DIY Life

Water-repellent preservative: make your own!

Kelly Smith — Thu, 31 Jul 2008 15:00:00 EST

Filed under: home decor, weekend projects, outdoor, painting

There's a lot of wooden objects that you just don't want to bring back indoors: patio furniture, picnic tables, planters, etc. One thing they have in common is the ability to stand up to wind, heat, and rain. You don't have to buy the expensive stuff, just make your own!

Water-repellent preservative recipe

As with any other time you mix various potentially hazardous or flammable materials, take precautions and ventilate the area properly. Mix together:

2 gal. Mineral spirits, Turpentine, or #1 or #2 fuel oil
5/8 qts. Boiled Linseed Oil
3/16 lb. Paraffin Wax
1 qt. Penta concentrate 10:1
1 to 3 fluid oz Color Pigment / gallon of the above mix

The paraffin must be melted in a double boiler; if you try to use a regular pan, fire is a very real possibility (keep an extinguisher close.) Let your concoction age overnight before applying it and stir it well; the pigments will settle.

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Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: Deck building design

Kelly Smith — Thu, 24 Jul 2008 15:00:00 EST

Filed under: weekend projects, entertaining, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome

With the high price of gasoline, we're all looking for ways to stay home, rather than loading up the car with the kids and heading off to have some summer fun elsewhere. One solution kills two birds with one stone: building a deck will give you a place to hang out and entertain, and add equity to your home.

Of course it's no secret that DIY deck building takes some careful planning, some tools that you probably already have, and lots of elbow grease. What you might not know is the construction details and tricks that the pros use. Read on and you'll be an expert!

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Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: All about siding

Kelly Smith — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 13:00:00 EST

Filed under: fix-it, preventative maintenance, outdoor, remodeling, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome

All homes have exterior surfaces that are designed to protect the home from the elements. There are many different types, but the two general ones are brick and siding. Some homes have a combination of the two.

If you're giving your home a face lift, you have choices. Let's talk about the many types of siding.

Cedar Siding for the Home

Western Red Cedar siding is the type most commonly used. It's a natural product, known for its beauty and durability. For energy efficiency, rigid foam sheathing may be applied prior to installing the siding. If this option is taken, kiln-dried cedar siding should be used, because of its stability.

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Electric drill depth-stop on the fly

Kelly Smith — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 18:00:00 EST

Filed under: fix-it, household hacks, tools, wood working

There are many times when you need to drill a hole only so far -- and no deeper. Either it's a "break-through" issue, or you're doing some production holes that have to be the same equal depth. This is easy enough with a drill press fitted with a dial-in depth stop.

But what to do if you don't have a drill press, or just as bad, the workpiece won't fit in it? This can easily be the case with a tabletop drill press.

You just have to DIY. All you need is your hand-held drill, the proper drill bit, and a roll of tape: electrical tape, duct tape, or masking tape -- your choice.

Simply measure the depth of the desired hole from the tip of your drill bit, and make a couple of wraps of tape around the bit. When your drill bit is spinning, the tape will blur into a perfect line. All you have to do is drill slowly, and back off just as you approach it!

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Solar ovens for green cooking

Kelly Smith — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 18:00:00 EST

Filed under: food, recreation, seasonal, staying green

What a concept! It's summertime and we've already got the sun's heat beating down outside, while the air conditioner struggles to keep up inside. Why make it worse by using the stove and oven? Kill two birds with one stone, by using the sun's heat to do the cooking outside!

This tip for a solar stove comes to us just in time from Craftster's "ladybuggins" -- it'll be almost 100 degrees here, and I'm hankerin' for some chili! Here's what you'll need:

A cooking pot with a lid
An auto windshield sun reflector
A few clothes pins and...
Plenty of sunshine!

First, curl the reflector around into a funnel shape and secure it with the clothes pins. Set it on the ground with the open funnel pointing upwards. Place the pot with the food in it down in the center, and the radiant energy will focus into the center of the parabola to cook the contents. Bon appetit!

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PRS: Bathroom makeover, part 2

Kelly Smith — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 12:00:00 EST

The proper way to prepare a wall for wallpaper (paper, vinyl, bamboo weave, etc.) is to first apply a coat of wallpaper sizing. This serves two purposes. First, it seals the drywall so that the paper will adhere properly. The second purpose is to make the paper easier to remove at a later date.

So, hopefully your walls were properly prepared. Also, if the paper is of the "strippable" variety, your job will be considerably easier. First, see if it will just strip off by hand. If so, more the better!

But if not, read on...

The next step is to loosen the glue. The best way of doing this is to first moisten the surface with a pump-up sprayer filled with warm water. Next, use a sponge and a bucket of warm water to wipe it down, pull off some paper, and then move on to the next section.

Do you still have a stubborn customer? Try this recipe:

3 gallons of hot water
1/4 cup of liquid fabric softener
2 tablespoons of baking soda
1 bottle of wallpaper remover containing reactive enzymes

Next, skim the wall

Depending on how hard it was to get the paper off, chances are that you've got some damaged drywall on your hands. To bring it back into line, you'll need to skim it with drywall compound. In the best of circumstances, you can simply use a wide drywall floating knife.

But what if the damage is more severe? I've worked on walls where chunks of drywall have been pulled off with the paper. In this case, you'll need to use drywall tape as well. Do yourself a favor and use the fiberglass mesh type with adhesive on the back.

Now finish the job

Once the walls are floated to your satisfaction, sand them with drywall sanding screens on a sanding pole, and apply the new finish. If the plan is new wallpaper, just prime and size the walls properly and then hang the new paper.

But what if you want paint? The best approach is to apply texture first. Slick walls present their own class of problems. Every imperfection in the walls will scream out, "Look at me!" Also, slick, smooth walls offer too much of a clinical feel.

After texturing, apply a coat of high-quality latex primer and finish off with the paint of your choice. With a good quality paint such as Behr or Glidden, you'll probably be able to get away with one coat of paint with a few areas to come back to and touch-up.

This part of the remodel should be able to be completed over the course of a weekend and perhaps a night or two after work.

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PRS: Bathroom makeover, part 3

Kelly Smith — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 12:00:00 EST

Giving tile a face lift on a budget

What if you just don't like the color of the ceramic tile in your bath? Is it left over from the psychedelic 60's? Sure, it was way groovy then, but now that the trip's over...

One solution is to demo all the tile, install cement-fiber backer board, install new tile, and then grout it. Whew. Not only is it a lot of work, but we're talking a major expense here. Relax, you have options!

Tile tattoos are an option

Tile tattoos are a fairly recent arrival on the decorating scene. Made of vinyl, they stick to ceramic tile surfaces without using adhesive. They go on quick, in case company is almost on the doorstep.

Do you want to apply them to all your tiles though? Most likely not. They're available in many different colors and patterns so they're best suited to using as decorative accents in patterns. Also, they can be pricey. I just did an Internet check and they're about $14 for each set of 6.

Paint over ceramic tile? You bet!

But don't get your spray cans out and start tagging yet! That's not what this is about, Homie. No, this is about a process that uses a paint from Graham Paint that incorporates ceramic microspheres. Unlike conventional paint pigments which are ragged and irregularly shaped, microspheres are smooth and round, so the paint goes on smoothly.

The first thing to do is clean the surface of the tile with TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) or a similar product. Next, sand the tile to improve adhesion. When you're done with that, either spray or roll Aqua Borne Blockout/Undercoater White.

After that coat is dry, spray or roll Graham's Acrylic Enamel, using a universal tint if you're not looking for a white finish. You can choose either a gloss, satin, or flat sheen. I can't imagine wanting to use flat, but, "Each to his own," said the man who kissed the cow.

This part of the remodel should be able to be completed within one day.

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PRS: Bathroom makeover, part 4

Kelly Smith — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 12:00:00 EST

How about that floor?

If your bathroom floor is tile and you don't like it anymore, you're in the same situation as you were with the tile walls. Demo and replacement is a big deal. Once again, let's look at a cheaper option.

How about covering the floor with a seagrass rug? This is a green option (the lifestyle, not the color.) Seagrass grows in the sea, as you might imagine. And finally, a product you don't have to go to China for! Didn't think there were any of those left did you?

Seagrass is a plant that is harvested and woven into different products such as rugs, insulation, stuffing for pillows and mattresses, and doggie beds. It's flea proof! Seagrass lends itself to the bathroom floor very well because it feels soft under the bare feet and it does extremely well in wet environments. Makes sense, considering where it originates.

Some people make the mistake of substituting rugs made of sisal, made from the agave cactus. Unfortunately, although sisal looks magnificent, it feels prickly underfoot, and it stains when exposed to water.

Give those cabinets a face lift

Cabinets in bathrooms see a lot of wear and tear. They also look dated after a while. But you don't have to chunk the old ones and replace them. This is a situation where a cosmetic wave of the hand is all they need to come to life.

Resurface the vanity

There are several approaches to making-over the vanity surface. First, you can apply a new plastic laminate surface and come in with a material bill under $100. All you need is the laminate, contact cement, a circular saw, a J-roller, and a router.

An alternative is to use the same Graham paint system as described above in the tile update above. Or, if you don't mind the additional maintenance routine (cleaning grout lines, etc.), why not lay tile? There's a multitude of patterns to choose from. Use your imagination.

Cabinet remodeling

The problem with most cabinets, and this is very true of contractor-grade models, is that they totally lack character. Once again, a little bit of cosmetic window-dressing can work wonders. And this doesn't have to be a wallet-buster.

For example, it's easy to nail on some wood trim and molding. This can literally transform the piece. Add to it some new drawer pulls and other matching hardware and your bathroom will be livin' large.

Filling in the blanks

Take a look around your new bathroom. Notice anything missing? There's just a few items left on the list. How about adding a new shower rod and curtain? If you've got a window you'll likely want to add a new window treatment.

It's always a nice touch to change out those utilitarian items like towel racks and toilet paper dispensers. It's really nice if you're a hard-core DIYer with a wood shop full of tools. Nothing says cool like real craftsmanship that doesn't look like it was stamped out with a million other pieces.

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Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: Bathroom makeover

Kelly Smith — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 12:00:00 EST

Filed under: home decor, bathroom, staying green, remodeling, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome

Admit it; you spend a lot of quality time in your bathroom! We all do. Accordingly, it needs to look nice. And like any other part of the castle, the decor looks a little tired and dated after a while. What to do? Give the bathroom a face lift on a budget!

So, in this edition of PRS, we're going to look at some ideas on how to bring this area up to snuff without breaking the bank. Let's look at the walls first.

Lose the boring old wallpaper

That old wallpaper that once looked so stylin' now looks like something the cat dragged in. Out of style, a few stray crayon marks from the toddler days, and the steam-soaked seams are curling up like your mother-in-law's lips when she sneers at you. (I hope she's not reading this!)

(This post has been edited since publication to fix some broken links.)

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Use bronze wool instead of steel wool

Kelly Smith — Thu, 10 Jul 2008 12:00:00 EST

Filed under: fix-it, preventative maintenance, tools, cleaning

Steel wool is great for many DIY projects. It comes in different grades for different applications (#00, #1, #2), and in many cases it's much better than sandpaper. But as great as it is, in some cases there's a much better product -- bronze wool!

Why is it better? For one thing, it doesn't rust like steel will; this is an important consideration on any project that involves moisture. For the same reason, you can store it longer in a humid environment. Consider these applications:

Gun maintenance: It'll take off minor rust, but not the bluing.
Any boat maintenance: it doesn't rust, so it won't discolor wood -- like that expensive teak.
More suggestions after the break....

Continue reading Use bronze wool instead of steel wool

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Make an "Alvin" vacuum sealer

Kelly Smith — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 10:00:00 EST

Filed under: food, in the kitchen, organization and storage, health

We've all seen those vacuum sealers on the infomercials. Sure, they might be handy, but at those prices you might as well just buy the minimum amount of food and not worry about food storage. But thanks to the DIY imagination of Eric Foreman, you can make your own vacuum sealer for about $30!

The parts list is pretty simple:

A brake bleeder / vacuum pump
A Tila FoodSaver Mason Jar adapter
MasonJars with lids

Obviously this won't allow you to leave out spoilable foods, but it's a great way to keep other things fresh. Use it to store things like tea, your expensive coffee beans, pasta, and bulk spices. And if the survivalists are right, this will turn out to be a very handy contraption to have!

[Via instructables.com]

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Are straight razors making a comeback?

Kelly Smith — Fri, 04 Jul 2008 12:00:00 EST

Filed under: recalls and safety, staying green, health

Some would say so. I became more convinced after I read an article expounding on 10 reasons to shave with a straight razor. The reason I was so interested is that I've been a cup 'n brush man since I was 17 years old. I won't say how many years it's been since then. I was forced to use the foaming goo in A.F. boot camp and hated it.

The 10 reasons are compelling:

Save money. I can relate; I use a Merkur safety razor. You know, the double-edged blade like gramps used? About a buck and a half for 10 blades.
Go green. It's true, why keep throwing away all that plastic?
Be a macho man. Or babe.
Pamper yourself. True, like using real shaving soap, you'll get a real shave, not a scrape job.
Get in on the ground floor. Like the man said, straight razors are on the cusp of cool!
Embrace danger. Are you bold enough after watching Sweeney Todd? Where's that jugular again?
Make new friends. Hey, if people can get together to make scrapbooks, they can get together to shave.
Take up a new hobby. Shaving as a hobby? Why not?
Learn a new trade. What, you've never fantasized about living the exciting life of a barber? Liar.
And (drum roll), channel your Grizzly Adams. Don't try to tackle that mane with a disposable razor!

[Via onlyknives]

(This post has been edited since publication to correct a photo error.)

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Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: Alternative residential energy

Kelly Smith — Thu, 03 Jul 2008 12:00:00 EST

Filed under: electrical, staying green, lighting, remodeling, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome

So you're fed up with your monthly gas and electricity bill? Or you're building a new abode and you want to get off on the right track with controlling how much utility power you have to buy from an outside producer?

What you need are alternate sources of energy. There are several ways to do this and you're free to mix and match in order to reach your energy freedom goals. No, I'm not recommending that you do any strip mining for coal in your backyard or install a nuclear reactor. (Might be a good idea, though.)

Choices for alternative energy sources

When it comes to providing some or all of your own energy sources, you have options, and the viability of these will vary according to where you live. Live out on the open plains? You're a good candidate for windmill type power (wind energy).

Continue reading Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: Alternative residential energy

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Bicycle repair brain trust

Kelly Smith — Tue, 01 Jul 2008 18:00:00 EST

Filed under: cars and transportation, fix-it, preventative maintenance, recreation, staying green

Bikes. They're everywhere. Mountain bikes and road bike sales started trending up about a decade ago (thanks, Lance), and recently sales got an additional bump because of rising gas prices. Do you own one? If so, you're familiar with the expensive pricing structure at the bike shop.

You really should get a complete tune-up on a yearly basis. And if you do the work yourself, you can save bucks big time. This used to be a case of reading confusing manuals with substandard illustrations. But no more! At this excellent bike repair online resource, you can do it all.

The instructions are clearly written and the photos are well-done and informative. So get out the tool box, surf over there, and get started! This is a great time to replace a freewheel, adjust your brake calipers, or adjust a headset!

[via Lifehacker]

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Grill cleaning 101

Kelly Smith — Tue, 01 Jul 2008 15:00:00 EST

Filed under: food, preventative maintenance, recreation, seasonal, entertaining, cleaning

So, the Fourth of July is upon us. That means fireworks, beer, grilling, beer, and oh, did I mention beer? But I digress. Let's talk grill hygiene. What's tackier than a grill with chunks of last week's burgers on it? Cleaning the grill doesn't have to be a big chore.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so a video must be worth, what, a million? The creative folks at Howcast have created a great grill-cleaning how-to video that makes the job a piece of cake. You'll need aluminum foil, a grill scraper, and a bit of patience.

There's also a great tip on making future clean-ups easier -- spraying the grill with non-stick spray while it's still warm. It reminds me of seasoning my cast iron pan. But that's a tip for another blog post!

[Via Howcast.com]

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Ceramic transfers made easy

Kelly Smith — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 16:00:00 EST

Filed under: food, home decor, in the kitchen, weekend projects, art, crafts, kitchen, gifts

How would you like to personalize and dress up those drab ceramic plates, cups, and saucers? It's not only possible, it's much easier than you might think. Handcrafting guru Heather has posted this excellent tutorial on doing your own ceramic transfers.

The first thing you'll need of course, are the ceramic pieces. Next, a screen printer will be able to put your graphics on transfer paper for you. The key here is using the right vitrifying ink. Then just cut them out, soak them to remove the backing, and arrange them on the ceramic pieces.

Finally, the pieces just need to be glazed and cooked in the kiln. Pottery studios are readily available in most places for crafty folks and even for children's parties. But can you eat off them, you ask? Certainly you can! What a great idea for a birthday or anniversary.

[Via whipup.net]

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Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: Install tile in your bath or kitchen

Kelly Smith — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 14:00:00 EST

Filed under: fix-it, home decor, in the kitchen, weekend projects, bathroom, framing and drywall, tools, remodeling, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome

Have you been thinking about a bathroom or kitchen remodeling project? Good choice! These two rooms get used a lot -- they're both functional and intimate. And both of them feel right at home with tile, including ceramic, porcelain, and good, old-fashioned stone.

Begin your remodel with a demo

Some folks consider the demolition phase of the remodel to be the most fun. After all, it's an opportunity for a bit of justifiable violence. Be careful though; don't cut into any plumbing pipes or electrical circuits. If your home has a few years on it, the walls in your bathroom are most likely regular drywall or greenboard (water-resistant drywall.

Greenboard used to be the industry standard as the base for installing tile on, but now it's frowned upon. You'll want to get rid of it and replace it with backer board. This is a cement-fiber material that offers not only water-resistance, but also incredible stability.

Continue reading Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: Install tile in your bath or kitchen

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PRS: Install tile in your bath or kitchen, part 2

Kelly Smith — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 14:00:00 EST

Prepare the wall

This applies mainly to tiling in a bath. For a backsplash in the kitchen, you can work directly from the existing drywall.

The precursor of cement backer board was cement stucco that was applied over wire mesh (lathe). When it became obvious that this type of application stood the test of time better than other methods, cement backer board was developed to make installation easier, cleaner, and faster than stucco.

Keep in mind that the backer board is quite rigid. You'll want it to be as plumb as possible to look good once the tile is on.

What does this mean? You might have to do some shimming if your studs are warped. I've even used a block plane to take off the high part of a slightly warped stud. You can use a plumb bob from the top plate to the bottom plate to determine if you have issues to deal with.

Install your backer board

Now that you've got off all the green board or drywall, you're ready to install the backer board. The easiest way to do this is to screw it right to the wooden studs. You can also nail it up if you use hot-dipped ring-shank nails.

It's always a good idea to hang 15-pound roofing felt on the studs as a moisture barrier before installing the backer board.

To cut the backer board, use a circular saw blade made for this purpose. And be ready for some monumental dust. Note: wear a dust mask! Some brands of backer board have lines on the surface so you can score it with a utility knife and snap it.

Some installers recommend leaving an eighth of an inch between adjacent boards and filling the gap with silicone caulk. Why? I'm not sure. But do leave the gap between the tub and board and caulk it.

After hanging the backer board, get out your drywall tools and tape the joints using fiberglass tape and tile adhesive. This will ensure that you have a flat surface to mount your tile on and further waterproof the whole assembly.

Lay out the tile

Just like any other DIY project, preparation and layout are the keys to a professional-looking outcome. You'll strike control lines to be sure that your tile starts off on the right foot. Then, just keep building from there. In most shower enclosures and on kitchen back splashes, you'll be safe starting off and ending up with full tiles on the vertical run, finished off with a half-bullnose tile.

For the lateral, or horizontal run, you can start off with a full tile on either the inside or outside and work from there. As an alternate approach, your tiles can alternate, as bricks do -- start with a full tile on one course, start with a half tile on the subsequent course, etc.

If you're tiling a counter top back splash in the kitchen, you can use specialty rounded tiles for the bottom course.

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PRS: Install tile in your bath or kitchen, part 3

Kelly Smith — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 14:00:00 EST

A layout alternative

As an alternative, an interesting and attractive layout is to install the tiles on a diagonal. In other words, rotated ninety degrees for the diamond look. This looks distinctive with rectangular border tiles of a contrasting color.

Trowel it on and stick it up!

You'll need:

A notched trowel
A bag full of tile spacers (they look like little rubbery "x'"s)
A wet tile saw
A pair of tile nippers

You've got choices when it comes to your adhesive medium. Your tile manufacturer will most likely give a recommendation and you should follow that in order to be good with any warranty offered. Most likely, you'll be using a Portland cement paste, a latex or dry set Portland cement mortar, epoxy mortar, or an organic adhesive.

The best way to apply the adhesive is to use the flat side of your trowel to slather it on and then use the notched side to comb it out to an even depth. Stick on your first course of tiles, putting two tile spacers between each two adjacent tiles.

When you set a tile, tap it lightly with your mallet. Use your wet saw to make any straight cuts on your tiles, For cutting irregular edges, use the tile nippers. When done, let it set up before grouting; I usually give it overnight at a minimum.

Time to grout

For grouting the tile, this is what you'll need:

A grouting sponge
A grouting float
A bucket of water
A paddle mixer
An electric drill

Grout comes in a variety of colors. Darker colors are easier to maintain a clean appearance. It's also available "sanded" and "unsanded." Basically, sanded has a grainier feel. Your preference on both color and texture. Although you can find grout pre-mixed, for a job of any size you'll want to buy powder and mix it with a paddle mixer.

Don't buy any grout that's labeled fast-drying. This might be fine for small jobs but you don't want to feel rushed.

First, remove the spacers. These can be reused so don't throw them away. Next, use your float to press the grout into the grout lines between the tiles. Work in a semi-circular motion and make several passes to ensure that you leave no air pockets.

Shape the grout lines

Now use your wet sponge to remove excess grout from the surface of the tile and to "shape" the grout lines. This means not removing too much, just enough to leave it slightly concave between the tiles. This step takes a bit of practice but don't despair, you've got a bit of working time.

There will be a bit of a glaze on the surface of the tiles; don't worry about that at this point. Once the grouting is complete, let it set to cure. Again, I usually give it overnight.

Don't forget the most important item: the sealer

Now you're almost done. You'll need to finish up the job by wiping the grout glaze off the tile surface with cheesecloth and applying a grout sealer to the grout lines. You have a choice with your grout sealer just as you did with the grout itself.

For a "wet look", buy a topical sealer. This will provide a protective coating on the surface of the grout. Otherwise, use a penetrating sealer. This variety will soak into the grout to seal it but will leave it with a natural look.

The manufacturer will have specific instructions for application. The two most common methods are to wipe it on the entire surface and then buff it off the tile, or to just follow the lines between the tile. Either way, once it's dried, come back and put another coat on. A little work now will save you a lot of headache later!

Now it's complete. You're free to take a shower or wash the dishes!

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Reel lawn mowers: what to look for

Kelly Smith — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 16:00:00 EST

Filed under: seasonal, landscaping, outdoor, recalls and safety, staying green, tools

Yeah, you haven't used a reel lawn mower since grandpa threatened to take you out behind the wood pile and give you a whuppin' if you didn't make with the chores, right? Well, guess what? Reel mowers are making a comeback due to high gas prices and that vacant seat on the green movement band wagon.

Today's push reel mowers have kept up with the times. The blades are better quality steel, the units don't weigh as much, and with amenities like sealed bearings, maintenance is minimal. They are also safer than motorized mowers -- no debris projectiles to dodge!

Shopping with criteria in mind

So, what should you look for when you make the choice to DIY your lawn and go green at the same time? Consider these ideas:

What height do you want your grass to maintain? Different models have different max height settings. The Scotts Classic mower will go as high as 3 inches.
How big is your lawn? The larger it is, the wider you'll want the cutting swath to be.
How much maintenance are you willing to put up with? There's not much involved in any case other than blade adjustment and sharpening. Higher-grade models like the Brill Razorcut 38 claims to not need a sharpening for 8, count 'em, 8 years! Cheaper models are in the every year/every other year range.
Price. The price of these mowers varies widely, from the $80 ballpark up to $300. Usually, like fancy plumbing fixtures, you get what you pay for, so shop around.

Ready to go green? Ready for a good workout? Ready for some quiet lawn work? Start shopping and get to mowing!

[Via www.icanfixupmyhome.com]

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