DIY Life

Build a Natural Privacy Fence With Trees & Hedges

Francesca Clarke — 2011-04-25T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: seasonal, landscaping, outdoor, Outdoors

Forget the picket fence: These all-natural options can get higher, look better and make your neighbors jealous (while hiding your backyard from them). Here's how to make it happen in your yard.

CascadeAndSTAN, Flickr

One of my favorite springtime activities is doing the neighborhood garden walk to see what new and wonderful things people are doing with their yards. It's a great way to gather new ideas for my own home and a bit of eye-candy that's not too out of reach. Recently, I've noticed that people are choosing privacy hedges and privacy shrubs in addition to or instead of fences.
Instead of knocking on doors and asking people how they got the look, I turned to J. Mark White, ASLA, president of DC-based GardenWise for his expert advice on privacy hedges and shrubs.

While we often think of fences as the standard way to create privacy, they are not necessarily the best choice. Fences are an expensive solution and are restricted in height by local codes -- typically six feet which often isn't enough to achieve the desired privacy or shield your view of unsightly surroundings.

White suggests strategically placed hedges, trees and shrubs to create a privacy screen. Your privacy hedge will look different depending on the amount of time you have, your climate, housing situation and preference, but there are options for everybody.

If you have a few years to grow the privacy screen, White suggests going with bamboo -- which also serves as a sound barrier. Running Bamboo is one of the fastest growers on earth, reaching heights of 25-30 feet in just a few years. But before you plant, beware: Running Bamboo is highly invasive, and it will take over your garden space if you don't control the spread of its roots. Mark suggests installing underground barriers 24-36" deep to successfully prevent the roots from traveling away from your bamboo area; rolls of thick plastic for this purpose can be purchased at any garden center."

A stunning bamboo privacy fence.

If you need something less invasive, choose Green Panda Bamboo. Green Panda is a clump form of bamboo and has slow spreading roots. Plus, the clumps are attractive and can be used as a focal point.

If you live in a colder climate, Black Bamboo is a strong option. Native to Taiwan and China, it can withstand temperatures to -4F. The new canes emerge green and turn ebony black within two years.

Say you just don't have a few years to wait and need privacy, now. Maybe one morning you wake up to find the cute home next door is being leveled to make way for a much larger home and your six foot high fence might not provide the level of privacy it once did. In this case, you'll want to keep your existing fence and add height above it. White suggests the Upright European Hornbeam, which is a stately tree with gray branches and trunk. It has glossy green foliage and produces interesting strings of yellow-brown fruits in fall. It's also a tough plant that will tolerate urban conditions.

Tall trees that are pruned high are also great for small spaces -- and leave homeowners the option to plant under the tree, adding more visual interest. Some other small upright ornamental trees to consider for a tight situation: Okame Cherry and the Japanese Snowbell. The Okame Cherry is one of spring's earliest flowering trees, producing gorgeous pink blossoms. The Japanese Snowbell has dark green foliage in summer and turns mildly yellow to red in fall. Flowers are white; less than an inch wide and bell-shaped with a mild fragrance. With three to six flowers on a stalk, they're extremely beautiful.

Corbis

If you're thinking even longer term, upright evergreens will serve you well. Some good choices include the Emerald Green Arborvitae. White tells us that "They belong to the cypress family, grow to 14 feet high and three to four feet wide, and can be easily pruned in spring -- before the new growth appears -- to fit your garden space." The Emerald Green Arborvitae has an upright shape and it stays dark green year round. If you're not worried about space, the Red-tipped Photinia will provide complete privacy. It is a broad leaf evergreen that flowers in the spring. If needed, this beautiful tree can be pruned in the spring after it flowers, to accommodate tighter situations.

When I was growing up, we had holly growing all along the back fence. White says that this is a great choice for small spaces and can be kept pruned tightly as a more formal hedge.

A well planned privacy fence also functions as the backdrop to the rest of your garden, adding color, texture and new scents to your outdoor space. White recommends that, space providing, you stagger the shrubs, using different heights for a more natural effect. He explains that this is also a good strategy in case a plant dies because it is less obvious.

"The back row should have the tallest plants -- that will create the screen. The middle row should have medium-height plants, such as a smaller deciduous shrubs like the Annabelle Hydrangea, which will offer texture contrast and offer summer color. The front row should be composed of your shortest plants and evergreen ground cover, such as variegated Liriope, which is grass-like and has the added feature of a late summer spiky lavender colored flower," explains White. "Another striking effect I like is to use the purple coneflower and the Russian sage against the pendulous white blossoms of the hydrangea. Unity in an outside space is the best way to quickly provide a stimulating visual."

Feeling excited about getting your own privacy fence up? Tell us what you're planning in the comments! Or if you still have gardening on the brain, check out..

Apartment Gardening: Turn a Filing Cabinet Into a Planter
Spring Gardening: Get Your Garden Ready
Slow Gardening 101

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

How to Disguise Glass-Front Kitchen Cabinets

Francesca Clarke — 2011-04-22T08:03:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects

If you, like our writer despise your glass-fronted kitchen cabinets but aren't ready to bring in new doors, here's a few ways to give them a new look.

We didn't agonize over cabinet choices. We loved the house, and I never gave the kitchen cupboards much thought - until I moved in that is. Photo: Getty

I'm just going to come right out and say it: My glass front kitchen cabinets are just plain stupid. Seriously. This isn't a china cabinet or a living room display case, this is a kitchen cabinet, and in my kitchen I need function.

I know that in theory, the glass makes a small kitchen feel larger. But the result in my home is the opposite: It looks crammed, messy and pretty much the opposite of spacious.

But maybe it's just me: I've seen glass front cabinets work in some homes. If you have an abundance of cupboard space, go ahead -- display a few pottery dishes, decorative plates or wine glasses. When we first moved in, I had my best dishes in the display cupboard. But as our need for functional space expanded, my growing collection of mix-matched dishes migrated into that glass front cupboard for everyone to see. Now, there's a teetering stack of bowls, cups of every size, tacky coffee mugs and various dinner plates in there. Does it sound attractive? It is not.

And say you're a better person than me and your matchy-matchy dishes are always display-ready. Even if you manage to keep the inside of your cupboard clean, the outside will still be plagued with finger prints and will serious dust. Hardly appealing.

For now, I'm stuck with my glass front cabinets. And if you're in the same boat, join me in trying out these makeover ideas to make them easier to live with.

Photo Credit: Getty Images

Here are a few simple ways to convert the see-through front and achieve a bit more privacy:

Glass Cabinet Rescue #1: Apply a Stained Glass Applique
This solution couldn't be more simple. Stained glass appliques are available at most hardware stores and come in a huge variety of colors and patterns -- including a frosted glass look, if you're into that. Buy a standard size or trim it to fit, stick it on and you're done.

Glass Cabinet Rescue #2: Paint a Functional Finish
If you're feeling a little funky, try chalkboard or whiteboard paint and use your cupboard front as a message board. Just make sure to include a cute message in there every once in awhile along with the standard "Buy milk!"

Glass Cabinet Rescue #3: Cover it With Fabric or Wallpaper
This is an interesting choice because it lets you change your kitchen's look with the seasons (or your mood!). Simply tape the fabric or wallpaper to the inside of the glass cupboard door and play with new color and pattern themes.

Are you in a small space with glass cupboards doors? How do you manage?

And check out these other kitchen makeover ideas!
Family Kitchen Makeover: From "Ugliest" to Unbelievable
Painting Furniture: 3 Kitchen Tables Get a Makeover
Modern Kitchen Makeover

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

How to Dust -- Spring Cleaning Guide

Francesca Clarke — 2011-03-04T17:32:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Keep your home clean and allergen free with this room-by-room guide to how to dust.

glasseyes view, Flickr

You know you've been there: Just when you think your house is clean, a beam of sunlight comes across the living room, highlighting all those dust particles dancing in the air, just waiting to settle on every available surface.

Even the tidiest homes collect dust: tiny but solid particles from the surrounding environment, like hair, dirt, dead skin, decomposing insect carcasses, and other nasties. One of the big contributors to household dust is the dust mite, which feeds on organic debris such as dead skin cells and decomposing insects. Dust mites and their excrement are highly allergenic. Read more about dust mites (if you dare!) the Ohio State University Net Wellness site.

Some homes have more of a tendency toward dust build-up than others. Here are some of the contributing factors, plus tips on how to dust properly:

DIME-STORE FEATHER DUSTERS
Synthetic feather dusters just disturb the dust, making the surface appear clean, but it quickly settles again as if you'd never dusted. If you love traditional dusters, get a good quality ostrich feather duster and maintain it properly so it stays in top shape. Otherwise, use a microfiber cloth, which leaves no traces of dust behind.

OPEN WINDOWS AND DOORS
This is an obvious one -- and it's hard to avoid in the summer, especially if you're averse to air conditioning -- but If you leave your home open, it is more likely to collect dust. Pet dander, insects, pollen and dirt all come in from the outdoors. If you're a sucker for fresh summer air, you might have to learn to live with dust.

DIRTY DUCTS AND FILTERS
Construction is very dusty business. Some builders have the ducts cleaned before the home is sold, but others don't, meaning that drywall dust, fiberglass and other construction debris might be trapped in the air ducts. Even older homes that are surrounded by new construction are likely to experience this to some degree as debris makes its way inside the house. Duct cleaning is arguably unnecessary unless the home has recently been under construction, because the actual ducts should be a dust-free environment. Still, many believe that regularly cleaning them will improve air quality as dust particles may have become trapped inside. Change or clean furnace and air conditioner filters regularly because if they are dirty, they will blow dust into the home. Many people opt for hypoallergenic air filters to further maintain the air quality in their homes.

Getty Images

DOGS AND CATS
Pet dander is a big dust contributor. Pets are also more likely to track in dirt and pollen, contributing further to the dust accumulation. Brush and bathe your pets regularly to limit the amount of shedding.

Getty Images

OLD FURNITURE UPHOLSTERY AND HEAVY CURTAINS
Broken down fabric fibers and dust mites feeding on organic debris in couches and chairs cause these old furnishings to attract dust. Wash all household fabrics (curtains, bedding, couch covers, cushions etc..), regularly, depending on their use, with bedding being washed once each week. Heavy curtains attract and trap dust; replacing them with lighter, airier ones will significantly reduce dust buildup.

CARPETING AND RUGS
Wall to wall carpeting is a dust magnet. Make sure to vacuum at least once a week, and empty your vacuum bag each time. Even a partially full vacuum bag can blow dust back into the room. If you're thinking of remodeling, consider replacing carpeting with tile, wood or laminate flooring, and use an area rug instead. Area rugs can be easily cleaned by beating them regularly outdoors. Also, wipe down baseboards, which quickly accumulate dust. This will keep the floor dust-free almost twice as long.

SEE ALSO:
How to Make Swiffer Sweeper Pads
How to Make Eco-Friendly Furniture Polish

HOW TO REMOVE DUST MITES
Did you know that you're living with millions of uninvited guests? Here's help for outsmarting those dirty dust mites.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

How I Learned to Disinfect the Kitchen - DIY Diary

Francesca Clarke — 2011-02-11T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Products & Materials, Essential Skills, Know-How

Desperate for an alternative to smelly, germ-filled kitchen towels and sponges, our writer discovers antibacterial dishcloths -- and a bunch of other easy ways to disinfect the kitchen.

Photo Credit: SuperL, flickr

I have three small children, so a game of "what's that smell?" is not uncommon in our home. A sippy cup hiding in the toy box or forgotten snacks in the backpack are typical culprits. But often, that smell could be traced back to the kitchen sink.

Within a day or two, a perfectly fresh dishcloth can turn into something icky, slimy, stinky and disgusting. Even if I stay on top of the situation, all it takes is one child cleaning up spilled milk and not rinsing the cloth -- or worse, hiding it somewhere, only to be found later during another epic game of "what's that smell?" -- to set off my olfactory alarm. It had gotten to a point where smelly dishcloths were taking over my kitchen and it was driving me crazy. I'd even thrown out a few particularly rank towels just to avoid dealing with them.

It wasn't just the embarrassing smell that eventually got to me, but also the idea of how truly unhygienic it was to have these nasty cloths in my kitchen. In a report by the Hygiene Council - a panel of the world's leading microbiologists and virologists, kitchen towels are notorious for harboring and spreading bacteria. According to George Szatmari, a microbiologist at Mcgill University, "the kitchen sink is 6,000 times more contaminated than the average toilet". Ew.

snacktime2007, Flickr

This kind of thing can make a person sick -- literally. Even small amounts of bacteria, particularly those transfered from the foods we prepare, can lead to illness. And let's not leave sponges out of this equation -- those soggy germ incubators masquerading as cleaning tools. Sanitizing your dishcloths and sponges properly (or getting rid of them altogether!) is crucial to keeping bacteria away and maintaining a flu-free home.

So one day, on the advice of one very wise friend, I switched to antibacterial microfiber cloths in the kitchen. The change has had a tremendous impact on how I use my kitchen and how I feel about the cleanliness of my space.

The Norwex line of antibacterial cleaning cloths and kitchen cloths are my favorite. They work amazingly well, can stand up to my neglect, and actually come with a two-year warranty. They combine an environmentally friendly antibacterial silver-based agent with a typical microfiber cloth. The silver-based agent destroys the bacteria that it picks up, so you're not just transferring the problem; you're actually killing it. You can rinse out the cloth and use it over and over, which means less laundry to boot!

If you want a less expensive, store-bough solution, rumor has it that the Clorox brand cloth works wonders. (If you've tried them, let me know what you think!) The Clorox cloth works differently, but does the same job, using a patented coating that binds chlorine-based bleach to the cotton cloth. The bleach stops bacteria growth. Every time you rinse the cloth, the coating is reactivated so, like the Norwex cloth, you can use it repeatedly. Fewer green points here, but a far better solution than bleach sprays and disposable sponges.

Antibacterial dishcloths may have changed my entire kitchen experience, but they certainly aren't the only way to get a germ-free kitchen.

Here are five easy ways to disinfect your kitchen:

Getty Images

1. Get rid of that sponge. Seriously. Even if you've switched to antibacterial cloths, it's tempting to keep the sponge around, just in case. But a sponge is a hotbed of bacteria. You don't need it. If you simply must have a sponge in the kitchen, wash it properly and replace it regularly. You can heat a damp sponge in the microwave or run it through the dishwasher to kill the bacteria.

2. Stop using antibacterial hand soap. In an effort to get rid of bacteria, we run the risk of welcoming even stronger bacteria into our kitchens by using antibacterial soap. Proper handwashing is sufficient.

3. Keep the sink clean. Bacteria thrives in wet kitchen sinks and drains, so keep your sink clean by emptying it, wiping it down and drying it daily. Every week, give it a more complete cleansing by filling it with hot water and one cup of vinegar. Let it soak for an hour, rinse it out and dry it thoroughly.

4. Replace your plastic cutting board with a wooden board. It was once believed that the porous nature of a wooden cutting board would provide a dangerous breading ground for bacteria. But on the contrary, studies have shown that bacteria dies off quickly on wood surfaces. It remains -- and in fact multiplies -- on plastic surfaces. Remember to use separate boards for meat preparation.

5. Don't forget the can opener. It's easy to forget about the can opener because it doesn't get visibly dirty, but it's a great hideout for bacteria to grow. And speaking of neglected bacteria hotspots in the kitchen, don't forget your fridge door handle, microwave handle, coffee pot, and oven knobs.

For chemical-free ways to clean and disinfect your kitchen appliances, check out this video:

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Why I'm Against Catchall Containers - DIY Diary

Francesca Clarke — 2011-02-09T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Storage & Organization, Know-How

Are you guilty of collecting too much stuff? It may be because you buy too many catch-all containers to corral it all. Our writer blasts these inanimate clutter enablers.

PhotoCredit: Corbis

Like a lot of people, I collect way too much "stuff." My New Year's resolution is to take care of the clutter once and for all. Really, this time. I know it's February, but still, I'm determined.

I'm all for clever, useful storage solutions. In fact, I'm known to get a little overzealous in the presence of some of the latest and most stylish storage items (I mean, have you been to The Container Store lately?). But there is one that drives me crazy: the catchall container. To me, catchall containers are little more than glorified junk collectors.

Beware of the catch-all storage system: it can cause more chaos than good. Platinum, Flickr

Take for example, Merriam-Webster's definition of a catchall: Something that holds or includes odds and ends or a wide variety of things. And my definition: Any box, basket or other container that is intended to serve as a dumping spot for random junk.

Yet design magazines, websites and showrooms use catchalls as perfect accents and accessories for any room. Sure, they're attractive from a design perspective, but they lack real-world functionality. They only serve to give the buyer a false impression of utility. For instance, the basket featured in the entryway of a show home or the pages of a website stylishly houses an antique letter opener and small set of keys. But in your home, it ends up home to junk mail, receipts, odd mittens and any other bits of front door clutter.

Personally, I've used a variety of catchalls throughout my life: an old wooden crate, a crystal serving dish, pottery dishes, a big wooden bowl and some decorative boxes. The expanding containers eventually become so overwhelmed that I'm forced to stash them away in the basement. Plus, once I've tossed something in a catch-all, there's a good chance that it will never see the light of day again. Sure, catchalls might keep the junk off your floor and counter, but the concept just promotes moving a mess from one location to another, as opposed to actually dealing with it. Ultimately, this just creates a bigger mess, more stress and wasted time.

So why would organization gurus recommend a storage system that so clearly worsens (or at best delays) the problem instead of actually solving it? I asked an organization expert to weigh in on the catchall quandary.

"The concept of catchall containers is to collect items when you either enter the home or during a quick tidying up session," Dana H. Korey of Away With Clutter, Inc. explains. She acknowledges the key component to making a catchall basket system work is to periodically sort through it at least once a week and put items back where they belong. "If you don't, then the basket becomes a confined archaeological dig and you haven't solved any of your issues."

Apparently, the very disciplined among us can manage a catchall storage system that is routinely edited and emptied. I learned that to optimize the usefulness of catchalls, you should assign each container a specific category, instead of tossing random items into all of them without rhyme or reason. For example, place your bills in one container, toys in another, and junk mail in a third. With multiple containers designated to specific categories, you will know where things go if you are in need of a short-term "dump" before dashing in or out.

Ultimately, this makes cleaning and organizing easier when you actually get around to it. The caveat: you have to be disciplined enough to stick to the system.

Apartment Therapy

Maybe Dana's clients are more disciplined than myself, but I never sort until I need something -- and even then, the clutter doesn't actually get dealt with. Despite my disdain for catchalls, I've pared down my collection to a manageable few: a basket to collect keys, as well as magazine racks, toy bins, stationery baskets and other catchalls with clear designated purposes. But I've abandoned the catchalls that were accumulating random things and giving me an excuse to postpone actually organizing items.

Want to get rid of clutter in your home and save time? Here's my golden rule: handle everything once, and only once. This means you don't stack papers in a basket for sorting later. Instead, sort and file as soon as they come into the house.

What are your feelings about catchall containers? Let us know in the comments below.

And for more about clutter control, check out this short video:

SEE ALSO:
Magic Tricks of Professional Organizers
12 Ideas for Organizing with Baskets [HGTV]
Organizing Tip: Use Baskets [Apartment Therapy]

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Super Bowl Party? 'Fake Clean' Your House in a Hurry

Francesca Clarke — 2011-02-01T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Holidays, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Is your house ready for some football? Get your place prepared for your Super Bowl party with this short list of cleaning priorities.

Lew Robertson, Getty Images

It's Super Bowl time, which means plenty of football, food and, of course, people in your home. For some party hosts, this also entails spending the hours before kickoff scurrying around and stressing out to get the house guest-ready.

Instead of fumbling, try calling an audible: the "faking it" play. Forget the massive clean, and focus your energy on truly noticeable areas to create the illusion of a super pristine house. Here are the top five places where you can score the biggest points.

Photo: Getty Images

1. Clutter Zones
Try to put things in their place or hide them out of sight.

Why You Should Clean Them:
The most noticeable mess for guests is visible clutter on your home's surfaces: countertops, tables, shelves, ledges, floors and so on. It's easy to grow accustomed to piles that have accumulated: board games, newspapers, mail, even useful appliances spread out over the counters. Over time, you don't even notice them -- but your guests certainly do.

How to Clean Them:
Be ruthless about paring down items on flat surfaces. A large expanse of clutter-free surface instantly gives the appearance of tidiness.

If you don't have enough time to sort through the clutter, grab a container and scoop it all in. Stash the container in an area that you know guests won't see or enter, and deal with it later.

When you have a little more time, find a basket, a box, a garbage bag, and a big envelope. Toss all your "put away" items in the basket, your "give away" items in a box (that you can later take to the thrift store), your garbage in the bag and your important papers, such as unpaid bills, in the envelope.

RealEstateZebra, Flickr

2. The Entryway
Even the grandest entryway can become a giant eyesore if it's cluttered.

Why You Should Clean It:

A clean entryway will make a welcoming first impression for your guests. Your collection of giant parkas and big pile of boots may be easily accessible, but your guests will see it as a big mess as soon as they walk through the door.

How to Clean It:
Tackle overstuffed coat closets. The ideal entryway closet should have a few things hung neatly, and spare hangers waiting to receive guest coats. Remove excess jackets and shoes, and store them somewhere your guests won't enter.

Photo: Getty Images

3. Bathroom

The bathroom may seem like daunting territory to tackle when time is tight, but giving it some attention is an important step toward making a good impression.

Why Clean It:
When guests are using the bathroom, they'll have little to do but contemplate your cleaning ritual and judge the grime in your sink, on your tiles, and under the toilet bowl seat.

How to Clean It:
Speed cleaning a bathroom is an art. First, clear the counter of any clutter. Use pre-moistened towelettes to wipe down the counter, sink and faucets. Do the same for the toilet, then give the bowl a solid scrub. Make sure that mirror is clean and streak-free. Finally, empty the garbage can and change the hand towels. Add a few natural reed diffusers or

some fresh flowers for odor control.

Photo: Getty Images

4. Floors and Furniture
You'll want to pay close attention to the areas where your guests will be spending the most time.

Why Clean Them:

Your couch cracks don't have to be full of potato chip crumbs -- from last year's Super Bowl party -- to be noticeably dirty. Since guests will spend most of their time on your furniture, it's important to make sure these pieces are clean. Keep in mind that if seating is limited, some people might end up sitting on the floor, so clean floors will make an impact.

How to Clean Them:
Vacuum carpet and rugs, sweep and mop (or at least spot wash) hardwood floors and tile.

Flip your couch cushions, vacuum between them and spray a fabric deodorizer if necessary. Have a few cushions and cozy throw blankets on hand for those who end up settling on the floor.

Photo: Getty Images

5. Icky-Sticky 'Neglectables':

Consider how your guests will be using your home, and what they'll be picking up.

Why Clean Them:
If a guest picks up the remote control, they'll notice right away what you may not see: grime in the crevices. The same goes for your fridge, which a helpful (or hungry and thirsty) guest is bound to open. A full fridge is acceptable, but last week's syrup dripping down the inside door is not. What about those coasters? Do they stick together from previously spilled drinks? Guests should not have to clean anything before using it.

How to Clean Them:
Create a list of items that your guests will use in the home. Zero in on those items that might need a little extra TLC. Most things can be cleaned relatively easily, as vinegar and hot water solutions work wonders on the extra sticky solutions. Microfiber cloths prove to be saviors in dusty jobs. Walk through your home and pick out the things your guests will be using. Give them a quick wipe as you go.

SEE ALSO:
Wood Floors: Cleaning, Fixing, Maintaining
Super Bowl Table Decorations [Holidash]
Cleaning Tips for Those Short on Time [Apartment Therapy]

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Curb Appeal: Create a Winter Wonderland

Francesca Clarke — 2011-01-20T16:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

Curb appeal isn't just for the spring and summer anymore. These winter-friendly ideas are sure to warm up your home's facade when temperatures plummet.

Photo: Getty Images

Just because it's cold doesn't mean it's time to stop maintaining the front of your house. Winter curb appeal can take on its own delightful characteristics; you just need to know what you're doing and be deliberate about it.

Who better to guide us on landscape design and curb appeal then J. Mark White, Landscape Architect and President of DC-based Garden Wise, Inc who recently appeared on HGTV's Curb Appeal.

Jenn Foster from Jenn and Colin Real Estate shares with us some of the ways that she advises clients keep their homes looking fresh and attractive through the winter months.

Tidy up. First thing's first: That pile of boots at your door and the snow-covered toys laying around the front yard need to go. Then rake up pine needles, branches and other debris. Clean up and cut back any dead flowers in the garden beds. Wash your front-facing windows and sweep the porch. This quick cleanup will immediately freshen up the look of your home and get you ready to take on some of the more fun winter facelift projects.

Photos: 60 in 3, Flickr; Getty Images

Paint your front door. A fresh coat of paint in a color that contrasts well with the changing tones of each season will ensure your home's best lasting impression. Jenn recommends red, burgundy and plum hues. She suggests using color often to create interest, and stresses how important it is during these dark months when all gardens and greens have been cut back, covered or have lost their leaves.

Decorate and accessorize. Hang a wreath or other decorative addition on your front door. A wreath is fitting decor any time of year, a long as you dress it up differently depending on the season. Jen suggests that you highlight it with warm rusts, golds, browns and greens. You can take a simple wreath, spray paint it metallic and add a brightly colored ribbon for a striking front door.

Paint your fence. The fence should be the same color as your home's siding. This helps the fence blend in with the house's setting instead of stealing the focus.

Photo: Getty Images

Utilize outdoor lighting. Lighting is always important, but it is even more crucial on dark winter nights. Landscape lighting is practical, as it extends the use of your front yard into into the evening hours, and allows for safe passage for you and your guests. It is also a very purposeful design choice. J. Mark suggests that new LED lighting focused on some of your front garden accents can significantly change your home's evening appeal. The right lighting will make your house a warm gem that stands apart from the others on chilly winter evenings.

Use pots and planters. Place pots and planters near the front door to create a welcoming entry. J. Mark tells us, "Landscape designs are anchored by focal points." He says that an easy and fast way to add an element of focus to a front door is to frame it with symmetrically placed planters and deliberately chosen plants. J. Mark suggests a pair of cast stone or Italian Terra Cotta urns planted with an upright evergreen shrub. The Graham Blandy Boxwood, and other year round covers including variegated English and Glacier are all lovely choices. Colorful pots with winter blooms will also significantly change your curb appeal, adding a splash of color.

Jenn's creative alternatives add character. Baskets, galvanized buckets, and barrels all make interesting alternatives. She suggests adding willow branches, evergreen arrangements, branches with colorful leaves, and gourds creating your own arrangement.

Photo: Getty Images

Frame your garden. Use clean and attractive borders. According to J. Mark, "landscape borders play an important role in a home's curb appeal -- whether we're talking about the whole yard or just a planting bed; a defined area catches the eye more readily than one that is indistinguishable." Various curbing materials such as concrete, brick, stone and slate add definition to your garden area and help it look tidy even in the winter months.

J. Mark says, "walls and fences with a simple design and layout make an essential design statement as they frame your property." though he does mention that limiting the fencing or masonry improvements to key locations in your space will save time and money.

Sometimes a simple, well-placed pergola can create a welcoming path. Jenn urges clients to consider cultured stone as a less expensive option to natural stone and arrange them in a path leading to your front door. Remember, it's all about that focal point.

Mix up the hardware. Giant transformations from minor hardware changes aren't just for kitchens and bathrooms, the front of your house can use a hardware makeover too. A rubbed bronze door knob, a glossy black mailbox, or decorative house numbers are quick ways to freshen up your look.

Photo: Getty Images

Keep your home's character intact. Remember that interesting sculptures, benches, yard ornaments and other creative touches add personality and increase your curb appeal (providing that they are tastefully done).

Be a good neighbor and shovel your walk. Even the most beautiful home will make a poor impression if it looks like you're careless about your neighbor's comfort and safety.

Tip: J. Mark says, "Repeated use of rock salt to melt ice will damage and kill plants, and ruin an important part of your curb appeal. Salt will also change soil structure. If you (or your city) uses a lot of salt, be sure to thoroughly water your lawn, front flower beds, and landscape in the very early spring." Click here for eco-friendly alternatives to rock salt.

Psst...Our sister site ShelterPop is hosting a design challenge -- go vote for your favorite student-designed product!

Check out this video for more on improving curb appeal!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Holiday Arrangments: Moving Heavy Furniture for Entertaining

Francesca Clarke — 2010-12-21T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: organization and storage, cleaning, Big Projects, Storage & Organization, Holidays, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

What's more important than time during the holidays? Extra space! And when you want entertain family and friends over, it's the one thing you need most. With these tips for moving heavy furniture, you can have extra room in no time.

Getty Images

Couch
The best way to move a heavy couch is to use sliders, little plastic coasters that slide under the feet. Furniture sliders are disks with a low friction bottom, often felt. Found at your local hard ward store and available in a variety of sizes, furniture sliders are useful for moving furniture across any type of flooring. Magic Sliders makes sliders in many different sizes and for all kinds of heavy furniture.

Here's how to use them:

1. Carefully lift each foot of the sofa and place a slider underneath each leg with the smooth side facing the the floor.
2. Gently slide the couch out of the way.
3. Slide it back when you're finished and remove the sliders. These disks can be reused until the low friction side wears out.

Getty Images

Piano
Beautiful music, but oh-so-heavy! Usually it looks best in the middle of the space, but for accompanying carols, it's good to push the piano to the side of the room. Just be sure to leave enough room for guest to gather around. And like the couch, use sliders.

Antique Desk
High quality, real wood furniture is heavy and difficult to move. First, remove any drawers and clear it out completely. It's easier to deal with the shell, and replace the accessories later. If the desk has feet, furniture gliders work well. If the base is solid, and you don't have a four man team of muscle waiting around, you'll need to improvise.

1. Line all four corners with strips of felt.
2. Grab somewhere solid on the desk that is relatively low to the ground (to avoid tipping), and have a partner do the same to the other corner, pull the desk.
3. If you are working on your own, alternate corners, shimmying the desk. Lifting straps can also work in these situations.

just chaos, flickr

Bookshelf, Tall Dresser or China Cabinet
Take all the books off the shelves, and remove the shelves if possible. Empty the dresser drawers and take the drawers out. Empty the china cabinet, and remove any adjustable shelving. The lighter the load, the easier the job. There is an added risk of furniture damage and injury when working with tall items. A hand trolley works best for these jobs when the item in question has a flat bottom; here's how to use it safely:

Position the trolley against the wall if space provides.
Slide the trolley under the item, and tilt it toward yourself.
Using the trolley, move the piece away from the area you want.
Leave the trolley in place so you can use it easily to put the furniture back in place

New Year's Cleaning
Party time is over, and you'd like to start the new year with a super-clean house. Use these tips to move heavy appliances so you can clean underneath (and behind) them.

Refrigerator
Shimmy the fridge, moving it forward by carefully rotating it side-to-side. If you can recruit some help, it's good to have somebody working the other side. Do this slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the floor. You can spread some dish-soap on the floor to help it glide more easily, but be careful not to slip -- and remember to wipe it up after you're finished.

Washer and Dryer
Another great place for lost treasures! Don't throw out those odd socks just yet because your spring clean might uncover them behind the washer or dryer. The dryer is actually pretty light, so you can just empty it, unplug it and pull it out. Moving the washer is a bit more complicated, but not impossible. Here's how to move it:

1. Empty the washer completely.
2. Disconnect the drain hose.
3. Inch the washer away from the wall using small movements, as it's possible there is still water in the washer that larger movements could push out the drain pipe. Check to make sure the feet aren't damaging the floor as you go. 4. If the floor is vulnerable, use furniture sliders (see couch tips above). 5. Clean the floor, walls, baseboards and back of the appliances because it will be a year until you get to it again. 6. Replace the washer and reconnect it.
Any time you move heavy pieces, whether it's into a moving truck or just across the room, safety is a huge consideration. The best party or spotless laundry room isn't worth an injury. Proper lifting techniques, planning the move, and asking for help if you need it will ensure a successful move.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Remove Tree Sap from Carpet - The Daily Fix

Francesca Clarke — 2010-12-08T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: cleaning, Essential Skills, Holidays, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Tree sap stains on the carpet can be more than you bargained for when you decided on a live Christmas tree this year. Here are three of our favorite ways to remedy this sticky situation.

Remove tree sap from the carpet. Photo: Getty Images

Nothing says Merry Christmas like gingerbread, hanging wreaths, the smell of a fresh cut tree...and tree sap all over your carpet. Yes, sap. Everywhere. If you dragged in a freshly cut pine tree and accidentally left a trail of sap through your living room, you're probably feeling more panic than Christmas spirit right about now.

Tree sap is notorious for being tricky to remove. Here are a few ways to remove tree sap from your carpet.

Freeze the stained area with an ice cube. The hardened sap will be easier to pull or chip off. This won't remove what's left deep in the carpet fibers but will take care of the stickiest section.

Citra-Solv is a natural degreaser that can help lift off the excess sap. Drop some (undiluted) on the sap and let it sit for a minute. Wipe it away with a paper towel. Any degreaser should work; rub it in with a nylon brush for added cleaning power. As always, make sure you test any solution on a hidden area of carpet before using it in a more visible spot.

Vodka is both an adhesive remover and a stain remover so it's not such a stretch that this multi-purpose alcohol would work wonders to remove sap, the most adhesive stain of all.

Rubbing alcohol and/or hand sanitizer (which contains alcohol) can harden and help break up sap stains in carpet fibers pretty efficiently. Just soak a microfiber cloth and blot at the stain; don't rub too hard or you'll work the sap deeper into the fibers. Allow the sap to dry in between periods of blotting; this will make it easier to pick the sap out of the fibers.

We've also got you covered on how to set up and care for your tree.

Do you have any tricks for removing tree sap from the carpet? Share them in the comments!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Repair a Chipped Sink - The Daily Fix

Francesca Clarke — 2010-12-07T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects

In addition to general wear and tear, all it takes is a dropped hand cream jar or glass bottle to easily cause unsightly chips and cracks in a sink's surface. Fortunately, it's easy to repair a chipped sink yourself.

Don't let a chipped sink get you down. It's easy and inexpensive to repair a sink yourself. Photo: house of bamboo, Flickr

Chipped sinks that are left uncared for can eventually rust, leading to a problem that's bigger than just a cosmetic imperfection. Luckily, with a little DIY elbow grease, you can fix surface damage without the hefty cost of replacing the sink or hiring a professional to repair. Here's how to make chips and cracks virtually disappear.

HOW TO REPAIR AN ENAMEL SINK
Enamel repair is a relatively simple task. After your sink is washed and dried, remove any rust by sanding down the chipped area. Then, apply rubbing alcohol to the sanded area and let the sink dry completely. Once dry, apply a filler/hardener epoxy compound (available at your local hardware store) with a razor blade to fill the chip. Fill it in the same manner you would fill a hole in the wall, scraping it flush with the sink and wiping away any excess epoxy. While the epoxy is drying, fix any rough edges with a cotton swab dipped in nail polish remover. Allow the epoxy to dry for about 24 hours before you use the sink, and don't scrub the repaired area for at least a week.

HOW TO REPAIR A PORCELAIN SINK

While porcelain sinks have beautiful finishes, they are very fragile and vulnerable to damage. The process for repairing a porcelain sink is the same as that of enamel, but in many cases you can simply just get a porcelain sink repair kit from your local hardware store. The kit includes instructions and porcelain paint available in different colors to match your sink. If you're matching a difficult hue, you can combine colors for a more precise match. Also, check with the sink's manufacturer to see if they offer touch up paint.

HOW TO REPAIR A VITREOUS CHINA SINK
Vitreous china sinks have a high-gloss, stain-resistant surface, and are the least likely to chip. Though this material is durable, abrasive cleaners can cause pitting. Two or three coats of epoxy applied on surface can restore smoothness. Even out the epoxy compound in the same way you would for enamel or porcelain.

The process used for repairing sinks, can also be used for fixing chips in enamel, porcelain and vitreous china toilets and bathtubs. Note that bigger chips might be more difficult to repair. Fixing these yourself can run a greater risk of magnifying imperfections, such as a sloppy fill or off-color paint. If the chip or crack is significant in size, consider replacing the sink or calling in a professional.

SEE ALSO:
How to Fix a Leaky Faucet
Remove Rust from Stainless Steel
Space-Saving Bathroom Sinks (ShelterPop)
Choosing the Right Kitchen Sink (DIY Network)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Help -- I Put Regular Soap in the Dishwasher!

Francesca Clarke — 2010-11-29T14:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects

Oops -- instead of detergent, you put dish soap in the dishwasher. The result? A sudsy mess. Now what?

How to make a bigger mess than the one you're trying to clean up: Put regular soap in the dishwasher. Photo: tidefan, Flickr

Who would make the mistake of putting regular dish soap in the dishwasher? My husband, that's who. Don't get me wrong, my husband is a really smart guy. And to be fair, the details of who caused the messy incident are still up for debate in our home. But details aside, somebody put regular soap in the dishwasher, and we didn't notice until the suds were spilling out the appliance's door and onto the kitchen floor.

Has this happened to you? Maybe you didn't even use the wrong soap. You could have just left a bowl to soak with dish soap in the sink and didn't rinse it well enough before putting it in the dishwasher. Maybe you didn't know that regular dish soap could have disastrous results in the dishwasher. Whatever the reason, it really doesn't matter. What counts is the solution to this sudsy mess, which I'm here to help you with.

Here's a simple and natural solution to this dishwasher disaster:

- Cool the water by gathering all the ice cubes you have in the freezer and tossing them into the bottom of the dishwasher. If it's winter and some snow has accumulated outside, scoop some up and dump it in there.

- Scoop out as much of the soapy suds as you can. You'll never get them all, so clear out what you can with your hands and a sponge, and let the next few steps work for you.

- Sprinkle salt on the suds. Regular table salt will do.

- Pour some vinegar into the suds. Use white vinegar -- the kind you'd use for cleaning.

- Turn your dishwasher on and run a quick rinse cycle.

- Scoop out any more suds that have formed during the cycle.

- Run the dishwasher's mini-cycle a few more times. The first time or two, monitor things so that the suds don't get out of control. The vinegar and salt should control this.

Once you run a clean mini-cycle without and suds forming, your problem should be solved and you can go ahead and run a regular load.

Ever have a dishwasher disaster? Share your story -- and your solution -- in the comments.

SEE ALSO:
How to Install a Dishwasher
Unusual Things You Can Put in the Dishwasher
Homemade Dishwasher Detergent (Tipnut)
Best Dishwashing Detergents (Real Simple)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Flu-Proof Your Home

Francesca Clarke — 2010-11-25T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: health and wellness, Kitchen & Bath, Essential Skills, Contests, Know-How

With flu season upon us, symptoms such as fevers, aches, sluggishness and coughing could be in your near future. Make your home a safe haven from seasonal sickness (including swine flu) with 10 tips to keep it germ-free.

Photo: Getty Images

Yes, flu season is here. No matter where you go it seems somebody's coughing and sneezing and spreading germs. Your children might bring it home from school or you could pick it up at work. Either way, avoiding the flu can be quite tricky this time of year. Further complicating matters, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention predicts it is likely the H1N1 virus (commonly known as swine flu) will continue to spread again along with seasonal viruses.

So how do you protect yourself? Of course there are time-honored strategies such as getting your flu vaccine. But you can step up your guard even more by creating a flu-free zone. Here are 10 ways to flu-proof your home and keep germs and bacteria at bay.

Photo: KCanard, Flickr

1. Keep a Clean Mop
Gone ages without really cleaning your mop? You may think dipping it in soapy water will do the trick, but that's far from being the case. Unless you sanitize between uses, you're just spreading germs around the house -- not killing them. Instead opt for disposable mop pads, which is a preferred and easy method to achieve truly germ-free floors. If this goes against your eco-conscience and frugal ways, make sure to sanitize your reusable mop at a very high temperature after each use. It is also recommended that you have separate mops for each area of the home. This will help prevent the spread of germs from one room to another.

2. Stock the Bathroom
Be prepared for flu season with a fully stocked bathroom. Make sure that extra soap, tissues, and an abundance of disposable hand towels are readily available. If you prefer to use cloth instead of paper towels, take care to wash towels frequently to keep germs at bay. Also, bathroom soap should be within reach so that children don't take shortcuts when it comes to hand washing.

3. Check Your Cleaning Products
Choosing the right cleaning products has become an overwhelming exercise for many of us. We're constantly balancing our "green" intentions, the health of our families and the need for a good deep clean. But if you have an affinity for natural cleaning solutions, it's important to note that they may not work as effectively. According to University of Arizona, microbiologist CharIes Gerba, these natural alternatives often work slower and kill fewer germs than products that have passed muster with the Environmental Protection Agency. For your reference, the EPA has a list of 500 antimicrobial products that disinfect surfaces against the flu, including common household cleaners such as Clorox and Lysol. Be on the lookout for the word "disinfect" or "sanitize" on the label, as this is an indication that the product has been tested and officially approved as a germ killer.

Photo: Horia Varlan, Flickr

4. Sanitize Your Sponges
Sponges harbor some nasty germs -- even if you regularly rinse them after each use. Ideally you should replace your sponge every couple of weeks. For a more budget-friendly approach, throw it in the microwave. Sanitizing in the microwave for two minutes will kill 99 percent of all the living germs and the bacteria in sponges and scrubbing pads. Before you zap your sponge or scrubber in the microwave, make sure it is wet and does not contain steel or other metals. Alternatively, you can also run it in the dishwasher to eradicate germs.

Photo: Nelson Minar, Flickr

5. Choose Copper
If your house is up for a makeover, opt for a vintage look by adding a touch of copper, bronze or brass to your home. Not only trendy, copper and copper alloys are also natural bacteria killers. If a sink replacement is not in your future budget, opting for affordable copper door knobs or switch plates can help ward off the flu bug as well.

Photo: William Hook, Flickr

6. Clean Your Desk
Desktop surfaces have 400 times more bacteria than a toilet. That's some pretty gross stuff. Disinfecting your desk weekly can reduce your exposure to cold and flu bugs by 50 percent. Your computer keyboard is a magnet for grime and bacteria, so disinfecting your keyboard is crucial in maintaining a flu-free home this season.

7. Sanitize your phone and remote control
Similar to the computer keyboard, remote controls and telephones are hotbeds for germs. Since viruses spread quickly via people coming into contact with items a sick person has touched, cleaning off items your hands frequently touch is vital. You can even go high-tech and use the UV Cell Phone Sanitizer (VIOlight, $50), which employs the power of UV light to wipe your device clean of 99.9% of germs and bacteria on cell phones, and other small electronic devices in three minutes.

8. Handle Your Laundry With Care
According to Health.com, a load of wet laundry is covered in potentially harmful bacteria. Just one soiled undergarment can spread E. coli on your hands and to the entire load. To reduce the risk, especially if someone is sick in your home, run your washer at 150 degrees and dry for at least 45 minutes in the dryer. After washing any soiled item (or anything belonging to the infected person) run a cycle of bleach and water in between loads.

9. Humidify Your Home
Promote a flu-free environment by using a humidifier. "It seems that [the influenza virus's] ability to survive and be transmitted person-to-person is greatly affected by how dry or wet the air is," says Jeffrey Shaman, PhD, of Oregon State University in Corvallis. While increasing the humidity level will make it harder for viruses to thrive and multiply, make sure you clean humidifiers regularly. Otherwise you'll have another breeding ground for bacteria on your hands.

10. Preach About Washing Your Hands
It's an oldie but a goodie: regularly washing your hands is the best protection against the flu. Take the time to teach young children about the importance of proper handwashing, including when to wash frequently, how long and the health benefits of clean hands.

SEE ALSO:
Things You Can Put in the Dishwasher
Swine Flu Proof Your Home (ShelterPop)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Make Space in the Holiday Refrigerator

Francesca Clarke — 2010-11-23T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Holidays, Crafts & Celebrations

Raise your hand if your holiday refrigerator is more overstuffed than the turkey itself. Two professional organizers give us valuable tips for creating ample space for the entire feast.

Photo: kpwerker, Flickr

I love hosting holiday dinners. It never fails though -- I forget to bring out something that I'd planned on serving. It might be as simple as some special olives I bought and forgot about in the back of the fridge, or as significant as an entire side dish I made from scratch. Either way, something always gets swallowed up by my bottomless, overstuffed holiday fridge.

This year, though, I decided to make a change. With the help of Laura McHolm and Julia Rivard -- two professional organizers (who are members of the National Assocation of Professional Organizers, or NAPO ) -- I'm making ample space in the fridge and planning for a stress-free holiday meal. Laura and Julia gave me tips for staying streamlined from start to finish. Here's some of what they shared.

- Stop grocery shopping a few days before the big event. Over the next few days, use up as much as you can and don't replace it. Make a mystery meatloaf if you have to by tossing in those containers of leftovers, half a jar of sauce and vegetables that are nearing their end of life.

- Empty the entire fridge before you shop for the holiday meal. Take everything out. Yes, everything. Hopefully you've emptied it pretty well over the past few days of creative meal making, but now it's time to deal with what's left. Laura, who's an organizational expert and co-founder of NorthStar Moving, suggests you organize by categories: "Keep", "Give Away", and "Throw Away." Check expiration dates and toss all expired food. And that salad dressing you bought, used once and didn't like? That goes too. If it's taking up room and you don't use it, trash it or give it away.

- Clean your fridge by wiping down the shelves and drawers while it's empty.

- When it comes time to put things back in the fridge be judicious about what makes the cut. If you have a spare fridge, relocate large items there. You can free up even more space by letting your butter go au natural and leaving it out on the counter. Your cheese will survive out of the fridge too! Here's a helpful list of other items we commonly put in the refrigerator that don't necessarily need to be there (or can at least manage a few days on the outside):

- Fresh fruit and vegetables
- Vinegar
- Soy sauce
- Peanut butter (unless it's natural peanut butter)
- Ketchup
- Syrup (unless it's 100% maple syrup)
- Steak sauce and hot sauce
- Coffee
- Bread
- Potatoes
- Pickles
- Filtered water
- Unopened salad dressings or other doubles you might have waiting in the fridge
- Baking soda (unless, of course, you're using it to absorb fridge odor)
- Canned and bottled beverages (relocate these to an ice chest so guests can access them easily and they don't take up space in the fridge)

- Combine like items. If you have two half open sauces, mix them together. Make sure you mark it with the earliest expiration date to avoid confusion later. Downsize big containers into smaller ones wherever possible. You may even be able to reduce some items to a ziplock bag, freeing up all kinds of space. I remember my own mom used to put extra bottles of pop on the back porch. The running joke was that we regularly forgot they were there!

- Adjust the shelves when putting items back in the fridge. We often work around the shelving that's there instead of making it fit our needs. Professional organizer Julia reminds us that those shelves are adjustable for a reason, so go ahead and make the space work for you.

- After your shop put items away in the fridge with purpose, mindful of when and how they'll be used. Laura tells us it's all about "l ocation, location, location! Take the items that you use least and put those in first to leave room at the front for your most used items." You don't want to be pulling everything out to reach the cranberry sauce you need right away. Instead, locate things according to your needs. Laura also suggests separating meats, cheeses and vegetables into different drawers depending on how you plan to prepare them (for platters or main dishes). Julia recommends using a Lazy Susan on a shelf to hold jars and smaller items, as this makes it much easier to access those items that might otherwise disappear in the back of the refrigerator.

- As you prepare food for the big meal, use stackable storage that maximizes your fridge space. Avoid the temptation to prep food in serving dishes, instead use standard size containers.

- After the meal, the same goes for leftovers. Scoop them out of those fancy dishes and put them in stackable containers. Better yet, send your guests home with leftovers. Plan ahead and have some take-out containers on hand and send your guests home with full stomachs and full hands.

What are your tricks for making sure the refrigerator door stays closed on the holidays?? Leave your ideas in the comments below!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

25 Unusual Things You Can Put in The Dishwasher

Francesca Clarke — 2010-11-15T17:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

Think you can do it all? Your dishwasher may be the biggest multitasker in the house. Despite its name, this super appliance can wash tons of things from sneakers and switch plates to keyboards and car parts.

Photo: Getty Images

I've been known to run a single dishwasher load with a serving platter and giant pot while 20 dinner plates wait their turn. My energy and water conserving self begrudges this lazy woman, but I just can't stand hand-washing dishes and I'll do almost anything to avoid it.

Even with my liberal dishwasher use, I've always kept it (more or less) to dishes. Imagine my surprise (and sheer joy!) to learn that there are endless other items that can go in the dishwasher. Here are some of my recent discoveries.

Photo: marcusjroberts, Flickr

Shoes
Any shoe that wouldn't be damaged by water should be able to go in the dishwasher. Canvas shoes, flip-flops, jelly shoes and rubber boots come out squeaky clean. Make sure you remove the liners before putting them in. Some experts warn that this is not a good method for crocks while other people swear by it. Whatever you do, make sure the heat dry is turned off.

Baseball Hat
I've washed baseball hats in the clothes washer before only to pull them out clean but misshapen. Toss that stinky cap in the dishwasher instead.

Hairbrushes, Combs and Hair Accessories
These plastic hair tools can go in the cutlery tray, but be cautioned that some poor quality barrettes might not survive the trip, and little decorative additions could come off.

Plastic Toys
Little plastic toys and action figures are prefect dishwasher candidates. S imply toss these items in the cutlery closure, plastic basket or in a mesh bag and wash away. This goes for pet toys too!

Getty Images

Vent Covers and Fan Grills
Vent covers and fan grills catch dirt and dust that passes through. Instead of trying to clean inside all the grooves, remove them and run them through a dishwasher cycle.

Cup Holders
Cup holders get gross, fast. Add this to your bi-weekly cleaning routine and run stroller and car cup holders through the dishwasher.

Photo: konomike, Flickr

Computer Keyboards
Microsoft and Logitech suggest a damp cloth, but still some brave geeks insist that the keyboard can in fact survive the dishwasher. This much debated tip is very much a "do at your own risk" kind of chore.

Kitchen Brushes
They might look clean after a thorough rinse, but they're not. Sanitize them in the dishwasher.

Scrub Brushes
Vegetable brushes and bottle brushes can both go in the dishwasher to clean and sanitize.

Car Parts
Various car parts including hub caps can clean and polish up nicely in the dishwasher. If you're washing smaller parts, remember that mesh bag or plastic basket.

Window Screens
If it fits in the dishwasher you'll save all that tedious detail washing and blast though dust and grime in one dishwasher cycle.

Light Fixture Covers
On a gentle setting, wash glass light fixture covers.

Switch Plates
Another plastic item that can be easily removed, cleaned and replaced.

Getty Images

Stove Knobs
Our stove element knobs get greasy and grimy very quickly. I like to toss them in the cutlery tray every other week to keep them clean.

Photo: AP

Potatoes
Yes, the kind you eat! Put potatoes on the top rack without detergent and run a quick rinse cycle. This saves you all that washing and frees you up to do the rest of your dinner prep. --It also serves as great dinner conversation! Other reports of dishwasher cooking include lasagna and fish. I'm not brave enough to try this, but if you have, we'd love to hear about it!

Refrigerator shelves
Instead of scrubbing that sticky syrup off your glass or plastic shelves, take them out and run them through the dishwasher.

Ceramic Cabinet Knobs
Take them off and toss them in the cutlery tray or mesh bag. This might be more work than necessary, but for particularly dirty knobs it might just do the trick.

Soap Dishes and Toothbrush Holders
Grimy bathroom accessories are unsightly and unsanitary. Save the soaking and scrubbing by tossing them in the dishwasher instead.

Faux Flowers
Bring, err, life back to your plastic floral arrangements! Put them in a mesh bag on the top rack and run a quick rinse cycle.

Getty Images

Plastic Broom Heads and Dustpans
Make sure you remove any trapped dust and hair from the broom head before running it through the dishwasher, as it could clog the drain. >

Getty Images

Desk Accessories
Pen Holders, sticky note trays and other plastic desk accessories can go in the dishwasher.

Makeup Brushes
These should be sanitizes every few months. Put them in the cutlery tray and they'll come out as good as new.

Trash Can Lids
Run your grungy trash can lids through the dishwasher. While some people swear by this, I'd prefer to keep garbage out of the dishwasher and suggest just spraying it off with a hose instead.

Tools
Garden tools and household tools with plastic handles can go in the dishwasher. Wash them separately if they have had any chemicals on them.

Sporting Equipment
Shin-guards, knee-pads and mouth-guards can all go on the top rack.

What unusual things have you put in the dishwasher. Let us know what worked (and what didn't!).

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Central Vacuum Systems - Should You or Shouldn't You?

Francesca Clarke — 2010-11-09T14:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Products & Materials, Essential Skills, Know-How

Tired of hauling that heavy vacuum around the house? A central vacuum system can make the job of cleaning your home a little easier -- plus, you can install it yourself. So is it worth it to invest in one? DIY Life breaks it down for you in this edition of Should You or Shouldn't You?

Corbis Images

When we moved into our house two years ago, I was thrilled that it had a central vacuum system and I enthusiastically ditched our standard portable vacuum. It appears to be the general opinion of professionals and homeowners alike, that a central vacuum system is superior to the standard unit. But what's great for one homeowner isn't necessarily what's right for you. Central vacuum systems can get pricey, costing as much as upwards of $1,000. So are the benefits of owning a central vacuum system more dream than reality?

We asked Roger Ambrose, owner of Central Vacuum Stores, to help us understand the basics of central vacuum systems: how they work, their benefits and disadvantages versus portable units -- plus installation, repair and maintenance tips.

HOW DOES A BUILT-IN CENTRAL VACUUM SYSTEM WORK?
Unlike standard portable vacuums, central vacuum systems don't require you to haul a heavy unit around the house to clean. With built-in central vacuum systems, you need only carry a lightweight hose and power brush. Dirt and debris is sucked up and sent through tubing located in the walls and sent to a power unit/receptacle, which typically installed in a garage, crawlspace or basement.

Inlet valves are located throughout the house, and PVC tubing is installed in the walls and under the floor connecting back to the central vacuum. The lightweight hose connects to the the inlet and can reach up to 35 feet. So instead of plugging a portable vacuum in and out of of pre-determined electrical outlets, you just need to move the hose from inlet to inlet when operating a central vacuum. Like standard vacuums, central vacuum hoses have a variety of attachments with added features, such as wet interceptors that pick up liquid.

Chris Rout, Alamy

BENEFITS OF A CENTRAL VACUUM SYSTEM
Central vacuums are not as pricey as you may think, relatively speaking. In recent years, several portable vacuums have hit the market complete with high-tech features that take all the (human) work out of vacuuming. These advancements have begun to equalize the cost between portable vacs and central vacs. With price becoming a smaller factor, here are some great benefits to central vacuum systems:

- Healthier Air
Central vacuum systems are the only virtually dust-free way to vacuum. Traditional vacuum cleaners collect dirt and dust in a cup, paper bag or reusable cloth bag. Even with HEPA filtration, fine particles are exhausted back into the air. With a central vacuum system, the dirt and dust are collected in a receptacle located away from the living area. Homeowners can exhaust their units outside, thus eliminating any dust or odors recirculating. This is a very important feature for people who suffer from allergies.

- Powerful Cleaning
Traditional vacuum cleaners are meant to be portable, and thus need to have extremely lightweight motors. Such is not the case for central vacuum systems, which can accommodate larger, more powerful motors: about three to five times more power than traditional vacuums. Not only are central vacuum motors larger, they have built-in cooling fans (for longer life), as well as greater airflow and suction.

- Versatility
With portable household vacuum cleaners, an upright machine is superior for cleaning carpets while a canister vacuum is superior for cleaning bare floors, cars, upholstery, etc. With a central vacuum system you get an all-round superior cleaning, there's no need to switch models for different tasks. Inlets can be strategically placed anywhere in the house or garage, and a lightweight 35-foot hose can cover the distance between sockets. Because of the long hose, you can easily go right up your stairs without having to carry a heavy unit up and down. The long hose and inlets make it easy to get into every area, including the garage to clean car interiors easily. Wet interceptors allow you to pick up water with your central vacuum system too. Furthermore, you can install automatic vacpans that allow you to sweep dirt right into the system.

- Longer Lifespan
Central vacuums have considerably longer life than portable household vacuum cleaners. With average use most central vacuums will last 20 years. By contrast, a standard chain store vacuum will last about two years.

- Added Home Value
Personally, while my husband and I wouldn't have chosen a home based on whether or not it had a built-in vacuum, we certainly saw it as a selling feature. According to CentralVacuum.com, a central vacuum system can add around $2,000 to your home's resale value.

DRAWBACKS OF A CENTRAL VACUUM SYSTEM
With all the benefits, there are some noteworthy disadvantages of central vacuums:

- Cost
If you do the installation yourself, a central vacuum system can cost as little as $500. Yet this is still a significant cost, and a portable household vacuum cleaner is certainly your best choice if budget is main concern. Also, there is an added energy consumption factor. If you ran the vacuum for an hour every day, you'd consume about 20 cents more electricity per day with a built-in central vacuum system.

- Installation Obstacles
It is extremely difficult to install central vacuum systems in apartment and condominium buildings. Houses without a basement, crawlspace or attic to house the vacuum center are better off with a standard vacuum. Other limiting features include poured concrete walls. These factors makes installation difficult and costly. In such cases opt for a standard vacuum and avoid the headache.

- Physical Limitations
Homeowners who have disabilities that make emptying the relatively large canister a challenge are better off with a standard household vacuum.

Photo: Tanais Fox, flickr

FIXING AND MAINTAINING YOUR BUILT-IN CENTRAL VACUUM SYSTEM
Before doing away with my standard vacuum cleaner, I had become familiar with troubleshooting the household vacuum. I knew my machine, its little quarks and what it could and couldn't manage. Luckily, this seemingly complex central vacuum system is actually fairly straightforward, and in most cases you can manage your own troubleshooting as well. From unclogging the tubing, to changing the motor brushes, central vacuum maintenance and repair is very DIY-friendly, with an abundance of resources and troubleshooting tips available.

With the average life of a central vacuum system being 20 years, they are bound to require repairs eventually. Attachments will need to be replaced every 5-8 years at a cost of about $150-$500 depending on what you need. Also the carbon brushes in the motor may need to be replaced after about 10 years at a cost of $15-$20.

While some motors last 20 years, others may go sooner. If they do you're looking at a cost of about $200. When considering the options, be aware of an emerging trend in the central vacuum industry, a movement toward throw-away power units. These types of central vacuum units have either sealed motor pods or the manufacturer doesn't offer replacement parts. "If a customer is okay with the idea of replacing the entire unit when the relay or carbon brushes wear out, then there would be no problem," Roger says. "However, if a customer wants the option of repairing their central vacuum power unit, then they need to ask and make sure the motor is repairable and parts are available."

Cleaning a central vacuum in most cases is as simple as emptying the canister and occasionally reaching up and removing any dust that accumulated and got trapped above the container. Central vacuum bags and canisters need to be emptied on average once every three months.

INSTALLING A CENTRAL VACUUM
I was thrilled to learn that the average person can install and maintain their central vacuum system. While I'm still a little skeptical, Roger assures me that the vast majority of their customers are installing the central vacuum system themselves and often in pre-existing construction.

However, there is some degree of difficulty: determining the layout requires planning. Enter Faith Elliott, P.E., the structural engineer on staff at Central Vacuum Stores. She and her team offer free design consultations, so they can address any questions the customer has about their system's layout.

There are lots of resources available with general installation instructions, and Central Vacuum's own 7 steps to installation guide. You'll want to review the specific instructions for your unit, consult with a professional, and check to make sure that a non-professional installation won't void your warranty.

The ease of doing-it-yourself depends on whether you have easy access to the area where you plan to store the system and that no major hurdles in the home require professional troubleshooting. Once you've reviewed the instructions, if you decide that you don't have the necessary skills, time or interest to install it yourself, you can always hire a professional. Either way, the resources are plenty.

FINAL VERDICT: For homes that are less than 1000 square feet, a central vacuum system is simply not worth the money. But when your home and your budget can manage it, built-in vacuum systems are definitely a desirable choice.

SEE ALSO:
5 Things You Should Never Vacuum
How to Have a Dust-Free Home
Cinnamon Stick Vacuum Freshener (Apartment Therapy)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Unusual Uses For Nail Polish

Francesca Clarke — 2010-11-01T17:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Think nail polish is just for manicures? Think again. This style staple has a lot of colorful uses around the house, too.

Unusual use for nail polish include securing screws, labeling toxic materials, and rust-proofing metal. Photo: Getty Images

Ladies: we all know that clear nail polish is the secret to nylon repair. Keep a little bottle in your purse so you can quickly fix a snag, preventing a huge run in your pantyhose. Our mothers taught us this, and their mothers taught them. There is no doubt we'll pass this little tip on to future generations. But let's add a few clever uses to the list.

Here are some household uses for nail polish:

Quick-Fix Glue
Nail polish can be used for most small adhesive needs. Apply some clear nail polish to secure screws, repair small wood fractures, or re-set jewelry stones.

Label Toxic Materials and Supplies
Mark a big bold 'X' on all poisons in the house. This will prevent any mix-ups and make a quick easy reference for little ones (who shouldn't have access anyway!) and seniors.

Mark Your Thermostat and Shower Settings
Paint a thin, colored nail polish line to mark the right setting on your thermostat. Do the same for that perfect shower temperature. This is a quick and easy way to find the right temperature.

Prevent Screws, Nuts and Bolts From Rusting
Coat screws, nuts and bolts with clear nail polish to prevent rusting. This is particularly useful for outdoor picnic tables or other areas when the metal is exposed to the elements.

Smooth Wooden Hangers
Old wooden hangers are an attractive alternative to the modern plastic or wire choices, but they are often rough and splintered. Apply a clear coat of nail polish to the rough areas (or over the entire thing) to smooth it over without losing the vintage look.

Stop Fabric From Fraying
Tame frayed fabric by brushing the ends with clear nail polish. You can also add a drop of clear nail polish to the back side of buttons to keep them from falling off.

Mark Levels on a Bucket
Use a bright colored nail polish to clearly mark levels on a bucket. This is great for a mixing bucket that doesn't have the measurements marked on, or to simply repeat the marking on the outside making it easier to manage when it's full.

Avoid Rust Rings
Paint some nail polish along the bottom ring of metal containers (think hair spray bottles) so they don't leave rust marks on your counter.

Fill Scratches on Wood Floor
Fill little nicks with clear nail polish. Rub the polish down with sand paper to dull the shine.

Fix a Broken Mirror Corner
Soften the sharp edge of a cracked mirror by applying a thick coat of nail polish to the broken corner.

Repair a Window Screen
It might not be the prettiest fix, but it will stop that tiny hole from growing into a major problem. Apply clear nail polish to the frayed screen to seal the hole.

Most fixes use clear nail polish, but I was also happy to find some craftier uses for those unfortunate shades that I once loved but never actually use.

Share your own unusual uses for nail polish in the comments.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Halloween Ideas: DIY Decorations and Crafts

Francesca Clarke — 2010-10-29T13:27:00 00:00

Filed under: Holidays, Crafts & Celebrations

Boo! It's Halloweeeeeeeeeeeeeen! Here at DIY Life we love to see fake skulls, body parts, witches, ghosts and goblins invade yards and homes. But before you raid your local Halloween aisle for all things scary and icky, get inspired by these creative Halloween haunted house ideas you can whip up yourself!

http://xml.channel.aol.com/xmlpublisher/fetch.v2.xml?option=expand_relative_urls&dataUrlNodes=uiConfig,feedConfig,localizationConfig,entry&id=947560&pid=947559&uts=1288041982

http://www.aolcdn.com/ke/media_gallery/v1/ke_media_gallery_wrapper.swf

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

Use a clear plastic tarp to make a transparent body bag. Add some red paint for a scary effect.

rightbrainphotography, flickr

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

Use a clear plastic tarp to make a transparent body bag. Add some red paint for a scary effect.

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

This dinner guest should insist on getting 50 percent off! Looks like the torso is being devoured from the inside by a carnivorous alien ... or is that just what's left of the intestines spilling out? Let your visitors decide.

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

Looks like this dinner got a little bloody! Use an old garden pot with expanding insulation foam and cover it with glow-in-the-dark paint for a spooky bubbling cauldron.

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

Off with their heads! Convert an old swing set into a guillotine prop for Halloween. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-convert-an-old-swingset-into-a-guillotine-p/

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

Something tells us this game of Ring Around the Rosie does not have a happy ending. Use old white sheets, dowels and strings to create a spooky ring of ghosts. Add dry ice to amp up the spook factor.
http://familyfun.go.com/crafts/ghost-host-666241/

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

No haunted house is complete without this DIY favorite. Frighten guest with a life size mummy!

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

Wearing gloves, place broken pieces of dry ice into a cauldron. Pour just enough water that will cover the ice, which will create the magical smoke effect. Don't forget to handle dry ice with great care, as it can burn the skin.

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

Wish your neighbor were dead? With this quick DIY project, it's easy to pretend!
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/tombstones

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

Renovating? An old window can make a perfect frame for a frightening Halloween display.

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

For the craftier DIYers, this paper mache witch's hat makes an attractive entryway prop.

Halloween Crafts: DIY Props and Decorations

SEE ALSO:
Last-Minute Halloween Decorations
Halloween Costumes (Holidash)
Decorating with Black (ShelterPop)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Composting Fall Leaves

Francesca Clarke — 2010-10-21T12:31:00 00:00

Filed under: Patios, Porches & Decks, Outdoors

The gold, crimson and burgundy leaves of autumn are a pleasure to see atop trees. But when they fall to the ground, they can be a pain to rake and bag up. On the bright side, fall leaves are great for composting, adding rich nutrients to your garden's soil.

Compost fall leaves. Photo: Getty Images

If you started composting last spring, chances are you've produced some rich nutrient rich soil since then. Now that fall is in full swing, the ground is covered with colorful leaves in various stages of decay. These can all be added to your compost.

While it's tempting to think that the leaves will naturally compost themselves, it's crucial that you control this process so that they don't grow mold or suffocate existing vegetation. There is no way around it, you'll need to rake up all those leaves. The good news is that all that hard work will show itself in rich compost that can be added back to your garden.

Annette Pelliccio is a national speaker and book contributor on the topic of composting and the founder of The Happy Gardener. She explained to me the benefits of adding all these fallen leaves to your home compost.

Annette tells us that the brown material provides carbon and green material provides nitrogen. Both are important to the composting process and their balance is essential.

All of the fallen leaves (brown material) will give a perfect carbon balance to the nitrogen-rich green matter that you added this Summer. Annette says "T he time of year for leaves will determine what it brings to the compost."

It is recommended that you mulch the leaves before adding them to the compost. If you don't have access to a shredder, simply go over the leaf pile with your lawn mower to chew them up.

Feeling impatient or have more leaves than your compost can manage? Use the shredded leaves immediately as mulch. This can extend the harvesting season for root vegetables by giving them protection through the winter. This process may deplete the soil of nitrogen, so you'll want to add some nitrogen fertilizer to compensate for that this Spring. Take care not to place excessive mulch on the crowns of herbaceous perennial flowers as it could potentially cause root-rot.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

DIY "Swiffer" Sweeper Cloths: Home Ec

Francesca Clarke — 2010-10-13T09:20:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Looking to combine the super-effectiveness of Swiffer Sweeper cloths with the reusability of microfiber cloths? Our domestic DIYer shares her easy recipe for homemade, pre-treated, washable cloths that trap dust like a magnet.

Homemade dust cloths are a budget-friendly answer to disposable Swiffer Sweepers. Photo: Francesca Clarke

My quest for a dust-free home is neverending. Even if I'm simply managing the weekly buildup on the piano, bookshelves and photo ledge, I'm detesting it every step of the way.

Ever since I abandoned store-bought, pretreated dust cloths -- read: Swiffer Sweepers -- my dusters of choice have been microfiber cloths. They're a satisfactory alternative, but to be honest, I don't find them nearly as effective as Swiffers. Then I thought, if only I could combine the effectiveness of Swiffer Sweepers with the reusable appeal of microfiber cloths.

That's when I came up with this homemade version of Swiffer cloths. No worries: the recipe totally natural. (Though it should be noted that, according the Procter & Gamble, the ingredients in Swiffer Sweepers aren't too bad either; the company lists wax and various fragrances as the pre-treating ingredients).

No, we're not making salad dressing. This DIY pre-treated dust cloth recipe calls for items you can find right in your kitchen. Photo: Francesca Clarke

What You'll Need
-- 1/2 cup hot water
-- Juice from 3 lemons
-- 2 Tbs olive oil
-- An old cotton t-shirt
-- Glass container with lid

How to Make Your Own Pre-Treated Dust Cloths

Francesca Clarke

1. Cut rags out of an old cotton t-shirt. If you don't have one, there's no need to destroy a good shirt. Any cotton cloth will do.

Francesca Clarke

2. Pour 1/2 cup of water into a glass container. Then mix in the juice from 3 lemons

Francesca Clarke

4. Add 2 Tbs olive oil. Mix well.

Francesca Clarke

5. Immerse the cotton cloths in the solution.

Francesca Clarke

6. Put a lid on the container and let it sit for two hours. I put mine by the windowsill.

Francesca Clarke

5. Wring out each cloth and set it to dry. Wait till they're completely dry, then dust away!

Francesca Clarke

Tip: I recommend hand-washing the cloths after each use. Tossing them in the laundry with other items could result in oil stains on your other laundry.

Washing by hand also stretches out the number of times you can use the cloths before you need to re-treat them. You should get about three uses out of each treatment.

I used these pre-treated cloths on my piano, and am thrilled to report that it's dust-free and polished too!

Got any homemade cleaning recipes? Share them in the comments!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Prevent Pipe Freezing: Fall Maintenance

Francesca Clarke — 2010-10-08T11:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

Pipe freezing isn't just a nuisance; it can cause leaks inside the walls, which can ultimately lead to bigger problems that make major reconstruction necessary. Prevention equals peace of mind.

spierzchala, flickr

Fall maintenance is crucial to your overall home management plan. It might feel like the mild fall days are just beginning, but in actuality, winter is just around the corner and the time to prepare is now.

I consulted with Jack McGraw, ASHI Certified Inspector. Jack also serves on the board of directors with the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI).

Frozen pipes can have a devastating impact on your home. According to State Farm, a quarter-million families have their homes ruined each year. Jack tells us, "The broken pipe itself is actually relatively minor, but the damage caused by the leaking water running through your walls and ceiling can mean a major reconstruction project, requiring replacement of drywall, ceilings and maybe even furniture and appliances." Avoid the thousands of dollars worth of potential damage by doing some preventative maintenance.

PROTECT YOUR PIPES

You should protect any pipe that's in an unheated area, like a crawl-space, attic, or outside wall, with insulation. Jack tells us, "Pipes in attics, crawl spaces and outside walls are all vulnerable to freezing, especially if there are cracks or openings that allow cold, outside air to flow across the pipes."

Jack suggests sealing cracks and holes in outside walls and foundations near water pipes with caulking to keep cold wind away from the pipes. Kitchen and bathroom cabinets can prevent the warm inside air from reaching the pipes under sinks and in adjacent outside walls. Jack recommends that we keep cabinet doors open during cold spells to let the warm air circulate around the pipes.

Electric heating tapes and cables are among the preventative measures that Jack recommends. The tapes or cables run along the pipes and keep the water from freezing inside them. There are two types of tape and cable, one with a built-in thermostat which will turn heat on when needed, and the other without, which will need to be plugged in when the heat is needed. He reminds us that the latter "must be used with extreme caution and in total compliance with the manufacturer's instructions. When used improperly, there is a risk of fire."

The outside water line is the most vulnerable and prone to freezing. Jack tells us that there doesn't have to be snow outside for freezing conditions to be present. Anytime the temperature drops to 32 degrees or below, unprotected pipes could freeze.

There are two ways that this can present a problem. First, if the hose bib is not frost-free and is not shut off or covered. Secondly, even frost-free hose bibs can become problematic if the line was not drained properly when it was shut off. The sitting water can still freeze and potentially burst.

If you are away from the house for a long period of time, do not turn the heat off. Personally, It's tempting to turn the heat way down in the interest of saving money, but a slightly higher heating bill is preferable to the massive damage caused by a burst pipe.

WHAT TO DO ABOUT FROZEN PIPES

If you turn on the tap and no water comes out, leave the faucet on and call a plumber.

If a water pipe bursts, immediately turn off the water at the main shut-off valve. Take the time before you have an emergency, to familiarize yourself with your shut-off valve. Typically, it is near the water meter or where the main line enters the house.

Jack reminds us to keep safety first, and never try to thaw frozen pipes with an open flame. This will damage the pipe and may even start a fire.

You might be able to thaw frozen pipes with a hand-held hair dryer. Slowly apply heat, starting close to the faucet end of the pipe, with the faucet open and work toward the coldest section. Keeping safety first, Jack cautions against using electrical appliances while standing in water as there is a risk of electrocution.

Looking for that secret product, I asked Jack if there is a kind of pipe that might be less prone to freezing. Unfortunately, no, there isn't. It's just a matter of volume. He says, "The expansion increases the volume of water by about 11%. This creates tremendous pressure on the piping system. Systems include metal, galvanize, copper, and plastic pipes. No matter the strength of a material, expanding water will cause the pipe to burst eventually."

Are frozen pipes an issue in your home? Have you ever had to deal with the disaster of a bust pipe? Share your stories in the comments.

SEE ALSO:
Five Not-So-Scary Plumbing Fixes
Fixing Noisy Pipes (This Old House)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments