floor. Then tie the last four pieces of monofilament to the largest hoop and knot them to form a hook.

Step 5: Snip off excess monofilament, attach clothespins to each tier and add cards.

Step 6: Cut desired length of ribbon, tie it to the monofilament hook and hang!

BUILD A HOUSE OF HOLIDAY CARDS
NYC-based prop stylist Meghan Guthrie of Etsy shop Marshmallow Guild uses greetings from Christmases past to build a holiday card house.

Step 1: Start by setting aside two of the prettiest cards for the walls.

Step 2: Grab a utility knife and carve out several windows and one (semi-attached) door.

Step 3: Construct a simple box by opening up the two cards and taping -- or sewing both together with red or green embroidery thread via evenly-spaced punched holes -- along the inner sides.

Step 4: Cut pieces of card "shingles" for the roof, and glue the shingles onto each other in an overlapping pattern. Then stick the finished roof onto the card house.

For added visual interest, use pinking shears to snip cute rutted edges. Guthrie likes to mount the completed home on a piece of plain cardboard and surround it with peat moss and tiny plastic animals.

Bonus idea: Create a landscape around the house by using extra holiday cards to make tree foliage! Cut two or three other cards in half. Recycle the written sides. Roll the picture-portions into loose or tight cones to make tree foliage. Secure inner edges with transparent tape. Cut a recycled-cardboard toilet-paper roll into thirds (it doesn't matter whether it's even; you want trees of different heights and widths). Glue the card foliage to the cardboard trunks. Settle trees into the peat moss landscape for a complete holiday cards homestead!

Use old Christmas cards to make glittery tree ornaments. Photo: Erinn Valencich

CRAFT GLITTERING ORNAMENTS
Here's a great idea for upcycling cards from Christmases past into festive holiday decor. Erinn Valencich, interior designer and host of HGTV's 25 Great Holiday Ideas, cuts up her cards and fashions them into shimmery 6-inch tree ornaments.

Before you follow her lead, it's important to decide how many ornaments you'd like to make: You'll need three greeting cards to make each one. Tip: Make a 2.5-inch cardboard template before you begin and use throughout the process for consistency.

Step 1: Cut out 15 colorful 2.5-inch circles from the illustrated portions of 3 different holiday cards.

Step 2: Choose 3 dissimilar circles and fold each one in half -- just to make a crease.

Step 3: Glue two circles together on one side (illustrated side out) and wait a bit so the bond has a chance to set.

Step 4: Carefully smear glue all over the inner sides of the attached circles, and stick them onto to the third circle, which is lying flat. The circles should now form a three-dimensional triangular shape.

Step 5: Press the 3 circles firmly together and let sit.

Step 6: Repeat steps 2 through 5, a total of four more times.

Step 7: After they're dry, dip outer edges in glue and roll in a bowl of sparkly glitter.

Step 8: Punch a hole in the top and thread with yarn. Knot the top and add a wire hook, or display the orbs among springs of winterberry and pine branches for a festive Christmastime centerpiece to enjoy year after year.

Tell us how you display your holiday cards in the house!

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Magic Tricks of Professional Organizers

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-12-20T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Storage & Organization, Know-How

We asked a pair of professional organizers to reach into their hats and pull out some of their most miraculous organizing tactics. They were happy to oblige.

Ever wish you could just Abracadabra! that clutter away? Or Open Sesame! to reveal a well-ordered bathroom vanity? We turned to two seasoned professional organizers -- women whose job it is to work magic on their clients' homes (and, more importantly, their organizing habits) -- and asked them to share some of their best tricks when it comes to the home's most notorious clutter zones: tricks that go beyond plastic bins and drawer dividers.

Here are their insider tips for making clutter vanish for good.

Photos: Corbis; MCT

TROUBLE ZONE #1: MEDICINE CABINET
Don't let contents of your medicine cabinet simply float; contain them. Professional organizer Jill Revitsky of Discover Organizing, Inc. in Pittsburgh places interlocking plastic bins (meant for drawers) lengthwise on the bottom shelves of her clients' medicine cabinets to hold tiny tubes of makeup, sample packets and prescription medications -- all the things that easily fall over. Heather Lambie, founder of Your Home Editor, a Tampa Bay, Florida-based professional organizing company, tells clients to line one shelf with vintage juice glasses (they don't have to match; in fact, it looks cooler if they don't) to wrangle cosmetics; one cup for lip gloss, another for eye shadow. "Beyond being pretty, it creates boundaries. When the cup is full, you know you need to throw something away. When everything gets thrown in a drawer, you lose sight of what you have," says Lambie.

TROUBLE ZONE #2: THE GARDEN SHED
"If you're like most people, once planting season is over, the door gets shut and God help the next person who opens it," says Revitsky. She suggests lining one wall with floor-to-ceiling utility shelves and organizing shelves by task - lawn and garden, fuel, cleaning, lighting, and so on. Install a sheet of floor-to-ceiling pegboard (wood or metal) and hang tools from hooks. Once you've found the perfect layout for all your tools, Revitsky recommends going a step further and outlining them with black marker so you'll know exactly where to hang them back up. Lambie creates DIY storage pockets for shears, garden gloves, pruners and the like by cutting a shop apron in half and suspending the bottom portion from pegboard hooks.

Photo: litlnemo, Flickr

TROUBLE ZONE #3: UNDER THE KITCHEN SINK
Start by tossing old products. (Resist the urge to combine like products if there's only a drop left in one bottle -- a generic brand of all-purpose cleaner with a brand-name one, for instance.) Group similar products together and place those used most frequently within immediate reach. Revitsky regularly recommends using an expandable under-sink shelf organizer, which adds vertical storage, and adjusts to fit around pipes garbage disposals. She tosses new sponges, microfiber cloths and other odds and ends into a lidded plastic shoebox and slides it underneath the shelf. And she stuck a strong adhesive hook to the inside of her cabinet door for drying wet rags. Lambie goes a step further and uses lidded glass jars to house kitchen cleaner samples, recycled plastic grocery bags, steel wool pads and dishwashing pellets so everything's easier to look at and she knows exactly what she has (and what she needs).

Photo: Getty Images

TROUBLE ZONE #4: HOME OFFICE
Where there's paper, there's clutter. Even in our digital age, it's hard to avoid chaos in a room that must find a way to contain mail, periodicals, coupons, family schedules...the list goes on and on. But there are secret ways to make sure this space really performs.

o. Mail (unopened or otherwise): Professional organizer, Jill Revitsky, of Discover Organizing, Inc. in Pittsburgh, has devised an ingenious plan that she wishes she could patent: Clear out your current dumping ground and replace it with a fragile object -- a ceramic vase or family heirloom, for instance. Designate a new, improved in-box to a high-traffic area like the kitchen. "In about 3 weeks, replace the cherished piece; by then you're avoiding the old haunt like the plague, so you don't have to worry about falling back into your old routine," says Revitsky. A few helpful hints to help deal with this widespread scourge?
1. Chill out, it's the holidays.
2. Try to always put aside at least 15 minutes for opening the mail.
3. Do so over a garbage can or recycling bin, says Heather Lambie, founder of Your Home Editor, a Tampa Bay, Florida-based professional organizing company. "And before you save anything - and I mean anything - ask yourself whether you can get that information anywhere else. Thanks to Google, the answer is almost always yes," she adds.

o. Catalogs, magazines and newspapers: Lambie suggests repurposing items in the home office -- ones that don't normally see a lot of airtime in other rooms. Say, a wine rack (or two) from the kitchen to corral recent issues you've yet to read. (This forces you to immediately recycle or donate the others). Rolled-up monthlies look more interesting this way, and valued kitchen space is freed up.

o. Coupons, bills, gift certificates, receipts, schedules: Invest in an inexpensive tabbed all-in-one folder, label the sections, and stow it in a desk drawer. Throw in all the loose papers so easily lost track of. Grab a separate folder for pages torn from magazines you love -- so you don't have to save the whole issue -- and organize sections by subject (food, tools, projects).

o. Photographs: Yep, those pre-digital, print photos. You're not getting any points for storing them in an "acid-free" Lactaid milk crate. If you're like this writer -- too lazy to organize photos and get them into an album -- try Lambie's trick: She bought a revolving 2-foot postcard rack at a flea market (the kind used in store displays), sat it on her desk, and fills it willy-nilly with printed photos. "Only our grandmothers had time to put photos in albums. Guests and family members love discovering new ones, and it never matters where they're put back. Plus, I think it's nice that the arrangement is ever-changing," she says.

Photo: AFP/Getty Images

TROUBLE ZONE #5: KIDS' ROOM
The key here is to get Little Billy or Angie to put their things away. As parents know, the only way this will happen is if parents make it easy for them. "Set up a child's room similar to a preschool -- with spaces dedicated to learning, being creative, sleeping and eating. This helps him figure out where things belong when he's completed a task," says Revitsky.

o. Clothing: Forget hangers when it comes to kids' clothes. Revitsky advises parents to stagger multiple rows of sturdy (child-height) hooks in kids' closets. "Everyday kids' costumes are in now. They always end up heaped on closet floors," she says. (Lest we forget hoodies, backpacks, belts and purses?)

o. Toys, Games: Unsure whether to toss or keep that teddy? Lambie has a good system for getting rid of the Raggedy Andys to make room for the new gadgets: She tells clients to put toys into "rotation." Toss the item into a labeled, dated transparent bin (well within the child's sight) for around 3 weeks or a time you're most comfortable with. "For kids aged 3 to 7 years, it may seem like an eternity. If the child doesn't ask for it, he's not missing it and it's OK to donate," says Lambie. Introduce a video game storage system via a hanging jewelry organizer. Instruct kids to sink in their ($25 to replace!) Nintendo DSi and VTech handheld game cartridges whenever they're not playing them.

Have you devised a foolproof trick that keeps you and your family organized all season long? What about an ingenious system or product you just can't live without? We want to know. Share here!

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Caring for Live Christmas Trees

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-12-06T14:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Holidays, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

You just brought home your freshly cut tree. Now what? Here's your guide to keeping live Christmas trees looking fair and lovely all season long.

Getting your live Christmas tree home is just the beginning. Photo: Getty Images

'Tis the season -- Christmas tree season! Time to pick out a new Douglas fir or Balsam tree and bring it home to be trimmed and admired. (If you haven't picked out your Christmas tree yet, check out Holidash's Christmas Tree Buying Guide.)

Unless it's your first time at the lot, you know that getting your live Christmas tree home is just the beginning. Keeping it green and gorgeous until the 25th and beyond is the real challenge, even for seasoned experts. We've put together a primer of a few tried-and-tested yuletide tips on everything from how to water a live tree to what not to put into the stand.

SETTING UP THE CHRISTMAS TREE STAND
In order to help your new Christmas tree keep its needles intact, you'll want to make sure the tree stays hydrated. A reservoir-type stand is best for feeding your new Christmas tree adequate amounts of water and helping it retain its needles longest. Buy one that's able to hold at least one gallon of water, with adjustable metal anchors designed to steady the tree. A quality stand's label dictates the height of the tree it will accommodate; follow its guidelines to a tee, lest your tree topple.

Rule of thumb: Measure the diameter of the tree's trunk; your stand should hold one quart of water per measured inch.

Don't forget to prune your Christmas tree before you decorate it. Photo: aus_chick, Flickr

PRUNING A CHRISTMAS TREE
A real Christmas tree isn't as symmetrical and trim-ready as an artificial out-of-the-box version, so you'll probably want to prune the branches with garden pruners before decorating yours. Here are a few rules to heed:
-- Never carve the tree's trunk in order to fit it into a stand; you'll only hamper its ability to absorb water.
-- Do not drill a hole into the trunk; it will not improve water absorption.
-- Lop off the lower whorl of the tree's branches only if they prevent the trunk from reaching water in the stand; shear limbs flush with the trunk.

WATERING A CHRISTMAS TREE
A live Christmas tree requires watering -- just like any other plant or tree in your home -- to stay green and healthy. Here's how to give your tree the perfect amount of hydration.

-- Frequently check water levels in the stand and judiciously fill the reservoir so water always covers the exposed end of the trunk. Certain trees -- especially within the first day and week of being cut -- will gulp a gallon of water per day.
-- Always use plain tap water in the stand. Additives (aspirin tablets, sugar) and DIY recipes (bleach with corn starch) are actually more likely to impede water absorption and probably also cause needles to drop faster. (Yes, we're actually advising against DIY hacks, believe it or not!)
-- Use either hot or cold water in the stand; it makes no difference. Your tree drinks water at the same rate at either temperature.

MAXIMIZING YOUR TREE'S LONGEVITY
A cut Christmas tree won't last forever, of course, but you can keep it looking merry and bright for the Christmas season with the care techniques above -- plus a few other tricks.

-- Display your tree out of direct sunlight and at least three feet away from heat sources (fireplaces, heat registers). it slows the drying process and is good fire-safety practice.
-- Keep the Christmas tree in a room that's slightly cooler than those in the rest of your home. It will consume less water and stay fresher longer.
-- Use LED and miniature holiday lights; they emit less heat than regular-sized lights and will help a tree preserve needles.

Christmas lights and dried out trees are a genuine fire safety concern. Photo: Getty Images

CHRISTMAS TREE SAFETY
It's a bummer to think about your new Christmas tree being anything but a festive focal point in your home. But the truth is, live Christmas tree can be a fire hazard. In fact, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) reports that about 260 structure fires are caused by Christmas trees each year. Here's how to keep your home safe this season.

-- Ensure your tree isn't blocking any entrances or exits. Never set it up in a doorway or stairwell.
-- Never burn your Christmas tree, either in a fireplace or wood stove. Needles burn quickly, often out of control, and sap can explode, sending sparks flying. In addition, pine and fir trees cause creosote (a flammable tar) to collect on chimney walls, which can ignite and cause a chimney fire.
-- Only use extension cords, electrical decorations and light strings that carry the label of a reputable, independent testing laboratory. It means each has been rigorously tested and meets stringent safety standards. If the decoration doesn't carry the label, it's not safe enough to use in your home. Period.
-- Check lights and decorations for frayed and bare wires, cracked sockets and broken bulbs. Toss immediately and replace if anything is awry. Otherwise they're a fire and shock risk.
-- Don't over-light your tree or overload outlets.

Rule of thumb: Always keep it to three strings of lights (regular or mini) or a maximum of 50 screw-in type bulbs per single extension cord, and just one extension cord per outlet. Turn off lights before leaving home and when going to bed. It saves energy, helps the tree last longer and reduces risk of fire.

HOW (AND WHEN) TO TOSS THAT TREE
Under the best circumstances, your fresh-cut tree would probably last about five weeks tops. After that, it just becomes a bigger and bigger fire hazard as the New Year edges on.

-- Tossing your tree within one month of getting it is a good rule of thumb.
-- After removing all lights and decorations, drag your tree out to the curb with the rest of your household trash. It will eventually end up in a landfill this way, and it's usually a free service for a couple of weeks after the Christmas holiday.
-- Don't bag your tree; leave it for the trash collectors as is.
-- Consider recycling your tree. Your community may offer a recycling program in which cut, cleaned-off trees are chipped and used for mulch in public areas, or offered up for free to lucky residents come spring. Recycling programs in some towns offer free curbside pick-up. Others organize drop-off sites throughout the month of January.

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Remove Soap Scum from Tile - The Daily Fix

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-11-24T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

You don't have to live with that dull film on the surface of your shower walls. Here's how to remove soap scum from tile and restore your bathroom's gleam.

Remove soap scum from tile. Photo: Corbis

Contrary to what its namesake suggests, soap scum isn't just composed of dried-on, dirty suds. Though dirt is definitely one of its components, soap scum is really more of a grotesque amalgamation of mineral deposits, shed dead-skin cells, body oils and bacteria.

Anything containing just two of these ingredients alone would be reason enough why it would be difficult removing it from any surface, let alone tile.

Here's how to handily remove soap scum from, and prevent it from forming on, the most common type of surfaces it forms on in your home.

For Starters:
Turn on the bathroom exhaust fan and/or open the door before you begin. Rubber gloves are also a good idea.

Getty Images

1. Fill a bucket or wash basin with warm water and place it in the tub or sink so errant drips flow right down the drain. If you're working on the shower stall, it's best to begin just after taking a shower, as residue will come off easier.

2. Apply a few drops of grease-cutting dish soap to a scrubbing sponge, such as Mr. Clean's Magic Eraser Bath Scrubber, which comes infused with surfactant. It apparently removes up to three times more gunk than scrubbing alone with an all-purpose cleaner.

3. Wet the sponge and scrub away! Scour small sections in tight, circular motions. Repeat as necessary.

4. Rinse tile with water. Then adjust the showerhead (or detach your handheld model) to get hard-to-reach areas. Wipe down walls with squeegee (optional).

If Stubborn Scum Won't Budge:
Give finished ceramic tiles the once-over with a tile scraper (really no more than a wide-edged razor blade with a handy grip). Be gentle, and double back with the scrubbing sponge to banish remaining deposits.

If you have marble, Travertine, slate or granite tile:
Since natural stone tile is softer and more porous than finished ceramic tile, you'll need to use a gentle, non-acidic cleaner to tackle soap scum. Abrasive scouring pads will damage these surfaces, too. Use a regular, soft-sided kitchen sponge to remove soap-scum from delicate, natural-stone tile.

To Prevent Future Build-Up...

o. Nix the bar soap in the shower. Switch to liquid soap-it leaves less residue.
o. Invest in a squeegee. Wipe down tiles after every shower to remove errant soap splatter before it has a chance to dry.
o. Coat tile with lemon oil. Dab a small amount onto a dry, soft cloth and work your way over tiles. Soapy water will bead up, and then roll right off.
o. Get a cool tool that works while you're away. A fully automated shower cleaner that even targets "problem" areas. One question: Where has it been all our lives?

We've heard that a good wash-down with regular shampoo and an old mesh shower puff works, too. Makes sense to us because of the degreasing agents in it. Have you tried it?

What other formulas have you used to remove soap scum from your tile surfaces?

SEE ALSO:
Clean a Bathroom in 15 Minutes: A Minute-by-Minute Guide (ShelterPop)
10 Tips to Make Your Stuff Last Longer (WalletPop)
5 Things I Learned from Caulking my Bathtub (CasaSugar)

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Household Hauntings: Be Your Own Ghost Hunter

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-10-28T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Holidays, Crafts & Celebrations

Want to be a ghost hunter this Halloween? Let Amy Bruni from the SyFy series Ghost Hunters show you how to detect paranormal activity in your home -- or whether those spooky chills and poltergeist-like malfunctions can be addressed through simple household maintenance.

Ghost hunters search for paranormal activity in homes like this one. What's haunting your home? Photo: MCT

Ghost hunting is hardly a newfangled pursuit. The macabre hobby has been around since the late-seventeenth century when sightings started popping up all over the British Isles. And it's been popularized here in the U.S. by the hit SyFy television show Ghost Hunters.

Back in the 17th century, the application of leeches was one "cure" for seeing apparitions. Sleuths wrote tons on exploits and revelations. A hundred years later, a center for paranormal studies was formed, and still exists to this day, laying the groundwork for a seemingly everlasting preoccupation with the occult.

Paranormal investigator Amy Bruni of the popular SyFy series Ghost Hunters. Photo: Getty Images

Modern-day ghost hunters have come a long way since leeches, and they now employ hoards of cool ghost-hunting tools to help decipher what the other side is trying to tell us -- and whether it's actually speaking at all. We spoke with paranormal investigator, Amy Bruni from SyFy's Ghost Hunters to help us determine whether that static in the attic requires the eagle eyes of a ghost hunting pro...or a local electrician. "In almost every case there's a logical explanation for what's happening in your home," says Bruni. Makes sense since only 20 percent of the Ghost Hunters' cases can't be attributed to real causes.

Here's how to be a real ghost hunter -- and how to self-diagnose a bunch of household headaches that are likely leaving you scratching your head while they go bump in the night.

UNEXPLAINED PHENOMENON #1: Frequent and extreme temperature fluctuations concentrated in one area (a.k.a. hot and cold spots).

Working Theory: While cold spots are supposedly caused by a spirit's need for copious amounts of warm air in order to reveal itself, hot spots are tip-offs that one has just shown up (or, at least, is gearing up to) in said area. "It's a very old theory, albeit not a very scientific one," says Bruni.

What Would a Ghost Hunter Do? Cold and hot spots are some of the most common household irregularities for which ghost hunters are summoned, and they also seem to be one of the real trademarks of paranormal activity. But just because you've got cold feet or an, er...unusually hot seat, don't expect Bruni and her team to declare your house The Amityville Horror; you can be too quick with those haunting conclusions. "We've found many hot and cold spots that couldn't be traced to specific causes. But while they're strange, they alone aren't what Ghost Hunters classify as paranormal," she says.

Left: A digital infrared thermometer used by ghost hunters. Photo: The Ghost Hunter Store. Right: Black & Decker Thermal Leak Detector. Photo: Amazon

The Arsenal: Bruni uses a digital infrared (IR) thermometer to measure surface temperatures of objects (visible or not) within a certain distance -- even if they're moving. So, if a chilly apparition were to hover between you and a solid wall (which is surprisingly already pretty warm), your IR thermometer would detect a significant drop in temperature, which probably couldn't be readily explained. "We also use this cool tool called a thermocoupler, which measures ambient air temperature. It isolates the hot and cold spots to determine where they begin and end," she says.

The Likely Culprit: Just how can you be so sure The Sixth Sense isn't actually playing out in your living room? Drafts, open windows, faulty heating and cooling systems, poor ventilation and insufficient insulation are all the usual suspects. "If you live in an older non-winterized home with a window that's warped by even a fraction of an inch, frigid seasonal air can seem to hit you from out of nowhere. It's shocking, but you could unknowingly be standing in front of an open window," Bruni says. To ensure you're not losing your mind, or precious dollars due to energy leaks throughout your home, invest in a thermal leak detector. It could help you save up to 20 percent on heating and cooling costs every year -- and an embarrassing call to your local ghost hunter.

UNEXPLAINED PHENOMENON #2: Toilets flushing and taps running by themselves; mysterious drips and pools of water on the floor.

Working Theory: Water, especially large bodies of it, has long been thought to be a conduit between the supernatural and modern worlds. The element "seems to fuel paranormal activity somehow, similarly to how spirits are able to extract energy from electromagnetic waves."

What Would a Ghost Hunter Do? Call a plumber. Fortunately, Bruni doesn't have to look far. Her Ghost Hunters costars, Jason Hawes and Grant Wilson, are Rhode Island-based Roto-Rooter plumbers by day.

Left: Digital infrared camera used by ghost hunters. Photo: The Ghost Hunter Store. Right: A replacement refrigerator gasket seal. Photo: Amazon.

The Arsenal: While there's no specific ghost-hunter litmus test for water-borne peculiarities, some good, old-fashioned surveillance could help put homeowners' minds at ease. Ghost hunters like Bruni typically use digital infrared cameras and video monitoring systems to capture seen and unseen (invisible) activity so if someone, or something, has been taking its daily predawn soak in the family tub, you'll now be in the know.

The Likely Culprit: Bad or faulty plumbing. A "phantom-flushing" toilet (when the flapper's worn out, the toilet constantly refills and flushes because it allows water to leak from the cistern into the bowl.) Older faucet handles eventually stop being able to properly prevent water from coming out of the faucet. Something called the valve seat gets worn out over time and needs to be replaced (you'll know yours needs TLC if a handle turns nearly 360 degrees without stopping). "When this happens," says Bruni, "city water pressure is often enough to start water running by itself." A clogged central AC drain line. (The evaporator coil's pan could be overflowing due to the block; water then pools on the floor or leaks down into the floor below the unit, and then, into the ceiling above another floor of the home.) A refrigerator that's improperly sealing. (Refrigerators are forced to work overtime when they can't close all the way, so condensation builds on the coils and pools on the floor. For a proper seal: wash the rubber gasket with warm, soapy water. Rinse. Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly.)

UNEXPLAINED PHENOMENON 3: Strange odors, both good and bad.

Working Theory: Ghost hunters have gotten reports of rogue wafts of everything from pipe smoke, rotten eggs and hemp to sweet hints of oranges, bubble gum and perfume. Many theorize that ghosts express themselves via these scents, but what a cloud of Old Spice says (besides "I'm a man, and a provider") is really anyone's guess.

What Would a Ghost Hunter Do? Of course, she'd investigate. Bruni told us that there are instances in which people do smell real scents. A 2007 Ghost Hunters investigation of San Francisco's legendary Presidio social club revealed that whiffs of cigar and cigarette smoke from the years-defunct smoking lounge actually came from its original woodwork. "Changes in humidity caused wood to expand, contract and release decades-old smoke," says Bruni.

Left: Ghost hunters use their olfactory senses (a.k.a. their noses) to detect unexplained smells. Photo: Getty Images. Right: An ultraviolet disinfection system can remove smelly deposits from pipe. Photo: Amazon.

The Arsenal: There's no tried-and-true tool the Ghost Hunters can employ to determine sources of unexplained smells (save for the make-believe "Smell-O-Meter" Grant has said he wishes existed).

The Likely Culprit: Okay, bear with us, but a fetid odor that's concentrated in one area of a room could likely be a dead (and very unlucky) rodent that got trapped behind the wall. Oil heat systems, particularly after they've been serviced or haven't run for awhile, could smell a bit (but it shouldn't last for more than 20 minutes) and -- if they're really unpleasant -- you could have an oil leak or combustion problem on your hands; best to call a pro. Your water can give off a rotten-egg smell if it's passing through pipes or plumbing with sulfur buildup; it makes perfect sense that only one part of your house might be smelly; an ultraviolet disinfection system can remove the deposits. Maybe your garbage disposal's in need of a good cleaning? Trapped food and bacteria have been known to kick up a good stink. Flush out the disposal with a cup of white vinegar followed by two cups of boiling water, and then run it for good measure. Is something other than a poltergeist trying to get your attention? A dried-up plumbing-drain trap down in the basement can smell an awful lot like the undead. Buy some plumbing antifreeze, plug your nose and fill up the trap. Repeat as necessary. Still smelling that smell? "Many times there just is no explanation," says Bruni.

UNEXPLAINED PHENOMENON #4: Electrical appliances turning on and off willy nilly; rapid battery and light bulb burnout.

Working Theory: Like with water, spirits are apparently able to suck energy from electrical sources. But Bruni feels this theorem "probably boils down to the 80's movie, Poltergeist, Hollywood and TV" and has no real scientific basis. Still though, she has experienced it first-hand: "I once watched a light switch turn on by itself. But how it happened, I can't explain."

What Would a Ghost Hunter Do? Because there could be a household safety issue that requires immediate attention, "we don't want people to immediately assume an electrical irregularity is a ghost. Always call an electrician," cautions Bruni.

Left: An EMF meter is used by ghost hunters. Photo: Sears. Right: A multimeter can check for overvoltage of a circuit. Photo: Amazon.

The Arsenal: Because an electromagnetic field (EMF) is produced by nearly every structure (some weaker and stronger than others), it's thought that strong, recurring and erratic EMFs throughout someone's house-- and those that seem to move up and down staircases or through walls -- are good signs that there might be some bats in the belfry. Why the two are connected is still somewhat of a mystery, though. Because a slew of things radiate EMFs (the human body included), Bruni and the Ghost Hunters team use an EMF meter to rule out appliances (stovetops, washers and dryers, cordless telephones, fluorescent lights and computers) that may be generating ultra-high EMFs.

The Likely Culprit: Many times, electrical problems can be chalked up to plain old bad wiring. And as far as appliances turning on and off by themselves? Bruni says that it's often just a case of a forgetful homeowner. "Say you take something out of the microwave before the cooking time elapses. Then you shut the door and it's ancient history," says Bruni. Speedy battery drain, too, can be explained. Hot and cold temperatures and fluctuations in temperature both detrimentally affect battery performance -- and batteries can even lose 8 to 20 percent of their life by just sitting around in a drawer! Light-bulb burnout and flickering could be due to several things. Overvoltage of the circuit can cut a bulb's life in half. Check to see if yours is correct with a multimeter. Having a bulb that is a wattage that's too high for the fixture causes the bulb to burn too hot, thereby causing it to burn out faster; always use the suggested wattage. And last -- although this may seem obvious -- check to see if your bulb is screwed in tightly. Flickering is often due to excessive vibration. Buy a shock-resistant bulb if you figure out the light that's been giving you the creeps is in a high-traffic area.

UNEXPLAINED PHENOMENON #5: Vapor, mist and/or fog.

Working Theory: Some think these energies are portals between the physical and spirit realms, but Bruni and her team aren't fully convinced. "Some people report far-off mists outside, some are over water, some are tinged with blue or other colors and most are seen strictly in photos. But there's still no rock-solid science behind it," she adds.

What Would a Ghost Hunter Do? Although the Ghost Hunters mainly encounter these anomalies in photographs (they're usually whitish, opaque, long, and/or funnel-shaped streaks and hazy forms) Bruni did check out reports of a misty presence in the Cuban Club in Ybor City, Florida. "I actually saw it, too. It had no real shape. It just appeared from behind a stage curtain in the ballroom, illuminated a bit and went back from wherever it came from," says Bruni.

Left: An infrared motion sensor might be used by ghost hunters. Photo: TC Life Safety. Right: If your environment is humid or misty, your HVAC system might just be acting up. Photo: Getty Images

The Arsenal: If you're don't live in the Deep South, and you're convinced there's nothing scary about your home's heating and cooling systems, you could try investing in an infrared and/or ultrasonic motion sensor and hooking it up to your infrared digital camera. The former will prompt the camera to snap a shot of the spook once it flies across the camera's path.

The Likely Culprit: If the atmosphere in your den is looking as thick as the broth in a witch's cauldron, although unsettling, try to relax, your HVAC unit could be acting spooky. If you live in a particularly humid climate (we're talking 90 plus percent) and rely on an air conditioning system, a clogged drain pan may be the culprit. Although this is rare, your entire home could potentially fill with fog (harmless water vapor) and even trip your smoke alarms. It is common to see it in the freezer. Fog and mist seen outside can be caused by any number of natural weather conditions, during all four seasons of the year, in all areas of the world -- the possibilities are nearly endless. And on film, chances are the camera's lens unwittingly came into contact with moisture or condensation, someone's errant cigarette-smoke swirls, a wisp of human hair or a bit of airborne pollen -- each can look an awful lot like a scary specter that's angling in on your turf.

Ever experience spooky symptoms in the home? Tell us about it!

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Unusual Uses for Vodka

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-10-06T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Unusual Uses, Kitchen & Bath, Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

From cleaning jewelry to fighting stubborn stains, vodka has many handy uses -- other than pepping up your Bloody Mary! We've rounded up some unusual ways to put your bottom-shelf vodka to good use all around your house.

Vodka: not just for martinis anymore. Photo: Getty Images

Whether on the rocks, straight up or mixed in with your favorite cocktail, vodka has a reputation for being the life of the party. But make no mistake, this versatile spirit is more than just a one-trick pony. Thanks to its basic mixture of pure alcohol and water, vodka can be used as a strong household cleaner, pesticide and so much more. Bonus: it's a non-toxic alternative to many traditional products and chemicals.

Use Vodka for Stain Removal
Vodka can banish three of the most stubborn fabric stains known to man: ink, grass and lipstick. For ink and grass stains, dip a clean cloth in vodka and rub spot. Rinse thoroughly. Lipstick on your collar? Blot stain with vodka, then launder in your regular wash.

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Use Vodka to Clean Mold and Mildew
Instead of using toxic chemicals, fill a spray bottle with vodka to kill mold and mildew and knock out soap scum. On caulk and grout, spritz moldy areas and let sit for 30 minutes. Scrub area with an old toothbrush, tile/grout brush or nylon scouring-pad. Rinse thoroughly. For bathroom tiles, spray vodka and let sit for 5-10 minutes; then wash clean.

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Use Vodka to Preserve Fresh Flowers
Plants all produce ethylene, a ripening gas that promotes maturation. Vodka stunts ethylene production, thereby helping flowers stay wilt-free longer. To keep store-bought flowers fresh, snip an inch off of each stem, add two teaspoons of vodka and one teaspoon sugar. Stir well and repeat this process every few days.

Use Vodka as a Chemical-Free Weed Killer
With help from the sun's heat, the alcohol content in vodka destroys unwanted broad-leaf weeds -- such as dandelions, chickweed and wild onion -- by breaking down their waxy-cuticle coverings. This action dehydrates and dries plants out. Remove weeds by filling a spray bottle with an ounce of vodka, several drops of liquid dish soap, and two cups of water. On a sunny day, spritz weeds with the solution until dripping wet.

Tip: Direct sunlight is needed for this technique to work, as weeds in the shade won't dry out.

Use Vodka as an Adhesive Remover
Remove the glue left behind by bumper stickers and price labels with a clean cloth soaked in vodka. Rub over the sticky area for easy removal.

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Use Vodka to Clean Chrome, Glass and Jewelry
Vodka is effective at making dull bathroom fixtures, chandeliers, eyeglasses, windowpanes and even precious gemstones (only stones that are a crystal, such as diamonds) sparkle like new.

- For chandeliers: Moisten a clean microfiber cloth with vodka and rub over dusty surfaces. Alternatively, you can spritz the chandelier with a solution of one cup water and one teaspoon of vodka in a spray bottle. Lay a drop cloth on the floor to catch drips.

- For chrome: Soak a soft, clean cloth with vodka and shine.

- For eyeglasses: Dip a clean, lint-free cloth in vodka and rub each lens (back and front) until clear.

- For jewelry: Measure out one-fourth cup vodka in a shallow drinking glass or bowl. Drop in jewelry and let soak for 5-10 minutes. Rinse and dry. Tip: Do NOT clean pearls, opals and other porous stones via this method.

- For windowpanes: Mix one cup water and one teaspoon vodka in a spray bottle. Spritz on windows and wipe clean with paper towels or a clean microfiber cloth.

Use Vodka as an All-Natural Pesticide
Also known as plant lice, aphids are tiny soft-bodied insects that suck the nutrient-rich sap from the stems of plants. To keep aphids off of plants add four cups water, four teaspoons of dishwashing liquid and four teaspoons vodka in a large spray bottle. Shake well and spritz areas where you spot infestations.

Use Vodka to Eliminate Odors
Vodka eradicates foul stenches -- and doesn't leave a scent when it dries. For an odorless air freshener, mix one part vodka with three parts water in a small spray bottle. Spritz area and let dry.

Have you tried any of these methods? What other household items have you found unusual uses for?

SEE ALSO:
Out of Vodka? Beer Can Be Handy Too
Unusual Uses for Alka-Seltzer
Vodka: Surprising Use for Laundry

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The Daily Fix: Repair a Zipper

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-09-27T09:00:00 00:00

So you're replacing a freshly washed pillow cover or just putting on your jacket when -- uh oh! -- the zipper separates! What could be more annoying? Well, no need to grit your teeth. We've got the 411 on zipper repair.

Corbis Images

Whether you've hit a snag that seems immovable, the teeth are misaligned or separated, or the whole thing's busted and the slider's come off in your hand, that zipper can be saved! Zipper repair is not as difficult or as time-consuming as you might think. Here's how to get things gliding smoothly again.

Tools & Supplies
A sewing needle
A seam ripper, pair of scissors, thread nippers, or a razor blade
Thick thread
Needle nose pliers
A safety pin (optional)
A candle, pencil, bar of soap (optional)
Replacement slider (optional)
Sewing pins

Types of Zippers
There are generally two types of zippers: closed-end, and open-end.

Closed-end zippers: One end always stays fastened on this type of zipper. Think: jeans, upholstery cushions, pillowcases, and bags.
Open-end zippers: Both tracks come completely apart on this type of zipper. Think: jackets and sleeping bags.

Why Do Zippers Stop Zipping?
When it's brand new, a zipper's slider (the part that joins and separates the teeth when the zipper is open or closed) starts off tightly attached and precisely calibrated, ensuring both sets of teeth (the grooved elements that pass through the slider) fit together to form a perfect chain (interlocked teeth).

But after repeated use, tiny gaps can form between the teeth and the slider -- and that's when the problems start. Here's what to do if you run into trouble:

Scenario #1: The slider isn't gliding smoothly:
1. Rub candle wax, a bar of soap or a graphite pencil over the surfaces and edges of both sets of teeth. Do it while the zipper is open, then close the zipper and do it again.
2. Open and close the zipper several times.
3. Wipe off residue with a clean, dry cloth.

Scenario #2: The slider is stuck:
1. Flip over the fabric to see if something's caught in it. Thread? More fabric? Lint?
2. Remove the obstruction with scissors, thread nippers or a razor blade until the slider pulls free.

Scenario #3: The chain separates below the slider, or the slider gets off track:
1. Pry off the metal stop at the base of the zipper (the piece that prevents the slider from falling off) with needle nose pliers.
2. Move the slider down toward the base of the zipper (but don't remove it completely!), smoothing out any gaps and creases. Then carefully realign the teeth, one by one.
3. Run the slider halfway up the chain to ensure teeth interlock properly. Once they do, zip it up all the way.
4. Stitch a new stop with a needle and thread. Knot the end of the thread and start sewing on the inside of the fabric (where the stitches will go unseen). Make six or seven tight passes. Tie off and double-knot the thread, then trim excess with scissors.

Scenario #4: The slider breaks off:
1. Undo the stitching that secures the lower portion of the zipper tape (the polyester, or other synthetic fabric on which the teeth are attached) in place.
2. Pry off the metal stop and remove the slider.
3. Smooth any gaps; realign teeth.
4. Re-thread teeth through the slider. Gently tug until both sets are in and evenly aligned. (It's helpful to hold the slider in one hand and pull on the teeth with the other.)
5. Drag the slider upward to form a chain.
6. Follow Step 4 in Scenario #3 (above) to stitch a new stop with your needle and thread.

Scenario #5: The slider is missing its pull-tab:
1. If you still have the pull-tab, reattach it to the metal loop that it slipped out of and squeeze the loop -- so it closes tighter -- using needle nose pliers.
2. No pull-tab? A safety pin or paper clip both work in a pinch.

Scenario #6: The zipper is missing teeth:
If the missing tooth is located on the bottom portion of the chain:
1. Position the slider slightly higher than the missing tooth.
2. Stitch a new stop for the slider just above the gap.
NOTE: If a tooth is missing in the upper two-thirds of the chain, it's time to replace the zipper.

SEE ALSO:
Fix a Stuck Zipper with Pencil Lead (Real Simple)
How to Choose Upholstery Fabrics (ShelterPop)

So your zipper is fixed, but what about a sweater snag or loose button? Watch this video for these additional tips:

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The Daily Fix: Troubleshoot Your Air Conditioner

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-08-04T08:40:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Emily D Elliott, Flickr

No cold air? No sweat. Try diagnosing the problem on your own and you could be well on your way to cool runnings in no time.

Nothing compares to the feeling of a cool breeze streaming from an air conditioner on a sweltering summer day -- or the devastation of one that decides to go kaput just when you need it most. Air conditioners can be pretty time-consuming and costly to repair (professionally or on your own) -- and even more wallet-draining to replace.

The best defense is to address problems as soon as they arise. Even if there's just a hint that your window or central air unit isn't performing up to par, look into it immediately. If the difference between the outdoor and indoor temperatures is 15 degrees or more, then nothing is probably awry. But if the disparity is higher, you'll want to take action.

PROBLEMS RECEIVING COOL AIR THROUGH WINDOW AIR CONDITIONING UNITS
Window air conditioning units sit on the sill and are smaller than both a split air conditioning units and central air conditioning units, and are designed to cool a designated area. Unfortunately, you're pretty limited in the scope of work you can do on a window unit. Unfortunately, most window A/Cs aren't designed to be taken apart and fixed, but instead used and tossed after a few seasons. Still, there are some things you could try.

Common cause #1: Dirt is gumming up the works.
Grime. Dust. Crud. Whatever you call it, it's definitely the bane of any window unit's existence, as it hinders the efficiency of its essential components. First, unplug the unit and tackle the filter. If your A/C has a dirty filter, chances are it also has a dirty evaporator coil. Dirt reduces airflow to the coil and insulates it, thereby reducing its ability to absorb heat. So slide out the insert (you may need to remove the front grille to gain access) and wash it in the sink (if it's disposable, replace it) with soap and water, then rinse and let dry completely before putting it back in place. For optimal performance, repeat this once a month.

Common cause #2: Buckled condenser fins.
Because they're made of fine-gauge aluminum, the fins that make up the condenser coil (where Freon gas travels through, absorbs heat, and cools the air) often bend and can prevent air from properly being drawn out of the unit. In this case, use a fin comb, which has ultra-thin tines designed to fit between smashed fins, to straighten them as best you can.

Common cause #3: It's working too hard.
If your unit is near a heat source (i.e. someone else's unit or a huge TV), or if it's surrounded by thick vegetation and isn't given ample space for proper air circulation, it's simply not going to work as well as it should because it's being forced to work overtime. According to This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, you should "install window units on the north or east side of your house, or build a screen to shield [it] from the sun. Putting [it] in direct sunlight reduces efficiency by as much as 10 percent."

Thinking of hiring out the fix? Generally, it's never worth the expense of having a window unit serviced even if you think it might be salvageable, as house calls will cost you at least $100 -- and that's excluding parts and labor. If your unit fails within the first couple months of its purchase, it's probably covered by the manufacturer's warranty, and you should be entitled to a replacement. Our advice? If the A/C is already few years old and none of these tricks work, give it the old heave-ho and opt for a new Energy Star-qualified unit.

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PROBLEMS RECEIVING COOL AIR THROUGH YOUR SPLIT SYSTEM OR CENTRAL AIR UNIT
First, a quick primer: split systems and central air systems work exactly the same way: both have outdoor condensers and indoor evaporators. Split systems don't, however, have ductwork like central air, are smaller, and generally cool one room as opposed to the whole home.

Common cause #1: Yup, it's dirt. Again.
First, always switch off the breaker next to the unit before you begin any work. Split systems tend to have removable filters that should be washed in the sink with soap and water. Central air filters should be disposed of and replaced monthly. In both systems, unscrew the outer housing and inspect the condensing unit for obstructions such as grass clippings, leaves, and other debris that could be blocking airflow. Gently clear debris from coils and aluminum fins with a soft brush and replace the housing. (Also, check the condenser fins for signs of buckling and straighten them out, too.) It's also important that the condenser have at least 24 inches of unfettered breathing room for the unit to run efficiently, and to prevent the fan from overheating, and thus the motor from breaking down.

Common cause #2: Leaky ductwork.
So your central system is definitely running but the house isn't cooling off? Air could be escaping through gaps in ceiling ducts. Head up to the attic to check for leaks; hold up a lit incense stick next elbow joints and seams. If you see plumes of smoke being pulled toward, or pushed away from, the duct you have a leak that needs sealing. Carefully seal all openings with thermal mastic duct tape and that should solve the problem.

Common cause #3: Low Freon levels.
When you've ruled out other more obvious culprits like dirt and air leaks, it may be time to consider whether the refrigerant Freon is slowly leaking out of your unit. Look at the two copper lines extending out of the back of your condensing unit: the thicker of the two lines should have a round glass indicator showing a colored dot within. If the dot appears green or yellow, your Freon level is adequate. If the dot is red and liquid appears to be bubbling from underneath the glass, you probably have a leak, and it's time to call a pro. Since Freon gas is strictly regulated by the EPA, no one but a licensed pro can handle it.

Do you have any experience with your own DIY air conditioning fixes? Tell us here!

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How to Get Rid of Ants

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-07-29T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

fotemas, Flickr

Does your home turn into an ant farm once summer rolls around? Here's how to identify common household ants -- and send them marching!

It's not your imagination: summer's heat does tend to lead ants indoors, where they seek food and a cool place to take shelter. The good news is, once you eliminate their creature comforts and devise a bait system that's targeted toward the species under your roof, you'll likely solve your seasonal ant problems once and for all.

IDENTIFY THE ANT
Once you figure out the specific species of ants in your home, you can then figure out where they're nesting (inside or out), what's attracting them inside your home, and how best to eradicate them once and for all.

Clockwise: Carpenter ant (Photo: dimus62, Flickr); Pharoah ant, alive and dead (Photo: Prescription Pest Control); Thief ant (Photo: Michigan State University)

Carpenter Ants: Large (up to a ½-inch long) black or red-and-black worker ants.

What they eat: Meats, honeydew, sugars, jelly. (Contrary to what you may have heard, they don't eat wood, they chew it into sawdust to create tunnels for foraging.)
Where to look for them (indoors): Primarily in the walls. Also, in attic beams, roofing materials, insulation, behind bathroom tile, around bathtubs, sinks, showers, and dishwashers, inside doors and curtain rods.
What to do: First, find the nest -- exterminators recommend following the insects' path (especially at night, because they're nocturnal; use a flashlight to see where they're entering your house from outside); they'll lead you directly to their nest. Then treat the nest directly. The least toxic method is to use carpenter ant baits, strategically placed near the nest. An insecticide meant specifically for carpenter ants, like Terro Ant Killer Dust, is an effective, non-aerosol solution; use it in or near the nest.

Pharaoh Ants: Small (about 1/16-inch long), light yellow to red workers with darker thoraxes. (If you're seeing more and more tiny ants, even in winter, they're probably Pharaohs.)

What they eat: Grease, fat, sweets, toothpaste, soap, foods other ants don't usually go for. They're also attracted to water sources in bathrooms and kitchens.
Where to look for them: Only indoors, because they're a tropical species; in walls, appliances, linens, and heating ducts, behind walls, countertops, baseboards, and light switches and fixtures, and near moisture. Nests are notoriously hard to find.
What to do: Pharaoh ants live in large colonies, and when they detect poison, they pick up their nests and scatter throughout the house (this phenomenon is called budding). Because of this response, it can be hard to get rid of these ants yourself; you'd have to bait the nest itself, and anywhere else the ants might choose to nest when they flee. You can try using a bait like MaxForce in various corners of the home and hope for the best, or you can call a pro.

Thief Ants (a.k.a. Grease Ants): Very, very small (1/20-inch long) yellow to light brown workers. Often confused with Pharaoh ants, they curl up into a ball when they die.

What they eat: Greasy foods, peanut butter, cheese, meat, nuts, sweets.
Where to look for them (indoors): Under counters, behind walls and baseboards, in cabinets. As with Pharaohs', their nests are also hard to find.
What to do: Since they usually come in from the outside, you can effectively treat your home's perimeter to control them in a variety of natural ways, or place baits near hotspots of activity. If you know the nest is inside, you can best solve the problem with bait that's marketed to destroy grease-feeding ants, like MaxForce granules.

NATURAL ANT CONTROL
Although ants seem like a scourge we'd like to do anything to eradicate, it's healthiest for your family and pets to try non-toxic alternatives (which are actually highly effective) before bringing pesticides into the home. After all, your home should be a safe-haven not a no-fly zone. Here's a recipe for natural ant bait:

In a small, unlidded plastic bottle, combine ½-teaspoon boric acid, honey, and aspartame (artificial sweetener) and set on its side as a trap for unwanted visitors. Intruders will be attracted to the sweetness, but must traipse through the all-natural borax to get to it, which when brought back to the nest, will destroy colony members' exoskeletons. It's important to keep borax away from kids and pets; although it's relatively harmless, it shouldn't be ingested.

PREVENT FUTURE ANT INFESTATIONS
In most cases, you'll need to reach the root of the problem (i.e. the nest) and destroy the queen to get rid of the whole colony. Nests can usually be located by following trails, or movement patterns, of foraging ants.

While it might be tempting squash the ten-odd soldiers that take a wrong turn onto your kitchen sill, live ants are actually attracted to the scent of dead brethren and will come running by the dozens to come collect the carcasses. Try instead to work toward an ant-free home with these everyday practices:

-- Store food properly: Store staples in airtight containers, wiping down countertops; seal up and immediately storing leftovers; regularly vacuum up pets' food niblets; don't leave dirty dishes in the sink.

-- Manage your waste: Take out the trash frequently (every day, if you can) and rinse recyclables before storing.

-- Seal up openings: If you see an ant column (a line) of ants, follow it to its beginning, and seal up the entry point, and any cracks and crevices around it, with caulk. No caulk? Use petroleum jelly. Then vacuum up the workers with a cleaner equipped with a HEPA filter. Vacuuming (as opposed to squashing) prevents ants from releasing the chemicals that alert other workers to their demise. Safely dispose of the bag immediately. Wipe up leftover chemical trails (just go along where they were walking) with a mild soap-and-water solution.

-- Block the perimeter: Draw a chalk - yes, chalk - line around windows and doorways; ants looking to invade from the outdoors won't cross the line.

-- Find a nest: Bait a pill-bottle cap with a dab of peanut butter, jelly or bacon grease. Stand watch and follow the critters back to their lair.

-- Guard the pantry: Dip a few bay leaves in mouthwash, let dry, and place haphazardly on shelves to repel ants and keep them from raiding the sugar, flour and paprika.

Clean countertops: Use a vinegar-and-water solution (mix one, equal parts, and store in a spray bottle) as your go-to multipurpose surface cleaner; ants despise vinegar and it's a powerful all-natural disinfectant.

Doing these things meticulously and relentlessly for three to seven days should reduce the numbers of workers marching indoors to forage for sustenance. Keep in mind that ants are inclined to follow chemical trails laid down by other ants who've found food in the past. In time, trails will go cold.

WHEN TO CALL A PRO
Of course, if you've got bigger problems (i.e. you suspect a nest is hidden behind a wall) ant removal may best be left to a reputable pest management pro, because the application of an insecticidal dust via small, drilled holes may be the only way to go. While baits could work in this case, as workers feed on its contents and take it back to the hidden nest, they act slowly, and may take up to several months to work their magic. Remember: different ant species are attracted to different bait.

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How to Hang a Hammock Between Trees

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-07-09T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Patios, Porches & Decks, Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

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Setting up a hammock -- and getting yourself into one -- takes skill and precision. Think you can hang?

The hammock is one of the quintessential symbols of summer and the ultimate stress-reliever. Now, lounging is one thing. But actually hanging the hammock? Not as leisurely -- especially if you've been the victim of a vicious roll-up-and-spit-out attack!

Most hammocks come in a kit with hanging hardware included; this is the easiest route to take. Some hammocks even come complete with floor stands. But if yours doesn't, there are several places you hang your hammock: between two posts on your wooden deck or from the ceiling of your covered porch (the latter option works best for hammocks without spreader bars).

Here we'll focus on the old-fashioned, tried-and-true method: hanging a hammock between two trees. You can find hammocks in various lengths, depending on the distance between your trees. Plus, we'll give you a few great tips on the right way to get in the hammock -- and stay there.

1. Choose the location. Where, and how, you hang your hammock depends on the following factors:
-- Whether the trees will support the hammock's weight capacity (indicated on label)
-- Whether you can work with the distance between the trees (they can't be too far or too close)
-- Whether your hammock has spreader bars (wooden slats on either side that provide support, prevent it from twisting and keep it opened up -- not folded in half)

2. Select your trees. Both should be hardwood trees (oak, maple or beech, for example), completely healthy and at least one foot in diameter.

3. Calculate hanging distance. Measure the length of your hammock and the distance between the two trees. Say you've chosen a 15-foot-long (end-to-end) hammock with spreader bars; the distance between trees should be at least the length of the hammock : 15 feet.

If the trees are further apart than the hammock's length, you'll need to extend it, with equal lengths of rope or chain, on both sides, no more than 18 inches per side. Extending its length beyond three feet total will exponentially up the tip-over factor.

For maximum stability, hammocks with spreader bars should be pulled as taut as possible, positioned completely parallel to the ground.

Because a hammock without spreader bars is designed to hang freely, and dip down slightly in the center, the trees from which you hang it can actually be closer together (a.k.a. less than its total length from end to end). Aim to hang this type of hammock at least two-thirds of its length in inches/feet. For example, If you have a 15-foot hammock without spreaders, its hanging distance should be at least 120 inches. Two feet more (12 inches on each side) and you'll hit the maximum recommendation. Hanging requirements are pretty flexible for this type of hammock; just remember that the closer the trees, the higher up their trunks you'll need to hang it -- and the farther apart, the closer to the ground.

4. Determine height from the ground. This part's pretty simple: Hammocks with spreader bars should be approximately four to five feet off the ground while those without them can be hung six to eight feet above it. Just remember: Mosquitoes can be brutal at dusk -- and beyond. If you're planning to pass out, douse yourself with your insect repellent of choice. (This writer has this lesson the hard way!)

5. Get in -- the right way! Let's face it; getting in a hammock can sometimes be comical. Here's how not to embarrass yourself. Stand with your back to the hammock, as if you were going to sit in a chair -- don't straddle it or climb in feet-first. Reach back and lightly grab on to steady it. (For hammocks without spreaders, spread it out a bit before sitting so your weight is evenly distributed.) Sit, stretch your legs, and flip them both onto the hammock.

Then commence relaxation! When you want to get out (probably in a hundred years or so), swing your legs over one side and sit up -- while gripping the edges for stability -- and pry yourself out. Relax, you've earned it!

** We want to hear from you: Got a funny hammock story? Share it here! **

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Summer Maintenance: Clean Your Dryer Vent

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-07-06T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Geoff S., Flickr

Through regular use, lint and other debris will eventually restrict airflow to and from your clothes dryer. This can impede the dryer's performance and post a serious fire hazard. Simple cleaning of the dryer's vent hose is all that's needed.

Summer equals laundry, and lots of it. So it's the perfect time to clean your dryer vent of any lint and other debris that accumulates year-round. Plus, during chilly weather - which often coincides with mating seasons - birds are attracted to a dryer vent's warmth and safety (nests in upper-floor vents are more common than on ground-levels). By summer, most of our feathered friends will have stopped breeding, and flown the coop.

If your dryer fails to heat up, leaves brown or orange marks on clothing, or takes longer than normal (over 45 minutes) to dry clothes, this means it's not running at maximum efficiency (the motor is working much too hard) and that It's posing a very serious fire hazard. (When the motor works overtime, it can overheat and ignite wads of trapped lint.)

But even if your dryer is operating smoothly, you'll still need to clear blockage once or twice a year - or more, if something seems amiss.

Follow these steps to properly clean your dryer vent and have it running safely and smoothly:

1. Unplug the dryer. To locate the outlet, pull the unit about two feet away from the wall.

2. Disconnect the hose. Unscrew and loosen the clamp that connects the flexible pipe to the elbow-shaped joint (usually made of aluminum). Slide off the pipe and detach the elbow. Clear out any lint with a vacuum cleaner's crevice tool.

3. Shine a light inside the internal dryer vent; This is the opening that's attached to the dryer itself). See a sock? Eighty-six it - and anything else that's stuck in there.

4. Vacuum out the dryer vent, the flexible hose, the back of the dryer, the floor and the surrounding areas with the crevice tool.

5. Scrub the back of the dryer, the floor and the wall with a mild soap-and-water solution and let dry. Detergents and fabric softeners can form a layer of buildup that attracts lint.

6. Reattach the hose and elbow to the dryer vent. Slide the hose over the elbow, tighten the clamp with your screwdriver and fit the elbow back onto the dryer vent.

7. Remove the vent leading outside. One person's venting system is likely different from the next, so whether yours goes under a floor and/or through walls, you'll need to (again) unscrew clamps, remove the hose from the exterior vent and detach sections of duct. If your vent is really long, with several bends, invest in a brush that's specifically designed to snake through long tubing. Once you've pulled everything apart to remove the lint, try vacuuming the individual sections, too.

McBeth, Flickr

8. Disconnect the exterior vent. It's attached to the house in a variety of ways: It could be nailed in, screwed in, caulked or all of the above. Use a razor knife to remove caulk and either a hammer or screwdriver to finish the job. Gently pull it away from the house.

9. Vacuum inside the exterior vent and under the vent hood. Then, reattach the vent to the house.

10. Go indoors and fit the flexible hose back onto the exterior vent pipe. Then retighten the clamp.

11. Reattach all sections of duct and re-tighten all other clamps. Be sure everything is tightly fastened and that the duct isn't kinked.

12. Plug in the dryer. Push it back against the wall.

Your clothes dryer should now be in the clear!

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Father's Day Gift Guide

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-06-17T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Holidays, Crafts & Celebrations

Nurture your dad's DIY side by giving him one of these nine ingenious gadgets.

Craftsman

Leatherman Hybrid, $60
Call it the multi- multi-tool. At just under five inches long, this tiny stainless-steel gadget packs quite a wallop. In addition to all the standard attachments Dad would expect to see (screwdrivers, a bottle opener), this one boasts pruning shears, a bark lifter/grafting tool, wire cutters, a weed remover, and a sprinkler tool that's designed to unclog irrigation heads, making it equally adept on small repairs and more serious yard work.

REI

Diamond Strike-a-Fire Matches, $2.75
No need for him to pack the lighter fluid for his next guys weekend (or to collect kindling once he's set up camp). These clean-burning, odorless matches burn smoothly -- without the aid of paper or tinder -- for an amazing 12 minutes with no flare-ups. Eight matches per package.

Dremel

Dremel 8200 1/28 12VMax Lithium-ion Cordless Rotary Tool Kit, $101.50
Now cordless and completely portable (it's powered by 12VMAX Lithium-ion battery), the newest Dremel rotary tool cuts two times faster than its adversaries, boasts an even stronger motor than its corded predecessor, and weighs just one pound, making it a boon for smaller projects involving everything from furniture assembly to cutting, sanding, and polishing. Includes storage case and 28 attachments.

Craftsman

Craftsman C3 19.2-volt Cordless Inflator, $45
Break out the pool floats and the snow tubes: With the help of Craftsman's portable pump, Dad can inflate both in record time. In can also pump up two automobile tires on a single charge. A digital readout alerts him when he's reached desired pressure and shuts off automatically to prevent over-inflation.

Photo: Black & Decker

Black & Decker MSW100 ReadyWrench, $15
No need for a cumbersome socket set -- which means no more lost sockets! This handy all-in-one accommodates a whopping 16 standard (and metric) socket sizes. Both of the rotating heads lock in place once he's found the right one, and also detent at 45- and 90-degree angles so it can be used as a ratchet.

Amazon.com

2x4basics AnySize Workbench Kit, Model# 90164, $60
For the dad who's always wanted a space to call his own: This kit enables him to construct his own (8-foot by 4-foot or smaller) workbench in one hour flat. Once he's bought the 2 x 4s for the frames and the plywood for the tops (he can bring the necessary measurements to the lumberyard or cut them to size on his own), it's smooth sailing from there. Includes six shelf links, four resin legs, two work holders, four hooks, instructions, and hardware.

Garden Groom

Garden Groom Pro Electric Hedge Trimmer, $150
Landscaping and trimming just got a whole lot easier for him. This brilliant tool collects clippings as you go along, eliminating the need to go back and tidy up. A protective shield prevents injuries and unintentional cord-cutting, and draws cuttings into its waste container (holds up to 70 square feet of clippings) or detachable collector bag (700 square-foot capacity). Shreds leaves, needles, and branches that can later be used for mulch or composting.

Orvis

Cobb Grill, $169
At barely over a foot tall (and wide), this portable stainless-steel beauty can be toted anywhere and set on nearly any outdoor surface. Ten briquettes are enough to grill, smoke, roast, or bake anything for up to three hours at 500°F, yet it remains-almost magically-cool to the touch. Includes roasting rack, grill, and soft carry case.

Boulder Looks

Rock Box Propane Tank Cover, $2,195
A clever solution for hiding that 800-pound gorilla on his front lawn, this splurge-worthy fiberglass-composite cover provides a natural-looking enclosure for an unsightly above-the-ground propane tank while protecting it from extreme weather and temperatures. Available in five colors to best match landscaping and coloring of other rocks in the vicinity, it can be installed in less than 30 minutes. Fits a standard 250-gallon propane tank.

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The Daily Fix: Replace an Oven Element

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-06-09T08:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects

MCT

Is your electric oven on the fritz? You may be able to save a costly visit from the appliance repairman by replacing its heating element yourself.

An electric oven's heating element is a curved tube that houses a wire. When the oven is on, electricity heats up the wire, and the heat spreads throughout the oven. Most electric ovens contain both a bake element and a broil element. Failure to heat properly, as well as bubbles and breaks in the sheath, are signs that your heating element may need to be replaced. (First make sure there isn't a problem with the main power supply. Also, if both elements won't light, it might be a wiring problem.)

Changing out a faulty element is really quite simple. All you need is about 20 minutes, the following items and a little know-how.

Tools & Supplies

o. Two clothespins, paper clips, or the like.
o. Phillips-head screwdriver
o. Nut driver (optional)
o. A new bake element or broil element. (Either give the hardware store's salesperson the correct model and serial number of the element you need -- it's printed on a tag located inside the oven's bottom drawer -- or bring along your old element for proper identification. If you know just what kind of heating element you need, you can order a replacement online too.)

Oven heating element. Photo: Amazon

Instructions

1. Cut the power. Switch off the circuit breaker and unplug the range from the wall socket. Once the oven is completely cool, remove both baking racks.

2. Locate the heating element. Open the oven door and look inside. You'll see that the bake element is at the base of the oven, while the broil element is up top; both are attached to a mounting plate that sits flush against the oven's rear wall. Remove the oven racks for easy access to the element.

3. Detach the old element. With your nut driver, loosen the two hex-head screws that hold the element to the mounting plate (if they're regular screws, just use your Phillips-head driver); the broil element may have two additional screws that attach to the ceiling of the oven.

4. Pull out the element. Then gently pull the element toward you - it will still be secured to the oven by two electrical supply wires, which are also connected with two more screws. Before loosening those, clip one clothespin to each wire -- this prevents them from slipping back behind the oven once they're unfastened. Now it's safe to unhitch the wires from their terminals (the metal pieces to which the wires are attached).

5. Install the new element. Slide its terminals back through the holes in the mounting bracket and tightly refasten wires to the terminals (either wire to either terminal is fine). Reposition the element and re-thread the wires back into their holes (be sure they're not pinched between the wall and bracket). Line up the element with the bracket and, with the original screws, reattach the bracket to the oven wall.

6. Restore power. Flip the circuit breaker and plug that baby back in. Then celebrate your DIY dexterity by cooking up a mouth-watering tray of lasagna!

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The Daily Fix: Quiet a Noisy Bathroom Exhaust Fan

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-06-08T08:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects

Getty Images

If your bathroom exhaust fan has become ear-splitting over time, it's probably in need of a simple tune-up.

While some bathroom exhaust fans are noisy right off the bat, others can develop maladies with age. If your fan's always been a bit on the deafening side, it may simply mean that you've got an inexpensive model. (Although cheaper models still tend to do the job as well as pricier versions.)

But if the noise has worsened with age, it can be addressed with some simple cleaning. In fact, it's best to try to fix the problem yourself, before heading out to buy a new fan -- which is, incidentally, a more expensive and complicated task.

So, switch off that circuit breaker (oh yeah, and the fan) and get to work!

1. Try the lid.
First, check to see if the cover is attached tightly enough to the ceiling and/or the fan's housing. Often times, a tightened screw will eliminate any vibration. (If the cover is spring-loaded, try pressing both prongs inward so they'll more securely grasp the cover.)

2. Remove the cover.
If step 1 doesn't work, try the cleaning and lubricating method. First, remove the cover. An exhaust fan's cover is usually attached to its housing in one of three following ways. Identify your type and remove it accordingly.

o. With metal springs: Gently pull down on the cover until you see the springs (they're held in with long prongs). Detach springs by pressing both prongs inward, toward the center of the fan body.
o. With one screw behind the light bulb: Just pop out the plastic protective sheeting and unscrew the bulb. Remove the screw; the light assembly and cover will come out as one, revealing the motor.
o. With recessed screws: They're usually located within the cover's grille. If you can't readily see them, a flashlight will help you locate them. Loosen the screws just enough so that the cover can be turned counterclockwise, then gently pull down to release it.

3. Banish dirt and grime.
Buildup of dust and grime creates needless resistance for a fan's moving parts, and is often a likely culprit in the noisiness department. Dirt also puts undue stress on the motor, makes it work overtime and brings it one step closer to burning out. To clean the inside of the fan, you'll first need to unscrew and remove the bracket (the frame that holds the motor in place) and unplug the motor. Use your vacuum's crevice tool to suck debris off fan blades and from within the housing (compressed air works, too, although it's messier). Remove the blades, take them to the sink and wash them with soap and water. Wipe dry with a soft cloth and replace.!

4. Grease the skids.
Lack of lubrication may also cause ungodly squeaks and squawks. Before you replace the fan's cover, apply one or two drops of oil to the area where the motor and the fan's shaft meet. (Sewing machine oil is ideal; WD-40 will actually further dry out joints.) Turn the shaft through a few rotations, replace blades, turn a few times, and wipe off excess drips. Plug the motor back in, reattach the bracket to the housing, and replace the cover. Turn on the main circuit, flip on the fan's power and get ready for the moment of truth.

Of course, there's always a slight chance these fixes won't totally silence your bathroom exhaust fan. If it still sounds like a low-flying plane, the motor could be going kaput. In that case, a new fan might be the way to go. Although it's not necessarily cheaper to replace only the motor, doing so is relatively easier (skill-wise) and less labor-intensive than completely removing the old fan, housing and all.

When looking for a new motor, be sure it can adequately ventilate your bathroom. The right size fan is crucial in mold-, mildew- and excess-moisture prevention. To determine the right fan for your needs, consult the Home Ventilating Institute. Its recommendations are based on room size and the number of fixtures within.

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How to Spray Paint Glass, Metal and More

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-06-04T09:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Essential Skills, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Blogger Anie Packman uses glossy white spray paint to transform a clear glass into an antique milk-glass replica. Photo: Marry You Me

Instructions for painting several common surfaces, including glass, metal, plastic, porcelain, ceramic, and wood.

Spray painting is one of the easiest ways to transform any object -- an accessory, a piece of furniture, even electronics -- in a matter of minutes. You already know the rules for spray painting the right way (if you haven't seen our previous post, it's a must-read before attempting any of these projects. Common mistakes like drips, poor adhesion, and bubbling can ruin your work). Now it's time to get started giving your furnishings a facelift.

HOW TO SPRAY PAINT GLASS
Think: Mirrors, tabletops, vases, windowpanes.

1. Roughen it up. Work surfaces over with a chemical etcher or 80-grit sandpaper.

2. Remove dirt and dust. Douse a paper towel with some quick-drying glass cleaner and wipe the glass. Allow the surface to dry.

3. Prime the surface. (Optional) Glass naturally expands and contracts with temperature fluctuations; when applied to glass, spray-paint can creep (move around and create unsightly seams) or crack if it's not prepared correctly. Primer helps you end up with a smooth, unblemished finish.

4. Apply paint. Be sure you're 10 to 12 inches away from the surface. Air-dry according to manufacturer's recommendations. One more coat should be all you need at this point. You should be able to repaint within minutes, given proper conditions (check the label). Let dry. Repeat step four if necessary.

METAL
Think: Appliances, barbecue grills, bicycles, fences, file cabinets, fireplace screens, hardware, light fixtures, radiators, buckets and cans.

Blogger Jessica Woody upcycles cans into decorative vessels using spray paint and decoupage techniques. Photo: Eco-Friendly Freckles

1. Remove flecks of rust. Use chemical rust remover, 120-grit sandpaper or a wire brush. If you're dealing with oily residue (found on newer lawn furniture, say), rub it off a damp rag and mild dish detergent. Use denatured alcohol for stubborn residue. Let dry completely.

2. Clean and dull. Sand down any glossiness, paying close attention to any chips and dings. Remove dust with a dry tack cloth.

3. Prime. It'll help seal and smooth uneven surfaces even further, hide any staining, help paint adhere, and ensure you get the right color. Let dry according to the can's recommended drying time, usually one to two hours.

4. Start spraying. Hold the can 10 to 12 inches from the surface and spray repeatedly in one direction -- back and forth.

Tip: Shop around for a good-quality metallic spray finish. It'll cost a little more, but because it contains real metal particles -- not dyed-metal ones -- you'll achieve a smoother coat and a higher-gloss, pro-grade finish.

PLASTIC
Think: Acrylic, automotive parts, fiberglass, garbage cans, laminates, mini-blinds, outdoor furniture, shutters.

Getty Images

1. Make sure it's spotless. Ammonia-based cleaner works well on older plastic surfaces. Newer surfaces tend to be coated with a special protective film; try paint thinner.

2. Rough up surfaces with fine-grit sandpaper. Remove dust and debris with a tack cloth.

3. Prime. (Optional.)

4. Paint.

PORCELAIN & CERAMIC
Think: Brick, bathtubs, flowerpots, lamp bases, servingware, sinks, tchotchkes, tile.

1. Scuff up glaze. Use 80-grit sandpaper. It can be hard to tell if you've removed all traces of slickness, so create "X" shapes on the surface. Start on a diagonal, then cross the just-sanded area again, in the opposite direction. Wipe clean with a tack cloth. (If the object is unglazed -- i.e. terracotta -- go straight to step two.)

2. Apply primer.

3. Start painting. Coat surfaces twice with paint formulated for enamel surfaces.

WOOD
Think: Cork, finished and unfinished pieces, MDF, wicker, wood composite.

1. Remove hardware. If it's not possible, secure and cover anything you're not working on with plastic, newspaper and/or some good painter's tape.

2. Sand and smooth. For smaller pieces, one sheet of medium-to-fine grain sandpaper should do the trick. Consider liquid sandpaper for larger jobs. Repeat as necessary, as you want the smoothest, most scratch-free surface as possible, so paint adheres and the finish dries evenly.

3. Dust, brush or vacuum off residual sawdust. Resist the urge to wipe down the piece with a wet rag; you'll have to wait until it dries.

4. Spray on the primer.

5. Get painting!

For a visual guide, watch this video on spray painting wicker:

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The Right Way to Spray Paint

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-05-26T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

Getty Images

With a can of spray paint and a little elbow grease, you can alter nearly any old object to like-new status in no time...providing it's done right, of course.

But when spray painting goes wrong...let's just say the results are less than appealing. I've been left wishing the rust was back on my metal furnishings more times than I care to admit. Some of the most common spray-painting gaffes include bubbling, runs, poor adhesion, and an irregular or rough surface.

All of these mistakes can be avoided with the right preparation and technique.

Before You Begin
o. Choose the right conditions. Paint in decent weather, in a well-ventilated area -- not in direct sunlight and never when it's hot or humid.
o. Read the directions. Familiarize yourself with safety precautions and manufacturer recommendations.
o. Clean the surface. Dirt can get caught in the paint and make the surface uneven. Be sure the surface is also dry before beginning to paint.
o. Test paint on an inconspicuous surface. This is to be sure you've properly mixed the can's contents. (Are you using the the right color? D'oh!).

While You're Painting
o. Shake the can. First, shake it for two minutes, and then for 10 seconds after each minute of use.
o. Keep the right distance. Stay 10 to 12 inches away from the project for consistent, even coverage.
o. Spray in a sweeping motion. Spray in one direction only (not back and forth) while applying constant pressure, releasing the nozzle after each pass.
o. Apply several thin coats as opposed to one thick coat. This is to avoid runs and drips. Follow the manufacturer's recommended "recoat window," which is the amount of time you'll need to allow an object to dry before giving it another pass. Only reapply once you've waited long enough.
o. Overlap each pass by 1/3 to be sure you haven't missed a spot.

When You're Done
Turn the can over and hold down the spray nozzle for about five seconds, or until paint fails to come out. This prevents the spray valve from clogging, making it possible to reuse the spray paint on another project.

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5 Shortcuts to a Perfect Lawn

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-05-25T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Getty Images

Lawn care is a big responsibility. But what if we told you there are ways to cut corners -- ways that can actually benefit your lawn? These five shortcuts allow you to give your lawn the pampering it deserves, and still have time to soak up the sun.

1. Mow Less Often
Keep grass tall to improve soil's moisture retention (translation: you don't have to mow as often as you probably are!). "Raise your mower's blade to three, even four, inches from now until right after Labor Day," says Paul Tukey, author of The Organic Lawn Care Manual. Taller grass shades soil and blocks weeds like crabgrass from getting sustenance and poking though your luscious lawn. "If crabgrass gets light, it will germinate," he adds.

2. Leave Grass Clippings On the Lawn
Instead of spending time raking up the clippings left over after you mow, leave them there. They'll break down and return precious nutrients to the soil. And you won't need to add as much fertilizer as usual. Better yet, use a mulching mower, which fertilizes the lawn the natural way. It minces cuttings into pieces so small they can still be left on the ground, where they eventually decompose. Just by leaving clippings on the lawn, you're basically fulfilling 25 percent of its fertilizer requirements.

Getty Images

3. Water When You Wake Up
Especially in the hot summer months, watering in early mornings saves you time and energy, and fosters a tougher, more drought-resistant lawn. Water in the afternoon and moisture will just evaporate under the sun's heat. Water at night, and you expose your lawn to bacteria and insects that are attracted by the excess moisture. Go with a sprinkler or irrigation system, which distribute water better than you and the trusty hose.

4. Water Less Often
You may think it's best to water your lawn several times throughout the day, but it's actually a waste of time. The top layer will stay drenched, and the water won't absorb all the way to the roots, says This Old House. It's best to limit watering to three times a week. If you use an automatic sprinkler, invest in a rain gauge to make sure you're not over-watering. If your lawn gets an inch of water in a week from rain alone, that's all it needs; you won't need to run your sprinkler at all.

5. Stop Weeds Before They Start
Few things are as tedious as pulling weeds. Once they take root, weeds multiply fast. The most time-efficient way to keep weeds to a minimum is to prevent them from germinating in the first place. Apply pre-emergent weed control (which works on both warm- and cool-season grass) as early in spring as possible, and mark your calendar to reapply it about 3 months later.

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Boost Curb Appeal: 8 Great Tricks Under $50

Allegra Muzzillo — 2010-05-18T10:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

With all the effort we expend in making the interiors of our homes look passable, sometimes curb appeal -- the way our homes look on the outside -- falls by the wayside.

What if you don't have the budget to revamp your entire facade? Don't sweat it. There are a host of easy, inexpensive DIY fixes that can pump up the volume of an otherwise ho-hum exterior. Here are eight ideas to get you started. Even better? Each one of the following projects costs no more than $50.

Stewf, Flickr

1. Invest in some cool house numbers.
Switch out those tired old digits and give your address a makeover. House numbers can be screwed in or easily glued on with adhesive -- and there's a staggering array of styles and materials to choose from -- check out the vast array of modern house numbers by Atlas Homewares (about $12 to $20 per number). For even more oomph, paint or stain a tall newel post ($25 to $50) the same color as your front door or shutters, then attach some new, stylized numbers and sink it into the ground either at the end of your driveway or near your home's entry. (Best to expect some neighborly copycatting on that one.)

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2. Upgrade the front door hardware.
Basic front door hardware is a cinch to replace. You'll find a wide array of bells, doorknockers and escutcheons (plates surrounding bells, keyholes, knobs) at hardware stores and flea markets (from $5 to $30). A doorbell upgrade (under $30) is also easy, as there's often no need to replace the actual chime -- just the hardware surround. (But if you do want to switch out the entire doorbell, there's only minor rewiring involved.) A kick plate (about $33) -- typically made of polished metals like rustic pewter, aged bronze, or satin nickel -- boosts a door's "wow" factor while shielding it from stains and scuff marks. First, measure the width of your door -- since most are 36 inches wide, you'll need to screw in a plate that's either 6 inches high by 34 inches wide, or 8 inches high by 34 inches wide. Buy one with a clear, rust- and corrosion-resistant finish. Understandably, switching the lockset (about $22 and up) is the most costly change you'll make to the entry, as protection is priority. Sink screws into preexisting holes, or do some bush-league drilling. For a cohesive, stylized look, choose accents with the same finishes, and be sure they're stylistically similar to your home's design.

3. Repaint or stain a wood door.
If you're not ready to spring for a new door, this is the way to go. There's no excuse for the front door looking anything but shipshape because paint and stain are so inexpensive (around $32 per gallon of paint/primer; around $12 for 32 ounces of stain -- or potentially free if you have some lying around). Door and hardware removal comes first (or you can tape around hinges and knobs if you're feeling confident and have a steady hand). Next, surfaces need sanding (fine, 180-grit paper should suffice), dusting, priming and two to three coats of paint. Go with the grain; follow the same procedure with stain and varnish.

Corbis

4. Tidy up the landscaping.
Has your home ever been referred to as Grey Gardens? Time to break out the pruners. It costs little to nothing (except for time clocked) to trim overgrown hedges, edge walkways, pull up weeds and cut out dead growth. Transplanting is free, too: Move those gorgeous dahlias to the front yard, where they're sure to be noticed. Also, clip massive hedges that inhibit views from the inside out. Mulch is another winner: Spread a layer of grass clippings (free, collected from a lawnmower), straw (about $4 per bale at your local garden center or nursery) or tree bark-based mulch (about $12 for 2 cubic-feet at garden centers and nurseries, or sometimes offered for free by your town after it has chipped dead trees) at the bases of trees and flowerbeds. Doing so not only protects plantings and improves soil quality, but beautifies your yard, too. How much will you need? Use an online calculator: just plug in the area's square footage and desired thickness.

The Home Depot

5. Replace light fixtures.
Strategically placed lighting always goes a long way. It highlights lovely landscaping and all the other wonderful things you've done to your home. Size and scale matter here, as does general attractiveness and brightness. (NASA shouldn't be able to see your home from space.) Match the style and finish of the new lights to other elements in your entry and you're generally good to go. Expect to pay about $25 each for brushed copper Flemish-style lights and around $30 for a slick, industrial stainless-steel lantern. You can also opt for solar-powered lights, which have three significant advantages over their hard-wired electric counterparts: There's no assembly required, they save energy and you can move them around with little effort. Sink a few attractive lantern-style lights ($18 for six) into the soil that flanks walkways and the driveway. You'll be amazed at how good this actually makes a home look.

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6. Upgrade the mailbox.
Wobbly, dented mailboxes are unsightly. (Everyone would rather forget about last season's nasty snowplow incident.) Changing the box is a great way to add personality. Installation of a bold door-side mailbox (about $50) requires only some simple drilling. A good-looking, durable freestanding mailbox ($40 to $50) just needs a hole dug for the post.

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7. Dress up (and clean!) those windows.
Good-looking architectural details are no longer prohibitively expensive, or difficult to add on. Mullions, moldings and decorative brackets can really make your exterior pop, and installation is as easy as clicking in a PVC grid (a sample mullion kit costs $22 and covers 12 square-feet of glass) over existing windows, or screwing wooden brackets (about $21 each) into existing structures. Sometimes, the act of simply cleaning the windows -- inside and out -- is all you'll need to massively improve the view. Dish detergent (or plain old vinegar) and a microfiber rag (or a piece of newspaper!) should do the trick. For hard-to-reach windows, use a cleaner formulated for outdoor use (about $10 for 32 ounces at hardware stores) that attaches to your hose. It should dry to a smudge-free finish, and there's no need to remove screens. Just wash on a cloudy, non-windy day, as breezes and sunlight dry panes too quickly, leaving unsightly streaks behind.

8. Wash dirty siding and dingy decking.
You could pressure wash any type of siding (save for wood shingles), but you'll pay upwards of $100 to rent or buy a machine -- and possibly do some major damage in the process. Instead, use some good old elbow grease, your garden hose (on a medium-spray setting), a long-handled scrub brush and a bucketful of water mixed with a few squirts of dish soap. For wood porches and decks, oxygen bleach (about $13 for 56 per container, at supermarkets) is the way to go. Plus, it's nontoxic to you, and to pets and vegetation. Mix a few scoops into a bucketful of water, dip the brush and scrub away.

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