DIY Life

All-Natural, Homemade Paint

Joe Provey — 2011-09-11T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Essential Skills, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Looking for a gentle alternative to chemical-based interior paint? Stir up this simple, four-ingredient recipe.

Milk paint transformed this old cassette cabinet into a charming powder room organizer for storing towels, tissues, and toiletries. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Cavemen did it. The early Egyptians did it. American Colonists did it. And even today, many people are rediscovering the art of making interior paint for the home.

In an age of store-bought paints with high performance finishes, you may ask yourself, why make paint? For me, it's the natural, handcrafted look -- along with the satisfaction of being self-reliant. For others, it may be because homemade paint is the greenest and least toxic alternative possible to traditional paint. Homemade paints aren't based upon petrochemicals and they're far less toxic than commercial paints -- even the many zero-VOC paints now emerging on the market.

The ingredients for homemade paints vary. This recipe consists of lime, water, pigment, and milk. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

The easiest to make and least expensive homemade paints consist of milk, lime, and pigment. For additional body a filler, such as chalk powder or plaster can be added. My preferred recipe is simplicity itself:

-- Hydrated lime (available at most home and garden supply stores)
-- Water
-- Pigment (powder or liquid)
-- Whole milk (at room temperature)

Mix lime with water using a putty knife or plastic spatula. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

1. Fill a container with one to two cups of hydrated lime. Gradually add water and stir until you have a thick paste.

2. In a separate container, do the same with the pigment powder. For a small batch like this, 2 to 4 tablespoons of pigment is typically sufficient.

3. Gradually add milk to the lime paste until you achieve the consistency of sour cream. Then add the pigment paste and mix thoroughly.

Safety tip: Despite the relative low toxicity of the ingredients, wear vinyl gloves and a dust mask when working with lime and pigment.

Gradually stir milk into the lime paste until you achieve a consistency of loose sour cream. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

ADDING PIGMENTS TO HOMEMADE PAINT
You can buy pigmentsat many hardware and artist supply stores. Avoid using pigments made from toxic compounds, otherwise you'll defeat the purpose of making your own paint. Some common toxins used in pigments include cadmium, lead, mercury, and cobalt. Here's a good online source for non-toxic pigments. You will have to experiment with pigments to achieve the color you want. Be sure to buy plenty of white pigment, as you'll be using a lot of it. It comes in two forms: titanium dioxide and zinc. The former is a bit more opaque.

You can make many of your own colorants using natural ingredients but the process is a lot more time-consuming than making paint alone. Also, the colors produced through home-brewed dyes are more subtle than store-bought pigments. If you do want to make homemade pigment, try these methods:

-- Add water to steel wool for a red rust coloring.
-- Try simmering everything from berries and vegetables to bark and leaves to create the dyes. Blackberries, for example, make a strong dye.
-- Brew coffee or many tea to create neutral tones.
-- Boil peach or crab apple leaves for greens.
-- Use store-bought juice concentrates, such as blueberry and cranberry, to create pleasing tints.

Use a natural bristle brush to apply the milk paint, and allow it to dry for a few hours before recoating. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

ADDITIONAL TIPS ABOUT HOMEMADE PAINT
-- Milk paint is not as scrubbable as its commercial cousins. In areas subject to spills, apply a protective coat of shellac or oil finish. If you choose the latter, stay green with a plant oil-based finish.

-- The shelf life for milk paint is short. Store unused paint in the refrigerator. It can be used until the milk sours. Brushes clean easily with soap and water.

SEE ALSO:
Before & After: Aging Furniture with Milk Paint (Design*Sponge)
Paint Color Trends to Move On From (ShelterPop)
Create a Crackled Paint Finish with Plain School Glue

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The Neat Way to Paint Double-Hung Windows

Joe Provey — 2011-04-07T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Exteriors & Facades, Living Spaces, Outdoors

Painting windows seems like something you could wing. But if you want to avoid a mess, painting in the proper sequence is key. Here's how:

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Nothing slows a painting job down like having to touch up brush smears, splatters, and spots you accidentally skipped. But the secret to avoiding these problems is as easy as following orders.

Painting a double-hung window is a case in point. A double-hung window is the kind with two sashes, one mounted over the other. But before you can understand the proper sequence for painting a double-hung, you should be familiar with the window's different parts.

Getty Images/AOL

Skill Level
Interior painting is a skill that everyone can do. If you don't have a steady hand, there's always masking tape.

Tools and Supplies
You'll need a drop cloth, fine sand paper or sanding sponge, a sash brush, and a good trim paint. I prefer latex semi-gloss enamel. It's not too shiny but cleans easily.

Preparation:
First remove all window hardware. Then lightly sand all surfaces to ensure good paint adhesion. Clean up any dust and wash all surfaces with water and a mild detergent.

Instructions:
After you've completed your preparation:

1. Raise the lower sash as high as it will go. Then lower the upper sash. This will expose the bottom rail of the upper sash that's hidden from sight when the window is closed. (Don't be surprised to find this rail is a different color than the rest of the sash! Many DIY-ers neglect to paint it.)

2. Paint as much of the bottom of the upper sash as you can reach -- at least a few inches -- including the non-exposed bottom rail.

3. Next, return the sashes to their normal positions, leaving them open a little at top and bottom. Finish painting the upper sash, working from muntins and the inner sash edges to the sash face. Then paint the lower sash.

4. With both sashes painted, move on to the jambs. I try to paint them in a clockwise order every time because it helps me avoid skipping areas. Take care not to get paint inside the channels in which the sash slide, or you may end up with window that's difficult or impossible to open.

5. Next, paint the casing and apron (moldings that frame the window). Begin with the outer edges, and then move on to the faces. This will minimize drips.

6. Finish up by painting the stool, the ledge molding that extends from the window's sill.

Now you've got an evenly-painted window with (hopefully!) not much of a mess left. All that's left to do is sit back and enjoy the view.

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The 4 Best Glues (and 2 You Don't Need)

Joe Provey — 2011-03-31T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Products & Materials

Don't know which type of glue is worth keeping on hand for repairs? Here's a quick guide so you won't get stuck.

Hot glue, white glue, Gorilla glue, Krazy glue -- how many glues do you really need? Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

I love fixing things, partly because it's a great way to save money and partly for the satisfaction. So it stands to reason that one of the most important items in my tool kit is glue. You'd think I'd have a drawer full of different kinds, but I don't. Perhaps 90 percent of all my household gluing chores is done with just a few kinds of glue. I like them for their versatility, shelf-life and performance.

Want to bring the best glues home? Here's what you should grab:

Best Glue #1: White Glue
White glue, also known as polyvinyl acetate (PVA), has been around for years, but new formulations made it stronger. Some white glues produce water-resistant bonds, but for truly waterproof results you may need to resort to a specialty glue (see below).

I use white glue for everything from woodworking to craft projects. It's great for bonding porous materials, including paper, wood, polystyrene and fabric. I like that it dries clear and is easy to clean up with water. In addition, white glues are non-flammable, without harmful fumes and relatively non-toxic -- unless ingested. For kids, you can buy "school" formulations that are easy to wash out of clothing. White glue's also inexpensive and, if kept from freezing, will last for many years.

White glue works best when the joint or repair is clamped. Hand clamps are quick and easy alternative to screw-type clamps for many repairs . Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Best Glue #2: Yellow Glue

Yellow glue, also known as carpenter's glue, is very similar to white glue in its makeup and performance. But it's a bit more tacky and sets up a bit faster than white glue, which speeds up assembly. If you work with wood, keep a bottle of it on hand. Some new yellow glues, such as Titebond III Wood Glue, are waterproof, which makes them a convenient alternative to the two-part resorcinol glues that, until now, were the best choice for outdoor projects. Be advised, however, that yellow glue has a shorter shelf life than white glue. It's only good for about one year.

No clamp handy? A heavy weight serves admirably to hold the slipper sole and slipper upper together while this yellow glue repair cures. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Best Glue #3: 5-Minute Epoxy

Yes, epoxy. I know it's toxic, but I love the versatility and performance. I get around the toxicity by wearing vinyl disposable gloves whenever I use epoxy. I also wait until I have several things to fix. Then I open a couple of windows and set up a fan or go outdoors to make the repairs all at once.

Epoxy comes in several types. For household repairs, I prefer the ones that set up quickly, such as Devcon's 5 Minute Epoxy. It gives me enough time to make several small repairs at once, dries in 15 minutes and reaches functional strength in an hour. Mixing and using the product is easy, too.

This old model train engine suffered a break at the slot in which the coupler pivots. The epoxy repair has kept it on track for many years. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

With most epoxies, you begin by squeezing out equal amounts of resin and hardener onto a disposable dish or container. Mix thoroughly for at least one minute. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Apply the mixed epoxy to the break. I used a toothpick here. Then, either hold the pieces together until the epoxy sets (5 to 10 minutes), or lightly clamp with a rubber band as shown. Epoxies are strong enough to bridge gaps ("gap-filling") and only require enough pressure to close and align the pieces being joined. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Best Glue #4: Specialty Glues
Sometimes you'll need a specialized adhesive. When bonding countertop laminate to plywood, for example, contact cement is the glue of choice. When adhering floor tiles, you would want to use the flooring adhesive recommended by the flooring manufacturer. For wood paneling and moldings, a construction adhesive -- such as Liquid Nails --might be the way to go. Buy these glues as you need them in appropriate quantities.

Now -- the glues that didn't make the list. Save money by skipping out on these guys:

Glue to Skip #1: Polyurethane-based Glue
You'll note that polyurethane-based glues, such as Gorilla glue, didn't make my list. Nor did instant glues (cyanoacrylates), such as Krazy Glue. Both types cure upon contact with moisture, which can be problematic. Because once you open the tube, moisture that's in the air can get into the container and begin the curing process. You had better use the stuff up fast or you'll simply have a hardened, useless hunk of hazardous gunk to deal with. Worse yet, they're difficult to remove from your skin and toxic.

Many woodworkers prefer polyurethane-based glues, which makes sense if you're working in a production-style shop -- but not if you only build one or two projects a year. Use white or yellow glue instead. Also keep in mind that polyurethane-based glues expand while curing, so don't use them on an open joint. Finally, polyurethanes and cyanoacrylates are more expensive than many other glues, especially if you consider their short shelf lives.

Glue to Skip #2: Hot-melt Glue
I've also left hot-melt glue off my preferred glue list. Of course, if you enjoy craft projects, you may want a glue gun and supply of glue sticks. They are inexpensive and fast-drying. My gripe is that the bond produced by hot melt plastic glue is not very strong. That's fine if you're gluing up a Valentine's Day card, but glue seashells to a picture frame and in a year at least one will have fallen off. Plus, it's really easy to burn your fingers with these guys!

Here's some more great glue tips from DIY Life:
Spread Woodworking Glue the Easy Way
More Glue for Homeowners

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Garage Door Troubleshooting: Check Your Spring

Joe Provey — 2011-03-03T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Exteriors & Facades, Living Spaces, Outdoors

If your garage door opener isn't in operating properly, you could be setting yourself up for an expensive repair down the road. We consulted a pro about one very common garage door troubleshooting issue.

Examine your spring for a break in the coiled metal. Another sign of a broken spring is if the steel cables that run along the wall near the door jambs are loose. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Is your garage door operating at full capacity, or is it poised to malfunction? Veteran garage door tech Ken Uliano recommends that you regularly check the real muscle of your automatic garage door system: the spring.

"Few homeowners realize that it's the spring (or springs) that do 90 percent of the lifting when an automatic opener lifts a garage door," says Ken Uliano, a professional garage door technician. "The garage door opener's motor is only designed to handle 10 percent of the lifting." Over time, the metal coil that makes up the spring becomes weak and loses some tension, causing the motor to work harder than it should. If the motor becomes overtaxed, the plastic gears inside may break and you'll be facing an expensive repair.

How to Test a Garage Door Spring
To check to see if your spring is no longer doing its fair share, conduct the test that Uliano uses.

Pull the release cord to disengage the J-arm from the carriage. Then conduct the test described above. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

First, disengage the J-arm (the J-shaped lever) from the carriage (see photo) by pulling on the release cord. Then manually raise the door 1 foot and let it go. The door should stay at the release height. Repeat this test at shoulder height and with the door almost fully raised. If the door slams to the floor when you let go, the spring is probably weak.

Caption: It's okay to make a slight adjustment of force by turning the lift force higher by one or two settings. More than that, however, and you risk damaging the opener's motor and the door itself.

If the door slowly drifts to the floor, a slight adjustment of the motor's lift force may solve the problem. Be careful, though: The garage door can be quite heavy, especially if the springs are weak. When raising one manually, lift with you knees to avoid hurting your back. Call a friend to help with the lifting if necessary.

If you suspect that the spring is weak, get a quote from a qualified technician to replace it. Don't wait until it breaks, otherwise you'll probably end up paying even more for the repair. In some cases, the spring can be tightened in order to increase tension. In others, it will need to be replaced.

A new spring is not an expensive part and only takes a pro 20 minutes or so to install. Fees, however, can range from under $200 to more than $400. Uliano says to ask for oil-tempered springs that are rated for at least 30,000 cycles. In addition, he says homeowners should opt for at least a 5-year warranty and to choose a lifetime warranty if they're not planning on moving anytime soon.

Safety tip: Do not attempt to adjust or replace springs your self. This is one repair that can cause serious injury or worse if you bungle it.

Once you're certain your garage door is stable, learn how to insulate it with these handy tips:

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Energy Saving Lightbulbs: How to Compare

Joe Provey — 2011-02-23T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Products & Materials, Essential Skills, Know-How

With incandescent bulbs phasing out, it's easy to get confused by the variety of energy-saving alternatives in stores. Here's how to compare and shop for the new light bulbs.

Most new energy-saving lightbulbs use 25 percent to 30 percent less energy than incandescent bulbs. Photo: AP

Traditionally, we're used thinking about light bulbs in terms of wattage: denominations of 40, 60, 75 and 100 watts are common. But times are changing, thanks in part to new laws requiring manufacturers to phase out incandescent bulbs for more efficient versions, such as compact fluorescent light bulbs, or CFLs. As a result, wattage is fading as a measure of energy in favor of lumens: units that measure the perceived brightness of light.

Manufacturers are going to be making more efficient, lower-watt bulbs, so when comparing different types of bulbs (halogen, CFL, LED, etc.), it's more helpful to look at the number of lumens produced (usually indicated on the bulb packaging) than watts. For example, an 18-watt compact fluorescent and a 12-watt LED bulb can produce lumens equal to a 100-watt incandescent bulb. Use this chart to help you choose equivalent lighting when purchasing an energy-saving bulb.

With incandescent bulbs phasing out, consumers can replace them with alternatives such as compact fluorescent bulbs and light-emitting diodes, or LEDs. Getty Images

Here are the basics you should know before shopping:

Don't Be Ambushed by Less Output
When shopping for bulbs, you'll often see equivalent wattages indicated on the packaging. These indicate incandescent wattages that produce roughly the same amount of light as the bulb you're buying. However, it's important to note that LED and CFL "equivalents" sometimes do not match incandescent outputs. In one case, I found an LED bulb that claimed to be equivalent to a 65-watt incandescent flood but produced only 575 lumens. In another, an LED bulb for a candelabra produced 30 lumens, but the packaging suggested it was a replacement for a 15-watt, 110 lumen incandescent bulb. LED and CFL equivalents will use fewer watts per lumen and will therefore be more efficient -- but they may not deliver the same amount of light as the incandescent to which you're accustomed. It's best to check lumen output before you buy.

Hozae, Flickr

Comparing Efficiency Is Easy
The lumens and wattage will often be given on the packaging or on the bulb itself. To compare bulbs for efficiency, determine the number of lumens the bulb will produce per watt by dividing the lumens by watts. The lower the result, the more efficient the bulb. For example, an 8-Watt, 450-lumen LED bulb produces about 56 lumens per watt (that is 450 divided by 8). A common 40-Watt, 495-lumen incandescent bulb produces only 12 lumens per watt.

Estimating Cost Savings
In my home, we burn recessed incandescent floods in my kitchen ceiling. They burn 65 watts per hour, last for about 2000 hours each, and cost $6 each. I'm considering replacing them with LED bulbs that burn only 15 Watts per hour, last 50,000 hours, and cost $40 each. The cost to operate the incandescents for 50,000 hours is roughly $325. The cost to operate the LED bulb is $75. Add in the price of 23 incandescent bulbs ($138) to the operating cost of the incandescents and the total cost for 50,000 hours is $463. Add the price of the LED bulb ($40) to the operating costs for the LED and the total is $115. The projected savings works out to $348 ($463 - $115).

I burn my lights about 3 hours per day, or about 1100 hours per year, so I would not live long enough to realize the full savings of the LED bulb, which would last me about 45 years! All of this assumes that the cost of electricity and bulbs remain the same. But increases in the cost of electricity or decreases in the cost of LED bulbs (safe bets) would only result in greater savings. It also assumes that the quality of the light produced by long-lasting bulbs will not degrade substantially over the years and force an early replacement.

Remember: It's important to dispose of CFLs the right way, so you can keep yourself and your environment safe. Skip to 1:00 in the video below to learn how:

SEE ALSO:
DIY Product Review: ESL Lightbulbs
Energy Saving Lightbulbs [Shelterpop]
CFL vs. LED Lights [Popular Mechanics]

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Drywall Repair: As Close to Perfect as Possible

Joe Provey — 2011-02-22T11:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Living Spaces

Got holes and torn drywall? Here's an easy way to repair and patch drywall messes.

Here's an easier way to achieve perfect patches in drywall. Photo: Carl Weese, Home & Garden

Patching drywall looks simple, but a truly seamless repair takes considerable skill and care. Any irregularities due to excess compound, fasteners, tears in the drywall covering, or uneven joints will show up after you paint, when it's too late.

Here's a foolproof method for drywall repair that's as close to perfect as possible.

Tools and Supplies:
- Drywall saw
- Pencil
- Carpenter's square
- Drywall saw
- Drywall tape
- Drywall compound
- Mud pan
- 120-grit sandpaper
- Sanding block
- Utility knife with a sharp blade
- Drill
- Drywall screws
- 1 x 4 pieces of scrap wood
- 6-in. taping knife
- 10-in. taping knife
- 12-in. or 16-in. taping knife
- Vacuum

1. Take a new piece of drywall and cut out a patch.
You can pick up a 2' x 2' piece of drywall at your local home center; it's large enough for most repairs but won't leave behind a lot of wasted pieces. Be sure it's the same thickness as the drywall you're patching. Most drywall is 1/2" thick, but some is 3/8" or 5/8". If you're not sure, remove a switch plate and measure.

Place the patch over the damage and trace the shape of the patch. Carl Weese, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Your patch should be at least a couple of inches bigger than the damage in all directions. Mark the cut lines with a pencil, then score along those lines with a utility knife guided by a straightedge, such as a carpenter's square. Rest the drywall on a worktable and snap along the scored line as pictured above. Cut the paper backing with the utility knife.

After reaching inside the hole to check for electrical wires or other obstructions, cut away the damaged area along the lines you have traced using a drywall saw. Carl Weese, Home & Garden Editorial Services

2. To ensure a tight-fitting patch, use the patch itself as a template.
Cover the damaged area with the patch and trace the shape with a pencil. Try to avoid covering any area that's backed by a stud, or else cutting away the damaged area will be a bit more difficult. Use a drywall saw to cut around the damage.

Install nailers using drywall screws and a drill. Carl Weese, Home & Garden Editorial Services

3. Cut and attach wooden nailers to the opening.
Cut two nailers (pieces of wood) from 1 x 4 pine scrap. Using nailers eliminates the needs to find wall studs for attaching the patch, and makes cutting out the damaged area an easier task. The nailers should be a few inches longer than the opening on top and bottom. Mount the nailers to the inside of the wall as shown below. This provides a secure platform to mount the patch over the hole.

Install the patch by fastening it to the nailers with drywall screws. Carl Weese, Home & Garden Editorial Services

4. Mix and apply drywall compound.
Thoroughly mix the drywall compound to begin taping over the patch. Mix for at least five minutes. If you have self-adhering tape, as shown, run it over the patch joints as shown.

Self-adhering nylon mesh tape makes taping a bit easier than using paper tape. Use a sharp blade to prevent ragged tears when cutting to length. Photo: Carl Weese, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Next, apply a coat of compound over the mesh tape. Make it as smooth as possible and just thick enough to cover the ridges of the mesh. Once dry, use a clean taping knife to "knock down" any ridges or burrs in the first coat.

Apply a thin coat of drywall compound over the mesh tape. Carl Weese, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Apply a second, wider, coat using a 10" taping knife (inexpensive plastic taping knives will bring down the cost of this repair, but if you expect to do more taping in the future, invest in good knives). Feather the edges of the joints so they appear flat. Once dry, scrape the surface to remove burrs and high spots.

Allow compound to completely dry between coats. The compound will turn bright white when dry, usually after 24 hours. Carl Weese, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Then, apply a third still wider coat with a 12" or 16" taping knife. If necessary, scrape and sand lightly with 150-grit abrasive paper until perfectly smooth. Lastly, paint the patched area with drywall primer first, paint finish coats and you're done!

Avoid sanding the drywall's paper facing or fibers will tear and be more difficult to paint. Carl Weese, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Note: If you opt to use paper tape instead of self-adhering mesh tape, lay down a 1/4" thick bed of compound using a 6" taping knife. The bed of compound must be wider than the tape and not contain any voids. Then embed the tape by pushing it into the compound with your fingers. Make sure the tape is centered over the joints. Use the taping knife with light pressure to squeeze the compound from under the tape and to scrape away the excess. If you notice air bubbles under the tape, or folds or wrinkles, remove the tape and start over! Then allow the compound to dry before applying the second layer of compound.

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Kitchen Remodel Ideas for Every Budget

Joe Provey — 2011-02-14T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Big Projects, Makeovers & Inspiration

Think a renovation is out of your reach? It's not! We lay out some kitchen remodel ideas for every budget, from $50 to $10,000.

Corbis

It's not necessary to spend an astronomical amount of money on a kitchen remodel. Whether your budget is small or sizable, it's possible to get the kitchen you yearn for at a price you can afford. In fact, you can begin making improvements for as little as $50. Remodeling in stages is an excellent way to update in a manner that will fit your budget. But make sure you tackle projects in a logical order, or you could end up wasting a ton of money. For example, if you plan to rearrange cabinets and appliances, hold off on replacing the flooring. Similarly, don't install a new sink or faucet if replacing the countertop is also on your to-do list.

Use this road map to create the kitchen of your dreams -- no matter the reality of your budget.

BUDGET: $50 OR LESS
Paint is the easiest, least expensive way to transform a tired looking kitchen. Choose a semigloss latex paint, which will allow you to easily sponge off the inevitable food splashes and spatters. Also, opt for a semigloss finish on the trim, such as the baseboard and around windows and doors. For best results, don't skimp out on prep work. Kitchen surfaces accumulate grime, so be sure to wash all walls and the ceiling with a TSP (trisodium phosphate) or a TSP substitute before painting. This will help clean and prepare the surface so that the paint adheres to it properly.

Schulte

BUDGET: $100 OR LESS: ORGANIZERS
Now matter how expensive your cabinets and countertops are, an organized and tidy kitchen will always be an instant upgrade. If your budget is $100, it will be well spent on organizers.

Pot racks, lid holders, shelving, drawer organizers, pullout trays, and utensil crocks are affordable ways to keep clutter at bay and let the charm of your kitchen shine greatly. Open shelving takes advantage of empty walls and gives the kitchen an airy feeling. Stretch your makeover dollars by DIYing your storage organizers.

MCT

BUDGET: $200 OR LESS: LIGHTING
Another quick, inexpensive way to update a kitchen is with the right lighting.

Replace those dim CFL floods with halogen floods. You'll still save energy over traditional incandescent bulbs, and the light will be a substantial improvement. Install a dimmer switch so that the halogens last a longer and save even more energy. As for those still-good CFLs, don't toss them. Save them for use in utilitarian spaces, such as the garage, basement, attic, or closets. Add under-cabinet lighting to existing kitchen cabinets and bring countertop work areas out of the shadows. Use decorative lights over kitchen tables to change the mood when it's time to dine.

Getty Images

BUDGET: $350 OR LESS: REFURBISH CABINETS

Cabinets are often the most expensive items in any kitchen makeover. If yours look worn and have become soft and gummy around the pulls, consider refinishing or repainting the doors and frames instead of replacing the entire units. This will make a big impact in your kitchen at the fraction of the cost of brand-new cabinets.

- Refinish: Use a furniture refinisher, such as the one made by Formby's or Minwax, to strip off most clear finishes. Refinishers often remove some of the stain, too, so you may have to even out the remaining stain color by rubbing on one or more coats of a matching stain. Once the color is to your liking, allow the stain to dry, wipe carefully with a tack cloth, and apply a new clear protective coat. Just be sure to protect yourself from fumes; use a respirator (with the correct cartridge), allow for plenty of ventilation, and work in a dust-free environment as possible when reapplying the clear coat. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, especially with regard to health and safety, as these products are flammable and poisonous.

Emily Farris

- Paint: If you want to repaint cabinets, be sure to prep surfaces by cleaning them thoroughly and sanding them with a fine-grit sandpaper so that the paint sticks. Virtually any surface can be painted, but some are better suited to it than others. Metal, solid wood, and plywood cabinets take paint well. Thermofoil cabinets, which are made of MDF that's wrapped with vinyl laminate, may not. If the laminate is loose or bubbled, painting is not a good option. Even if the paint adheres to the vinyl, the vinyl will probably continue to delaminate. In some cases, it may be possible to peel the laminate off the cabinets, prep, and then paint the underlying MDF.

Check out this video demonstration of how to paint kitchen cabinets:

Regardless of the surface, use a high quality primer and a durable topcoat, such as Benjamin Moore's Impervo (alkyd) or Impervex (latex). Apply paint to the rails and stiles (cabinet framework) with a high-quality brush or foam roller. For an extra smooth finish on the doors, remove them from the cabinet frames and take off all hardware. Number the doors and cabinets to make rehanging the doors easier. Then rent a compressor-powered sprayer to apply the paint. This will minimize those annoying brush strokes in the finish. Be sure to practice on scrap wood first to master the spraying technique. Apply several coats for best results. Sand lightly with a very fine abrasive paper and wipe off dust between coats.

qmnonic, Flickr

- Hardware: Clean cabinet knobs and pulls thoroughly and buff with a clear wax. If your hardware is dated, replacement pulls, knobs, and hinges can be purchased online or at many home centers. Swapping out tired old hardware can give your kitchen a facelift on the cheap.

Getty Images

BUDGET: $500 - $1000: NEW FLOORING
Refresh your kitchen flooring for a brand new look.

Vinyl floor tiles are not only affordable, but have come a long way in terms of style and ease of installation. This type of flooring is comfortable to walk on, easy to clean, and durable. To install, you no longer have to deal with messy adhesives; the floors float atop the underlayment. At less than $2 per square foot, you can put a vinyl floor in just about any kitchen for $500.

Want a more natural flooring material? Choices include wood (solid or engineered), cork, and bamboo. You'll have to shell out two or three times the price of vinyl, but the finish can not be beat. Avoid laminates, which are susceptible to moisture damage. Also, try to steer clear of ceramic tile, which is cold and hard to the touch, plus cracks easily.

Corbis

BUDGET: $1000 - $2500: NEW SINK, FAUCET and COUNTERTOPS
Sinks and countertops bear the brunt of work in the kitchen. As a consequence, they can look very worn after 10 or 15 years. A new sink, faucet and countertops are within this budget -- providing you choose economical materials for the countertops, such as plastic laminate or wood. You can dress up the former with a beveled or rounded hardwood molding along the front edge. Or fake the high-style look of granite, marble, or soapstone with affordable laminate. Butcher block, long neglected as a countertop material, is again in vogue and quite functional. It will need periodic sealing with mineral oil, but can be easily renewed with a sander when needed.

A green kitchen in Windermere, FL. Photo: Ricardo Ramirez Buxeda/Orlando Sentinel/MCT

BUDGET: $5000 - $7,500: A RECYCLED KITCHEN
Now that we're talking about serious money, you can consider buying a complete recycled kitchen, often with the appliances included. Check out Green Demolition at and similar organizations that accept and resell used building materials. Green Demolitions' New York metropolitan area showrooms offer entire kitchens that have been donated by homeowners who are about to remodel. The donors get a tax deduction, and the purchasers get kitchens at prices that are a fraction of the original list price. Everybody wins, including the environment.

Getty Images

BUDGET: $7,500 - $10,000: NEW CABINETS
This budget range will allow you to purchase new kitchen cabinets. Stock cabinets for a 10 x 12 kitchen start at about $5,000. Custom cabinets, that are built to order, cost $8,000 and up. Solid wood, plywood, and stainless steel cabinets are best. Cabinets made of MDF (medium density fiberboard) are good. Avoid cabinets made with particleboard. Look for well-crafted rabbeted or dovetail joints, especially on drawers. They should be carefully glued and fastened. You may also be able to replace your old countertops in this budget range, but most likely not with granite or other synthetic stone materials. To keep this remodeling project under $10,000, you'll have to do much of the work yourself and minimize changes to plumbing, venting and electrical systems.

- Consult with a pro: If your budget is in this range, do yourself a favor and spend some of it on a professional designer. If you have a pretty good idea of what you want, $500 spent on consultations and plans can go a long way. An experienced designer has seen it all and will likely be able to help you avoid costly mistakes. In addition to suggesting an efficient layout for cabinets, counters, and appliances, a designer will help you create free-flowing traffic patterns to dining rooms and to outdoor entertainment areas. They can help with a lighting plan, mudroom or kitchen-office solutions, color selection, material and appliance choices. A good designer will suggest ways to minimize changes to your kitchen's footprint that can add significant cost to your project.

SEE ALSO:
DIY Kitchen Islands
Refacing Kitchen Cabinets
Minute Makeover: Remove Kitchen Cabinet Doors (ShelterPop)
Makeover Inspiration: Color in the Kitchen (ShelterPop)

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ESL Lightbulbs - DIY Product Review

Joe Provey — 2011-01-26T13:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Products & Materials, Essential Skills, Know-How

The electron stimulated luminescence (ESL) lightbulb is a serious contender to replace incandescent bulbs in coming years. Our writer tests the R-30 model to see what the fuss is all about.

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Still using incandescent lightbulbs? Don't get too used to them. According to Earth 911, those old-fashioned, energy-zapping lightbulbs will be phased out by 2014 as a result of the CLEAN Energy Act. Their elimination will save billions in energy costs.

I, for one, am dreading the day when incandescent bulbs are no longer sold in the U.S. In fact, I'm thinking about buying a closet full of them. Why? Well, currently the most feasible alternatives to "regular" lightbulbs are compact flourescent lightbulbs (CFLs) and light-emitting diode lightbulbs (LEDs). The thought of having to light my home with CFLs and LEDs for the rest of my days (and nights) makes me shudder.

In late 2010, good news surfaced for me and for others with the same mindset. Vu1 Coporation (pronounced "view one"), a New York City-based company, is shipping its first electron stimulated luminescence -- or ESL -- lightbulbs to market in early 2011. With this new type of energy-saving bulb, electrons are fired at a phosphor coating at the front of the bulb, causing it to glow brightly. If all goes according to plan, ESL bulbs will replace incandescent bulbs in the years ahead.

But ESL bulbs sound too good to be true: The company claims that the light emitted by an ESL bulb is very similar to that of a traditional incandescent bulb (poor light quality is the biggest drawback of CFLs and LEDs). According to Vu1 director Bill Smith, ESLs are super-efficient at conserving energy and will last for at least 10,000 hours. Unlike CFLs, ESL bulbs are made without mercury, a substance that is toxic enough to warrant all sorts of EPA cautions about fluorescent bulb breakage (evacuate the room first!) and bulb disposal (treat it as hazardous waste!).

The ESL bulb glows with a warm, incandescent-like light. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Vu1 recently sent me its R-30 type lightbulb -- the type used in recessed lighting fixtures -- to evaluate. Although still a test unit, the bulb was close to being a final product; the one I tried is slightly longer than the final version.

The bulb had its pros and its cons. On the bright side, the light was very much like an incandescent (as promised), with the warmth I miss in whiter bulbs. There was none of the annoying vibration (or "flicker") that I sometimes sense with fluorescent lights. And unlike many fluorescents, the bulb was fully dimmable.

And then there were the drawbacks. The bulb was promoted as "instant-on," but it had a slight delay before reaching full illumination. And even in its final incarnation, the bulb is longer and heavier that equivalent R-30 type bulbs. This means that it may protrude from some fixtures. In track-lighting fixtures, its weight may cause the bulb to "lean" and rest against the baffle.

Furthermore, the base of the lightbulb is quite large: about 2 1/4 inches in diameter versus 1 3/4 inches for a typical CFL bulb made for recessed fixtures. The larger ESL bulb base does not fit in all older fixtures (including mine, where bulb height adjustment clips get in the way). They do, however, fit in newer vintage cans -- the kind in which bulb height adjustment is done with a wingnut. If your fixtures are older, check to be sure the Vu1 bulbs will fit before purchasing them.

As for cost, the ESL bulbs is less expensive ($20) than an equivalent LED bulb ($75) but twice as much as an equivalent R-30 CFL bulb ($10).

The ESL bulb is significantly longer and heavier than incandescent and CFL bulbs. In addition, the large diameter base may preclude its use in some fixtures. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Want to test out an ESL for yourself? The R-30 ESL lightbulb can be ordered from the company's website. Smith says they will be available at retail outlets in the near future. Even better, the A-19 ESL bulb -- a direct replacement for the ubiquitous Edison style incandescent bulb -- will be available by mid-year, according to Smith.

So do you think ESL light bulbs will be the light of future? And what are your thoughts on CFL and LED bulbs? Let us know in the comments below!

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Cabinet Doors: Removing Them for Open Shelving

Joe Provey — 2011-01-20T17:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Makeovers & Inspiration

Interested in storing and displaying your kitchen wares? Consider removing your cabinet doors -- a process that's hardly labor-intensive yet high in visual impact.

Removing cabinet doors is a relatively simple job, but some care is required to prevent mishaps! Photos by Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Earlier today, our sister site ShelterPop inspired us with their post about removing cabinet doors to acheive a more open, airy design while revealing display-worthy dishes, glasses and other kitchen wares.

From a functional standpoint, it's easier to access stored items in open cabinets -- and easier to put them away, too. Of course, the next thing we thought was, is the process of removing cabinet doors as easy as it sounds? The answer: Yeah, pretty much.

A lot of care goes a long way, though, so be gentle when removing the doors to avoid damaging them (you may want to rehang them some day). It's also easy to damage the frames of the cabinets as you remove the doors, and the damage will be very obvious once the doors are off.

The good news? Follow the steps below and you shouldn't run into any problems.

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Step 1: Remove bottom hinge screws first while holding the cabinet door so it remains aligned with the cabinet frame. If the door swings out of alignment with only one hinge attached, the frame or hinge may be damaged. Keep a container handy for the hinge screws.

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Step 2: Remove the top hinge while grasping the door firmly. You may want to have a helper support the door to be sure it doesn't drop as you remove the last screw.

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Step 3: Fill screw holes with wood patching compound. You may use a plastic putty knife or a craft stick, as shown here, to push the compound into the holes. (Fingers work fine, too!) Choose a latex patching product that can be stained or a pre-colored one that matches the color of your cabinet.

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Step 4: Smooth the filled holes with 120-grit (or finer) abrasive paper.

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Step 5: Use an artist's brush to apply a matching stain to the filled holes and to other nicks and worn spots.

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Step 6: Wipe away excess stain, allow to dry, and reapply if necessary to match the cabinet stain. The filled holes should not be very noticeable when you're done.

After You Remove Your Doors
Keep the hinges screws in an envelope or plastic bag, and tape it to the cabinet door so they don't get lost. Store the doors in a dry place where they won't get knocked around. Tip: The doors will be easier to store, and less likely to be damaged, if you remove the hinges and door pulls before stacking them.

SEE ALSO:
New Uses for Old Kitchen Cabinets
Refacing Kitchen Cabinets

See a tip on how to organize kitchen cabinets in the following video!

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Find a Wall Stud Without a Stud Finder

Joe Provey — 2011-01-20T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How, Living Spaces

Looking for a stud? Don't stress! Even if you don't own a handy stud finder, you can still locate these elusive fasteners with ease.

Before installing a stair rail bracket, you'll have to find a stud first. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

When it comes to hanging heavy items on a wall, you should aim to drive the screws into studs located in the wall's framing. These studs can hold more weight than plain drywall can, so this technique provides an important, safe and secure hold. There's one caveat: finding these elusive wall studs can be a frustrating challenge. The easiest way to locate them is to use an electronic or magnetic stud finder. These tools will flash or beep whenever you get near a stud. Also, wall anchors will allow you sometimes to bypass this hunting exercise all together.

If you don't own an anchor or stud finder (or the desire to ante up the cash for one), here's how to locate sly wall studs without spending a penny.

Look for clues to where hidden drywall fasteners are.
Search for slightly raised nailheads; studs usually lie directly behind these fasteners. Also, you can press on the drywall. If it gives, move a few inches away and press again. When you press and the wall doesn't give at all, you've probably located a stud. A third approach is to tap on the drywall and listen for changes in tone. A hollow sound means you're cold. A solid sound means you've most likely found a stud, or you're close to one.

Look for clues as to where a stud may be hidden, then drill a trial hole. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Drill a test hole.
To ensure that you have indeed found a wall stud, create a no-cost stud finder. Cut 20 inches of a wire hanger and bend it so that there are two 5-inch legs in a 90-degree configuration.

Use linesman pliers to cut a wire hanger. Then bend a 5-inch leg at each end. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Insert one end into the hole you've drilled. Grasp the other leg of the wire and turn, as if it were a doorknob. If you hit something solid, turn the finder in the other direction to see if you hit it again. If you do, it's probably a stud. Mark the spot on the coat hanger that's sticking out of the wall. Withdraw the hanger and you'll have an approximate measure of the distance between the stud and the hole.

If you hit a stud, withdraw the tool and gauge the distance of the stud from the hole. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

If you turn the stud finder and don't hit a stud; move six inches to either side of your test hole. Drill another hole, and try again. This time you should hit a stud, unless the studs in your home are spaced 24 inches apart instead of the standard 16 inches apart. In this case, repeat the above directions.

Mark the stud locations.
Once you locate one stud, use it to find the location of the other studs along the length of the wall. In most cases you'll find the other studs spaced in increments of 16 inches away from the center of the first stud. Finish up by patching the hole(s) and touching up with paint so that it matches the rest of the wall.

When using this method, you may end up with several holes in the wall that will need to be patched. While these are fairly easy to conceal, you can also opt to drill your trial holes in an inconspicuous spot, such as near the base molding.

Psst...Our sister site ShelterPop is hosting a design challenge -- go vote for your favorite student-designed product!

SEE ALSO:
Best Wall Anchors and How to Install Them
Stud Finder: Must-Have Tools (This Old House)

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Flooring Underlay Replacement - DIY Warrior

Joe Provey — 2011-01-12T14:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects

New flooring products are easy to install, but a smooth, level surface upon which to install them is the secret to professional looking results. Watch as we replace this bathroom floor's existing underlay.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Today's new flooring products make it easier than ever to install a beautiful new floor. Many such products can be installed without noxious adhesives, and the only tools you need are a carpenter's square and utility knife. For great results, however, there's one step that you shouldn't ignore: preparing the underlay. As with many DIY jobs, preparation is the key to success.

With flooring, preparation entails providing a perfectly smooth and level underlay. I recently helped my son with this part of the job in his bathroom. Click through our step-by-step process below.

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Flooring Underlay Replacement

In our case, we were replacing the underlay in the bathroom,so we turned off all water supply valves and removed the toilet and vanity. If the nuts and bolts that secure the toilet to the floor are corroded, as were the ones shown here, use a small hacksaw to cut them off.

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Flooring Underlay Replacement

Remove the old flooring along with any vinyl or wood baseboard moldings. Do not remove bullnose tile baseboard. If you cut the flooring carefully, you can seal the flooring to the tile with caulk.

Flooring Underlay Replacement

If the existing underlay is smooth and level, you're in luck. Just remove or bang home any fasteners that protrude. More likely, however, the underlay will have globs of old adhesive and bits of old flooring stuck to it. In this case, it was deteriorated around the toilet due to leakage in the past, so we decided to remove it. A pry bar is an essential tool for tearing up the old underlay. Once up, remove any remaining fasteners.

Flooring Underlay Replacement

The top layer of the subfloor (usually two layers of thick plywood under the old underlay) was also damaged in this bathroom. We cut out the affected area using a circular saw in plunge-cut mode and using a sharp chisel to finish the cuts near the wall and tub. Afterwards, vacuum the area thoroughly.

Flooring Underlay Replacement

Then we cut a subfloor patch from 3/4-in. CDX plywood and screwed it in place. The height of the patch must be the same as the rest of the subfloor, so measure carefully.

Flooring Underlay Replacement

Measure for floor penetrations carefully and cut holes and notches with a saber saw. Then slide the new underlay (1/4-inch luan plywood is sold for this purpose) in place.

Flooring Underlay Replacement

Fasten the underlay to the subfloor with screws. Then use a patching compound, such as MH Ready Patch from Rust-Oleum to fill voids, depressions over fasteners, and open joints. Make a final check for smoothness by pushing a wide trowel across the floor. If it snags on anything, address the problem.

Flooring Underlay Replacement

You're now ready to install the floor. My son chose a vinyl plank product in the TrafficMaster Allure line, sold at The Home Depot, it was a cinch to install. There were no fasteners, just overlapping joints with preapplied adhesive. To cut the planks, simply measure and score the back of the plank. A carpenter's square is an invaluable tool for this step.

Flooring Underlay Replacement

Then bend, snap and install. The manufacturer recommends rolling the joints to ensure good adhesion.

Flooring Underlay Replacement

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Circular Saws - In the Workshop

Joe Provey — 2011-01-05T15:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

For precision cuts in lumber and other rigid materials, take a circular saw for a spin.

Photo: Oisin Duke, Flickr

A circular saw is used for making straight square or bevel cuts in many common building materials, including lumber, plywood, and masonry. You can use it to cut an opening in your roof to install a skylight, or you can use it to cut shelving for a bookcase. You can even use it, with the appropriate blade, to cut a piece of bluestone to fit a patio or path. The tool has a motor, shaft, circular blade and blade guard, two grips and a flat base upon which the saw rides as you make a cut.

Circular Saw Controls
Besides the trigger-style on-off switch, there are really only two controls:

-- One control is a knob or lever that unlocks to allow the motor and blade assembly to pivot up or down the base. Raise the assembly and the saw's depth of cut is reduced. Lower the assembly and depth of cut is increased.

-- The other control is a knob that, when loosened, allows you to pivot the saw assembly to the side, thereby changing the angle of the blade and allowing you to make bevel cuts at angles that range between 0° and 55° (or slightly more or less).

Using a Circular Saw
To make a cut with a circular saw, make sure your workpiece is well-supported across most of its length. Never try to cut a piece of lumber that's only supported at its ends, as if it were a bridge.

Always mark a cut line on the work piece; you should have a visual reference even for a rough cut (one where the exact measure is not so important).

Set the blade depth so it's slightly deeper than the thickness of the board you intend to cut. This leaves less blade exposed and minimizes the chance for an accident. Then push the saw along the cut line at a steady pace. You'll notice that the rpms slow if you pushing the saw too fast.

When beginning a cut that needs to be accurate, position the blade to the waste side of the cut line. Saw blades, however thin, have a width (kerf). If you cut to the wrong side of the line, or even along the middle of the line, the workpiece will not end up being the dimension you intended.

If the cutoff (section of a board you're removing) is long, have a helper on hand to support it so it doesn't fall and break due to its weight before you complete your cut.

The best way to cut a piece of lumber for a beginner is to support the board you're cutting on a ¾-inch sheet of scrap plywood. (The plywood can rest on a table or on sawhorses.) Clamp the work piece to the plywood so you can use both hands to hold the saw. Set the depth of cut as described above and make the cut. Once you become more familiar with the tool, you will likely move on to holding the work piece with one hand and pushing the saw with the other, but clamping is recommended for safety-especially if you're a little short on arm strength.

Even experienced do-it-yourselfers will find that it's difficult to make long cuts without a guide. There's usually an accessory guide that comes with the saw, but it's of limited use. A better way is to clamp a straightedge to the work piece at the cut line. Then allow the edge of the saw base to ride against it as you make you saw. Just be sure to locate your clamps in places where they won't block the path of the saw.

As you become more experienced, you'll find it's possible to make plunge cuts with a circular saw, too. Plunge cuts, are useful for making cutouts. A good example is when you must cut a hole in sheathing for a window. To make a plunge cut, retract the blade guard, rest the front of the saw base on the work piece surface, turn on the saw, and and lower the blade into the workpiece until the saw base rests on the surface. You may then push the saw forward as when making a normal cut.

Buying a Circular Saw
Circular saws come in all sizes, horsepower, and weights. Buy one that you can easily heft but that's still powerful enough for the jobs you have planned.

Saw sizes are given by blade size. A good all-round saw size is 7-1/4 inch. For power, go with 15-amp motor.

Saw weights range from close to 10 lbs. to 13 lbs. and up. You can get a very powerful saw that weighs in at 10 lbs.

Try adjusting the bevel, depth of cut controls before purchasing the saw. Some saws have convenient built-in stops as 22.5° and 45°.

Look for a shaft lock. It will make replacing blades a lot easier.

Check for good cut line visibility, too. Being able to see where the blade meets the work piece is key to making an accurate cut. Some saws have a built-in LED light that improves visibility.

Before you leave the store with your purchase, buy the correct blade for the job. A 40-tooth combination blade with carbide-tipped teeth is a good all-purpose blade. (Combination means it's designed for making both rip and crosscuts.) An 18- or 24-tooth blade that sometimes comes with a saw performs poorly. For cutting plywood, a 140-tooth blade is a good investment.

Prices for a good saw begin at $100 go up from there. Saws that cost less will generally not stand up to frequent use.

Maintaining a Circular Saw
Circular saws should be cleaned after each use by blowing with compressed air or brushing with an old paintbrush. Change the blade when it begins to become dull. You'll know it's time when your saw cuts generate smoke and burn marks! Follow the manufacturer's recommendations when it comes to changing motor brushes

Circular Saw Safety Precautions
-- Wear safety glasses and hearing protection.

-- Support the work piece to be cut in such a way that to kerf will not close and bind the blade-a situation that can cause the saw to kick back toward you.

-- Adjust the depth of cut so the blade will cuts no deeper than the thickness of the work piece plus ¼ inch.

-- Tighten all knobs or levers so the base is locked firmly to the motor assembly.

-- Move the power cord so it's well away from the path of the blade.

-- Do not allow the blade to touch the work piece until you have turned on the saw.

-- Position yourself so that saw dust and wood chips will not be thrown in your face.

-- Allow the saw blade to come to a complete stop before putting the saw down.

-- Unplug the saw before adjusting for bevel or depth of cut, and before changing the blade.

-- Do not begin a cut if you will have to overextend your reach before you can complete it.

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Replace a Bathroom Vent Fan

Joe Provey — 2010-12-30T10:50:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath

Does the vent fan in your bathroom makes a mysterious clicking sound? Has it stopped working entirely? No need to hire an expensive contractor -- you can replace it yourself.

Carl Weese, Home & Garden Editorial Services

A broken bathroom vent fan can cause all sorts of problems in a house -- beyond fogged up mirrors and windows. Trapped moisture in the bathroom can cause mold and mildew and ruin the walls. So it's important to keep your fan in good working order.

Installing a new vent fan is not difficult but, as with any project involving electricity, you have to be extra careful. Shut off power to the bathroom circuit at your electrical panel before you get started. And remember, it's always good if you can repair your old fan. Go online and order replacement parts from the manufacturer. You can also download the manual from most manufacturer's sites should you need it. If you want to replace an older vent fan with one that includes heat and light, or if you want separate fan and light controls, call an electrician.

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No More Caulking: Use Grout Around Your Bathtub

Joe Provey — 2010-12-22T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects

Photo: Getty Images

Prevent aged, cracking caulk around your tub by using grout the next time you seal around the bathtub.

Photos by Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

The joint between a bathtub and the wall needs to be carefully sealed to prevent water from leaking behind the wall and perhaps through the floor into the room below. A common approach is to fill the joint with caulk, sometimes labeled "kitchen and bath" caulk. Unfortunately, caulk is difficult apply neatly and usually ends up looking messy. It also tends to peel slightly at the edges creating perfect pockets for mildew and bacteria. That's the black stuff you see. Scrubbing with bleach or high-powered detergents can render the caulk clean, but it's a nasty job-and there is a better way to avoid so many deep cleanings.

Seal the tub to wall joint with grout. It's cheap, long-lasting, looks great, and is better at resisting discoloration due to mildew.
Use tile grout. I used the Polyblend brand. It comes as in powder form, although you can buy tile grout premixed as well. There are two types, sanded and non-sanded. For this fix I'd recommend non-sanded, although either will work.

Follow the steps below for a perfect seal.

1. Clean out the joint with a razor scraper. You will often be able to pull out long segments of caulk once removal gets started. For an old grouted joint, an old chisel may be helpful as well. Don't bother with chemical applications that soften caulk for easier removal. This is just another gimmick to part you from your hard-earned dollars. In most cases, caulk is easy to remove.

2. Wipe away debris. You can use an old toothbrush to help sweep away loose particles. Then sponge clean with vinegar to kill off any remaining traces of mildew. Finally rinse and allow to dry.

3. Mix grout powder with water in a disposable bowl until you have a stiff paste. Go slowly at first: It's easy to put in too much water, in which case you'll need to add more grout. Add only small amounts of water until the desired consistency is reached. Stir the grout for five minutes. Then set it aside and fill the tub with water. The weight of the water will open the joint between the tub and the wall a bit more than it already is.

4. Allow the grout to sit in bowl for 10 minutes. Then stir again and begin to fill the joint. My preferred tool for this operation is a wooden craft stick (a.k.a. popsicle stick or tongue depressor). Use it to press the grout into the joint, and then to scrape off excess grout. Use a gloved finger to give the joint its final shape. The key is that you have the vinyl glove on; and run your finger gently against the grout for a smooth finish. While you're at it, remove old loose grout from between tiles and fill with new grout.

5. Allow the grout to set for about 20 minutes. Then lightly wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge. Use a sponge with a fine texture to avoid pulling grout from between the joints. If the grout dries before you clean it off, you're in trouble. It's tough to remove once it sets. So be sure to wipe the tile clean at the appropriate time. You may now drain the tub.

6. Wait two hours for the joint to harden and remove any remaining grout residue (haze) from surrounding tiles and tub by buffing with cheesecloth. Wait overnight for the grout to become completely dry before using the tub or shower.

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DIY: The Gift That Keeps on Giving

Joe Provey — 2010-12-10T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Holidays, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Ever wonder why the box is often more interesting to a kid than the toy inside? Children -- with their infinite imaginations -- are born DIYers. Encourage their do-it-yourself instincts today, and there's nothing your kids won't be able to do tomorrow.

It's never too early to teach DIY skills to a child. Here, my grandson Joseph paints a house he and I built together for the Molly the cat (who is very happy to have a warm place to sleep this winter).. Photo: Joe Provey

When I was a very young child, I had few toys (by today's standards, anyway). There were my beloved electric trains, of course. But for me, the idea of making things from common household items was fascinating. Clothespins, buttons, thimbles, marbles, string, a magnifying glass, candle wax, aluminum foil, scraps of fabric -- these were the building blocks I used to make the toys that existed in my mind.

I spent hours trying to invent "machines" from pencils, thread spools, and rubber bands. I also became an expert at building houses from playing cards and creating boats and airplanes from paper, tape, and paper clips. Outdoors, I enjoyed damming up curbside streams with sand, skimming rocks on ponds, and building lean-tos in the woods. Nature offered a whole new array of materials with which to work: seeds, nuts, reeds, leaves, vines, earth, sticks, and stones.

Upon becoming a dad, I bought into the commercial toy trap. My kids didn't want for anything. But I, like many other parents, quickly learned that expensive toys were often brushed aside for the same "found" playthings that appealed to me as a child. I made an effort to encourage my kids' curiosity for everyday things by introducing them to the possibilities of paint, pipe cleaners, popsicle sticks, paste, paper mache, plaster, and modeling clay at early ages.

Not until my kids were six or seven years old did tools come into the picture. I had a workshop in the garage that included a kid-size workbench. My own (adult) bench had a stool in front that helped bring the kids to working height when they needed extra space. There was always a bin filled with pieces of scrap wood, dowels, and pipe cutoffs, which I supplemented with more easily tooled materials like balsa wood and Styrofoam. Coffee cans were filled with all sorts of hardware, including nuts, bolts, washers, and springs.

My own son, Renald, banging nails at 4 years of age. Photo: Joe Provey

Actual tools are different than sticks and stones, of course. Precautions and rules became necessary when introducing kids to the wonders of the workshop. I made sure that hazardous items, such as mineral spirits and sharp tools, were out of reach. I had to be present when they were working. Most of the projects involved hand tools only, but there was also a small scroll saw for cutting wood and plastic. A hobbyist's handheld grinder (Dremel tool) allowed my kids to do some drilling and grinding in soft materials. They soon put their newly acquired skills to work building train layouts, remote-control cars, kites, model planes, birdhouses, and backyard teepees.

Later, as young adults, I was proud to see my sons tackling projects like building loft beds and kayaks and making beer and soap. My daughter volunteered to help maintain and preserve an ancient building (in Bordeaux no less) and to work with impoverished women at an agricultural cooperative in valley outside of Marrakech. Although their careers now bring them into virtual worlds where internet architects build structures for information, projects are now programs, and software has replaced hardware, I still like to think that their comfort with physical, tangible materials is a core strength for them.

Now I have a grandson, Joseph. I try to steer him away from computer games and toward old-school materials like clay, paint, and wood. This past summer, he helped me turn an old wooden shipping crate into a snug little house for the cat that hangs around our house. I'm proud to say that at four years old, he knows how to tap excess paint off his brush so it doesn't drip, understands what rigid insulation does, and knows how shingles shed water. This Christmas, maybe we'll set up my old electric trains and have our first lesson about wiring.

If there's a child in your life, I urge you to give him or her the gift of DIY. It's truly one that keeps on giving.

SEE ALSO:
The Importance of Playhouses for Kids (Parentdish)
How to Remove Silly Putty and Gum

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Wood Repair: How to Fix Damage From Rot

Joe Provey — 2010-12-08T14:00:00 00:00

Filed under: fix-it, weekend projects, Tools, Patios, Porches & Decks, Know-How, Outdoors

When it comes to inexpensive wood repair, durable epoxy can fix rotted wood and save you hundreds of dollars in replacement costs.

Photo: The leg joint of this carved wooden bench failed because of rot. Two applications of epoxy allowed the author to rebuild the joint. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Any piece of wood that traps moisture is highly susceptible to rot. Fences, decks, column bases, porch stairs, wooden planters, outdoor furniture, window casings and sills are all common locations for wood rot. Replacing decayed wood on a large scale is an expensive and time-consuming process, especially if you have to disassemble the structure. But if the rot is not too extensive, it can often be patched up with a mixture of wood flour (or sawdust) and two-part marine epoxy. Marine epoxy is a resin and hardener combo.

GETTING STARTED
To begin the restoration process, use a chisel or screwdriver to remove crumbling rot and debris from the area to be repaired. It is not necessary to remove semi-solid (or "punky") wood, as this can be treated.

After the rot has been removed, mix a suitable amount of epoxy per the manufacturer's directions. For safety, wear gloves when mixing and working with epoxy. Work outdoors if possible, or in a well-ventilated area.

Mix the resin and hardener thoroughly for several minutes. Do not mix more epoxy than you can use during the setting time indicated by the manufacturer. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

APPLYING THE EPOXY
Many epoxies have two parts, resin and hardener, that must be mixed in a container just before application. When mixing epoxy, it is important to use the proper ratio of resin to hardener. Make sure not to mix more than what can be used in a few minutes. Epoxy hardens quickly, and once it does you won't be able to use it anymore. Tip: If you get epoxy on your skin, wash it immediately with vinegar, then use soap and water.

Once mixed, the epoxy will remain liquid for about 15 minutes. Quickly brush it onto the damaged area, soaking any places that are soft from the rot. Then stir wood flour, sawdust or a filler recommended by the epoxy manufacturer into the remaining epoxy until it reaches the consistency of peanut butter.

The resin and hardener combines to form an epoxy mixture with the consistency of peanut butter. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Fill gaps with the epoxy paste using a putty knife, or any tool that will allow you to shape the paste as required. If the gap is deeper than ¾ inch, fill it in with two or more applications of paste. Slightly overfill the final application and allow it to cure (but it will take a few days to fully harden).

An artist's palette knife is handy for shaping the filler. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

SMOOTH AND FINISH SURFACE
After an hour or two, you can further shape the patch and remove excess filler with conventional tools, such as a utility knife, wood file or sandpaper.

After an hour or two, the epoxy will have hardened enough so it can be chiseled, sanded, drilled, routed or or planed. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Once the epoxy is cured (see left), it can be primed and painted to match adjacent surfaces.

While this is an inexpensive solution to wood rot, don't forget to identify and remedy the source of moisture that caused the rot in the first place. It's usually due to improper drainage, inadequate ventilation, poor construction techniques, or a combination of all three.

SEE ALSO:
Conceal a Nick in Wood Furniture
Wood Rot in Decks and Porches (Bob Vila)
The Wide World of Epoxy (This Old House)
How To: Put a Stop to Squeaky Floors (ShelterPop)

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Best Wall Anchors and How to Install Them

Joe Provey — 2010-12-01T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Can't find a wall stud? Wall anchors allow you to hang just about anything to hollow drywall or plaster. Here are the top anchors to attach items safely and securely to walls.

Today's wall anchors beat old-style plastic expansion anchors and conventional toggle bolts hands down. All photos: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Hanging objects on the wall requires proper fasteners, installation and know how. What makes it a tricky job at times is the fact that drywall is constructed of lightweight materials and is not designed to support heavy hanging objects. Standard fasteners can easily pull right off the wall and cause damage to it.

Usually, the best way to attach something is by driving a screw into the wall's underlying wooden framing, made up of studs. Typically studs are spaced 16 inches apart on a wall, but unfortunately they never seem to be where you need to hang something. This is where anchors come in handy.

Anchors may be used in walls and ceilings to hang everything from towel racks and toilet paper dispensers to light fixtures, mirrors and shelving units. Some are designed for hollow applications where there most likely isn't a convenient stud or beam available; places such as walls and ceilings covered with drywall and hollow-core doors. Here are the best anchors for hanging objects on hollow drywall, plaster walls and ceilings.

WINGED PLASTIC ANCHORS
A big step up from ribbed plastic anchors, winged plastic anchors may be used in drywall or plaster and cost less than metal drywall anchors. Designed to spread their "wings," they provide more strength than other plastic expansion anchors and are less likely to pull out from the wall.

Photo: Winged plastic anchors called Pop-Toggles, along with a yellow pin tool for installing the anchor and a pair of screws. Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

Winged plastic anchors are best used for: Towel bars, toilet paper holders, heavy picture frames, light fixtures, bulletin boards, smoke alarms, lightweight shelving, and wall-mounted mirrors on plaster walls.

How to Install a Wall Anchor:

Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

1. Press folded wings together and insert into a pre-drilled hole.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

2. Then use the supplied pin tool to pop the wings open.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

3. The wings should spread open and grip the inside of the wall.

THREADED DRYWALL ANCHORS
The most popular drywall anchor, threaded wall anchors are fast and easy to install. They do not require pre-drilling and are strong enough to hold up to 50 pounds. Available in in metal and plastic, the plastic threaded anchors are best used for drywall and the metal threaded anchors can be used for drywall or plaster.

Threaded anchors are a snap to use. The larger the anchor, the higher the weight rating. Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

Threaded drywall anchors are best used for: Closet organizer kits and shelving, heavy picture frames, bulletin boards, smoke alarms, lightweight shelving, light fixtures, wall-mounted mirrors on drywall.

How to Install:

1. Simply drive the threaded anchor into the drywall with a screwdriver or drill-driver. Once fully seated, you're ready to attach the item with the screw of your choosing.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

2. When driven flush to the wall, any appropriately sized screw may be used to fasten the anchor hole.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

STRAP TOGGLE ANCHORS
Strap toggle bolts can support heavy fixtures, such as large mirrors, in drywall, plaster and concrete. HiIlman makes a very strong anchor (pictured) that hangs objects up to 80 pounds on drywall and up to 330 pounds in concrete. These types of anchors have some drawbacks, one being that they require a large pilot hole. Also, if you ever need to remove the bolt, the anchor will fall into the wall and you will need to reinstall a new anchor to rehang an object.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

Toggle anchors are best used for: Use strap toggles to attach heavy items such as mirrors and shelves to drywall, plaster, concrete block, and brick walls. As well as hanging items from ceilings.

How to Install:

1. Drill hole and push toggle and strap until toggle opens against the interior wall surface.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

2. Then push plastic collar to exterior surface and break off plastic straps. Align fixture and secure with supplied bolt.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

3. Once inside the wall, the anchor will adhere to wall as bolt is tightened.

SEE ALSO:
DIY Warrior: Installing a Light Fixture
Choose the Right Hanging Hardware (This Old House)
Hang Artwork Easily and Precisely (Apartment Therapy)

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Roof Cement: Your Best Defense Against a Leaky Roof

Joe Provey — 2010-11-26T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

With winter on the way, many homeowners are thinking flashlights, snow shovels, and bags of ice melt. But when storms hit, you may have no better friend than a can of roof cement.

Use disposable tools and wear vinyl gloves when working with roof cement. It has a way of getting everywhere. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Your roof is your house's first line of defense against the elements. It quietly does its job day after day. Many of us don't give it a second thought -- until there's a problem.

So stay one step ahead of trouble. In these last days and weeks of relatively comfortable weather, it's the perfect time to inspect your roof for leak-causing damage (especially after a storm). Look for shingles that are askew or missing. Check for exposed nails. If you can safely climb up on the roof for a closer inspection, check every joint for splits, cracks and openings. Joints include the "seams", called valleys, where one roof plane meets another. They also include around penetrations, such as dormers, chimneys, skylights, vent, and waste stacks.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

A can of roof cement will fix most roofing problems. For example, if you spot a popped nail (a common entry point for water) working its way through the surface of a shingle, hammer it back in place.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Then spread a dab of roof cement over the exposed nail head to prevent water leakage. You may "camouflage" the patch by scraping the granules from a spare shingle and spreading them over the roof cement.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

You may also use cement to mend a torn shingle, "glue" down a loose shingle, or attach a new one. In all three cases, apply cement generously underneath the shingle, then press it back into place.

Flashing is another common leak point. Made of rectangular pieces or long strips of thin metal, flashing is a critical component of any roof, but it may crack with age. Look for flashing along valleys and around the perimeter of penetrations. If you spot a crack, use roof cement to seal it. It will keep water out until it's time to re-roof, at which point you should replace the flashing. Apply a 1/4-inch-thick and 3- or 4-inch-wide layer of cement over narrow cracks and tears. If the break is 1/4-inch wide or larger or several inches long, apply a thin bed of cement and embed an open mesh glass fabric in it. Then cover with additional cement.

Choose a roof cement, like this type by Karnak, that can be used in both wet and dry conditions. Photo: The Home Depot

There are several types of roof cement sold at home centers. To be on the safe side, opt for one that indicates it can be used in wet, cold conditions. Roof cement is available in 10 oz. cartridges, gallon cans, and 3.5 gallon cans. While the cartridges are a bit easier to work with, my recommendation is to pick up a gallon. You'll be surprised at how much you'll need to make a patch. Roof cement has a way of making a big mess, so also pick up plenty of disposable vinyl gloves and several disposable plastic trowels in varying sizes.

In order to have your roof cement ready to go, store it at room temperature. Otherwise, you will have to keep it at roof temperature for 24 hours until you can use it. Clean surfaces of dirt, gravel, and debris; and scrape away old roof cement to obtain a smooth patch. When applying to metal, remove rust and oxidation with a wire brush.

SEE ALSO:
21 Tips for Readying Your Home for Winter (WalletPop)
All About Roof Shingles (ShelterPop)
Perform a Basic Roof Inspection (Lifehacker)

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Safecoat Naturals Non-Toxic Paints - DIY Product Pick

Joe Provey — 2010-11-05T13:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Products & Materials, Essential Skills, Know-How

Looking for eco-friendly paint? AFM Safecoat Naturals not only has zero VOCs, but the paint is made from natural ingredients like vegetable oils and plant and mineral extracts. Its milkshake smell and rich pigments are just icing on the cake.

Getty Images

I recently painted a porch floor with an old oil-based paint that had been in my basement for many years. Despite proper ventilation, I was almost knocked out by the vapors.

What was once the norm has dramatically changed over the years for the better. Today's paints are mostly water-based and release much less in the way of harmful volatile organic compounds (VOCs): gases that contain many chemicals, some of which are toxic. The effects of long-term exposure to VOCs -- those harsh fumes you associate with house paint -- range from headaches and allergies to more serious conditions, including cancer, liver and kidney damage. Naturally, there has been great consumer demand for more environmentally-friendly paints in recent years. The market has responded with low-VOC and no-VOC paint products, readily available -- even from big name manufacturers like Benjamin Moore and Glidden -- at reasonable prices.

While most environmentally friendly, low- and no-VOC paints offer many advantages (including good durability and ease of cleanup), they don't match oil-based products in regard to quality of finish. Water-based paints, for example, often go on unevenly because they tend to dry faster than their oil-based counterparts. This typically results in a finish that has visible brush strokes, no matter how careful you are. Similarly, rolled-on latex paints leave all sorts of textures, often referred to as "orange peel."

Using Safecoat Naturals
So it was with some excitement that I recently tried a new natural paint from American Formulating & Manufacturing (AMF) called Safecoat Naturals. It's made from vegetable oils and plant and mineral extracts, and is free of biocides, harmful preservatives, lead and cobalt, as well as citrus drying compounds which can be an irritant for some people.

Photo: American Formulating & Manufacturing recently introduced a new line of organic, plant-based paints called Safecoat Naturals, so we gave it a try. This room was painted with the zero-VOC paint. Photo: Courtesy of American Formulating & Manufacturing

The Safecoat Naturals primer brushes on easily. There is very little brush drag, plus coverage and adherence are excellent. My projects required two coats, which is what I'm used to with conventional primers. However, drying time was slower with Safecoats Naturals than with higher-VOC primers. While the recommendation is to wait at least eight hours before re-coating, surfaces were dry to the touch in 30 minutes. Like many primers, Safecoat can be used inside or out.

I hate smell of paint, so I was pleasantly surprised to realize that Safecoat Naturals actually has a milky, fruity smell. Plus the paint goes on just as easily and smoothly as the primer. There was none of the unwanted texture I get when using a latex-based paints. Safecoat Naturals can be brushed, rolled or sprayed on. Avoid painting when temperatures are below 55 degrees and humidity is high, though, or drying times will increase.

Cleaning up the brushes I used with both the primer and the topcoat paints was easy and guilt-free, as I wasn't dumping toxins into the environment. Bonus: simple dish soap and water is all you need to clean up.

Although the vegetable-based oils in the paint are similar to those you use to cook, that doesn't make the paint safe to ingest. Like any other paint, you should keep it away from children and pets. Safecoat Naturals does not contain conventional preservatives, so cans must be kept tightly sealed. Nevertheless, the product's shelf life is three years.

Cost Breakdown
The costs for Safecoat Naturals products are competitive with conventional quality paints (pricing is MSRP):

- Naturals Primer ($45.90 per gallon)
- Flat ($49.90 per gallon)
- Pearl ($50.90 per gallon)

Want to make your own homemade, natural paints? Stay tuned for our upcoming post on DIY paint recipes!

SEE ALSO:
Quality, Eco-Friendly Painting
10 Uses for Leftover Paint
Eco-Paint: Fab or Fad? (Shelterpop)

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Organize Your Coat Closet

Joe Provey — 2010-10-26T06:25:00 00:00

Filed under: organization and storage, weekend projects, Small Spaces, Storage & Organization, Essential Skills, Know-How

Organizing your overstuffed closet doesn't have to be a feared task. Transform a coat closet from cluttered chaos to an organized dream with smart storage ideas.

Take back your front door closet with clever organization tips! Photo: California Closets

In cold or messy weather, the coat closet may be the first thing visitors see. Yet many entryway closets are not a welcoming sight. In addition to coats, these closets are often crammed with everything from luggage and laundry to vacuum cleaners and sports gear -- leaving you afraid to even open the door. Fear not: your overstuffed closet is not a lost cause. Clear the clutter with these clever organization ideas:

1. Use every inch of space. The coat closet is often the most under-utilized and overstuffed space in the house. "To make a typical coat closet more efficient you should remove the existing rod and shelf," advises California Closets designer Lisa Lennard. This will make use of space that was dead before. "Then measure your longest coat and add two or three inches," she instructs. "Reinstall the hanger rod at this lower height. In most cases, there will be room for two or three shelves above it where you can put baskets or boxes for small items."

2. Double up. If your closet is wide enough, Lisa suggests installing a double closet rod. Hanging a second rod below the existing one will enable you to store another level of clothes, such as shorter jackets. Make sure to allow at least 36 inches between the top and bottom rod. An easy drill-free approach to achieving a double-hanging system is to use hanging rods that hook over existing rails. These nifty rods provide instant space for short-hanging clothes (Double hang closet rod, $10; The Container Store).

3. Make room for drawers. Remove the top shelf and raise the existing closet rod to uncover valuable vertical storage. In the space below the rod, install a chest of drawers for storing small items. Hang jackets or sweaters you're using regularly on the rod above the chest. Longer coats, such as trench coats, can hang to the side of the small chest. Reserve the floor space below for weather boots.

No room for a chest of drawers? Buy a set of hanging canvas shelves. They are perfect for stowing everything from gloves and scarves in winter to sandals and caps in summer. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

4. Purge. Determine clothing and accessories you wear and items that you need to give away. You can save more than a foot of space by donating three old winter coats. That's enough space to install modular storage cubes, which can store gloves, scarves, and mittens.

5. Think outside the closet. Place a coat tree or a wall-mounted rack in your entryway for the outerwear you use every day. These organizers are great for grab-and-go items, such as jackets, scarves, umbrellas and hats.

6. Invest in space savers. Install an inexpensive over-the-door shoe organizer to store small winter necessities like gloves, earmuffs and knit caps. You can also keep keys, wallets, lint brushes and flashlights in this handy organizer.

7. Rotate seasonal clothes. In the spring, move winter coats to other storage places, such as less crowded closets, underbed storage units and unused suitcases. This will make way for lighter jackets, sweaters, warm-weather sports equipment and beach gear. The same goes for footwear: the boots of winter should give way to the sandals of summer. You can also try your local dry cleaner for more storage options. Many store out-of-season garments as a part of their service to customers.

SEE ALSO:
Get organized with fiberboard shelving systems
Create an Entryway Closet Out of Thin Air (Apartment Therapy)

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