DIY Life

Build the ultimate dust collection system with a cyclone seperator

Tim Dickinson — 2007-10-31T16:00:00 00:00

Dust is a major problem in my shop and most home wood shops. My tiny shop has more dust than projects in it. Not only does my enormous "portable" wet/dry vac suck at sucking and is even worse at filtering, it's a major roadblock to sweeping up at the end of the day. I've long dreamed of buying one of those big suck-your-brains-out dust vacuums that they sell at tool centers. However, even those have bags for filters and I never liked the way the old household bag vacuums would billow dust every time you turned it on. I imagined that the big monsters probably did the same thing only more. That can't be good for the lungs!

Enter Bill Pentz, woodworker, geek, and DIYer extraordinaire. Bill designed and built his own dust collection system that out performs just about everything on the market. His system really sucks!!

Most manufactured dust collection systems available to the home woodworker provide miserably low air volume and static pressure. According to Bill, none of the dust collection systems available in retail outlets provide even half of the air flow necessary to actually keep the dust from escaping large tools like your table saw, planer, jointer, or router table. The dust that does get swallowed up is often just spit back out into the air. Many of the filters don't actually filter the size of particles they advertise. Of course, we all could have guessed that much of marketing departments! In addition, course sawdust and the inevitable chunks of debrit damage even the best cartridge filters. A cyclone seperator like Bill's keeps all but the tiniest particles from getting to the filter allowing it to last indefinitely.

The system Bill designed is based on the commercial units that use centrifugal force to separate out the dust and debris from the air, sending much cleaner air either through a filter or outside. Bill's is just better and a more reasonable scale for hobbyists and small shops. His plans call for 6" piping, a hallmark precision engineered cyclone separator, a whopping 18-22" impeller to move some serious air and a 5 hp 220V motor to power it! The materials will probably cost around the same price as one of those top-of-the-line dust billows with a bag filter available for retail.

This uber hobbyist doesn't have a marketing department, at least not for his woodworking hobby. But of course, he's protected his jillions of hours in development and testing by patenting his plans. So... nobody should get any ideas about helping themselves to his plans for their own entrepreneurial endeavors!

On his site Bill has plans and instructions for building the cyclone separator as well as guidelines for making your own mods to fit your shop needs. He also includes ideas and guidelines for custom or improved dust hoods for various tools in your shop. You'll need a little self confidence, some basic sheet metal tools, and a lot of free time to complete the project but for the avid hobbyist or small-time pro the health benefits (and bragging rights) to taking on this DIY challenge is enormous! Bill's instructions are clear and precise and claim that experience is not neccessary for this project.

For those DIYers who have a little less time and a little more money can purchase a very cool clear plastic version of Bill's cyclone design from Clear Vue Cyclones Inc. It might even be worth risking my DIY own reputation by buying a Clear Vue just for the coolness factor of getting to watch my dust and chips circle the drain at supersonic (almost) speeds! However, even the Clear Vue products are very customizable so you can adapt it to your unique shop setting and only include the seperator and blower so you'll still have/get to build the rest of your super-sucking system yourself. Your DIYness may still be safe with a Clear Vue!

Quick fix for dull wood floors

Tim Dickinson — 2007-10-26T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: fix-it, household hacks, flooring, wood working

Here's a quick DIY fix to get your deposit back when you move out of wood floored rental property or if you've invited everyone and their cousins over for a big party and realized that your wood floors look like ...well, you know. I came up with and have used this technique upon moving out of our last two rentals with great success. With this low cost, quick and genuine method, there'll be no need to completely refinish a gently worn wood floor by sanding and applying several coats finish just to get your money back (which would probably cost as much or more than your damage deposit in the first place).

All you need for this project is a small can of clear polyurethane (I prefer semi-gloss, but gloss could be appropriate too), a pair or two of nitrile gloves (I keep them stocked in the kitchen for handling meats), some clean smooth rags (that you will throw away), and your favorite mop (with a clean head). keeping a can of mineral spirits on hand is a good idea but hopefully you won't have to use it. A quart of polyurethane should be more than enough to do a two bedroom apartment with wood floors throughout.

With the apartment empty, thoroughly sweep the entire floor and then mop with the hottest plain water that is practical. The hot water will evaporate faster and keep the wood dry. Start at the furthest point from the exit and apply the polyurethane to the perfectly clean floor with a clean rag. Be sure to wear the nitrile gloves to avoid having to clean up with mineral spirits or other chemicals.

Work your way from the furthest points toward the door making sure to stay caught up by doing all the bedrooms and other out of the way places before sealing them off with wet finish in the hall. If your rag starts getting worn out wrap a new rag around the outside and continue. Wipe on the finish in a pattern that you can keep track of and can avoid rubbing up against edges that have started to dry and become tacky.

It is a really good idea to go all the way to the edges of the room to avoid a big shiny spot in the middle of the floor or even a dull border all the way around the room. When you get to the door work your self right out the door, close it and turn in your key the next day (so your landlords don't walk through the same day and step in wet finish). Your landlords will be duely impressed with how well you've maintained the gleaming floors and maybe not notice the toothpaste you used to patch those holes in the walls.

Now, before anyone jumps down my throat for proposing shoddy and unscrupulous tactics, I'd like to clarify the difference between true refinishing and my method. True refinishing of a floor is a long and tedious process which results in a pristine and durable finish that should last 5-8 years before needing to be redone. My method produces a far less durable finish overall but does fill in fine scratches in the finish and restores the original "gleam" that was probably advertised when you moved in. With either method that original gleam seldom lasts long anyway and, when done properly, my method does no harm to the floor or the overall functionality of the finish, it merely blends away some of the wear and tear you've already put on it. This will not work on badly worn or damaged floors but this method can help you keep knitt-picky landlords or gossipy guests happy with the state of your abode.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Pet mishap marinade: using vinegar to remove stubborn odors

Tim Dickinson — 2007-10-16T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: household hacks, in the kitchen, staying green, cleaning, pets

Nearly all pet owners have a dirty little secret that we all desperately want to keep under wraps: sometimes our perfectly trained, dander & body function free little people actually poop and pee other than in their prescribed locations ...only occasionally of course. Unfortunately, the tell-tale smell from these occasional mishaps can linger, well, forever.

Even after using various pet odor removing products that caution you against using them around animals a faint scent always remains to remind you and spill the beans to your guests that your cat or dog isn't perfect. I learned a simple, 100% effective, and all natural solution to even the foulest of pet odors by applying a little kitchen knowledge.

In addition to adding flavor, marinades are often used to tenderize tough cuts of meat. The reason marinades are so successful at tenderizing is because of the alcohol or vinegar inevitably present in all marinades. Alcohol or vinegar "denatures" (relaxes) the protein in the meat giving that nice break-apart-in-your-mouth (i.e. no-chewing-gum-anymore) texture.

Incidentally, protein is also responsible for the odor in urine (and other body products) and is THE most stubborn ingredient to remove from fibers. Imagine removing egg whites from your carpet. Soaking the affected surface in vinegar (you could use a nice dry white ...but that seems a waste) will denature the protein and allow it to be removed easily.

If your pet gets the floor often -- don't worry we won't tell -- keep a spray bottle with one part white vinegar with one part water handy and spritz spots until all the affected fibers (i.e. carpet) or the entire surface (i.e. wood) is damp. After it sits for bit (I like to give it at least 10 min.) you can pull the odor right out of the carpet by flushing the area with a little water and patting dry a 2 or 3 times. A wet/dry vacuum works great instead of towels.

If the offending odor is on clothes (either from the gym or a forgotten pile of laundry that your cat used out of convenience) then use your washing machine to marinade. Set the washer at its lowest water level or enough to cover, pour in a cup or two of vinegar and let it sit and think about it for a couple hours or so. The stronger the vinegar solution, the less time it will take but the more vinegar you'll go through. Once marinaded, drain the used marinade (for peace of mind), add some more clothes to make good use of the load, and run your washer like always. It's a good idea to test sniff clothes before popping into the dryer. If it didn't get all the way out the first time, the heat from the dryer will make it a little harder to remove (but never impossible).

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Build Green with Salvaged Materials

Tim Dickinson — 2007-10-15T16:00:00 00:00

Filed under: doors and windows, framing and drywall, staying green, flooring

All my friends know that I'm nuts, so they all take it in stride when I tell them about my plans for building green. While there are lots of cool green methods that are becoming popular among those with lots of space to spread out or few neighbors to have to look at it. However, for those of us who have neighbors to consider or, like me, have wacky ideas about building a brand new 100 year old Victorian, there are some more traditional building methods available that have green written all over it.

As Americans, one of the biggest insults we make to our environment is our wastefulness. The lumber used to build houses prior to 1940-ish was typically harvested from old growth forests and while we would never stand for that nowadays, the wood is better quality than you can find anywhere in any developed country.
From my own readings I've learned that a typical old growth 2X8 will have about the same structural qualities, such as span and sway, as a modern 2X10 (and it doesn't fall apart when wet like the OSB floor joists used in most new homes). When calculating building costs, that 2 in. less can really add up to lots of savings in exterior siding and stair runs for 2-story houses not to mention the peace of mind that you'll get knowing that you just kept a ton of good product out of the landfill and didn't cut down a bunch of trees to boot.

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of old houses that get demolished every day in this country. That translates to a lot of amazingly superior lumber and windows as well and beautifully timeless trim and other architectural accents being used to build and beautify our nation's landfills.

Most contractors hired to do the job are getting paid for building the new structure not getting rid of the old one so if someone were to ask permission to salvage the reusable materials they'll likely consider it one less thing to deal with and lower disposal costs. Often, contractors are held up by bureaucratic paperwork anyway so having someone tinker around on the property dismantling the doomed structure isn't going to hold them back from meeting deadlines any more than the city planning or commissioner's office will. All you need to do is ask.

If you decide to embark on this large scale DIY endeavor, you'll need to bring a lot of cordless tools including a reciprocating saw (a.k.a. "saws-all"), circular saw, & drill and lots of batteries. You must plan on the power already being disconnected so either make friends with the neighbors fast or bring a generator for large jobs. The property owner or contractor may agree to let you have everything you drag out for free in exchange for you disposing of the rest of it too, so be prepared to rent a roll off dumpster if appropriate.

Whatever arrangements are made, salvaging used materials from old buildings is a great way to save money and the environment. Just remember to be courteous, be safe, and of course do it yourself! That's what we DIYers live for!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Green Microwave Popcorn

Tim Dickinson — 2007-10-15T14:00:00 00:00

Filed under: food, household hacks, in the kitchen, staying green

A big roadblock to staying green in the kitchen is the amount of trash we generate. The amount of packaging that surrounds grocery products can overflow even the largest kitchen waste can in no time flat. How often do you have to empty your kitchen trash?

In my home we have a conservative five gallon can that sits out in the open next to the fridge. Our friends can't even find it because they're always looking for something much larger. They marvel that we don't fill it at least two or three times a day. But we've learned a few household hacks for the kitchen that have allowed us to reduce our waste considerably. By doing this throughout the house, we only need the garbage company to come once a month for our one alley can (but they still charge for the whole month!)
One source of waste for a lot of kitchens is quick and easy comfort food such as microwave popcorn. Imagine all that packaging just for one snack--the box, the plastic around the bag, the bag itself that is so gross it has no other use than to be thrown away. The chemicals for flavoring and "freshness" can't be good for us, or the environment either.

If you don't have space for one of those very cool electric air poppers, a healthy, green, DIY solution to microwave popcorn packaging is to make your own reusable packaging and use plain bulk popcorn; you can buy various colors in bulk from a health food store or just grab the under-a-buck one to two pound bag of the yellow stuff at your favorite mega-mart. Grab some brown paper lunch bags while you're at it. Oh yeah, and don't forget to stock up on staples (yeah, the metal kind)!

Dump a third of a cup scoop of popcorn kernels into a standard paper lunch bag. Fold over twice (so they don't escape) and fasten with two staples at least 2-3 inches apart. Wait! Stop! Metal in the microwave!? Yup. As long as you place the staples the requisite two to three inches apart, the wavelength of the microwaves is too long to hit one staple twice and too short to hit both of them at the same time--meaning your staples won't heat up any faster than the bag.

Put in the microwave and start for a 2-3 minute run (our microwave takes more like 4-5 minutes) and then listen. Remove when the pops have slowed down to five seconds apart. Pop out the staples (a staple remover stored next to the microwave is handy for popcorn lovers). Dump into your favorite munchy bowl and drizzle with melted butter or spritz with olive oil for a healthier alternative (with an exotic Mediterranean flavor). Sprinkle with salt (I like Kosher), sugar, parmesan cheese, whatever floats your boat.

The bag can be reused until it's so riddled with holes the staples don't do their job anymore. If you don't mind humiliating your child you can send lunch to school in what remains of the bag. A better alternative would be to run it through your shredder and add it to your compost pile. I first learned this hack from TV food guru Alton Brown's book I'm Just Here for the Food.

That's just one example. See what else you can do to eliminate waste and excessive packaging in the kitchen. It's a first step in going green.

Also, don't forget DIY Life's video on how to make pop-corn the old fashioned way.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Replace loose outlets in a flash (without the sparks!)

Tim Dickinson — 2007-10-05T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: fix-it, electrical

My wife I chose our last apartment based largely on the fact that the other tenants' complaints that the landlord never stopped by or cared much about the condition of the property. This was a welcome change from the pair of knit-picky, nosy, voyeuristic landladies we endured during our first years of marriage. However, that meant that minor home improvements were up to me if I wanted them done in a timely manor.

Most of the outlets in the apartment were so worn out that lamp cords would fall out the moment my hand let go. At best walking across the floor caused lights to flicker and the radio to shut off. Fortunately, fixing the problem is as easy as homemade sin and dirt cheap (so you don't have to worry about investing much pocket change into someone else's property).

All you need to do the deed is a 39¢ outlet from the hardware store (or Walmart's hardware dept.) and a #2 ("regular" size) flat screwdriver. Most electrical outlets are designed to accept both flat ( | ) and Philips ( + ) screwdrivers so if you have a Philips grab that too (it can be easier to use) but it's not necessary. A novice should expect to spend about 15 minutes from start to finish.
First, make sure you have access to the breaker that controls the electricity to your apartment. If you have access to the breakers for more than your own apartment you might knock on some doors in case you flip the wrong breaker or it affects neighboring apartments. If you have access to the breakers (legally you should) then plug in a light to the outlet and turn it on (use tape if necessary). This will be your signal that you found the right breaker. Now start trying breakers. If they're labeled go by the labels and if not proceed in an order that makes sense to you. Turn off one breaker and check to see if the light turned off. If it didn't that was the wrong one. Return to the panel, turn that one back on and try the next one. It is fairly important that you try breakers one at a time so the rest of your apartment and/or your neighbors aren't without electricity any longer than necessary. Once the light goes off you're in business.

Note: If there are six flights of stairs between the outlet and the breakers get a friend (at least someone who doesn't want you dead) to help and use your cell phones to find the right breaker. If there is any chance that someone might see the switched off breaker and turn it on again for you (just to be helpful of course), consider taping a note of warning to the panel.

With the right breaker off, unplug everything from the outlet and remove the faceplate (the slotted screw in the center). Now unscrew the two screws going through the metal tabs at the top and bottom of the outlet (you can use a Philips here). The outlet is now free from the box and can bee pulled a little ways out of the box.

Take some time to note which wires are connected to which side of the outlet. Black should be connected to a brass colored screw (or at least that side if it just sticks into the backside of the outlet) and white should be on the side of the silver screw. That's the rule but if it's arranged opposite and the outlet didn't blow up any electronics or cause other oddities before, don't swap sides now!

If the wires are attached on the side, unscrew the wires from one side (sometimes there are two per side) and attach them in the same manner to the corresponding side of your new outlet. Then do likewise with the other side.

If the wires disappear straight into the back of the old outlet you can usually remove them with a little twisting back and forth while you pull. This method of wiring is legal and done often but frowned upon by many electricians because they tend to slip out after a while. Pull out the wires from one side. To rewire the same way simply push the wires into the back of the new outlet on the corresponding side. To wire it the "right" way simply bend the exposed part of the wire around the shaft of your screw driver to make at least a 180º loop, loosen the appropriately colored screw on the new outlet, place the looped wire around the screw and tighten. Now do the other side.

Now unscrew the ground wire from the end of the old outlet and attach to the new one. If there is no ground wire (i.e. really old construction) then the metal tabs on either end will perform the same function when they're attached to a metal box.

Your new outlet is now wired! Screw the new outlet to the box just like the old one and replace the faceplate. Go flip on the breaker, plug in a light, and admire your handiwork!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments