DIY Life

Stock a Garden Shed from Scratch

Christine Richmond — 2010-08-16T11:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Patios, Porches & Decks, Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

If you're a first-time homeowner, then you're probably green in a lot of areas -- such as how to properly care for a backyard garden.

The first step? Stock your shed with the essentials so you'll always have the right tool for whatever job comes up. Here's a list of must-haves to transform your backyard plot into a verdant oasis.

For Snipping and Pruning

Pruning shears: Use these handheld snippers for light jobs like trimming dead leaves from plants. The best shears to buy are the ones that feel most comfortable in your hand and most effortless to operate.

Lawn mower: You know what this is for. Depending on the size of your lawn, a simple manual mower may suffice; on the other end of the spectrum is the tractor mower.

Pruning shears; Lawnmower. Photos: Getty Images; Corbis

Bow saw: Use this tool, with its thin blade and deep teeth, to cut through large branches that may be too thick for your loppers to handle.

Hedge shears: Essentially a big pair of scissors, these make precise cuts, so they're perfect for shaping shrubs.

Chainsaw: You'll only need this if you have big projects to tackle, like removing a tree stump or cutting firewood.

Pruning saw; Loppers. Photos: Getty Images

Loppers: Operate this long-handled tool with two hands to cut through thick branches.

Pruning saw: A good substitute when you don't want to use a chainsaw, pruning saws usually have fine teeth on one side (for small branches) and bigger teeth on the other side (for large branches). They're compact, so they can squeeze into tight spaces, like the tangles of an overgrown shrub.

For Digging and Prepping Soil

Shovel: You'll use this to move soil around-more important than size or shape is choosing one that's comfortable to grip.

Spade: This is essentially a shovel with a squared-off end-it's good for smoothing soil and edging work, and it also breaks through tough roots.

MCT

Hoe: A basic hoe has a square blade attached to a long handle; you'll use it to help cultivate (till) the soil.

Steel rake: The short tines on this rake are perfect for smoothing flower beds.

Thatching rakes: If your garden has patches of unhealthy grass (known as thatch), this rake will pull it up relatively effortlessly.

Trowel: This handheld tool has a scoop-shaped blade that's essential for digging holes and dividing plants.

Garden fork: This tool looks exactly like you'd expect it to -- like an oversized fork. Use it to turn and aerate soil and to pull up stubborn roots and rocks.

For Yard Maintenance

Leaf rakes: A classic yard tool, you'll use this to gather up dead leaves, grass clippings, and the like.

Wheelbarrow: You'll use this to lug yard waste, compost, mulch, plants -- pretty much everything.

Getty Images

Hand weeder: This handheld tool, with its sharp pointed tip, will give you the advantage when it comes to uprooting pesky, pervasive weeds.

Edger: Available in manual and electric versions, these long-handled tools allow you to make a neat border where turf meets your driveway.

For Watering

Garden hose: An absolute essential, you'll use this to keep your lawn and plants watered-and maybe to cool down the kids and the dog on a scorching summer day.

Corbis

Sprinklers: There are many different styles available depending on your lawn size and needs.

Watering can: This is great for small jobs when you'd rather not lug out the hose.

Accessories

Utility knife: Keep this handy to open bags, cut twine, and for other odd jobs.

Gloves: Keep your hands and fingernails clean and protect them from thorns, poison ivy, etc.

Note: You may also want to stock up on fertilizer and pesticides -- either chemical or natural -- and a spreader to dispense them. But it's best to start gardening first to learn what your specific needs will be.

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Eliminate the Top 10 Household Odors

Christine Richmond — 2010-08-10T08:58:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Living Rooms, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Vincent Abbey, Alamy

Have certain areas of your home been smelling a little funky lately? Here are the most common household offenders, and how to eliminate them.

The warm, sometimes humid weather of early fall is the perfect breeding ground for the mold and bacteria that cause most household odors. Rather than covering up your stinky garbage pail, stale upholstery, or musty basement with a room spray, try these techniques to tackle the root of the problem.

AFP/Getty Images

1. Cigarette smoke in upholstery and carpet
The smell of cigarettes lingers in carpet and furniture fibers long after the smoke clears. Sprinkle baking soda over the offending surface, let it sit for several hours, and clean it up with a HEPA vacuum, which traps small particles. If odor lingers, take a day to deep clean your carpet or upholstery; you can rent a Rug Doctor machine in your area. Then take preemptive measures: ban smoking inside the house.

Corbis

2. Garbage can odor
After a while, even throwing out the garbage every day isn't enough to eliminate the odor of rotten perishables; the smell clings onto the can itself. Toss whatever is in your garbage and give the trash can a good scrubbing inside and out with a disinfectant cleaner. If you'd rather use natural methods, clean the can with your favorite eco-friendly cleaner and then deodorize it by spraying it with white vinegar. Let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe clean. If your trash can requires more desperate measures, bring it outside, spray it down with detergent, and spray it thoroughly with a garden hose. To prevent odors in the future, clean your pail at least once a month and consider switching to garbage bags that block odor from seeping out. Pour perishable items into a smaller sealable plastic bag before tossing them out, and take the garbage out more frequently.

3. Garbage disposal odor
Are offending odors rising from the depths of your sink? Pour white vinegar down the disposal, or freeze it into ice cubes and let the disposal chop them up. Or try this solution for cleaning the garbage disposal with oxygen bleach. If you're not feeling particularly inspired, you can just pick up a cleaner specifically designed to freshen garbage disposals. To stave off smell in the future, flush the garbage disposal with soap and hot water after every use.

Corbis

4. Refrigerator odor
You guessed it -- that old standby, baking soda, is the best offense when it comes to fridge odors. But if you still sense that something's awry, try doubling up with some activated charcoal, available at home and bath stores. Routinely check your fridge for expired or spoiling food, and give the interior a good wipe down with soap and water every week or so.

5. Coffee pot odor
The smell of freshly brewed coffee may be inviting, but the lingering scent it leaves behind is a wake-up call that your coffee pot needs cleaning. Fill the pot with one part white vinegar to two parts water, then pour this solution into your water reservoir and turn the coffee maker on. If you have a reusable mesh filter, leave it in, but otherwise you don't need a filter. Let the vinegar go through an entire cycle in the coffee pot. You may want to open a window to dissipate the scent of vinegar (it will eventually die down). Once the solution is done brewing, dump it out, let the coffee maker cool, and repeat the process. Then do two brews of water only. Lastly, wash your pot with dish soap and rinse it well with water.

Getty Images

6. Pet odor
Air out your furniture if you can (putting it in the sun for a bit may help zap some of the odor naturally). Then vacuum it carefully using a machine with a HEPA filter (it's designed to trap small particles). You may also need a cleaning product like Nature's Miracle, designed to remove pet odors; check your local pet store.

Corbis

7. Dishwasher odor
Can't figure out where that kitchen odor stems from? Check your dishwasher: this appliance can hold on to odors of dinners past even when it looks clean. Run the machine while it's empty, using two cups of white vinegar instead of detergent. In the future be extra vigilant about scraping dishes before loading them into the machine, especially if you know they'll be sitting there for a while (or if the weather is particularly swampy).

8. Mildew odor in the bathroom
Mildew thrives in moist environments like bathrooms and basements. The best solution is to open all windows on a dry day and run a dehumidifier. Use the exhaust fan -- or an oscillating fan -- to circulate the air. Remove damp towels, rugs, and shower curtains and run them through the laundry. The best (albeit not the most pleasant) way to eradicate that mildew smell is by mixing equal parts bleach and water and spraying down your bathroom tiles (be sure to wear protective gloves and a dust mask). Prevent buildup of mildew by drying off the stall after every shower.

9. Musty drawer odor
There are eight very efficient ways to remedy a musty drawer. Our favorite? Sprinkle baking soda into your drawer and let it sit for at least a few hours (or a few days, if you can). Then vacuum it up. If odor still lingers, try cleaning the drawer with Murphy's Oil Soap (our second favorite).

Corbis

10. Compost odor
Healthy compost should smell like soil, not rotting food. Ideally, microbes will break down your scraps before they decompose. If your compost has a foul odor, turn your pile to aerate it (you should be doing this once a week anyway), and mist it with water: this will create an ideal environment for the microbes to work. And be sure to layer "green" items like vegetable peels with items like dead leaves to keep levels of carbon and nitrogen (which microbes feed on) balanced.

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Home Ec: Remove Sweat Stains

Christine Richmond — 2010-07-16T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Dynamic Graphics

The dog days of summer are here, and for most of us, that means sweat stains-on our tee shirts, hats, and even on our couches.

Sweat stains are usually the result of perspiration and body oils mixing together. Those pesky yellow underarm stains form when your sweat combines with the aluminum in your antiperspirant. Tackling sweat stains early is the best way to banish them. Here are some techniques to try.

REMOVING SWEAT STAINS FROM CLOTHING

Washable Fabrics (Cotton, linen, nylon, polyester, etc.)

Whites
Clothes made from durable, light-colored fabric can handle the most aggressive treatments -- which is helpful, since sweat stains are the most noticeable on white garments. Try pretreating the stain with detergent or a stain remover like Spray 'N Wash or OxiClean and a soft-bristled toothbrush. If that doesn't work, try soaking the stain in a mixture of half water, half hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes.

Here are a few other techniques you can try:

Aspirin: Crush two aspirin tablets and mix with ½ cup water. Soak the stain in this solution for two to three hours.
Baking soda: Make a paste from 4 tablespoons baking soda and 1/4 cup water and rub it directly into the sweat stains. Leave it on the stain for up to two hours before laundering.
Ammonia: Spot treat the stain by dabbing it with a solution of half water, half ammonia.

After treating the stain with your method of choice, launder the garment using an enzyme-based liquid laundry detergent, such as Wisk or Tide.

Colors
If your sweat stains are light, try the pretreating method above: a stain remover like Spray 'N Wash or OxiClean and a gentle scrubbing of the treated area with a soft-bristled toothbrush. Then launder in an enzyme detergent. If the garment emerges from the wash with the stains intact, try ammonia or baking soda using the instructions above; just be sure to do a colorfastness test an inconspicuous area first to make sure these ingredients don't remove the dye.

Tip: Don't tumble dry or iron a garment until you're sure the stain has come out-heat will set perspiration stains, making them near-impossible to remove.

Delicate Fabrics (silk, wool, rayon)
Stain removers and enzyme detergents can damage delicate fabrics. For the most part, it's best to shell out the money and have a dry cleaning professional tackle sweat stains in rayon or silk blouses, cashmere sweaters, and the like. But if your garment is machine washable and you want to DIY it, try treating the stain with a solution of white vinegar and water (about two tablespoons of vinegar per cup of water). Gently work the solution into the stain with a soft cloth (if your clothing is wool, you can soak the stain in the vinegar water for about 30 minutes, but silk and rayon should not be left to soak, because water can leave a mark on these fabrics) and launder following the instructions on the tag. You can also try pretreating the stain in the detergent you'll use to wash the garment.

Tony Latham, Getty Images

REMOVING SWEAT STAINS FROM UPHOLSTERY
When in doubt about treating a stain on furniture, call a professional cleaner; being too aggressive could leave your sofa or chair with an even bigger mark than the one you started with. Having said that, here are some techniques to try:

Microfiber
Many microfiber sofas have removable covers that can be machine-washed. If that's the case with yours, follow the stain removal instructions above for washable color laundry. Otherwise, try spot treating the stain with mild detergent or diluted white vinegar.

Leather
Wash the area using a soft sponge or cloth and a small amount of leather soap or baby shampoo and water (don't soak the leather). Then press the area with a dry cloth to soak up excess water. If this doesn't work, try treating the stain with a solution of 3 parts water and 1 part white vinegar (test in an inconspicuous area first). Rub the mixture over the stain with a sponge or soft cloth and then dab the area dry.

Suede
Use a dry soft-bristled brush on the stain to prep the fibers and remove any debris. Dampen a cloth with just water and lightly dab the stain. If this doesn't remove the stain, dip the cloth in a mixture of 1 tablespoon white vinegar and 1 cup of water and gently work it into the stain. (Test an inconspicuous area first, for colorfastness.) Follow with a dry microfiber cloth to absorb any excess water. A suede cleaning kit may also do the trick.

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What Do You Think About While DIYing?

Christine Richmond — 2010-07-09T08:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Corbis

Repetitive motions like housework, crafting, building, and fixing are a great way to focus the mind -- or clear it into a meditative state. Maybe you think up your best ideas while you work, or a solution to a problem that's been irking you. We asked a few DIYers what they think about while they work.

When tackling a project like upholstering a headboard, Grace Bonney's mind always wanders to the same two topics: her dream home and her family. The curator of the popular home décor and DIY site Design*Sponge says, "I'll pick up some fabric and start to daydream about how I'd use it as a dramatic curtain to separate the living room and the screened-in porch of my imaginary house." (Grace actually lives in an apartment in Brooklyn, New York). As her tasks near completion, Grace often thinks of her mother, an avid home decorator. "She inspired me to pursue a career in design. When I'm working on a project, I sometimes feel like I'm channeling her abilities."

It's well-known that working with your hands is, for many, a way to unwind and help your mind focus, work through problems and hone ideas. It doesn't matter whether you're cleaning, crafting, building, fixing -- any rhythmic, repetitive motions can act as a form of meditation. And while you're in that trance-like state, which Harvard doctor Herbert Benson, M.D. coined "the relaxation response," you tap into the parts of your brain responsible for learning, creativity, and insight. In fact, recent research from the Mayo Clinic found that people who engage in DIY activities like knitting are 30 to 50 percent less likely to experience memory loss.

For Jenny Hart, owner of the hip embroidery pattern company Sublime Stitching in Austin, Texas, DIYing is a form of stress releif. "I first tried embroidery during a very difficult time in my life: my mother was diagnosed with breast cancer, my mother-in-law passed away unexpectedly, and my father was hospitalized," Jenny recalls. "I thought I wouldn't have the patience for embroidery, but when I finally gave it a try, I felt my entire world slow down. My body relaxed and my mind became calm and focused." Jenny found stitching so soothing that she began doing it for 3-4 hours every day.

DIY Life contributor and home improvement professional Brian Kelsey works on building and repair projects in the evening hours while his young children are sleeping, "which allows my my mind to wander, and settle," he says. To Brian, the act of working with his hands -- focusing on creating crisp paint lines or perfectly mitered joints -- is in itself meditative. "You simply aren't able to think about the mortgage [that's] due, your cranky boss, or whatever other stress you have in your life."

** How about you? What crosses your mind while you're working at home? Do you come up with new ideas? Sort out problems? Recall something you forgot to do? Feel most at ease? We want to know -- tell us in the comments below! **

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Price Patrol: Refinishing a Deck

Christine Richmond — 2010-05-31T08:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Patios, Porches & Decks, Outdoors

Zepfanman.com, Flickr

Your deck is where you go to relax and entertain. Regular maintenance -- including cleaning, sanding and staining -- will keep this outdoor spot in top shape.

Staining a deck doesn't require any special skills or advanced equipment (except perhaps a pressure washer), but you will need to work slowly and methodically if you want professional-looking results.

Do you have the patience to give your deck a makeover? Or is this a task best left to the pros? To decide, let's take a look at the logistics and costs of each option.

WHAT'S INVOLVED?
Staining a deck isn't an advanced project, but it is labor-intensive. To get an even finish, you need clean, smooth, dry wood. That means you first have to prep the deck by sanding down rough patches and tightening loose screws or nails. Then, if your deck has old stain on it, you'll need to apply a stain stripper, followed by a wood brightener. From there, you'll need to thoroughly clean the deck (very grungy decks may require a pressure washer) and leave it to dry for 48 hours or so. Then you'll apply stain.

HIRE-IT-OUT APPROACH
Most experts recommend one thorough deck cleaning each year, an application of sealant every two years or so (whenever drops of water stop beading up on the wood), and new stain when the old one has weathered -- anywhere from 3 to 8 years. If this sounds something you'd rather leave to professionals, be aware that the cost varies widely. You can expect to pay anywhere from $.50-$7 a square foot depending on the amount of cleaning and repair work that needs to be done (and how many tiny spindles and other architectural details your deck has). Some contractors put together "deck restoration" packages and charge a flat fee; prices for an average deck start around the $500-$700 mark but can easily top out at $1,000 or more.

DO-IT-YOURSELF APPROACH
If you're ready to spend your weekend working hard, you can absolutely refinish your own deck and save lots of money. Here's what you'll need to DIY this project:

Tool Rentals

Pressure washer: If your deck is very moldy or dirty, this device can make cleaning far easier. You can purchase or rent a pressure washer from a home improvement store like The Home Depot for between $40-$200. Be sure to follow the instructions and use the recommended settings; this washer is potent enough to cause damage to soft woods (not to mention your fingers).

Tool & Material Purchases

These items can all be found at hardware or home improvement stores.

Wood stain: Price varies by brand and the amount of coverage you need.

Sandpaper: $3-$11 depending on grit. If you'll be sanding large areas, get a pole sander for about $20.
Broom: You probably already have one; if not, it'll run you about $10 to $25.
Scrubber brush: Use this to tackle grimy spots. $5.
Deck cleaning solution: Removes mildew, dirt, and stains. About $15-$18, although price varies by brand.
Stain stripper: Gets rid of old stain or residue, ensuring an even surface for new stain. About $25, although price varies by brand.
Wood brightener: Neutralizes stain stripper, refreshes wood, and helps prep the surface for stain. About $40, although price varies by brand.
Garden sprayer: Often used to apply stripper and wood brightener, although a large paintbrush can also be used. $12-$90 depending on the size you want.
Garden hose: To rinse the various solutions you'll apply during cleaning and prepping; you probably already have one kicking around, but a new one will run you about $25.
Several 4" paintbrushes: To apply deck cleaner and stain. $10 to $25.
Trim brush: To apply stain to spindles and hard-to-reach areas. About $15.
Paint rollers and extension pole. Prices vary by brand but this should run you about $10 and $20, respectively.
Paint tray: About $6 for a pack of three.
Safety glasses: $5-$20
Latex gloves: $5 or less per package.

So, are you ready to do-it-yourself...and save?

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Price Patrol: Installing Crown Molding

Christine Richmond — 2010-05-21T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Living Rooms, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces

tsuacctnt, Flickr

Crown molding adds dimension and character to a plain wall -- and it can increase the value of your home, too.

Crown molding comes in an array of materials, from pricey plaster (which is custom-made and tricky to install) to traditional wood (which requires carpentry skills) to low-cost polystyrene foam (which is so lightweight, it can be cut with a simple handsaw-or even a pair of scissors).

Unlike many home improvement projects, installing crown molding doesn't require much special equipment. But it does take ample amounts of patience and precision; perfect measurements are the key to great results.

Is this a project best left to the pros? Or do you think you're ready to take on the task yourself? To decide, let's take a look at the logistics and costs of each option.

Outer and inner compound miter joints. Photo: tornatore, Flickr

HIRE-IT-OUT APPROACH

Although installing crown molding doesn't require any technical expertise or unusual equipment, solid spatial reasoning skills are essential, as is a calm attitude. But that's not all: Pieces of crown molding have to be fitted together at angles for perfect compound miter joints. This is even more challenging if your walls and ceilings don't happen to meet at perfect 90 degree angles (most don't). The right -- or wrong -- angles can make or break the project. Unfortunately, this aspect alone is enough to intimidate many homeowners into hiring a professional. Confidence using a miter saw -- which is necessary to cut the correct miter joints -- is also necessary.

Contractors typically charge per linear foot of molding, although some may offer a flat rate per room. Expect to spend anywhere from $4 to $20 per foot depending on the type of molding you've selected (it's far less complicated to hang simple foam molding than an ornate wooden design). On average, a 10x10 room will run you about $500 for labor alone -- this doesn't include the cost of the molding itself. Contractors may charge additional fees to paint the molding or do cleanup.

DO-IT-YOURSELF APPROACH

Regardless of any hesitation you might have, you absolutely can install your own crown molding -- even if you're not super handy.

Getting pieces of molding to fit together tightly may require doing a few practice cuts until you get the angle of the miter joints just right (a protractor is your tool of choice for achieving the proper angles). If your molding is made of solid wood, medium density fiberboard (MDF), or another dense material, you'll need to cut it on a miter saw -- and most experts think the easiest way to make cuts is to place the molding upside down on the saw. If you're not meticulous, it's easy to lose track of which end is up.

It also takes a practiced eye to select molding that's the appropriate width for the height of your walls; otherwise, you can throw off the proportions of the room.

Here's what you'll need to DIY this project:

Home Depot

Tool Rentals:

Miter saw: Depending on the type of molding you select, the one big tool you'll need is a miter saw, which makes precision cuts. You can rent a miter saw from a home improvement store like The Home Depot for about $45/day. An avid woodworking friend may also have one you can borrow. If you're not comfortable using a power saw, stick to a material like polystyrene foam that can be cut with a hand saw (some can even be cut with scissors).

Tool & Material Purchases:

Coping saw (optional): If you know what you're doing and want to add curves or other decorative touches to your moulding, you'll need one of these woodworking essentials, which will run you between $5-$15 or so at a hardware store.

The rest of what you need you may already have:

Hammer: A quality one will be about $25 to $35.

Finishing nails: $5 for a package of 320 nails.

Sandpaper: About $3 to $11 depending on grit.

Protractor: Use this to get actual measurements of corner angles. $5 to $25.

Power drill: Use this to make pilot holes before pounding in the nails; this protects molding from splitting. About $100 to $200 -- or you could borrow one from a friend.

Stud finder: You want to nail molding into wall studs, and this tool will help you locate them. Best to invest in a good one for $20 to $40.

Putty: Use DAP white putty to fill nail holes. $5.50 per tub.

Putty knife: $3 to $7.

Joint compound: This is only needed if you'll be installing lightweight foam moulding. You'll use the joint compound to adhere the pieces of molding together. $7 to $15 per tub.

Primer and paint: If you'll be painting the molding. Price will vary by brand.

So...are you ready to do it yourself -- and save?

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