DIY Life

Handmade: Bungee-Cord Memo Board

Gina Provenzano — 2010-07-14T09:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Home Offices, Storage & Organization, Know-How, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Stretch your organization skills. Make a memo board from utility bungee cords. Photo: Gina Provenzano

Sick of that boring corkboard or ultra-feminine French photo board? Dive in to unconventional organization with a wall-mounted memo board made from bungee cords!

Photos, cards, memos, party invites -- it's good to have place to stash these odds and ends in plain sight. That's why memo boards are so popular in kitchens and home offices. But what if you want to add a little flair to your wall without being frilly, ribbon-y, or just plain boring?

It was while I was producing a story about dorm-room decorating that I came up with the idea for a fun and guy-approved memo board -- one made with bungee cords instead of ribbon! Bungee cords are colorful, elastic, and give off an air of adventure. Paired with a few curtain clips (okay, not so masculine) the result is a organizational tool with a ton of personality.

Bungee cords are easy to come by -- they're available online or at home centers, hardware stores and sporting goods stores. Note that bungee cords should not be stretched more than 1.5 times their size.

Tools & Supplies
Wood frame, approximately 20" x 30" (NOTE: Most home centers will cut the wood to size for you.)
MDF 2' x 4' x 1/4" board, cut to fit inside the frame
12 to 14 bungee cords, approximately 10" to 18" in length
Rubber cement
1 to 2 sheets of art paper, approximately 20" x 30" to fit MDF board
Pencil
Scissors
Brads
Hammer
Tape measure
#6 flat head screws, 1/2" long
Screwdriver
Curtain clips, approximately 12 to 14

Directions:
1. Cover the board with paper. Place art paper on the MDF board, aligning the edges. If the paper does not cover the board fully, cut a piece an additional sheet of paper to cover the exposed area. You should take measurements beforehand, so you can position the paper's seams in way that looks intentional. Use rubber cement to adhere the paper to board.

2. Frame board. Place the covered MDF board into the frame. Use your hammer to secure it in place with brads.

3. Install the first screws for the horizontal bungees. As you can see in the photo above, the bungee cords should be installed horizontally and vertically to keep your memos secure. Install the screws for the horizontally placed bungee cords before moving on to the vertical ones. First measure and mark a spot approximately 1" down and 1" over from bottom right corner. This will be the starting spot (point A) for your screws. Insert a screw at this marking leaving approximately 1/8" of the screw's threads still above the surface. Measure and mark a spot horizontally across the frame (point B), making certain it is parallel to the first marking. Make sure the distance between points A and B is at least 1.2 times but no greater than 1.5 times the length of the bungee cord in order for the cord to be taut but not snap when hooked on the screws.

4. Install the remaining screws for the horizontal bungees. Continue measuring and marking for the horizontal bungee cord placement randomly over the board. Vary the lengths between the markings as well as the distance between them. Place the screws at each of the markings.

5. Place the bungees. Now hook the bungee cords horizontally onto the screws.

6. Install screws for vertical bungees. Now it's time to set up your vertical bungee cords. Remember, the actual placement of the cords is up to you, but the photo above should provide inspiration. Measure and mark for the vertical bungee cord placement using the existing horizontal cords as your guide. You will want to overlap some of the cords. Again, vary the lengths between the markings as well as the distance between them. Place screws and hook bungee cords weaving the cords under and over the horizontal ones. Remember the rule mentioned before -- the distance between two points of a bungee cord should be at least 1.2 times but no more than 1.5 times the length of the bungee cord.

7. Add curtain clips. Slip curtain clips onto horizontal bungees and squeeze rings to secure.

Then enjoy your new memo board! Where will you be hanging yours?

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Handmade: Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

Gina Provenzano — 2010-06-05T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Crafts & Celebrations

The light shines through a lamp made from old CDs and DVDs. Photo: Gina Provenzano

Gone digital? Transform your outdated CDs and DVDs into a chic table lamp.

In the age of MP3s and DVRs, plenty of us have a hefty stack of CDs and DVDs taking up valuable desk space in our homes. But with a little ingenuity and creativity, you can keep those unwanted discs out of the landfill by repurposing them into a base for a fabulous table lamp. You'll need about 7 1/4 inches worth of discs for the project I'm about to walk you through.

You'll also need a lamp-making kit, which is readily available in stores like The Home Depot and Lowe's. Some online merchants, like Klock It, sell lamp wiring kits as well.

Once you've gathered all the pieces, it doesn't take to long to put it all together. Here's how:

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Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

Wood base, approximately 7" x 7" square
Ruler
Pencil
Drill and 25/64ths drill bit
Sandpaper, fine grit
Black acrylic craft paint
Paint brush
2 Sheets black fun foam, 1/4" thick
Utility or X-acto knife
Old CDs and DVDs, about 8" to 9" when stacked
Marker
Glue
Westinghouse Make-A-Lamp Kit #70268
Westinghouse All-Thread Lamp Pipe Kit #70272
Hex nut, 3/8" for spacer
Hacksaw
Screwdriver

Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

Find the center of the wood base by measuring the width and length and dividing in half in both directions. Mark the center with pencil point. Use a power drill to make a hole at the center through base. Be sure to drill straight down.

Then, sand the base -- especially around the drilled hole -- and wipe clean with a soft cloth. Paint the entire base black. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

First, you'll make cut out circles to act as spacers between your discs. Trace around a CD or DVD onto black fun foam. On a well-protected surface, cut out 8 circles. Use CD/DVD to mark the center of the foam pieces. Then use knife or hole puncher to cut out a small hole of each piece.

From scrap foam, measure and mark for four 1" squares to act as feet for your lamp base. Cut out the squares and glue them onto base -- one square at each of the four corners.

Allow to dry.

Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

Insert lamp pipe into drilled hole in base. Screw it through the wood until it extends about 1/8" from bottom. Secure pipe under base by screwing a locknut onto lamp pipe extension.

Before assembling the base, play with the order of the CD/DVDs until you like the combination. Insert black foam discs between the stacks of CD/DVDs at various intervals. Different CD/DVDs have different colors and they shows through on the edges. Once you are happy with the order, thread CD/DVDs and foam pieces onto lamp pipe and base.

Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

Thread a knurled lock nut onto the neck and tighten around the top of the CD/DVD stack. Place the hex nut as a spacer. Thread the neck onto the pipe and tighten.

Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

Insert the harp bottom onto the pipe, thread another two knurled lock nuts, and then screw on the socket cap. Tighten the screw to secure the socket cap in place.

Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

Insert the wire through the pipe from the underside of the base.

Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

Push the wire until it extends about 5 inches through the socket cap.

Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

Separate the two sides of the lamp cord by pulling them apart. Make an underwriter's knot with the two ends of the lamp cord.

Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

Connect the neutral--white or ribbed wire--to the silver screw on the socket interior. Connect the other to the brass screw on the socket interior. Tighten both screws to secure.

IMPORTANT: The neutral side of the lamp wire is identified by ribbing or a white line on the insulation.

Make a Lamp from Old CDs and DVDs

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DIY Diary: My Mother Inspired Me to DIY

Gina Provenzano — 2010-05-08T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Holidays, Crafts & Celebrations

DIY Life's resident crafter Gina Provenzano with her DIY inspiration -- her mother, Pat. Photo: Gina Provenzano

Growing up in a family of four sisters, it was difficult for me to have alone time with my mom. I never truly realized how valuable our time together was until I grew up to be a DIYer. My mom is an artist, and crafting was something we did together.

Mom encouraged my creativity, taking me along to her pastel-drawing classes when I was still in grade school. The teacher, Mr. Cardiff, was a gentle old soul with a soft voice and a steady hand. With patience and discipline he instructed and inspired. I learned a lot in his studio watching both he and my mom work together. I would be mesmerized watching them create images with small stubs of colored chalk in their fingers.

When I was in junior high, my mother and I began taking watercolor painting classes together at the school. The environment was different, but the effect was the same. I began to develop my skills practicing and painting at home with my mom.

I loved when a holiday approached and we would plan what type of project we would take on. My mom's crafter side would bloom around the holidays. We'd all gather around the kitchen table every Christmas, and Easter -- and sometimes just for no reason at all -- to make a project together. Just mom and her girls. We always laughed, sometimes cried and often learned something new.

Each one of our holiday projects is still a prized treasure in my mom's eyes. There's one Christmas ornament in particular, which I can remember making so vividly: my clothespin hula girl. Her skirt has seen better luaus, but still she sits among the tree branches each year. Mom makes certain of it.

As I got older, art remained a part of my life, but I chose to pursue an academic degree in business. I think my mom was a little disappointed that I decided against art school. Ironically, here I am today, crafting and creating like I did back then -- and for a living, to boot.

I know I can still ask for my mom's advice when I have a question about the many craft projects I produce for magazines and online publications. And I know I'll get a constructive and honest reply. On the occasion when the tables are turned, I feel a tinge of pride knowing she trusts my opinion enough to ask my advice.

Through the years I've realized that while our techniques and styles were different, we shared some artistic similarities. We both despise making the same thing more than once, for instance. We are both perfectionists. And most of all, we both enjoy sharing our talent with others.

Now, I often craft with my nieces and nephews. I love to see them hone their individual styles with enthusiasm. Crafting for DIY Life, ShelterPop, and other publications is not so much a job as it is a celebration -- kind of like a holiday spent sitting around the kitchen table. I can make a project and share it with the world. I just love that -- as long as I only have to make it once!

So thank you, Mom. It is through your enthusiasm and encouragement that I found my own creative self and style. You have truly inspired me, and instilled in me a passion for creating and sharing that is thoroughly fulfilling.

Happy Mother's Day!

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Handmade: Transform a Branch Into a Coat Rack

Gina Provenzano — 2010-05-06T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Small Spaces, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Give a felled branch a second life as a whimsical coat rack. Photo: Gina Provenzano

It's easy to miss the beauty of a single branch when it's one of many that make up a tree. Then one day, that branch breaks from its trunk and ends up just another piece of debris to be cleaned from your backyard (or left to decay).

But a really interesting-looking branch can be much more than just fodder for the wood chipper. In fact, I recently found a large branch with lots of handy offshoots -- so I repurposed it into this rustic coat rack.

West Elm sold something similar a while back and the results were fabulous, as noted on Apartment Therapy. They probably got their inspiration from designer Erich Ginder's Ghost Tree Coat Rack featured on DesignPublic.

Now you can make your own branch coat rack for free (plus a few inexpensive tools). First, I'll show you how to choose a branch and turn it into a coat rack. Then I'll teach you how to make the base.

HOW TO MAKE THE COAT RACK

Tools & Supplies

- Hacksaw
- Utility knife
- Acrylic-based sealer
- Small paint brush

Instructions

1. First, choose your twig. Pick a felled branch that's not too wet or rotten. It should be about 5 to 6 feet in length. Opt for one with multiple sturdy limbs that fan out and have additional offshoot branches. The more extremities your branch has, the more items you'll be able to hang.

2. Check for bugs. Any signs of tiny holes and little squiggles could be an indication of worms or termites. Scrape off the bark with a utility knife to determine if the wood surface is penetrated. If not, it should be safe to use.

Peel Bark from branch before drying. Photo: Gina Provenzano

3. Using a hacksaw, cut any spindly twigs off branches so that what remains are essentially stubs that range in length from 2 to 8 inches. Trim the bottom of the branch so it's flat. Then, using your fingers and a chisel or flat scraper, remove the bark from the tree.

4. Bring the branch into a warm, dry area, on a well-protected surface to dry. Allow the branch to dry indoors for at least a week. The longer your branch dries, the longer it will last and the less chance you will have for sap to seep out.

5. When dry, use an acrylic based sealer and brush stubs ends to further prevent sap from seeping. Allow to dry.

HOW TO MAKE A BASE FOR YOUR COAT RACK

Tools & Supplies

- 12" to 16" Planter Pot with drainage holes sealed
- DAP Plaster of Paris, 8-lb tub
- Stirrer
- Water
- Gloves
- Drop cloth
- Filler rocks
- Decorative Rocks

Instructions

Add rocks to weight down base. Photo: Gina Provenzano

1. Place the pot on a well-protected surface. Insert the branch into the pot and add a 2" layer of filler rock. It helps to have another person to hold the branch in place while you pour the plaster to set the branch.

2. Working quickly, mix water into dry plaster tub according to manufacturer's directions (should be 2 parts mix to 1 part water). Stir to even consistency, then pour some over rocks in tub.

3. Add more filler rock, then more plaster while your helper holds the branch in place.

Pour plaster into base to set branch in place. Photo: Gina Provenzano

4. Continue adding filler rock and plaster until the level is about 2 1/2 inches from top lip of pot.

5. Add a little more plaster than finish with decorative rocks. Adding the filler rocks to the plaster makes the base heavy which helps support more weighty coats and jackets. Clean any plaster from edge of pot and branch with a wet cloth.

6. Allow to dry. Plaster should set in 20 to 30 minutes.

Once dry, your twig coat stand is ready to hold jackets, scarves and hats. It's just as sturdy as any store-bought coat rack -- just with a whole lot more eco-character!

For another homemade way to bring nature inside, learn how to make gourd Luminaries in this video:

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Handmade: Four-Season DIY Headboard

Gina Provenzano — 2010-04-05T13:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Bedrooms, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

An interchangeable fabric panel lets you change your look without changing your furniture. Photo: Gina Provenzano

I've been decorating and crafting for magazines, websites, ads, TV, friends and family for more years than I care to say. I've spruced up every room inside and outside the home, including countless bedrooms, turning each from a plain white box into a beautiful retreat. Yet, in all that time, I cannot believe it but I have never made a headboard for myself.

Maybe it's a city thing (I'm a New Yorker). I find myself moving often and, each time, trying to minimize the clutter -- "trying" is the key word here. The more likely reason, though, is that I see so many home furnishings I like and I can't seem commit to the same thing for very long.

So I had this idea for a DIY headboard that gives me the freedom to change my mind. I can change the headboard in an instant, with a flip of fabric. Now we're talking! For those of you other crafters whose tastes seem to change with the seasons, here's a DIY headboard project that changes with you.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
(Note: Materials and instructions are based on a full size headboard. Linear feet of 2" x 2" will change depending upon the bed size, as well as the size of the double-sided fabric panel.)

For Headboard Frame:
-(2) 4" x 4" x 48" Fence posts (untreated wood) (actual size is about 3 3/8" L x 3 3/8" W x 48" H)
-(2) Fence post caps (untreated wood)
-2" x 2" piece of wood (actual size is about 1 1/2" x 1 1/2") Cut into four crossbar pieces, each 50" in length
-Tape measure
-Pencil
-Drill with bits (extra-long 1/4" and extra-long 1/8" sizes)
-3/4" Flat-bladed borer attachment; buy singly or as a set at Home Depot
-Screwdriver, cordless
-1/4" Square socket adapter
-7/16" socket
-Ratchet
-(8) 3 1/2" Lag screws (1/4" D)
-(8) 1/4 " Washers
-Box of nails (about 1" long)
-Hammer
-Rubber mallet
-3/4" wood dowel
-Hack saw
-Box of wood screws (#8 x 3/4")
-(3) Sheets of sandpaper (#200 grit)
-(8) 2" x 2" or 2" x 4" Three-sided fence brackets; they look like these
-(4) Open-end hooks (3/4" x 1 1/4")
-Tube of wood glue or Gorilla glue
-Gallon of white latex paint (eggshell or semi-gloss are easiest to clean)
-Container of furniture wax or latex sealer

For Double-Sided Fabric Panel:
-1 1/2 yards of fabric of your choice (can use fabric or sheeting); check out Fabric.com
-1 1/2 yards of contrasting fabric
-Sewing machine and matching thread
-1 1/2 yards heavy flannel lining or quilt batting; buy it at Michael's or online at Amazon
-Measuring tape
-Pencil
-Scissors
-Iron
-X-Acto-knife
-5/8" Grommets
-5/8" Grommet Setter

Bed Size Chart:
BED MATTRESS HEADBOARD WIDTH
Twin 39" x 75" 41"
Full 54" x 75" 56"
Queen 60" x 80" 62"
King 76" x 80" 78"

Gina Provenzano

HEADBOARD DIRECTIONS:

1. Sand all wood pieces until smooth. Wipe clean with a dry cloth.

2. Measure and mark the inside of each post for the placement of the horizontal crossbar supports. You'll make 8 markings total, for the top and bottom of each bar. Make the first mark 3 1/2" from top, the second mark 5" from the top, the third mar 13" from the top, and continue as follows: 14 1/2" from the top, 22 1/2" from the top, 24" from the top, 32" from the top, 33 1/2" from the top. You should have 14 1/2" remaining at the bottom. Center markings from side to side on the post.

3. Place a fence bracket at first crossbar mark so that the extensions are at the bottom and at the back. There are two holes in the bracket, a small one and a larger one below it. Hammer a nail into the smaller top hole. Use drill and 1/8" drill bit to make a secondary hole through the metal bracket diagonally above the first one. Hammer another nail into this hole to secure bracket in place.

4. On a well protected surface and with a piece of scrap wood below, drill a 1/8" pilot hole through bottom larger hole of bracket and straight down through post. Repeat for each crossbar bracket, and for second fence post.

5. Turn post to opposite exterior side. With boring attachment and using the pilot hole as your center placement guide, bore a hole about 3/4" down into post to countersink lag screws.

6. Turn back to interior side, and using the 1/4" bit, drill straight through bracket and post, enlarging metal bracket hole and pilot hole. Repeat for each bracket.

5. When all brackets are secured, set crossbars in place. These steps will require another person's help. Using 1/8" bit and going through outside of post, drill a pilot hole into the crossbar. Next, change to the 1/4" bit and enlarge pilot hole in crossbar by drilling only about 1/4 inch through. This will prevent the crossbars from cracking.

6. Sand around the bored holes in the post and wipe clean with a dry cloth.

7. Applying pressure at both ends, screw lag screws into post and crossbar using washers and cordless screwdriver with socket adapter and socket. Do not tighten until all crossbars are screwed in. Then tighten to secure with ratchet.

8. Cut a 6" piece of dowel. Using a rubber mallet, hammer into bored, countersink holes. Using the hack saw, saw off as close to the post as possible. Sand smooth and wipe clean. Repeat for each hole.

9. Use wood glue or a tiny amount of Gorilla Glue (it expands generously!) to adhere caps to the tops of each post. Allow to dry.

10. Paint headboard with white latex paint, allow to dry. Apply additional coats as necessary, allowing to dry between coats.

11. Apply a sealer or furniture wax according to manufacturer's directions.

12. With pencil, mark a spot 3/4" up from top of first crossbar and flush with front of crossbar. Repeat on other post. Next, mark a spot 3/4" from bottom of lower crossbar and flush with front of crossbar. Repeat on other post. Screw a hook into each marking for attaching fabric panel with open end of hook facing back.

DOUBLE-SIDED FABRIC PANEL DIRECTIONS:

1. Measure and mark a 32 1/2" x 50" rectangle on wrong side of one of the fabrics. Lie both fabrics with right sides facing on flat surface. Pin 1/2" inside from measured marks and cut through both layers of fabric at the same time.

2. Sew around rectangle using a straight stitch and with a 1/2" seam allowance, leaving a 12" opening along one long side. Clip corners and turn so right sides face out. Press along seams.

3. Cut lining to 31" x 48 1/2" and insert into panel. Pin open edge closed and pin lining in place. Sew lining in place by sewing around panel about 3/4" from edge.

4. Measure and mark a dot 1" in and 1" down from each corner. With X-Acto-knife and on a well-protected surface, cut a small "x" through all layers of fabric. Trim around. Insert a grommet face into hole. Place a grommet back on grommet setter and secure grommet by either hammering or squeezing setter tool. Repeat for each corner.

5. Attach fabric panel to headboard by inserting grommet onto each corner hook.

To switch the look, simply unhook the panel and flip it to the other side. If your feeling ambitious, make an additional double-sided panel for the remaining seasons -- 2 double-sided panels for all four seasons!

The steps used to attach the headboard to your bed depends upon the type of bed frame you have. Most often you can use washers and 3" lag screws, screwing through the metal bed frame and into the post. Use two lag screws for each side of the frame. Remember to first mark the placement of the frame and drill a pilot hole.

Sleep tight!

WANT MORE HEADBOARD IDEAS?
- Watch a video on how to make an incredible upholstered headboard featured in the late, great Cookie magazine! (Design Sponge)
- Read about how to create a DIY Tufted Headbooard (Apartment Therapy)
- See 6 Inspiring Bedroom Makeovers (ShelterPop)

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Handmade: Cedar-Lined Under-Bed Storage Box

Gina Provenzano — 2010-03-26T13:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Bedrooms, Storage & Organization, Know-How, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Make a sturdy under-bed box that won't break every season. Photo: Gina Provenzano

Spring is here at last. And with great optimism, I recently started the task of pulling my warm-weather clothing out of hibernation. Unfortunately, when I dragged the overstuffed storage bags out from underneath my bed, they ripped wide open. Lovely.

After going through this every 6 months for longer than I can remember, I'd just about had it. I decided I needed to find a creative, durable, low-cost solution.What did I come up with? A DIY under-bed storage. Yes, a real box made of wood and lined in cedar, which provides excellent protection against moths, mildew, and mustiness. On the sides, I attached rope handles and on the bottom, a set of wheels. That way, the box is easy to slide back and forth, even on my carpeting.

While the list of materials is long and may seem daunting, this project isn't too complicated. But it does require an extra pair of hands. And as with most projects, you learn by doing. So, instead of having you screw the bottom frame, I am suggesting it be glued and tacked in place.

TOOLS & SUPPLIES

(1) sheet of 1/4" oak MDF or solid wood,
cut into ONE 24" x 48" piece and TWO 22 5/8" x 23 3/8" pieces
(2) 1" x 2" x 8' oak strips (actual size 1/2" x 1 1/2"),
cut into TWO 48" lengths, THREE 21" lengths and ONE 22 1/4" length
(3) 1/2" x 2" x 4' oak strips (actual size 1/4" x 1 1/2"),
cut into TWO 46 1/2" lengths and TWO 22 3/4" lengths
(1) 1" x 6" x 8' oak boards (actual size 1/2" x 5 1/2"),
cut into TWO 48" lengths
(1) 1" x 6" x 4' oak boards (actual size 1/2" x 5 1/2"),
cut into TWO 22 3/4" lengths
(1) box cedar closet lining wood strips, tongue in groove,
cut into approximately FOURTEEN 22 3/4" lengths
(6) 1 1/2" caster wheels
#6 Flat head wood screws, 1 1/2" in length and 1 1/4" in length
5/8" brads
1/2" brads
Hammer
Cordless or hand held screwdriver
Drill and drill bits
Wood glue
Clamps
Sandpaper
Hacksaw
Hinges
Furniture Wax
Cloths
Measuring tape
Pencil
Nylon rope 1/4"
Tape
Scissors
Matches
T-Square

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Sand all wood pieces smooth and wipe clean with cloth.

Make a frame for the bottom of the box. Photo: Gina Provenzano

2. Make a frame from three 1" x 2" x 21" strips and 24" x 48" oak piece. Lie the oak piece on a flat work surface. Align 48" lengths along long sides of oak piece with edges even. Measure and mark center point of 48" lengths and align one 21" length between both points. Sandwich two remaining 21" lengths between long strips at both ends, edges even. Use wood glue to adhere strips to oak piece then tack in place by hammering brads every few inches, starting at least 3" from corners. This is the bottom of the box.

3. Next, on a hard surface (and with assistance), align one 48" oak board along the long side of the top of the oak piece. Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill pilot holes down through frame, oak piece and into bottom of board. Start at the corner and space holes about 12 inches apart. Avoid making a hole at the center point; instead go short or long by an inch or so. Using your screwdriver and 1 1/2" screws, secure the board in place. Repeat for the second 48"oak board.

4. Sandwich one 22 3/4" oak board between long board at one end. Secure in place in the same manner as above. Repeat on other end with remaining 22 3/4" board.

Secure the corners of the box. Photo: Gina Provenzano

5. Turn box over so boards are face up. Drill pilot holes through 48" boards into ends of shorter boards at corners. Use your screwdriver and 1 1/4" screws to secure corners of box.

6. Place cedar strips inside the box for fit. Determine if last board needs to be cut down lengthwise. If so, use hack saw to trim. Remove strips, and replace in bottom again using wood glue on the underside to secure to bottom of box. Place heavy books atop until glue dries.

Add guide strips to inside of box. Photo: Gina Provenzano

7. Measure and mark along inside of box 1/2" from top edge all around. Use wood glue to adhere a long 1/2" x 2" strip to inside of box aligning top of strip with marks for guides. Tack with 1/2" brads, or clamp until dry.

8. . Sandwich remaining 1" x 2" strip (22 1/4") between markings and flush to top edge of guides for cross bar. Drill a pilot hole through outside of box and the guide strip and into center crossbar. Use screwdriver and 1 1/2" screws to secure crossbar in place.

Secure casters to the bottom of the box. Photo: Gina Provenzano

9. Turn box over and place casters about 2" in from each corner and at center point on long side of frame. Secure in place with caster screws. Turn box right side up.

10. Set square-ish oak pieces atop guides inside box for covers. Make certain there is 1/8" space between pieces at center. Measure and mark along inside center, 3 inches in from side edges for hinge placement. Use a dab of glue and tiny screws to secure hinges to covers.

11. Measure and mark a spot center on width of cover and 2 inches from outside edge for pulls. Repeat at other side. Remove cover and place on a hard flat surface with a scrap piece of wood underneath. Drill 1/4" holes in covers at markings. Sand smooth.

12. Measure and mark the short end of box to find center from top to bottom and side to side. Measure and mark a point 2 1/2" inches on either side of marking. Drill two 1/4" holes in box end at outside markings. sand smooth and repeat at other end of box.

Make rope pulls for easy access. Photo: Gina Provenzano

13. Use tape to secure end of nylon roping. Measure and cut two 7" lengths of rope use tape to secure at cuts. Measure and cut two 12" lengths of rope in the same manner.

14. Thread smaller lengths of rope through cover holes. Knot each end to secure and trim any excess. Use match to burn and seal ends of rope. Thread longer lengths of rope through box holes. Knot ends on inside of box leaving a loose handle on outside. Trim any excess.

15. Finish outside of box with furniture wax and dry cloths, according to manufacturer's directions.

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Handmade: Modern Topsy-Turvy Cube Shelf

Gina Provenzano — 2010-01-25T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Storage & Organization, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Gina Provenzano

I've been meaning to replace that IKEA Billy bookcase in the corner of my living room for the last two years now. I wanted something more fun, more interesting, more vertical...more modern. After looking around in NYC and on the internet and not finding anything that fit my aesthetic and budget, I decided to DIY it.

Since storage is always the ultimate goal, I wanted something that had plenty of it -- including a place to hide things that are not exactly made for display. I found simple wooden cubes at a Michaels Craft store for about $20 each. For a bit more money, they even had a version with a door. Not bad...

With cubes in hand (or in arms), I set out to make my shelf unit. Not a bad end result, if I do say so myself. After I had painted the interiors of the cubes, I realized that I might have loved it even more had I opted for a honey oak-stained exterior instead of white painted. Oh well, maybe next project.

Read on to see what you'll need and how to make a modern shelf unit of your own!

P.S. I'd love to know how yours turns out...

Supplies:
5 - Wooden cubes (13.5" x 13.5" x 11.25")
Wood glue
flat head wood or sheet metal screws
Drill
Drill bit (for making pilot holes)
Phillips head screwdriver
Pencil
Measuring tape
Drop cloth
Primer paint
White paint
Contrasting color paint
Paintbrush
Sandpaper
Sealer or furniture wax and rags
Painter's tape
Decorative knobs and screws

1. Stack cubes haphazardly in desired order atop one another. Make certain the tower is balanced. As a rule of thumb, do not extend cubes in either direction by more than 5 1/4 inches. The tower should stand and be relatively sturdy without any screws. When placement is set, run a pencil to mark where the second cube sits atop the bottom first cube. Also mark cubes in number order, from the bottom up: "1" for bottom, "2" for the next one up, and so on. Then mark "L" or "R" to indicate which direction the cube will extend; left or right. Continue marking cubes in the same manner.

Gina Provenzano

2. Lie the cubes on a flat surface atop a drop cloth with the open sides face up but with space between each cube. Using the pencil markings as your guide, and starting with the bottom cube, drill 4 pilot holes in the top of the bottom cube. Do not drill outside the marked line. Dab a little wood glue on the top surface of the bottom cube. Abut the second cube to the first cube in its proper place. Using a wood screw in each pilot hole secure the first cube to the second. Continue in the same manner until all the cubes are attached. Stand the shelf to make certain it is sturdy and secure. If it feels wobbly at all, decrease the extension of one of the cubes. Allow to dry.

3. Remove knobs from cabinet doors. Lightly sand the cubes and wipe clean. Apply primer to entire surface. Allow to dry.

4. Mask off the front edges of the cubes and paint the interiors in desired color. Allow to dry. Apply a second coat, let dry and remove tape.

5. Apply painter's tape to interior edges of cubes, over blue paint. Paint exterior and edges of shelf white. Allow to dry. Apply a second coat and let dry.

6. When completely dry, apply furniture wax or sealer to entire surface according to manufacturer's directions.

Gina Provenzano

7. Place knobs on cabinet doors and use screws to secure in place.

Enjoy your new shelf unit!

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