DIY Life

Water-Repellent Wood Preservative: Make Your Own!

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-31T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: home decor, weekend projects, outdoor, painting, Patios, Porches & Decks, Outdoors

There's a lot of wooden objects that you just don't want to bring back indoors: patio furniture, picnic tables, planters, etc. One thing they have in common is the ability to stand up to wind, heat, and rain. You don't have to buy the expensive stuff, just make your own!

Water-repellent preservative recipe

As with any other time you mix various potentially hazardous or flammable materials, take precautions and ventilate the area properly. Mix together:

2 gal. Mineral spirits, Turpentine, or #1 or #2 fuel oil
5/8 qts. Boiled Linseed Oil
3/16 lb. Paraffin Wax
1 qt. Penta concentrate 10:1
1 to 3 fluid oz Color Pigment / gallon of the above mix

The paraffin must be melted in a double boiler; if you try to use a regular pan, fire is a very real possibility (keep an extinguisher close.) Let your concoction age overnight before applying it and stir it well; the pigments will settle.

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Designing Your DIY Deck

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-24T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: weekend projects, entertaining, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome, Patios, Porches & Decks, Outdoors

With the high price of gasoline, we're all looking for ways to stay home, rather than loading up the car with the kids and heading off to have some summer fun elsewhere. One solution kills two birds with one stone: building a deck will give you a place to hang out and entertain, and add equity to your home.

Of course it's no secret that DIY deck building takes some careful planning, some tools that you probably already have, and lots of elbow grease. What you might not know is the construction details and tricks that the pros use. Read on and you'll be an expert!

Primary considerations in deck design

As I mentioned before, prior planning before putting shovel to soil is the key to getting the deck that you and your family will really love and use frequently. As you slide into this stage of the project there are a few important things to keep in mind.

Building permits. Yes, this one is one of the biggies. Violate this one and you can really get into deep doo-doo with the city authorities and end up with some monster non-fans. Never miff a city construction inspector!
City easements. Once again, this is Big Brother getting into your business. Usually, city easement on your property is restricted to the area adjacent to the street or sidewalk at the front of your property line, but why take a chance? Check it out.
Zoning ordinances. These details might tell you what percentage of your property may contain an outdoor structure. In most cases this is not an issue.
Your neighborhood association. This one is my pet peeve; I think they ought to be strictly opt-in organizations; they tend to take on a life of their own. As with city inspectors, miff them and spend the remainder of your days in Hades.

Location, location, location

It's not just a rule with restaurants. Although most homeowners do have a bit of latitude to work with, the importance of location involves more than Feng Shui. What's important to consider for your deck are things like sunshine. When will you use it?

If breakfast is your primary concern, you're going to want subdued morning light, not stark rays in the old eyeballs. If afternoon grilling is your thing, you'll want the prevailing breeze not blowing smoke into the back door.

Another concern is privacy. Do you have inquisitive neighbors? You can either orient the deck a certain way or plan to put up a vine-wound trellis. Most often, the home's back door is the primary entry point for the deck, so that's a huge consideration. The deck layout might have to use that for a starting point.

Sketch it out on paper

Once you've got a good idea, sketch it out with pencil and paper. You'll get ideas on more embellishments as you do this. Add railings, box seats, maybe a different level. Here are a few things you need to include on the sketch:

Where's your backyard faucet?
Where's your buried underground utilities? This is very important and you might have to call the company out to locate them. First, you don't want to cut through anything like a gas line when digging post holes. Secondly, you might want to decide early on how to orient the planks so you can pull them off to service a line.
Sketch in any shrubbery and trees in the area. Why not incorporate them in your design?
Make note of any view you want to take advantage of. Are you going to hang out on the deck and take in the sunset? Sunbathe?

And where's that hot tub going to be? This is where the nosy neighbor factors in.

Conventional deck design types

There are several basic deck design concepts. For simplicity's sake, you can just put one of these in. But wouldn't it be a whole lot more fun to mix and match? Try these basic ones on for size:

The hot tub deck. This is what a lot of folks go for. What a way to relax under the stars, or...
Multi-level deck. This design is eye-pleasing and especially good for entertaining. A step up of six inches or so and some tiki lamps around the sides, and it's party time!
The basic deck. This is as simple as it gets. Usually either square or rectangular, it's an entry-level deck that leaves the option for later expansion open when more discretionary funds are available.
Basic deck with corner cutoffs. This is an enhanced version of the basic deck. The two outer corners are cut off at a forty five degree angle. Steps down to the lawn at one or two cutoffs make for easy access to the grounds.
Wraparound deck. Remember when we talked about the sun? A wraparound deck addresses this issue by forming an "L" around the rear and side of the home.
Freestanding deck. This deck can be one or a combination of any of the previous basic designs. Freestanding simply means that it sits apart from the house and not attached to it with a ledger board.

All of this should give you an idea of how to actually find out what you want from your deck before you jump in with your checkbook (or debit card) in hand. Chew on this for a while. Next week we'll start talking about the actual construction phase.

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Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: All about siding

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-18T13:00:00 00:00

Filed under: fix-it, preventative maintenance, outdoor, remodeling, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome

All homes have exterior surfaces that are designed to protect the home from the elements. There are many different types, but the two general ones are brick and siding. Some homes have a combination of the two.

If you're giving your home a face lift, you have choices. Let's talk about the many types of siding.

Cedar Siding for the Home

Western Red Cedar siding is the type most commonly used. It's a natural product, known for its beauty and durability. For energy efficiency, rigid foam sheathing may be applied prior to installing the siding. If this option is taken, kiln-dried cedar siding should be used, because of its stability.

Western Red Cedar siding can be finished in many attractive ways. To achieve that sought-after natural wood look, use a penetrating stain, or your choice of a clear repellent finish. Varnish and shellac used to be popular, but have fallen out of favor. Newer products have a much longer life span.

An alternative finish for cedar

Painting cedar siding is an acceptable alternative to a natural-looking finish. Before you paint the siding, you should coat it with a water-repellent preservative. Next, prime it with a stain-blocking primer. Finally, it needs to be finished with a quality, 100 percent acrylic paint.

Cleaning cedar siding

To clean cedar siding, a pressure washer may be used, but only at a very low pressure. A better method is to use a soft-bristle brush with water, with a small amount of dish detergent mixed in. If mildew is present, mix in a bit of mildew-cide.

Plywood siding

Plywood siding is very popular among contractors. It's often used on homes that are part brick and part siding. Compared to other types it can be quite inexpensive. For best results, it needs to be properly primed and painted. Unfortunately, many contractors don't use a good grade of paint, so the job has to be re-done after a couple of years.

One issue is that, being wood, it expands and contracts naturally with the weather. But all too often, the rate of expansion and contraction is different than that of the material that it's nailed to. This can cause nails to work their way out. A little spot-checking every now and then solves this issue.

Composition board

This is probably the worst choice, in my opinion -- perhaps the cheapest, but the worst. It will expand with moisture like wood will, but it won't return to its original dimensions when it dries out.

Because of this, it's important to keep moisture away from it. It must be kept well-sealed with paint. Don't let the lawn sprinkler go crazy and splatter the siding. And when installing it, keep it as far off the ground as possible: ideally somewhere from six to eight inches.

Clapboard siding

Clapboard siding is pretty simple: it's just long wood planks that overlap each other. This concept can be simple and plain, or you can take it further with different patterns. Some of these are shiplap, tongue and groove, bevel, channel lap, Dutch lap, and one of my favorites, log cabin!

Like cedar, you can go with the natural look or paint it. Log cabin, of course, wants to be stained. Since these are planks, it's a fairly simple job to repair in the future, as long as you can find a pattern match.

Can't find one? You can most likely craft your own with a table saw, planer, and router. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

Vinyl siding

Vinyl siding has a lot going for it. It's available in a wide array of colors. Many manufacturers guarantee that it will never need repainting. It's usually recommended to give it a good washing once a year. This type of siding does a good job guarding against the elements; also, it doesn't have the porous characteristics that wood does. This makes it a logical option whenever humidity is an issue.

Vinyl siding can raise the value of your home, since it provides a rigid and durable surface. Where rigidity is concerned, the thicker the vinyl, the better. It will resist the elements more effectively... as well as maverick baseballs!

Matching soffit stock and window trim are almost always available, so you can be sure of an exact match with your siding color.

Aluminum siding -- vinyl's cousin

Aluminum siding is very similar to vinyl. It installs easily and has plenty of durability. One drawback is that, since it's a metal, it's often the victim of denting or dimpling. The good news is that it comes in planks, sort of like the old style shiplap siding: if you get a bit of damage, it's an easy DIY fix.

Caring for aluminum siding

Cleaning aluminum siding is a job for the pressure washer -- just watch out for those windows!

Unlike vinyl, you will have to repaint aluminum at some point.

Fiber cement -- the new kid on the block

Fiber cement siding is more durable than either wood or vinyl. When it's painted -- it usually comes pre-primed, saving a step -- it's remarkably similar to wood siding, since it's formed with the grain contour. You'll usually hear it called Hardiboard or Hardiplank siding. (Hardie is the dominant manufacturer of fiber cement products.)

What makes it so desirable? You can forget having issues with termites or rotting. As I mentioned above, it's pre-primed, so painting it is all the finish you need. A high-quality acrylic paint is recommended.

Caring for fiber cement siding

Caring for fiber cement siding is rather straightforward. You can approach cleaning it the same way as cedar: a pressure washer is fine so long as you don't blast the paint off. Of course, this doesn't matter if you're planning to slap on a new coat of paint anyway.

When you choose siding for your home, approach it this way: look at budget, appearance, and how much maintenance you're willing to put into it. Those criteria will help you choose the right product for you.

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Electric drill depth-stop on the fly

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-15T18:00:00 00:00

Filed under: fix-it, household hacks, Tools, wood working, Know-How

There are many times when you need to drill a hole only so far -- and no deeper. Either it's a "break-through" issue, or you're doing some production holes that have to be the same equal depth. This is easy enough with a drill press fitted with a dial-in depth stop.

But what to do if you don't have a drill press, or just as bad, the workpiece won't fit in it? This can easily be the case with a tabletop drill press.

You just have to DIY. All you need is your hand-held drill, the proper drill bit, and a roll of tape: electrical tape, duct tape, or masking tape -- your choice.

Simply measure the depth of the desired hole from the tip of your drill bit, and make a couple of wraps of tape around the bit. When your drill bit is spinning, the tape will blur into a perfect line. All you have to do is drill slowly, and back off just as you approach it!

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Solar ovens for green cooking

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-14T18:00:00 00:00

Filed under: food, recreation, seasonal, staying green

What a concept! It's summertime and we've already got the sun's heat beating down outside, while the air conditioner struggles to keep up inside. Why make it worse by using the stove and oven? Kill two birds with one stone, by using the sun's heat to do the cooking outside!

This tip for a solar stove comes to us just in time from Craftster's "ladybuggins" -- it'll be almost 100 degrees here, and I'm hankerin' for some chili! Here's what you'll need:

A cooking pot with a lid
An auto windshield sun reflector
A few clothes pins and...
Plenty of sunshine!

First, curl the reflector around into a funnel shape and secure it with the clothes pins. Set it on the ground with the open funnel pointing upwards. Place the pot with the food in it down in the center, and the radiant energy will focus into the center of the parabola to cook the contents. Bon appetit!

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PRS: Bathroom makeover, part 4

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-11T12:00:00 00:00

How about that floor?

If your bathroom floor is tile and you don't like it anymore, you're in the same situation as you were with the tile walls. Demo and replacement is a big deal. Once again, let's look at a cheaper option.

How about covering the floor with a seagrass rug? This is a green option (the lifestyle, not the color.) Seagrass grows in the sea, as you might imagine. And finally, a product you don't have to go to China for! Didn't think there were any of those left did you?

Seagrass is a plant that is harvested and woven into different products such as rugs, insulation, stuffing for pillows and mattresses, and doggie beds. It's flea proof! Seagrass lends itself to the bathroom floor very well because it feels soft under the bare feet and it does extremely well in wet environments. Makes sense, considering where it originates.

Some people make the mistake of substituting rugs made of sisal, made from the agave cactus. Unfortunately, although sisal looks magnificent, it feels prickly underfoot, and it stains when exposed to water.

Give those cabinets a face lift

Cabinets in bathrooms see a lot of wear and tear. They also look dated after a while. But you don't have to chunk the old ones and replace them. This is a situation where a cosmetic wave of the hand is all they need to come to life.

Resurface the vanity

There are several approaches to making-over the vanity surface. First, you can apply a new plastic laminate surface and come in with a material bill under $100. All you need is the laminate, contact cement, a circular saw, a J-roller, and a router.

An alternative is to use the same Graham paint system as described above in the tile update above. Or, if you don't mind the additional maintenance routine (cleaning grout lines, etc.), why not lay tile? There's a multitude of patterns to choose from. Use your imagination.

Cabinet remodeling

The problem with most cabinets, and this is very true of contractor-grade models, is that they totally lack character. Once again, a little bit of cosmetic window-dressing can work wonders. And this doesn't have to be a wallet-buster.

For example, it's easy to nail on some wood trim and molding. This can literally transform the piece. Add to it some new drawer pulls and other matching hardware and your bathroom will be livin' large.

Filling in the blanks

Take a look around your new bathroom. Notice anything missing? There's just a few items left on the list. How about adding a new shower rod and curtain? If you've got a window you'll likely want to add a new window treatment.

It's always a nice touch to change out those utilitarian items like towel racks and toilet paper dispensers. It's really nice if you're a hard-core DIYer with a wood shop full of tools. Nothing says cool like real craftsmanship that doesn't look like it was stamped out with a million other pieces.

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PRS: Bathroom makeover, part 3

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-11T12:00:00 00:00

Giving tile a face lift on a budget

What if you just don't like the color of the ceramic tile in your bath? Is it left over from the psychedelic 60's? Sure, it was way groovy then, but now that the trip's over...

One solution is to demo all the tile, install cement-fiber backer board, install new tile, and then grout it. Whew. Not only is it a lot of work, but we're talking a major expense here. Relax, you have options!

Tile tattoos are an option

Tile tattoos are a fairly recent arrival on the decorating scene. Made of vinyl, they stick to ceramic tile surfaces without using adhesive. They go on quick, in case company is almost on the doorstep.

Do you want to apply them to all your tiles though? Most likely not. They're available in many different colors and patterns so they're best suited to using as decorative accents in patterns. Also, they can be pricey. I just did an Internet check and they're about $14 for each set of 6.

Paint over ceramic tile? You bet!

But don't get your spray cans out and start tagging yet! That's not what this is about, Homie. No, this is about a process that uses a paint from Graham Paint that incorporates ceramic microspheres. Unlike conventional paint pigments which are ragged and irregularly shaped, microspheres are smooth and round, so the paint goes on smoothly.

The first thing to do is clean the surface of the tile with TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) or a similar product. Next, sand the tile to improve adhesion. When you're done with that, either spray or roll Aqua Borne Blockout/Undercoater White.

After that coat is dry, spray or roll Graham's Acrylic Enamel, using a universal tint if you're not looking for a white finish. You can choose either a gloss, satin, or flat sheen. I can't imagine wanting to use flat, but, "Each to his own," said the man who kissed the cow.

This part of the remodel should be able to be completed within one day.

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PRS: Bathroom makeover, part 2

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-11T12:00:00 00:00

The proper way to prepare a wall for wallpaper (paper, vinyl, bamboo weave, etc.) is to first apply a coat of wallpaper sizing. This serves two purposes. First, it seals the drywall so that the paper will adhere properly. The second purpose is to make the paper easier to remove at a later date.

So, hopefully your walls were properly prepared. Also, if the paper is of the "strippable" variety, your job will be considerably easier. First, see if it will just strip off by hand. If so, more the better!

But if not, read on...

The next step is to loosen the glue. The best way of doing this is to first moisten the surface with a pump-up sprayer filled with warm water. Next, use a sponge and a bucket of warm water to wipe it down, pull off some paper, and then move on to the next section.

Do you still have a stubborn customer? Try this recipe:

3 gallons of hot water
1/4 cup of liquid fabric softener
2 tablespoons of baking soda
1 bottle of wallpaper remover containing reactive enzymes

Next, skim the wall

Depending on how hard it was to get the paper off, chances are that you've got some damaged drywall on your hands. To bring it back into line, you'll need to skim it with drywall compound. In the best of circumstances, you can simply use a wide drywall floating knife.

But what if the damage is more severe? I've worked on walls where chunks of drywall have been pulled off with the paper. In this case, you'll need to use drywall tape as well. Do yourself a favor and use the fiberglass mesh type with adhesive on the back.

Now finish the job

Once the walls are floated to your satisfaction, sand them with drywall sanding screens on a sanding pole, and apply the new finish. If the plan is new wallpaper, just prime and size the walls properly and then hang the new paper.

But what if you want paint? The best approach is to apply texture first. Slick walls present their own class of problems. Every imperfection in the walls will scream out, "Look at me!" Also, slick, smooth walls offer too much of a clinical feel.

After texturing, apply a coat of high-quality latex primer and finish off with the paint of your choice. With a good quality paint such as Behr or Glidden, you'll probably be able to get away with one coat of paint with a few areas to come back to and touch-up.

This part of the remodel should be able to be completed over the course of a weekend and perhaps a night or two after work.

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Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: Bathroom makeover

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-11T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: home decor, bathroom, staying green, remodeling, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome

Admit it; you spend a lot of quality time in your bathroom! We all do. Accordingly, it needs to look nice. And like any other part of the castle, the decor looks a little tired and dated after a while. What to do? Give the bathroom a face lift on a budget!

So, in this edition of PRS, we're going to look at some ideas on how to bring this area up to snuff without breaking the bank. Let's look at the walls first.

Lose the boring old wallpaper

That old wallpaper that once looked so stylin' now looks like something the cat dragged in. Out of style, a few stray crayon marks from the toddler days, and the steam-soaked seams are curling up like your mother-in-law's lips when she sneers at you. (I hope she's not reading this!)

(This post has been edited since publication to fix some broken links.)

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Use bronze wool instead of steel wool

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-10T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: fix-it, preventative maintenance, Tools, cleaning

Steel wool is great for many DIY projects. It comes in different grades for different applications (#00, #1, #2), and in many cases it's much better than sandpaper. But as great as it is, in some cases there's a much better product -- bronze wool!

Why is it better? For one thing, it doesn't rust like steel will; this is an important consideration on any project that involves moisture. For the same reason, you can store it longer in a humid environment. Consider these applications:

Gun maintenance: It'll take off minor rust, but not the bluing.
Any boat maintenance: it doesn't rust, so it won't discolor wood -- like that expensive teak.
More suggestions after the break....

Packing around any open spots where your dryer exhausts from your garage: Mice can't chew through it and invade your home.
Spiffing-up aluminum outdoor furniture: It's not as "scratchy" as steel wool.
Cleaning stainless steel: Contrary to popular opinion, stainless steel is oxidation-resistant, not oxidation-proof.
Cleaning anything where magnetism is an issue: Bronze doesn't have the magnetic properties of steel. (This isn't to say you should clean old floppy discs with it, though.)

You can expect to pay a bit more for bronze than for steel, but for many jobs, it's the best way to go!

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Make an "Alvin" vacuum sealer

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-08T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: food, in the kitchen, organization and storage, health

We've all seen those vacuum sealers on the infomercials. Sure, they might be handy, but at those prices you might as well just buy the minimum amount of food and not worry about food storage. But thanks to the DIY imagination of Eric Foreman, you can make your own vacuum sealer for about $30!

The parts list is pretty simple:

A brake bleeder / vacuum pump
A Tila FoodSaver Mason Jar adapter
MasonJars with lids

Obviously this won't allow you to leave out spoilable foods, but it's a great way to keep other things fresh. Use it to store things like tea, your expensive coffee beans, pasta, and bulk spices. And if the survivalists are right, this will turn out to be a very handy contraption to have!

[Via instructables.com]

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Are straight razors making a comeback?

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-04T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: recalls and safety, staying green, health

Some would say so. I became more convinced after I read an article expounding on 10 reasons to shave with a straight razor. The reason I was so interested is that I've been a cup 'n brush man since I was 17 years old. I won't say how many years it's been since then. I was forced to use the foaming goo in A.F. boot camp and hated it.

The 10 reasons are compelling:

Save money. I can relate; I use a Merkur safety razor. You know, the double-edged blade like gramps used? About a buck and a half for 10 blades.
Go green. It's true, why keep throwing away all that plastic?
Be a macho man. Or babe.
Pamper yourself. True, like using real shaving soap, you'll get a real shave, not a scrape job.
Get in on the ground floor. Like the man said, straight razors are on the cusp of cool!
Embrace danger. Are you bold enough after watching Sweeney Todd? Where's that jugular again?
Make new friends. Hey, if people can get together to make scrapbooks, they can get together to shave.
Take up a new hobby. Shaving as a hobby? Why not?
Learn a new trade. What, you've never fantasized about living the exciting life of a barber? Liar.
And (drum roll), channel your Grizzly Adams. Don't try to tackle that mane with a disposable razor!

[Via onlyknives]

(This post has been edited since publication to correct a photo error.)

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Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: Alternative residential energy

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-03T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: electrical, staying green, lighting, remodeling, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome

So you're fed up with your monthly gas and electricity bill? Or you're building a new abode and you want to get off on the right track with controlling how much utility power you have to buy from an outside producer?

What you need are alternate sources of energy. There are several ways to do this and you're free to mix and match in order to reach your energy freedom goals. No, I'm not recommending that you do any strip mining for coal in your backyard or install a nuclear reactor. (Might be a good idea, though.)

Choices for alternative energy sources

When it comes to providing some or all of your own energy sources, you have options, and the viability of these will vary according to where you live. Live out on the open plains? You're a good candidate for windmill type power (wind energy).

If you live in the sun belt (below the Mason-Dixon line), solar power is your ace in the hole.

If you happen to have a stream or fast-moving river in your backyard, you might just be able to harness that power to run your air conditioner, juice up your microwave, and heat your water. Let's look at these energy sources in more detail.

Ideally, you can use a little of all of these methods to meet your energy demands.

Electricity from wind energy

Wind is a great energy source because it's almost always in motion to some extent. And once you've got those big propellers set up and spinning, you're money ahead. Take that, electrical company!

This kind of power is generated using blades, like a fan, mounted on a pole, and incorporated with a wind turbine. The rotational power turns the turbine and converts this energy into electricity. To be most effective, many turbines are connected together on a "turbine farm."

Location of wind turbine farms

These farms are usually situated on plains or beaches. Recently, plans have been made to install floating farms in the Gulf of Mexico off the Texas coast. But for you, just stick them in your backyard. If anything, you might catch some flack from your homeowner's association.

Economical considerations for wind power

Although wind power is "free" as far as the raw material fee goes, there are still construction and operating costs involved. And, since a wind turbine presents a pretty large target, it is considered to be a vulnerable asset during a hurricane or tornado.

Using solar power for a residential energy supply

Solar energy is an even more predictable source of energy than wind. Even in the dog-dead still days of summer the sun shines, and even in the winter when the mercury drops, light energy is light energy. Solar panels also offer a smaller footprint than wind turbines.

They can either be mounted on a pole outside your home or simply laid on and secured to the roof of your home. And who sees it there? It might even keep some of that heat from entering your attic. Win-win, ka-ching!

The cost of solar power panels

Solar panels may sound expensive, and believe me, they are, but when all things are considered, the bite isn't really as bad as the bark. The main manufacturers (which you should use because in this case, a good track record and reputation are gold) are General Electric, Kyosera, Evergreen Spruce, British Petroleum, Sunteck, and Sharp.

These companies are very competitive so the pricing structure is fairly level. As a baseline, for a panel that converts the sun's energy into 200 Watts will run you between $800 and $1000 plus your labor (And just how expensive are you as a DIYer?).

One of the upsides of this is that once it's installed you won't see it on the local bendovernow power company bill. The other upside is that you will qualify for state and federal government tax deductions. Be sure to check your local details.

Using running water as an energy source

OK, granted that this option isn't much used by any but the most adventurous DIY homeowners. But if you're handy, you can put this together. You'll need a paddle wheel and you'll have to attach it to to a turbine, similar to the one used in wind energy generation.

You've likely seen plenty of these kind of set-ups in movies, but used to grind grains rather than turn a turbine. The concept is basically the same.

How does it all work?

Your system will generate the electricity and store it in wet batteries. As you know, wet batteries are a direct current (DC) storage medium. Homes run on alternating current (AC). Hmmm, something must be done to translate the juice.

You'll need a converter, or more properly called, an inverter. Kyosera does market one with their panels as a selling point. The batteries in the system are called deep-cycle batteries. This is unlike your car's battery which is a shallow-cycle battery.

The difference here is that a deep-cycle battery provides a steady low output of electricity whereas your car's battery needs a big jolt when starting and then charges steadily as you drive.

Can you be a stand-alone energy provider for yourself?

Probably not. Whether you use wind, water, or the sun to provide raw material for electricity, nature itself is not going to be as consistent as a power plant burning gas or coal. The solution? Tie into the local power grid.

When you have less power than you need, buy some. When you have more, sell some; although they won't give you the same price they charge you, tha' bums!

You'll have to ensure the power company that your power is compatible with theirs. It's important to be compatible with both their frequency and sinusoidal waveform. You will also have to be sure that when conventional power in your neighborhood is experiencing an outage, you're not feeding electricity into the lines. You might fry a lineman working on the system!

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Bicycle repair brain trust

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-01T18:00:00 00:00

Filed under: cars and transportation, fix-it, preventative maintenance, recreation, staying green

Bikes. They're everywhere. Mountain bikes and road bike sales started trending up about a decade ago (thanks, Lance), and recently sales got an additional bump because of rising gas prices. Do you own one? If so, you're familiar with the expensive pricing structure at the bike shop.

You really should get a complete tune-up on a yearly basis. And if you do the work yourself, you can save bucks big time. This used to be a case of reading confusing manuals with substandard illustrations. But no more! At this excellent bike repair online resource, you can do it all.

The instructions are clearly written and the photos are well-done and informative. So get out the tool box, surf over there, and get started! This is a great time to replace a freewheel, adjust your brake calipers, or adjust a headset!

[via Lifehacker]

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Grill cleaning 101

Kelly Smith — 2008-07-01T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: food, preventative maintenance, recreation, seasonal, entertaining, cleaning

So, the Fourth of July is upon us. That means fireworks, beer, grilling, beer, and oh, did I mention beer? But I digress. Let's talk grill hygiene. What's tackier than a grill with chunks of last week's burgers on it? Cleaning the grill doesn't have to be a big chore.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so a video must be worth, what, a million? The creative folks at Howcast have created a great grill-cleaning how-to video that makes the job a piece of cake. You'll need aluminum foil, a grill scraper, and a bit of patience.

There's also a great tip on making future clean-ups easier -- spraying the grill with non-stick spray while it's still warm. It reminds me of seasoning my cast iron pan. But that's a tip for another blog post!

[Via Howcast.com]

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Ceramic transfers made easy

Kelly Smith — 2008-06-26T16:00:00 00:00

Filed under: food, home decor, in the kitchen, weekend projects, art, Crafts, kitchen, gifts

How would you like to personalize and dress up those drab ceramic plates, cups, and saucers? It's not only possible, it's much easier than you might think. Handcrafting guru Heather has posted this excellent tutorial on doing your own ceramic transfers.

The first thing you'll need of course, are the ceramic pieces. Next, a screen printer will be able to put your graphics on transfer paper for you. The key here is using the right vitrifying ink. Then just cut them out, soak them to remove the backing, and arrange them on the ceramic pieces.

Finally, the pieces just need to be glazed and cooked in the kiln. Pottery studios are readily available in most places for crafty folks and even for children's parties. But can you eat off them, you ask? Certainly you can! What a great idea for a birthday or anniversary.

[Via whipup.net]

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PRS: Install tile in your bath or kitchen, part 3

Kelly Smith — 2008-06-26T14:00:00 00:00

A layout alternative

As an alternative, an interesting and attractive layout is to install the tiles on a diagonal. In other words, rotated ninety degrees for the diamond look. This looks distinctive with rectangular border tiles of a contrasting color.

Trowel it on and stick it up!

You'll need:

A notched trowel
A bag full of tile spacers (they look like little rubbery "x'"s)
A wet tile saw
A pair of tile nippers

You've got choices when it comes to your adhesive medium. Your tile manufacturer will most likely give a recommendation and you should follow that in order to be good with any warranty offered. Most likely, you'll be using a Portland cement paste, a latex or dry set Portland cement mortar, epoxy mortar, or an organic adhesive.

The best way to apply the adhesive is to use the flat side of your trowel to slather it on and then use the notched side to comb it out to an even depth. Stick on your first course of tiles, putting two tile spacers between each two adjacent tiles.

When you set a tile, tap it lightly with your mallet. Use your wet saw to make any straight cuts on your tiles, For cutting irregular edges, use the tile nippers. When done, let it set up before grouting; I usually give it overnight at a minimum.

Time to grout

For grouting the tile, this is what you'll need:

A grouting sponge
A grouting float
A bucket of water
A paddle mixer
An electric drill

Grout comes in a variety of colors. Darker colors are easier to maintain a clean appearance. It's also available "sanded" and "unsanded." Basically, sanded has a grainier feel. Your preference on both color and texture. Although you can find grout pre-mixed, for a job of any size you'll want to buy powder and mix it with a paddle mixer.

Don't buy any grout that's labeled fast-drying. This might be fine for small jobs but you don't want to feel rushed.

First, remove the spacers. These can be reused so don't throw them away. Next, use your float to press the grout into the grout lines between the tiles. Work in a semi-circular motion and make several passes to ensure that you leave no air pockets.

Shape the grout lines

Now use your wet sponge to remove excess grout from the surface of the tile and to "shape" the grout lines. This means not removing too much, just enough to leave it slightly concave between the tiles. This step takes a bit of practice but don't despair, you've got a bit of working time.

There will be a bit of a glaze on the surface of the tiles; don't worry about that at this point. Once the grouting is complete, let it set to cure. Again, I usually give it overnight.

Don't forget the most important item: the sealer

Now you're almost done. You'll need to finish up the job by wiping the grout glaze off the tile surface with cheesecloth and applying a grout sealer to the grout lines. You have a choice with your grout sealer just as you did with the grout itself.

For a "wet look", buy a topical sealer. This will provide a protective coating on the surface of the grout. Otherwise, use a penetrating sealer. This variety will soak into the grout to seal it but will leave it with a natural look.

The manufacturer will have specific instructions for application. The two most common methods are to wipe it on the entire surface and then buff it off the tile, or to just follow the lines between the tile. Either way, once it's dried, come back and put another coat on. A little work now will save you a lot of headache later!

Now it's complete. You're free to take a shower or wash the dishes!

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PRS: Install tile in your bath or kitchen, part 2

Kelly Smith — 2008-06-26T14:00:00 00:00

Prepare the wall

This applies mainly to tiling in a bath. For a backsplash in the kitchen, you can work directly from the existing drywall.

The precursor of cement backer board was cement stucco that was applied over wire mesh (lathe). When it became obvious that this type of application stood the test of time better than other methods, cement backer board was developed to make installation easier, cleaner, and faster than stucco.

Keep in mind that the backer board is quite rigid. You'll want it to be as plumb as possible to look good once the tile is on.

What does this mean? You might have to do some shimming if your studs are warped. I've even used a block plane to take off the high part of a slightly warped stud. You can use a plumb bob from the top plate to the bottom plate to determine if you have issues to deal with.

Install your backer board

Now that you've got off all the green board or drywall, you're ready to install the backer board. The easiest way to do this is to screw it right to the wooden studs. You can also nail it up if you use hot-dipped ring-shank nails.

It's always a good idea to hang 15-pound roofing felt on the studs as a moisture barrier before installing the backer board.

To cut the backer board, use a circular saw blade made for this purpose. And be ready for some monumental dust. Note: wear a dust mask! Some brands of backer board have lines on the surface so you can score it with a utility knife and snap it.

Some installers recommend leaving an eighth of an inch between adjacent boards and filling the gap with silicone caulk. Why? I'm not sure. But do leave the gap between the tub and board and caulk it.

After hanging the backer board, get out your drywall tools and tape the joints using fiberglass tape and tile adhesive. This will ensure that you have a flat surface to mount your tile on and further waterproof the whole assembly.

Lay out the tile

Just like any other DIY project, preparation and layout are the keys to a professional-looking outcome. You'll strike control lines to be sure that your tile starts off on the right foot. Then, just keep building from there. In most shower enclosures and on kitchen back splashes, you'll be safe starting off and ending up with full tiles on the vertical run, finished off with a half-bullnose tile.

For the lateral, or horizontal run, you can start off with a full tile on either the inside or outside and work from there. As an alternate approach, your tiles can alternate, as bricks do -- start with a full tile on one course, start with a half tile on the subsequent course, etc.

If you're tiling a counter top back splash in the kitchen, you can use specialty rounded tiles for the bottom course.

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Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome: Install tile in your bath or kitchen

Kelly Smith — 2008-06-26T14:00:00 00:00

Filed under: fix-it, home decor, in the kitchen, weekend projects, bathroom, framing and drywall, Tools, remodeling, Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome

Have you been thinking about a bathroom or kitchen remodeling project? Good choice! These two rooms get used a lot -- they're both functional and intimate. And both of them feel right at home with tile, including ceramic, porcelain, and good, old-fashioned stone.

Begin your remodel with a demo

Some folks consider the demolition phase of the remodel to be the most fun. After all, it's an opportunity for a bit of justifiable violence. Be careful though; don't cut into any plumbing pipes or electrical circuits. If your home has a few years on it, the walls in your bathroom are most likely regular drywall or greenboard (water-resistant drywall.

Greenboard used to be the industry standard as the base for installing tile on, but now it's frowned upon. You'll want to get rid of it and replace it with backer board. This is a cement-fiber material that offers not only water-resistance, but also incredible stability.

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Reel lawn mowers: what to look for

Kelly Smith — 2008-06-24T16:00:00 00:00

Filed under: seasonal, landscaping, outdoor, recalls and safety, staying green, Tools

Yeah, you haven't used a reel lawn mower since grandpa threatened to take you out behind the wood pile and give you a whuppin' if you didn't make with the chores, right? Well, guess what? Reel mowers are making a comeback due to high gas prices and that vacant seat on the green movement band wagon.

Today's push reel mowers have kept up with the times. The blades are better quality steel, the units don't weigh as much, and with amenities like sealed bearings, maintenance is minimal. They are also safer than motorized mowers -- no debris projectiles to dodge!

Shopping with criteria in mind

So, what should you look for when you make the choice to DIY your lawn and go green at the same time? Consider these ideas:

What height do you want your grass to maintain? Different models have different max height settings. The Scotts Classic mower will go as high as 3 inches.
How big is your lawn? The larger it is, the wider you'll want the cutting swath to be.
How much maintenance are you willing to put up with? There's not much involved in any case other than blade adjustment and sharpening. Higher-grade models like the Brill Razorcut 38 claims to not need a sharpening for 8, count 'em, 8 years! Cheaper models are in the every year/every other year range.
Price. The price of these mowers varies widely, from the $80 ballpark up to $300. Usually, like fancy plumbing fixtures, you get what you pay for, so shop around.

Ready to go green? Ready for a good workout? Ready for some quiet lawn work? Start shopping and get to mowing!

[Via www.icanfixupmyhome.com]

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