DIY Life

Hardware Store Decor

Kristine Hansen — 2011-09-12T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Living Rooms, Home Offices, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Looking for chic, industrial housewares? Look no further than your local hardware store. The new book "Home From the Hardware Store: Transform Everyday Materials Into Fabulous Home Furnishings" shows you how to transform utilitarian items into furniture and accessories that really work.

Machine-Age Candlesticks, as seen on page 106 of Stephen Antonson and Kathleen Hackett's book, require no tools to assemble. Photo: Lesley Unruh

For co-authors (and real-life couple) Stephen Antonson and Kathleen Hackett, it all goes back to a chandelier in Paris. Shortly after they began dating, Kathleen moved to the City of Light for six months. On his first visit, Stephen noticed the peaked ceiling in her rented apartment, thinking it could really benefit from a chandelier.

That day, while Kathleen was running errands, Stephen took a quick trip to the hardware store and picked up four supplies -- a pair of pliers, a single jack chain, a baling wire, and four candles -- which he used to make a chandelier by the time she got home that afternoon.

"I make a lot of things...whenever we need something I make it," says Antonson, who met Hackett when we was a home editor and she was an executive book editor at Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia. Soon after that chandelier was hung, he and Hackett realized they had a book idea on their hands. To come up with enough projects to fill an entire book, Antonson would wander the aisles of local hardware stores (they live in New York City) each morning with a cup of coffee, in search of inspiration.

The end result, "Home From the Hardware Store: Transform Everyday Materials Into Fabulous Home Furnishings" (Rodale Books, $23), was published in early November. It contains dozens of affordable DIY decorating projects, which use common hardware store items in brilliant yet simple ways to create modern, industrial decor. "If you can wrap a birthday present, you can do half this stuff," says Antonson.

Not familiar with hardware store items? Not to worry; you don't need to know an item's intended use. Instead, look to the lines, materials and beauty in each individual piece.

(Left) The Space-Age Coffee Table uses galvanized elbows (a type of pipe fitting) as an unexpected table base. (Right) The Periscope Lamp turns a crimp elbow (also a pipe fitting) into functional art. Photo: Lesley Unruh

Some of our favorite projects from the book include the Machine-Age Candlesticks (pictured, top), which require no tools except your own two hands. We also love the Periscope Lamp (pictured, above right), which transforms a crimped elbow into display-worthy light source.

The authors were kind enough to let us share with you our favorite project of all, the Space-Age Coffee Table (above left) -- an ideal DIY project for a weekend warrior.

SPACE-AGE COFFEE TABLE
To fasten the tiers together, you need to assemble the base without screwing anything together, and then disassemble it in vertical sections, which is not exactly an intuitive process, given the way the base it stacked.

Materials

Eight 90-degree galvanized elbows, 7" each
Four 90-degree galvanized elbows, 4" each
Eight zine bolts and nuts, 8=1" x 32
Twelve #6 sheet metal screws. 1/2" each
36" x 1" round solid pine panel
One quart primer
1/2 quart paint in desired color (we used Benjamin Moore Soot/#2129-20)
Industrial strength adhesive-backed Velcro, 35" x 2" strip

Tools

Black permanent marker
Drill with 3/16" and 1/8" bits
Phillips-head screwdriver
120-grit sandpaper
2" all-paints paintbrush

Instructions

1. Join four 7" elbows to form a circle. Repeat with the remaining 7" elbows, and then join the 4" elbows to make a smaller circle.

2. Stack the circles on top of one another to form tiers, aligning the ribs and placing the smaller tier in the middle. Find the seams where two elbows meet. On the ribs adjacent to the seams, mark the tiers deep in the middle, where they meet, with a horizontal line.

3. Pull the stack apart in half vertically, making note of the top and bottom of the base. Using the marks as guides, mark an X 1" beyond them, toward the center. Use a drill with a 3/16" bit to drill a hole at each X.

4. Break the tiers into quarters so you can fasten one quarter of the base together at a time. Rest the elbows on a work surface so that the openings of the elbows are facing you. Align the holes, slide the bolt through, and fasten the nut with your hands. Don't fasten it too tightly -- once you put the entire base together, you'll need a little room to play. Repeat with the remaining three sections of the base.

5. Put two sections together to make half the base. Use an 1/8" bit to drill a hole 1/2" from the seam on each tier, through two layers of elbow. Screw in the sheet metal screws. Repeat on the other half of the base. Put the two halves together. Screw them together in the same manner, drilling a hole 1/2" from the seam on each tier, through two layers of elbow, and fasten with the sheet metal screws. Set the base aside.

6. Sand the top, bottom, and edge of the pine round. Wipe it down with a soft cloth, brush with a thin coat of primer on the top and edge, and let it dry. Sand the round all over and wipe it down with a soft cloth again. Apply a coat of paint on the top and edge and let it dry. Apply a coat of paint on the bottom and let it dry.

7. Cut the Velcro into twelve 3" pieces. Separate the hooks from the loops. Wipe down the top of the table base with a soft cloth to remove any traces of grease or residue. Remove the adhesive backing from one of the loop pieces and fasten it 3 1/2" from the outer edge of the base, along a rib. (This is the high point, where the tabletop makes contact with the base.) Repeat with the remaining loop pieces and ribs.

8. To determine where to put the hook sides of Velcro on the underside of the table, set it on top of the base. Use a pencil to mark the underside of the tabletop where the Velcro is attached to the base. This is where the outside long edge of the hook sides of the Velcro should be attached. Place the tabletop wrong side up on a work surface. Remove the adhesive from the hook pieces of the Velcro and fasten them to the table, using your pencil marks as guides. Flip the tabletop over and set it onto the base, aligning the Velcro pieces.

Related:

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13 Things You Can Clean With a Toothbrush

Kristine Hansen — 2011-03-29T08:10:00 00:00

Filed under: in the kitchen, organization and storage, cleaning, Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Living Spaces

One of the cheapest cleaning tools is also one of the most versatile. Do you know all the things your toothbrush is capable of?

Mary Findley ("Mary Moppins" of GoClean.com) has been a career housekeeper for at least a dozen years. She's also the co-author of "The Complete Idiot's Guide to Cleaning" (2005) and wrote a follow-up four years later ("The Complete Idiot's Guide to Green Cleaning"). It's the move-outs for private residences that allow her to do the best work -- and remove every single speck of dirt. About every four to five months at each of her client's homes she arms herself with a toothbrush and does a deep clean.

Photo: Getty Images

Here's are some areas of your home -- make that, 13 -- where a toothbrush will come in handy. In most cases, your favorite cleaning products or simply warm, soapy water over the toothbrush bristles will be enough to do the job.

1. Edges of the kitchen and bathroom sinks
"It's those little crevices where dirt goes. Toothbrushes work a lot better than toothpicks, which break off all the time and then get stuck," says Findley.

2. Sink drain
To clean out the drain in your bathroom or kitchen sink, simply pour vinegar (which Findley likes as it's less toxic than most other options) down the drain. Next, take your toothbrush and scrub, scrub, scrub until you don't see any more grime lining the drain.

Photo: Jolie Novak, AOL

3. Stove and dishwasher knobs
If you've ever tried to take a sponge and swipe it over the knobs on your kitchen appliances, then you know this just does not work. The goal is to remove all of the dirt, not just some of it. That's where a toothbrush is your friend. It allows you to get under and behind those pesky little knobs, which is actually where dirt builds up, yes?

Photo: Jolie Novak, AOL

4. Faucet base
Mold and mildew can easily collect on the base of a faucet, says Findley. Gently brush the wet bristles of a toothbrush over the base and more will come off than you could have removed using a rag or a sponge.

5. Linoleum flooring
Put a blob of toothpaste onto a moist toothbrush and get down on all fours to get stubborn stains out, especially marks made from boots or high heels. "That's the only way I get heel marks off my client's floor," says Findley. Note: Do not try this with hardwood or ceramic-tile flooring, however. The toothpaste could stain and the scrubbing leave nasty-looking marks on the floor.

6. Lampshade
Getting dust off a lampshade might require just a swipe with a microfiber cloth, but what about keeping the color pristine? Grab a children's soft toothbrush and gently rub it against the lampshade. "They are wonderful for cleaning the pleats in a pleated lampshade," says Findley.

7. Framed pictures or art
Take a small piece of gauze and cover the bristles, says Findley. "That does a good job of cleaning the corners of framed pictures." If you don't cover the bristles you run the risk of scratching -- and forever damaging -- a beautiful frame.

8. Toilet-seat hinges
Another tight space that a toothbrush has no problem fitting into.

9. Wall sockets for light switches
You're probably already thoroughly cleaning the socket, but what about the little "off" and "on" areas? The bristles on a toothbrush can get the dirt out of those little letters, no problem.

10. Sliding glass doors
You know the runners on a shower area's sliding glass doors? They get pretty grimy and they're a pain to clean. Findley suggests that next time you tackle this task with a toothbrush. "Runners get moldy pretty quickly. A toothbrush gets in the corners," she says. "Man, a toothbrush just zips that stuff out of there."

11. Window frames
Just like the sliding glass doors, the insides of window frames are prime real estate for collecting mold. Take a toothbrush over the cracks and crevices to do a better cleaning job.

12. Microwave or stove vents
Findley takes a rag (she' s really good at chopping up her husband's old T-shirts into 5" by 5" pieces) and gets it slightly wet with a cleaner before throwing it over a toothbrush. This is perfect for cleaning out microwave or stove vents. "You can't spray a cleaner back there because it will burn out the fan," she says.

13. Refrigerator vents and coils
Ideally these should be cleaned twice a year. "With the slats in those vents, it's real hard to get a cloth down there," says Findley.

Read about more surprising ways to clean:
Weekly Cleaning Tips Put to the Test
Mint Robot Cleaner: We Tried It, You Win It

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Can You Balance an Egg on the Equinox?

Kristine Hansen — 2011-03-14T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Want to impress your friends by balancing an egg on the Vernal Equinox? It's possible, but you have more than one day to get it done. Here's how...

Urban legends are a dime a dozen when it comes to Mother Nature and her seasonal quirks. Case in point: The old egg-balancing theory, which states that you can balance a raw egg on its end only on the spring (vernal) and autumn equinoxes. Also, according to Chinese folklore, standing an egg on its end during either equinox promotes good luck.

The not-so-illusive balanced egg! Photo: spike55151, Flickr.

This year, the Spring Equinox occurs on March 20 -- that's when the Earth's axis tilts neither near nor away from the Sun: Instead, the Sun is directly above the equator.

According to Kristi Concannon, associate professor of physics at King's College in Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania, and an astronomer by training, this egg-balancing theory is far from the truth. The reason it's false? You can actually balance an egg any day of the year. One of the first things a graduate professor had her and fellow classmates do at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill was to test this theory. It was the day after the Spring Equinox, she recalls, and the students were told to line up their eggs. Amazingly, they all balanced with ease, therefore refuting the legend.

"You could balance an egg right now and it's certainly not the equinox," says Concannon. "Maybe somebody once balanced an egg on the equinox and then the myth got started?"

Say you do want to try and balance an egg during the equinox -- or any other time of year. Concannon suggests hard-boiling that egg first. It's more difficult to keep a liquid yoke still. Another tip: "It's easier to balance the egg on the round end than the pointy end," she says. "If you were to look really close at an egg, there are little bumps. These little bumps act like little legs." Who knew?

Still, it intrigues a lot of people, particularly during the month of March when this urban legend hits the airwaves and social-media networks like clockwork. Would you try this trick this month?

See how it's done in this video! (Hint: Instead of boiling the egg, this video suggests a raw egg and plenty of persistence.)

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Pruning Trees Using the Three-Cut Method

Kristine Hansen — 2011-03-01T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Patios, Porches & Decks, Outdoors

Give your trees a healthy headstart to spring by pruning large branches now with the simple three-step method.

The three-cut method. Photo: KTesh, Flickr

Looking forward to lush green leaves and spring blossoms on your trees? You might have to give them a few good, healthy chops first.

In order to encourage healthy, hearty growth and maintain the structure of your trees, you should prune often and early. Late winter/early spring -- before the first sprouts emerge -- is the perfect time to lop of weak or dead branches.

There are many ways to prune a tree, but there's only one foolproof method that prevents surviving branches from developing fungus and makes sure the bark stays intact and the tree's structural tissue isn't damaged: it's called the three-cut method.

Many arborists swear by the three-cut method of pruning trees. Brian Sayers, president of New York State Arborists and owner of The Tree Doctor in Clarence, N.Y., won't let his employees trim trees any other way. Sayers believes that the three-cut method is safer, because it lets you gently eliminate the majority of the limb before making the final cut at the limb's base. "All the weight [of the limb] is gone and you can concentrate on the [final] cut," explains Sayer.

Here's how the three-cut method works:

1. Begin by cutting a notch into the weakened limb about five or six inches inches before the spot where you intend the final cut to be. Make the cut half an inch deep.

2. For the second cut, move out an inch or two away from the trunk and cut intil the joint snaps and the majority of the limb falls off. Tree limbs are heavy, so the first cut acts to prevent the limb from tearing stem tissue as it comes off.

3. The third cut is the most important. Here are you are attacking the raised, rough stub, which is called a bark tear. The goal is to remove it completely so that the "wound" is clean and there is hardly any raised surface area. To do this, locate the "collar" where the limb meets the trunk. Cut about a quarter inch away from this area, because the tissue in this region is crucial to help the tree heal from the cut you've just made. "If you don't find the branch collar, the tree will start to rot," cautions Sayers. "Follow the angle of the branch collar so it will produce new wood. Otherwise, [the tree will] get fungi."

In this video, you'll see exactly how to prune small and large limbs on a tree. Want to see the three-cut method? Skip to 1:35.

Sayers offers three additional safety tips to ensure you won't damage yourself in the process:

(Top) A long-handled pole saw. Photo: Fanno. (Bottom) A chainsaw that's perfect for pruning trees. Photo: Stihl

1. Use the right tools. Sayers recommends a Fanno hand saw or pole saw, or a chainsaw by either Stihl or Husqvarna.

2. Do not use a ladder, no matter how short you are or how high up the affected branch is. "The branch can come down on the ladder and [cause you to] fall off the ladder," says Sayers.

3. Do not cut while holding the saw above you. This applies to both handheld and chain saws. "You can't control the cut as well," says Sayers.

Got any tree-pruning tips? Share them in the comments below!

SEE ALSO:
Pruning Apple Trees
Early Spring Flowers: What's Blooming (ShelterPop)

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How to Clean Sheepskin

Kristine Hansen — 2011-01-24T15:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Sheepskin rugs and upholstery are beautiful, but they're also dirt magnets. Here's how to keep this popular animal hide (yep, your UGGs too!) looking as clean and plush as ever.

Lousie - Paisley, Flickr

If you've got a rug like the one pictured above or or a warm pair of UGG boots, then you're familiar with the luxurious material known as sheepskin. Sheepskin is produced when a sheep's hide is tanned, with the fleece intact, to create a pelt. You can find this hypoallergenic material incorporated into both fashion and home goods -- from sheepskin footwear and coats to sheepskin rugs, blankets and seat covers.

If you own sheepskin, you also know how easily it can lose its clean, plush look when the material is dirty or worn. But you might be hesitant to clean sheepskin yourself for fear of causing further stains, rips, tears or oily spots. That's why asked two experts to weigh in on ways to safely and effectively clean sheepskin.

First we talked to Leslie Reichert, a cleaning expert in suburban Boston and author "The Joy of Green Cleaning." With an eye toward non-invasive, chemical-free solutions, Reichert offers these tips for cleaning sheepskin products:

Don't machine wash: Resist the urge to dump an entire sheepskin product into your washing machine. The heavy handling during the cycle could damage it forever. Stick to handwashing sheepskin instead. "The more control you have over it with your hand, the better," says Reichart.

Use the right detergent: Fill a spray bottle with clean, cold water and your favorite vegetable-based cleaner, using the one-to-one formula for proper dilution. "You don't want to use anything with bleach in it, or that has an enzyme," says Reichert. This includes wool-specific cleaners like Woolite. Liquid castile soap (this writer recommends Dr. Bronners) is good too, Reichart says, because it's chemical-free and biodegradable. Another product Reichart recommends is Soapflakes. The product, manufactured in England, is difficult to find here in the states, although it is sold through Reichert's online-shopping portal. " In the 1970s they stopped making [Soapflakes] because detergents became really big. But it's great because it's really gentle and it's a hundred-year-old formula," says Reichert.

Spot clean: "For spot cleaning, just a damp sponge is fine," says Reichert. "[Mixed with] a little bit of your cleaning product" (see above). If your sheepskin product has grease stains, a touch of cornstarch (without water) can easily remove them.

Ward off odor: Like any product, sheepskin can develop an odor over time. To get it smelling fresh again, Reichert relies on an easy-to-make formula that's a tablespoon of baking soda mixed with a couple drops of essential oil (lemongrass, if you have it).

zio Paolino, Flickr

How Do You Clean UGG Boots?
So what about your UGGs? Recently, we caught a segment on the Today show in which "The Accidental Housewife" Julie Edelman demonstrated how to clean the popular sheepskin boots. She recommended using a nail file to buff out a stain or blotting the stain with milk, then stuffing newspaper inside to absorb any moisture in the wool lining.

For the record, we talked to Lindsay DiCola, who represents UGG Australia, manufacturers of the ubiquitous sheepskin-lined boots. Lindsay informed us that UGG has its own line of cleaning products that includes sheepskin refresher; sheepskin repellent; cleaner and conditioner; a special brush; and a scruff eraser. She recommends that you invest in the UGG cleaning kit, which contains all of these items ($20).

For periodic maintenance, DiCola recommends UGG Australia sheepskin cleaner and conditioner, which is designed to safely moisten the footwear when you dilute with an equal amount of water. Apply the mixture with a slightly damp sponge and scrub without using a lot of force. (You want to be gentle with these boots.) Next, rinse the boots under a thin stream of cold water, dry in a cool place and lightly brush in one direction -- but only when the sheepskin is dry. Whatever you do, don't stick your UGG boots in the washer or drop them off at the dry cleaner; you risk ruining the sheepskin for good.

Got any tips for cleaning sheepskin? Any sheepskin-related problems you'd like us to solve? Let us know in the comments below!

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Ice Melters: Eco-Friendly Alternatives to Rock Salt

Kristine Hansen — 2011-01-19T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Everyone loves a winter wonderland -- until they have to shovel the snow and de-ice the driveway. Photo: D'Arcy Norman, Flickr

Rock salt may be effective at melting ice on your sidewalks and driveways, but at what cost? Numerous studies cite salt's ability to wreak havoc to the natural environment. The heavy use and overuse of traditional rock salt (sodium chloride) can corrode concrete and asphalt, as well as damage plants. Plus, rock salt is your four-legged friend's worst enemy. It can get stuck in the paws of dogs and burn or irritate their skin.

So how do you prevent a walkway or driveway from becoming dangerously slippery slope while still being kind to the environment and keeping paws and asphalt intact? Luckily, there are numerous natural de-icing options, ranging in price from ten to a few thousand dollars.

Here are our three top ways to de-ice driveways and walkways the natural way, depending on your budget.

NATURAL SUBSTANCES FOR TRACTION ($10-$15)

Salt de-icers will get the job done, but are often harmful to the environment. Photo: Arvind Grover, Flickr

Opt for less harmful substances to scoop onto your driveway after a snowstorm.

- Cat litter: Make sure the type you use to lay down on ice and snow buildup is natural and biodegradable. Options range from Yesterday's News (made from recycled paper and available in 5-, 15- and 30-pound bags) to Arm & Hammer Essentials Natural Clumping Litter (consisting of corn fibers and baking soda in a 10.5-pound bag).

- Sand: Sold at most landscaping and home-improvement stores, sand is a better alternative than rock salt, but still comes with a host of potential problems. It can easily wash into waterways, disrupting stream life. So make sure not to use sand near storm drains, as excess sand can clog drains and cause flooding. You also want to be careful about tracking sand into your home -- via the bottoms of shoes and boots -- because it's abrasive particles can damage wood flooring and carpet. To keep damage to a minimal, park shoes and boots on an entryway rug or inside the garage or mudroom.

- Other household items: To get traction on icy surfaces, you may also use sawdust, shredded corn cobs, peanut hulls, gravel, straw and wood chips. All are environmentally friendly and readily available.

ORGANIC ICE MELTER ($20-$30)
De-icers containing chlorides can be harmful or irritating to pets, concrete, asphalt, plants and the environment, but there are a handful of products designed specifically for sensitive paw pads and general eco-safety (though they're primarily marketed as pet-safe). Safe Pet Ice Melter costs around $30 for a 20-pound bag, or $20 for an 8-pound jug. The chloride-free product is sold at places like Ace Hardware. Also available is Safe Step's "Sure Paws". A 20-pound bag of the organic, natural salt-free deicer costs $20, and an 8-pound jug slightly less. Another popular option is Safe Paw, available in an 8-pound jug for $20 on Amazon.

HEATED DRIVEWAY ($300-$5,000)

Heated driveways, walkways and parking surfaces are becoming increasingly popular, as they eliminate the time-consuming and labor-intensive aspects of snow removal. Photo: All Warm

If money is no object and you desire an effortless snow removal system, think about installing a heated driveway, which uses radiant heating to melt ice from below. The standard design features cables or tubing under the driveway and sidewalk that are heated by electricity or hot water.

"A lot of our calls are from serious DIY people, who do a lot of research and then they turn it over to us," says Tracy Stanger, CEO of WarmZone in Salt Lake City. The company installs two kinds of radiant heating for driveways: hydronics or electric cables from a Scandinavian company (costing between $8-$9 a square foot). "We're seeing electric as the fastest-growing segment," Stanger explains. "There's no moving parts and no maintenance."

These are more often installed under concrete or asphalt for new-construction houses, only because the cost to rip up the driveway is astronomical. "We don't really recommend retrofitting," says Stanger. "It can be done, but it's almost like getting a new driveway." If you choose to install under brick pavers, a sand base is added as the bottom layer, followed by the cables and finally a second layer of sand with the pavers on top.

Another hidden cost would be in upgrading the voltage, if your home is not currently set at the proper voltage level (around 240 volts). "You have to be careful about that," advises Norma Hess of All Warm in Cleveland, which uses a Norway-made cabling product. "Otherwise you won't be able to turn on your toaster."

Tempting as it may be to install the product on your own, professionals recommend you only lay down the cables. "The final hook-up should always be done by an electrician," says Stanger.

Heff agrees. "You need a certified electrician to do the hook-up. It's not something you just plug in."

Psst...Our sister site ShelterPop is hosting a design challenge -- go vote for your favorite student-designed product!

SEE MORE:
Shovel Snow Easier with Cooking Spray
Snow Removal: What to Do After a Blizzard
Eco-Friendly Tips for Deicing Your Driveway [CasaSugar]

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