DIY Life

Home Safety Tips For Travelers

Timothy Dahl — 2011-04-07T08:00:00 00:00

Planning for home safety while traveling is hardly the most thrilling thing -- but as far as preventative measures go , a little bit goes a long way. Here's what to do.

It looks safe and sound -- but did the owners take all the precautions? Photo: Ryan McVay, Getty.

In the craziness of planning for our holiday travel and vacations, we often forget to take the necessary steps to safeguard our home from intruders. It's not necessary to have a home security system such as a home alarm or security camera, although those types of precautions are a great deterrent. Here are some tips for homeowners who don't have home security systems but want some piece of mind before locking up.

1. Talk to your neighbors
It's always good to get to know your neighbors as it not only provides another set of eyes throughout the year that can watch over your property, it's also great to build your community. Before traveling, let a neighbor you trust know that you will be away and ask them to keep an eye on your property. That may mean taking out and bringing in the garbage, checking the mail, grabbing the newspaper and safekeeping packages that are delivered in your absence. If you don't have a neighbor you trust, talk to a friend or family member who can stop by.

2. Put your lights on a timer
This is a simple but necessary tip. Most robbers will "case" a target before making a move and a home that looks empty is a prime target. It's not necessary to keep a light on in a main room but rather an upstairs or side room that isn't easy to see from the street or yard. If you can set timers in different rooms for different times that's even better.

3. Close your shades
Use your window treatments to cover your windows so it's not easy for robbers to peek in. Without drapes someone can see into your home from a car in the street but with light window coverings it's not so easy.

4. Lock everything
Double check that all doors and windows are closed and secure. Use a wood dowel to secure sliding glass doors. Close up doggy doors. Lock outside gates and interior doors such as one from the garage. You've quickly and easily deterred lazy burglars.

5. Clear your yard of clutter
Make sure all leaves are picked up and your lawn is freshly mowed before you leave. It's another way to signal your occupancy.

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New TVs from CES: Soup Up Your Super Bowl Party

Timothy Dahl — 2011-01-18T16:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Holidays, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Looking for a brand new flat panel TV to kick off your Super Bowl experience? We've rounded up our favorite new flat panels from CES 2011 -- all available for purchase as we speak!

At this year's annual Consumer Electronics Show, a.k.a. CES 2011, we (and thousands of other electronics-lovers) got the opportunity to see and experience 2011's hottest home electronics, and the technologies that are poised to revolutionize our lives in the year -- even the decade! -- to come. Pretty exciting stuff.

Brand new 3D HDTVs on display at CES 2011. Photo: Getty Images

One of the primary themes we noticed this year was the advancement of HDTV televisions that are compatible with 3D programming; many of these TVs are already on the market. Our first thought? Holy 3D Super Bowl party!

Sports have, in fact, played a big role in the demand for increased quality HDTVs. Watching a game on a high-quality 1080p television is almost like being there live; now imagine that level of definition in 3D.

Granted, there isn't very much content yet that takes advantage of 3D technology, but that's the case with most technologies while they're in their infancy. In the meantime, 3D televisions do display HD content as well, if not better, than many non-3D HD counterparts. And when 3D hits the mainstream, you can count yourself as an early adopter!

So, if you're looking to amp up your Super Bowl 2011 experience, there's still time to pick up one of these cutting-edge sets. We picked out six of our favorite new HDTVs from this year's CES -- some 3D, some not -- that will provide you with a 50-yard line view from the comfort of your couch. (Looking for a stylish new stand for your flat screen? Check out ShelterPop's TV stand roundup here.)

Samsung 8000 Series 3D 1080p LED 65" HDTV. Photo: Samsung.com

Samsung 8000 Series 3D 1080p LED HDTV65"
Samsung has gained a reputation for manufacturing highly advanced pieces of technology that typically perform among the best in class while looking great. Their 8000 Series features a backlight, 3D-capability and an app feature that includes Facebook and Skype. $5,999.99

Sony Bravia LX900 3D 53" LCD HDTV. Photo: SonyStyle.com

Sony Bravia LX900 3D HDTV53" LCD
The Bravia line from Sony continues to receive high marks. And like the Samsung, its design is very catching. This LCD has built-in 3D and also displays non-3D programming in full HD 1080p quality. A tech feature we like is the built-in Wi-Fi that allows you to connect directly to the internet, where you can access your favorite viewing application. The active 3D glasses are stylish and deliver a great picture. $3,655

LG Infinia 60PK950 THX Certified 1080p 60" Plasma HDTV. Photo: LG.com

LG Infinia 60PK950 THXCertified 1080p Plasma HDTV 60"
What the LG lacks in 3D it makes up for in THX-certified sound. It doesn't get any better than that for audiophiles. This HDTV may have the best pure picture of the bunch and it's anti-clare TruBlack filter almost guarantees you won't have the typical ghosting that LCDs can have when viewing black screens and dark images. $2,999

Panasonic Viera TC-P65TV25 3D 65" HDTV 1080p. Photo: Panasonic.com

Panasonic Viera TC-P65VT25 3D HDTV1080p Plasma 65"
This award winning TV would definitely keep you in the game and even the commercials would be stunning. It is ENERGY STAR-rated and offers their black screen technology called Infinite Black Panel. The TV is internet-ready via Wi-Fi, supports various online apps and has VideoPhone capabilities. $3,499

Sharp LC-60LE92UN Aquos 3D 60" LCD HDTV. Photo: Sharp.com

Sharp LC-60LE925UN AQUOS 3D HDTV 60"
Sharp is all about LCD TVs and although their display area at CES wasn't the most polished or high-tech, their new lineup of AQUOS-powered HDTVs really shone. The AQUOS Quattron technology behind this top of the line model promises to eliminate blur and provide a brighter 3D experience (3D tends to be a little dark). This set can connect directly to the internet, where you can view Netflix and Vudu content (if you have an account). There is also a built-in media player so you can simply plug in your USB drive and share video, photos and music. Sharp has also thrown in two sets of 3D glasses -- a nice touch. $2,899

Vizio XVT3D650SV 65" LCD HDTV Theater 3D. Photo: Vizio.com

Vizio XVT3D650SV LCD HDTV Theater 3D 65"
Vizio won a few best in show awards for their 2011 HDTVs. This one is 65" and boasts SRS TruSurround and Theater 3D. This set is also internet-ready and you can show content from a variety of online sources including on-demand movies, TV, music and photos. $3,861

So how do you choose? Well, that's for you to decide. You can't really go wrong with any of these HDTVs, as they all offer outstanding viewing performance. Beware, after watching sports on these impressive displays, you may never want to see a live game again or even leave the house.

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Price Patrol: Installing Kitchen Cabinets

Timothy Dahl — 2010-04-21T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects

Getty Images

The most popular room to remodel is the kitchen. There are so many areas to upgrade, but new cabinets can make the most impact visually.

As with any project, if you stay within the current footprint of your cabinet setup, you'll have a much easier time installing new cabinets. But once you start moving appliances such as range hoods or tearing into new walls, your remodeling budget can skyrocket.

So is it worth the money to hire out this big job? Or is it a better use of your resources to take on this project yourself and save money? You decide.

HIRE-IT-OUT APPROACH
Installing kitchen cabinets is a job for more than one person, there's a lot of heavy lifting involved. If you don't have a ready friend or group of friends to help, that's one reason to hire professionals. There's the time factor too. Pros are trained to do the job quickly. DIY'ing, especially if it's your first time, will inevitably take longer.

There are a number of different ways a contractor may price a job.

1. By the hour: Time estimates for labor are the easiest. Skilled installers may charge $50-$200 per hour. Installing cabinets can take anywhere from five to ten hours -- with the cost reaching as high as $2,000 for labor alone.
2. By the foot: Some contractors choose to bid on projects based on the size of cabinets. These rates can vary but $100 per linear foot is standard.
3. Percentage of piece: This method is common but not vary reliable. Charging 10-25% of the cabinets' cost can get astronomical, depending on the cabinets you choose.
4. By the piece: This method is based on pricing individual cabinets and takes into account the level of difficulty such as time for appliance openings, changes of direction in the cab lineups, tight-to-ceiling versus down-from-ceiling, etc.

DO-IT-YOURSELF APPROACH

Getty Images

Installing your own kitchen cabinets takes some time and patience and with a partner or two, you'll be able to do it on your own. It should cost you a little more than $300 (plus the cost of cabinets).

Tools
Before you hang your cabinets, you'll need to make sure you have the following tools on hand:

48" Level: This is needed to determine if the floor is even and to maintain level countertops. $28.97
25' Tape Measure: You'll need a tape measure throughout this project. $19.97

Provided the cabinets are delivered with the proper materials such as doors, hinges, drawer pulls, door pulls and screws, you'll need these additional tools to hang and install the cabinets.

Combination Square: This is required for ultimate accuracy when hanging cabinet doors. $14.84
Screwdrivers: You can get by with much less but we like the comfort and variety of the Klein set. $49.94
Cordless Drill/Driver: You'll need at least an 18V cordless for drilling holes and driving screws. The Ryobi is lightweight and comfortable. $159
Bit and Driver Kit: These drill bits and drivers attach quickly and give you the basics for a good price . $19.97

So...are you ready to do it yourself -- and save?

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Price Patrol: Replacing a Sink

Timothy Dahl — 2010-04-15T09:00:00 00:00

Getty Images

Kitchen and bathroom sinks get a lot of daily use and therefore tend to wear more quickly than other furnishings around your home. There are also more moving parts (faucets, handles, drain stoppers, pipes) that require maintenance to last a long time.

More often than not, a sink will need to be replaced at some point, whether it's old and worn, or simply outdated. Replacing a sink is one of the most popular kitchen or bath upgrades.

Many times a sink and countertop are replaced as part of a larger remodel, but if you're happy with your current design and only have a budget to replace the sink then you can simply upgrade it and you'll save time and money.

HIRE-IT-OUT APPROACH
The mess of water lines, pipes and levers below your sink that you typically ignore all will come into play when replacing your sink. If you'd rather not fiddle with the plumbing, then definitely hire a professional plumber to disconnect, remove and install the sink.

A plumber won't select a sink for you, though. If you need design help, you can consult a professional kitchen/bath designer - but it may be hard finding one who will work on selecting a sink alone. A kitchen designer may charge several hundred dollars for their services. Obviously, it would be more cost-friendly for you to scour magazines and websites for designs you like.

When hiring a plumber ask your friends and family for references; then make sure to check with your local government agency to make sure the plumber are licensed.

You should have the new sink ready for the installer upon arrival.You shouldn't let the installer leave before making sure your new sink is working properly and your bathroom is as clean as when they arrived. (Yes, it's their job to clean up the mess they made.)

Labor costs vary across the country and travel time can also be included in an hourly rate. Replacing a sink can be a 1 to 2 hour job for a pro (perhaps a bit longer for a DIYer, but this is by no means a time-consuming job). and rates can be $75 to $150 an hour or more. All told, hiring professionals to choose and install your sink can cost up to $500. Installation alone; about $300. Add to that the price of the sink itself

DO-IT-YOURSELF APPROACH
As mentioned above, replacing a sink is not the most time-consuming task. But plumbing can be intimidating for many DIYers. Fear not! With the proper tools and instructions, you can replace a sink successfully without any professional training at all. Just about anyone can do it.

And here's the best part: you'll not only save money (perhaps enough to buy a fancier sink than you may have been able to afford before), but you'll also gain a sense of satisfaction for learning how to work with plumbing. That will keep paying dividends for years to come.

It's always easiest to select a sink that's similar to the current one. But if you're contemplating a dramatic style change, then you will be facing additional work in altering the plumbing, countertops or walls. There are many variations of sinks and plumbing setups. Some drop in sinks can

Tools & Supplies

KOHLER Self-Rimming Sink; RIDGID 18v Drill/Driver Combo. Photos: The Home Depot

- Recommended drop-in sink: KOHLER Archer(TM) Self-rimming Sink - $99
- Crescent 2 Piece Adjustable Wrench Set, 6 In. and 10 In. - $19.97
- BrassCraft Basin Wrench - $11.33
- RIDGID 18v Drill/Driver Combo - $89.88
- Ryobi 4.8A Jigsaw - $49.00
- DAP clear silicone caulk - $2.14
- Caulk Gun $26.97
- 5-Gallon Bucket - $2.34

So, are you ready to replace a sink yourself -- and save?

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Price Patrol: Refinishing Wood Floors

Timothy Dahl — 2010-04-09T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Know-How, Living Spaces

Gareth Brown, Corbis

Wood floors can be striking when they're in good shape. But over time, even the most sturdy hardwood floors can become dull and dingy. Years of wear and tear can leave unsightly nicks and scratches too. Refinishing wood floors is sometimes the only option.

So the question is: should you hire it out or do it yourself? Let's weigh the cost difference and see which approach is right for you.

HIRE-IT-OUT APPROACH
There's no denying it: refinishing wood floors is a messy and time-consuming task. There are four phases involved: prep, sanding, staining, and sealing.

The messiest part is, by far, the sanding. It kicks up a ton of saw dust, and cleaning up all that dust becomes a job in and of itself. Plus, sanding an entire floor can take up to 4 hours --and then there's the sealing process. You'll have to wait 3 hours for each coat of polyurethane sealant to dry (Most floors require at least 3 coats to achieve best results), and up to 3 days before you can move furniture back into the room and walk on the floors again.

Needless to say, homeowners sometimes choose to save time and labor by hiring flooring professionals, who arrive with all the heavy tools and supplies they need to work. Of course, you'll end up paying for such convenience: about $2,000 for 400 square feet. It's a lot to shell out when you consider that refinishing wood floors -- for all its inconveniences -- requires little technical skill and can be accomplished by even a novice DIYer.

DO-IT-YOURSELF APPROACH
So you're game to refinish your floors yourself? If you've got the patience, go for it: your wallet will thank you.

Tool Rentals:
It's unlikely you'll refinish your floors more than once every 7 to 10 years, so it makes little sense to actually buy the pricey equipment required for sanding. Most homeowners choose to rent the specialty equipment at The Home Depot and purchase the more standard tools. DIY floor refinishing will run you in the neighborhood of $250 all told.

Drum sander: This large machine handles the bulk of the sanding $40 to $50 per day
Edge or orbital sander: This handheld power tool lets you tackle tough spots and tight corners. $20 to $30 per day

Tool & Material Purchases:
If you don't already have the following tools in your toolbox, it's wise to invest in them. You'll end up needing them them for various tasks around the house:

Claw hammer: We suggest an Estwing, which consists of a single piece of metal with a rubbery grip: $22 for a standard 16 oz. hammer
Nail set: You'll need to countersink nails pops in the floor. For best results, use your hammer to strike the blunt end of a metal nail set. $2.50 for a single nail set; $6 for a set of 3.
Paint rollers and extension pole to apply varnish: Roller covers are inexpensive; $4 to $7 per pack. A pole will be anywhere from $5 to $40, depending on length and material.
Water-based polyurethane clear varnish: $8 to $10 per quart. Wood stain, which is optional, is about the same price.
Shop vac: More powerful than your standard vacuum cleaner, this machine will make short work of all that saw dust: $70 to $160.
Painter's rags: They're optional, but helpful for anything your shop vac missed: $4 to $11 per pack.

So, what's the right approach for you?

Watch this video to see some refinishing tools in action!

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DIY Warrior: Refinishing Wood Floors

Timothy Dahl — 2010-03-29T12:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces

Getty Images

Wood floors can be striking -- when they're in good condition, of course. But over time the wood begins to show its age and break down. This can happen through normal wear and tear (like constant foot traffic). So if you're looking to prevent or put off refinishing, make sure to keep floors mopped and swept, and take every opportunity to avoid unnecessary dirt and wear: doormats at every entrance and floor protector pads on all furniture legs.

But if that's not enough and you've got the time, skill and money to refinish wood floors yourself, here's a breakdown of what it takes:

SKILL LEVEL: Beginner/Intermediate
Almost anyone can refinish their own floors. It does take a bit of elbow grease to manage a floor sander as well as transport the rented sander from the shop to your house. You'll also need to remove all furnishings from the room, so try to have at least one other person assist you throughout the process.

TOOLS & SUPPLIES

Rent the following tools from your local home improvement store:

Floor sander: $40-$50 per day
Edge or orbital sander: $20-30 per day
Industrial vacuum: $20-30 per day

Other tools you should have on hand:
Hammer and nail set: $20 and $5, respectively
Paint pad and pole to apply varnish: $15
Water-based polyurethane varnish: $50-$60 for one gallon

COST
This project can typically be completed for less than $230. But a larger room will require more varnish, which will increase the cost. The tool rental prices in your area may differ from our findings; this will also impact the final cost as well.

TIME INVESTMENT
Reserve 2-3 hours for prep. The time it will take to refinish your hardwood floors is based on your experience and size of the room(s) to be refinished. As a general rule, a 10'x15' room will require 10-15 hours to refinish.

mattbatt0, Flickr

PREP

1. Remove furniture and any obstructions on the floor, such as heater covers and pipe-collars. Use clear plastic to mask the wood baseboard moldings and tape off rooms to keep dust from flying into other areas of the house. Open all windows in the room for ventilation.

2. Inspect the floor for nail pops and hammer them down. In fact, it's a good idea to countersink nails so they are at least ¼" below floor level.

3. Prep your drum floor sander; it'll take at least an hour. When you rent the floor sander, be sure to purchase sandpaper belts. You should use 80-grit paper on a drum sander.

SANDING

1. Sanding test: Once your floor is prepped and your sander is set up, you can start sanding. It's best to test your sander on a sheet of scrap plywood to make sure you're comfortable with its operation.

2. Sanding plan: Sand according to the type of floor you have. A floor with little or no damage will only require one pass of the drum sander using fine sandpaper. For a strip wood floor, sand back and forth along the direction of the wood grain. For a parquet floor, sand diagonally across the tiles.

3. Start sanding: Position the drum sander about 6" from the wall in the center of the room and sand a straight path in the direction of the floorboards. Keep the machine constantly moving. If you must stop, lift the sander and turn it off.

4. Select the right grit: If the sander isn't removing enough finish, then switch to a coarser grit paper. That said, try to use the finest grit necessary.

5. Make your second pass: If you need to make a second pass across your floors, overlap the paths by about ½". Replace the sandpaper as needed.

6. Edge the borders: Use your edge sander to reach the finish along the walls and in the corners. Maintain light and even pressure.

7. Clean up remaining sanding dust with the industrial vacuum. Most sanding machines have a dust collector, but you'll want to do another round with a vacuum to collect the finer dust.

SEALING

1. Seal with polyurethane: Seal the sanded wood floors with a mixture of water-based polyurethane and water. Apply using a painting pad and a pole extension. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for proper ratio mix and dry times.

2. Apply the final coat: The final coat should be a thin layer of undiluted water-based polyurethane applied in the same manner as the first sealant. You can use the painting pad and pole extension again. Brush with the grain and apply as evenly as possible.

3. Buff: Once the finish has dried, use an abrasive pad to buff the floor.

4. Repeat the process: Your floor may require 2-3 coats depending on thickness and look desired. Make sure you buff between each coat.

5. Apply the finishing touches: After your last finish application, buff the floor surface with clean terry cloth rags to remove surface imperfections and diminish the gloss.

For a visual on this process, check out this video:

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The Daily Fix: Tighten Loose Chair Legs

Timothy Dahl — 2010-02-15T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Dining Rooms, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

nshepard, Flickr

As home furniture goes, chairs take a lot of abuse. Dining chairs are used multiple times per day. The heavier someone is the harder it is on their furniture. It also doesn't help when someone leans back on the rear legs, putting a tremendous amount of weight on joints that weren't intended to be load-bearing at those angles. It can cause the chair's legs to loosen and become wobbly.

A piece of furniture's age is also a factor. Over the years, the chair's wood shrinks and the glue hardens and no longer adheres properly.

Try these easy fixes to tighten loose chair legs and prolong the life of your furniture.

1. Examine the chair thoroughly and check for loose joints not only in the legs but also along the stretchers (wood dowels joining the legs) and where the legs meet the base/seat of the chair.

2. Remove the stretchers from the legs. You may also have to remove the loose legs from the chair. There may be screws attaching the legs to the chair so take care that those are first removed.

3. Loosen the stretchers from the legs and scrape off the old glue with a box cutter or utility knife. You may also need to sand off any old glue residue.

4. Apply epoxy or wood glue to the clean wood surface and attach stretchers back to the legs. If you've removed the legs, reattach them to the chair.

5. If everything is snug then wait at least 48 hours or the manufacturers recommended time before using the chair again. If the stretchers and legs don't fit snug then use a band clamp to hold the pieces together until it dries.

6. Keep a damp cloth nearby to wipe up any excess glue that may have oozed out of the joints.

Additional tips:

* Don't use Gorilla glue. This type of glue expands and will cause problems once it dries. Stick to carpenters or wood glue.

* If the screws you removed don't reattach tightly then remove them and use a slightly longer screw that will "bite" into the wood and hold it firmly.

For tons of home repair tips, check out this author's blog, Charles & Hudson

SEE ALSO:
8 Quick Fixes for Your Worn-Out Tables and Chairs

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