DIY Life

Marriage Advice for Remodelers

Mark Clement — 2011-03-25T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

You know overhauling your home can take a toll on your wallet and your patience. But it also can affect your marriage, if you let it. Our writer explains how to avoid the traps.

The writer and his wife, hard at work. Photo: Charles & Hudson.

Home improvements -- even small repairs -- can provide us with a sense of achievement, pride, and the beauty or peace of a job well done.

That's the upside. Yes, there's seperate marriage advice for those going through a remodel. Here's how your marriage can survive the overhaul.

But they can also become high-pressure stress machines, especially for spouses working together.

And the higher the stakes (think full kitchen renovation versus a wallpaper border) the higher the fallout when things go wrong. Note: Things always go wrong.

Budgets get blown, timelines tank and communication is chaotic. Sometimes problems escalate into "I'm sleeping on couch" disagreements. That's why Mike Holmes of Holmes on Homes and Holmes Inspection calls the marital fallout from projects "Divorce Dust."

For example: When Ken and Melly from Tyngsboro, MA decided to re-do their bathroom, both were excited. The idea was to start by taking apart the linen closet.

Ken, who's handy, got to work on his day off while Melly headed to the office, both unaware of the problem they'd just created.

Melly figured that Ken should remove the shelves and trim. Ken (knowing the bathroom was a full gut) thought they had agreed on deleting every shred of the closet en route to the demolition eventually required. Once he got into it, he realized two things: Once you take the skin off the walls, all the bones are connected. Also, that there was no clean stopping point. And that's how the entire linen closet wound up in trash bags in the driveway.

Imagine Melly's surprise when she got home.

Though trying, projects can also be an opportunity to learn more about each other and explore new ways to get along. My wife Theresa and I have found ways within our own marriage -- and the complete remodel of hundred year old house -- to short circuit these challenges. Call it the guide to avoiding divorce dust, call it marriage advice for remodelers -- either way, I hope it helps.

The Clement family, suited up for work. Photo: MyFixitUpLife

1. Slow Down, Look, Listen
Both of you will approach your projects from different perspectives. Call it Mars-Venus, different life experiences, whatever. The point is slow down --both of you-- and listen to one another. And make lots of eye contact when talking. Even when you don't want to.

2. Manage Expectations
Things go wrong in projects. It's not always someone's fault either. A house is a complicated system and having respect for that going in will serve you as you roadblocks arise.

3. Plan First
Many people suffering from home improvement headaches are in trouble because they got ahead of themselves. They tear down the deck without a detailed plan for the new one. Write an outline of the steps involved. How long you think they'll take and when you'll do them. Make materials lists. (Builders call this a "critical path.") Also plan to be wrong and to improvise.

And for jobs that require them, pull permits. This is so worth it, for a zillion reasons.

4. Budget
Money is a hot-button issue and lots of couples find themselves starting angry sentences with "But you said it would cost...."

What happened is that a realistic budget wasn't written (you didn't include the $800 in tools you'd need along with the materials) or there was an unknown (rotten roof decking under the garage shingles, for example). Or both.

Or, you over-estimated your abilities thinking you could frame a wall/run wire to code. Once you realized it was harder in real life than on TV, the walls started closing in (figuratively, I hope) and you needed to hire a professional.

All this boils down to this: Make a realistic budget. Include everything you can think of, then add 10%. Then, make sure you have some cash reserves beyond that because you'll probably use that 10%. Finally, try really hard to stay on budget.

5. Establish Leadership "Islands"
Theresa and I learned that working in parallel is only effective to a point. She's better at some things, I'm better at others. We call those things our "islands" and we're captains of them. For example, if she designs something, I work out if it can be built within the constraints we have (time, budget, etc.) It's not that we don't visit each other's islands sometimes, but due deference is paid when we're visiting.

6. Get Ready for Dust, Dirt and Inconvenience
The bigger the project, the worse it'll be. Different people have different tolerances for this. Everything from doing dishes in the bathtub to piles of tools in the corner on Christmas Day to dust in a room not being worked on. It gets to you eventually. Our favorite solution to this is to put hiring a maid into the budget. Which brings us to...

7. Schedule Changes
I can't tell you how many DIYers we've seen -- both on TV and in real life -- who don't alter their daily activities to meet the demands of their project. Seriously, their houses are blown apart, they're hemorrhaging money, both parties are furious, and still they take the dog out for a leisurely stroll, start working at 10:30 in the morning, chat with neighbors, or otherwise seem completely unaware that they're burning time. And they wonder why they can't finish?

If there's one bit of advice to take above all others, it's this: You need long swaths of uninterrupted time working to get hands-on projects done. You can't hang crown molding and talk on the phone. Follow this rule and others will fall more easily into place.

Ed Sanders of Extreme Makeover: Home Edition can attest. This woodworker is building the interior doors for his home where he lives with wife and four children. He's milling hardwood using a machine called a shaper, cutting the rails, styles and raised panels. And only after all that can he hang them in the opening. When we talked with him last year, he had the first doors done and was excited to finish. Then he got busy. A year later when we asked how the project turned out he, well, answered: "Oh...yeah...those doors..."

He graciously and hysterically told the whole story about what it's like living without interior doors ("It's amazing what you can do with sheets!"). And his tale is emblematic of what home improvement is and what it really means.

See, once you start, you've begun a journey. One way or the other, whether you come to the end of it or not, you're on it. And the best way to enjoy it -- and improve your home and feel that pride and peace -- is to get along with each other. Let carpentry problems stay carpentry problems; money problems stay money problems (at least try your best to). Journeying the home improvement path together might change some things, but it doesn't change who you are.

So trust each other -- a lot. Give each other reasons to deserve the trust. And work together. It's what marriage -- and home improvement -- is all about.

Still have remodeling issues on the brain? Read about another marriage-meets-DIY situation in New Wife, New Kitchen.

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Drilling into Concrete and Masonry

Mark Clement — 2011-02-28T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Essential Skills, Know-How

Drilling into concrete and masonry can be a disaster if you're not using the right tools. Here's some breakthrough advice on getting the job done right.

Getty Images

So here's a call I received once at the headquarters of MyFixitUpLife, where my wife Theresa and I offer insights into building, designing, and living through renovations as professionals and as a family. The call came from a friend who was having the darndest time trying to hang some shelves on a garage wall.

His was frustrated because the wall he was trying to drill into was made of concrete. Just as he'd seen me do on other projects, he picked up some masonry bits from the store for his cordless drill, but when he tried sinking holes in the wall the bits turned cherry red and left nary a mark on the concrete. He was at a loss and didn't know what to do.

The short answer is that drilling holes in concrete requires the right tools and bits. And, ironically, as they work together they don't "drill" in the same sense a wood bit does. What's happening when you use a concrete drill is that the tool and bit are pulverizing the concrete in front of the bit while the dust is getting pulled up and out of the hole by the flutes on the bit. This is why you'll see the term "hammer" on a tool that drills holes in concrete and masonry -- because hammering is what it's really doing.

There are two types of hammers for drilling concrete: A hammerdrill is for drilling small holes (roughly a half-inch or less) and a rotary hammer is for drilling large holes (roughly larger than a half-inch, depending on the tool). And while the rotary hammer, which is a professional tool, can also drill small holes, a hammerdrill can't drill large ones, so it's important to buy or rent the right tool for the job.

Drill/Hammerdrill

hammerdrillskit.co.cc

When people ask me to give a list of the five essential tools to have around the house or shop, an 18-volt drill/hammerdrill almost always makes the short list. All the majors make them (here's a Porter-Cable model at left as an example) and they're ideal for drilling small holes for small expansion anchors -- what some people call "moly bolts."

Drill in moly bolts for light-duty connections to concrete and masonry -- everything from hanging vinyl shutters from a stucco house to attaching metal shelf brackets to a concrete or block wall. We've had good performance over the years with Red Head Poly-Set anchors for chores like this. We've even had great luck using hammerdrills on plaster-on-block walls that are as hard as concrete.

NOTE: If your plaster is over lath (a thin, narrow strip of wood; knock, and if it sounds hollow and/or doesn't break your knuckle it's probably over lath), try drilling first in non-percussion mode with a hammerdrill bit to see if the bit will drill out the plaster. Using the drill in hammer (percussion) mode might blow out the plaster because there's nothing behind it but air.

What's particularly efficient about using a drill/hammerdrill is that you can use the same tool to drill the anchor hole, then drive the anchor (in this case a screw). Drill/hammerdrills are also a good go-to for drilling holes in concrete floors for metal thresholds.

The tool's impact mechanism (called a "gubbins" for tool geeks like me) works like two poker chips spinning against each other, causing vibration at high speeds. This tool isn't for all-day drilling and driving by any means, but it'll get the job done for smaller projects like hanging a light fixture on a brick house. The tool vibrates quite a bit and the sound it makes is pretty loud. The hole goes down, but you know the tool's working -- and so do your neighbors.

Rotary Hammer
The rotary hammer is the Rolls Royce of the concrete-drilling world. Oversimplifying it somewhat, they work like jackhammers. A piston drives the bit forward which pulverizes the concrete or stone in front of it more effectively and much more quietly than a hammerdrill. As a result, you can work faster and drill significantly larger holes with these tools.

Plumbers Plus

While we'd recommend renting them for most homeowners because they're both specialized and expensive tools (with their own dedicated and expensive bits) they are the go-to implement if you have to drill half-inch or larger holes. Say, for example, you're building a deck on a stone house or drilling a hole for a dryer vent in a block house. Rotary hammers come in many sizes from small to mondo so when you rent one make sure to tell the rental salesman exactly what you're doing so he can select the right hammer for you. At MyFixitUpLife headquarters, we've had good luck on the smaller end of the weight scale - about 12 pounds - for most of the concrete drilling we do on our professional job sites.

Some rotary hammers also come with a chipping function (again, think handheld jackhammer here). The effectiveness of this is commensurate with the size of the hammer you're using, but if you have to chip concrete for some reason - maybe for eliminating an old clothesline footing, an obsolete planter, or blob of concrete ancoring a fence post - you can break the concrete up using this tool.

So whether you plan to hang shelves or build a deck, whenever you come across concrete, the shortest path to success is using the right combination of bits and tools to get the job done right.

Mark Clement is a contractor and all-around DIY pro. See more of his advice and projects at MyFixItUpLife.com.

Here are some more tips from DIY Life about choosing the right drill:
In The Workshop: Cordless Drills
In The Workshop: Drill Bits
Drilling Masonry: Avoid Disaster with the Right Tools

Want to know more? Check out this video on drilling:

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Painting Techniques: Painting Behind a Radiator

Mark Clement — 2011-02-17T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Painting the walls? Don't let a cumbersome radiator get you hot under the collar. Here are some foolproof tips and techniques for painting behind a radiator.

artnoose, Flickr

So you're painting your living room. You're excited, too. This is going to turn out great.

You've bought everything you'll need. A bountiful heap of plastic shopping bags full of drop cloths, roller frames, paint pans, a 5-in-1 tool, and, of course, paint brushes -- and not just any old brushes; you need good paint brushes: watch this video to learn how to choose!

You've also got just the right color picked out. And because it's an older place, you've tested for lead paint.

As you paint your way around the room, you first realize the radiator in your charming old place is at first in the way. Then, as you get right up to it with the brush you realize, "Wait a minute. I can't really get the brush back there. What the heck?"

And all your good karma turns sour because you now dread an ugly, slathered paint outline around the radiator.

That's usually how the scenario plays out. So whether you've found yourself there already or you had the foresight to research the problem before it actually became a problem, here's the best approach to painting behind a radiator.

Should You Remove the Radiator?
Let's get this out of the way early. Our advice: Don't even think about it. This is a professional plumber's job (the Washington Post agrees). Still want to attempt it yourself? We suggest at least consulting a professional plumber first.

Get Yourself Some Radiator Rollers and Radiator Brushes

(Left to right) Amazon; Ace Hardware

The easiest way to paint behind a radiator is to head back to the store (turn the heat off before you go; you'll see why later) to get what's called a "mini-long-handled roller." You can find this long, slender type of paint roller at practically any paint store or big box home center. Some manufacturers call them "radiator rollers."

You'll probably find two types at point of sale: one with a sponge roller cover (the part you put the paint on) and one with a microfiber roller cover. For what it's worth, I've had the best luck with the microfiber covers, but both work for this application.

Though I've never tried them, some people use radiator paint brushes too, which are designed to be long and slim enough to fit in tight quarters (same idea as a radiator roller).

Also, grab a box of contractor grade trash bags while you're there (you'll want them later for all the paint cans and debris that'll stretch your kitchen bags past the breaking point.)

When you return home, slide a contractor bag over the radiator -- which should be cool by now -- and snug tight with tape or string (or just have someone hold it taught). This is to protect the roller from all the dust bunnies and debris back there.

Then, load your radiator roller with paint and sneak it down between the bag and the wall. Paint what you can but if it won't go all the way down, let it be. You won't be able to see that far behind the radiator anyway -- nor can you see through most radiators, for that matter.

Unlike standard size roller covers, I clean out mini roller covers in my utility sink. Why not just throw them out? First, they're not all that cheap, so I tend to reuse them. Second, unlike full-size roller covers, they clean up fairly easily so it isn't a hassle at all.

Or You Could Just Build a Radiator Cover
If for some reason you can see through the radiator to the unpainted wall behind but can't paint there's another other option: building a radiator cover. These are a really fun projects. However, we bring it up here only as an option. How to build them is another kettle of fish entirely.

In this video, DIY Network's Marc Bartolomeo demonstrates how to make a radiator cover out of wood and leftover soapstone countertop:

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Fireplace Heating Myths Debunked

Mark Clement — 2011-02-07T11:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces

Will an open fire leave your home more cold and frosty than warm and toasty? Get the true facts on fireplaces before lighting those logs --

Roaring fires evoke the warm feelings of holiday cards, but are fireplaces efficient forms of heat? Photo: Lord-helmut, Flickr

As winter continues to roar, picturesque dreams of chestnuts roasting on an open fire may dance in your head. And you're not the only one coveting cozy nights cast under a warm glow. According, to the National Home Builder's Association, 77 percent of home-buyers list a fireplace as a "most-wanted" amenity.

Unfortunately, in addition to a cozy ambience, fireplaces also elicit concern about safety-hazards, air pollution, inefficient heating properties, and laborious maintenance needs. Not quite the makings of a festive Nat King Cole song.

But do the pros outweigh the cons? Can a wood-burning fireplace really heat your home sufficiently? Are these structures simply a house fire waiting to happen? The key is to decipher the difference between fact and fiction. Plenty of conventional wisdom regarding fireplaces is flat-out wrong, or at least misleading. Here's the truth behind some of the commonly held fireplace misconceptions.

Fireplace Myths, Realities, and Easy Fixes

A relatively simple way to increase the warmth of a fireplace is to install a fireback, a decorative cast-iron plate that reflects heat into the room. Photo: Fireback.com

Myth: A fireplace provides heat.

Reality: Wood-burning fireplaces do not provide as much heat as they do ambience and beauty. Once upon a time, a fireplace was used as a major heat source -- as well as a stove for cooking food. But that role started waning about 270 years ago with the advent of the Franklin Stove.

Fire requires oxygen for combustion, thus fireplace flames consume the heated air inside your home, which results in a drafty interior. Also, cold exterior air is sucked into the house through the fireplace's chimney.

The Fix: This one's simple. Maximize the warmth of a fireplace by installing a fireback.

A Pennsylvania Fireback is a decorative cast-iron shield placed in the rear of the fireplace. Firebacks reflect and radiate the heat from your fireplace back into the room, increasing the amount of warmth your fire provides. Opt for a heavy fireback, as lighter firebacks don't retain as much heat. Prices start around $200 for a fireback.

Adding doors to a fireplace is one of the easiest and least expensive ways to increase the fireplace's heat efficiency. Photo: Lowe's

Myth: A fireplace operates inefficiently.

Reality: Over a year, a fireplace may passively consume more energy while not in operation due to leaks around the damper than when it's actually in use.

Most fireplaces have a throat damper, which is the steel plate inside the chimney that closes against a steel or masonry shelf to prevent hot air from escaping or cold air from entering. But because both the damper and the chimney itself are rigid, a tight seal is nearly impossible. Making the situation worse, many fireplace owners don't even know this little door is back there and leave it wide open all year long. This is almost the equivalent of leaving a window open.

The Fix: Install fireplace doors.

While they can be decorative, the main function of fireplace doors is to create a second barrier between the living space and the home's exterior. They are very effective at keeping heat in and blocking cold air from entering. Prices start around $150 for the doors.

Another efficient solution is to use a top-sealing damper, which creates a gasket seal similar to a door closing against weatherstripping. This keeps conditioned air from escaping and inhibits outside air from infiltrating the chimney. Lyemance, a leading manufacturer, says top-sealing dampers are 90 percent more efficient than throat dampers and can save hundreds of dollars annually on a typical sized home in a cold climate. Chimney-top dampers are available for $200 to $400.

Getty Images

Myth: You can't burn soft wood, like pine, because its pitch creates creosote that will coat the inside of your chimney and increase the possibility of chimney fires.

Reality: According to Ashley Eldridge, Director of Education for the National Chimney Sweep Guild, you can indeed burn pine without making a sticky mess of the chimney. Seasoned wood (wood that has dried for a year) burns better than green wood, which has a high-water content because it is recently felled.

It's also worth pointing out that most wood you'll burn, such as varieties from your local tree service or landscaper, is about as green a fuel as there is available. This is largely because it is locally harvested and transportation impact is minimal. Green experts refer to this as a low "embodied energy."

Photo: Fulla T, Flickr

Myth: Unused chimneys don't need inspecting or cleaning.

Reality: The National Chimney Safety Institute of America recommends annual chimney inspection.

Cracks can develop within the structure, as well obstructions like bird nests. An annual inspection enables you to pinpoint and fix small problems before they become huge, expensive ones.

The Fix: A certified chimney sweep inspects operation of parts susceptible to wear and tear, such as the damper, the chimney's interior and exterior construction. They're also trained to recommend and complete maintenance upgrades including stainless steel flue liners, like the HomeSaver. They'll diagnose performance issues like weak draft, smoke that doesn't flow forcefully up the chimney.

A basic inspection usually costs around $200 and the price often includes a sweep (cleaning). Repairs or upgrades depend on severity of the problem, height of or access to the chimney, and other variables.

According to State Farm Insurance, a sweep should clean a chimney if he sees 1/8-1/4 inch of creosote buildup. Creosote, a tar-like substance that lines a chimney with a sticky flammable coating, is a product of combustion and accumulates in the flue. It is an infamous ingredient for some chimney fires.

You can find a certified chimney sweep by visiting www.NCSG.org or www.Chimneys.com, as well as learn more about Links to how your chimney works at www.CSIA.org.

SEE ALSO:
How to Clean Your Fireplace
Fireplaces to Warm Any Room [Apartment Therapy]
Practical Tips for Building a Fire [EPA]
Decorating a Fireplace Mantel [ShelterPop]

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Snow Blowers: Repair and Troubleshooting

Mark Clement — 2011-02-01T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Exteriors & Facades, Know-How, Outdoors

As winter pounds down with record snowfalls, here are tips to make sure your snow blower is in top shape.

Photo: Uriah Welcome, Flickr

If you live in an area where it snows, cleaning up and digging out after a heavy snowfall is a simple fact of life. Sure, shoveling is the traditional way to get the job done, but your back, shoulders, and legs may be pleading for an easier alternative. Plus, with record snowfall pounding many cities this winter, a snow blower is starting to look like a pretty good item to have -- even to the most enthusiastic shovelers.

SNOW BLOWER TYPES
Snow blowers come in three varieties: electric, single-stage and two-stage.

Photo: Troy-Bilt

Electric Throwers
Electric snow blowers are smaller and more compact than their gas-powered counterparts. Their design makes them easy to maneuver and ideal for clearing lighter snowfalls on smooth, paved surfaces, as well as small areas like walkways, patios and driveway aprons. When it snows a foot or more and you've got some serious real estate to clear, opt for single-stage and two-stage units.

Single-Stage Throwers
A single-stage unit is powered by a gasoline engine, but propelled by you. In other words, you push it into the snow; it throws the snow. They are particularly adept at clearing heavy, wet snow into tall piles. If you live in light-snow area, save money by buying a single-stage machine. It's smaller and lighter than two-stage units, which are more effective in heavy and packed snow.

Two-Stage Throwers
Two-stage units, like the Troy-Bilt Storm 2620, are the big dogs of winter. Their larger gasoline engines drive a bigger auger, eject more snow and drive the wheels in forward and reverse. They're heavier and take up more space when not in use. If you've got ground to cover, they've got the muscle to make it happen.

Photo: Jronaldlee, Flickr

SNOW BLOWER REPAIR ISSUES
Even though we call on snow blowers to dig us out of trouble, they -- like any tool or machine -- can get thrown for a loop if things go wrong. Here's how to fix the common hiccups that occur with snow blowers:

Engine Fails to Start
If your snow blower won't start (and you've primed the motor), check to make sure the choke is in the proper position, the safety key is fully inserted, the tank has gasoline, and the spark plug isn't fouled. Nothing out of order? The problem may be that the fuel sitting in the tank has gone stale. Gas goes bad within a few months, so top the tank off with new gasoline. If the tank is full of gas, drain the tank and re-fill with fresh fuel.

The Engine Stops Running
So everything is going along swimmingly and you're trundling down the driveway throwing snow like a pro ... when the engine loses power. First, check that the spark plug wire is connected securely to the spark plug. If that doesn't solve the problem, check the gas cap. The gas cap is vented and if it's blocked by snow or ice the unit will lose power. Clear away anything that's there and give it another go.

If your snow blower continues to jam or stutter, it's best to slow down so that the machine does not take on more snow than it can handle. Photo: Nugefishes, Flickr

Failure to Discharge Snow
There are several reasons that your snow thrower's discharge chute can clog up. One culprit can be the snow itself. Moving slushy snow through a snow thrower's auger is kind of like making a snow ball in your hands. Moving and compacting the snow turns it to ice, which in turn clogs the chute. To fix, use the tool's clean-out tool (if it doesn't have one, try a stick) to remove the obstruction from the chute. Make sure to shut the unit down and disconnect the spark plug before doing this. Lastly, there could be a foreign object lodged in the auger. Again, power the unit down and remove the obstruction.

Unit Stutters and Grabs in Operation
Snow throwers work most efficiently when the blade can ride across the ground and get under the snow. But sidewalks often are riddled with dimples, pockmarks and cracks. If the machine is moving too fast when it hits an irregularity, it can bounce up a little and trap snow under the blade. This action causes the machine to jerk or stutter. The cure is usually to slow down.

If the irregularity is big, like an uneven sidewalk slab, the blade simply jams into it and the machine can't move forward at all. Again, the key to forward progress is to slow down. The blade maintains contact with the ground, doesn't take on more snow than it can handle, and as a result efficiently captures and ejects the snow.

KEEP YOUR SHOVEL
Even with a snow thrower in your possession, you shouldn't ditch your shovel just yet. You still need it to attack the steps and nooks that the muscled-up snow thrower can't go.

SEE ALSO:
What to Do After a Blizzard
Snowpacalypse: Tips to Keep Your Home Safe [Apartment Therapy]

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Prevent Pipes from Bursting...and Fix Burst Pipes!

Mark Clement — 2011-01-25T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Brutal temperatures can freeze the vulnerable pipes in your home, and frozen pipes can lead to burst pipes -- and a big mess on your hands. Here's how to prevent and deal with this common winter concern.

Sterlic, Flickr

If you've never seen a burst water pipe -- or the damage one causes -- consider yourself lucky. According to Sate Farm Insurance, about 250,000 homes sustain water damage annually from this calamity, a result of frozen pipes. In fact, "damage" is too weak a word to describe the disastrous effect a water pipe can have when it gushes open inside your home.

We remodeled a basement that had a water pipe burst while the homeowners were on vacation. Water rose to about 6 inches in the 30 x 30-foot room and destroyed virtually everything in it: a pool table, clothes, electronics -- even a wedding dress. Had there not been a shower in the basement to help drain some of the water, it would have been worse.

They had to take quick action to clean it up -- and we don't just mean getting rid of the water. We mean removing soaked framing, drywall, paneling, carpets, and anything else that was at risk for mold and mildew issues. Not fun.

And that's just the basement. When water pipes burst on upper floors, everything below is suddenly at risk as water cascades across floors and around framing until it finally (and relentlessly) finds a way down to where it'll always reach: the lowest point.

Since water always wins, prevention is the best medicine, which means taking simple but effective action to make sure your pipes don't freeze and, ultimately, burst. A poorly insulated house can actually protect pipes in a sense, because the conditioned air inside the house keeps the wall cavity above from freezing. But when it gets really cold, the weather wins and the water in the pipes starts to freeze. If you don't catch it in time, that's all she wrote.

Hazel Motes, Flickr

RISK FACTORS FOR FROZEN AND BURST PIPES
Any pipes that are situated in such a way that they can easily reach freezing temperatures are at risk. The most obvious are garden hoses. Others are less obvious and may even be totally hidden. Pipes that run across a garage ceiling, up an exterior wall that's not insulated, or under a crawl space are all classic examples. These vulnerable conditions tend to exist in old houses in which plumbing was retrofitted. It's not out of the question to see pipes situated this way in new houses, though. Not the wisest move, now that we know better.

Another sign you've got pipes on their way to the freezing point: water starts to run slowly (especially during deep freezes) or you find ice in your toilet.

PREVENTING FROZEN PIPES

Re-route: The easiest pipes to keep from freezing are the ones that are never exposed to freezing temperatures. If you have pipes that are exposed to freezing temperatures and have the chance to re-route them (or have a plumber re-route them) that's ideal.

Shut off/drain: Garden hoses are usually easy to shut off and drain. Inside the house -- usually near where the garden hose supply pipe exits the building -- there should be a shut-off valve, which you should shut off every autumn. Outside, open the spigot (there's a little water in there that needs to escape) and remove the garden hose. You should also drain your sprinkler system for the same reason.

In the old days, people used to shut entire wings of their houses down because they couldn't get heat to them. This included bathrooms which often have shut-off valves in their supply plumbing inside the house.

wayneandwax, Flickr

Insulate: Insulating wall cavities is remarkably helpful. If you're remodeling an entire room, adding insulation will be baseline. In other situations insulation can be blown into wall cavities, but it needs to surround the pipe to be effective, which may be tough to predict if you can't see it.

Pipes can also be wrapped with foam insulation, which helps the water inside maintain a regular temperature while it is in a cold location. (We do this with hot water pipes regardless of their exposure to freezing temperatures to help the water stay warmer longer, including inside walls.)

You should also insulate where pipes enter and exit the house. Spray foam insulation like Great Stuff is effective at knocking down drafts and keeping typically colder parts of a house (utility rooms, crawl spaces, etc.) warmer or easier to heat.

In a garage situation, you can add a gasket to the bottom of the door and add insulation to the door itself to help keep the area above freezing, but the reality is this will do more to help keep the inside of your house more comfortable than keep the unheated garage above freezing. You can also fabricate a soffit (a box) around the pipes and insulate it to help keep their temperature even. Again, it's 100% better than nothing but far from a guarantee unless the pipes can stay consistently above freezing no matter how cold it gets.

Heat tape: Most home centers sell heat tape. You wrap heat tape around a pipe and plug in to a receptacle. It can be effective in places like garages and crawlspaces where you can get to the pipe to wrap it, but it really only guards where it is wrapped (in this writer's experience). So if the pipe goes under a crawl space you can't reach or up a wall you can't access, it may not be guaranteed to work but it's 100% better than nothing.

Trickle: If you can't do any of the options above -- and that's common, especially in old homes -- opening both cold and hot water taps to a trickle can keep a pipes from freezing because the water is moving. However, this doesn't do as much good for a toilet, but periodic flushing might help.

Open doors: For rooms that get cold (that powder room in the far corner of the house for example), keeping the door to that room open can help. If the problem is under the kitchen counter, you can keep cabinet doors open (like at night before you go to bed). Granted, this is a highly impractical everyday solution.

Shut off water at the main: This is totally unscientific, but it almost seems like pipes actually prefer to burst -- whether frozen or not -- when homeowners aren't home and the water never really gets a chance to run all day or all week. The good news is that prevention is pretty easy: shut the water supply off at the main, where it enters the house near the water meter, next time you go on vacation (during the winter or summer). Also, open all your faucets to drain the system. When you get home, leave the faucets open, turn the main back on and let the water run until all the air is out of the system. (If you have pets and someone is watching your home, leave gallons of water for them to use.)

The main's knob is often difficult to turn (because it's rarely shut off). If you can't move yours, get a plumber in to replace it as soon as possible. I recommend the handle type (plumbers might call it a 'ball valve'). They're easier to operate.

Also, everyone (age-appropriate of course) in the house should know where the main is and how/when to use it.

Invest in RedyTemp: There is one product on the market that takes a different approach. RedyTemp is installed under a sink at the end of a plumbing run. The thermostatic device regularly sends heated water through your entire plumbing system preventing water from freezing in all locations according to the company.

FIXING FROZEN PIPES

If your pipes have already frozen but haven't burst, take immediate action. What to do depends on where the pipe freezes, but generally speaking, if you can heat the pipes back up, you can avert disaster.

Blow dryer/Heat gun/Hot cloths: If you open the faucet on the sink and nothing comes out, it probably means your pipes are full of ice. Chances are they're not frozen in the room where the heat is, but somewhere upstream (in the garage, wall cavity or crawl space.) If you have access to them, try blowing hot air from a hair dryer or heat gun to melt the blockage and get you out of a jam. You might also heat the space with a heat lamp or space heater. And -- it goes without saying -- use heat-generating products according to manufacturer instructions to avoid house fires.

You can also heat up water on the stove, soak rags or cloths in there, then wrap the pipe. This works at thawing pipes, but takes take a long time.

FIXING BURST PIPES

If pipes are still frozen: If the pipe bursts but is still frozen inside, shut off the water, either at a shut-off upstream or at the main. Unless you know how to remove and replace the section of pipe, call a plumber.

If water is gushing: If water is running out of the breech, take the same steps to shut off the supply and call a plumber.

If, however, your basement is flooded or it's been raining in your townhouse for three days, you've got a second layer of problems to solve and you'll need to have the problem not just cleaned up but remediated. You can call a remodeler who may be able to manage the situation, but you ay also call your homeowner's insurance company and/or a company that specializes in disaster remediation, which we hope you don't ever need.

And, you can look at it this way: preventing freezing pipes might be all the reason you need to take on that kitchen or bath renovation.

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On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

Mark Clement — 2011-01-04T16:03:00 00:00

Filed under: outdoor, remodeling, Patios, Porches & Decks, Outdoors

One of our favorite activities here in our FixitUp home is porch-sitting. I guess, to be technically correct, porch-sitting is inactivity. Either way, we love it.

However, its tough to love when the porch ceiling above you is, well, awful. So for this porch project, we tore down the existing ceiling (and existing trim as part of a complete porch remodel, but that's another story) and we're replacing it with an authentic looking bead-board made not from wood but from PVC. Whether you use wood or another material, installation is essentially the same and here's how we do it.

Photo: Mark Clement

Before You Begin: Tools
Beyond the ladders and basic hand tools, the four tools we rely on most for this is our work bench, miter saw, narrow crown stapler, and table saw.

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On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

Hard to do much to a ceiling if you can reach it. Our solution is simple and safe. We use one step-ladder and one rolling scaffold. Both are excellent and versatile DIY tools. I could go on, but will contain myself here. Bottom line is that they enable us to move across the width of the porch at ceiling level either holding, installing or nailing boards, which is pretty much impossible if have to climb up and down ladders.

Another option is using two step-ladders with a 2x10 running between them. We do not go past the third step with our plank, however, and we make sure the 2-by is pretty level. Also a cautionary DIY note: no step-stools.While convenient and usually within reach, these are for getting corn flakes out of the pantry and hanging pictures, not remodeling. They're too wobbly. Stepladders only, please.

Mark Clement

On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

There are always things to consider in any project. On a porch, for example -- especially in an old house where you'll find knob-and-tube wiring--the existing electrical device may need to be re-wired. Before installing the ceiling is the best time. To use a job site phrase, "wire is cheap when the walls are open." You'll save time and money.

On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

Porches are prime locations for the aptly named porch swing. Again, while the ceiling is open, install blocking between framing members to make installation easier and more secure later on. We even hung the porch swing, tested out the location, then removed it. Of course, before taking it down we measured and marked the location on the existing trim before covering it up. Time saved.

On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

The reason for this is that you want your first piece and last piece to be parallel -- or as parallel as possible--to the porch structure. If the porch is an inch or more out of square, you'll end up with pie-shaped pieces on the last board. The problem here is that if the bead runs under whatever trim boards you use (we'll use crown) it'll look silly.

The only time to figure this out and get the starter board running as parallel as possible to the front and back is to measure and adjust now. Don't just trust the back wall or framing in front is parallel to anything. If anything, trust that it's not!

On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

Use a square and mark your parallel measurements on the bottom of the outside joists. Make the mark one board-width (where your first tongue will eventually be) out from your control point. In our case this was 5 1/4 inches from the back wall.

On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

Measure for length -- within 1/2 inch as these edges are covered by molding. In our case, we are going to hang crown molding.

On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

Face nail first board near the perimeter, then through tongue. Install the second board. You'll likely have to wiggle and tap it to get it to "seat" properly against the first board. Once seated, nail through the tongue on an angle. This helps drive the second board snug. And the subsequent board's groove should cover the hole. In this particular application we like to use our narrow crown stapler. The staple holds securely for sure and, more importantly, doesn't blow through the work like nails sometimes can.

On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

Because the porch's ceiling joists may not be totally in-plane-i.e. they may sag or crown-its easiest to have someone help work the grooves snugly over the tongues. If using a hammer to tap the board in place, tap gently. Hitting too hard deforms the tongue, making the next board harder to install. If you really need to unload to get the boards together cut a scrap, place the groove over the tongue and hit the scrap piece--not the finished board. If the joists span more than 16 inches, adding a little construction adhesive is extra insurance to prevent sags later on.

On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

Use a jigsaw to cut around electrical penetrations.

On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

Sometimes this board needs to be ripped to width on the table saw. More likely, however, is that the back half of the groove will need to be trimmed off such that is lays over the tongue (this is how you install the last piece on a flooring project too by the way).

On the Porch: Installing a Beadboard Ceiling

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Must-Have Tools for 2011

Mark Clement — 2011-01-01T08:03:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Year after year tool companies find ways to make tools better, easier to use, safer, or just more useful. Some years see gradual improvements, but this year has seen some blow-out game-changers that have become Must-Haves for 2011.

Photos: Hyde, Bosche, Select

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Must-Have Tools 2011

Select Step stepladder from Little Giant reinvents the category. It can do more -- in more places -- than any other ladder we've seen. It all starts with the individually articulated front and back legs. While you'll probably see this demonstrated most often by someone setting it up on a stair case, the reality is that such a position may be the last thing you use it for. Need to clean the gutters or hang holiday lights on the second floor? Set the rear legs lower than the front to match the pitch of the roof. Need to reach a tree branch but the ground is sloped? Again, set the ladder to match the terrain. Need to work in a corner installing a light fixture? Lean the ladder in, rather than craning your body over the top of a ladder. Speaking of light fixtures, our electrician almost stole this ladder from us he loved it so much. He loved the platform for holding stuff called the Air Deck. It's big, so you can hold anything from a paint can to ceiling fan to nailer and you can set it such that the Air Deck is in front of you like a tray. Very handy. Air Deck even has a magnetized spot for holding fasteners -- genius. When you're done, Air Deck stows away inside the rails of the ladder. Finally, and this may be the best part, the ladder is a 5, 6, 7, and 8-foot stepladder all in one. Stable and secure at all heights. It's great.

Little Giant SelectStep

Must-Have Tools 2011

Hyde Tools 10-in-1 is based on what's traditionally called a 5-in-1. It's typically a painter's tool, but we've carried them on MyFixitUpLife projects for years. We could go on about the uses of the tools from opening paint cans -- the right way! -- to using them as wedges, scrapers, gouges, levers, and stuffer-inners for everything from molding to insulation. But Hyde triple-jumped the rest of the 5-in-1s out there with the addition of a screwdriver. The handle accepts a driver bit -- 4 bits neatly store in the handle -- and enables us to remove switch plates or quickly tighten some door hardware without having to either carry or look for a typical screwdriver. Time saved. Top Tool status earned.

Must-Have Tools 2011

Ridgid JobMax is a whole new family of tools. Since the patents expired on Fein's MultiMaster oscillating tool, the rest of the tool world has been feverishly jumping into the space with new introductions to tap into this once untouchable market. Ridgid -- available at The Home Depo -- bided their time getting after this, but when they got to the field (or store shelf) they were ready to play. Their innovation was to use the oscillating tool platform to launch a family of tools powered by a single 12 volt, lithium ion battery and tool motor onto which you can swap different heads--the first of which is an oscillating tool. Also available are a right angle drill and ratchet head--with more coming in 2011. The key here is that you buy the motor once then buy less expensive--but no less useful--attachments.

Must-Have Tools 2011

Grace Bondera may not be a "new" tool, but bear with us for a second. Bondera makes our list because of the impact it has on the tools we already use -- both in how we'll use them and how we won't use them. Totally oversimplifying the technology that went into Bondera's development, it's simply double-sided tape. Bondera's back side sticks to the wall or counter and tiles stick to the front side. What this means is that whenever we tile a backsplash or countertop or shower wall (it's waterproof so you don't need cement board in a shower in many instances) we don't need to set-up or apply messy thinset mortar (some people call this 'mastic'). And because tiles can be installed with zero drying time, we can grout the same day. We can use Bondera for craft projects, too, everything from trivets to candy wreaths to who-knows-what?

Must-Have Tools 2011

Stanley Tools Clamping Flashlight is not a multi-tasking tool that tries too much. Stanley's Clamping Flashlight combines a basic spring clamp with an articulating head flashlight. This solves more problems than I think they realized. First, the clamp makes sense on our projects and in our lives. The clamp enables us to place the flashlight where we need it -- and keep it there, on a fencepost or tucked under my arm. We can see logs in the firewood stack on short winter days. During the summer, however, we placed a cooler out past the porch light's radius. No big whoop; we clamped the flashlight to the fence and, voila, instant bright light all night. But if you're under a sink the clamp acts as a base which holds the light still. If you need to move the light--and not the tool--you can do that too because the lamp both rotates and articulates. You can peek into a dark joist bay to follow a wire or see if a dryer vent pipe can make it through; or clip the body of the light to something as small as a pipe or (I really did this) coaxial cable running up the side of a house, then position the light where you need it. Long run-time and a gentle but bright light buys you a extra minutes of work on short winter days, lights up dark spots, or points you to party central.

Must-Have Tools 2011

The Bosch Glider Gliding Miter Saw is a 12 inch slider is generally a pro tool--and one is at the hub of just about every project we do from decks to kitchens, frame to finish. The category has seen incredible upgrades over the years, yet one thing that has remained constant is that the saw's cutter-head slides on rails. For saws that see a tremendous amount of use (including being caught in the rain) stuff eventually works its way between the rollers and rails, slowing them down. For other users--notably those set up in small shops or workspaces--those rails often require upwards of 12 inches behind the saw to travel. So that means if you want your saw against a wall (and where else would you put it other than a wall in a small workspace) it has to be about 1 foot away from the wall--as does the bench its on. The result is that you can't use that space for much other than air. Moreover, the space in front of the saw is consumed too because you need to stand in it. So if you have an 8 foot long work bench, you need about 8 square feet of air on either side of the bench to accommodate rails and you. The Bosch Glide's innovation is that the saw's cutter-head moves not on rails but on a hinged armature the company calls Axial Glide. This armature requires zero inches behind the saw which means you get that footprint of shop space back. That alone is huge. The cut capacity has been increased as well, which in combination with a tall fence, enables you to cut larger base and crown than in previous models. Bosch's new saw glides its way to more work in less space.

Must-Have Tools 2011

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The World's Best Snow Shovel

Mark Clement — 2010-12-29T11:01:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Sorry, but I have very little to good to say about no-name snow shovels. I do have a lot of nice things to say about a "grain scoop" or a "coal shovel" -- which should be known as the Best Snow Shovel.

Ordinary snow shovels are terrible at getting under compacted (think walked or driven on) snow. They're useless on ice or frozen snow. If you only get snow on one side of the T-Shaped blade, it's so out-of-balance that the thing simply spins out of your hand. They're no good for "plowing" light snow. They're flexible and fragile and the handles break easily. .

Turns out, a shovel I discovered quite by accident is the best snow shovel I have ever used.

Grain Scoop or Coal Shovel
Durable, rugged and able to move a mountain of wet, dry, freezing or anywhere-in-between snow. This so-called "grain scoop" or "coal shovel" (depending who you're talking with) is a shovel you can buy at your local home center. Check out this aluminum one here; though you can also find plastic ones. You've probably seen one before and didn't realize. We use this same shovel for cleaning up messes on projects throughout the year, whether it's plaster and debris from remodeling, leaves in the spring or fall, or making a molehill out of bark mulch mountain this tool is with us in all seasons. Heck, I've even seen people use them cleaning up after Fido.

Why It's The Best:

1. The scoop is stout. That means after snow is compacted from walking or driving, it has enough rigidity to break up that cake of snow. And so is the the handle. Had several of these for years and in year round use. Never even came close to breaking one. Shovel 2; Snow 0.

2. The scoop is big-with sides. If you have to pick up the snow and move it somewhere -- say over a garden wall or over the previous storm's snow bank -- you can. Powdery snow stays in the scoop (mostly) while the sides help cut up through wet (we call it "snowball snow") snow so you can again get a heap you can manage. Shovel 3; Snow 0.

3. The scoop is also in-line with the handle. I don't think a single scoop of snow has ever twisted out of my hand. Shovel 4; Snow 0.

4. The scoop is wide. If you decide that "plowing" your snow using the shovel is the ticket, the sides of the shovel make moving snow much more effective. Instead of leaving trails behind both sides of the shovel it actually moves snow. This isn't always the most effective way-it's not a snow plow-but it can work in some cases (like when you get just a few inches of light snow or you're shoving the what's left of the snow-bank left by the city plow back into the street.) Shovel 5; Snow 0.

5. The scoop gets under the snow. Because the shovel is short-handled, the blade lays flatter to the ground-where it needs to be to be effective. Kind of like the iron in a low-angle block plane, the scoop hits the snow more parallel to the ground than other shovels, giving it a better chance to break snow loose from the asphalt or grass (yes, we have to shovel paths around our house, some of which has us shoveling grass) or concrete.

Final Score: Shovel 6; Snow 0.

For an example of an ergonomic model for your shoveling needs, check out this video:

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Snow Removal: What to Do After a Blizzard

Mark Clement — 2010-12-27T14:21:00 00:00

Filed under: Know-How, Outdoors

From digging out your car to insulating your home, here are tips and snow removal tricks to make life easier after a blizzard.

When the weather outside is frightful, take steps to make snow removal easier. Photo: Scott SM, Flickr

After being buried in the blizzard of 2010, residents of the Northeast are once again preparing to dig themselves out of as much as 1-2 feet of snow. Meanwhile, much of the Southeast is still iced over from a chilling winter storm that slammed the region on Sunday and Monday. In the midst of all this frightful winter weather, here are tips to make life during the big dig easier to manage.

Sidewalks and Stairs
Without a doubt, the sun makes for the best snow melter. Get out early and shovel sidewalks and stairs so that post-blizzard sunlight can warm up the pavement beneath. Doing this will prevent ice from forming and slippery walks. Salt-based compounds like Blizzard Wizard and Driveway Heat can also help melt icy patches. Apply overnight to prevent melting snow from refreezing. Be careful not to over apply de-icers, as these products can corrode sidewalks and damage plants.

Photo: Chimothy27, Flickr

Mailbox
Make your mailman's life easier and cut a trail for him to swing closer to the mailbox.

Fire Hydrant
If snow has covered the fire hydrant on your street, take the time to clear it and the surrounding area. This will enable firefighters to locate the hydrant easily in case of an emergency.

Trash and Recycling
Unlike the picturesque snow fall depicted in holiday cards, snow storms usually include howling wind. And when wind howls, it blows stuff around such as trash can lids and snow drifts. If trash day is coming up, you don't want to drag a load of snow to the curb that will blow in your face, soak your garbage, make it heavy or leak sludge on your clothes when carrying the can. Avoid this by shoveling the snow off the top of trash cans and recycle bins.

Prepare for Snowbanks
As clean as you make your driveway, there's a good chance a city plow will deposit a snowbank in front of it no matter what. Try shoveling a small track for your car's wheels so you can get in and out of your driveway easily. Also, position the car in the driveway so that the back faces your house. This way you'll have a clear view as you navigate the snow bank.

Cars
Brush snow off cars and make sure to clear the snow off car roofs. This will prevent potential accidents caused by huge slabs of snow flying off your car roof when traveling on the highway. A push-broom will make the job easy and sweep off the snow in a few minutes. Some push brooms have metal brackets around the bristle head. To keep from scratching vehicles, wrap duct tape around this material to help protect your car's paint.

Wipers
The easiest things to mangle when cleaning snow from the car are the wipers. To clean more efficiently, fold them back from the windshield before the snow falls. This will make cleaning the car after the storm much easier. If you forget, make sure the wipers are de-iced from the glass before turning them on. Doing this will protect the rubber blades.

Turn Off the Water
If you haven't turned off the water supply to your outside hoses, a foot of snow should serve as a pretty good reminder that you shouldn't wait anymore. The dangers of not turning off the water include frozen pipes that break or bend from the ice buildup.

Seal Your Windows and Doors
A snow storm's high winds can find its way through cracks and crevices in your house, so make sure to seal those openings with weatherstripping. This will keep your home warm and reduce your heating bills. Also, check the bottoms of doors (especially in old houses) to see if there is a gap beneath the bottom of the door sweep and the floor. If there is one present, get a new sweep or adjust the one that's there now.

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Power Tools: Should You Rent or Buy?

Mark Clement — 2010-12-17T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Is that power tool worth the investment, or will it end up being a colossal waste of time and space? DIY pro Mark Clement of MyFixItUpLife makes the tough decisions about 10 popular power tools so you don't have to.

When it comes to purchasing some power tools, renting will always be a better option than buying. Photo: Dougww, Flickr

Before you go on your next home-improvement shopping spree, ask yourself: do you really need to buy that reciprocating saw?

That's not to say you don't need to use the tool, but maybe you don't need to actually purchase it. In some cases, it actually makes more sense to rent a substantial power tool than it does to buy. Stores like The Home Depot and Lowe's charge by the hour, half-day, full day, week and even by the month for tool rentals. There's usually a wide selection of professional-quality, name brand tools at your disposal.

Prior to renting, make sure you have a firm understanding of how long your project will take or how often you predict on using a tool in the long run. Miscalculating and opting to rent tools frequently or for an extended period of time can mean shelling out more money than if you had simply bought the items outright.

So, when it comes to large power tools, how do you know if something is a worthy investment or just a big waste of money and space? This road map should help you navigate the home improvement aisle.

TOOLS YOU SHOULD BUY
These five power tools can be used on a variety of projects, giving you the most bang for your buck. Take them home because they're for keeps.

Photo: Jupiterimages

- Cordless Drill/Hammerdrill: When it comes to drilling and driving, you'll get more mileage out of an 18 volt drill/hammerdrill than anything else. It's got enough "umph" for drilling 5/8-inch holes in deck framing or 1-inch holes for plumbing or electrical projects, as well as setting windows, cabinets or drywall screws. Plus, you can switch to a hammer function and drill small holes for concrete anchors, ideal for hanging anything from a heavy mirror or artwork to a mailbox and garden hose reel. This versatile drill eliminates the need for multiple tools, so it's a must-have.

- 7 1/4-inch Circular Saw: From cutting shelf blanks for a linen closet to building gates, the circular saw is the go-to cutting tool. Compact, versatile and powerful, a circular saw can go where other tools can't and gets results others simply don't. The MyFixitUpLife circular saw is a professional worm drive gear. It's heavy, and some might find it awkward to use, but there are other lighter and just as powerful options, such as the less expensive sidewinder.

A portable table saw proves to be an indispensable tool. Photo: RIGID Professional Tools

- Portable Table Saw. This table saw is one of the most useful tools in your workshop -- no matter how big or small that workshop may be. Is building a jewelry box, wagon, shelf on your DIY to-do list? A table saw proves to indispensable for these small projects, as well as bigger jobs like flooring, thresholds, fences, framing and more. Great for beginning DIYers and workshops with limited space, the market offers a wide variety of portable saws - some costing less than $200. For aspiring woodworkers, try using a premium blade rather than the one that comes packaged with the saw. The one provided with the saw is a rough-construction blade and leaves swirl marks that you'll have to sand out.

Compressor and Finish Nailer Photo: Stanley Bostitch

- Miter Saw. Precision cutting is what the miter saw does best, especially when it comes to making accurate 90-degree crosscuts. This versatile saw is great for a wide variety of jobs, such as cutting window trim, decorative trim molding, and two-by-fours.There are a lot of different configurations and price points for miter saws on the market. Some models pivot and some tilt to make compound angle cuts. Built-in blade guards make miter saws safer than other power cutters. As a good rule of thumb, buy the best model you can afford. The more you plan to use the saw, the higher quality it should be. The tool can prove to be indispensable in every step of a project, from frame to finish.

- Compressor and Finish Nailer. A nail gun completes a job in the fraction of the time it would take the traditional hammer and nail. There are several very well-appointed compressor/nailer kits on the market that you can use on every trim project from installing base and crown molding to chair rails, flooring and more. The kits come complete with with compatible tools, hoses, and couplings, including a blow-gun attachment to blow dust and clean debris out. If you expect to do a lot framing, buy a larger compressor. After which, you can then buy or rent (around $35 per day) a framing nailer as needed. Your compressor and nailer will make installing trim and other projects proceed smoothly, quicker and accurately.

TOOLS YOU SHOULD RENT
The decision to rent often boils down to how often you plan to use the tool in question. Here are tools that may end up collecting dust in your workshop (no matter how cool they'll look while they do it), so it's more cost-effective to rent them an as-needed basis.

Photo: DEWALT Tools

- Reciprocating Saw. If you're a heavy-duty DIYer -- routinely installing a kitchen or bath, gutting an entire room, putting in a skylight and so forth -- you'll need a reciprocating saw. But if you do larger projects once in a blue moon (or never), you can get by without owning one. For trim, flooring, installing hanging new doors, shingles, building a shed or retaining wall, a reciprocating saw just isn't necessary. It's better to rent one on those rare occasions when you need it.

Rent: Laser level (Photo: DeWalt Tools)

- Flooring Nailer. Wood flooring is a very popular DIY project. Lots of floors (think solid hardwood (raw or pre-finished) and engineered products (such as a plywood backer with a hardwood veneer) are nailed down. The tool that accomplishes this, a flooring nailer or stapler, is not something readily used for other projects. So once you're done with your floors, well, you're done with the tool. A high-quality nailer can cost upwards of $400, but if you rent one from your local Home Depot or Lowe's you're looking at only about $55 for 24 hours.

- Laser Levels. Beefier types of levels are ideal for shooting even lines for a kitchen cabinet replacement, suspended ceiling or deck project. You can also use them for laying out basement wall plate locations. While prices for these tools have plummeted, they're still not free. The very accurate lasers feature sophisticated servo motors or pendulums, and are better used for large renovation projects that include installing floors or sloping walks and driveways. For smaller laser levels that can be used for leveling a row of photo frames or painting stripes, opt to buy. These laser levels are available at low retail prices, and can be utilized in various home projects that require a straight line.

- Roofing Nailer. Most DIY roofing projects are one-day, weekend, or one-and-done projects. Unless you see yourself re-roofing lots of square footage around the house, go with a rental here.

- Concrete Tools. Rotary hammers (sometimes called "combination hammers" because they drill and chip) are enormously efficient and powerful tools, specialized for drilling larger holes effortlessly and breaking thick concrete and masonry. Rotary hammers can also be used to break up rock-hard clay and dig post holes. Concrete tools are pricey, so unless you've got a mountain of work to complete or plan on using them regularly, it's more cost-effective to rent.

SEE ALSO:
10 Free Services at Home Depot
Building Your DIY Tool Box (Design*Sponge)
Tool Rentals at Home Depot (Apartment Therapy)

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Drive A Screw Like A Pro

Mark Clement — 2010-12-03T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Tools, Essential Skills, Know-How

Ever wish you knew a carpenter's secrets to driving screws perfectly every time? We did too -- so we asked one. Here's what he revealed about this tricky technique.

Photo: grendelkhan, Flickr

Here's a scenario that may sound familiar: You're using a drill/driver to drive a screw into drywall or wood when the bit at the tip of the tool just starts spinning inside the screw's head....thuda-thuda-thuda. Before you know it, the screw head is stripped and you have to start over.

Well, I've got good news and bad news. The bad news is that once you hear your driver making that sound, that means head's been s stripped (also called "reamed" in carpenter lingo), and the screw is pretty much unusable. The good news is that once you know the right way to drive a screw, you'll never have this problem again.

GETTING STARTED
Many people struggle with getting the screw threads started in the first place. They do everything right in terms of holding the power driver and applying firm, consistent, in-line pressure, but the screw tip just skates on the surface of the wood instead of augering down. Frustrated, people often push too hard and tip the screw over.

One solution is easy and works particularly well in drywall. Hold the screw to the driver tip with your thumb and index finger about 3/4 inch from the work surface. Then, all at once, push the tool and screw into the work surface firmly, jabbing the screw tip in. It doesn't take much force at all, but it's a great way to sink the screw threads enough to catch once you pull the driver's trigger. This method works well on soft-woods too, and obviously, works better with sharper screws (some screw tips are sharper than others.)

STAYING IN LINE
Once you've gotten the screw started, it can be tricky to keeping it going. Here's how to keep the screw straight and steady as you work: Imagine a line passing from the screw tip up through the bit holder, through the tool and passing right over the top of your fist as you pull the tool's trigger. Hold this line straight and the screw should move directly into the surface.

It doesn't much to get for the hinge point between the driver tip and the screw head to get out of line. The good news is that misalignment is easy to fix once you can feel it happening.

Are You Not Using Enough Pressure?
Some people simply don't apply enough pressure to keep the driver bit in constant contact with the screw head the deeper it goes. Say you're driving a 3-inch deck screw. It goes in fine for the first inch or two but then...thuda-thuda-thuda. What happened?

The resistance (friction) inside the wood increases as more steel sinks inside it, which requires a commensurate increase in pressure from you to keep the tool in contact with the fastener. Solution, stay in-line and press harder. You'll get the hang of it.

Are You Using Too Much Pressure?
If you tip screws often or drive them too deep, you're pressing too hard. Ease back the pressure just a little.

TRIGGERING
Some people are too tentative with the trigger, fearing misalignment or overdrives (a bigger problem in drywall and cabinet projects where you need to set the screw just so). The solution is to pull trigger in short bursts, also known as "goosing" the trigger. Pull the trigger all the way, then let go all the way. There is too much resistance between the wood and the steel to drive a screw slowly in most cases, so go in quick bursts of full-on, full-off and you'll eventually get the hang of it and be able to set a screw just right.

REPLACING THE DRIVER TIP
Driver tips don't often break, but they do wear out. After a lot of steel on steel contact, the driver tip gets slippery. If you used to be able to drive a screw, but now the tip of the driver seems to skate inside the screw head, it's probably time for a new tip. You can often recognize a worn tip just by its appearance; driver tips are usually pretty shiny compared with the rest of the steel.

PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
It might seem strange to practice driving screws like you're practicing free-throws, but technique is technique. Grab a box of screws and some scrap 4 x 4 and have at it. One reason carpenters get super proficient at these kinds of things isn't because we're magic, but because of our repetition. We drive pounds of screws per day, every week.

Here's the challenge: Now that you know where you might be going wrong -- and keep in mind you may be having more than one problem at once -- the key is to put all the solutions together so you solve problems on the fly and learn to drive screws like a pro.

Want to ask me a something about DIY technique? Leave your question in the comments below, and I may address it in a future post!

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Fall Lawn Repair: Top Dressing and Re-Seeding

Mark Clement — 2010-10-20T12:05:00 00:00

Filed under: Patios, Porches & Decks, Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Many things damage, dent, and render dormant a flat, lush lawn during its growing season. The secret to fall lawn repair? Top dressing and re-seeding. Here's how it works.

Getty Images

Summer does a number on your lawn. Anything from removing a shrub to parking a car to letting Sparky go for a run to leaving the Slip N' Slide out too long can turn a blanket of lush green grass into a collection of crushed and dried-up blades. Luckily, a technique known as top dressing -- coupled with a re-seeding of the lawn -- can help undo the damage.

While the top-dressing technique can be used any time of year, for most regions, fall is the best season. In most places, fall brings cooler temperatures, and many grasses grow better in cool weather. Plus, if you can get the grass to sprout in the fall you can put your lawn on a complete fertilizing schedule come spring without worrying about new seed. We realize that the actual season is different in, say, Vermont than Virginia, so let's just say that some time around when the kids go back to school is a good target for getting this project underway.

Top dressing is a good solution for small and large lawn repairs. It's relatively inexpensive and easy to DIY. But first, let's review the basic categories of lawn damage:

Lawn Damage: Suffocation
If the lawn can't breath, the grass dies. Culprits include trash bags, sheet plastic and kids' toys. Say you're remodeling or or doing some kind of attic or yard cleanup. If you stage a row of plastic trash bags on the grass for a bunch of weeks while you amass enough for the dump run, the lawn below it can die. Furthermore, if the contents of those bags are heavy (see 'impact' below) -- think asphalt shingles, landscape debris, and plaster -- they can dent and compress the turf. You'll get the same effect if you leave the plastic kiddie pool, Slip 'N Slide, or sand box in the same place all summer. Even if you lay out sheet plastic for an outdoor painting project, you expect suffocated grass. Sometimes it'll come back, but you have to catch it in time.

Lawn Damage: Impact
Impact injuries, large and small, occur most easily when the turf is saturated, like it is after a few days of rain. Parked cars, heavy equipment (like a truck or tractor), foot traffic, bicycles -- all of these can dent, divot and damage grass.

Lawn Damage: Excavation
Removing things from the grass can cause big damage to the lawn, and it often takes a little time for this damage to show up. Say you remove a shrub or a tree from the lawn. Once the hole is re-filled and re-seeded, and the earth settles over time, you're left with a deep hole or small divot that's sometimes called an 'ankle twister.' If you run outdoor wiring, it's typical that a trench should be excavated about 24 inches deep (and the wire run in conduit). Once that trench is re-filled, expect the soil to settle several inches. The same can often happen around improperly back-filled deck, pergola, and fence posts or other areas where the yard has been dug up like a retaining wall.

Top Dressing and Re-Seeding, Step by Step
The basic ingredients for top dressing a lawn are pretty simple: healthy soil, seed, fertilizer, and water. As for tools, a shovel, wheelbarrow, and steel rake should cover it. Here's how we do it.

Mark Clement

Step 1: Import Soil.
Whether it comes by bucket, barrow or bag, pile loose, healthy top soil in or around the damaged area. For soil that has a lot of clay, mix in some organic matter like peat moss and cow manure to keep it soft.

Mark Clement

Step 2: Spread Soil.
Spread the soil using a steel rake, adding soil as necessary to fill low spots. For soil that has lots of clumps that gather in the rake tines, flip the rake upside down. Spread evenly.

Mark Clement

Step 3: Use the Rake Handle.
Since "even" can be hard to see, use the rake as a guide to be sure you've filled in a larger depression.

Step 4: Stone and Bone.
If there are any, the rake will pull uproot rocks (stones) and roots (bones) within the soil. Pull them to the edge and remove them. For the clumps of soil that'll come with them, use the rake to stamp them back into regular dirt, leaving a nice, feathered edge of soft soil.

Mark Clement

Step 5: Seed.
My wife Theresa and I have had luck with Scotts PatchMaster, while doing projects over at the MyFixitUpLife. It's more expensive than a paper-bag of seed from the hardware store, but its comes pre-blended with optimum amounts of seed, starter fertilizer and -- what may be the best part -- mulch. The mulch holds the main ingredient of a successful lawn repair...

Step 6: Water.
Many-a-homeowner is frustrated with lawn repair because they don't water enough. And when the seeds don't get enough water it either takes forever for them to come up (fueled by rain or ground water), they come up in patches, or they don't come up at all.

We like to put a lot of water down -- but apply it gentl y-- so we use a standard garden hose and our fireman's nozzle for a high-volume yet gentle shower. When watering, the key is to soak the ground without washing the seed away. This takes a few minutes with a hose, which we like to do twice a day. In other words, you want wet soil beneath the grass seeds so the root system is attracted down to the water. Apply too little and the roots don't grow deep because all the water is at the surface.

What's your lawn repair advice?

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Installing Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Set-Up

Mark Clement — 2010-10-01T17:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

Cutting molding is a common source of frustration for DIYers. Achieving perfect angles is no easy feat. In part one of this three-part installment on crown molding, home improvement pros Mark and Theresa Clement of one of our favorite DIY sites, MyFixItUpLife, demonstrate how to set the stage for precise cuts every time.

Mark and Theresa Clement, MyFixItUpLife

My wife Theresa and I have given demonstrations on installing crown molding from Baltimore to the Bay Area and back again, and we find that many people share the same frustrations cracking the crown code. Even if they've mastered other moldings, like chair rail or door casing, crown can be utterly befuddling.

The main challenge we face with crown is that, unlike flat-backed moldings, crown occupies a third dimension in space (called the "spring-angle") that complicate things.

Dealing with the spring-angle requires serious mental gymnastics. But beyond that, cutting, measuring and installing crown even halfway decently requires technical precision. No need to sweat it, though. In this crown molding series, we'll show you how we set up, cut and install crown molding to get professional results.

The first key to cracking the code on crown molding is a building workbench that works, which is what we cover in this first installment of the series. The good news is that while the workbench we build below is ideal for crown molding (and one we use on our pro job sites), easy to make, inexpensive as all get-out, and can be easily disassembled and stored if, for example, your workshop competes for space with your family car.

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Cutting Crown Molding: Tool Setup

STEP 1. Place saw horses about 6 feet apart.

Mark and Theresa Clement, My Fix-It-Up Life

Cutting Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Setup

STEP 1. Place saw horses about 6 feet apart.

Cutting Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Setup

STEP2. Bridge with three 8-foot 2x4s or 2x6s laid flat. Place them front, middle, and back. Screw each 2x4 or 2x6 to each sawhorse with one screw.

Cutting Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Setup

STEP 3. Place a sheet of 3/4 plywood or OSB on top of 2-by. At this point in the process you're now set up with a super-rugged -- yet easy to break down and store -- work bench suitable for all kinds of projects from decks to flooring. Note: an ideal work bench is a full-sheet (4x8) but if your horses are small you don't want to make the unit top-heavy and prone to tipping. Good news: the fix is easy. Simply rip 1-foot off the edge of the plywood for a smaller, more stable top.

STEP 4. Screw the plywood down to the 2-by (one in each corner works fine.)

STEP 5. You need a miter saw to cut crown. While this work was once done with muscle-powered saws most people are going to plug-in for this and use a power miter saw. Place the saw in the front/center of the table surface. To test if you've got it in the best spot, swing the blade right and left. If you can swing the blade without scraping your knuckles--and the entire saw-base in on the table--then screw the saw down to the table.

STEP 6. Lay a straight-edge like a level on your miter saw deck. Measure from the table to the bottom of the straight-edge. It'd be awesome if this measurement were 3 1/2 inches and you could simply use a 2x4 for the next step, but the reality is that it'll be some odd ball measurement that you'll need to rip from larger stock on your table saw. My saw, for example is, 3 5/8 inches which I ripped from a 2x6.

Cutting Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Setup

STEP 7. On the table saw, rip 4 to 6 blocks, about 16 inches long, to the measurement found in Step 6.

STEP 8. From beneath the table, drive 2 screws through the plywood and into each block. Make sure to get a solid connection. (If the block wobbles easily, the connection isn't solid.)

Cutting Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Setup

Working neat makes life easier. If you're in a wrestling match with a Hydra of extension cords you're not able to concentrate on what you're doing--and mistakes happen more readily. We try and prevent those problems before they start with two workbench tricks that--combined--take about 60 seconds to set up.

A maze of cords snaking from plugs all over your house will power your tools and chargers, but it takes 10 seconds to screw a multi-plug to the leg of the saw horse (we use a Belkin; 20 outlets, awesome) and now you're ready to roll.

Cutting Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Setup

Another sneaky trick for outsmarting cords is to drill a hole in the table behind the miter saw. Drop the saw's plug through and plug it into your multi-. Easy. The cord on my router is also long enough that I can run it through the same hole.

Cutting Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Setup

STEP 9. Place a piece of crown flat on your saw deck and cut a piece about 32 inches long, square on each end. This is your "test piece, " which you'll use throughout the crown molding process. Next, determine which edge is the top and which is the bottom. (Note: The tight turns of a crown profile are typically at the bottom. The long, swooping curves are at the top.)

STEP 10. Place the test piece upside down between your saw deck and fence (the fence is the vertical portion of the saw against which the molding rests), in a nested position.

STEP 11. Very carefully make sure the flat portions of the molding are perfectly flat against both the deck and fence. Once they're flat (check both sides of the saw) draw a pencil line on the saw deck and fence at the top and bottom of the crown molding.

Cutting Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Setup

Step 12. Now it's time to remove the crown molding and attach a 1x8 cleat over the miter saw deck to the wood blocks for stability (this is one of the benefits of building this crown molding setup). The cleat's purpose is to hold the molding in the correct position for cutting, to ensure accuracy. Place a 1x8 cleat about 8 feet long on the saw deck and nudge it carefully up to the line. Make sure it is running dead-straight on the line. Once it is, mark the tops of your 2-by blocks left and right.

Screw the cleat down to the line.

Cutting Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Setup

STEP 13. When you're ready to cut, the flat portions on the back side of the crown must be flat against the saw -- in every cut -- or the angle will be off. Drop your test piece in between the cleat the and fence. Now, for every cut hereafter, you have a perfect, no-nonsense, accurate cut.

Cutting Crown Molding, Part 1: Tool Setup

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DIY-Friendly Upgrades, No Demo Required

Mark Clement — 2010-09-28T13:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Products & Materials, Small Spaces, Patios, Porches & Decks, Living Spaces, Outdoors

Don't you wish you could just cover up some of your home's ugliest eyesores? Now you can, with these new products that install directly over existing surfaces.

I recently attended The Remodeling Show, an annual trade show for building industry professionals. It's a great place to check out some of the newest and up-and-coming building products, and this year's show in Maryland didn't disappoint.

One of my favorite trends at the show were building materials designed to install directly over your home's most offensive eye sores -- no demolition required. Yep, you can skip the effort and mess involved in ripping out your old deck, moldings, stairs and more with these ingenious, instant cover-ups. They're about as DIY-friendly as it gets.

Profekt Decks

ProFektDecks
The average life expectancy of some decks can be a short as 10 years, according to deck structure experts. But the bigger problem is that many of them show cosmetic wear long before that. The combination of sun and moisture wreak havoc on the boards, which start to "check" (long cracks down the length of the board), flake, and wiggle loose from the nails or screws holding them down. And -- even if they're in good shape -- they require at least biannual cleaning and staining to keep them in top condition.

Sound like an intense maintenance routine? You might want to consider installing ProFekt Decks. The PVC material acts as a "cap" for unsightly deck boards. It comes in four colors, looks just like real wood, and is easy to clean with mild soap and water. ProFekt ships in 40-foot rolls that you apply like laminate flooring: you adhere it directly to the original deck with polyurethane construction adhesive, a few nails and a rentable 100-pound flooring roller. And the material is rugged; it's protected with a 15-year warranty against rot, splinters, splits, checks, and termite damage.

ProFekt Decks makes a similar product for concrete patios and sunrooms. You can also use their products on picnic tables, docks, and benches that need a face lift.

Empire Cover Trim

Empire Cover Trim
The first step of a trim upgrade -- even the most basic job -- is always to remove the existing molding. You've got to cut caulk beads, pry away the wood, and then dispose of it somewhere. And only then can you start installing the new trim.

Building product manufacturer Empire hopscotches the expensive, time-consuming and messy removal phase. Their product, Cover Trim, installs right over existing builder-grade moldings. The environmentally friendly material is made from post-consumer materials and comes in exciting and nicely proportioned base molding, door/window casing and even crown molding designs You can miter Empire's Cover Trim or use transition blocks in the corners so all your cuts only have to be square.

Young Manufacturing

RetroTread
Stairs are often the centerpiece to a home. But constant foot traffic takes its toll over time. When stairs are covered in dingy carpet -- and that carpet covers structural framing like plywood treads and risers -- it's easy to feel like your only cover-up choice is new carpet. Young Manufacturing's RetroTread is a refreshing alternative to carpet runners for staircases.

While at the high end of the DIY difficulty spectrum, RetroTread comes in 6 real hardwood species (red oak, white oak, hard maple, poplar, hickory, and Brazilian cherry) and installs over existing builder-grade stair treads. The product does require prep work (notably cutting the nosing off the existing stair tread if there is one) and some careful carpentry during installation. You also need a sliding miter saw and table saw to trim the pieces to fit just right. Choose from plain rounded treads or treads with more elegant nosings.

Pole Wrap

Pole-Wrap
Painted structural beams, most commonly found in the basement, are an eyesore you ordinarily can't do much about. One eminently DIYable solution is Pole-Wrap. Because you cannot nail into a beam, Pole-Wrap is designed to install with construction adhesive.

Simply cut the material to length, wrap it around the post, and press to adhere it. Pole-Wrap is available in red oak, maple and cherry woods (each of which can be stained), or in paint-grade MDF (medium-density fiberboard).

Use a top and bottom trim piece (for the architecture geeks out there like me, a captial and a plinth) to clean up the edges. And, for basements that see a lot of socializing, Pole-Wrap makes a drink shelf that attaches to the pole seamlessly.

Would you try one of these DIY cover-ups to avoid demolition?

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