DIY Life

Jigsaws - In the Workshop

Doug Mahoney — 2010-11-09T10:00:00 00:00

Puzzled by jigsaws? These versatile power tools can make cuts through just about any material, plus they're easy to use and high-end models are extremely precise. With so many options, here are tips to keep in mind when buying your jigsaw.

Getty Images

From construction projects to craft applications, jigsaws are a powerful part of the DIY arsenal of tools. Next to the universal drill and driver, the jigsaw is among the most popular power-tool purchases. With great flexibility and cutting power, it can cut along straight and curved lines, holes, angles, plus it's a nice companion tool for the circular saw.

Depending on your needs and project details, certain jigsaws suit specific applications better than others. So it's important to make sure you're up to speed on what your needs and intended applications are.

D-handle jigsaws are great for those with small hands. Photo: Ace Hardware

JIGSAW BASICS
There are two different types of jigsaws -- barrel grip and D-style -- that come with several options including variable speed, laser and cordless packages. The difference between the two types is mainly in the shape of the body. D-style models have a handle that arches up out of the back of the tool, while barrel-grip jigsaws require you to grip the motor housing.

There's no functionality difference here, so which one you choose boils down to a matter of preference. Both hands are needed to operate a barrel-grip jigsaw, so those with smaller hands may prefer a D-style handle. Still undecided? You can purchase a convertible grip, which allows you to remove the top portion of the D-style handle, resulting in a barrel grip.

PROJECT APPLICATIONS
When buying a jigsaw, it's important to think about how you'll be using your jigsaw. Knowing what type of projects you intend to tackle with your jigsaw will help you decipher what type of features you need. Here's a rough guideline:

- Power: If you're going to be doing major home improvement work, you should find a jigsaw that has at least 5 amps of power. If you're going to be making a birdhouse every couple years, a less powerful model will suffice.

- Cordless vs. Corded: If you want to work on projects for extended periods at a time without losing power, then a corded jigsaw is your best option. Since these models don't require a battery back, the jigsaws are lighter to handle compared to cordless models. If you need the flexibility to move around without being limited by an affixed cord, opt for a high-voltage cordless jigsaw.

- Orbital action: On a basic jigsaw, the blade simply moves up and down. Yet on more expensive models, there is usually a switch that allows you to toggle in a slight orbital movement to the blade for a faster and more aggressive cut, enabling you to tackle a variety of materials and applications.

- Laser light: Using your jigsaw primarily for straight cuts? Look for features like a built-in laser, which enhances efficiency on these types of cuts.

- Blades: There is an extremely wide variety of blades available. Manufacturers like Bosch make blades for wood, tile, metal, and even stainless steel. The number and size of teeth correlate with the cut result. Thus, the higher the tpi (teeth per inch) count, the finer the cut.

For more details on applications and jigsaw features, check out Home's Depot's jigsaw breakdown.

PRICE
So what can you expect to pay for a jigsaw that meets your needs? Well, if you're not worried about power or durability, you can get a jigsaw for about $25. However, it's important to remember you do get what you pay for: less-expensive jigsaws have less precision. With that said, budget jigsaws are usually fine for rough cuts. While you might not need a top of the line saw (around $150), for a quality saw you should begin by looking in the $50 range.

SEE ALSO:
In the Workshop: Drill Bits
In the Workshop: Circular Saws
Jigsaws Buying Guide (Home Depot)
Basic Tools for the DIYer (Centsational Girl)

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In the Workshop: Drill Bits

Doug Mahoney — 2010-07-27T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Corbis

So you've bought your brand new drill; now it's time to get some bits for boring various types of holes into your building and repair projects. If you haven't spent much time in the tool section of The Home Depot, you'll be surprised by how many types of drill bits there are. Here's a run-down of the most useful ones.

Twist bit: When you imagine a drill bit, you probably visualize the most common type: the twist bit. This is the standard cylindrical bit that's good for drilling relatively small holes into wood, metal, and plastic.

Spade bit: The business end of these bits sort of looks like the Batman symbol. They're flat with a central point and a spur at the outer edges of the 'wings.' They're ideal for drilling larger diameter holes. Spade bits tend to leave ragged edges, so they're not the best choice for finish work (see Forstner bits for that), but they're perfect for things like deck framing and running wires through studs.

Left to right: Milwaukee Black Oxide Twist Drill Bit; Bosch DareDevil Spade Bit; 8 mm Brad Point Drill Bit; 35 mm Forstner Bit with 10 mm Shank; DeWalt Ship Auger Bit. Photos: Amazon.com

Brad Point Bits: These bits are for very precise holes. In many regards they look like twist bits, but when you look closely, they actually share some characteristics with a spade bit. There is a central point which prohibits the bit from wandering as well as cutting edges on the outside of the bit. This leads to a much cleaner hole than a twist bit.

Forstner Bits: These bits are capable of cutting a round hole with a large diameter. Because they leave a flat-bottomed hole, they're perfect for installing European hinges. If you're using a plug cutter, Forstner bits are also great for drilling out the initial hole. These bits have a little centering point and they leave a nice, clean circular cut.

Auger Bit: These long bits are good for drilling large, deep holes in wood. They are designed in such a way that the drilled material gets forced down the flutes of the bit and ejected from the workpiece.

How the bits are constructed is also important. Some have a black-oxide coating which gives the bit some resistance to rust as well as the high heat that's generated when drilling through metal. Other bits have carbide tips which are stronger than standard bits (and they cost more too). And yet others are made of something called, 'high speed steel,' which also displays resistance to the effects of heat.

A standard drill index of twist bits start at about $15. Other, more specialized bits, like Forstner's are more expensive. Sometimes getting in the $40 per bit range.

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In the Workshop: Adjustable Wrenches

Doug Mahoney — 2010-06-04T08:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Doug Mahoney is a professional carpenter and the editor of Tool Snob.

Corbis

Wrenches are an integral part of your tool collection. Their main function, as any DIYer knows, is to apply torque to an object -- in other words to grip and twist. It's used for removing nuts and bolts as well as larger objects like plumbing fixtures. Adjustable wrenches are a unique type of hand tool, in that one adjustable wrench can take the place of an entire set of fixed wrenches. They usually work with some kind of worm shaft that opens and closes the lower jaw, allowing you to adjust the fit and the grip.

Adjustable wrench: This primary member of the adjustable family of wrenches is also called the Crescent wrench (after the U.S. version made by Cooper Tools) is probably the most useful type of wrench -- and thus the most common. It acts like an open end wrench, but here, the lower jaw is adjustable, so one tool instantly replaces your entire metric and SAE wrench set. When buying one of these, make sure to test out the play in the lower jaw, the less the better. If the lower jaw is wiggly, the wrench can easily slip off a nut while in use, potentially stripping it.

Monkey wrench: Also called a Stillson wrench, this tool has been for hundreds of years -- although its popularity decreased with the rise of the more compact adjustable wrench (above). Its smooth jaws are perpendicular to its straight handle.

Pipe Wrench - Often mistaken for the monkey wrench, this tool is almost identical to its doppelganger, except for the fact that its jaws have serrated edges that help it grip objects. When the handle gets pressure, the jaws actually lock around the object giving you a great degree of strength and control in your twist. A pipe wrench is a good choice when you need a strong, sturdy tool.

Left: Pipe wrench (Getty Images). Right: Monkey wrench (Amazon.com)

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DIY Disaster Doctor: Tub Caulking...or Cake Frosting?

Doug Mahoney — 2010-05-07T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects

The old homeowners laid it on thick. Photo: Doug Mahoney

Unfortunately, much of the 'character' of my 100-year-old farmhouse derives from subpar DIY improvements. The master bathroom is a perfect example. The only thing worse than the uneven tile job around the tub is the blobular caulk joint that runs along the inside corners and at the tub deck.

DIAGNOSIS
With a caulking job this ugly, it's doubtful that care was taken with the preparation. To be honest, it looks like someone emptied an entire tube of caulk every five or six tiles. There are points where the caulk joint is almost 2" wide! You may be wondering: are the joints so heavy because the previous owner didn't know what they were doing with a tube of caulk, or does the excess caulking actually serve a purpose?

I was thinking that there might be some separation between the caulk and the tile; that might explain the heavy caulking. And a scenario like that would actually be good news: If I were to discover a bad leak due to a plumbing issue, it would be much harder to solve, not to mention more expensive. If it was just a case of the tile separating from the wall, then we may just be looking at a sloppy job done by a novice.

In the latter case, the opening at the end of the caulk tube may have simply been too big. When cutting the end of a new tube of caulk, use a utility knife and aim for a hole about 1/4 inch (or less) in diameter. It's better to have an opening that's too small than one that's too big.

RX
I'd been wondering/worrying about the caulk joints for some time. But the water stain appearing on the living room ceiling -- directly underneath the tub -- finally pushed me to take action.

So how bad was the situation? Once I took my head out of my hands and gave the area a careful inspection, I realized it actually wasn't that bad at all. Behind the tile was some construction paper that was pretty moldy, so I removed that, but underneath was a decent plywood substrate. From where the water marks were on the plywood, I could see that the water had been getting in between the tiles on this bottom row. For my fix, I decided to simply reinstall the tile and recaulk the whole thing.

CAN I TREAT THIS MYSELF?
Absolutely! Here's how I did it.

Photo: Doug Mahoney

Step 1: Remove the Old Caulk
The first step was to remove the old caulk. There are a number of methods for doing this. You can use specialized tools -- and even chemical caulk softeners -- to make the process easier. But I've always had the best luck with a simple utility knife.Doug MahoneyI like the kind with the snap-off blades; it's easier to draw the razor down along the tile face.

The vertical bead where the two walls meet came off with no problem, but the horizontal joint at the tub deck was another issue. Here, the lowest course of tile actually came off with the caulking (in fact it was being held in place by the caulk). The area behind the tile looked pretty nasty at first glance.

Photo: Doug Mahoney

Step 2: Reinstall the Tile

I dried the area out with a heat gun and put the tile back on with my favorite construction adhesive, PL Premium. The process was easy; just butter a little PL on the back of each tile and stick it back into the plywood. PL expands as it cures, so I held the tiles in place with some tape.

Step 3: Recaulk
I waited a day for the PL to cure and then entered the recaulking phase of the plan. The first thing to do here is to thoroughly clean everything so that the new caulk can get a good seal to the tile. I did this by giving the tile and tub deck a thorough wipe down with denatured alcohol to remove any film or residue left behind. If you have a mildew problem, you may want to also look into using a specialized mildew remover.

Photo: Doug Mahoney

There are a lot of different caulks out there, but I think silicone is the bet for this situation. It's a bit tougher to work with than latex caulk, but it lasts longer and has better elasticity, which is a must for my saggy old house. I also used one that is specially formulated for showers and tubs and has a mildew-resistant additive.

If you're really concerned about getting the perfect looking caulk joint, you probably want to lay down a piece of painter's tape on each side of the joint. This keeps the caulk where you want it.

To get a nice smooth finish on the caulk bead, I just used my finger. But if you're not into that, the DAP ProCaulk tool works great. Some people use a rag, but that tends to push the caulk into the joint and leave it uneven.

Step 4: Wait and Admire

Photo: Doug Mahoney

It's a good idea to let your new caulking cure for about 24 hours before using the shower. If you're in a huge rush, there are sink and bathroom caulks available that cure faster, but I've found that they're difficult to work with.

Your results will vary depending on the condition of your tiles. In my case, the original tile job is so bad that even with the fix, it's not ideal aesthetically (there's still the hideous grout job). But it's certainly better than before. And with the leaks sealed up, at least I can stop stressing out about water in my walls.

Photo: Doug Mahoney

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In the Workshop: Pliers

Doug Mahoney — 2010-04-23T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Slip-Joint pliers. Photo: Getty Images

Say the word 'pliers,' and you're bound to conjure up a bunch of different images. Some people will immediately think of the pointy prongs of a needle-nose; others will default to the compact head of the Linesman; and so on.

Different pliers are necessary for different jobs, but they're tied together by a few shared characteristics. They all consist of two lengths of metal, joined at a central hinge. One side of the hinge acts as a handle and the other as a clamping or cutting jaw. As anyone who has made it through 10th grade physics knows, this kind of set-up amplifies the pressure applied, thus making the jaws of the pliers much stronger than your hands could ever be.

Here are the four most common types of pliers.

Slip-Joint and Groove-Joint Pliers
These pliers are used for clamping; they're marked by an adjustable jaw. Slip-joint pliers have a two position jaw, while groove-joint pliers usually have approximately six positions, allowing them to grab onto much larger objects. Groove-joint pliers are also known by the nickname, Channellocks, after the company that invented the style. Both of these types of pliers are good for tightening down and loosening nuts.

Locking Pliers
You probably know these pliers by the common term Vise-Grip, which is the name they were sold under when Irwin Tools first invented them. Locking pliers have an adjustable locking mechanism that makes them perfect for grabbing onto and removing stripped nuts and stripped screws. They can grip with fantastic pressure, so they're a popular all-purpose tool for carpenters, plumbers, electricians, metalworkers, and just about any DIYer.

Getty Images

Needle-Nose Pliers
As the name implies, these pliers have a long, narrow snout and are good for getting into tight spaces or working with small, delicate objects.

Linesman Pliers (a.k.a: Combination Pliers)
Although this style was created to suit the needs of electricians, they have a multitude of uses. The 'combination' is the pairing of a small clamping area with a cutting edge. These features make the tool a natural for working with wires.

Tip: If you're in the market for pliers, make sure that they have a solid, durable feel to them. Stay away from pliers that have a loose hinge. If you're going to be using them a lot, invest in pliers with strong grips.

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In the Workshop: Cordless Drills

Doug Mahoney — 2010-04-07T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

jupiterimages

Because it does double duty as a drill and a driver, the cordless drill is an essential part of the tool repertoire. But before you go and drop a ton of cash on any old cordless drill, there are a few things to consider.

Amazon

Battery Type: I recommend a tool that has lithium-ion batteries. They're lighter and they charge faster than their nickel counterparts. They also operate the tool at full power until they're empty. Nickel batteries have a long, slow (and usually frustrating) fade. There are still companies that make nickel batteries, but they seem to be phasing them out on all fronts.

Power: You should also think about how much juice you'll need. The standard voltages are 12-volt (which is the same as 10.8-volt), 14.4-volt, 18-volt -- and then the monster truck 28- and 36-volt. Just pretend these last two don't exist. You really don't need them unless you're doing heavy duty jobs, like drilling through 16" of concrete. The 12-volt drills are pretty powerful, and you can get away with one if you're sticking to light-duty tasks and small around-the-house projects. My recommendation is a 14.4-volt. I've found that there isn't much that separates it from the 18-volt. Sure, there's a little more power with the larger tool. But if you're not used to it, you're really not going to miss it. I know plenty of carpenters who are perfectly happy with their 14.4s.

Brand/Cost: With drills, cost and quality tend to have a pretty close relationship. The more expensive, the better the tool. You can pick up a cordless drill for as little as $20, but don't expect it to go the distance. A Milwaukee or a Makita, which retail for almost $200, will last a whole lot longer. That's not to say you should get the most expensive cordless drill you can find. Just shop around and get a sense of the price range, so you can weigh the cost vs. how often you're going to be using the drill, what you're going to be using it for. The $20 drill might work fine if you're only using it to build your kid's science fair project.

Warranty: It's also worth checking out the warranty on the drill; particularly how long the battery is covered. At least one company that I know of, Rockwell, has a 'free batteries for life,' warranty.

Once you get narrowed down to a brand, you should see what other cordless tools they have in the voltage that you want. Buying into a company's battery platform can be a good idea because all of your batteries will be compatible with all of your tools. This is also the Achilles heel of the 14.4-volt drill. Since 18-volt is more of a 'job site standard,' a wider variety of tools are available.

Doug Mahoney is a a New England-based freelance writer, tool enthusiast, and residential carpenter. He is the founding editor of ToolSnob.

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In the Workshop: Fixed Wrenches

Doug Mahoney — 2010-03-31T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Box end wrench (top) and open end wrech (bottom). Photo: Getty Images

According to the Merrian-Webster's dictionary, the word wrench derives from the Old English wrencan which means "to twist." Some things don't change with time, so like the etymology implies, the modern day tool is used for turning an object, commonly a hex-headed bolt or a nut.

There's a large variety of wrenches out there, each with its own specific function. They all fall into two broad categories: adjustable and fixed. From there, the most common types of fixed wrenches are the open-end wrench, the box-end wrench, and the combination wrench.

Open End Wrench - This is the classic wrench that consists of a simple handle with a 'c' shape at the end of it. Its function is basic; set the open end around a nut or bolt so that the edges of the wrench are tight to the sides, and turn. Open end wrenches come in both metric and SAE (inches) increments.

Getty Images

Box End Wrench - These are similar to their open ended cousins except for the fact that the end is a closed 'o' instead of an open 'c.' These are nice because they apply pressure to all sides of the nut evenly, as opposed to the two sides that an open end wrench uses. The limitation with them is that you need the clearance to get the wrench around the nut.

Combination Wrench - Combo wrenches are nothing more than a wrench having an open end on one side and a box end on the other other. A basic set of combination wrenches usually goes for $20-$30, so if you want both SAE and metric, you can expect to be in the $40-$60 range.

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In the Workshop: Rip Saws and Crosscut Saws

Doug Mahoney — 2010-03-25T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Photo: Getty Images

There are two ways to cut a board: with the grain and across the grain. A cut that's made with (in the direction of) the wood's grain -- or down the length of the board -- is called a rip. A cut that's made across (perpendicular to) the grain is aptly named a crosscut.

Stanley Crosscut Saw. Photo: Amazon

You can't (or shouldn't) make these cuts with any old saw. A rip and a crosscut each require their own tools: a rip saw and a crosscut saw, respectively.

The difference between these tools boils down to the way the saw's teeth are designed. If you think of a piece of wood as a bundle of fibers, you start to get a feel for the needs of each saw. The rip saw's teeth are perpendicular to the blade and act like chisels, actually shaving wood away during the cut. Crosscut saws, on the other hand, have angled teeth which are made to cut through the fibers.

So how do you buy just the right saw? There are a lot of options on the market, from an inexpensive Stanley crosscut ($15-$20) to a wallet-crushing Wenzloff & Sons rip saw ($250-$300). The best thing to do is ask around about which saws people like. As anyone who's ever shopped for tools knows, there's also a lot to be said about getting the saw in your hands before purchasing it. You just might find that the $25 saw has a better feel than the $150 version.

The more expensive saws will likely have a cleaner cut and longer life. However, as long as you keep your saw out of the rain and protect the teeth, any one out there should last a number of years. It's also a good idea to give the blade a light oil rub every now and then.

If you're interested in a little history on these saws, the Disstonian Institute is an obsessively complete catalog of the wonderful and arcane saws that were produced by one of the best known manufacturers of the tool.

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In the Workshop: Claw Hammers

Doug Mahoney — 2010-03-23T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

A claw hammer. Photo: Getty

When it comes to tools, it doesn't get much more basic than the hammer. Essentially, a hammer is a stick with a weight on one end that's good for pounding things. However, once you get past that rudimentary concept, the subtleties of design that exist today between one type of hammer and another are vast.

That being said, there is one hammer that pretty much defines the category and is a necessity in any basic tool kit: the claw hammer.

A claw hammer is your standard carpentry hammer. One end of the head is used primarily for pounding nails, the other, for pulling them out. If you're in the market for a claw hammer, you've got a few decisions to make.

First, do you want a large 22 oz framing hammer, a smaller 12 oz finish hammer, or something in the middle? If you're looking for a general out-at-the-workbench hammer, I'd suggest something in the 16 oz range. Think twice about the whole "bigger is better" idea and steer clear of the massive framers. I made that mistake with my first hammer and bought something that is so large it could double as a sledgehammer. It has remained virtually unused for about 10 years. The smaller 12 oz hammers are nice, but they lack the weight for aggressive projects like framing.

Second, do you want a metal handle, a wood handle, or a fiberglass handle? Wood handles provide very good shock absorption and have a nice, traditional feel in your hand. Fiberglass handles also provide good absorption and usually have some kind of molded grip on them. Hammers, like the ones that Estwing makes, consist of a single solid piece of metal with a rubbery grip. Because of this construction, they are indestructible and you'll never have to replace handle, like you might with a wooden handled hammer.

As far as the shock absorption goes, my experience is that it's only noticeable if you're using the hammer everyday for an extended period of time, like if it's your job to frame houses. I'm a carpenter and use my Estwing everyday and have never once thought about the vibrations. A quality claw hammer will usually be in the $20 range, but you could spend as much as $200 on one.

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In the Workshop: Circular Saws

Doug Mahoney — 2010-03-19T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Corbis

If you're just setting up your workshop, your initial tool purchase should definitely include a circular saw. (And if you already have a workshop, this tool is a must-have.) The circular saw is the best all-around cutting tool: compact, powerful, and versatile.

There are two styles of circular saw on the market; the sidewinder and the worm drive. The mechanics of the sidewinder are set up so that the motor sits next to the blade and spins it in a direct fashion.

Sidewinder circular saw. Photo: Amazon

The worm drive, on the other hand, has the motor located to the rear of the blade, with the transfer of power coming through a worm drive gear. Because of the gearing, worm drive saws don't have the blade speed of sidewinders, but they make up for it with overall power. Worm drives are also heavier and a little more difficult to manage than the sidewinder. If you're looking for your first saw, I'd say stick with the sidewinder.

Amazon

Sidewinder saws are available for as little as $35; worm drives start at about $100. Since this tool is the cornerstone of any serious DIY project and will likely end up being one of the most used items in your workshop, I'd recommend splurging for a saw that retails for at least $80 range. The tool will pay for itself quickly. After you have it for a few years, it'll probably work out to about 2 cents per cut.

Before you buy a circular saw, make sure to go to a store and get your hands on a few different models. Get a feel for things like weight, balance, and handle position. Also check out the footplate. It's likely that the saw will take a few spills over the course of its lifetime, so you don't want a flimsy metal footplate that will easily bend.

The primary safety concern with circular saws is kickback. This is when the blade binds up in the wood, and because of the blade rotation, the saw ejects back, usually toward the user. To help prevent this and other catastrophes, follow these safety tips:

- Always wear safety glasses. If you don't, you're really just asking for it. Oh, and squinting while you cut isn't going to do anything to protect your eyes.

- Do not take a coat hanger and wire your blade guard in the up position in order to work faster (it's insane, but we've seen it done).

- Keep two hands on the tool only when the workpiece is secured. Otherwise, keep a hand on the board.

- Try to position yourself so that your body is not directly behind the blade. If the blade kicks back, it's less likely to find you.

- Don't force the blade.

SEE ALSO:

Craftsman Mini Circular Saw (Charles & Hudson)
History of the Circular Saw (Ask Tool Talk)

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In the Workshop: 5 FAQs About Nails

Doug Mahoney — 2010-03-17T09:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Getty Images

If you think that all nails are created equal, think again. There are about as many different types of nails as there are species of wood. There are roofing nails, brad nails, joist hanger nails, finish nails, copper nails, and ring-shank nails, to name a few.

Here are answers to five of the most frequently asked questions about the original -- and greatest -- fastener.

What's a 16d nail?
This one dates back to 15th century England. The number designates how many pennies it took to purchase 100 nails. According to the Online Etymology Dictionary, the 'd' derives from the Roman denarius, which was a silver coin back in the day. In today's world, the term "penny" indicates the length of the nail, with the nail size going up 1/4" per penny. A 4d nail is 1 1/2", a 5d nail is 1 3/4" and so on. The pattern breaks down with 12d and 16d sizes (3-1/4" and 3-1/2" respectively), but it's good for the smaller sizes.

Galvanized nails. (Fotosearch)

What are Galvanized Nails?
"Galvy" nails, as they're sometimes called, are covered in a zinc coating that prohibits rust and deterioration -- making them perfect for outdoor applications, such as decks. And while it's never a good idea to hold any nails in your mouth, it's a particularly bad idea with galvanized ones because you'd be absorbing potentially poisonous zinc.

What's a common nail and what's a box nail?
While the term "penny" indicates length, the words "common" and "box" are used to identify the diameter of the nail. The actual difference between the two varies for each penny (d) size, but what you need to know is that box nails are the smaller size and common nails are the larger size. Thus, a 16d common nail is going to be beefier than a 16d box nail.

Ring shank nails. (Fotosearch)

When should I use ring shank nails?
Ring shank nails are ideal in a situation where you don't ever plan on removing the nail. Ring shank nails have a series of ridges along the nail shaft which give the fastener a tremendous amount of holding power. Nails hold in place with friction and ring shanks add a 'wedge' quality to the mix. Because they're so difficult to remove, they're great for sub-floors, exterior trim, and siding.

Finishing nails. (Fotosearch)

What makes a finishing nail so special?
Finishing nails have little or no head on them, making them perfect for occasions when the nail will be visible on the finished product. Because of this minimal head, once the nail is driven flush to the wood, it can be further recessed with an instrument known as a nail set. Once this is done, it's easy to patch the indentation with a little wood putty and then make it completely disappear with a coat of paint.

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In the Workshop: Utility Knives

Doug Mahoney — 2010-03-16T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Getty Images

On any given work day, my utility knife is opening boxes, cutting plastic sheeting, trimming shims, cutting drywall and laminates, sharpening my pencil, and likely scraping dried joint compound off my putty knife. The list of its regular achievements goes on and on. In fact, it might be the most important tool I own. It's a simple item, but there are a few key things to look for when buying one.

The first is make sure that the blade is retractable. Every once in a while I see someone with the kind that has the blade always sticking out and I just hold my head in my hands. It's a razor blade -- and in addition to it being one of the most useful tools, it's also one of the most dangerous. I should know; I've worn a lot of band aids in my time as a carpenter, thanks to carelessness with my utility knife.

If you don't like the kind with the retractable blades, there are also knives that flip open, so that when it's not in use, the blade is covered. My only problem with this flip style is that the design usually gets in the way of my second requirement, which is blade storage. I won't even look at a knife unless I can keep four or five extra blades in the handle.

With a lot of common tasks like cutting drywall or cement board, you end up going through blades like tissues. And I make sure to stay away from the knives that you have to open up with a screwdriver in order to get at the extra blades. The whole thing usually ends up falling apart and is a hassle to get it back together. If you're buying a knife, my advice is to try to find one that has a little flip up blade storage compartment at the rear of the handle.

X-Acto Snap-Off Blade Utility Knife. Blick Art Materials

Another style of knife is the kind with the segmented, or snap-off, blades. These are great because you can extend the blade a couple inches out and make a nice flush cut against a smooth surface, making them ideal for cutting out old caulking. Because the blade is segmented, when the edge gets dull, just take a pair of pliers and snap it off (always were safety glasses when you do this), and you're good to go.

Good utility knives are available for as little as $5, but can get closer to the $15 range if you start getting into molded grips and wire stripping notches.

For your safety, always use caution when working with a utility knife:

- Always pull the knife toward you, slowly, in short strokes. Pulling the knife gives you more control than pushing it.
- Wear safety glasses when operating a utility knife, as it can send shards of material into your eyes.
- Keep your fingers away from the blade's path at all times.
- Never take your eyes off of the blade.
- Remember to retract the blade as soon as you're done using the knife -- even if you expect to use it again in a few minutes.

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