DIY Life

Pumpkins & Gourds - Unusual Uses

Diane Rixon — 2010-11-16T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Essential Skills, Holidays, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Additional reporting by Cheryl Thompson

Take advantage of fall's harvest. From organically shaped birdhouses to accent lamps, there are lots of ways you can use gourds and pumpkins inside and outside your home.

Colin Purrington, Flickr

Celebrate fall with great pumpkin and gourd DIY projects. Photo: Getty Images

Pumpkins and gourds: we carve, bake, and puree them and even toast their seeds for tasty snacks. But DIYers know that the fruits of fall have plenty of uses that go beyond the kitchen. So grab a basketful of yellow, green, orange and brown gourds from your local supermarket or farmer's market (there are an abundance this time of year) and think outside the, um, organically shaped vessel!

From birdhouses to serving bowls, there are many inventive ways to use pumpkins and gourds in and around the home. Celebrate the season with these great, inexpensive projects:

Photo: Colin Purrington, Flickr

GOURD BIRDHOUSES AND ACCESSORIES
Pumpkins and gourds can be fashioned into all sorts of objects once hollowed out and dried. When properly coated with a preservative, gourds prove to be almost as tough as plywood and can can last up to 30 years. With this kind of durability, you can turn them into bird feeders, fun decorative accents, as well as real, functioning birdhouses for nesting yard birds like wrens. You'll first want to wash the gourd thoroughly to remove dirt and mildew, and wait for the surface to dry. The American Gourd Society suggests using acrylic paint and acrylic brushes.

Photo: MarthaStewart.com

GOURD LIGHTS, LAMPS AND LIGHTING
Here's a bright idea: turn a gourd into a chic accent lamp with a light kit available at most hardware and craft stores. With this kit, you can construct a traditional table lamp or shoot for a festive luminary. Go beyond the table and use gourds as hanging outdoor lights to illuminate the night sky. Simply cut a hole at the top and bottom of a gourd that's wide enough for a lightbulb and the bulb's socket to fit into via a globe light set.

PUMPKIN AND GOURD YARD DISPLAYS
For your fall front yard display, try making a pumpkin man or a gourd ghost. Celebrate the season with a festive autumn wreath by wiring miniature pumpkins into a round form and hanging on your front door. Cap the wreath with a black bow for a spooky accent or a burgundy sash for a decor piece that will last all season long.

PUMPKIN PLANTERS
Hollow out pumpkins for your own decorative gourd planters.

GOURD BOWLING PINS
Use white spray paint (and colored paint for the stripes) to turn 10 gourds into something they actually resemble quite clearly: a set of bowling pins. Grab a round gourd to use as a bowl; even a baseball or tennis ball with do.

Photo: Blisstree

PUMPKIN AND GOURD CANDLE HOLDER
Small pumpkins can easily be carved into simple candle holders for your Thanksgiving table. Combine a mix of gourd candle holders for an easy autumn display.

Photo: Young House Love

PUMPKIN AND GOURD VASES
Sculpt pumpkins and squashes into vases for your festive floral arrangements. Cut out the tops with a sharp knife and hollow out the insides for inexpensive, shapely vases.

PUMPKIN GOURD BOWLS
Fall will come and go, but make your seasonal pumpkin last forever in the form of chic dishware. Larger pumpkins can be hollowed out, dried, and used as serving bowls. You can carve and stain them for rustic autumn decor, or achieve a modern ceramic look with high-gloss paint. The gloss paint will help your bowls appear fresh and in-season all year long.

PUMPKIN AND GOURD CENTERPIECES FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS
Fall brides and groomsmay consider an autumn wedding with pumpkin decorations. Gourds can be used as colorful aisle markers and table centerpieces. Come Thanksgiving, make a great impact with easy-to-make pumpkin and gourd table arrangements. For creative floral displays, hot-glue yellow and orange mums all over pumpkins.

Photo: Young House Love

SPRAY-PAINTED PUMPKINS AND GOURDS
You don't have to be a carving expert to create a pumpkin masterpiece. Sky's the limit when it comes to painting pumpkins or gourds for seasonal decorations. Spray paint a mix of gourds in different shapes and sizes glossy white, metallic gold or in glitter hues to create a glamorous work of art. Use the gourds to decorate your table or as accent displays around the house.

GOURD FASHION AND MORE
Think you're a gifted gourd carver? Try some advanced projects, such as handcarved gourd shoes or a handy gourd purse. You can even fashion drums and shakers for a homemade music session.

SEE ALSO:
Carving Tools: A Thanksgiving Guide
Kid-Friendly Thanksgiving Centerpieces (Shelterpop)
Corn Crafts for Your Table (Holidash)

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Workshop Organization Tips

Diane Rixon — 2010-08-02T08:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Storage & Organization, Know-How, Outdoors

mtneer_man, Flickr

Do you need five minutes to locate a measuring tape and even longer to find a screwdriver? If so, you might be due for a workshop overhaul.

Fortunately, it's pretty easy to keep tools and hardware in working order once you have a good, efficient organizational system in place. Let's take a look at some tried-and-true ways to sort your stuff for a frustration-free workshop.

SMALL HAND TOOLS: HAMMERS, SCREWDRIVERS & OTHER ESSENTIALS

Tools like specialty screwdrivers, ratchet sets, hand saws (including large carpentry saws, small coping saws and all-purpose hacksaws), files and rasps, mallets and sledges, and levels need a permanent yet convenient storage spot close to your workstation. Wall-mounting them is definitely the best way to keep them organized but also within arm's reach. This can be as simple as a piece of pegboard screwed to the wall and equipped with easy-hang pegboard hardware. Alternatively, you could install a slat wall system that allows you to slide tools up and down to wherever you need them. Or you might opt for simple homemade shelving or kitset shelving.

Portable Tool Storage
Every DIYer needs a tool box or other portable container for toting essential gear around (and out of) the house. Most would define the following small hand tools as essentials: a standard claw hammer, screwdrivers, vise grips, pliers, a crescent wrench and a retractable measuring tape. Of course, the exact contents of your portable tool carrier will vary depending on the types of work you do.

Ace Hardware

The standard tool box is a top choice for most homeowners. They are tough and come in all price ranges -- a very basic plastic tool box costs as little as $8, while lockable truck boxes can cost hundreds. Other options include soft-sided fabric tool bags, buckets and totes.

For hands-free repairs, nylon, canvas or leather tool belts are a big help - and, no, you don't have to be a professional tradesman to wear one. Even the smallest tool belts include pockets for a few basic tools plus pouches for a handful of nails, anchors or other hardware items. Magnetic tool belts keep nails and screws from slipping out, while allowing for storage of metal tools on the outside of the belt. Snap one around your waist and you'll find it saves you (and your back) a lot of bending on your next project.

HARDWARE: NUTS, BOLTS & OTHER FASTENERS
Stackable drawer organizers can't be beat for keeping fasteners and other small items separate yet contained. We're talking nuts, bolts, nails, tacks, washers, drywall anchors and so on: all those little odds and ends that are forever getting mixed up or misplaced.

Open plastic mini bins are good for those on a budget. But here's the downside: they are easily overturned and they won't protect items from dust, dirt and moisture. compartments are a better option for most workshops. Look for sets with clear plastic drawers so you can identify contents at a glance. Even better, label each drawer for doubt-free reference.

Akro hardware storage cabinet. Photo: Amazon

Position small storage compartments like these on, above or beside your workbench for easy access. If you place them on a shelf, try screwing them down with mounting hardware for extra stability. In fact, mounting hardware often comes included with these units.

Craftsman

POWER TOOLS: DRILLS, SANDERS, SAWS & MORE
Cordless drills, circular saws, sanders, routers and other power tools should be stored at waist or chest height. Basically, you want them high enough to save you lots of bending and lifting, but low enough they couldn't topple off a shelf and hit you -- or someone else -- on the head. Aim to stash them on shelves right under or adjacent to your workbench, either in cabinets or in specialty tool storage units.

Expensive metal storage units include rolling tool carts by manufacturers like Craftsman and Kobalt. The first choice of serious DIYers, metal storage units can be very expensive. On the other hand, they're sturdy and long-lasting, and are usually designed to be mixed and matched for maximum usability. When kept locked they do keep power tools clean and dry, not to mention safely out of the hands of curious kids.

If you can afford them, they're a good investment. However, cheaper alternatives abound and include plastic or wooden kitset cabinets or sturdy open shelving.

ROPE, CORDS, CABLES & MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS
Stow bulky coiled items like wire, rope, extension cords and electrical cables in all-purpose plastic storage bins or stacking crates. Place all other tools, hardware and accessories you use least often in here, too. They'll remain easily accessible yet won't take up any of that precious shelf or cabinet space.

Small light-duty plastic bins or totes are also well worth having around. They are inexpensive and ideal for corralling smaller, miscellaneous items like sandpaper, duct tape, twine, batteries, light bulbs and paintbrushes. They generally come with matching lids and are both stackable and see-through for fast ID of contents.

LIQUIDS: PAINT, CAULK & TOXIC CHEMICALS
Keep gallon-size paint cans on a low shelf where they can't fall down and break your toe. But the general rule for all other liquids -- and anything else kids might be tempted to ingest -- is to place them either up as high as possible or in a locked cabinet. This includes tubes of caulk and putty, and goes double for anything toxic with a screw-on/off cap such as mineral spirits, lubricants like WD-40 or cleaning products like Goof-Off.

LADDERS, SAWHORSES & OTHER BULKY OBJECTS
One key way to maximize your workspace is to get large, bulky objects like ladders and sawhorses up and out of the way. Fold them flat when not in use and, if possible, find a place to hang them up on the wall. Ladder hooks, for example, are inexpensive and well worth buying. Just remember they should be screwed into a wall stud, exposed ceiling joist or similar sturdy anchoring point for maximum stability.

Budget Tip: You don't have to invest in specialty storage equipment for hardware or for tools. Recycled glass pickle or jam jars work just fine for containing nails and other hardware, while old cabinets and bookshelves can be repurposed in the garage for tool storage. Bottom line: you don't have to break the bank to get organized!

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5 Organization Ideas for the Garage

Diane Rixon — 2010-04-20T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Storage & Organization, Know-How, Living Spaces

Tripping over mountains of garage clutter? Well, take heart, you're definitely not alone. Most garages have become catch-all storage zones, housing home improvement supplies like tools and paint, yard and garden necessities, recreational gear, and trash and recycling bins. Add bulky seasonal items like holiday lights and yard decorations to the mix and it's no wonder the family car no longer fits!

The good news is you probably do have room for all that stuff; it's just a matter of corralling each item according to type. Need help? Here are the five most common garage storage conundrums -- plus space-saving solutions. You'll wonder how you ever lived without these must-have products!

Solve a multitude of storage problems with adjustable shelving, like The Container Store's popular elfa shelving systems. Photo: The Container Store

Problem 1: Too many tools, not enough shelves.
Solution: Wall-mounted, adjustable shelving.

Your collection of home improvement supplies has expanded, but chances are your garage's shelving capacity has not kept pace. You know what I mean: a jumble of hand tools and power tools all vying for space with other essentials -- painting and caulking supplies, lubricants and engine oils, light bulbs and so on.

Consider upgrading to a wall-mounted shelving system. The beauty of these systems is that they are super-durable yet also adjustable. Best of all, you can add on to them and customize as your needs change. Take Rubbermaid's FastTrack system. The wall-mounted brackets are permanent, but sliding hooks and shelves allow you to store what you want where you need it most. The Container Store's elfa line of steel garage shelving (pictured above) is, likewise, built to last but designed with flexible configuration in mind.

Photo: Rubbermaid

Problem 2: One too many rakes and brooms.
Solution: Long-handled tool tower or rack.

Does reaching for a broom mean fighting off an avalanche of other long-handled cleaning and garden implements? If so, get yourself a tool tower designed to store anything long-handled.

Mops, brooms, hoes, shovels and rakes can all be conveniently contained in a sturdy free-standing holder like the Rubbermaid Deluxe Tool Tower (pictured). If space is at a premium, try to get them up off the floor entirely with a wall-mounted device like the Racor Garden Tool Storage Rack.

This ceiling-mounted bike lift is a winning space saver. Photo: Racor Inc.

Problem 3: Bicycles constantly underfoot.
Solution: Ceiling-mounted bike lift.

If struggling to keep your family's bicycles in an upright position is routine for you, let me introduce an easy solution: Racor Inc's ceiling-mounted bike lift. This popular device lets you reclaim precious floor space, yet still allows easy access to your wheels when needed. Alternatively, pick up a simple bike hook that screws into the ceiling or an exposed ceiling joist.

A freestanding bike rack is worth considering, too, especially for kids' bikes where easy access is essential. Nope, it won't get bikes up off the floor, but at least they'll be kept organized and stable.

Tip: A large rolling bin is useful for containing other bulky sports equipment like balls, helmets and catchers' mitts. This mesh rolling bin from The Container Store has see-through sides for convenient grab-and-run access on practice days.

Ceiling storage units maximize unused garage space. Photo: Amazon

Problem 4: Seasonal items gobbling up space.
Solution: Ceiling storage unit.

Odds are some of the bulkiest items in your garage are only used seasonally. I'm talking holiday home and yard decorations (like that 5-foot Santa yard ornament and reel-upon-reel of holiday lights), camping gear and certain sporting items like skiing and snowboarding equipment.

The secret for containing such rarely-used stuff is to stash it as high as possible, taking advantage of unused ceiling space (yes, ceiling space!). For maximum stability, install a steel storage platform designed for exactly this purpose. HyLoft Ceiling Storage Units are adjustable and simply screw into your garage's ceiling joists. Each 45 x 45-inch section installs separately, but you can add as many as you like depending on your budget and the space available.

Stackable bins make recycling a cinch. Photo: Crate & Barrel

Problem 5: Bulky trash and recycling carts.
Solution: Stackable plastic bins.

With everything else your garage is expected to contain, do you really have room for those huge rolling trash and recycling carts from your city's utilities department? I'm betting the answer is "No!" Okay, so stow those big bulky wheelie bins outside where they belong, in a spot that's convenient for curb-side collection. Next, shop around for some stackable plastic bins and use these for keeping recycling contained and sorted.

Suncast's set of three stackable bins are sturdy and roomy yet take up a bare minimum of floor space. If you own a hand truck, it'll be a cinch to roll all three outside on trash day without breaking a sweat.

Your garage still in need of help? Don't worry, we have more organizing tips in this video:

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The Daily Fix: Support a Sagging Shelf

Diane Rixon — 2010-03-26T13:20:00 00:00

Filed under: Home Offices, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

The remedy for sagging shelves? Inexpensive metal brackets. Photo: Corbis

The bookshelves in my home office have seen better days. Years of overloading them with heavy books and electronics have left some of the shelves looking decidedly droopy. They're still in good shape, though, so I didn't really want to replace them. Instead, I just added a couple of basic metal brackets underneath each shelf. Here's how:

Step 1: Measure the problem shelf. In most cases, one bracket centered and attached to the underside of the shelf will provide enough support to remedy any sagging.

Also determine what the shelf is made of. Chances are it's either solid wood, plywood, particleboard or fiberboard. Next, decide how you will anchor the bracket. If you're attaching it to the wall, will you be drilling into drywall, plaster or a wooden wall stud?

Step 2: Purchase bracket and hardware. Visit the hardware store and select an appropriately-sized metal shelving bracket. Now here's the really important part: be sure to choose suitable mounting hardware. The sturdiest metal bracket will be rendered useless if it's not anchored rock-solidly to the wall.

Specifically, skip those little colored plastic drywall plugs and get some plastic or metal self-drilling anchors instead.

A shelf is only as strong as its anchoring hardware. Photo: E-Z Ancor

Step 3: Attach bracket to shelf and wall. Empty the shelf of all its contents. Use a tape measure to locate the underside-center of the shelf and mark that point on the wall with a pencil. Next, position your new bracket at that center point, and line it up so that it is level with pre-existing brackets on either side. Use your pencil to mark the screw holes, then take down both the bracket and shelf.

Screw drywall anchors into the points you have marked. If self-drilling anchors are hard to start with, drill 1/8-inch pilot holes and try again. When the anchors are flush with the wall, hold the bracket back in position and install the screws. Replace the shelf and you're done!

What about free-standing bookcases? If the bookcase is a quality piece, you should be able use wood screws to attach the shelving bracket to the case's back side - if it has a back side, that is. Reinforcing cleats are another, less common, option.

Unfortunately, if you're dealing with a cheapish particleboard bookcase, the back side will either be too flimsy to hold a bracket ... or there simply won't be a back side! In that case, you could look into buying or making simple hardwood or metal reinforcing strips (sometimes called "lipping" or "edging strips") to screw into the underside of the sagging shelves.

What if my shelf is still sagging? If a shelf has been overloaded for too long, and if it's the kind that rests in position (instead of being screwed onto the wall or the rest of a bookshelf), it may have become permanently warped. In that case, your only option may be to replace either the shelf or the entire unit.

Helpful Hint: If you're thinking of major bookshelf repairs or a shelf-building project, check out The Sagulator. This useful (and free!) online tool will help you calculate the support your structure will need so you can avoid ever having sagging shelves in the first place!

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DIY Warrior: How to Hang Wallpaper

Diane Rixon — 2010-03-25T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Bedrooms, Living Spaces

Getty Images

If you're bored with painted walls, consider giving wallpaper a try. It's suitable for any room of the home. And today's cool, contemporary designs are not your grandmother's wallpaper.

Even wallpaper application has gotten a modern update. Most wallpapers now come pre-pasted for easier hanging. Some are even adhesive for stick 'em on, peel 'em off simplicity.

Flimsy paper falling apart in your hands is a thing of the past, too. Most consumers now end up purchasing paper-backed vinyl products rather than 100% paper. The advantage is durability: vinyl is easier to apply, easier to keep clean and easier to remove than paper.

The easiest room for newbies to experiment with wallpaper application? It's your bedroom, hands down. You'll get the hang of wallpaper hanging without having to maneuver around tight corners, pesky exposed plumbing or other annoying obstacles. Other popular rooms for wallpaper application are the bathroom and kitchen.

Wallpaper projects vary by room, room size, and the condition of your walls. The following project demonstrates how to hang pre-pasted paper-backed vinyl wallpaper in a room that does not contain existing paper (so we won't be looking at the ins and outs of stripping old wallpaper). Let's assume the walls are in reasonably good condition, with perhaps some old nail holes to patch up. (Click here to learn how to repair damaged walls.)

SKILL LEVEL

Intermediate. You may not need experience using power tools, but hanging wallpaper does require plenty of patience and an eye for detail. Uneven lines and seams can stick out like a sore thumb when the project is complete.

COST

Wallpapering a room is a lot more expensive than painting. Most papers cost about $30 per roll, but you can find some brands for as little $14 or as high as $100 or more per roll. Papering a fairly typical 12-square-foot bedroom with 8-foot ceilings would require about 12 roll. At $30 per roll, this works out to around $400. (Brewster's wallpaper estimate chart and wallpaper calculator are a couple free online tools you might find useful.)

Calculate with caution, though: there are both standard rolls and double size rolls, and lengths per roll vary from brand to brand and from one design to another. Make sure you know exactly how much paper you're getting per roll before settling on a brand or a specific design.

You must also factor in the cost of papering supplies. See below for a complete list of everything you'll need to do the job. Chances are you already own many items on the list, but you should probably allow about $50-$100 for additional purchases.

SHOPPING TIPS

Wallpaper newbie? Consider avoiding highly structured patterns like stripes or geometrics which are far more difficult to hang perfectly aligned. This goes double if your room is unusually-shaped or if you have an old home with uneven surfaces.

Also, definitely take home samples before committing to a design, just as you would with paint. However, bear in mind that wallpaper often has to be special-ordered, which might take a couple of weeks or more.

TIME INVESTMENT

Day 1: Four hours of surface preparation. Allow more time if you need to strip old wallpaper first.
Day 2: About eight hours for hanging the wallpaper. That's about twelve hours total for a 12-foot-square room.

TOOLS & SUPPLIES

In addition to your chosen rolls of wallpaper, you will need the following:

Prime your walls carefully for easy-on, easy-off wallpapering. Photo: Zinnser

For Surface Prep:
Bucket
Sponge
Mild detergent
Screwdriver
Plastic or canvas dropcloths
Tube of spackling paste
Putty knife
Wallpaper smoother
Wallpaper seam roller
Fine grit sandpaper
One-gallon bucket of primer*
Stirring stick, paint brush
Paint roller
Standard nap (3/8-inch) roller cover
Plenty of water for cleanup.

*Tip: Choosing primer: One gallon of primer will be adequate for this project, but for very small or large areas you should calculate your exact needs before starting out. Also, consider using a specialty pre-wallcovering primer, like Zinsser's Shieldz, for easier application and stripping.

For Papering:
Ladder or step stool, depending on height of walls; Large pair of sharp scissors (industrial shears or quality sewing scissors are ideal)
Pencil
Measuring tape
4-foot level
Water tray OR a tub of paste activator (see below)
Large sponge
Very sharp utility knife with lots of extra blades
Vinyl smoother
Seam roller
Vinyl-to-vinyl adhesive

*Tip: Your workstation can be any large surface that allows you to measure and cut lengths of wallpaper at a comfortable height. A large table is fine if you don't mind it suffering some surface damage. You can also improvise, balancing a sheet of plywood on a couple of sawhorses.

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Hanging Wallpaper

If you're bored with painted walls, consider giving wallpaper a try. Modern wallpapers are eye-catching, and much easier to hang.

Hanging Wallpaper

This long-handled brush is ideal for applying wallpaper adhesive. The flat, wide-handled brush is designed for smoothing down paper while it's being hung.

Hanging Wallpaper

A wallpaper seam roller (left) and a wallpaper smoother are specialized tools for helping to seal down loose seams and eliminate air bubbles.

Hanging Wallpaper

Make sure to wash the walls, turn off the room's power supply, remove switch plates and inspect the entire wall area for holes or other surface imperfections. Fill these imperfections with spackling paste and smooth with the putty knife. Allow to dry (refer to product for drying time) then sand gently for a seamless finish.

Hanging Wallpaper

Measure the width of the wallpaper rolls. Use a ruler as your guide to draw the most precise lines.

Tip: Use a feather light touch when using a pencil to mark plumb lines. Dark or heavy guide lines could show through the paper when you're done.

Hanging Wallpaper

Identify the least noticeable corner of the room, and make that your starting spot. This is usually the corner closest to the entry door or the wall directly over the entry door. Why? Simple: you'll work your way systematically around the room, hanging one strip after another. When you apply the final piece it will butt up against your starting piece, and odds are you may not be able to match the pattern together at this point. At least this way, the mismatch will be less noticeable.

Hanging Wallpaper

Now it's time to cut your first strip of wallpaper. Use the measuring tape to double-check the height of the wall, then measure and cut your first length, adding 2 inches at both top and bottom for alignment and trimming.

Hanging Wallpaper

Now it's time to activate the paste. Gently roll the length of wallpaper up, pattern facing inwards, and then soak the whole thing in a tray of room-temperature water.

Alternatively, you may choose to apply a wallpaper paste activator like Zinsser's SureGrip to the reverse (non-patterned) side. This eliminates the need to wrestle strips of paper in and out of a messy water tray. Again, it's your choice.

Before being applied to the wall, wet (or "activated") wallpaper must relax for the length of time specified by the manufacturer, usually around three to five minutes. This allows the paper to absorb water and expand slightly to its true size.

Hanging Wallpaper

While the wallpaper is relaxing, booking helps prevent the paste from drying out. Lay the strip of paper pattern-side-down on your workstation. Draw both the top and bottom ends up so that they meet in the middle (image you're wrapping a Christmas present) and gently press the very ends together at their meeting point.

Be very careful not to crease the paper anywhere during the booking and relaxing stage. You also might want to play it safe and use a timer for each relaxing stage so that you don't forget about a sheet and inadvertently allow it to dry out.

Tip: Before booking, check that each and every wallpaper sheet is evenly coated with either water or activating paste. Dry spots will show up as unsightly bubbles on your finished wall.

Hanging Wallpaper

When the paper has been relaxed, gently unroll the top half of the sheet and raise it up into position. You will probably need to stand on the ladder or step stool for this part. Check once, check twice: are you holding the paper right way up? You don't want to hang your pattern upside down!

Align one edge of the wallpaper with the plumb line you've drawn. Take your time, making sure it's a perfect match and that you've allowed an inch or two of overlap at the top. While you're positioning the top half, leave the bottom half furled to prevent it from drying out.

Press and smooth the top section into place, eliminating wrinkles or bubbles as you go with the vinyl wallpaper smoother. Work from the top downwards and from the center outwards. Be careful not to press too hard: you don't want to accidentally scratch or stretch the paper.

Unfurl the bottom half of the wallpaper and repeat the process.

Hanging Wallpaper

Wallpapering Obstacles: Corners, Windows, Doors, and Outlets

Corners:
1. Always end one strip and start a new one when you've reached a corner. This helps conceal seams and allows redrawing of the plumb line to keep everything perfectly straight. Simply guide the existing strip into position into and around the corner, then trim it with just one quarter inch of overlap left behind.

2. Now re-do the plumb line as close to the corner as possible and begin a new sheet. Use the seam smoothing roller on the area of overlap. First, you may need to apply a little vinyl-to-vinyl adhesive to the underside of the overlapping section. Refer to the wallpaper manufacturer's instructions to find out whether or not this is required.

Other obstacles:
As the work progresses, you're bound to encounter difficult spots like doorways, windows and outlet openings*. Don't attempt to measure and cut these openings in the paper prior to hanging. Instead, apply paper right up to and over obstacles.

1. Align and smooth the paper over the wall and right up to window and door frames. Carefully cut openings, allowing plenty of overlap, and then trim to size with scissors. Finally, use the putty knife to press the edges into perfect alignment and, finally, use the blade to trim to size.

2. Make sure the power is OFF before working with wet wallpaper near outlets and switches. Paper right over each one, then use your blade to slit an "x" over it. Peel the paper back very cautiously and snip off some of the excess with scissors. Now press and smooth what's left into place so that it surrounds the outlet or switch and trim with the blade. The edges don't have to be perfectly straight in this case, as the outlet or switch plate will cover any rough edges.

*Tip: Once you get in a work groove, you should be able to simultaneously prep and apply two or three sheets of paper at a time. However, stick to one sheet at a time for difficult spots such as corners and doorways. You don't want to rush these important spots and end up making a mess. Once again, it's all about taking your time.

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The Daily Fix: Unclog Your Gas Cooktop's Burners

Diane Rixon — 2010-03-22T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects

Getty Images (2)

My first grad school apartment came equipped with a gas stove. It was my first time cooking with gas and I'll admit it: I was afraid to mess with the cooktop area. All those loose pieces and open flames!

Eventually, I learned to love my gas stove. Gas cooktops are pretty harmless creatures and are usually very reliable. Burners that keep going out -- or that refuse to light at all -- are often simply clogged up with dirt.

To clean your gas stovetop's burners safely and quickly, follow these easy steps:

1. Make sure all four burners are turned off.

2. Disassemble the individual burner units. Most cooktops have four or five burners, each one consisting of four parts: a grate (the elevated surface that pots and pans rest on), a cap, a burner and a non-removable base. The grate, cap and burner should simply lift off each base piece, no tools required.

3. Wash each burner unit in hot soapy water, rinse and dry. Stick with plain old soap or dish detergent and water, since chemical cleansers could be flammable. While you're at it, might as well roll up your sleeves and scrub the grates and caps, too.

4. Use a pin, needle or straightened paper clip to clear gunk from the burner (flame) openings. An old toothbrush might be useful as well. Lay the individual pieces out to air dry.

5. Reassemble the burners and switch each one on to ensure all systems are go. Lots of blue flame? Great. If not, check that the burners were repositioned correctly.

You'll notice there's a small hole in each of the four burner base pieces. These are called the electrodes and they are where the flames shoot out and connect with each burner unit (the parts you took off and washed). Be sure to match the electrode with the corresponding opening in the burner assembly or the flame will not ignite.

SEE ALSO:
How to Keep Your Stovetop Clean
New Look for an Old Stove

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Links We Love: Working DIY Magic with Mason Jars & Wine Corks

Diane Rixon — 2010-03-19T10:50:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Makeovers & Inspiration, Living Rooms, Living Spaces

Photo: made 2 cREate

Don't you love it when everyday objects get repurposed into something really cool and useful? You'll be wowed by this DIY Mason jar chandelier tutorial. I admit, I'm no electrician, so I have no idea how safe this project is, but it sure packs a visual punch. If you're leery of venturing into electrical wiring territory, you could always make a votive candle version. (made 2 cREate)

Wine cork memo board. Photo: Casa Sugar

Do your kitty a kindness: provide places for him/her to snuggle, to climb and to sharpen those claws. For the snuggling part, know that cats adore hammocks. Let Ready Made blogger, Sonia, show you how to sew a comfy swinging sanctuary for your pet. (ReadyMade)

Learn how Remodelaholic's Cassity and Justin squeezed a half bath into a 4-bedroom, 1-bath home desperately in need of the extra "convenience." Their photos document how they did it, shaving a little bit of space off the adjoining rooms. Nice DIY'ing! (Remodelaholic via The DIY Show Off)

Take a small mountain of wine corks, a craft knife and a hot glue gun ... and you're well on your way to making this very cute wine cork memo board. Just do yourself a favor and get used corks for a genuine, lived-in look. Ask your friends to begin collecting 'em for you. (Casa Sugar)

If fabric's more your thing, take a look at another simple yet stylish memo board idea. Salvaged fabric scraps are glue-gunned onto squares of bulletin board, then secured behind a frame. Result: a modern-patchwork-design bulletin board that'll look awesome in your home office. (Crafty Nest)

Spray paint those ugly door knobs. Photo: Infarrantly Creative

Cheapo door knobs making you cringe? I'm right there with you. If you want a makeover without the expense of switching out all your door hardware, consider spray painting those ugly brass door knobs. Blogger, Beckie, offers up a brilliant how-to post on how to get a really long-lasting spray paint finish. (Infarrantly Creative)

Nope, your rental contract won't allow renovation. But this Houzz post explains how renters can get pretty darn close to a total makeover with just a little creativity. Think: decals, rugs, paint and hardware ... and have a little fun with it. (Houzz)

Photo: Apartment Therapy

Speaking of renovation, here's a kitchen re-do all the way from Melbourne, Australia, that's worth checking out. I love how the "before" shot here is a complete disaster zone, contrasting with the gleaming and gorgeous "after" shots. Gives us all hope, doesn't it? (Apartment Therapy)

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Links We Love: Bedroom Improvements Galore!

Diane Rixon — 2010-03-12T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Bedrooms, Living Spaces

A turquoise glaze makes this old dresser a winner. Photo: Centsational Girl

In case you hadn't heard, turquoise is Pantone's 2010 color of the year. I love, love, love it ... and so does Centsational Girl. She gave this dresser (a Craigslist find) a genius makeover with an antique French-style patina. Watered-down turquoise paint makes it pop, while a gray glaze and clear topcoat reign in the color for a just-right result. - Centsational Girl

Sheers are a smart alternative to tasseled tie-backs. Photo: Casa Sugar

Here's a smart idea for keeping bedroom curtains neatly contained: it's the no-tie-back method. A set of sheers hung directly behind each curtain provide a privacy screen when drawn. When not in use, they can be tied neatly around each curtain. A very pretty alternative to the standard tasseled tie-back, no? - Casa Sugar

Windows still firmly shut against the cold? If so, you're probably yearning for a breath of fresh air. Let Tipnut's clever bed sheet laundering ideas get you through, bringing fresh, summery-scented bedding to your room all year round. Jasmine plus bergamot? Vanilla plus ginger? Simply heavenly equations! - Tipnut

Get 'em before they bite you! Bedbugs, that is. They say these creepy crawlies are making a comeback -- and you'd better act fast if they turn up in your bedroom because they are seriously hard to eradicate. The Money Pit serves up a helpful overview on bedbugs: what they are and how to exterminate them ASAP. - The Money Pit

Want to brush up on basic housekeeping skills? Want magazine-shoot quality bedding? Of course you do. So check out this cute little one-minute video on how to make up a perfect bed, from smooth sheets to artfully arranged throw pillows. - My Home Ideas

Brilliant DIY blackout curtains encourage napping. Photo: Living with Lindsay

This adorable boy's bedroom had too much of a good thing: sunlight. It was interfering with naptime, says blogger and mom, Lindsay. Aiming to save money, she got creative with these DIY blackout window panels. Nice work! - Living with Lindsay

You cannot have too much closet space, right? Whatever isn't used for clothes becomes handy storage space for anything and everything else. If you can bear to shave a few feet from one end of your bedroom, just check out this how-to on installing a simple wall-to-wall closet. Think of the stuff you could hide behind those big double doors! - The Family Handyman

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The Daily Fix: Repair Chipped China

Diane Rixon — 2010-03-12T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces

Getty Images

Your favorite china plate sustained an unsightly chip? Don't despair. True, that pretty porcelain will never be 100% again, but there is a bright side: a careful repair job can make the damage almost unnoticable. Here's how:

Step 1. If they are soiled, clean both the plate and the chip. Allow them at least 24 hours to dry. Stash the chip in a safe place in case it accidentally ends up in the trash!

Step 2. Do a trial run. Before cracking out the glue, fit the pieces together. Make sure you know how to align them correctly. And test how quickly the glue is released from its tube.

Step 3. Select a glue that is appropriate for ceramic repair. A quality super glue or epoxy should give a strong, seamless hold. Here are three products you might try:

Super Glue Gel. A thick, no-drip glue designed for easy application to gritty, porous surfaces like porcelain.

Gorilla All-Purpose Epoxy. A tough, impact-resistant product that sets in just five minutes.

Loctite Household Contact Cement. This latex product allows for easy cleanup with water and it dries clear. The manufacturer says it's waterproof and dishwasher safe.

Choose a product designed to glue ceramics. Photo: The Original Super Glue Corporation

Tip: If using a slow-drying adhesive, you may be able to color-match it to your china. Just purchase a small tube or jar of oil-based enamel paint that matches the item you need to repair. Expel a small blob of glue onto a piece of cardboard or a paper plate, then use a toothpick to blend in a few drops of the paint.

Step 4. Coat the back of the chip with glue. Dab it on quickly but gently with a toothpick, a nail or a disposable craft-sized paintbrush. You can also use a Q-tip trimmed of one fuzzy end.

Step 5. Place the chip in its original position, press gently and hold for 30 to 60 seconds.

Step 6. Carefully scrape away excess glue with a blade. Do not clamp the china. The pressure could break that fragile porcelain chip in half.

Step 7. Leave it alone for at least a day or so. This gives the glue a chance to dry and begin the curing process.

Finally, a safety reminder: most glues will not withstand extreme temperatures. Do not use your repaired plate or dish in the oven. Also, skip the dishwasher and opt for a gentle hand washing instead.

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Links We Love: Surf Shack Table, Floating Shoe Rack & More

Diane Rixon — 2010-03-05T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Storage & Organization, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

This week, let's kick things off with two very cool DIY space-saving projects!

Hartman Kable demos his DIY fold-down table. Photo: Ready Made

First up: the creative space-saver in the current edition of ReadyMade. It's called the Surf Shack fold-down table. Hartman Kable, a contractor and avid surfer has gotten lots of buzz for his tiny, minimalist surf shack. Why's it so cool? He managed to fit all the comforts of home -- table included -- inside a modified shipping container. And he's done it stylishly, to boot. - Ready Made

Make this cool shoe rack! Photo: Not Martha

Looking for a footwear storage idea? Make your own low-profile shoe rack. Inspired by UK company j-me's clever design, which makes shoes appear to float a few inches above the floor, this DIY version can be cut to fit whatever space you've got to spare. It's also budget-friendly, which is always in style. - Not Martha

Photo: Getty Images

Want your floors cleaner-than-clean? Follow Casa Sugar's 10 nifty tips for better vacuuming. Whether it's using all your vacuum's hand tools the correct way or reaching those roving bunnies under the couch, these hints will improve your dust-busting technique! - Casa Sugar

Share the soap-making odyssey of Larry Bilotti, former executive editor of my fave magazine, Country Living. Mmm, fresh-cut bars of homemade soap. The heavenly scent of cedar and sage wafting through the house. I'm there! - Trout House Diaries

Love your feet: make a foot-massaging bath mat. Photo: TipNut

Bring soothing Zen spa-style into your home. DIY a foot-massaging bath mat made from polished river stones. Apart from stones and pebbles, all you'll need is some shelf liner and three tubes of silicone. Not sure I'd step out of the tub onto something so slippery. But I'd love to soothe my tootsies on one elsewhere in the bathroom -- in front of the basin, perhaps? - Lowe's (via TipNut)

Visualize your project with Floor Planner. Photo: Tabatha Muntzinger, Charles & Hudson

Remodeling? Rearranging? Give Floor Planner a try. The program boasts an easy-to-use drag and drop format. Plus you can design in 2D then view your creation in 3D. Best of all, the basic plan (allowing you to create one house or room design and share it with friends and family) is free for personal use. - Floor Planner (via Charles & Hudson)

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The Daily Fix: Remove Dried Paint from a Wood Floor

Diane Rixon — 2010-03-01T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Photo: Jolie Novak, AOL

Dried drips of paint are hard to avoid; it seems we've all got a few of these unsightly blemishes on our hardwood floors. Ideally, we'd catch all stray spots and splatters during the painting process and wipe them up while they're wet, but few paint jobs are that tidy. Luckily, dried paint can be removed from wood floors without damaging the floor's finish.

First, try to slide a very sharp blade underneath the drips. Opt for a craft knife, utility knife or very sharp kitchen knife. (Don't use a putty knife; it's way too blunt for the job.) Be extremely gentle, so as not to damage the wood. You may find that the drips pop right off with a little careful leverage.

Photo: Getty images

No luck? Try this:

If it's latex paint you're dealing with, you may be able to soften things up by pouring some hot soapy water on the affected spot. Leave the area covered to soak for a while. Then rub with a cloth, scrape with your fingernail or try the blade again. Hopefully this time things will start to come loose.

Still won't budge? Time for the hot air solution: simply warm the dots of paint with a hair dryer. This may make them soft enough to be peeled up. Make sure keep the dryer on a low-air, high-heat setting and be patient about giving the heat time to work.

Photo: Lift Off

If you tried all of that without success, it might be time to crack out the chemicals. Try dabbing each drop of paint with a little rubbing alcohol or acetone nail polish remover. You might also try a latex paint remover like Lift Off or an all-purpose remover like Goof Off.

If you go this route, use a Q-tip and be very cautious. Your goal is to soften the paint just enough that small drips can be popped loose. Use too much and you risk damaging your floor's glossy finish. The last thing you want to do is solve one problem while creating another.

Got any other tips for removing dried paint from wood floors? Comment below!

SEE ALSO:
How to Recycle Paint Cans
Paint Estimate Calculators

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The Daily Fix: Unclog a Tube of Caulk

Diane Rixon — 2010-02-24T08:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Products & Materials, Essential Skills, Know-How

Photo: McClurg Team, Flickr

Whether you're using acrylic latex caulk to plug up a drafty window or silicone caulk to waterproof a tub, you'll usually end up needing only half a tube at one time. So it's pretty much a given that when you reach for that tube again, it'll be stopped up with dried caulk.

No need to toss a perfectly good (half) tube of caulk, though. There's an easy way to get at the fresh caulk that's trapped behind the dried-up stuff. Read on:

Salvage that stopped-up tube of caulk! Photo: White Lightening

1. Grab a nice, sharp utility knife and use it to split the caulk tube's nozzle lengthwise. Always push a sharp utility knife away from you, not toward you. If you want to be extra safe, Consider securing the tube in a vise or c-clamp first. This will prevent a slippery tube from rolling suddenly, causing your grip on the knife to slip too.

2. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry loose the dried-up caulk. It's likely plugging up the entire nozzle, but chances are the caulk in the tube itself is just fine and usable.

3. Repair the slit nozzle by wrapping duct tape around the nozzle several times.

4. Load the tube into your caulking gun and get to work!

Got any other tips for unclogging a tube of caulk? Share them here!

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DIY Product Pick: Snip-and-Stick Backsplash Panels

Diane Rixon — 2010-02-22T14:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Products & Materials

Fasade backsplash panels in Muted Gold. Photo: ACP

Because of budget and time constraints, I didn't have a backsplash installed during my 2005 kitchen renovation. Of course, backsplashes are recommended to protect the wall from water damage. So I got creative with an IKEA noticeboard - a stopgap solution that's worked well up until now.

I'm now more than ready for a permanent fix, and I may have found the perfect DIY replacement: adhesive tiles. Specifically, I find myself enamored with Fasade Decorative Thermostatic Panels and Aspect Peel-and-Stick Metal Tiles, both by Acoustic Ceiling Products (ACP).

Aspect peel-and-stick backsplash tiles in Champagne. Photo: Aspect

While conventional tile and stainless steel backsplashes are typically time-consuming and costly to install, these adhesives give you the look of a much pricier product in a DIY-friendly and budget-pleasing package. Cool concept, right?

Fasade panels are made of thermoplastic, a material made of polymer resins that soften when heated and harden when cooled -- a condition which it a very easy material to recycle. Just like regular backsplash materials, Fasade is water-resistant and wipe clean with a damp cloth. Fasade tiles come in a variety of colors and embossed designs, many of which echo the look of decorative antique tin tiles.

But unlike real tin, Fasade is corrosion-resistant and designed for quick and easy installation: the panels can be cut to size with snips, scissors or a utility knife. They attach to the wall with polyurethane construction-strength adhesive or high-bond double-sided adhesive tape. Translation: no power tools or grout required!

The Fasade product line also offers lengths of trim for finishing off corners and edges. Visit ACP's website to check out the full range of design options and to order free samples, or purchase Fasade backsplash tiles at The Home Depot.

Aspect tiles, shown here in Copper, offer easy peel-and-stick installation. Photo: ACP

Aspect tiles, in contrast, come in more contemporary-style finishes than Fasade, such as faux brushed copper and faux brushed stainless. ACP says Aspect tiles are made from 60% recycled material. Plus, they're potentially even easier to install than Fasade because the tiles are peel-and-stick. I say "potentially easier-to-install" because painted walls do need a coat of primer first.

Get creative with your backsplash tile pattern. Photo: Aspect

Aspect's online installation instructions even offer six potential tile patterns (above) to inspire your creativity.

Both Fasade and Aspect are very cost-effective for the average DIYer. While you can now buy authentic backsplash materials in easy-install adhesive form, it'll cost you much bigger bucks. For example, Armstrong's adhesive stainless steel backsplash panels at Lowe's are priced at a little less than $85 for an 18 ½ x 48 ½ inch panel.

In comparison, Fasade and Aspect work out to be less than half the price. For instance, The Home Depot is currently selling Fasade's 18 x 24 inch panels at $17.95 each, while Lowe's is offering Aspect's 8-packs of 3x6 inch tiles for $21.42.

If your heart is set on the real thing, you may have no problem whatsoever parting with extra cash for genuine stainless steel or tile. But for those on a tight budget who are looking for a DIY-friendly alternative, Fasade and Aspect are definitely worth a look!

For more backsplash info., check out this video:

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DIY Warrior: Patch Up Cracked Stucco

Diane Rixon — 2010-02-17T14:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

Getty Images

Our very first house was a 1920 bungalow. Okay, so it was small inside, but oh-so-charming! The stucco really amped up its desirability factor, adding a beautifully rustic finish to our little home's exterior.

Stucco -- also known as Portland cement plaster -- has been around for centuries, and with good reason: it's durable and pretty low-maintenance.

On the other hand, cracks inevitably appear from time to time. But don't sweat it. Repairing cracked stucco is a straightforward and inexpensive DIY project!

Skill Level: Beginner and up.

Time Investment: About two hours: one for surface prep and crack repair, and one for painting.

Cost: $10-$25 for caulk or patching compound; more if you need to buy any of the stuff listed below under "Other Supplies."

Fix that cracked stucco! Photo: Mykl Roventine, Flickr

Assess the Problem. In most cases, cracks are caused by normal expansion and contraction of the home. Very long and/or deep cracks, however, will let moisture inside your home's walls. These should never be just patched up and forgotten. You may want to call in a pro to diagnose the cause, which could be as simple as poor workmanship or as serious as a structural problem.

Round Up Your Tools and Supplies. For narrow cracks -- roughly 1/4 inch wide or less -- you have a couple of choices: paintable silicone caulk (like GE's Silicone II) or pre-mixed stucco crack repair compound (like QUIKRETE's Stucco Repair) -- the latter will have more of a stucco-like texture when dry. Both of these options come ready-mixed and can be applied with a caulking gun.

For more substantial cracks, pick up a quart-sized bucket of pre-mixed stucco patching compound. DAP and QUIKRETE both offer versions that are convenient and easy to apply. Because these types of synthetic stucco are made of acrylic latex, they are also quick-drying, flexible and paintable.

Synthetic stucco patching compounds are easy to use. Photo: Dap

Tip: Don't buy an enormous bag of dry stucco mix to fill cracks. You won't need anywhere near this much. Save those big bags for major patching projects; the kind caused by your teenager reversing his car into the house, for instance.

Other Supplies:
- Chisel or screwdriver
- Hose and/or bucket of water and a sponge
- Wire brush
- Small broom or stiff-bristled brush
- Bricklayer's trowel
- Priming and painting supplies: Exterior acrylic primer, exterior acrylic top coat (to match existing paint color), 1 small paintbrush (1 inch wide or less), stirring stick, and plenty of water for cleanup.

Directions:

1. Surface Prep. Gently pry away loose pieces of stucco using the chisel or screwdriver. If the area in or around the crack is dirty, scrub it down with the wire brush. Brush with the broom or stiff-bristled brush to remove dust.

2. Wet the area thoroughly. Existing, dry stucco will suck the moisture out of freshly applied wet stucco or patching compound, preventing it from bonding properly. Wetting the work surface discourages this problem.

Keep stucco moist during repairs. Photo: Corbis Images

3. Repair the Crack. Pack the exposed area with caulk or stucco repair compound. Smooth with your fingers or a damp cloth. Next, take the trowel and roughen up the surface a little bit, just enough so that it matches the wall's overall texture. If you used silicone caulk, you can actually press a little sand into the top layer to make it look more stucco-like.

For a deep crack extending all the way to the base layer (or "scratch coat") fill a quarter inch deep and allow it to cure for a day or two. Depending on the product, you may need to mist the area with water now and again. Finally, fill it the rest of the way and add texture with the trowel.

Tip: To encourage an even tighter seal, first apply a masonry bonding agent inside the crack then fill. Alternatively, if recurring cracks have been a problem in the past, try skipping standard caulks or stucco repair compounds altogether and try a masonry repair product with added flexibility such as DAP's Elastopatch.

4. Cure and Paint. Unlike real stucco, pre-mixed repair compounds dry quickly. The time needed to cure varies from product to product. Just follow the instructions, allowing adequate drying time, then add a layer of primer. Allow to dry then paint to match the rest of the wall.

Hopefully you'll achieve an exact match. If not, the patched area may stand out, in which case you should consider repainting the entire wall.

Did You Know? Stucco is easy to mix yourself. It's just Portland cement, hydrated lime and sand. This How Stuff Works video tutorial shows you how it's done!

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Links We Love: Inspiring Kitchen/Bath Makeovers & Projects

Diane Rixon — 2010-02-12T17:40:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Makeovers & Inspiration, Living Rooms, Living Spaces

Everyone loves a makeover, right? Don't know about you, but I can't resist anything kitchen or bath-related. This week we have a bunch of new links to share that showcase some beautiful DIY room improvements and renovations. Enjoy!

Judd Studio Engineering

Giant "iPhone," anyone? This TV-sized, wall-mounted computer (pictured) super-sizes the touch-screen technology and cool design of the iPhone and places it right in the hub of the home. Online recipes, email, weather reports, iTunes -- all easily accessible while the homeowners are making dinner. Its creator kindly shares his process with anyone who'd like to recreate it! - Judd Studio Engineering [via DIY Blog]

This Old House

Ready for a dose of makeover envy? Then check out this gorgeous $967 kitchen revamp. These DIY'ers turned their kitchen from monotonous to magnificent ... on a very tight budget! They refinished the cabinets themselves, installed new countertops, and opted for bright green tiles that really pop. - This Old House Speaking of budget kitchen redos, I love how brilliantly homeowner/blogger Kasmira used paint to update her room and, in particular, to cover up some very 80s-looking sunflower stencils. The space looks so warm and inviting after being repainted with "Golden Cricket" by Behr. - Cincinnati Cape Cod

Behr's "Golden Cricket" refinishes this kitchen. Photo: Cincinnati Cape Cod

Hmm. Where to put the microwave? It's an important kitchen reno decision. Hint: the key is finding a spot that's convenient yet unobtrusive. Houzz serves up a handy slideshow of 14 sumptuous kitchens with well-placed microwaves. Look and learn! - Houzz

Sometimes you have to change course on a renovation. Such was the case for blogger Leah and her husband. Hoping to restore their bathroom to its original black and pink-tiled glory, they eventually let go of the dream after paint stripper damaged the tiles. But they salvaged the situation nicely, refinishing the room in clean white wainscoting. - Storybook Ranch

River pebbles in resin enhance this bathroom. Photo: HGTV

Steal this idea: river pebbles buried in a smooth resin shell make for a fabulous bathroom backsplash and countertop. Get inspired by this and other new backsplash designs, including the latest use of mosaics and colorful tile, in a new HGTV slideshow. - HGTV

Kids getting in the way of your DIY'ing? ReadyMade suggests encouraging their interest. Here's a list of 10 ideas for including the kids in DIY work, letting those little ones learn all about houses and home repair. - ReadyMade [via Charles & Hudson)

Bibbidi Bobbidi Beautiful

Contain clutter and annoying cables: build a wall-mounted charging station for your electronic devices using an inexpensive ledge shelf. You know, the kind used to display framed photos. Cables can be wound up and secured inside the shelf's hollow interior. Not only does it look attractive, you'll also regain precious kitchen counter space. File this one under "Why didn't I think of that?!" - Bibbidi Bobbidi Beautiful [via LifeHacker]

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Unusual Uses: Charcoal

Diane Rixon — 2010-02-12T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Unusual Uses, Essential Skills, Know-How

magnoid, Flickr

Most of us hear the word "charcoal" and we think "barbecue," right? But charcoal actually has tons of uses around the home and yard. For years I used charcoal in my aquarium filters, for example. I always wondered how something resembling lumps of dirt could actually purify my fishes' water!

Looking closer though, I observed that charcoal is a really beautiful thing. Mostly carbon, charcoal is like the most lightweight, porous rock you've ever seen. It's that porous quality that makes charcoal so useful, enabling it to absorb moisture, odor and dirt. Activated charcoal is the most porous of all, since it's been processed for maximum surface area. Let's look at some surprising ways you can use charcoal.

Getty Images

In the Workshop
Keeping a chunk or two in your toolbox or tool-storage cabinet may help keep rust off metal tools.

In the Bathroom
Charcoal's a natural dehumidifier, too, helping remove excess moisture from damp areas of the home. Try it in problem damp spots, especially anywhere closets and books are stored.

In the Bedroom
Charcoal makes a great odor neutralizer. Place some in a box or bowl and tuck in back of your closet or dresser drawers. Add some to your shoe storage boxes to keep footwear smelling fresh. Or try keeping a few pieces in your refrigerator or pantry to keep food odors at bay.

Remember how charcoal purifies aquarium water? You can also add some to vases to help cut flowers last longer or to encourage plant cuttings to take root.

In the Yard and Garden
Lots of gardeners swear by charcoal for enriching soil and compost with beneficial carbon. If you try this, make sure to use cheap, horticultural charcoal. There's no need to bring the expensive activated kind outdoors for these kinds of jobs!

Clump-free de-icing salt. Photo: comedy_nose, Flickr

Here's another great yard-related use: throw some into your bag of de-icing salt. Apparently charcoal's moisture-absorbing power prevents the salt from clumping into big useless rocks.

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The Daily Fix: Clean Up a Keyboard Spill

Diane Rixon — 2010-02-11T14:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

ewen and donabel, Flickr

I live in fear of a spill happening near my precious computer. All it takes is a cup of hot coffee, sticky soda, or even water to render my keyboard useless.

But the truth is, if you act fast and you're lucky, your keyboard can be salvaged. Here's how to do it.

1. Shut off or unplug the computer. If the keyboard is a separate device, disconnect it from the computer immediately.

2. Turn the unit upside down so that it can drain. Do this before running off to find paper towels or some other absorbent cleanup aid.

3. Pat dry every accessible surface with paper towels, paper napkins ... heck, use your shirt if you have to. If only plain water was spilled, just leave the keyboard to dry. If you spilled something hot and sticky, however, you'll have more work to do.

4. If it's a laptop, remove the battery.

5. Do not rinse your laptop. Just let it dry out. As for computer keyboards that have been disconnected from a desktop computer, prepare to be shocked: not only can they be hand washed, some say you can even put computer keyboards through the dishwasher. Just be certain your device is 100% dry before reconnecting it.

6. Laptops need to be cleaned the slow way. Same goes for computer keyboards if you don't want to risk the water-rinsing method. Gently pop off the keys one-by-one using a flat-head screwdriver for gentle leverage. Using cotton swabs or a toothbrush, clean the exposed surface with isopropyl alcohol.

7. If anything sticky made it inside the laptop, an internal cleanup will be required. If you're not a techie, play it safe and call an expert for help. In the meantime, keep your laptop upside down or tilted in a warm, sunny location or near a heat source.

Tip: Never use a hair dryer to speed up the drying process; static damage could result. Also, in the case of a bad spill, the incoming blast of hot air could actually drive the mess further into the machine.

SEE ALSO:
10 Offices Converted from Closets

Turn Your NetBook Into a Feature-Rich eBook Reader

DIY Project: Faux Top-Stitched Leather Desk

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The Daily Fix: De-Ice a Frozen Lock

Diane Rixon — 2010-02-10T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

ChicagoGeek, Flickr

It's late. It's dark. You trudge through the snow to your car and discover the locks are all iced up. Don't panic! There's a clever way to solve this problem. Just apply a glob of hand sanitizer to the key and wiggle it gently into the lock.

Why does this work? Hand sanitizer's primary ingredient is alcohol, which melts ice clear away in seconds.

I love this tip, especially since I usually keep a travel-size bottle of Purell in my bag anyway. Another plus: hand sanitizer is much easier to come by in a pinch than specialty de-icing products. After all, even if you aren't carrying any Purell yourself, you can probably borrow some from a friend or passerby, right?

Photo: Valerie Everett, Flickr

A few more clever de-icing ideas:

Use a cigarette lighter to heat the tip of the key. It may take a few attempts, but the hot key should gradually melt the ice.

Spray a little WD-40 into the lock. Just remember WD-40 is highly flammable. If it doesn't work, don't try the cigarette lighter method afterwards -- at least not on the same lock!

If your car is parked at home you can also try breaking out the hair dryer. A blast of hot air should be all that's needed to get that lock finally de-iced. If you don't have a suitably long extension cord, try pouring some very hot water over the lock. Hopefully you'll be on your way in no time!

More cool ideas:
Top 10 DIY Car Hacks
All About Locks

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Should You or Shouldn't You? Tankless Water Heaters

Diane Rixon — 2010-02-09T14:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Depending on the model, tankless water heaters can be installed inside or outside the home. Photos (left to right): omiksemaj, Flickr; tom.arthur, Flickr

All those steamy hot showers you enjoy so much? They're costing you big-time. Hot water is the US consumer's third largest energy expense, accounting for around 12% of the average utility bill. A water heater upgrade is one way to cut costs. But it also leads to the question of whether to replace it with another traditional storage tank heater, or to opt for a tankless water heater. Should you or shouldn't you?

HOW DO TANKLESS WATER HEATERS WORK?
Let's take a closer look at water heaters.

A conventional storage tank water heater. Photo: Vagabond Shutterbug, Flickr

A conventional water heater draws hot water from a thermostatically-controlled storage tank that refills automatically. The entire tank of hot water is held on standby 24/7. A lot of energy is gobbled up keeping the temperature constant, replacing hot water you've used and compensating for heat lost to the surrounding environment.

A tankless heater, on the other hand, conserves energy because it doesn't keep hot water in reserve. Instead, water is heated on an as-needed basis, routed through a powerful heating unit whenever a hot water faucet is turned on. Typically gas-fired (although you can buy electric versions, too), tankless heaters depend on electronic sensors to detect and regulate water temperature and flow.

BENEFITS OF TANKLESS WATER HEATERS
When it comes to space efficiency, energy efficiency, and durability, tankless water heaters can't be beat.

Tankless heaters are appealingly space-efficient, consisting of just a compact rectangular unit attached to the wall. Compare that to storage tank heaters, which typically hold 20 to 80 gallons of water. For homeowners with space limitations, tankless just makes more sense.

Then there's the obvious energy savings. Tankless water heaters are getting lots of buzz these days, in large part because many now boast the coveted blue ENERGY STAR sticker, which indicates that the product meets strict energy-efficiency standards set by the government. Because they only heat water on an as-needed basis, monthly heating bills are usually lower.

Manufacturers claim a much longer lifespan for tankless heaters: over 20 years compared with just 10 years for typical storage water heaters. That's because tankless heaters contain replaceable parts that can be repaired when a problem occurs; storage heaters often must be trashed after a breakdown. For that reason, it's also fair to say that tankless heaters are more environmentally friendly, since they reduce landfill waste.

DRAWBACKS OF TANKLESS WATER HEATERS
The main downsides of tankless water heaters are cost, installation, and maintenance.

Tankless water heaters cost a lot more than storage tank water heaters up front. Gas-powered tankless units range from a couple hundred to $1300, compared to standard tank heaters, which are generally in the $150 to $500 range.

Installation is also more complicated and expensive for tankless than for tank heaters. Electrical outlets have to be installed to handle the unit's fan and thermostat. A gas supply line and venting system are usually required, too. Plus, you have to spend around $1000 or more on installation, compared with just a few hundred dollars for storage tank heaters. Some tankless water heaters can be installed on the inside or outside of the house.

Tankless heaters should be serviced about once a year to remove calcium buildup. Exactly how often this servicing is required depends on water hardness levels in your town; harder water causes more calcium buildup.

Another Upside: Rebates and Tax Credits
More good news: the government wants you to invest in energy-efficient home improvements, so numerous rebates and tax credits have popped up to offset the price of purchase and installation.

Rebates: Now is actually the perfect time to buy, since state-by-state rebates are finally coming into effect. Interested? Check out this list of rebate kickoff dates by state.

Tax credits: You may also be eligible for a Federal Stimulus Package tax credit. This trims 30% off the price of certain ENERGY STAR-rated tankless heating units, awarding you up to a maximum of $1500 off total purchase and installation costs. For more details on rebates and tax credits, visit the Noritz and Takagi websites. Check manufacturer sites, including those for Rheem and Bosch, for listings of which tankless water heater models qualify for government assistance.

Be sure to bookmark these two essential Web resources, too: the Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency, which provides a comprehensive list of tax rebates available to consumers on a state-by-state basis, and the US Department of Energy's ENERGY STAR Approved Energy Efficient Appliance Rebate System info page.

TANKLESS WATER HEATER CONSIDERATIONS

Brand: If you do decide to upgrade to a tankless water heater, do some research to find the brand that's right for you. Big-name manufacturers include Takagi and Noritz, as well as more familiar household brands like Rheem and Bosch.

Size: You'll also need to choose the right size tankless heater for your home and region. This is often calculated in terms of gallons per minute (gpm) that a given heater can produce. This can get complicated, since the gpm ratio depends, in part, on ground temperature relative to your required water temperature.

Your location: Tankless heaters draw and heat water directly from the public water supply. One tankless heater may cost X dollars per month to operate in a mild Southern winter. However, that exact same heater would cost a whole lot more in a freezing Northern winter simply because it is drawing upon much colder groundwater.

TANKLESS WATER HEATER QUIRKS

The heating mechanism must sense a minimum water flow before kicking into operation. If you like to conserve water and energy by using just a slow trickle of hot water for certain tasks (such as shaving), you may be out of luck. It's the full flow or nothing.

Because tankless heaters depend on electric controls and there's no backup reserve water, you will lose hot water during extended power outages. That may not happen very often, but it's definitely something to be aware of.

You won't get instant hot water from a tankless heater. Just as with a storage tank heater, you must run the hot water faucet to rid the pipes of cold water before the hot water starts flowing.

A final word of advice: Unless your existing water heater is on its last legs and absolutely must be replaced, there's no urgency to switch to a tankless version. If lowering your utility bill is your primary concern, there are lots of ways you and your family can spend less on hot water this winter. Check out this page of energy-saving tips from the US Department of Energy to get started saving!

See also:
How to Install a Propane Tankless Water Heater
Water Heaters Have Gone Hybrid

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The Daily Fix: How to Separate Stuck Glassware

Diane Rixon — 2010-02-05T14:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Photo: modomatic, Flickr

Guests arriving at 6pm. Quick! Get the main course in the oven and start on dessert. Grab all your baking equipment and -- oh darn it, those glass mixing bowls are stuck together again! Always when you're in a hurry, right?

Don't fret: there's an easy way to separate nesting bowls or stacked glasses that have become wedged together: drip a few drops of vegetable oil between the items in question and wiggle very gently. If they still won't budge, add a bit of warm water to mix things up. They should pop apart without a problem.

No luck? Here are some other suggestions worth trying:

Try to shake those glasses loose with ice water. Photo: Andrew Mason, Flickr

Dish soap and hot water. Odds are those soapy suds will lubricate the glass surfaces and they'll come unstuck.

Hot water and ice water. Submerge the bottom glass or bowl in very hot (but not boiling) water. Fill the uppermost glass or bowl with ice water. Presto! The simultaneous expansion and contraction of the layers should unstick even the most stubborn glassware.

WD-40. A quick spray of WD-40 anyone? Interesting suggestion, but not on my glassware, thanks. If you do try this method, wash everything with lots of soap and hot water before using them for food prep, eating or drinking.

Speaking of staying safe, always handle glassware with extreme care. Trying to forcibly pry stuck glasses or bowls apart could shatter them and leave you with a nasty cut. Worst case scenario: shards could fly up into your face. Ouch. Don't risk it.

See also:
Top Ten Home Bar Essentials
The Daily Fix: Wipe Out Water Rings on the Table

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