DIY Life

Jennifer Aniston's Platform Bed - Create the Look

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2011-02-02T16:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Bedrooms, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

By Kathy Price-Robinson of Kathy's Remodeling Blog

This platform bed closely resembles the one in Jennifer Aniston's bedroom, as featured in Architectural Digest. Photo: Apartment Therapy Chicago

Most of us are wealthy like Jennifer Aniston. And we may not have her killer figure or her movie star status. But we can sleep in a gorgeous platform bed like Aniston's -- was featured in Architectural Digest -- and for a lot less than she likely paid for hers.

So how can we afford such a luxurious bed? We can make it ourselves.

What makes this bed frame extra special is its generous size. The platform extends past the mattress on all sides, providing ample surface to rest things like books, drinks, and your cell phone. The end tables that flank the bed are actually extensions of the bed frame itself. Extra space at the foot of the bed allows for other luxuries, like a cushion for seating.

Of course, you need a fairly large room to accommodates a bed this size. But if you build such a bed yourself, you can scale down its proportions to suit your room size.

For inspiration on how to build this bed, we turned to carpentry guru Gary Katz, publisher of the popular site This is Carpentry. (He also created these outstanding digital illustrations!)

"This bed design is a great one," says Katz. "The bed seems to float above the floor, and the top of the bed floats above the bed frame. Both details are easy to accomplish," he adds. "And the materials are simple to collect, too." The dimensions shown here focus on a king-size mattress. Here's how Katz breaks it down for us:

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Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

This platform bed, featured in the March 2010 issue of Architectural Digest, is built with attached "ears" -- side tables that are big enough to hold oversize lamps.

Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

The bed's platform has a groove at its base that makes it appear to float above the floor.

Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

Following the instructions below, you'll make the frame of the platform first, using 1-by-8-inch pine boards standing vertically. Then you'll make the top of the platform with 1-by-8-inch pine boards lying flat.

Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

As you see above, a strip of thin molding, called an edge banding, is applied around the edge of the platform. This covers up the ends of the boards that have been cut, giving it a cleaner finish. On the facing of the bed frame, 1-by-6-inch pine boards are installed. These details are what create the shadow line (also called a reglet); this recessed line gives the bed a classy edge. It's all in the details.

Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

Before staining a soft and porous wood like pine, you should use a conditioner that will help the stain go on smoother and without blotches. Minwax makes a good Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, which you apply with a cloth or a brush. You may want to stain with a honey oak or dark oak stain. After that, seal with a water-based polyurethane coating, which you apply with a bristle or foam brush.

Build a floor frame exactly the same dimensions as the interior frame; in this case, 106.5 inches by 94.5 inches, using 2-by-4s installed flat on the floor.

Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

It should be exactly the same dimensions as the interior frame; in this case, 106.5 inches by 94.5 inches, using 2-by-4s installed flat on the floor.
Then build the interior frame on top using a series of 1-by-8-inch pine boards standing on edge (vertically), spaced 16 inches apart, measured from the center of each board. Use drywall screws to fasten all the boards together.
Then build the interior frame on top using a series of 1-by-8-inch pine boards standing on edge (vertically), spaced 16 inches apart, measured from the center of each board. Use drywall screws to fasten all the boards together.

Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

Then install 1-by-6-inch trim boards on the face of the entire frame with small finish nails. Extend those 1-by-6 boards around the entire perimeter of the frame

Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

...including the end table extensions, as shown above. Then install the finished platform boards on top of the frame, also shown above. Use a saw and cutting guide to be sure the platform boards are perfectly flush.

Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

As you can see in the illustration above, the chamfered edge on this molding is cut at a 45-degree angle. This gives it more of a polished, rounded look, which is better than just a square piece of molding. Apply with finish nails, with tiny little heads, or with trim-head screws, which look nicer than your average screw.

Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

Then make up the bed, take photos, and email them to us at DIYLifeMail@aol.com. We'd love to see your results!

Create the Look: Jen Aniston Platform Bed

Once you have the platform bed, check out this video for some luxurious bedding ideas:

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Jessica Alba's Entryway Mirror with Shelf - Create the Look

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-12-23T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Maybe you can't afford to actually buy celebrity homes, but you can take inspiration from them. Here's a sneak peek into Jessica Alba's former Beverly Hills home, and illustrated instructions for how to make the eye-catching mirror/shelf combo that adorns her entryway wall.

(Left) The entryway to Jessica Alba's former home in Beverly Hills features a wood-framed beveled mirror with shelf. Photo: Realtor.com (Right) Alba at a red carpet event. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/VF1/WireImage.com.

Ever wish you could peek inside a celebrity's home? Us too. So when we got a look inside Jessica Alba's former Balinese-style home in Beverly Hills, we were enchanted with this mirror and shelf in the entryway.

Think about it: A mirror with a shelf in the entryway solves so many problems. It's a place to check your hair and makeup when you leave the house (ok, maybe it won't look as polished as Alba's, but still...). It's a place to set your keys when you get back home. And it's a handy spot to set things you want to remember, like outgoing mail, and a place for small vases of flowers that will get noticed.

But the first thing we really thought when we saw the wall-hung furnishing was, "That looks pretty easy to make!"

So we asked Gary M. Katz of THISisCarpentry to show us how to make the exact mirror with shelf from Jessica's abode. As you can see, the frame in Jessica's house is simple and modern with a straight shelf supported by a single bracket (also known as a corbel). We've added an extra corbel (the supportive member beneath the shelf) to make it sturdier.

The creation of this mirrored shelf will focus on three main tasks - 1) making the frame and shelf, 2) installing and securing the mirror, and 3) hanging your handiwork on the wall. Let's get to work!

TOOLS
Miter saw
Pocket-hole jig (to assemble the frame)
Router with a 1/2 -in. bit (to cut a groove in the frame for the mirror to fit)
Drill/screwdriver
Clamps

MATERIALS
Three 1-x-6-in. x 8 ft. pieces of pine or other lumber (for the frame, shelf, and corbles)
Two 1x2-in. x 8 ft. piece of pine or other lumber (for the back band)
Two 1/2-x-1 1/2-in. x 6 ft. pine or other lumber for the glass stop
Fast-acting glue or carpenter's wood glue
Brads (small nails)
A beveled mirror (which you will have cut to fit your frame)
Long, pan-head hardened-steel screws

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Build Jessica Alba Entryway Mirror with Shelf

This illustration shows all of the pieces you'll need to cut and where they'll go when you assemble the unit.

Start by cutting all the pieces for the frame using 2 of the 1-x-6-inch pieces. Cut a top (60 inches long) and one side piece (19 inches) from the first 8-foot board, then cut the bottom and the other side piece from a second 8-foot board. No fancy angles are necessary; just "butt" cut (that's a straight cut) each end.

With the third 1-x-6-inch board, cut the shelf 58 inches long. Then, cut 2 corbels 4 1/2 inches long; corbels are the small vertical members that will support the shelf from underneath.

Gary M. Katz, THISisCarpentry.com

Build Jessica Albas Entryway Mirror Shelf

Now you want to assemble the shelf and corbels before adhering them to the frame.

Use a fast-acting glue (like 2P-10) or carpenters glue to glue the corbels to the shelf. Position each corbels 12" from the each end of the shelf, then draw pencil lines on both sides of each corbel to make sure you glue them in their precise spots. If you're using a fast-acting glue, remember that it dries with lightening speed, so measure twice, glue once. If you're using carpenters' glue, use bar clamps, like these Quick-Grip clamps, to hold the corbels in place until the glue dries.

Build Jessica Albas Entryway Mirror Shelf

To attach the frame pieces without unsightly nails or screws, you're going to use a pocket-hole screw kit. A pocket-hole jig is really just a miniature drill press that helps guide a drill bit at a precise angle. Because the drill bit enters the wood at an acute angle, it cuts a neat little "pocket" for a screw. Using pocket holes and pocket-hole clamps is a slick way of jointing picture frames, whether the corners are mitered or have butt joints, like this mirror frame. (If you're not familiar with pocket screws, you should buy the inexpensive kit and practice on some scrap pieces of lumber.)

When you're ready, drill two or three pocket holes in both ends of the mirror frame sides (in the rear of the frame, as pictured), then assemble the frame with glue and 1 1/2-in. pocket screws. Use a clamp to make sure the joints are flush!

Build Jessica Albas Entryway Mirror Shelf

You can use a little carpenter's glue on the back edge of the shelf for added strength and hold it together with clamps while you prepare to put in the screws.

Build Jessica Albas Entryway Mirror Shelf

Now for mounting the mirror. When you mount a mirror to the back of a frame, you need to create a ledge or notch to set the mirror in so that the glass is secure. One way to make that ledge is by installing a light frame of 1/4-in. strips of wood all the way around the back of the mirror frame. However, making and attaching a frame from such thin material isn't a lot of fun. And, most of all, the results are not attractive.

A much more pleasing method -because it's clean, neat, easy, and fun - is cutting a "rabbet" or a notch all the way around the inside of the wooden frame for the mirror to sit in. A rabbet is extremely easy to cut with a router. If you have a router sitting around that you never used because you didn't know how, or if you've wanted to buy one but didn't know what you'd do with it, now is your chance to learn.

Set the bit so that it cuts 1/4 in. deep, then run the router around the inside of the frame. See a video on this.

Measure the opening for the mirror from the side of the new groove, then subtract 1/8 in. in each direction and order the beveled mirror of that size from a glass shop.

Build Jessica Albas Entryway Mirror Shelf

Mount the shelf and corbels on the frame with pan-head screws from the back of the frame. Drill pilot holes for each screw! Be sure to measure to the center of the shelf and the center of the corbels. If you installed the corbels 12" from the ends of the shelf, these measurements should work to help you center the mounting screws. But check to be sure they do! And use a little carpenter's glue on the back edge of the shelf for added strength.

Build Jessica Albas Entryway Mirror Shelf

When the mirror arrives, set it inside your handy routed notches, and install 1/2" x 1 1/2" mirror stops around it, attaching the mirror stops with 3/4-in. pan-head screws.

Now, prepare the mirror for hanging. Most picture frames are hung on the wall using wire and picture-frame hooks. That would work for this frame, too, but then the top of the frame would lean out from the wall, while the bottom would touch the wall. To prevent the mirror from tilting, install a 1-x-2-in. band around the back of the frame. here's a slick way to install the frame so that it sits flat on the wall.

Using glue and small nails, position it about an inch or so inside the edge of the frame. Use 2-inch pan-head screws to fasten the backband to the frame.

Build Jessica Albas Entryway Mirror Shelf

Now that you have a backband, you can install a "cleat" that fits inside the of the backband and makes it easy to install the frame on the wall. br/>
To make the cleat, cut another piece of 1-x-2 in. wood to fit inside the top of the backband, but don't fasten that piece in place just yet. First, locate where the mirror will hang and find out where the studs are inside the wall. You can use a stud finder device or use the time-tested method of tapping on the wall and listening for the solid sound of a stud. Then, cut a notch in the cleat to correspond with each wall stud so that the notches will ultimately slip over the mounting screws you'll put in the wall. (Here, you see two notches cut into the cleat.) Then fasten the cleat inside the backband using 1 3/4-in. pan-head screws.

Build Jessica Albas Entryway Mirror Shelf

The final step: Drive two long, pan-head hardened-steel screws into the wall studs, and stop driving the screws when the heads are 1 in. from the wall (in carpenter-speak, this is called leaving the screws 1 in. proud"). Hang the mirror by slipping the notches in the cleat over the screws.

Build Jessica Albas Entryway Mirror Shelf

Kathy Price-Robinson is a home improvement author. Read more of her stories at Kathy's Remodeling Blog.

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Does It Pay to Remodel Your Home?

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-11-29T07:10:00 00:00

Filed under: remodeling, Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Big Projects, Living Spaces, Outdoors

When sprucing up your home, here are the remodeling projects that will give you the most bang for your buck.

Photo: Getty Images

Each year, following the release of Remodeling Magazine's annual Cost vs. Value Report, we see a slew of headlines telling us "It Doesn't Pay to Remodel Your Home."

But despite the naysayers, a home-renovation project can still be profitable -- even in this current market. As any savvy DIYer will notice, the costs of the projects are inflated to cover the expense of hiring professionals. Those who take on DIY home improvement projects can plug in their own costs, note the value stated in the report and calculate a custom cost vs. value return percentage.

For instance, if a DIYer completes a major kitchen remodel for $30,000 and the return is an expected $40,126, that's a big 133% return (approx.) on expenditures.

Seen in those terms, yes, it pays to remodel your home.

Photo: Getty Images

You can make well-informed home improvement choices by calculating how much a certain improvement will increase the value of you house when (or if) you sell. And for DIYers, the payback percentage is even greater. According to the 2010 Remodeling Cost vs. Value survey, outside improvements bring the most return on resale. For instance, if you replace your front entry door with a steel model for $1,218, your home's value should increase $1,243 (or 102% of the investment, according to national averages).

The survey's values are calculated from data provided by more than 3,000 appraisers, sales agents and brokers. In all, the survey covers 35 popular remodeling projects in nine regions of the country. Those areas are further broken down into 80 major cities.

OUTDOOR PROJECTS
Here are some exterior improvements that should pay back fairly well:

Want to get the most bang for your buck? Install new garage doors. Photo: Getty Images

Project: Garage Door Replacement
Cost: $1,291
Return: $1,083
Recoup Value: 83.9%

Project: Siding Replacement (fiber-cement)
Cost: $13,382
Return: $10,707
Recoup Value: 80%

Project: Deck Addition (wood)
Cost: $10,973
Return: $7,986
Recoup Value: 72.8%

Project: Window Replacement (wood)
Cost: $12,027
Return: $8,707
Recoup Value: 72.4%

INDOOR PROJECTS
Certain indoor projects bring better paybacks than others. On the low side are home office remodels (45.8% return), sunroom additions (48.6% return) and backup generators (48.5% return). Indoor projects with the greatest return include:

Considering a modern vent hood replacement? Save your money. It'll give you the lowest return on investment. Photo: Getty Images

Project: Minor Kitchen Remodel
Cost: $21,695
Value: $15,790
Recoup Value: 72.8%

Project: Basement Remodel
Cost: $64,519
Value: $45,186
Recoup Value: 70%

Project: Major Kitchen Remodel
Cost: $58,367
Value: $40,126
Recoup Value: 68.7%

To research costs for professionally done projects, expected recoup value, and trends in your area, click on your region below.

EAST
New England
Middle Atlantic

SOUTH
South Atlantic
East South Central
West South Central

MIDWEST
East North Central
West North Central

WEST
Mountain
Pacific

To compare projects and regions, go to the Cost vs. Value Report.

SEE ALSO:
5 Projects That Can Devalue Your Home
Remodeling: When It's Worth the Cost (Housing Watch)
The Vanilla Ice Project: Rapper Turned Remodler

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Avoid a Thanksgiving Visit from the Plumber

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-11-18T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Holidays, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Between discarded leftovers and seasonal house guests, Thanksgiving is the busiest time of year for plumbers. In fact, plumbing problems spike 50% the day after Thanksgiving. Get through the holiday free and clear with these smart plumbing tips.

Photo: ImaginaryGirl, Flickr

As Thanksgiving approaches, turkeys aren't the only ones in imminent danger; your drains are in jeopardy too. According to most plumbers, the day after Thanksgiving is busiest day of the year, as calls from frantic homeowners with clogged drains flood the phone lines.

"Our phones will be ringing off the hook from homeowners who have clogged up their drain with leftover turkey and the fixings," notes Wayne Johnson of Minneapolis St. Paul Plumbing Heating Air, who writes in the company blog. "TV news stations will be requesting to meet us at homes to talk about the clogged drains."

According to Paul Abrams, a spokesman with Roto-Rooter headquarters in Cinncinatti, Ohio, calls about clogs spike 50% on Black Friday, the day after Thanksgiving.

"The big clog culprits are grease, potato peelings, rice, poultry skin, celery and stuffing down the garbage disposal," Abrams told us. "We also deal with a large number of clogged toilets and bathtub and shower drains plus laundry drains, simply because of all the extra use from having so many guests in the house."

In order to enjoy your traditional Thanksgiving meal and visitors without an extra, unwanted guest -- a pricey plumber -- consider these strategies:

Photo: Getty Images

Kitchen Plumbing Tips

- Do not put fats and cooking oil into pipes. They'll turn solid and create clogs. Instead, use paper towels to wipe grease from pots, then toss the towels in the trash.

- Avoid putting stringy, fibrous or starchy waste in the garbage disposal. You might not think these foods are dangerous to drains, but they are. Poultry skins, potato peels, celery and fruit, for instance, cannot be sufficiently broken down and can cause clogs. Here's how to fix a jammed garbage disposal.

- Make sure the disposal is running when you put food into it. Don't wait until it's full to turn it on. Here's how to clean a stinky garage disposal.

- Run lots of water as you use the garbage disposal. Keep the water running for a bit of time after you turn it off.

- Use the garbage can.To protect your drains even more, forgo use of the garbage disposal as much as possible and toss food waste into the trashcan. And if a pig farmer lives nearby who wants your food scraps, this is one day when you can be thankful for that. Here's how to clean a smelly garbage can.

Bathroom Plumbing Tips

- Take time between showers: If a lot of extra guests are in the house, there will be more water, hair and waste moving through the drains than. Try to wait 10 minutes between showers so slow drains have time to do their job.

- Do not flush cotton balls, swabs, hair or facial scrub pads down the toilet. This applies during holidays or at any time. These things won't dissolve and will cause clogs. Here are two secret ways to clear a clogged drain.

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Wackiest Things Found in Drains: Part Two

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-11-17T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects

Do you do your own plumbing? If not, you may want to start -- out of sheer embarrassment! We interviewed a spokesman for Roto-Rooter to find out the oddest things plumbers ever found clogging up sinks and toilets. Paint brushes? Prosthetic eyeballs? Prepare to be floored.

Corbis

You already know that you can rescue anything from your p-trap -- but did you ever wonder what kinds of things actually fall down the sink drain in the first place? Or get stuck in the toilet, and you never even know it? We did.

So we asked Roto-Rooter spokesman Paul Abrams for some of the strangest things the company's plumbers have ever found in clients' drains. "If it will fit, we've found it in a drain at one time or another," he said. Abrams' list of weird things found in drains both amazed and disgusted us. So of course, we had to share our favorites with you.

Did this ever happen to you? Now imagine it fell all the one down -- or was flushed! Photo: Getty Images

Personal Electronic Devices
Cell phones
Pagers
iPod
Watches
Batteries

Need a blade? You might want to check your plumbing. Corbis

Things That Fell Out of Pockets
Cigarette lighters
Pocket knives

Some DIYer must have been examining his plumbing too closely -- because this entire flashlight wound up lodged in the pipes. Photo: Corbis

Home Improvement Supplies
Flashlights
Paint brush
Foam insulation aerosol can
Ball bearings

We can think of better places for tool storage. Photo: Getty Images

Everything But the Toolbox
Screwdrivers
Pliers
Hammer
Vice grips
Nails
Screws
Nuts and bolts

Wondering why you overslept? Probably because you accidentally flushed your alarm clock down the toilet. Photo: Getty Images

Random Household Items
Bottle opener
Alarm clock
Ice pick

Guess which element of this photo ended up down the drain. (Hint: It's not the hair.) Photo: Getty Images

Sundries
Deodorant container (stick variety and aerosol)
Electric razors (2 so far)
Baby powder container (travel size)
Combs
Hair brushes

A diamond engagement ring, down the drain? You bet. It's pretty common, actually. Photo: AP

Jewelry and Accessories
Earrings
Bracelets
Necklaces
Diamond engagement ring (dozens)
Men's rings
Eye glasses
Sun glasses

Shotgun shells, ok. But bullets from the Civil War era? We just don't get it. Photo: Getty Images

Items of Warfare
Civil War era cannon shell
Leftover from Siege of Vicksburg during Civil War Vicksburg, MS
Bullets of every imaginable caliber
Shotgun shells

A Groucho mask: possibly one of the funniest things to be flushed down the toilet. Photo: Getty Images

Party Items
Plastic cups
Liquor bottles (the tiny variety served on airliners)
Groucho Marx Halloween mask

Toy cars have a way of driving themselves right down the drain. Photo: Getty Images

Kids' Stuff
Hot Wheels / Matchbox cars (too many to count)
Army men (More than a brigade's worth, so far)
GI Joe dolls (less than a platoon's worth)

How are you going to explain this one to your dentist? Photo: Getty Images

Gross Stuff
Prosthetic eyeball
False teeth
Gold teeth
Toupees

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Carving Tools: A Turkey Day Guide

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-11-15T10:15:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Products & Materials, Holidays, Crafts & Celebrations

Turkey carving: it's the ultimate DIY job on Thanksgiving. Don't mess with a dull blade when you've got a table full of hungry holiday-goers. These cutting edge tools will help you make short work of your Thanksgiving bird.

Photo: jupiterimages

Ever since the Pilgrims and Natives shared their first fall feast, the hunt has been on for gadgets to make the turkey carving easier. When the electric knife burst onto the scene a few decades ago, gadget fans vibrated with delight. What could spell the golden age of machines more vividly than an electric kitchen blade?

Admittedly, no turkey-carving gadget since then has matched the decadence of the electric carving knife. But there are some contenders to be thankful for. Here, we highlight our 5 favorite turkey-carving gadgets, each tailored to a specific kind of DIYer.

The Uber Prepared
Anyone smarter than a turkey knows that in order to carve a bird, you've got to get it up and out of the roasting pan. But how? Unless that bird is rigged up beforehand, you end up with a sizzling hot and heavy bundle to heave ho.

Your Gadget: Turkey Lifters

All-Clad Turkey Lifters. Photo: Amazon.com

Turkey lifters are a pair of ergonomically designed, wide fork with prongs several inches apart and many inches long. To use, stick one lifter into each side of the bird, get your balance, then lift and shift, gracefully, to a platter. These 18/10 stainless steel All-Clad utensils cost about $35 for the pair.

Before you lift the turkey from the pan, though, remember that good cooks suggest allowing your bird to sit for 30 minutes before carving lest all the juices drain away. See turkey carving tips at Holidash, Slash Food and Kitchen Daily.

The Luxury DIYer
If you're into high-end gadgets, you might enjoy spoiling yourself with some of the finest carving knives around.

Your Gadget: Shun Classic Two-Piece Carving Set: a $230 carving knife set in a red-velvet-lined bamboo box.

8" carving knife and fork set by Shun. Photo: Amazon.com

This sexy carving set ranked highest (9 points out of 10 for presentation, 9.5 for performance) by a panel of serious knife set testers at Slate.com. They wrote: "This gorgeous commercial knife set . . . has a serious pointy tip and a significant recurve. The sculptural black handle is asymmetrically shaped to nestle into your right hand (left-handers can special-order).What's more, Shun's fork is indisputably the prettiest." And: "While other knives had us wishing they could be fine-tuned, the Shun performed terrifically out of the box. . . . What's more, the thinness of the blade is distinctive, making it easier to slice thinly."

Mr. or Ms. Practical
Some people prefer function over form. They eat, breathe and live moderation. We're talking Saturns, Dockers, Hush Puppies, Sears, and the occasional nice meal at Olive Garden.

Your Gadget: Black and Decker Home Slice Right Electric Knife

Black and Decker's electric knife is a top seller. Photo: Amazon.com

This old standard is the #1 Amazon bestseller in the small appliance category. And with good reason. It's less than $20, has a 7-inch serrated stainless steel blade, a non-slip handle and a safety lock. After turkey day, you can use it to cut cheese, home-baked bread, gourds and watermelon.

The Techie
If you believe technology can solve all the world's problems -- or it just makes you really happy -- we've got a device for you.

Your Gadget: The Turkey Caller. Uh oh. One problem: this gadget hasn't been invented yet.

Photo: Elmada, Flickr; illustration: Kathy Price-Robinson

In the future, I envision a sensor that calls your cell phone when the turkey is done. Consider these points:

1) A turkey carves best when it's perfectly done, neither raw nor fossilized,
2) Sensors already exist that indicate when the turkey is done. They're called thermometers. Plus, some turkeys come installed with little red buttons that pop up when it's done. Of course, these technologies require the burden of actually looking into the oven, a tiresome act that lets heat escape. Haven't we evolved past that?
3) If new washing machines can send a signal to the shop indicating they need service, and the On-Star folks know when you bump your bumper, why can't a teeny little chip inside the turkey just send your cell phone a simple text: "I'm done. Come and carve me."

What gadget do you swear by for carving the Thanksgiving turkey?

SEE ALSO:
What Is My Thanksgiving Turkey? (Holidash)
Apple, Pine Cone and Candle Centerpiece for Thanksgiving (ShelterPop)
Thanksgiving Cornucopia (Kitchen Daily)

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Mouse Control, the Humane Way

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-11-12T08:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

As temperatures drop, mice look for places to get warm and well-fed -- like your home (can you blame them?). Here are some humane approaches to mouse control.

Getty Images

As the weather gets colder, our homes become a cozy and welcoming refuge. Unfortunately, mice feel the same way about your comfy abode. The very qualities that make our homes attractive to us - food, water and warmth - make our homes attractive to those furry little critters.

While retailers and pest control companies promote tons of mice-killing devices and services (like snap traps, poisons, fumigation and the dreaded glue trap), there are kinder, gentler ways to get rid of rodents -- by preventing the problem in the first place. Prevention makes sense when you consider the prodigious life of mice. In a single year, according to the Illinois Dept. of Public Health (IDPH) a female may have five to 10 litters of usually five or six young each. Young are born 19 to 21 days after mating, and they are mature in six to 10 weeks. The life span of a mouse is about nine to 12 months. That's a a whole lot of mice from just one trespasser.

The two key strategies for preventing mice are pretty simple: eliminate the food source and block entry into the house.

If prevention falls short and a mouse (or three) does invade, those of us averse to killing small creatures can trap mice live and relocate them to start over in more natural conditions. More on that later.

Eliminate Food Sources for Mice

Apartment Therapy

The first line of defense against mice infestation is to keep the tasty morsels that attract them to a minimum. This includes storing food in mice-proof containers. Store all dried grain and meat in glass jars, metal canisters, or other resealable airtight containers. If you have pets, keep their indoor food dishes covered when not in use. Mice need very little food to survive, so keeping the floor clear of crumbs goes a long way.

A Mouse-Proof House
Even with the house is sanitary and food items in mice-proof containers, the job is still incomplete. According to the Illinois Department of Public Health (IDPH), "No matter how good the sanitation, most buildings in which food is stored, handled or used will support house mice if [they're] not mouse-proofed."

Mice are tiny and can fit through small openings. However, they cannot go through solid walls. Your job is to patch any hole into your house larger than 1/4 inch. As you know, mice will chew through just about anything, so simple caulk won't do the job. The IDPH suggests mixing steel wool with caulking compound for a good plug. For cracks and openings in building foundations and openings for water pipes, vents and utilities, seal with metal or concrete for the best protection.

Also, doors, windows and window screens should fit snugly. You may need to add metal edging to prevent mice from gnawing. Note that plastic sheeting or screen, wood, rubber or other materials that mice can gnaw through will not be effective for plugging small holes. The mice will simply gnaw through them again.

And for the most natural of all deterrents, get yourself a cat.

Live Trapping
When prevention fails, trapping will be necessary.

As mentioned above, you can kill mice in many ways. Some methods, like snap traps, are quick and humane. But others, like glue traps and poison, cause prolonged suffering.

For those of us adverse to killing, it's possible (even for the squeamish) to catch rodent intruders and relocate them to a field 1/2 a mile or so away. Live traps usually include some kind of a pivoting ramp that leads into a metal box with air holes. Aromatic bait (cheese or peanut butter) draws the mouse into the box via the ramp, which pivots to let the mice in and then pivots back to trap the mouse. Many of these traps can catch several mice in one night. Your job is to carry the box to a field, open it and let the mice escape. Wear gloves, keep your hands away from the critters, and clean your hands thoroughly.

One note on live traps: When reading consumer reviews on live traps, you'll notice some products seem to work great for some people, and not at all for others. Could it be that mice in certain parts of the country, or certain neighborhoods, or even certain houses, fall for some types of traps and not others? One suggestion is to try several types of live traps if needed to find one that works.

Here are a few humane traps to consider:

1. Eaton Multiple-Catch Mouse Trap

Photo: Amazon.com

This metal trap costs around $10 and you can use it over and over again to catch multiple mice. To release the mice, you open the lid and let them run out.

2. Mice Cube

Photo: Amazon.com

This simple cube is about $10 to $12 for a pack of 4 and is simple to use. Once you have caught some mice in this plastic trap, you simply turn it upside down to allow the pivoting ramp to open and let your captives run free into their new lives.

Humane Mouse Trap

Photo: Amazon.com

The makers of this little green house claims it will catch mice when other humane traps will not. it certainly is cute.

Do-It-Yourself Mouse Traps
The goal of most humane DIY mousetraps is to entice mice into a bucket or container too tall for them to jump out of.

Photo: Chris Glass

One method suggests positioning an empty toilet paper roll with bait at the edge of a table and with a bucket beneath. When the mouse comes after the bait, the toilet paper roll pivots from the weight and dumps the mouse in the bucket. If your mice are good jumpers, shredded newspaper at the bottom of the bucket helps cut down on their jumping power.

For another type of do-it-yourself mouse trap, start with a 5-gallon bucket or a plastic trash can. Run a piece of thin string or wire through a paper plate or a soda can and attach the string or wire to either side of the bucket rim. Create a ramp up to the top with sticks or branches so a mouse can run up to the top of the bucket and toward the dab of peanut butter you'll put in the middle of the plate or on the can. When the mouse steps on the plate or can, it will pivot and dump the mouse into the bucket.

Note: After you live-trap mice, they cannot survive without food and water for longer than a few hours. And if you're averse to killing, you certainly don't want to kill your trapped mice, so you need to check the trap every few hours, or provide food and water until you can get out to a field. Make sure you release the mice far from your house or they'll just come right back "home".

If all this seems like too much trouble, and killing mice is not something you mind that much, you can find a plethora of mousetraps at your local hardware store.

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Weatherstripping Doors and Windows: Fall Maintenance

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-10-15T14:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Small Spaces, Know-How, Living Spaces

Weatherstripping doors and windows can reduce drafty air in your home and lower utility bills. Take time to seal up leaky cracks and openings now, so you can stay warm and toasty all winter long.

Ryan McVay, Getty Images

The shortening days of autumn are a hint that winter are just around the corner. They're also our cue to start considering ways to keep the house warm and toasty -- without going broke. What's eating up your energy bill? Often, the major culprits are as simple as your home's doors and windows: prime escape routes for heat.

To better understand the financial impact of a drafty house, try this three-part exercise:

1. Take a $20 bill out of your wallet.
2. Walk over to one of those leaky windows or doors.
3. Toss the money out and let the wind carry it away.

It sounds funny, but that's essentially what's happening when you let indoor air escape through door and window openings. Combat these cracks with weatherstripping: an easy, inexpensive tool for sealing openings, staying warm, and reducing your heating bills.

Weatherize Your Home
There are a few easy ways to determine if your home needs weatherstripping. First, check for gaps around the doors and windows throughout the house. On a windy day, run your hand around the sides to feel if air is coming through. Also, look for light shining through. If you can feel air or see light, weatherstripping is needed.

Weatherstripping comes in many materials, including wood, rubber, metal and foam -- all of which are carried by most hardware stores and home centers. Different types of weatherstripping are necessary for different applications. Here are popular forms of weatherstipping that work well on both doors and windows:

Weatherstripping Windows
Different types of weatherstripping work best of different parts of a window. Below is a diagram for a double-hung window, the most common model, in which the upper and lower sashes move on a vertical track.

Getty/AOL

- Adhesive-backed foam is the easiest weatherstripping to apply, and it's very inexpensive -- a few dollars' worth covers one window. It works well when adhered to the friction-free parts of a window, such as the bottom of the lower window sash and the top of the upper sash. When sealing double-hung windows, do not install strips of foam weatherstripping in the vertical channels of the window frame. The up and down movement of the window will cause strips to peel off. For window sashes that move horizontally, place the foam strips on the vertical surface where the window closes. The foam will compress when the window shuts and block air infiltration.

Foam weatherstripping with an adhesive backing. Photo: Kathy Price-Robinson

- V-shaped vinyl strips work well for the top and sides of wood-framed windows. Durable and easy to install, this type of weatherstripping comes with a sticky adhesive backing folded along its length in a V-shape. The shape of the material creates a tension seal that bridges the gap between a window sash and the window frame. One side of the V sticks on the surface of the window frame and the other side folds in slightly as the window is closed, creating an air shield that blocks drafts.

V-shaped vinyl strips with an adhesive backing. Photo: Kathy Price-Robinson

Top: Spring metal weatherstripping (Photo: Gridline Structures). Bottom: Felt weatherstripping (Photo: Sears).

- Spring-metal V-strips operate like the vinyl strips, but offer a more aesthetically pleasing appearance that can last decades. (Adhesive-backed foam is not a permanent type of weatherstripping, and needs to be replaced every one to three years.)

Because spring metal is nailed into place, installation is trickier than the self-adhesive vinyl strips.

Spring metal strips are also available in copper, aluminum, bronze or aluminum.

- Felt, while not the most attractive, is an older-fashioned type of weatherstripping that works well and is stapled, glued or nailed into pace.

Attach felt strips to the bottom of the lower sash, the top of the upper sash, and the interior sides of the upper sash to block out air. In the case of metal windows, where nailing or stapling into the frame can cause problems, weatherstripping with felt takes more finesse and may be a job better suited for a professional.

Weatherstripping Doors
For non-sliding doors, adhesive-backed foam can be attached to the door stop, the narrow strip of wood that stops the door from swinging all the way through the jamb when you close it. Foam strips provide the advantage of muffling noise from room to room, and silencing the sounds of the door closing.

Jolie Novak, AOL

Spring-metal V-strips are a more attractive form of weatherstripping for doors. When installed properly, along the sides and the top of the door frame, the strips are not visible when the door is closed. Before you install, determine if the door is hanging evenly within the frame. It will be hard to find weatherstripping that fills gaps with any consistency. Look to make sure the distance between the door and the frame is the same along all sides. If the door if not try adjusting the door. Sometimes, adjusting a door is as simple as tightening up the screws attached to the hinges.

For the bottom of the door, there are many ways to seal the gap between the threshold, the raised seal underneath the door. If the wooden threshold is worn down, consider replacing it. Use a door sweep, which attaches to the bottom of the door, to create an air block between the door and threshold. Follow these instructions to make your doors draft-free.

Weatherstripping Penetrations
Whenever the shell of the house is penetrated, there is an opportunity for conditioned air to escape. Check places where plumbing or electrical runs enter a house. It's very difficult for builders to cut the exact size hole for these penetrations, so you'll want to fill in the open area around those pipes with spray foam.

Weatherstripping Electrical Outlets
Foam gaskets are inexpensive and go behind electrical outlet covers to prevent drafty air from seeping inside the wall cavity.

Basic Weatherstripping Guidelines:
- No matter which adhesive weatherstripping you use, make sure the surface you stick it on is clean and dry.
- Weatherstripping should be applied to surfaces in temperatures above 20 degrees F.
- Apply weatherstripping tightly against both surfaces. The material should compress when the window or door is shut.

SEE ALSO:
Install a Replacement Window
Fall Maintenance: Clean Your Fireplace
Weatherize Your Home (U.S. Department of Energy)

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The Vanilla Ice Project: Our Revealing Q&A with the Rapper-Turned-Remodeler

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-10-07T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Makeovers & Inspiration

In 1990, he created a sensation with his hip-hop single, Ice Ice Baby. Two decades, several public controversies, and many life lessons later, Rob Van Winkle emerges from the shadow of his alter-ego, Vanilla Ice, to debut a mellow, more mature attitude and a new show, The Vanilla Ice Project, on the DIY Network.

We spoke exclusively with the rapper-turned-remodeler about his life in and out of the public eye, and how he found solace as a professional DIYer.

The Vanilla Ice Project premeires October 14th on the DIY Network. In it, Rob Van Winkle renovates this 7,000-square-foot mansion in Florida. Photo: DIY Network

When you hear the name Vanilla Ice, you probably think of the young, cocky rapper who exploded onto the music scene with his 1990 hit, Ice Ice Baby -- the first hip-hop single ever to top the Billboard charts. You probably would not imagine the serene, grounded, knowledgeable gentleman I spoke with by phone recently following an appearance of his in London.

During his early adulthood and beyond, Vanilla Ice -- born Rob Van Winkle in 1967 -- drew both fame and disdain for his outsized personality, over-the-top outfits and hairstyles, and -- a bit later -- his onscreen rants while destroying sets on MTV and VH1's The Surreal Life. While most of these antics happened years ago, they live on in YouTube clips and the collective public memory.

In the past decade, though, out of the camera's eye, Rob got married, had two children, rediscovered his childhood love of making things, and grew into an accomplished builder, renovator and savvy house-flipper. "A lot of the things I do in these homes are personally gratifying," Rob told me. "You can cross your arms at the end and say 'Wow. I did that,' and you can take pride in it."

Most recently, Rob landed his own half-hour series, The Vanilla Ice Project, which premieres October 14th on the DIY Network. In it, he chronicles his experiences flipping a 7,000-square-foot mansion in Palm Beach, Florida.

We had a few questions for the star of the show:

Rapper-turned-remodeler Rob Van Winkle installs hardwood flooring in his new TV show, the Vanilla Ice Project. Photo: DIY Network

DIY Life: How did you get into flipping (buying, fixing up and selling) homes?

Rob: I learned to invest in real estate by accident. When I was in my early 20s, I earned a ton of money; about $20 million. I'm not a rocket scientist. I don't know anything about the stock market. So I thought, "Ok, I'm going to buy a home in L.A. because I work a lot in L.A." I bought a home in New York City too -- on Bleecker Street in [Greenwich] Village -- because I'm there 3 or 4 months out of the year. And I bought myself a ski resort house in Snowbird, Utah.

For three years I was on tour around the world. Finally I went back home and looked [around my] houses. No one had been there, and there were cobwebs in the corners. I stood there going, "Gee, I spent all this money on these houses and haven't used any of them. [I'll just] sell 'em all and if I need [someplace to live] I'll rent something." When I sold the homes, I made money on every single one of them -- hundreds of thousands of dollars. I thought, "You've got to be kidding me. It can't be this easy." Of course, that's when real estate was really good (in the 1990s).

Finally I bought a home on Star Island in Miami Beach, and I lived there for 11 years. I was a bachelor and had like 14 bedrooms. So I had [the house] decorated. I had a purple room. I had a red TV room. It was like a big nightclub. I'm talking bachelor pad to the -nth degree. I loved it for a year or so and then I'm like, "It's just not feeling like home. I want to get out of there. I want to take vacations." I didn't even want to stay in my own house. And I always had to have friends over. I'd say to them, "Can you come spend the night with me? I'm lonely. I'll pay for your plane flight."

DIY Life: So you got married in 1998 and you had two kids. Is that when you seriously got into building?

Rob: Yes, I've been doing this for more than 10 years. Not just flipping homes, but remodeling them. And when the market was really good, up until 2005, I was also buying land and building homes. It would take me more than a year to get a return on the money [for each home].

So I [went] to these seminars by (real estate investing guru) Robert Shemin. I read his books and learned a ton about real estate. And with the economy dropping and the real estate market dropping like it did [in the past few years], I learned how to adapt -- and it actually works better for me as an investor now. Now I can buy a home [for less money] than I can build one, and I don't have to go through that long-term process of building it. I can get these distressed homes, and get some really good deals. Then three or four months later [after renovating them], I can make money. It's very profitable. And it's something I enjoy doing. It's actually fun for me, you know?

DIY Life: It was reported in the news that you had some rough years and got into drugs. Were you living in that house when you had some of your lowest years?

Rob: Yeah, I had a "weekend" that lasted a few years. But I made it through. I'm a survivor. You live and you learn. They say yesterday's history and tomorrow's a mystery. I strongly believe in that. That's what makes you who you are, when you think about it. All the negatives that happen in your life, you can turn [them] into a positive. You know that path leads to self-destruction, and it's miserable and you don't want to end up down there and so you don't take that path.

Rob Van Winkle, a.k.a. Vanilla Ice, says his crew loved being on camera during the filming of The Vanilla Ice Project. Photo: DIY Network

DIY Life: You have a reputation for having a temper. On this show, people might be expecting you to get angry; after all, construction and remodeling houses can be frustrating. But watching the first couple of episodes, I was amazed that you were so calm.

Rob: I've had therapy so I'm good. (laughs)

But years ago I went onto MTV and with Jon Stewart, Jeneane Garofalo, Chris Kattan and they wanted me to take a hammer and destroy my own music video. It was like throwing me out there in a pack of wolves. And I (had) made MTV millions and millions of dollars. And I said instead of me smashing my own video I'm going to smash your whole set up. And it was great. It got the highest ratings of all their shows.

And so then I went on [VH1's] The Surreal Life and smashed up the set. But a lot of people don't get it with these reality shows, and I hate to say this, but a lot of the stuff is staged. It's not as real as people think. I played up to that role because I know it creates ratings and people really get into it.

DIY Life: Tell me about the house that The Vanilla Ice Project revolves around.

Rob: It's a 7,000-square-foot mansion that once was beautiful but had been completely gutted, inside and out. There was no cabinetry, no toilets, no air conditioning, no stair rails. They took the doors and the door frames, the Jacuzzi tub. They even took a hammer to the beautiful Travertine tile on the walls of the shower and the pavers around the pool. They ransacked this house.

DIY Life: Who would ransack a beautiful house?

Rob: You basically have someone who bought the house in 2005 or 2006 and they probably paid way too much for the house with the market dropping. And they probably had to spend 20 percent to get the mortgage so they've lost a couple of hundred grand. So they took everything, even the crown molding. On one side you really can't blame them for trying to recoup some of their money. But on the flip side, they destroyed a beautiful house. And what didn't work out for them worked out great for me. I got a great deal on it from the bank on a short sale. The shell was there, the concrete work was in, and the roof was tight, so I didn't worry. To me it was a lot of work, but it was all cosmetic. I knew I could handle the job pretty easily. We spent a couple of hundred grand fixing it back up and remodeling it.

DIY Life: So do you think you'll make money on this house?

Rob: Yes. The process is pretty simple. If you buy a house, even today, way under the appraised value, you can make money. This house appraised for way over what I paid. I paid about $420,000 and there are about $300,000 in fix-ups. It's 7,000 square feet. It's got vaulted ceilings. It's got 8-foot doors all throughout, Travertine tiles, hot tub, tons of crown molding. It should appraise at about $1 million when it's done.

DIY Life: Is this a good time to be fixing up and flipping houses?

You can get some really good deals out there because people are hurting; they want to work, so labor costs a little less money. You can get some good deals on cabinetry and floors because manufacturers are struggling too.

DIY Life: On "The Vanilla Ice Project" your crew seems to be having a good time. What's it like in real life?

Rob: We have a good time. [I could] crack a whip on the guys and say, "You didn't show up for work on time," or "Here's your agenda for the day; get this done," but that just kind of make it miserable for the guys. I do it way different.

I'm the kind that likes to get in there with the guys and swing a hammer. I also take [the workers] to lunch every day and make it fun. We jackass around; I want them to have fun at work. But I also let them know [they shouldn't] take that for granted.

I also like when the guys take on a little project themselves so they can sit back and feel proud of what they're doing, and it's not just like punching a time clock. I create a long-term relationship with these guys so that when it's time to go work for Rob, they drop everything else. It's fun to go to work. When you keep the morale up, [people] work harder and get your stuff done better and easier, with less headaches and drama.

DIY Life: One of my favorite scenes in the first episode is when you're fixing the pipe that goes from the lake to the sprinklers and you're on your side on the grass and barefoot. You're very relaxed but you know what you're doing with the pipe and adhesive. How did you learn all that?

Rob: I guess I learned just [being] hands-on, doing it for all these years. It's kind of [a new concept] to the public, but like I said I've been doing this for over 10 years so I know the way a house goes together, how the sprinklers work, how PVC pipe works. You just pick it up along the way.

DIY Life: Do you fix your own houses up too?

Rob: (laughs) Yes. I can't stop. It drives my wife crazy. I'll sit in the backyard and go, "I could see a fireplace over there, or an outdoor kitchen or something." And sure enough, there will [eventually] be one.

DIY Life: What else should we know about your show?

Rob: Whether you're a fan of Vanilla Ice or a fan of construction -- or neither -- I think people are going to get a really good kick out of the show. Not only is it interesting as a celebrity-type show, but we do a lot of things that are ultra-modern, that will wow people.

[For instance] we put an infinity pool in the yard with these fire pods that throw up like 8 feet of fire and change color. We put a theater in what used to be an attic. You hit one switch and the lights go down, the screen comes down, electric curtains slide open. And then we have mood lighting. If you walk in and you're in a bad mood, the lights go red. And they're fiber optics, with shooting stars all over the ceiling.

Plus, we create less of a carbon footprint. We use a lot of LED lights. We got rid of a big dangerous water heater in the garage. If you ran into it it would have flooded the garage, or if you break a gas line in the garage and light a cigarette it would explode. So we installed a tankless water heater outside. It costs less to run, and you never run out of hot water.

DIY Life: Besides touring with your music and releasing albums, what's next in the flipping department?

Rob: I'll be working on my next house whether [it's filmed] or not. But it would be great if there were a show because my guys seem to work harder when the camera's on. That motivates them. At the end of this house [project] we sat back and patted each other on the back and said, "Good job guys." I think it's a feel-good house and I hope that translates through the camera.

The Vanilla Ice Project debuts October 14, 2010 on the DIY Network. Check your local listings.

SEE ALSO:
Ex-rapper Vanilla Ice Flips Houses in Florida (Housing Watch)
House-Flipping Makes a Comeback (Wall Street Journal)

So you don't have a reality show and you're not an ex-rapper turned renovator -- it's okay! You can still start a renovation with great tips in this video:

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Protect Yourself from Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-09-06T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Getty Images

Feeling headache-y, nauseous, tired and confused? You might suspect a case of the flu. But it could also be the effects of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Carbon monoxide (CO) is an invisible, odorless fume that can be impossible to detect, which is why it's earned the ominous nickname "the silent killer." Carbon monoxide is emitted by the burning of fuel -- things like gas, wood, and charcoal. Gas-burning appliances, such as water heaters and furnaces and furnaces, give off carbon monoxide -- but if the appliances are functioning correctly, the carbon monoxide is vented to the outdoors.

On the other hand, if the appliance is not burning cleanly, and/or is not vented to the outside, you and your family could be slowly poisoned over time as you breathe in unhealthy doses of carbon monoxide.

Every year, about 200 people in the United States die from carbon monoxide poisoning associated with home fuel-burning heating appliances, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention state that carbon monoxide poisoning causes 430 non-intentional and non-fire-related deaths per year. And thousands more victims are treated in emergency rooms.

Symptoms of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning
In addition to the flu-like symptoms listed above, carbon monoxide poisoning may cause vomiting, chest pains and even hallucinations. In one famous case documented by The American Journal of Emergency Medicine (AJEM) a terrified 23-year-old woman was found delirious and hyperventilating after she thought she saw a ghost in the shower. In reality, a new water heater nearby had been improperly installed, causing it to put off the carbon monoxide that poisoned her.

Causes of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning
According to the CPSC, carbon monoxide poisoning is caused by these conditions:

-- Malfunctioning fuel-burning appliances, such as furnaces, ranges, water heaters and room heaters.
-- Engine-powered appliances, such as generators used inside. Generators should only be used outside and at least 15 feet from the house.
o. Charcoal that is burned inside.
o. Automobile exhaust from a car running in an attached garage. According to AJEM, elderly people are much more likely to die from carbon monoxide poisoning after leaving a car running in an attached garage.

A large number of carbon monoxide poisoning cases take place after weather and disasters knock out power and residents use carbon monoxide-emitting devices, such as charcoal grills, to keep warm. Also, if fireplaces chimneys become blocked (this sometimes happens during remodeling projects), dangerous levels of carbon monoxide can build up.

How to Prevent Carbon Monoxide Poisoning
The first line of defense is to take measure to make sure all appliances are in good repair and burning cleanly. Keep the chimney inspected and cleaned. Never leave the car running inside the garage. And never use camp stoves, charcoal stoves or generators inside an enclosed space like a house, cabin or tent.

A combination smoke/carbon monoxide detector, like this model by First Alert, is a sound investment. Photo: Smarthome

Next, buy and install carbon monoxide alarms inside your house. These devices will detect elevated levels of carbon monoxide in the air and sound a loud alarm. According to a study in The Journal of the American Medical Association, carbon monoxide detectors could have prevented half the fatalities in a New Mexico study group.

Carbon monoxide detectors can be hard-wired into the house, plugged into an outlet, or run by battery power. The idea is that detector will run on electricity and have a battery backup when the power goes out. And indeed, it's during those times when the power goes out that many carbon monoxide tragedies occur.

You can also buy a combination smoke/carbon monoxide alarm.

Place a carbon monoxide detector low on the wall; this makes plugging them into an outlet an ideal situation. The CPSC recommends placing one in the hallway outside each sleeping area. Prevent false alarms by not installing the device in the kitchen or directly above gas-powered appliances. (As we all know, when an alarm is so touchy that it goes off all the time and with little provocation, eventually we're going to disable it and leave ourselves and our families at risk.)

In the market for a carbon monoxide detector. Read consumer reviews online, like those from Consumer Reports. Depending on the model and source of power (AC or DC), your detector should be checked weekly or monthly (following manufacturer's instructions) to make sure it's working.

Considering all the other ways we protect ourselves and our families -- from seat belts to burglar alarms to eating right -- it only makes sense to invest some time and money into fighting and disarming the silent killer.

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5 Not-So-Scary Plumbing Fixes

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-09-01T13:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

Plumbing jobs can turn off even the most courageous DIYer. After all, who wants to deal with a burst pipe and a flooded bathroom? We're here to tell you: Some plumbing projects just sound scary -- but they're totally doable.

Anything he can do, you can do too. Or at least you can try. Photo: Getty Images

"What is your least favorite DIY task?"

When I posed this question on Kathy's Remodeling Blog, the majority of my readers (32%) voted that hanging drywall (called sheetrock in some areas of the country) is their least favorite DIY task. Their second least favorite task? Plumbing. 22% of my readers dread tasks of the H20 variety.

I can understand the drywall/sheetrock aversion. It's messy and takes a lot of artistry to get even a basic project to look good. But the aversion to plumbing probably doesn't stem from the idea that it's difficult, but rather because it seems scary. And yes, maybe a little gross.

Still, if you want do as much around the house as you can (DIYing saves money and builds confidence!), it's time to lose your FOP (fear of plumbing).

Here's a list of 5 not-so-scary plumbing jobs that you can conquer:

This is the wax ring that acts as a seal between the toilet and the floor. Photo: Ken R, Flickr

1. Replacing the wax ring of a toilet bowl
If you've ever replaced a toilet, you know that there's a wax ring that sits between the bottom of the toilet and a metal gasket, sealing the joint where the toilet meets the floor. If that wax ring degrades or otherwise stops doing its job, you'll get water leaks. A wax ring replacement is pretty cheap -- about $5 -- and the job is just as painless. Simply turn off the supply water to the toilet, unbolt the toilet, lift it up, replace the wax ring, and bolt the toilet back down again. In fact, if your toilet is due for an upgrade, go ahead and replace the whole toilet while you're at it. The biggest obstacle will be if the nuts on the bolts holding the toilet to the floor are rusted in place or otherwise impossible to remove. In that case they may need to be sawed off. But hey, give it a try before you call in a pro.

The p-trap is the curved pipe that leads from your sink to the wall. Photo: Corbis

2. Installing a new p-trap
A p-trap, named for its curved shape, is a portion of pipe that prevents sewer gases from escaping through your sink, and catches objects that fall down the drain. For such a useful piece of plumbing, the p-trap is pretty low-maintenance and DIY-friendly. You can rescue something from your p-trap or replace the p-trap in a few easy steps. Or you can be proactive by installing this handy contraption: a p-trap that theoretically never clogs.

3. Re-caulking a tub
Now you may ask yourself: Is caulking really a plumbing job? Heck yes it is! Caulk is integral to the sealing of plumbing fixtures and the containment of water. Around the tub, it creates a barrier to keep water from getting behind the tile or backer and into the wall, which can promote rot and lure pests. Silicone caulk creates a watertight seal, so it's best for plumbing applications. But it also has a reputation as a difficult product to work with; it's messy and hard to remove. But just because silicone caulk is stubborn doesn't mean it's scary. The process of removing and replacing caulk requires just a few tools -- namely a utility knife and a caulk gun -- and little technical skill. I suggest cutting the tip of the caulk tube at an angle and use an inexpensive caulk gun to squeeze it out slowly and carefully, using your finger to smooth it out. The verdict? This job may require some elbow grease but the results will be well worth the effort, for years to come.

A faucet aerator is a simple, smart way to save water. Photo: Getty Images

4. Installing an aerator
An aerator screws easily into the opening of a faucet, where it goes almost unnoticed while saving water. How? It adds air (in the form of tiny bubbles) to the water to make it seem more buoyant; essentially, to make it seem like there's more water coming out the faucet.. It's kind of like beating an egg until it froths. According to Earth Easy, faucet aerators can cut water consumption by up to 50%. If you've already got an aerator on your faucet and the water flow seems wonky or weak, just take the aerator off and rinse off the collected minerals. Then put it back, extend your right arm up, bend it at the elbow, and give yourself a pat on the back.

5. Snaking a drain
Why is it that once we've used Drano a few times to no avail, we feel the need to call in a plumber to unclog the drain? If you've got a seriously clogged drain that won't respond to liquid clog remover, use what's called a closet auger to snake your own drain. When you turn the handle of this twisty metal coil, it snakes its way into your drain, twisting and turning around bends in the pipes, and pushing aside whatever is there causing you grief. An auger costs around $30. It won't clear every clogged pipe that comes your way, but it's worth a try.

Do you do your own plumbing? Give us your tips and advice!

SEE ALSO:
5 Kitchen Trends We're Pretty Sure You'll Regret (ShelterPop)
How to Unclog the Sink (Casa Sugar)

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DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-08-06T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Patios, Porches & Decks, Outdoors

BEFORE

Kathy Price-Robinson

One day, when I wasn't looking, my once-charming front porch crossed over from shabby chic to utterly disgusting. I waited for the team from HGTV's Curb Appeal to ring my doorbell. When I realized they weren't coming, I decided to paint my own porch. I had a lot to contend with: Aside from the old paint being faded, weathered, and rusty, the concrete stairs themselves were full of deep cracks.

AFTER

Kathy Price-Robinson

I picked a mild day with low humidity for this project. You'll get the best results if you paint on a cool, dry day with little wind -- even if you're painting indoors. Heat and humidity can cause paint to blister and dry unevenly.

Above is the result: a cleaner, brighter version of the old porch -- I even had the door repainted by a pro, who also replaced the screen. Doesn't it make a world of difference? Here's how I did it:

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DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

I collected my supplies:

Cleaning bucket

Rags (recycle some old T-shirts and towels)
Scrub brush
Gloves
Concrete patch
Metal brushes
Putty knives
Masking tape
Kilz non-toxic primer
Behr Porch & Floor Paint
Rollers and brush
TSP Cleaner (not shown)

DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

From afar, it looks like just a faded old porch...

DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

...But take a closer look and you'll see that my challenges were many. They included fading and damaged paint, cracked concrete...

DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

...and rust stains. Plenty of 'em.

DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

To get my paint tinted the right color, I peeled some blue paint off the inside of the screen door (it was coming right off anyway) and took it to the paint store. They wound up mixing up a gallon of Behr Porch & Floor Paint in a shade of periwinkle that was almost identical to the old color.

During the project, as you'll see, the screen door also got refurbished, adding to the overall beauty of my newly painted porch.

DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

I was lucky enough to have my gentleman dog Zeus to keep me company. Too bad he couldn't grab a brush and start scrubbing the porch. It really is a dog's life.

DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

So it was up to me to clean and scrape the filthy concrete with scrub brushes and a putty knife. This was by far the most unpleasant part of the project. The buildup of dirt and debris was just too thick for me to completely remove by hand. I suggest sweeping and scrubbing as much as you can by hand, then grabbing a pressure washer to finish the job.

DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

Once I'd removed as much of the debris as I could by hand, i took up my neighbor on her offer to lend me her pressure washer. I pressure washed the steps with a touch of bleach, and the results were miraculous. In fact, the porch looked so good compared to how it looked before that I considered leaving it like this. But I already had all those supplies gathered together, so I kept on going.

DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

I knew I had to patch the cracks in the concrete. Some cracks on the corner were so big that I wondered if the corner might fall off. But the whole thing seemed solid as a rock. After letting it all dry thoroughly after the power wash, I began. I'd never used concrete patch before so let me tell you what it is: concrete. Yep, it's simply premixed wet concrete waiting to be used.

DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

I did the best I could. I'm sure a professional mason would have done a much more artful job, but for my purposes and my personality, it was good enough. I also patched in around the metal porch posts to help prevent water from getting in there and causing even more rust.

DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch

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9 Causes for Leaky Windows

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-07-27T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Getty Images

Renovating? Here are nine common construction errors that can lead to costly window leaks.

There are two kinds of windows, says building guru Joe Lstiburek: Those that leak, and those that will leak. Of course, that's a bit of a pessimistic exaggeration on the part of Lstiburek (pronounced STEE-brook), a principal of Building Science Corp. But it helps drive home the point that choosing, installing, and maintaining windows deserve the full attention of the DIYer -- and there's a lot at stake if the project isn't done right.

One of the main reasons to ensure your windows are watertight is to keep moisture out of the walls. Once inside your walls, moisture can cause rot, mold and pest problems. Keeping water at bay would be easier, of course, if our homes had no openings for doors and windows. But of course houses do have what those in the building trades refer to as penetrations. And wherever there is a penetration, there had better be extra protection. (For best results, consult the manufacturer's instructions.)

The forces that cause otherwise well-made windows to leak fall into three categories: house design, installation, and maintenance.

Turning to the wisdom of industry experts, including Lstiburek's popular building guides, I was able to identify nine of the most common errors that occur during window installations, which can lead to window leaks -- and now you can too. The following photos illustrate the mistakes that are made at each stage of the process:

Train2Rebuild

1: Very complex window layout and no overhangs.
As you can see above, the window openings in this house are many and complex. There are tall windows, arched windows, bay windows. And this would be fine, providing they were installed with all the bells and whistles (flashings, sealants) that prevent water from leaking in. But the sections of wall that have no overhangs may present a problem. Typically we homeowners think the main functions of overhangs are to create shade and drain water off the roof. But they also keep wind-driven rainwater from pushing into the walls through the windows. If you're ever in the position to design a house or an addition to your house, it's wise to include overhangs.

Train2Rebuild

2: Angled fascia.
With the fascia (the horizontal board above the window) angled inward, it doesn't take too much building knowledge to see that water from the roof will be directed right toward this window. The sloppy flashing (extra-strong insulating material between the window and house framing) gives water even more of an opportunity to seep in. Which leads us to...

Train2Rebuild

3: Poorly installed flashing.
To keep water from getting inside your walls and causing all kinds of trouble, there must be a good integration between the window, the building paper (bottom right and left) and the flashing (the stronger material around the arch). In the picture above, the flashing is cobbled together and each break in its surface creates an opportunity for water to enter. In a correct installation, a stretchable flashing is used in one continuous piece, as opposed to patches.

Train2Rebuild

4: Misuse of materials.
In this case, house wrap (building paper) is being used as the window flashing. For superior water protection, the carpenter should have used specially made flashing material. It's stronger and does a better job around windows than the house wrap, which goes behind the home's siding or brick.

Train2Rebuild

5: No flashing at all.
We have to hope this window was just set into place temporarily and will be removed later so that flashing tape can be installed properly. If flashing tape isn't installed the right way, water will get behind whatever kind of siding is put up (and water always gets behind siding) and then drip behind the mounting flange (the outermost edge of this window frame) and into the walls. It's a good idea to use caulking to seal your windows, in addition to flashing tape.

Train2Rebuild

6: Missing sealant, wrong type of nails.
You can see some sealant (caulk) behind the mounting flange on this window, but not enough. There should be a continuous bead of sealant behind the flange, and it should ooze out of any unfilled nail holes. And about those nails: They are obviously not corrosion-resistant (which is required), as you can already see the rust coming on. Plus, they were shot out of a nail gun (as evidenced by the little orange tab on the left nail). According to many experts, this is not a good practice, as window flanges require a precise fastener pressure and that is hard to control with a tool powered by compressed air.

Train2Rebuild

7: Not shingle style.
If you want to know the secret to moisture management it is this: shingle style. That means that the top layers of a surface overlap the bottom layers. That allows gravity to move water down and away from the structure. If you violate this basic principle and put a top layer behind a bottom layer, you're inviting water to come right in. In the photo above, the white building paper above the window should be lapping over the black flashing. It's possible that with super-wide overhangs, and not much rain and not much wind, this penetration may not leak. But bring on some wind-driven rain and you've got trouble.

Kathy Price-Robinson

8: Cracked glazing putty.
This is easily corrected. Just pry it out and redo it. If not, moisture will continue to deteriorate this wood frame.

Kathy Price-Robinson

9: Lack of a paint seal.
Here's something you may not know: When painting the exterior molding that holds a window into place, the paint should slightly overlap onto the glass. This may seem shocking as we typically do everything possible not to get paint on our windows. But the continuous membrane of the paint from the molding onto the glass creates a seal that is actually part of a moisture protection strategy. Professional painters and savvy DIYers already know this.

For more information on proper window installation, consult the industry bible on this topic, known as ASTM E 2112. ASTM stands for American Society for Testing and Materials, but now it is an international standards organization.

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DIY Warrior: How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-06-30T09:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Kathy Price-Robinson

An oscillating tabletop fan that's caked with dirt is more than just an eyesore; it also spreads dust and other particles throughout the home. Here's how to clean a grungy fan.

Like many of us, I have an old tabletop fan that I neglected until one day I couldn't stand the sight of it. Covered in filth, it wasn't doing its job so well anymore, and I could only imagine the kinds of allergens I was breathing in.

Kathy Price-Robinson

This is how filthy the fan got. Somehow I didn't notice until I got it up on a table. Then I was truly grossed out. Between the shedding animals, years of grimy city life and the time spent stored in my garage, this fan was long overdue for a thorough cleaning. Here's how I did it:

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How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

A grungy old fan
Phillips head screwdriver
Flat head screwdriver
A bucket or sink for washing
Scrub brushes
Cleaning soap (I used dish soap)
Old rags
Dishwashing gloves
Ear phones and an iPod with your favorite tunes (optional)

How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

My first step was vacuuming up as much of the dust and animal hair as I could with a narrow-tip nozzle.

How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

I knew I wanted to get to the blade to clean it up and so I'd have to remove the grill. Mine was held together by four clips. three of which moved and one that was stationary. Other fans I've seen have plastic catches that hold the front and back grills together. And some have screws. I swiveled the clips open and removed the front grill.

How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

The inside of the front grill was covered with dirt. I could not have cleaned this while the grill was on the fan.

How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

My next task was removing the big plastic "nut" holding the fan blade onto a threaded shaft. It took me a while to realize that the old ditty "righty tighty, lefty loosey" didn't work here. As you can see above, letters on the nut helpfully indicate that it's righty loosey.

How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

Now I needed to remove the blades from the threaded shaft, but one of them didn't want to come off. After all, it had been there for many long years. But it finally did release with some tugging. There was another large plastic nut underneath that held the rear grill onto the fan body. As I took everything apart, I noted the order so I could put it back together again without any parts left over. With the second nut unloosened, the back grill came off.

How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

At this point, I could have stopped dismantling and started cleaning. But I really wanted to get inside the motor housing as I had seen a lot of hair and dirt in there through the vents on the back. So I got a screwdriver and removed the four small screws. I used a flat head screwdriver to work the four clasps and eventually got the cover off.

How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

Sure enough, around the motor I found a lot of hair and dirt. I used the narrow vacuum nozzle to clean as much as I could, then I used a barely damp cloth to clean as much dirt as I could. I was very careful not to get any extra moisture in or around the motor.

How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

The next part was fun, cleaning the blade in my bucket with a brush. It was simply satisfying.

How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

I did the same thing with the two grills, and the two plastic nuts. Again, domestic bliss.

How to Clean an Oscillating Fan

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3 Game-Changing Green Technologies

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-06-30T08:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Products & Materials, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Green was the theme at the Pacific Coast Building Conference (PCBC) in San Francisco earlier this month. Several new products and technologies displayed at the event are poised to raise the bar for energy-efficient, resource-efficient and water-saving building products and techniques. Here are three of these game-changers:

GE's smart-grid appliances would be controlled through a central device. Photo: CNET

SMART GRID-ENABLED APPLIANCES
In some areas of the country, energy costs more during peak energy-use times of the day. And it costs less during non-peak times of the day, like late at night. The idea of "smart grid" technology is to use our appliances less during peak hours to save money and prevent the need for more power plants.

General Electric's forthcoming smart grid-enabled appliances are smart enough to operate at lower wattage when the energy costs are high, and to put off certain tasks (such as defrosting the freezer) until the rates go down in non-peak hours. All the communication is done between the appliance and the power company. And the system can be overridden by the home's occupants at any time.

GE is already producing and testing smart-grid appliances in pilot programs in Louisville, KY and Abu Dhabi, the capital of United Arab Emirates. Pilot programs are set to begin on Martha's Vineyard and across Texas too.

Smart-grid enabled appliances save energy these ways:

o. The smart-grid refrigerator delays the defrost cycle from occurring during peak hours, when it goes into energy saving mode. According to GE, one participant's energy-efficiency efforts with refrigerator usage over 10 weekdays showed over a 20% reduction of energy used during peak hours.

o. The smart-grid dishwasher can shift the cleaning cycle to off-peak times.

o. Smart-grid washing machines delay washing laundry to off-peak time can also help consumers meet their own energy-efficiency targets.

How well consumers can integrate smart-grid technology into their busy lifestyles remains to be seen. According to GE, having laundry cycles delayed has been "the most challenging" for the participants in the pilot. However, automatically delaying dishwashing to night time hours was caused participants little grief, and changes in refrigerator behavior were seldom noticed.

General Electric

GEOSPRING HYBRID WATER HEATER
This appliance from General Electric performs a neat trick to make hot water: it pulls heat from the air. So instead of using only electricity or gas to heat up water, this "smart" appliance also uses the forces of nature. According to the company, this can save more than $300 a year in water-heating costs (which are third only to heating and cooling in utility costs).

As you may have guessed, this appliance is not cheap. It sells for about $1,600 at Lowe's. On the bright side, this is an ENERGY STAR appliance, which means you could qualify for a rebate of 30% of the cost plus installation. Plus, you could save a lot of money over the estimated 15-year life of the water heater -- not to mention the environmental benefits of using less gas to heat water.

HybridCore Homes

HYBRIDCORE HOMES
You might call these partly pre-fab homes "a little bit of this and a little bit of that." This company premiered its wares at PCBC and will certainly change the way we all consider our building options. Here's how HybridCore Homes are built:

The "core" of the home is built in a factory with very precise quality control compared to what you would find on a typical new-home jobsite. The core includes the "wet rooms," which translate to kitchens and bathrooms in building lingo. The core is then hauled to the jobsite in trucks, lifted off with cranes and set into place on a foundation.

The "dry" rooms -- bedrooms, living area, porches, etc. -- are then built around the core. The result is a unique hybrid of a prefab home, which is completely built in a factory, and a traditional site-built, which is constructed stick by stick out in the field.

Why combine the two? You get the green features of a factory -- where there is very little waste and theoretically very few construction defects -- and the flexibility of more rooms added on site.

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Cost vs. Quality: Cordless Drill/Drivers

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-06-29T09:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Getty Images

What's the difference between a $30 drill and a $300 drill? Our DIYer digs in to find out.

I recently set out to drill through five sheets of Plexiglas for a colorful wall hanging I was making. I borrowed a cordless drill/driver (which functions as both a drill and a power screwdriver) from a contractor I know who readily admits to being a tool snob. His drill was made by Festool, a German manufacturer that many of us American DIYers have never heard of.

But, oh man, that finely-tuned instrument bored into that tough Plexiglas like a hot knife through butter. The sensation of using a superior, precision drill -- with its exquisite balance and power -- was so pleasurable I actually considered starting another wall hanging just so I could do more drilling!

That's the difference between working with a finely engineered and manufactured tool and a cheap and shoddily made one. The former makes you look forward to the work; the latter makes you dread each task.

Of course, you already know the primary downside to the premier tools: enormous price tags. While the least expensive drill/driver you can find at a big box store will run you a slim $30, a Festool cordless drill costs about $350 or more.

The good news: there is a middle ground when it comes to power drills. For instance you can buy Consumer Reports' most highly rated cordless drill/driver (for general, at-home use), the Panasonic Model # EY6432GQKW, for about $200. It's a 15.6-volt model, which is about mid-range.

CORDLESS DRILL/DRIVER GRADES
When you set out to purchase a new cordless drill/driver, be aware there are two general grades for the at-home DIYer (excluding heavy-duty drills designed for industrial-sized jobs):

The Panasonic #EY6432GQKW, a contractor grade tool, retails for about $200. The Black & Decker #SS18SB-2 sells for about $80. Photos: Panasonic; Lowe's

-- Contractor Grade: These are the best quality, more expensive drills; the brands you'll likely find on a professional job site. Manufacturers include Hitachi ($80-$130), Porter Cable ($100-$170), Milwaukee ($190), Panasonic ($185-$200),
Makita ($110-$270), and DeWalt ($140-$300)

-- Consumer Grade: These are lesser quality, less expensive drills designed for household use. Manufacturers include Ryobi ($30-$200), Craftsman ($40-$120), Black & Decker ($60-$110), Skil ($60-$110), Ridgid ($140)

(Note: These are the price ranges of cordless drill/drivers reviewed by Consumer Reports.)

So why the disparity in prices? Consider the differences between the least expensive car you could buy (such as a Hyundai Accent for about $11,000) and a more expensive car (such as a BMW 5-Series sedan starting at $50,000). While the cheaper cars will get you from point A to point B, you usually get there with a lot of road noise, uncomfortable seats, and maybe without the benefit of air conditioning and a sound system. It's the same with luxury tools: they generally work better, feel better and last longer.

SAVE VS. SPLURGE FACTORS

You don't have to buy top-of-line power drill/drivers to experience great performance, but you do have to draw the line at some point if you want to prevent frustration, a short shelf-life, and shoddy results. Consider these factors when deciding what to spend on your cordless drill:

1. Speed
In general, the more speed your tool has, the better the performance. At the very least, the power drill you buy should have high and low speeds. The high speed is for drilling and the low speed is for screwdriving. The speed is measured in rpm (revolutions per minute). A healthy rpm is 1,300 or more. Drills with 800 or less can be frustrating to operate; they may not bore easily through a surface or not tighten a screw properly.

2. Power
The power available for your cordless drill/drivers is measured in volts (V). The least powerful tools on the market are about 6V, while the most powerful are about 24V. My favorite small drill/drivers, which fit nicely in my hand yet pack a lot of juice, are around 9.6V. Mid-power drill/drivers are around 14V, while the beefy models, the kind you might find in the hands of a framing carpenter, would be 18V -- probably too much power for the occasional or novice DIYer. Anything less than 9.6V is likely not worth your money. (Beg to differ? Defend your power drill in the comments below!)

3. Batteries
When it comes to cordless tools, the battery makes all the difference. First, find out how long the batteries hold their charge during the kinds of jobs you will do. If you're planning on hanging a couple of curtain rods, or putting together a picture frame, any model will hold a charge long enough for you to get the job done. But if you're doing a bigger job, like installing rain gutters to a large house, the battery might not go the distance without having to be recharged. Granted, most cordless drills come with two batteries so one can charge while they other is in use. If you plan to do a lot of work with your drill/driver over a long period of time, check out the cost of new batteries. Some high-end tools require batteries that cost way more than $100. Decide whether the convenience of a longer-lasting battery is worth the extra cost. And bear in mind that certain batteries can make cordless tools heavier than equivalent corded tools. For drill/drivers, 3.5 pounds is considered light, and 5 pounds or more is considered heavy.

4. Hand Feel
This may be the least-considered issue by DIYers and others, but it's among the most important. All hands are different, it's fair to say, and some tools that fit and feel perfect in in one person's hand may feel totally awkward in someone else's. Hold any drill/driver you're considering -- with the battery installed, so you'll have a more accurate idea of the tool's weight -- at shoulder level for a minute or so to test it. For women, a smaller tool may feel better. Hand feel is about more than comfort; it can affect the outcome of your project significantly. So, if you need to pay a little more for a drill that feels better in your hands, consider it worth the investment.

5. LED Light
This is a fairly new development in the industry that directs an LED light right where you're drilling or driving a screw. If you've ever crawled inside a cabinet to attach it to the wall, you know how life-changing a light on your drill/driver would be. Depending on your needs, this convenient feature might be worth the extra cash.

Tip: Good places for reading user reviews include the websites for The Home Depot and Lowe's. You can also talk to contractors and craftsmen or peruse contractor chat rooms. Here are a few more ideas:

Remodeling Magazine
Tools of the Trade
Consumer Reports (subscription needed)
Journal of Light Construction Forums These are designed as peer-to-peer forums for construction professionals. As homeowners, we can read contractors' comments about tools, but we cannot post or ask questions. Even with that restriction, this is a valuable resource for getting an insider's view of construction issues, including tools, materials and processes.

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10 Uses for Leftover House Paint

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-06-29T08:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Essential Skills, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Getty Images

Don't let extra paint go to waste. Instead, try one of these 10 clever ways to put old paint to new use.

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, leftover paint is the largest volume material collected by hazardous materials collection sites and costs local governments a lot of money to deal with. The EPA estimates that 10 percent of the house paint purchased each year ends up discarded. There's got to be a better way.

In a perfect world, you would know exact how much paint you're going to need for a particular space, buy that precise amount, and use up every last drop. In the real world, you're often left with extra paint and a dilemma: what to do with it? Should you let it sit in the attic, basement or garage for the next 5 years until it dries up? Take it to your region's hazardous materials collection area? Well, these are the two most common scenarios.

Photo: Sharon Cavanagh (courtesy of Kathy Price-Robinson and Kitty Bartholomew)

Here are at 10 uses for leftover paint. How many of your own ideas can you add to this list?

1. Recycle.
Check Earth 911 for a recycling center in your town that accepts leftover paint, which is then mixed together and resold. The recycling center in my town sells most recycled paint in 5 gallon pails for a fraction of the cost of new paint. If you buy your house paint from such a center, you help the cycle continue.

2. Mix New Paint
You could blend your leftover paint to create a unique color. Make sure they are similar in composition: only mix water-based paint with water-based paint, for instance.

3. Get It Retinted.
If you have a good amount of light-colored paint leftover, you can take it to the paint store and have it retinted to another color that you desire for your house.

Photo: Sharon Cavanagh (courtesy of Kathy Price-Robinson and Kitty Bartholomew)

4. Paint a Floor Cloth.
This project allows you to use several colors that have been used in your house. You start with a length from a roll of painter's canvas from the art store, fold and glue down a hem, strengthen it with several coats of gesso (canvas primer), add your colors in stripes, highlight with paint pens, top with several coats of urethane and you've got your floor cloth. Refresh urethane when it wears off. One bit of trivia: These were once made from old sail cloths. See more instructions here.

5. Use for Base Coat.
If the leftover water-based paint is lighter than the top coat you need for a project, you can use your leftover paint as a base coat -- especially if the existing wall color is dark. (This won't work if the leftover paint is a dark color and the new top coat is a lighter color.)

6. Facebook It.
Let your friends and family know you have leftover paint and see if someone needs it for a project.

7. Freecycle It
Likewise, let your community know you have leftover paint by posting it on a site like Freecycle. Here's how it works: You join a local Freecycle group, then post what you want to get rid of. You'll often get a series of replies and you respond to the one you like and give instructions on how to pick up the paint. You might indicate that you'll leave it on the porch or by the side of the house. Watch an instructional video.

Garden Web

8. Paint Small Projects
You can experiment with painting flower pots or a mailbox with your leftovers. One idea is to mix sand with the paint for a textured look. This is purely experimental, so proceed with caution. But have some fun and get creative! See instructions on painting cheap plastic pots.

Photo: Sharon Cavanagh (courtesy of Kathy Price-Robinson and Kitty Bartholomew)

9. Make Your Own Artwork
By using colors already in your house (the yellow from the kitchen, for instance, and the green from the window trim), your new artwork will already be color-matched just for you. The paintings you see here were made from blank canvases from the art store that got texture from thick gesso and then top coated. You can buy paint tints at the art store to make your own colors.

10. Save It for Touch-Ups
This may be an obvious one, but If you have just a bit of paint left in a large paint can, you can transfer it to a tight-sealing glass jar and save it for touch ups later on. Latex paint is good for 10 years if stored properly in a cool dry place. Earth 911 explains how to store leftover paint properly.

If all these strategies fail, make sure to dispose of the paint safely. Check out the 5-Point Program of the American Coatings Association for dealing with excess paint.

Now, tell us: What are your bright ideas for using leftover paint?

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The Daily Fix: Remove a Broken Key From a Lock

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-06-24T10:36:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

AndiH, Flickr

Forget calling a locksmith. Here's how to fix a broken key on your own.

When a key breaks off inside a lock, two things happen in your body: you get a sinking feeling in your gut, and thoughts of a $200 service fee race through your mind.

But don't go calling a locksmith just yet. Removing a broken key from a lock is a lot simpler than you might think. Your main task will be to insert a thin hooked piece of metal into the key shaft, grab the ragged side of the key, wiggle it out, and pull it with needle-nose pliers.

Self Defense Products

Though you may not want to invest in a set of tools for this task, you could buy a broken key extractor set for less than $30. This consists of several hooked tools to fit the angle of the opening and the shape of the key.

But you could also use a piece of wire or coat hanger with a bent end. The trick is to get a piece of metal that is thin enough to fit in the opening but strong enough to jimmy out the key.

Also, you want to make sure that you're trying to hook onto the side of the key with the ragged side. Some keys are double-sided and so this will not be an issue. But with a key having only one ragged side, it will be futile to try and work with the smooth side.

WD-40

In some cases, the lock mechanism will not let the key get released unless you do a bit of jiggling. And you might find a squirt of lubricant like WD-40 to be helpful.

Another method, in case the key is broken off flush with the opening to the lock, is to use a strong magnet to pull the key out. You may have a magnet on hand. Check your set of screwdrivers and drill bits, as those are often magnetized to hold screws into place.

These methods are typically effective in extracting a broken key. But as one expert put it, if you've tried for a couple of hours and it still won't come out, "it's not meant to be." And it might be time to call in a locksmith. In the end, the lock might need to be replaced.

Here are more tips to consider:

o. Keys often develop cracks long before they actually break off. Check out your keys from time to time to see if cracks are developing, and replace them before the break happens.

o. Be aware of any stiff or difficult locks and keep them lubricated to prevent excess stress to a key. You can buy lock lubricant for this very purpose.

o. Once you get the broken key out (we're thinking positively here), you can take both pieces to the key shop and get a new one made.

These are a few techniques for extracting a broken key. What's your method?

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The Daily Fix: Remove Oil Stains From a Garage Floor

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-06-16T10:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Exteriors & Facades, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces, Outdoors

Gary Dierdorf, Flickr

Oil stains are almost inevitable on garage floors. Here are a few easy methods for soaking up these concrete blemishes.

There are good reasons for getting rid of oil on your garage floor. It not only looks messy, but the oil can get tracked into the house by you, your family members and pets. And if you're striving to create and maintain a healthy home, oil and its toxins are the last thing you want coating your floors, especially if you have small children.

Luckily, you can use these three everyday materials to soak up oil on your garage floor.

Petco

1. Kitty Litter
If you have unused kitty litter on hand, you're in luck. If you need to go out and buy some, even the cheapest brand will do.

To begin, cover the oil or oil stain with a heavy coating of litter. (How much depends on the amount of oil present.) A thick coating takes more; a slight sheen takes less.

Once there is enough material down to absorb the oil, do a dance on top of the area. That's right: Use the bottom of your sturdy shoes (not expensive Italian sandals; old sneakers are more like it!) to ground the litter into the floor.

When you're done, sweep up the litter. The oil stain just be gone -- or at least much more subtle.

Ace Hardware

2. Baking Soda
Is there anything this miracle product cannot do?

For oil stains, wet the area a little first, and then sprinkle it liberally with baking soda. Let it sit for a while while you get a pot of water up to a boil.

Being careful not to burn or scald yourself, pour some hot water onto the baking soda. Let it cool a little, and then scrub the area with a stiff bristle brush (not a wire brush, it will scratch the concrete). Repeat as necessary, and rinse until the oil stain is a dim memory.

The Home Depot

3. Dawn Dishwashing Soap
Dawn dish soap is what many wildlife experts use to remove oil from birds and turtles who fall victim to disasters like the Gulf oil spill. That says a lot about its grease-cutting properties.

For your garage floor, wet the oiled area just a bit, squirt on some Dawn and use a stiff brush to work the soap into the floor. Rinse with water.

Truth be told, there are dozens of other tricks people try to remove oil from concrete. Here are a few:

o. Some people swear by spraying WD-40 lubricant on the floor and then wiping it up.
o. Many commercial chemical products are available.
o. Oven cleaner is said to work. And this does make sense as grease is what oven cleaners clean best.
o. Carburetor cleaner is a product said to remove stains after the oil is lifted.
o. Carpet cleaner and hot water work for some.

But what we really want to know is -- what's your secret for getting oil out of concrete?

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Price Patrol: Swimming Pool Maintenance

Kathy Price-Robinson — 2010-06-01T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Patios, Porches & Decks, Outdoors

Corbis

If you're lucky enough to own a swimming pool, or hope to own one someday, it's a relief to know you can leave the dirty work up to the "pool guy." But times being what they are, cutbacks in the family budget may require taking over the pool duties yourself.

Before launching out to do your own pool cleaning and maintenance (which is a summer-long job, so be ready to commit), you need to know what's involved in terms of time, effort, tools and supplies. If you've got the time and energy, you might find pool cleaning to be a fun and meditative practice rather than a dreaded exercise, this could be a good way to save money.

THE HIRE-IT-OUT METHOD

Weekly pool maintenance typically involves skimming the surface with a net for leaves and debris, brushing and/or vacuuming the pool sides, steps and bottom, cleaning and replacing filters, and adjusting the chemicals. Pool professionals can accomplish these tasks with the speed and grace that come with experience. Balancing a pool's chemical makeup likewise takes experience and finesse.

Depending on your location, once-a-week pool maintenance runs from $75 to $200 a month. Of course, if you live in a Beverly Hills mansion with an enormous pool, spa and waterfall, expect your costs to be higher. And if you have a neglected pool that needs a deep cleaning, expect to pay at least $100 or more per hour.

THE DO-IT-YOURSELF METHOD

When you take on this job yourself, you need "tool up" first. After than, your main expenses will be in pool chemicals and filters. Here are some of the tools you'll need:

(clockwise from top) Pool testing kit; Algae brush; Leaf skimmer; Robot pool vacuum. Photos: Amazon; The Home Depot

Tools and Supplies

Leaf skimmer: This tool gently skims leaves and other debris from the surface of the water. Leaf skimmers are typically made of an aluminum frame and a mesh screen. Prices range from $25 for the homeowner version to $50 and up for the pro model. For such a minimal difference in price, and considering the time you'll spend with this in your hands, the better-quality tool makes sense.

Algae Brush: You'll need one of these to brush, about $30, the algae from the sides, bottom and steps of your pool so it can be swooped up by the filter. The more you physically dislodge the algae, the fewer chemicals you'll need to add to the water.

Robot Pool Vacuum: One of these robot vacuums could make your job a lot easier. Imagine one of these little fellows roaming the bottom and sides of the pool, vacuuming up algae, bacteria, dirt and sand as you sleep. Manufacturers claim you can save wear and tear on your whole-pool filter system, and you save money on electricity and pool chemicals. They cost from $500 to $800.

Pool Test Kit: The quality of water in your pool depends on frequent testing for pH, acid demand, total alkalinity, total chlorine and total bromine. A kit, $20 and up, may include dropper bottles, test strips, instructions and other items.

Chlorine: To control bacteria and algae in your pool, you'll have to master the fine art of chlorine balancing. Too little of this chemical and the algae will flourish. Too much chlorine and your family will suffer. How much you need depends on the size of the pool, the season and the weather. Chlorinating solution costs about $5 a gallon. Chlorinating tablets, which are slow to release their chemicals, cost about $100 for a 40-pound bucket.

Extras

Swimming Pool Paint: There may come a time when you decided to drain the water from your pool, do some repairs, then fill it back up. If you decide to paint the pool bottom during this time, high-quality pool paint will cost from $40 to $50 a gallon. You can change the whole look of your pool with colors, from white and black, to aquamarine, ocean blue and royal blue. Can you imagine a giant mural down there of fish and mermaids?

Pool Lounge: This last item is not exactly part of the maintenance schedule, but is a reward for all your hard work. Cost: $200 to $240.

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