DIY Life

Spring Maintenance: How to Use a Pressure Washer

Carolyn Weber — 2010-04-30T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Patios, Porches & Decks, Outdoors

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It's spring! Time to clean up the house and yard and get ready for warm weather and outdoor entertaining. Pressure washing is a fast, easy -- and even kind of fun -- way to blast dirt and mildew off of vinyl siding and layers of muck from decks, driveways, and sidewalks.

You can buy a pressure washer (they start at about $100 for the most basic model and go up to $1,000 for the deluxe versions) or rent one from a local home improvement store. They're powered by either gas (for bigger jobs) or electricity (for smaller jobs), and have special pumps that take water from the garden hose, pressurize it, and force it through a nozzle tip on a handheld spray wand.

It's a messy and potentially hazardous job, so wear old clothes, gloves, safety glasses, and, if you're sensitive to loud noises, earplugs. Attach the washer to the garden hose, tighten all connections, and start it on the lowest setting. The pressure washer will have either an adjustable nozzle or come with a set of color-coded detachable tips that determine the spray concentration.

The most important thing about using a pressure washer is safety. Be sure to read the directions thoroughly before you begin. They're not recommended for use on ladders because the pressure could knock you off your perch. Be sure to shut the washer off when you need to change the spray pattern, then turn it on again. Also never point it at a person or a pet. The water pressure can be so strong that it can potentially penetrate the skin or worse. Read more pressure washer safety tips here.

It takes a few minutes to get used to the machine, so start on the lowest pressure level -- which will put out a wide spray pattern -- and increase the pressure as necessary. For general cleaning, you'll probably need a setting or tip somewhere in the middle.

Stand at least three feet away from the surface you're cleaning, and steer clear of windows, light fixtures, and anything else that could break under the pressure. For siding, start at the top and work your way down the wall. For really dirty jobs, some pressure washers can use detergent. Check the directions to find out which solutions are compatible with your machine. Spray the detergent on with a wide spray setting, let it soak for ten minutes or so, then rinse it off.

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The Daily Fix: Change a Furnace Air Filter

Carolyn Weber — 2010-04-27T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

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Changing the air filter in your furnace regularly is an easy and essential way to maintain your HVAC (heating ventilating and air conditioning) equipment.

During the winter months, when you're running the heat constantly, dust and airborne particles can clog the filter. A dirty filter slows down airflow, which makes the system work harder to heat and cool your house. This translates into a less efficient system and higher energy bills. Filters should be changed at least every three months, or more often if you have allergies or furry pets.

To remove the current air filter:

1. First turn off the power to the furnace.
2. Then look for the filter near the air handler or inside the furnace by the blower. It may have a panel over it that needs to be popped off.
3. Once you locate it, slide the old filter up or out carefully to prevent the dust from going everywhere. Examine it (most are disposable with a cardboard frame) to find the make and size (dimensions are printed on the side) and write it down, or take it with you to the hardware store.

Filtrete Ultra Allergen Reduction Filter can filter even microscopic particles allergens like dust, smoke, smog, and bacteria. Photo: The Home Depot

A new air filter can cost from $4 to $15 depending on the brand and style. The more expensive models have added allergen filtrations or odor absorption. Most big box stores carry them.

In fact, The Home Depot's website has this handy air filter buying guide to help you choose the right size and type of air filter for your HVAC system.

To install the new filter:

1. Simply slide the new filter in, making sure that the airflow arrow (on the top) is pointing in the same direction as the old one.
2. You might want to write the date on he new filter, just so you remember when you replaced it last.

Now you can breathe easily knowing that your filter is producing clean air!

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The Daily Fix: Is Your Toilet Running?

Carolyn Weber — 2010-02-01T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

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No, it's not the beginning of an old prank-call routine. It's a common homeowner dilemma that's annoying, but easily remedied.
I found this out the hard way, when I neglected that loud noise coming from the basement toilet, and was shocked to see that my water bill was about 15 times the usual price -- almost $700! Oops.

Turns out it was a very simple and common problem: the flush valve wasn't closing completely due to a misaligned flapper (that black or red rubber stopper thingy, attached to the arm chain, that opens to let water from the tank into the bowl). I fixed it in a few seconds by realigning the flapper with my hand.

Running toilets can waste 2 to 6 gallons of water per minute (an average new toilet uses just 1.6 gallons per flush). That can add up to thousands of gallons of natural, and financial, resources down the drain.

So if you suspect your toilet is running -- and if you hear a persistent sound of running water coming from the tank, it probably is -- here's what to do:

eszter, Flickr

To diagnose your problem, take the tank lid off, flush, observe how the basic mechanisms work, and watch the cycle. If water keeps rushing into the toilet bowl and the tank is not refilling afterward, the flush valve is not sealing properly.

Turn off the water supply at the toilet's shut-off valve (turn that silver knob where the toilet attaches to the wall), flush the toilet and watch how flapper settles on the valve opening. If it gets stuck in the open position, reach in and close it (don't worry about the tank water, it's clean). If that doesn't work, make sure it's not catching on the flush arm chain.

If the flapper is still not sealing the flush valve, it may be old, crusty, and need to be replaced. Flappers are available at any hardware store. To replace it, shut off the supply line by turning the shut-off valve, drain the tank, pop the old one off, and disconnect it from the flush arm. Then put the new one on and reconnect it. Make sure it aligns properly with the opening, and adjust the chain so that you have about an inch of slack when the flapper is down.

To test it, flush the toilet one last time to make sure the flapper creates a watertight seal with the flush valve.

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