DIY Life

DIY Ladder: Clever Uses For An Old Ladder

Jaime Derringer — 2011-09-14T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: home decor, in the kitchen, organization and storage, Crafts, wood working, Storage & Organization, Crafts & Celebrations

Take an old ladder to new heights with these fun craft-it-yourself ideas.

I'm willing to bet that you have an old step ladder in your garage or basement. You know the one -- covered in old paint with the wobbly leg. Too bad it's useless, right? Wrong! You can reuse that old ladder without stepping on a single rung. Here are a few fun ways to re-purpose that ladder and put it to good use around the house, without spending a dime.

Photos: Charles Walton IV for Southern Living/Deborah Ory for Woman's Day

If your ladder is a bit dingy, clean it up, scrape or sand off the old paint unless you're going for that shabby chic look. Tighten up that wobbly leg, and try one of these nifty ideas:

1. Bookshelf. You've seen ladder-shaped bookshelves, right? Well, obviously, they were inspired by the real thing. You can use an old ladder as a bookshelf and save yourself a lot of cash while still getting the same look.

2. Pot rack. How fun is this idea we spotted over on Woman's Day? Just take an old ladder and place it on its side, affix to the ceiling and use it to hang your pots and pans!

Do these photos inspire you to dig up your old ladder? Photos: This Old House/Living, Etc

3. Towel rack. You know those ladder towel racks that run upwards of $50 or even $75? Why not use your old ladder instead and save that money for some new bath salts or a towel upgrade?

An instant purse rack! Photo: Holly Becker, decor8

4. Plant stand. You can actually buy ladder plant stands, but why spend $99 when you have a free one collecting dust?

5. Closet organizer. Ladies, do you want somewhere to hang or rest your purse collection? What about sweaters, or maybe you need somewhere to hang your pants or rest your shoes? An old ladder in the closet is a great place to organize your clothing and accessories.

6. Nightstand. If your ladder has flat rungs that are like small shelves, you can use a ladder as a nightstand. Simply place the ladder next to the bed and use the rungs to place your alarm clock, books or magazines and phone (or whatever else you keep next to the bed).

7. Wall decor. Hang an old ladder on the wall as art! Paint it a fun color to match your room, or affix family memorabilia to the rungs and use it as a wall display.

Want more repurposing ideas? Check out 5 things you can do with an old t-shirt.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Make a Terrarium...Today!

Jaime Derringer — 2011-04-04T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Crafts & Celebrations

Why throw money away on a store-bought terrarium when you can make a beautiful, decorative one in a few hours?

Photo: ex.libris, Flickr

Terrariums make for beautiful tabletop decor. A container-based mini eco-system or garden, some terrariums contain just plants while others are home to animals, like lizards. Purchasing a terrarium can be expensive, and you can just as easily make your very own terrarium. I thought it would be fun if I gathered some instructions for you to make your own terrarium or give one as a gift this holiday season!

Materials
To complete this project you will need:

- Glass mason jar with lid, fish bowl, or any other type of glass container
- Potting soil
- Activated charcoal (sometimes called terrarium charcoal)
- Small stones, sand, pebbles, or pieces of glass (try checking out pet stores for these items)
- Spaghnum moss
- Chopsticks or bamboo skewers
- Greenery, or miniature plants
- Decorations (cake toppers, shells, or large stones)

Check out the instructions after the jump!

Here's how to do it:

1. Make sure your glass container is clean and dry.

2. Place some stones or pebbles in the bottom of the glass jar, at least 1 inch in height. This layer helps with drainage and water circulation.

3. Add a thin layer of the charcoal. The charcoal layer will help filter water and absorb odors. You definitely don't want a stinky terrarium!

4. The next layer is the moss -- lay down about an inch. If you don't like the look of moss, this step can be skipped.

5. Add a layer of potting soil on top of the moss. The amount of potting soil you will use depends on the size of your terrarium. You should use about enough soil to cover 1/4 of the container. If you are having trouble moving things around, use the bamboo skewers or chopsticks. That's what they're for!

6. Add your plants! Choose whatever varieties of plants you like from succulents to ferns. Just remember that some will do better than others, and they grow fast! Some might quickly outgrow the terrarium and need to be replanted elsewhere.

7. Decorate! If you want to add decorations to your terrarium, such as cake toppers or little figurines, do so at this stage. I would recommend waiting a week or so for the plants to get used to the new habitat before introducing and decor.

You can add small plants and other decorations like shells and rocks to your terrarium. Photo: Yogita Mehra, Flickr

Maintenance
Be sure not to water your terrarium too often or it will pool and rot your plants. Add just enough water so that the soil is moist to the touch. Using a spray bottle to spritz your terrarium is a great way to avoid overwatering.

In addition, place the terrarium where it can get some sunlight so that your plants get the necessary nutrients to thrive. Other than that, you can just sit back and admire your handiwork!

For more DIY, check out this post on Martha Stewart's best crafts -- ever!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

DIY Bedroom: A Church Pew Turned Headboard

Jaime Derringer — 2011-03-29T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: home decor, weekend projects, Bedrooms, Living Spaces

In this unique DIY bedroom idea, one woman's decorating prayers are answered.

When Faith Buss, a self described "sucker for cool old stuff," saw three old church pews that had been rescued from a little country church near her home, she knew she had to have them. She loved that the seating had history, so she decided to purchase one for $25. But after a few days, she couldn't get the other two out of her mind, so she went back for the other two.

Faith Buss

At first, she struggled because, well, what does one do with not one but three old church pews? She wasn't planning on holding any sermons in the backyard of her little yellow farmhouse in Oklahoma. (But they sure did come in handy when she hosted a youth group movie night at her house.)

Originally, she had imagined maybe putting one on the front porch as a bench, or perhaps placing another one against a plain wall inside the house, "which I don't have, but that wasn't going to stop me from buying it!" she says.

Faith, a stay-at-home mom of two and her husband, Britton, who recently lost his job, have been family-focused for the last few years, spending their time parenting, gardening and making their farmhouse a home. When one of her friends mentioned that she's seen a wooden bench made into a headboard, Faith had an idea: Why not turn one of the pews into a headboard?

Faith and Britton immediately began brainstorming how they could accomplish this. First, they'd need to cut out a spot at the center so they could position their mattress in the pew; they wanted to use the ends of the bench as nightstands. Since the pew was a bit too low, Faith says, "we considered different ways to raise it up so that the bed frame could just slide into the cut we'd make in the seat of the pew. The idea for casters (large wheels) was inspired by a coffee table I had seen in Pottery Barn with giant antique wheels on the bottom."

A church pew becomes a headboard. Photos: Faith Buss

They discovered some large, old casters in a junkyard while on vacation in Louisiana -- a steal at 4 for $20. The casters raised the heavy, solid oak pew to the perfect height. The whole project cost only $45. It just took a bit of clever DIY-ing.

She says she's endured quite a bit of joking related to the fact she's sleeping on a church pew -- even her pastor cracked a joke, but it doesn't bother Faith one bit. She just laughs it off. The headboard "speaks to the things we're trying to develop in our home. Imagination and creativity, faith and love. It's just perfect," she says.

So what about the two that are left? They're being used for a friend's outdoor wedding ceremony in September. Who knows where they might end up next!

For more clever DIY ideas, check out how to make a home bar.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

How to Paint Trim? First, Swallow Your Fear

Jaime Derringer — 2011-03-28T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: home decor, painting, Living Rooms, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces

When it comes to beautiful old trim, it's hard to cover it in paint. But sometimes it makes sense.

You bought an older house. You love it. It has character, it has charm. It has ornate baseboards, trim and moldings -- all original wood. But what if you aren't such a big fan of wood trim? What if you wanted to paint it another color? Would it look brighter and fresher with a few coats of white paint, or would you be ruining a piece of your home's history?

Photo: arsheffield, Flickr

I read Nicole Balch's Making It Lovely blog and have been following her ever since she bought her cute little 1910 bungalow in Oak Park, Illinois. She recently posted about her decision to paint her untouched original wood trim white.

It was a controversial decision. Many commenters on her blog took one side or the other. Some felt that it was sacrilegious to touch the original wood, while others were quick to whip out a paint brush and go to town.

"Painted wood trim, no matter how much you agonize over the color and paint it perfectly, is just never as special as the original wood," commented one person who objected to her decision.

"it's your home in the end, so do whatever makes you happy," said another more supportive commenter.

I asked Balch to tell me a little more about how she made the decision. It was a difficult one for her. Her Craftsman bungalow was originally a 2-bedroom/1-bath house, and the attic was converted in the 1960s or 70s to add more bedrooms and another bath. When they moved in three years ago, she was in the mindset that the trim was going to remain as is. She recalls thinking "this house has been here since 1910 with its natural wood in tact. I'm not going to be the one to change it."

However, after years of decorating around the wood trim and trying her hardest to live with it, she gave in to her desire for white trim. "We're going to be here for a while, and I want to be happy with the way my home looks...I've always liked the look of white trim more than stained wood." Ultimately, she needed to make the right decorating decision for her since she is the one who has to look at it ever day. "This is where my family actually lives, not a historical time capsule," she wrote on her blog.

A few things influenced her decision. First, the trim wasn't in the best shape. There were signs of wear and tear that would be easier to hide and freshen up with a few coats of white paint. Also, the wood itself is fir and paint-grade quality. Perhaps she would have reconsidered had her trim been flawless mahogany?

Nicole's dining room before and after. Photos: Nicole Balch

But when she first put that paintbrush to wood, was she sure she'd made the right decision? "I was 97% sure...but that 3% of doubt had my stomach in knots. What if I didn't like it? What if I was ruining my house or driving it's value down?"

I'm sure we would all have had the same doubts. After 15 hours, one coat of primer and two coats of paint, Balch can happily say that she made the right choice. She says she doesn't mind the nay-sayers: "[At first] it can be hard to move past worrying about what other people will think, especially the hypothetical future people that may live in your home after you. The best way to approach it is to think about what will make you happy. If you really love the look of painted trim and the natural wood isn't doing it for you, go ahead and pick up that paint brush."

After all, it's you who lives there.

Need more decorating help? Don't miss:
Great Walls Without Paint
How to Think Like An Interior Designer
Decorating Styles 101: Comfy and Casual

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

DIY Home Humidifiers: Humidify Your Home for Less

Jaime Derringer — 2011-02-15T13:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Bedrooms, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

In the second installment of our Humidifier 101 series, we take a closer look at home humidifiers. Here are some DIY ways to humidify your home on the cheap.

Placing bowls of water around your home is a simple way to add moisture to the air -- without the cost of buying a humidifier. Chimpr, Flickr

The cold winter weather outside, coupled by indoor heating systems, easily sucks all the moisture out of your home. Low humidity levels can also lead to a host of problems including dry skin, sore throats, along with cracks in paint and wood furniture. Adding a humidifier is an easy way to replace this lost moisture in your home, but at times humidifiers can require high maintenance and more space and money than you would like to expend. Luckily, even on the tightest of budgets, there are inexpensive tricks to humidify your home.

Essentially a humidifier boils water and evaporates it into the air. These basics make it easy to achieve the same effect without purchasing another gadget. Keep in mind that there are store-bought humidifiers that can be attained at affordable prices, plus have a greater reach than homemade options. But if you're in a pinch or need relief ASAP, these DIY humidifiers will do the trick:

Getty Images

- Boil a large pot of water on the stove. This releases moisture into the air in the form of steam; the same way as a humidifier. The downside to this method is that the moisture is limited to the area in close proximity to the stove. If you want to circulate the moist air, add a fan next to the stove to blow the air out and away, increasing it's reach.

Getty Images

- Run hot water in the shower to produce steam. Alternatively, if you take baths, leave the water in the tub after you've finished bathing. Both are short-term solutions that can help those suffering through a cold. However, they're not without their drawbacks. First, you're wasting quite a bit of water, which can be expensive. In addition, the steam won't extend a great distance from the bathroom. So a fan is also needed or you'll have to sit in the bathroom to absorb the increased humidity. Like boiling water on the stove, you cannot run your shower all night. Therefore, this is a very short-term option that can be much more expensive and wasteful than purchasing an inexpensive humidifier.

- Place bowls of water around your home. Similar to the way houseplants emit water vapor like living humidifiers, the water from the bowls will evaporate and add moisture to the air. Increase the humidity even more by placing a water bowl on top of a radiator to heat the water. Avoid placing the water bowls near electrical devices.

SEE ALSO:
Humidifiers 101: Say Goodbye to Dry Air
5 Humidifiers to Consider [Apartment Therapy]
How to Humidify Your Home [Lowes]
Controlling Humidity Levels at Home [Re-nest]
The Best Humidifiers [Switch]

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Humidifiers 101 - Say Goodbye to Dry Air

Jaime Derringer — 2011-02-10T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Increase indoor air moisture and lower your heating bills with a humidifier.

Dry winter air can batter your home and health. Boost moisture with a humidifier. Mek22, Flickr

Suffering from cracked skin and dryness in your nose and throat? Blame your environment.

Winter air holds less moisture than the warm air of spring and summer. Increasing the temperature on your thermostat may feel like the wise move to stay toasty, but it's actually making already dry air worse by sucking out any existing moisture.

Dry, scratchy throats in the winter can be caused low humidity in the air. Photo: Corbis

Dry air causes a lot of things we associate with winter: static electricity, chapped lips, sore throats, dry skin, increased susceptibility to colds and irritation to those who suffer from asthma. Also, wood floors, indoor paint and electronics can sustain damage from low humidity levels. So if you find yourself doubling up on lotion and lip balm, using an inordinate amount of Static Guard and popping throat lozenges like candy, it's time to replace the lost humidity in your home by adding a humidifier.

Humidifiers are devices that use water vapor to increase moisture levels in the air and remove airborne allergens and dust. And because humidity holds heat, using humidifiers in your home can increase the temperature inside by as much as 15 degrees.

There are two major types of humidifiers on the market: warm mist and cool mist. Read on to know which kind is right for you.

Warm Mist Humidifiers
Warm mist humidifiers use electricity to boil water and produce steam. These humidifiers are very effective, but if you use them for too long the air can become stale and feel a bit muggy. Also, these devices can get hot to the touch, so take precautions when using them around small children.

(Left) Vicks Warm Mist Humidifier. Photo: Amazon; (Right) Vicks Warm Steam Vaporizer. Photo: Walgreens

There are two main types of warm mist humidifiers: warm mist and steam vaporizers.

- Warm mist: These units use a heating element that heats the water before evaporating it into the air. Before it's released, the humidifier cools the steam slightly so that it doesn't come out extremely hot.

- Steam vaporizers: These devices boil the water, which is sent out into the air as hot steam. The boiling process helps kill any mold or bacteria. You can add medicine or aromatherapy to these humidifiers, and create a warm, humid environment to keep noses and chests clear at night. Steam vaporizers do not cool the air at all before it is released, so they can become extremely hot.

Cool Mist Humidifiers
Vapor from the machine is not heated, so there is no risk for burning, making them ideal for use children's rooms. There are three different types of cool mist humidifiers: evaporation wick/evaporative, impeller and ultrasonic.

(Clockwise from left) Multi-room Cool Mist Evaporative Humidifier. Photo: Humidifiers.com; Sunbeam Health Impeller Humidifier. Photo: Sears; Crane Cool Mist Ultrasonic Humidifier. Photo: Bed Bath & Beyond

- Evaporative wick/evaporative: These humidifiers use a fan to blow out cool evaporated water that gets absorbed through a wick or filter. These humidifiers self-regulate -- when the moisture in the air increases, the rate at which the humidifier releases more mist is slowed. A drawback to cool-mist humidifiers is that the fan can become noisy and make it difficult to sleep when running it through the night. Evaporative humidifiers are fairly affordable.

- Impeller: Impellers use a rotating disk in the water to create mist, which is slightly less noisy than the evaporative fan.

- Ultrasonic: These humidifiers use sound waves or vibrations to create water droplets, so they are the quietest of the three cool mist options. These tend to be the most expensive of the three.

Concerns about Humidifiers
There is such a thing as too much humidity, which can be a breeding ground for mold and bacteria. Keep indoor humidity levels in the range of 35 to 55 percent or so; anything above 60 percent is to high and anything under 30 percent is too dry. Opt for a humidifier that has a built-in humidistat, which is basically a thermostat for humidity. Alternatively, you can buy one for your home. Also, don't keep your humidifiers running all day and night. Turn them down or off, and use a dehumidifier if levels get too high, especially during the summer.

And finally, it is very important to clean humidifier frequently to prevent dormant water from turning into a pool of bacteria, mold and mildew. Therefore, while a tad inconvenient, to follow the manufacturer's instructions for cleaning which usually entails washing on a daily basis with soap and water.

SEE ALSO:
Lower Your Home Eating Bills
Controlling Humidity Levels at Home [Re-nest]
The Best Humidifiers [Switch]

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Christmas Light Troubleshooting

Jaime Derringer — 2010-12-11T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Holidays, Crafts & Celebrations

Don't let tangled up wires or burnt out bulbs bring out the Grinch in you. We've got foolproof solutions to your Christmas light conundrums.

Photo: Getty Images

There's something about the glow of holiday lights that makes me feel all warm and toasty on the inside, even in the heart of winter. Hanging lights is a project that, for most DIYers, is fairly easy to do, even outdoors in the cold. But let's face it: the preparation can really burn you out -- literally.

If you're like me, you've probably spent each holiday season cursing at an enormous mass of tangled strings of lights, trying to figure out where to start. And it's not like you have anyone to blame but yourself, really. Tangles happen when you don't put away Christmas lights properly the year before. Sure, string lights never look as neat and tidy as they did when they were in the package, just like your fitted sheet never does fold quite as neatly after first use. But there are ways that you can minimize the headache of de-tangling lights for Christmases yet to come.

Untangling Christmas Lights
First, locate the plug (it's chunky so it should be easy to spot) and use it as your guide. Gently work the plug in and out of the wires, unwinding the strands little by little as you go. Don't let go of the plug, and don't pull too hard, as you can damage the lights. As you untangle, keep the lines straight and lay them out on the floor or wrap them around your arm from hand to elbow (like a hose).

Locating a Burnt Out Bulb in Christmas Lights
Even though your lights are now untangled, you're not completely out of the woods yet. You're bound to find at least one -- or a series -- of burnt out lights on your string. Since Christmas lights are wired together, one bad bulb can cause electricity to stop flowing properly, and it can look like you have a series of bad bulbs when, in fact, it's just one bad apple causing the problem.

You best bet is to check for burnt out bulbs before you decorate by plugging them in indoors and giving the string a once-over. Sometimes, you can spot the bad bulbs without even plugging them in; burnt out bulbs are usually dark in the center, almost black. Other times, a bad bulb is not so easy to spot. There are a few options to help you locate the bad seed. The LightKeeper PRO is a product that gives the bulb a jolt of electricity, which can re-complete the circuit making the dead bulb easier to locate.

LightKeeper PRO

If that doesn't work, you can also use the LightKeeper PRO as a hum tracer. A hum tracer, which you can buy at your local hardware store, detects whether there is electricity running through a wire by making a humming sound. To use a hum tracer, you must first locate the bulb wire. On a strand of lights there are typically three wires together: the "hot" wire with the live AC current, "cold" or ground wire and the bulb wire. You will want to separate out the bulb wire and run the hum tracer along the bulb wire. Where the hum stops is where you likely have the bad bulb. If there are multiples, mark them with a piece of masking tape so you can go back and replace them all at once.

Once you've located a burnt bulb, you can easily replace it with a backup. When you purchase a set of Christmas lights, often times there are some extra bulbs included for this situation. I recommend also purchasing an extra strand of lights as well in case you have a serious outage.

Before you replace a bulb, be sure to unplug the lights from the wall and give the bulbs time to cool off before touching them. The bulb will simply pop out of its base and you can snap a new bulb right in. Plug the lights back in to retest them. If that didn't work, you may have another bad bulb somewhere on that strand or you will need to replace the whole strand. If you have to toss them, instead try taking them to your local Home Depot for a trade!

Storing Christmas Lights Properly
When it's time to put your lights away for the year (I know you don't really want to think about that yet), wrap the strands around the inserts that came with your lights. If you don't have the original packaging, cut a piece of cardboard from a box and wrap the lights around that. Using a permanent marker, label each piece of cardboard to indicate which lights are for what (i.e., "icicles," "tree", "front bushes", "wreaths").

Another option is to use wrapping paper tubes. Save all those cardboard tubes once you're done wrapping your presents, cut slits in both ends and wrap the lights around, threading the ends just like thread on a spool.

Or check out this great tip from blogger Oh Amanda on how she and her husband wrangle their lights.

Neu Home Holiday Lights Storage Box

A great product to help make Christmas light storage easier is the Neu Home Holiday Lights Storage Box, which sells for less than $10. Iit's a nice neat little package that guarantees a less frustrating decking of your halls next year. Just wind the strings of lights up on the bobbin-like organizers and place them in the box. You can even label each spool to easily locate the right set of lights.

SEE ALSO:
Unusual Uses for Christmas Items
Display Outdoor Christmas Lights Safely (Lifehacker)
Video: DIY Holiday Garland (Holidash)
Christmas Decorating with Celebrity Brooke Burke (ShelterPop)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Quiz: What's Your DIY Personality?

Jaime Derringer — 2010-11-08T12:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Makeovers & Inspiration, Essential Skills, Know-How

When it comes to DIY, are you do or die? Or would you rather die than DIY? Take our quiz to find out!

When it comes to DIY, are you this guy or that guy? Photos: (left) Getty Images; (right) Corbis

All DIYers are not created equal. There are those of us who consider doing our dishes a do-it-yourself project. Others are so natural with power tools you'd think they used them for a living (and some do!).

So we thought it would be fun to see what kind of personalities you -- our readers -- have when it comes to your DIY projects. Choose an answer to each of the following scenarios, then add up your selections to see which DIY personality fits you.

http://xml.channel.aol.com/xmlpublisher/fetch.v2.xml?option=expand_relative_urls&dataUrlNodes=moreQuizzes&id=951844&pid=951843&uts=1289237736

http://www.aolcdn.com/ke/personality_quiz/personalityquiz.swf

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Organize Your e-Clutter Like a Pro

Jaime Derringer — 2010-10-05T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

According to professional organizer Justin Klosky, it should take you no less than 10 seconds to locate a specific file on your computer. Would you pass the test?

If your computer's desktop resembles this one, it's time to sort through your e-clutter. Photo: Jaime Derringer

If your desktop looks like the one pictured above, you suffer from a common case of e-clutter. Professional organizer Justin Klosky -- who, last week, taught us how to digitize our lives for ultimate organization -- defines e-clutter as an assortment of computer files that you save but rarely use on a daily basis. Unorganized documents, bookmarks and folders turn your computer into a virtual disaster area, making it nearly impossible to locate items without conducting a search.

The solution? Patience, time and the will to tackle the problem. There is no exact science or step-by-step procedure that will help you organize your digital files. Organization is very personal, and Justin stresses that you need to organize the way in which you will be able to find everything easily. Here's Justin's suggested method.

Step 1: Purge unnecessary files.
Just like you would for physical clutter, set aside some time to devote to the task of trashing unwanted digital files. This includes documents, images, Open up each file individually and ask yourself: "do I need to keep this?" If the answer is truly "no" -- if you have no need for the file and never will -- delete it. If your desktop is full of bookmarks, save them in the appropriate bookmark folder for your browser. Justin notes that you should bookmark items sparingly. It can often be faster to look for something in a search engine with keywords than hunt through thousands of bookmarks and random files.

Step 2. Start organizing the files you're keeping.
Now that you're left with all of the important files, assign them appropriate folders; if nothing appropriate exists, create a new folder for like documents, but be judicious about it. Justin explains that there shouldn't be one folder with 1000 files in it. Try to keep main folders to a minimum and create sub-folders; organization through sub-folders will not only keep your desktop neat but will also help you locate files even faster.

When creating folders on your computer to store files, choose a structure that fits your lifestyle and keep your filing system intuitive to you. Justin recommends thinking of each digital item as something tangible. Ask yourself, "if I were holding this document or CD in my hand, what would I do with it? Where would I file it away?" For instance, if you notice that you use a few specific documents every day, you may want to create a special folder and put those items in that folder. You can also create shortcuts to folders that you use often, and place those on your desktop or in your dock instead of the actual folders and files themselves.

Step 3. Create useful naming conventions.
Name your files in a way that is easy for you to find them. For example, if you're saving a strawberry shortcake dessert recipe, name the file exactly what is in the document. Use underscores or hyphens if you would like to create space in between words. If you'd like, you can also include information about where the file is from or a notable date. For example, you might name the recipe file "strawberry-shortcake-recipe-Real-Simple-Aug-2009.pdf" or "moms_famous_strawberry_shortcake.pdf". There is no one exact way to name files, but those two examples are certainly easier to identify than IMG_4058.pdf.

Step 4. Stick to your system.
This is the "discipline" part of Justin's program. Once you've organized everything, you need to maintain your system -- don't start saving new documents on your desktop again. Instead, when you find a system that works for you, stick with it. When you look back on all of the time you spent organizing and naming everything, it will be worth keeping this system in place to avoid the clutter once again.

Tacking Email Clutter
Does your inbox contain every email you've ever received? Do you have a hard time parting with emails? Justin says that it's okay to save your emails -- as long as you file them away. Here are his best practices for a clutter-free inbox:

1. Don't feel the pressure to delete. Justin says that the beauty of email is that you don't need to delete emails if it makes you uncomfortable. Simply save an email archive and back it up onto an external hard drive just like you do with your other files.

2. Just as you create folders and sub-folders on your computer, do the same in your email program. If you use Gmail, create labels. Use these to group similar emails and move them out of your inbox. You might decide to group emails from a certain person into one folder, or maybe you need one folder for business and one for travel. It all depends on your needs.

3. Back up your old emails into a email archive file, organized in any way you wish. Justin recommends doing it every year -- simply back up your emails from 2010 into an archive file called "2010_emails" and then remove those emails from the program. If you need to go back to these emails, you can import them when you need to. Archiving these will also make your program faster, which will save you more time. Most email programs have an easy way to archive your mail.

SEE ALSO:
'Toasted Skin Syndrome' Caused by Extreme Laptop Heat (Engadget)
The Best Sites, Numbers, and Forms for Banishing Junk Mail (Lifehacker)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Go Digital and Get Organized for Good

Jaime Derringer — 2010-09-30T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Storage & Organization, Know-How

We spoke to Justin Klosky, a professional organizer who specializes in helping people go digital in every aspect of their lives. He shows us how to get started today.

Justin Klosky

No matter where you live or what you do, organization and storage are crucial -- and usually a challenge. In the past decade, digital systems have introduced efficient new ways for us to get get a handle on our endless amounts of documents, photos, recipes, magazine articles...the list goes on. Now, if you're one of many Americas who still pay your bills by "snail mail," just consider how many of your paper bills could easily be stored via your computer. Imagine how much storage space you could free up in your home if you were to eliminate the physical clutter by digitizing it all.

I spoke with organization guru Justin Klosky, founder of The OCD Experience -- OCD stands for "Organize & Create Discipline." Justin trains clients to systematically digitize and organize their lives. "In other words, I'm trying to teach them simple ways to make their lives easier and more functional," Justin explains.

Organization expert Justin Klosky. Photo: Justin Klosky

Justin started as a traditional organization professional and introduced digital services to his business lineup when he began to realize how much we rely on electronic files. Photos, CDs, books and videos -- many of the things we used to physically hold in our hands -- are now entrenched on computer hard drives. That's when it clicked: Justin realized that the secret to an organized life was to go digital in every aspect, from recipes, magazine and newspaper clippings and greeting cards to health records, insurance documents and bills.

But it's not just the act of digitizing that counts. According to Justin, even digital organization requires maintenance or it will all fall apart. Justin is invested in teaching people the discipline that allows organization to become a lifestyle change rather than a seasonal chore.

The sooner you begin digitizing your life, the easier things will become as technology advances.

Digitize and Organize Your Paper Items
The easiest way to digitize your paper documents is to buy a good all-in-one copier/printer/scanner that comes with great software. Justin often recommends Canon products to his clients because their software is very user-friendly and intuitive.

The most efficient way to start digitizing is to scan an item, create a folder for it on your computer, and give the folder an obvious name, such as "Greeting Cards" and "Insurance Documents." Eventually, you'll have folders for all of the major categories, and each item will start to fall into place. From there, create subfolders. For instance, Justin recommends creating a main folder called "Recipes" and sub-folders related to specific meals like "Entrees" and "Side Dishes." But put a limit on the amount you create, otherwise you may undermine your whole strategy of finding things quickly.

I know what you're thinking: "I have seven years of tax returns and 12 photo albums -- how can I scan all of it?!?" First, identify what you plan on tackling. Set those items aside within view. Once a week or once a day, simply scan a handful of items or file 10 e-documents into a folder. There is no rush, Justin says, but you need to do it.

Tip: When scanning magazine articles, Justin also suggests including a copy of the magazine's cover page so you can identify the issue and its publication date.

Organize Your Digital Photos
Thanks to digital photography, you no longer have to use bulky photo albums to store your photos (unless you want to, of course). So the idea behind organizing your photos is not to reduce physical clutter, but to reduce e-clutter; essentially, to find a way to recall each photo as quickly as possible.

Justin suggests using Picasa, a free software program by Google. Picasa makes it easier to sort, create photos albums and tag images. You can also create a web-based account to upload and share photos via the web. "No program is going to do everything for you," Justin warns, so it is important for you to maintain the organizational structure that you create for the files you upload.

Tip: If you're uncomfortable throwing away certain photos, scan them anyway but keep the originals and hang them on the wall or turn them into coasters. There's no need to throw something away that you feel is valuable to your life. However, Justin warns against falling victim to amassing a collection of "important" things. "If everything is important, then nothing is important," he says.

Organize Your Music
Thanks to MP3s, you (probably) don't have to deal with finding storage for your growing CD collection -- but that doesn't mean you're done with the clutter. Get your tunes in order with a helpful music program that will take on the responsibility of organizing. Programs like iTunes will rename your files and organize your music folders for you, so take advantage of this option. But, you need to be sure to save all your mp3s in the same place before importing them into the program.

Digitize and Organize Your Finances
Get rid of the checks, bank books and paper bills and organize your finances with a program like Quicken. Once you've taken the time to create all the custom information including categories and tags needed you will have them year after year to help you balance your bank book and pay bills on time. The money management and budgeting features alone are worth the time investment.

Create folders for other important personal items, such as "Health & Insurance," "Taxes," and "Receipts." Scan the necessary items and file them in your newly created folders. Now you can shred the original paper sources.

Tip: Scan receipts for purchases over $250; you can trash the rest.

Preserve Your Files
In order to prevent the nervous breakdown that will occur if your computer crashes, Justin recommends investing in a Western Digital external hard drive to back up your computer files. Western Digital has a program called WD Anywhere Backup that will easily assist you in backing up your files.

SEE ALSO:
Use Your Digital Camera as a Tool
Scanning Documents to Reduce Clutter (Unclutterer)
Tips to Shed Your Magazine Collection (Apartment Therapy)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

DIY Book Pick: Make It! Hardware Store Decor

Jaime Derringer — 2010-09-22T14:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Crafts & Celebrations

Hardware store chic? It's true! You can make stylish accessories for the home using materials from your local hardware store. DIY site Curbly breaks 12 DIY projects down to the nuts and bolts in this new release-- and they shared one of the book's best projects with us: The light-up LED umbrella stand -- made with PVC pipe!

Curbly's new book features unique projects for the modern DIYer Photo: Curbly

One of our favorite DIY community websites, Curbly, has just released an exciting new book, Make It! Hardware Store Decor -- and we're loving what we see!

The 78-page tome offers step-by-step instructions (along with stunning visuals!) for 12 stylish and inspired household accessories -- each of which uses parts, tools, and materials that can all be found in the aisles of your local hardware store! Sound iffy? Trust us: Beyond the wrenches, screwdrivers and light bulbs lie some majorly stylish pieces that your friends will surely assume you bought at HomeGoods. Best of all, each of these projects can be finished in a day or a weekend -- and for a lot less than you'd pay for store-bought versions.

The book is available now for $9.99 as a high-quality PDF download or a gift-worthy printed copy for $22. Curbly gave DIY Life a sneak peek into one of the projects from the book.

Other projects from the book include a bookshelf and lighted letter wall decor. Photo: Curbly

LIGHT-UP PLUMBING-PIPE UMBRELLA STAND
Have you ever been standing in the plumbing aisle of your home improvement store and thought, "Wow, this pipe would make a great umbrella stand!"? Yeah, me neither. But the Curbly editors have that special ability to see great potential in raw materials. They came up with this light-up, plumbing-pipe umbrella stand-- one of our favorite projects in the book. In just 10 easy steps you can have a brand new foyer accessory -- perfect for those rainy autumn days.

Plumbing pipe umbrella stand. Photo: Curbly

Materials:
- A length of PVC pipe, 6" x 24"
- Spray paint for the inside of the pipe
- Spray primer
- Fabric of your choice, 3/4 yard (for the outside of the pipe)
- A jar of matte ModPodge
- Clear Plexiglas material, 8"x10" x 1/4"
- Two pieces of Masonite, 8"x10" x 1/4"
- One tube of clear silicone adhesive
- Galvanized steel corrugated furnace round end cap, 6" diameter X 2 1/2"
- LED light rope (used in this project) or battery-operated LED lights, 6' length

Tools:
- Scissors
- Drill and 1/4" drill bit
- Utility knife
- Jigsaw
- Metal snips
- #18 fine jigsaw blades
- Three small clamps
- One large set of pipe clamps (or something to stabilize the pipe while drilling holes)
- Plastic container to soak fabric in Mod Podge
- Clean rags
- Foam brush
- Fine-grit sandpaper

Instructions

1. Clean and prime the pipe.
Clean off the PVC pipe with soap and water. Cover any printing on the outside of the pipe with spray paint primer. Spray paint the inside of the pipe with a color that coordinates with the fabric that you've chosen for the outside. Let the paint and primer dry.

2. Cut the fabric to size.
Measure the circumference of the pipe and cut a piece of fabric that will wrap around the pipe with an overlap of 2". The length of the fabric will be 27", so there's a little extra at the top and bottom for adjustments.

Steps 1 through 3. Photo: Curbly

3. Prepare and wrap the fabric around the pipe.
Soak the fabric in a container of Mod Podge. Gently squeeze out the excess glue. Wrap the fabric around the pipe, smoothing out any wrinkles and bubbles. Make sure the fabric's pattern and weave (the direction of the thread pattern) stay straight and don't stretch on the diagonal. Align the design all the way around the pipe. One cut side of the fabric will adhere to the pipe. Fold the other cut edge over one inch, forming a fold in the fabric. Wrap that folded edge on top of the cut edge that has already been adhered to the pipe. The folded edge covers the cut edge and forms the seam at the very back of the umbrella stand. Let the wrapped fabric dry completely around the pipe before proceeding to step 4.

4. Drill holes into the pipe.
You want to drill holes into the pipe to let the light shine through. Determine where you'll drill the holes (mark the spots with pencil) and re-apply a coat of ModPodge to those areas. Let it dry. Stabilize the round pipe by attaching pipe clamps or attaching it to the workbench with C-clamps so it doesn't roll during the drilling. Use the 1⁄4" or larger drill bit to drill symmetrical holes all around the pipe.

Step 5. Photo: Curbly

5. Clean the drilled holes.
Use the blunt end of a round handle or another tool to push the drilled-through fabric back inside each hole, twisting it a little bit to get it to stay. If the fabric around the hole is frayed or shredded, add some Mod Podge keep it in place.

6. Trim the excess fabric.
Use a utility knife to cut off the excess fabric at the top and bottom of the pipe. The fabric should cover the edge of the pipe without folding over inside it. Draw a 1" square on the back side of the bottom portion of the pipe. Cut the square out with a jigsaw and a #18 blade. This square hole will allow the LED wire to pass through.

7. Measure and cut Plexiglas and Masonite.
Trace one end of the pipe onto one piece of the Masonite. Measure in 3/8" from that line to make a pattern. Sandwich the Plexiglas between two pieces of Masonite and attach three small clamps. Cut out the circle with the jigsaw. The Masonite stabilizes the Plexiglas so it won't crack. File down the edges of the circle with a sander or sandpaper so that it will just fit inside the bottom of the pipe.

8. Waterproof the LED lights.
To ensure the LED lights will remain dry, attach the Plexiglas inside the bottom of the pipe with silicone adhesive. Measure and mark 3" from the bottom of the pipe. Run a small bead of silicone adhesive all the way around the inside at that 3" mark. Gently place the Plexiglas up against the silicone and let it dry. Run another bead of silicone up against the bottom of the Plexiglas and let that dry.

Steps 8 through 10. Photo: Curbly

9. Create a channel to house the LED cord.
Cut two lines into the the corrugated edge of the furnace cap, stopping 1/2" before the bottom lip. Use the needle nose pliers to roll the cut end over towards the outside. This opening will align with the groove in the pipe bottom to accommodate the electrical cord.

10. Fit the end-cap into the pipe.
Place the coiled LED light rope into the steel end-cap and gently bend the corrugated rim so it will fit inside the bottom of the pipe. It doesn't have to fit all the way down into the pipe. Gently tap the cap into the end of the pipe as far as it will go.

For the rest of the instructional photos and 11 other exciting DIY projects, get your copy of Make It! Hardware Store Decor.

SEE ALSO:
DIY: Make Your Own Room Divider
Paint: Turn a Dingy Kitchen into a Dream

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Fall Maintenance: Clean Your Fireplace

Jaime Derringer — 2010-09-22T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Living Spaces

Fall is the perfect time to start prepping your fireplace for winter. Whether it's wood-burning, gas or electric, here are tips to clean your fireplace and get it in tip-top shape before frosty temperatures hit.

ASurroca, Flickr

Given what happened last winter on the East Coast -- despite a milder winter prediction -- we should all be prepared for the season's worst. Part of this preparation includes inspecting and cleaning the accumulation of soot, ashes and debris from your wood-burning, gas or electric fireplace. Doing this will assure safe and efficient heating of your home come winter.

Cleaning an Electric Fireplace
Electric fireplaces are very easy to clean and maintain, which makes them appealing to homeowners. There's no need to worry about logs or soot because freestanding electric fireplaces and electric fireplace inserts do not have actual flames. They run strictly on electricity, plugging right into your electrical outlet.

Take the following steps to prepare your electric fireplace for winter:

1. Check the electrical components (any wires or plugs) to ensure that they're in good working order. If anything seems worn or frayed, consult a professional to replace or repair the damage.

Getty Images

2. Dust the interior and remove any debris that could become a fire hazard. Use a vacuum cleaner if necessary. Unused fireplaces get dusty just like every other surface in your home. If your fireplace has brass accents, clean those with soap and water or something acidic like a vinegar-and-salt mixture (you can even try mild Tabasco or Worcestershire sauce). Clean both sides of the glass enclosure with a glass cleaner of your choice, and dust electrical components gently.

3. Plug the fireplace in and test it to make sure that it is working properly. If not, investigate the problem by plugging another electrical item into the same outlet. If there is no power to that device, this might be an electrical issue and you'll need to consult with an electrician.

Cleaning a Gas Fireplace
Similar to the way a gas stove generates heat, a gas fireplace consists of an insert (which usually looks like a set of wood logs) and a pilot light that taps into your gas line. If this is the first time you're using the fireplace since last winter, or the fireplace does not light after a few attempts, you may need to check to make sure the pilot light is lit. If not, light the pilot light.

Take these steps to clean and prepare your gas fireplace for winter:

1. Make sure the gas valve is turned off. Next, check again just to be sure.

2. Inspect for damage. Check the logs, lines, valves and other burner equipment to make sure there isn't any damage, such as rust, flaking, or cracked or chipped logs.

3. Remove the gas log insert and dust it with a dry rag. You can also vacuum (using the crevice tool) it if there are nooks and crannies that you can't reach with a rag. Another idea is to use a soft paint brush to brush away the dirt. Be gentle cleaning the insert, as the logs are usually fragile.

4. Use a vacuum to clean inside the fireplace, removing any dirt or spider webs that might have collected over the seasons. Place the insert carefully back inside the firebox.

5. Clean both sides of the glass with a window cleaner and then wipe the exterior with a damp cloth or a duster.

6. Take a look at the vents. If your gas fireplace is vented, use a flashlight to check (the vents are located at the top of the unit) and make sure there are no blockages. This is especially important because if there is something blocking the gas from escaping, dangerous carbon monoxide fumes could enter your home.

7. Test your fireplace to make sure that it is working properly. Turn the gas back on and light the pilot light. If the pilot light is out or the fireplace is not working properly, call a technician.

joesuspense, Flickr

Cleaning a Wood Burning Fireplace
A wood-burning fireplace is by far the dirtiest fireplace there is. With the comfort and coziness of real wood burning comes soot, smoke, dirt, dust, debris -- even critters! Plus, it also requires constant maintenance throughout the winter -- removing ashes and adding new wood.

Here's how to prepare and clean your wood-burning fireplace:

1. Give the exterior and interior a good once-over. Take note of any damage and missing or broken parts. Look outside at the exterior of your chimney. Any cracks will need to be repaired.

2. Check the flu for leaves, birds nests and other critters. Shine a flashlight up the chimney via a mirror. If you see anything odd, call a chimney sweep (yes they are still around!)

3. Assess how much cleaning is needed. If you have layers of ash that are one or more inches thick, you're in for a dirty job. Cleaning a wood-burning fireplace is a messy task, so old clothing and rubber gloves are necessary. Place a protective drop cloth in front of the fireplace to protect your floors and carpeting from soot. Also, make sure to grab a shovel if your ash bed is high.

4. Remove the layers of ash and debris using a vacuum cleaner (or shovel if necessary). Put it all into a trash bag and place aside.

5. Scrub the fireplace. Using a scrub brush and a bucket full of soapy water, scrub the inside walls and floor of the fireplace. You can also use a mixture of trisodium phosphate (TSP) and water. TSP is a harsh chemical so it should only be used for ultra-dirty jobs. Be sure to wear extra protective gloves and eye protection when handling TSP.

Tip: Don't scrub too hard on older brick. Doing this might cause it to crumble.

7. Clean fireplace accessories. Screens, fireplace tools and log beds also get dirty and need to be cleaned. You can clean glass screens with a household glass cleaner. Mesh screens can be vacuumed. Tools can be cleaned inside or outdoors; give them a once-over with the scrub brush and soapy water, then spray them off with a hose. If you clean the tools inside, rinse each tool with water in your utility sink or using the spray nozzle in your kitchen sink.

8. Clean your fireplace hearth with a duster or damp rag.

Now, all you have to do is wait for the cold weather so you can curl up by the fire with a cup of hot chocolate!

SEE ALSO:
Can a Wood Stove Save You Money?
DIY Warrior: Makeover Your Fireplace

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

The Daily Fix: Remove Melted Lip Balm from Clothing

Jaime Derringer — 2010-09-10T16:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Wax on? Wax off! Get rid of lip balm stains in clothing and upholstery with these simple DIY solutions.

Oops -- you certainly didn't mean to leave that lip balm in your pants pocket when it went through the wash, but now you're stuck with melted ickiness on your favorite pair of jeans.

I spoke to John Mahdessian, President of Madame Paulette, the premier cleaning house in New York. He assured me that it is possible to remove lip balm stains at home. So before you run off to the cleaners, check out his professional advice.

rbbaird, Flickr

I first wanted to find out which ingredients are to blame in a lip balm stain. I found out that most popular lip balms -- like Chapstick and Carmex -- have a base made of wax and various oils with added preservatives and coloring. (Natural lip balms -- like Chapstick 100% Naturals and Burt's Bees -- don't contain preservatives.) John explained that a lip balm that contains SPF shouldn't make a difference with regard to stain removal.

Because different lip balms use different oils, you may need to combine a few of the methods listed below to fully remove the stain. Just don't let the stain sit. "Quick action is key," John explains. "So the sooner you try to repair the stain, the better."

Step 1: Remove the wax.
John recommends that you place the item in freezer and wait until the wax freezes, then scrape off the residue. Or you can go the opposite route and iron out the wax using a cloth barrier (such as a paper towel), which will absorb the wax as it liquefies.

Step 2: Remove the oil.
If your lip balm is primarily oil-based or there is a lot of oily residue leftover after you remove the wax, treat the residue like a grease stain. John recommends the following home remedy for oil/grease stains:

Create a solution using two tablespoons of dishwashing liquid (like Palmolive or Seventh Generation Natural Dish Liquid) and one tablespoon of white vinegar. Place an absorbent white cloth under the stain and dab the stain lightly with a paper towel or another cloth. Try to break the stain down and pass through to the cloth. Then, flush with lukewarm water.

If there is a dye or color added into the balm, John recommends that you "take special precautions, as an at home remedy could result a new stain." Be sure to use a dye-free, clear cleaning agent --like Arm & Hammer's Perfume- and Dye-Free Laundry Detergent -- that will not result in discoloration, fading or an additional stain.

The above recommendations are for most easy-to-clean fabrics, like cotton. However, certain delicate fabrics, such as wool or silk, may need to be cleaned more gently. With wool, it's important to "carefully clean those items and keep a watchful eye to prevent shrinking," John explained. He also said that silk and hand-painted fabrics can be especially difficult and can be easily damaged. If you're not comfortable cleaning delicate ite,s yourself, it's a good idea to take it to a professional like Madame Paulette, or search for a reputable cleaner in your area.

For more clothing tips, check out our posts on How to remove grass stains and How to remove sweat stains.

SEE ALSO:
Make Your Own Lip Balm (Not Martha)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

The Daily Fix: Replace Your Vacuum Cleaner's Drive Belt

Jaime Derringer — 2010-09-08T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Your vacuum cleaner's drive belt helps operate the machine's rotating brush, which dislodges dirt and dust. When it wears out, the vacuum will still operate -- it just won't do its job. Here's how to fix that.

marie-ll, Flickr

Picture this: you're suctioning up dust and dog hair when all of a sudden your vacuum cleaner makes a loud noise and stops working or ceases to pick anything as it runs. Most of the time the culprit is a broken vacuum cleaner drive belt, which is a fairly easy (albeit dirty) problem to repair.

Contrary to its name, a vacuum cleaner doesn't actually create a true vacuum; instead, it removes dirt from your floors using reduced air pressure in an enclosed chamber (the air pressure outside is greater than that inside). This pressure differential sucks the air outside into the vacuum chamber, picking up dirt along with it. It has a spinning brush in the nose that grabs extra debris as you push it around, sucking it up into the bag or canister. The drive belt keeps the brush spinning.

When the belt breaks, the brush stops spinning. And the dirt stops moving; it just stays put.

Check for an Obstruction
If your vacuum is still running, your problem may not be a broken part at all -- it could simply be a clog. Follow these steps to check for an obstruction before moving on to the belt.

1. First, if the vacuum still runs, place your hand over the suction area to see if it is actually drawing in any air. If not or there is very little suction, there might be an obstruction of some sort.

2. Unplug the vacuum and inspect the hose, tubes and cleaning tools to locate the obstruction. Dust, dirt and other debris -- even objects like pet toys and crayons -- can collect just about anywhere, causing a blockage.

3. Remove parts one at a time to locate and remove the obstruction(s). You can use something long like a broom handle to push clumps of dirt out of the hose area.

4. Reassemble the parts and remember to clean your vacuum periodically to reduce the chance of future clogs.

Replace the Drive Belt
Whether you've had your vacuum one year or 15 years, you're bound to have to replace the drive belt at least once in your vacuum cleaner's lifetime. Here's how.

1. Go to your local hardware or home improvement store and purchase the correct model of vacuum belt based on the make and model of your vacuum. (Don't forget to write down the appliance's make and model before you head to the store.)

2. Unplug the vacuum from the electrical outlet.

3. Flip it over so that you can see the vacuum's agitator brush.

4. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the bottom plate that covers the brush.

5. Remove the brush by lifting the ends out of the base. Remove any debris that is inside or wrapped around the parts.

6. The drive belt is usually wrapped one end over the brush and the other end around the motor drive shaft. Carefully remove the belt from both parts.

7. To install the new belt, slide one end over the brush and the other over the drive shaft and put the parts back in place. The new belt might feel tighter and you may have to pull a little bit on it to get it in place. The old one was looser because it had been stretched out over time.

8. Screw the bottom plate back on and you're done!

Don't forget to perform simple vacuum cleaner maintenance on a regular basis.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

10 No-Cost Ways to Keep Cool

Jaime Derringer — 2010-08-05T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Getty Images

Everyone knows that energy bills go through the roof during the summer. But with a little ingenuity, you can cut corners while still keeping cool.

It's hard to fully escape the intense heat of summer. It creeps its way in every time you open the door -- and some of that cool air creeps on out. Then, you crank up the air conditioner, and your bill goes sky-high. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, the typical U.S. family spends about $1,900 a year on home utility bills -- most of which is wasted! We recently discussed ways that you can reduce the humidity inside your home, but what about just making it feel cooler in general? There are definitely some easy no-cost tips you can follow to stay cool for the rest of the summer and save a little money, too! Check out our top ten:

1. Cook outside on the grill.
Cooking in the summer time can make your entire kitchen feel like one big oven. The heat from the oven and stove top and the steam generated not only fills your kitchen but slowly makes its way through your home -- forcing your air conditioner to work even harder. Instead, spend 15-20 minutes cooking outside on your grill and bring the food back in -- leaving the heat outside where it belongs.

MCT

2. Cook with a slow cooker.
Another energy-smart alternative to traditional cooking? Dig out that rarely-used Crock Pot and test out a few slow cooking recipes you've been wanting to try. A slow cooker uses less than 25 cents' worth of energy in a typical to cook for 8 hours. Combine that with the fact that you're not slaving over a stove or washing pots and pans, and you've got one cool cooking appliance.

3. Air dry your dishes.
Instead of packing all of your dirty dishes into the dishwasher, wash them by hand and then let them air dry. The heat from your dishwasher can make your kitchen feel like a sauna.

4. Change out your window coverings.
When it's hot outside during the day, the sun that shines through your windows will quickly heat up a room. During the day, keep curtains closed on south- and west-facing windows. Install white window shades, drapes, or blinds to reflect heat away from the house.

5. Avoid placing lamps or TVs near your thermostat. The thermostat senses the heat these electronics give off, causing your air conditioner to run longer than necessary.

Air dry your wash. Photo: Getty Images

6. Avoid the dryer. Instead of using your clothes dryer, hang your laundry on an inside or outside clothesline. It's already hot and steamy outside: great for drying clothes and getting rid of wrinkles. If you need to run the dryer, run it on low or for half of the amount of time you normally would to cut down on heat and energy usage -- then let the clothes

7. Stash some clothes in the fridge or freezer. If you've come back inside from the heat and feel especially warm, grab the frozen tank top or cold pair of shorts. You won't be feeling hot for much longer! Also, frozen or cold washcloths on your face are a welcome cool-down.

8. Use fans to circulate air. Just because you have an air conditioner doesn't mean you don't need to use it all the time. If it's not a scorcher outside, use tabletop, floor and ceiling fans to keep the cool air circulating inside.

9. Landscape for the climate. Think about where the sun comes into your house and plant trees or large shrubbery on that side to help create shade. Or, build a trellis with climbing ivy.

Unplug and cool down. Photo: Getty Images

10. Turn off when you're tuned out.
Electronics that are plugged in or powered up give off a lot of unnecessary heat. When you're not using them, turn off and unplug your computer, TV, DVD player and power strips.

Still too hot to handle? For more keep-cool and other energy-saving tips, visit the U.S. Department of Energy website.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Don't Sweat It! Reduce Indoor Humidity

Jaime Derringer — 2010-08-03T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Getty Images

Excessive humidity is not only uncomfortable; it can also cause moisture-related damage to your house.

It's been dreadfully hot this summer all over the world, with temperatures reaching upwards of 100 degrees in some regions. Beyond the heat, humidity levels have also skyrocketed. Humidity is basically the amount of vapor water in the air; warm air holds more humidity than cold air.

Humidity isn't necessarily a bad thing, though. In fact, we need some humidity to be comfortable. But in the warmer months, when we don't often have the windows open for ventilation, humidity and moisture is more prevalent. Excessive indoor humidity is not only uncomfortable and hard to get rid of, but it can actually cause damage in the form of mold and mildew, peeling wallpaper or paint, warped hardwood floors or doors, electronic equipment damage, unwanted condensation, allergies and unpleasant thick, musty air.

Proactively reducing the humidity in your home is a lot more cost-effective than repairing the damage caused by high humidity levels.

Is the Humidity Level Normal in Your Home?
A healthy humidity level in a home is between 35% and 45% (when it is over 20 degrees Fahrenheit outside). To determine if your home's humidity levels are abnormally high, perform a few simple, inexpensive tests.

Excessive moisture in the air can cause mold growth. Photo: Sermoa, Flickr

First, check your walls and windows. If your windows are constantly fogging up or you notice moisture buildup on ceilings or in small rooms, this may be an indication of high humidity. Check bathrooms and closets for mold, which is an indication of extremely high humidity levels.

A wireless hygrometer. Photo: Amazon

You can also purchase a hygrometer at your local home improvement store. There are two types of hygrometers: mechanical and electric; either one is just fine for household use. The hygrometer measures the relative humidity in your home. You should place it in the location that you think has the highest humidity, such as a bathroom. It may take a few hours for the hygrometer to work. Click here for more information on hygrometer usage.

How to Remove Excess Humidity
It's not just the heat outside that contributes to humidity levels in thehome. Remember, humidity is just moisture in the air. Humans, pets and plants produce moisture even as we breathe. That kind of humidity is unavoidable. But here's what you can do to alleviate indoor moisture:

- Run the air conditioner. Although this is probably the most expensive option, air conditioners help humidity on top of reducing heat.

- Move indoor plants outdoors or confine them all to one area. Plants produce a lot of moisture that enters the air and can contribute greatly to humidity levels if you have a lot of plants. While you're at it, be sure not to over-water them.

- Take colder and shorter showers. The steam from a hot shower contributes humidity to the air.

- Install a fan in the basement, kitchen and bathrooms. Although this can be expensive, over time it will save you lots of hassle dealing with the repercussions of high humidity.

- Leave the bathroom vent on. If you have a fan in the kitchen, leave those on for a while even after cooking.

- Reduce the amount of stove-top and oven cooking. Use slow cookers instead of pots. The heat from the steam is high in humidity, so avoiding this will also help reduce your home's humidity levels.

A basic heat pump dehumidifier. Photo: The Home Depot

All About Dehumidifiers
Another option for reducing indoor moisture is to invest in a dehumidifier. Consider a dehumidifier if your home has above 50% relative humidity. Note that the sole function of a dehumidifier is to remove moisture from the air --not to cool the air, like an air conditioner would. There are a few different types of dehumidifiers to choose from.

- Heat pump dehumidifiers: These are the most common dehumidifiers. Inside, they have a fan and two coils (one cold, one warm). The fan is used to draw the indoor heat over the cold coil. Then the water in the air condenses onto the fan and drips into a container. The warm coil heats and releases the air.

- Chemical absorbent dehumidifiers: In these dehumidifiers, air is drawn in and treated with a chemical substance called a dessicant. Essentially, it is a drying agent that removes the moisture and then the air is re-released into the air at a lower humidity level. They are often used in warehouses and other industrial spaces.

- Dehumidifying ventilators: These dehumidifiers have a sensor controller and an exhaust fan. They are often not effective in hot, muggy weather because they draw air in from outside. In the summer, these can have the opposite of the desired effect.

- Homemade dehumidifiers: You can make your very own dehumidifier using rock salt and a bucket. Follow these instructions for making your own dehumidifier.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Fire Extinguishers 101

Jaime Derringer — 2010-07-30T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Living Rooms, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Michael Biann, Getty Images

What would you do if you were cooking and suddenly your stove was on fire? Or an unattended candle ignited your armchair?

Fires inside your home can be a serious hazard. According to the U.S Fire Administration, in 2008 84% of all fire-related deaths and 81% of injuries were the result of residential structure fires. These stats have convinced me that one of the most important home safety accessories I need to buy is a fire extinguisher. You can look at a fire extinguisher as another form of insurance that you hope you never have to use.

But even if you never use it, it's important to know how a fire extinguisher works, which type of extinguisher to buy and how to properly use it in the event of a fire.

The ABCs of Fire Extinguishers
Fires are made up of three elements that keep them burning: oxygen, heat and fuel. A fire extinguisher works by removing one or more element from the fire so that it can no longer burn. Some fire extinguishers contain water; others contain carbon dioxide (CO2) or another agent. The agent is pressurized inside of the metal canister and released in an explosive burst to help put out the fire. For a detailed look inside a fire extinguisher check out this helpful article on HowStuffWorks.

-- Water extinguishers are the most common type of fire extinguisher. They're filled with tap water that is pressurized when the extinguisher is activated. You never want to use a water extinguisher on a grease or electrical fire because it has the opposite of the desired effect. Essentially you will make the fire worse, and this could be life-threatening.

-- CO2 extinguishers contain carbon dioxide, a non-flammable gas that is super-pressurized and great for putting out electrical fires. It's common for bits of dry ice to shoot out when you use these types of extinguishers, so don't be alarmed if that happens!

-- Dry chemical extinguishers are filled with foam or powder and pressurized with nitrogen. Common agents are sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, or monoammonium phosphate. Dry chemical extinguishers are fantastic at putting out most fires, but they will often leave a sticky or corrosive residue behind.

But that begs the question -- which one should you get?

Kidde ABC household fire extinguisher. Photo: Drugstore.com

Extinguishers are divided into classes based on what extinguishing agents they contain and what type of fires they are used to extinguish.

Class A: These are used for paper, wood, cardboard and most plastics that are on fire.

Class B: This class is for flammable liquids like gas, grease or oil.

Class C: These are electrical fires from poor wiring, outlets or circuit breaker boxes and appliances.

Class D: These are for laboratory fires that involve chemical reactions or combustible metals like magnesium or titanium. These extinguishers aren't necessary for residential fires unless you're moonlighting as a chemist in your basement.

Class K: This class is for cooking oil fires and deep fryer fires -- the extinguisher is filled with a special purpose wet chemical agent. You probably won't need one of these at home, either.

If you plan on purchasing just one, the catchall fire extinguisher for households is an ABC fire extinguisher, which contains monoammonium phosphate and is effective in putting out A, B and C class fires (paper, wood, electrical and liquid fires).

How to Use an ABC Fire Extinguisher
Hopefully you will never have to use a fire extinguisher, but here if you did, would you know how to use one? Follow the steps below to learn how to properly operate a fire extinguisher:

Photo: Fire Online

1. Call 911 to report the fire or have someone in your home do so immediately.

2. Remove your fire extinguisher from its mount (if mounted) and pull the safety pin out from the handle.

3. With one hand, aim the hose at the base of the fire, at the distance at which you can feel the heat.

4. Squeeze the handle grip with your other hand.

5. Sweep the hose along the base of the fire, and continue sweeping it until the fire is extinguished or until there is no agent left in the fire extinguisher.

6. Recharge your extinguisher immediately after use even if you barely used it.

Fire Extinguisher Maintenance
Do a monthly quick check of your fire extinguisher to make sure it's still in an easy-to-reach location, not covered up by boxes or coats. Clean off any dust or dirt that has collected on the surface. Give it a good once over to be sure none of the parts appear rusty, loose or dented. Also make sure that the safety pin is still intact.

Every few years you should get your extinguisher pressure tested; this is called a hydrostatic test. Some extinguishers will have a pressure gauge that indicates the pressure levels. Check with your extinguisher's label to see if additional maintenance is required.

Preventing Fires
Besides investing in a fire extinguisher, you should also consider taking the following 10 safety steps to prevent fires and protect your family in the event of a fire evacuation:

1. Come up with a family evacuation plan that includes identifying all of the possible exits. Practice this plan together.

2. Invest in an emergency rope ladder if you have a second story. This way, if you cannot descend the stairs, you can safely escape a fire from the top level.

3. Check your fire alarms often to make sure they're working properly; replace batteries if necessary.

4. Check your electrical wires to make sure they're not entangled and that outlets aren't overloaded.

5. Be sure to use bulbs with the correct wattage in all lamps.

6. Don't leave any food unsupervised while its cooking on the stove. Cooking is the primary cause of household fires.

7. Don't leave dishtowels or other flammable materials near open burners.

8. Always keep an eye on candles and never leave a candle burning unsupervised.

9. If you are a smoker, be very careful as smoking is still the leading cause of fire-related deaths in the US.

10. Educate your children about not playing with matches, candles, the stove or other risky fire hazards.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

The Daily Fix: Remove Hard Water Stains

Jaime Derringer — 2010-07-23T10:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

spike55151, Flickr

How did your once bright-white tub or toilet begin to look old, dingy and almost rusty? Why aren't the dirt or grime stains coming off with regular bathroom cleaner? The problem is probably hard water.

Hard water is water that's high in mineral content, such as calcium and magnesium. Water can absorb these minerals through rocks and soil before making its way to your pipes. The more minerals in your water, the "harder" it is. In contrast, water with low mineral content is often called "soft water."

Hard water isn't harmful to your health, but it can be a headache. The minerals react with soaps, preventing them from lathering. Hard water can also can also make detergents less effective, causing unwanted spots on your dishes even after they've been through the dishwasher, for instance. Hard water can also cause buildup in your pipes and unsightly brown or white stains in your shower, sink, and toilet.

Want to know if you have hard water? Turn on the sink, gather some soap in your hands, and run your hands under the water. If it lathers easily, you don't have hard water. If it barely lathers at all, you probably have water with extra minerals. If you have brown or white residue or scum that builds up in your shower, toilet or sink and won't come off easily with standard cleaners, this is also a tell-tale sign of hard water.

Here's what you can do to remove stubborn hard water stains -- and prevent them in the first place.

To clean the shower and sink:
1. Get an empty spray bottle and fill it half with water and half with pure white vinegar.

2. Spray the vinegar mix onto your shower doors, tub and tile and use a paper towel or rag to clean off the scum. Alternatively, you can put the mixture in a bowl and soak a towel in the bowl, then scrub the surfaces with the towel.

3. If you want to amp up the cleaning power, try creating a paste from white vinegar and baking soda. Spread it out over the surface of the stain, wait about 15 minutes and then scrub with a cloth or sponge. Rinse the area clean, and dry with a towel. Drying the area is very important, as you don't want to cause more problems by leaving the water on the surface for too long.

4. If this doesn't work, cut a few lemons in half or place lemon juice in a spray bottle. The acidity in the lemons should help break up the stains.

For more natural cleaning methods, check out these suggestions from the Natural Handyman.

5. If all else fails, try a chemical cleaner that contains hydrochloric acid. It's important to ventilate the area well and use protective gloves.

To clean the toilet:
1. Add 1-2 cups of vinegar to your toilet bowl and a few sprinkles of baking soda.

2. Using a brush with nylon bristles, swish around the cleaner in the bowl for a few minutes then let it sit for bout 15 minutes.

3. Scrub the surface again with your scrub brush. If this does not get all of the stains, add some lemon juice, which should help dissolve the last of them.

4. Flush away the cleaner and repeat if necessary.

The WaterBoss No. 700 water softener. Photo: The Home Depot

To prevent hard water:
1. To start, purchase detergents that are specially formulated for hard water. Check the label and ingredients for more information.

2. Each time you shower, wipe down the shower doors with a towel to prevent moisture buildup.

3. Get a liquid or powder water softener such as CALGON and use it in your washing machine.

4. Purchase a water softener system. A water softener removes the calcium and magnesium ions in the water and replaces them with sodium ions. They're not cheap, running over $400 for a system. However, it will save you time srcubbing and money spent on multiple cleaning products in the long run.

SEE ALSO:

Clean Your Acrylic Tub the Right Way
10 Tips for Keeping the Kids' Bathroom Clean (Shelterpop)

For more information on water softeners for your home, watch this video:

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

5 Gadgets to Keep Your Wires Neat

Jaime Derringer — 2010-07-20T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Home Offices, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Does it look like this underneath your desk? Photo: Jaime Derringer

Oh, what a tangled web we weave! Luckily, these inventions can keep your mess of cords under wraps.

TV wires, cable wires, USB cords -- these days we've got more electronics than we know what to do with. From chargers to laptops to printers to DVD players, you can't seem to escape being wrapped up in wires. But that doesn't mean you can't keep the chaos organized.

An entire business has been built on creating gadgets and contraptions to tame your unruly cables. Let's take a look at five really great ideas -- most you can buy ready-made, and one you can McGyver using something you probably already have around the house.

These cables look like they just came out of the box. Photo: Bluelounge

FOR ONE CABLE
1. Bluelounge CableClip
My least favorite part about unpacking a new gadget is taking the protective plastic sleeve or twist tie off of the beautifully organized cable, unleashing its true, unruly nature. Bluelounge has developed a CableClip designed to hold your cables in a perfectly-wrapped, contained state.

Another great solution is this water hose-inspired Wall Cleat by designer Karl Zahn, which doesn't appear to be in production yet.

For organizing up to three cables, try a turtle. Photo: Cable Organizer

FOR A FEW CABLES
2. The Cable Turtle
Resembling an oversized yo-yo, the Cable Turtle organizer keeps wires under wraps with its circular design. Cables are wrapped around a central spindle and covered with two discs. You can pull the cables out from either side to elongate. This is a great product for smaller wire messes as it comes in three sizes, the largest of which can hold about three large cables.

Photo: Bluelounge

FOR A LOT OF CABLES
3. Bluelounge CableBox
I saw this product on a recent trip to The Container Store and almost bought it. The CableBox is another clever idea from the geniuses at Bluelounge. The simple, clever box holds your entire power strip (even a double one!) and its unsightly messy cables.

I love the before and after photos on their site submitted by real users:

Real before and afters with the Bluelounge CableBox. Photos: Bluelounge

The Cable Zipper zips up the mess. Photo: Organize.com

4. Cable Zipper
Is it pandemonium behind your entertainment center? The Cable Zipper is a great solution for TV, DVD and cable box wires. You place the wires inside the snake-like casing and -- using the patented zip clip -- you essentially zip it closed like a real zipper. It keeps the cables contained until they reach their final destination.

5. Binder Clips
Yes, those binder clips. You probably don't need to even go to the store for this one. This idea is so smart. The clever hackers over on Lifehacker have come up with a few ways that you can use the small black fasteners to help organize more than just your papers.

Simple magnets might just help keep your wires in check. Photo: gkrieshok/Lifehacker

First, user gkrieshok uses binder clips with the addition of magnets to keep his cables affixed to his desk rather than curled all over the floor. Simple attach the clips to the side of your desk and affix a few magnets to the outside. Then, you can attach and detach your cables easily.

You might not even need to go to the store for this one! Photo: David Rudolf Bakker

Even easier is this hack by David Rudolf Bakker, in which he affixed the binder clips to the side of his desk and placed his component wires into the curvy niche of the clip handles. So simple!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

The Daily Fix: Repair Bubbles in Veneer

Jaime Derringer — 2010-07-13T08:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Home Offices, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

A close-up of a blistered veneer surface. adamrice, Flickr

Got trouble with wood veneer bubbles? Smooth them out in a few simple steps.

Veneer is a thin layer of wood, usually less than 3 mm thick, that is glued to a piece of solid wood, medium-density fiberboard or particle board. It is used primarily on furniture, but can also be used to cover kitchen cabinets, countertops, floors, and even home decor.

Over time, especially with older furniture, the glue can no longer hold the veneer, This resulting in blistering or bubbling of the surface.

Tired of looking at those unsightly bumps? If the veneer is still in decent shape, this is an easy fix. You may be able to flatten a small blister by applying some heat, which can reactivate the glue. Here are the steps:

1. Place a sheet of wax paper and smooth cardboard atop the blistered surface, then lay a clean cloth over the cardboard.

2. Using an iron on medium heat, iron the surface firmly -- but be careful not to iron the veneer directly or it could burn. The paper, cloth and cardboard will act as a buffer.

3. After a few minutes, check the veneer and if the blisters are no longer visible, place a heavy item on the surface, such as a book and leave it on for 24 hours.

If this doesn't work or if you have larger-sized blisters, take the following steps to repair:

1. First, slit the blister open with a razor or utility knife.

2. Left the veneer up gently with a knife and using a toothpick, apply a small amount carpenter's glue into the blister.

3. Press the veneer firmly back into place and wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth. Cover it with wax paper and a heavy book for at least 24 hours.

4. Apply 1-2 coats of wax, varnish or oil to keep your veneer looking fresh.

To keep your veneer from further damage, avoid placing hot or moist items on the surface, as this can soften and deactivate the glue.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments