DIY Life

Wall-Mount a TV

Brian Kelsey — 2011-01-31T10:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Holidays, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Gearing up for Super Bowl 2011? There's still time to wall-mount your flat panel TV before game time!

Brian Kelsey

It's the thing you keep saying you're going to do, but somehow you still haven't gotten around to it. So what better time than the week leading up to Super Bowl 2011 to finally wall-mount your flat panel TV?

All you need is a wall mount kit with a bracket that suits the size of your TV (most wall mount brackets come in size ranges) and a drill/driver to mount your TV to standard drywall. I used thick lag screws to secure my TV to wall covered in brick veneer.

Click through the photo gallery as I take you through the step-by-step process, and you'll be prepared for kick back in time for kickoff.

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Wall-Mount a TV

Your new TV is heavy, so before you can hang the bracket to the wall, it's it is essential to find locate studs (vertical framing members inside the wall). You'll want to find one stud to support either end of the bracket. The easiest way is to use an electronic stud finder. The wall I'm mounting my TV to is covered in brick veneer over drywall, and the drywall is attached to studs. Luckily, my stud finder can locate studs through the brick veneer.

Brian Kelsey

Wall-Mount a TV

Use a tape measure to determine at what height on the wall you want your TV's upper bracket to hang. Then mark a spot to drill.

Wall-Mount a TV

Your wall-mount bracket system should come with screws that are appropriate for your wall type. Because I was drilling through brick veneer, I used lag screws.

Wall-Mount a TV

Use a drill bit a little smaller than the lag screw you will be using to attach the mount to the wall.

Wall-Mount a TV

Luckily, the mounting bracket should have many holes lined up horizontally, making it easy for you to line up holes with the studs you locate.

Wall-Mount a TV

Next, attach the mount to the wall by using a socket wrench to tighten down the bolt.

Wall-Mount a TV

With one bolt in the mount, use a level to make sure the mount is even.

Wall-Mount a TV

Then drill and tighten a second lag bolt directly below the first one to secure the bracket into the first stud. Then move onto the second stud, again drilling and securing upper and lower bolts.

Wall-Mount a TV

Flip the TV over, on a blanket, and locate the 4 standardized mounting holes that come with all new flat panel TVs.

Wall-Mount a TV

Attach the brackets to the TV at the holes, and tighten. Make sure they are the right side up, refer to your user manual.

Wall-Mount a TV

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Shower Doors: DIY Buying Guide

Brian Kelsey — 2010-10-12T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Products & Materials

In the market for new shower doors? Here's everything you need to know, from door styles to ease of installation.

(Left) Basco's Classic swinging, frameless shower door. (Right) Basco's Infinity fully framed sliding shower doors. Photo: Basco (2)

Shower doors are an important consideration in your bathroom. Besides comfort and reliability, you want a solid product; something that keeps the water in the shower and not on the floor. Another consideration? Whether or not you're installing them yourself.

Now, the most economical way to keep water in the shower, of course, is to use a simple shower curtain. A tension rod, liner, shower rings and curtain will run you about $60, and you won't even break a sweat. The downside, though, is that water can easily escape to the floor, promoting mold growth and possibly leaking to the ceiling below. Glass shower doors are a more efficient and aesthetically pleasing way to water-seal your shower.

Home improvement stores offer DIY kits; with some careful measurements -- plus a drill, silicon, and a hacksaw, you can install them yourself. It's most important to choose a door (or doors) that fit your shower's opening, so take careful measurements before you shop. If you're installing shower doors over a tub, you're in luck: tub sizes are pretty standard, and it's easy to find shower doors to accommodate them.

Shower enclosures -- like this Thinline model from Basco -- can drive up the price of your shower doors. Photo: Basco

There are many shower door styles on the market. Some shower doors swing out; others slide on tracks. Then there are style considerations too: glass design and thickness, hardware, and track finishes.

Door style will definitely affect the price range for a DIY installation -- it can be anywhere from $100 to $700. Additional factors -- say, your shower door opening is an odd (non-standard) size or you want an actual full enclosure of glass -- will drive up the price further. If luxury is your priority, consider having a custom shower door and/or enclosure built.

We asked a representative for Basco, a leading supplier of stock and custom shower enclosures, 'What's the most important factor when picking out a shower glass door and/or enclosure?'

"Understand the limitations of your existing shower space in terms of mobility, door swing and obstructions," said the rep, who offers a variety of configurations to address these issues, such as rolling doors, French doors and reversible swing doors. "Then determine the design of the product you are interested in. Consider [whether] you prefer an enclosure that is completely framed in aluminum, has a semi-frameless appearance, or [has] a more high-end all-glass frameless style".

Next, the rep recommends selecting the hardware style that best complements your bathroom's style. A good rule of thumb is to match your shower door hardware to the existing hardware in the room: faucets, handles, etc. Finally, select the glass pattern that suits your personal taste or desire for privacy (see a few of Basco popular glass options below).

A few of the glass styles offered by shower door manufacturer Basco. Photo: Basco

We asked the representative for Basco whether a custom shower glass system is a DIY project. "The level of complexity varies with shower enclosures. The framed units are typically more installation-friendly, because the offer more adjustment. As you move up the continuum to frameless doors, the installation becomes more difficult."

Though it might be difficult as a DIY project, there are ways to save money, says our Basco rep. "Utilize professional installation and measurement resources whenever possible. Shower doors are built off of the measurements of the space, including wall and floor conditions -- such as 'out of plumb' or 'out of level.' If improper measurements are submitted and the door is produced to those measurements, it will most likely not fit and will be the customer's responsibility. Also, select an installer that has been factory-trained and certified to insure correct installation and avoid future issues and service calls".

Have you recently bought or installed shower doors? What advice would you give a first-time buyer?

SEE ALSO:
Love It or Hate It? Open Bathrooms (CasaSugar)
How to Replace a Showerhead (DIY Network)

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Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

Brian Kelsey — 2010-10-09T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects

Mildew, cracked tiles, shower scum that won't come off -- all signals that it's time for a complete tile surround makeover in your shower. Tiling your shower takes about a week -- but the results can last for decades. DIY pro Brian Kelsey walks you through the process.

Tiling a shower surround. Photo: Brian Kelsey

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate
TIME: 1 week
TOOLS: Notch trowel, grout float, mixing paddle, drill, 5 gallon bucket, tiling sponge, tile snips, utility knife, level

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Tile a Shower Surround

The key to any tiling project is concentrating on the base: the surface that your tile will adhere to. In most cases, you will want to begin with what we have here, 1/2" concrete backerboard.

Brian Kelsey

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

The key to any tiling project is concentrating on the base: the surface that your tile will adhere to. In most cases, you will want to begin with what we have here, 1/2" concrete backerboard.

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

Apply a waterproof system from Schluter to the entire base. This waterproofing system is an amazing product that I have used for years; it virtually eliminates any chance of water leakage. It starts with a layer of grout on the floor of the shower.

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

...and another layer of grout on the shower walls.

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

First, lay the kit's pre-sloped shower pan on the subfloor.

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

Finish laying the kit's pre-sloped shower pan on the subfloor.

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

From there, waterproof the rest of the enclosure. For complete instructions on this process, click HERE.

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

Once the shower enclosure is waterproofed, it's time for tile!

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

The tile I purchased is very unique from TREND, and eliminates the need for serious pre-layout. This is because it is basically a mosaic tile; small 3/4" square tile meant to look like wallpaper, and it is amazing! It comes in 12x12" sheets that are numbered, so the layout is a snap.

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

Once applied and dry, you simply peel off the plastic, and grout.

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

Because we will be applying the tile to the waterproofing membrane, we will need to use a specific thinset, called un-modified thinset made from Schluter.

Tiling a Shower: DIY Warrior

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DIY Warrior: Installing a Light Fixture

Brian Kelsey — 2010-09-24T16:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Bedrooms, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Save yourself a visit from the electrician and a hefty bill for 5 to 10 minutes of work. Handyman Brian Kelsey demonstrates a common household repair -- installing a light fixture -- and proves that this DIY job is not as intimidating as it seems. We promise!

Brian Kelsey

Face it: not everyone is naturally confident about home repairs. There are so many fixes around the house that can be classified as too minor to call in a professional, but a little too intimidating to DIY. Installing a light fixture is one of them.

It can be hard to find an electrician who will come to your house for a 5- to 10-minute job -- and if you do find one, you'll have to pay an arm and a leg. In the long run, you're better off learning to install a light fixture (or replace one) on your own. In fact, I replaced my son's light fixture the other day. Watch how I did it!

Time: 15 minutes
Difficulty Level: Beginner
Tools: Screwdriver, voltage tester and electrical tape

Tip: Because you will be shutting off power to the room, it's best to do this project in the daytime if possible -- unless you have a portable battery-charged light to illuminate the area. Don't work in the dark!

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Install a Light Fixture

The first and most important thing to do is to shut off the power to the fixture. Either shut it off at the main breaker, or simply turn off the light switch. If you do the latter, remember that electrical is still traveling to the fixture. I would strongly suggest putting a piece of tape over the light switch to prevent an accidental "turn on" by an unaware visitor. (In this case, my 7-year-old son.)

Install a Light Fixture

Once the power is off, disassemble the old fixture. The exact process will vary from fixture to fixture, but generally (and in this example), you'll remove glass cover by simply undoing the screws. This is the easy part.

Install a Light Fixture

Unscrew the old light bulb(s) and set aside.

Install a Light Fixture

Loosen the mounting nuts on the fixture's base plate, and remove the plate.

Install a Light Fixture

With the fixture plate removed, you have unobstructed access to the wires. There should be wire nuts (those red things) connecting the fixture to the wires coming out of the ceiling. Remove the wire nuts.

Install a Light Fixture

Even though you shut the power off, be sure to double check them with a voltage tester before you touch the terminals or wires with your hands or tools. In some cases, the fixture may still be energized for unknown reasons. And I can tell you from experience, getting zapped is no fun.

Install a Light Fixture

Now take your new fixture and locate your black, white and ground wire (ground wire is usually copper). In an ideal scenario, all the three types of wires are present. But in older homes (such as this one) the wires are hard to distinguish -- and there sometimes isn't a ground wire.

The black wire is known as the "hot" wire; it carries electrical current from the circuit to the fixture. The white wire is the "neutral" wire; it carries electrical current away from the fixture. The ground wire is literally connected to the ground and does not carry current; it's there to safely carry current away, should the neutral wire fail or there's some sort of power shortage or malfunction, which would trip the breaker at the circuit panel and immediately shut off the power.

In this case there are two black/whites, the instructions tell us to pigtail them together, and connect them to the corresponding black and white coming from ceiling.

Install a Light Fixture

The new fixture (usually) comes with a mounting bar, which you will need to attach to the screw holes inside the electrical box in the ceiling. If the fixture doesn't come with a mounting bar, buy one separately.

Install a Light Fixture

Now it's time to connect the fixture to the ground. The ground wire leads to the electrical panel; from there it is connected to the ground (literally, the earth) via a grounding rod. The ground wire sends excess or unwanted electrical current away from the fixture back to the earth, where it is safely dissipated. But in our case, there is no ground wire coming from the ceiling.

Install a Light Fixture

In this case, I simply take the copper wire from the new fixture and wrap it clockwise around the green ground screw on the mounting bar. The bar is connected to the metal electrical box in the ceiling, which is itself grounded. Therefore, the fixture becomes grounded too.

Install a Light Fixture

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Dad Inspired Me to DIY

Brian Kelsey — 2010-06-18T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Holidays, Crafts & Celebrations

My dad, Jim, and I building the deck in my current house. Photo: Brian Kelsey

My name is Brian Kelsey, and I am an obsessed DIYer...and it's all because of my dad.

Growing up, it took me a while to realize that there were professional men and women who were actually hired to perform such tasks as laying tile, building cabinetry, and fixing plumbing and electrical problems. Why? Because in my household, my dad took on these roles.

"Helping" my dad build our family room in 1974. Photo: Brian Kelsey

Throughout the 20 years I spent in our small family house, I soaked up all I know today about renovation. Some of my favorite childhood memories involve going to the lumberyard with my dad on weekends. That familiar, wonderful smell of pine still makes a smile as I walk into the very same lumberyard with my young sons.

Okay, I wasn't always such a willing participant. My teen years had their fair share of "I'm too cool to help my dad" moments. One moment in particular stands out: When I was 16 and helping my dad pour a concrete slab for our patio.

Dad was troweling the concrete in the forms while I was wheelbarrowing the concrete from the truck. I got tired of that pretty quickly and left him high and dry for band practice -- while he was left with a truck full of quickly hardening concrete!

Between the driver and my frustrated dad, they were just barely able to get the last bit of concrete off the truck. By the time they got to the last section, the concrete had set so much that it was impossible to smooth it out completely. To this day that section is still as rough as a corn cob. (And you can bet after my article How To Pour Concrete was published here on DIY Life, I got a call from dear old dad!)

Me and my helper -- my son CJ -- in 2004. Photo: Brian Kelsey

As I got older, I appreciated my dad's talents more, and strived to be like him. When I was 23, he came to the house my buddies and I were renting, and built a wall in the basement. I realized how lucky I was to have a dad who would (and could) do that for me. I learned techniques that hot afternoon that I still use every time I put up a wall myself.

Most of my dad's projects were successes -- but there were those not-so-successful endeavors too (case in point: the oak veneer he put up over the kitchen sink back in the 80's; it kept bubbling and peeling off, and was the bane of his existence). I learned from dad's efforts that things don't always turn out the way you planned, and that's okay. Making mistakes is part of DIYing.

Helping my dad build a wall. Photo: Brian Kelsey

These days, my dad and I have our differences when it comes to DIYing. He's had the same pair of pliers for the last 20 years, whereas I have gone through a handful in the past few years alone. In fact, I own more tools at my age than he has owned in his whole life. He still cracks up when he sees me on TV talking about drywall, tiling, or cabinetmaking. It's a generation-renovation gap that I'm sure I'll share with my boys one day. (Oh, and he may not quite understand what a blog is, but he happily reads mine, The Making of A Home Renovation Show.)

These days, I'm a long way from being dad's apprentice...but I'll never forget that I learned it all from him.

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DIY Warrior: How to Pour Concrete

Brian Kelsey — 2010-05-22T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Exteriors & Facades, Patios, Porches & Decks, Living Spaces, Outdoors

Brian Kelsey

Let's face it: concrete takes a beating. Between weather, oil leaks from the car, kids, garbage trucks and the like, eventually you will need to make a repair.

Concrete is made of cement (usually Portland cement) and other forms of crushed rock, gravel and sand. Mixed with water, concrete can be easily spread and molded to fit any area. When it dries, it becomes a rock-hard, durable, fire-resistant surface. But it's not indestructible. Eventually, concrete will succumb to heavy weight and the elements, causing unsightly cracks and erosion.

Luckily, concrete repair inexpensive and it's relatively easy if you know how to mix, pour, and spread concrete properly. I recently patched a damaged area of concrete at the entrance to my garage. Here's how I did it!

Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate
Time: 1 hour

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How to Mix and Pour Concrete

Concrete mix: I used a sand mix by Sakrete, which is specifically designed for covering damaged concrete.
- Bonding agent: This is great for repairs, because it helps the new concrete adhere to the old.
- Wheel barrow: Opt for a heavy-duty one for this job instead of a lightweight garden cart. Concrete is heavy.
- Shovel: I used a pointy spade shovel, which is best for digging, breaking up chunks of material -- and opening the bag of concrete!
- Trowel: I used one just over a foot wide. The more surface area you can cover at once, the easier the job.
- Metal rake: Make sure to use a flat, wide landscaping rake -- not a leaf rake.
- Pressure washer: You can rent a pressure washer from The Home Depot or your local home improvement center. Learn how to use your pressure washer safely here.
- Bucket

How to Mix and Pour Concrete

Here, it's apparent that the entrance to my garage has suffered from years of wear and tear -- parts of the garage's concrete apron have eroded away. But that's to be expected. Considering the weight it bears daily, the garage is a popular spot for concrete repairs.

How to Mix and Pour Concrete

Upon closer inspection, I can see that the erosion has left a gap of a couple of inches (enough for my hand to fit through) at the bottom of the garage door. It's a perfect entrance for small critters -- and cold air in the winter. To create a tight seal between the bottom of the garage and driveway, I am going to have to create a patch that's high enough to meet the bottom of the door when it's closed.

How to Mix and Pour Concrete

First, I needed to thoroughly clean the area and get any loose debris out of the way. The new concrete needs a stable surface to hang on to. I raked away most of the gravel from the area.

How to Mix and Pour Concrete

Then using a power washer, I cleaned the area. (Note to self: Don't wear fancy new white sneakers when working with messy concrete.)

How to Mix and Pour Concrete

There are many different types of concrete, but the right kind for this situation is a sand mix -- a mixture of cement and sand. Sand mix is designed for repairs in concrete up to 2" thick, just like this one.

How to Mix and Pour Concrete

In a wheel barrow, I opened one bag of sand mix and poured it in. Read the label for how much mix you will need for a given thickness and work area size. My situation called for just one bag.

How to Mix and Pour Concrete

Then I grabbed a garden hose and added just a little water at a time. It's better to err on the side of caution; you can't take water away once it's in. To control the amount of water I'm adding, I like to dig a little hole in the mix and fill it with water, then start mixing.

How to Mix and Pour Concrete

It is usually easier to mix with a hoe, but if you don't have one, a spade shovel like I used works just fine for small jobs like this. In addition to the water, I added a bonding agent, which will help the new concrete adhere to the old. You want to mix it to the consistency of chunky peanut butter. Add water as need.

How to Mix and Pour Concrete

I used my spade shovel to fill in the area with concrete. Add scoops of concrete roughly to your desired thickness. You can smooth it out and add or take away as you go.

How to Mix and Pour Concrete

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DIY Warrior: Install a Replacement Window

Brian Kelsey — 2010-05-13T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Living Spaces

Brian Kelsey is a TV personality and licensed contractor. See more of his home improvement adventures on his website, The Making of a Home Renovation Show.

Brian Kelsey

Many of us are drawn to the beauty and charm of an old house. Unfortunately with old homes (and many not-so-old homes) come old windows.

Old windows may give a home distinct character, but they can also leak lots of energy. In recent years, window replacements have come a long way in terms of energy efficiency. Replacing your windows can save you a ton of money on heating and cooling.

What should you look for when shopping for a replacement window? Energy efficiency comes first, so look for low-E glass with with double- or even triple-glazing for maximum insulation. As for the window frame, though wood is available, most homeowners lean towards wood clad window replacements. Wood clad is wood covered in a layer of super-protective aluminum. (PVC clad is another option, but I don't recommend it.)

Also, make sure to keep your window replacement consistent with the rest of the house; if most of your windows are 6-over-6 or 12-over-12 double-hungs for example, stick with that style. There is no eyesore more painful than a big casement window stuck in the middle of 4 double-hungs.

Here, I will be replacing a drafty old 6-over-6 double-hung window with an efficient and authentic-looking 12-over-12 window (this type of window is a staple of antique homes, and rarely used in new construction). The original window was single pane and drafty; the new window is state-of-the-art -- and super energy-efficient -- all the while retaining the charm of the classic 12-over-12 style.

Replacement windows are meant to slide right into an existing window opening, jam and all, with no alteration needed; this is the type of job I'll be demonstrating. Sash replacement windows are just that; replacing the window sash only. A full-frame replacement is the most expensive option and involves pulling out the old window in its entirety down to the studs and replacing everything. If you are unsure how to go about replacing your window, have a window professional come by and give you your options.

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate/Advanced

TIME: 4 hours

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How to Install a Replacement Window

Here's what you'll need to have on hand before you get started:

Replacement window: The average price range for a wood clad window is about $400 to $600
Tape measure
Hammer
Utility knife
Caulk gun
Latex caulk
Putty knife
Screw gun
Chisel
Shims
Minimal expanding foam insulation
Wood filler
Primer
Foam brush
2" screws

How to Install a Replacement Window

Here's a diagram of a double-hung window. Every part of the window has its own specific name -- and there are lots of parts!

How to Install a Replacement Window

One of the most important parts of the job is measuring the window opening. You'll need to measure the width across the top, middle, and bottom, jamb to jamb. You'll use the smallest of these measurements.

Next measure the height from the windowsill, up to the top jam at the left, right and middle; again use the smallest measurement.

You will also need to make sure your window opening is square (all sides are at a perfect 90-degree angle to each other); do this by measuring from inside corner to inside corner on both corners. The two measurements should be equal. Most likely they won't; but as long as they are within about a ¼" you are ok - you'll be able to make that up with shims (slivers of wood). If the numbers are way off, you will have to replace the whole window, down to the studs. When you order your window, give them the exact measurements, and they will size it accordingly (about ¼" smaller all around).

How to Install a Replacement Window

Once you receive your replacement window, it's time to get started on pulling out the old one.

(First, turn on some music; preferably on the loud side. It makes the job just that much more fun.)

Now, pry off the window stops using a putty knife; they hold the window in place.

How to Install a Replacement Window

If the windows are caulked or painted s stuck, use a utility knife to cut them free.

How to Install a Replacement Window

Pull out the bottom sash first.

How to Install a Replacement Window

Then pull out the top sash. Because the bottom sash juts out in front of the top one, the sashes must be removed in this order.

How to Install a Replacement Window

Using a chisel and utility knife, clear out any remaining caulk, wood debris or other obstructions from the channels inside the casing.

How to Install a Replacement Window

Fill any holes with exterior wood putty. You can use your fingers to apply the putty. Let it dry before moving on to the next step.

How to Install a Replacement Window

Prime the whole inside of frame, using your foam brush and exterior primer for maximum weather protection. Some professionals recommend oil-based primer, but water-based primer works just fine. It dries quickly and doesn't give off fumes.

How to Install a Replacement Window

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