DIY Life

DIY Disaster Doctor: Tight Squeeze

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-06-23T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Photo credit: Brandon Dyles of Picture Perfect Inspections in Bartlett, TN (via The Money Pit). Used with permission of the ASHI Reporter.

When you can't fit into your attic hatch, you know it's either time to start that diet or to rethink the size of the attic opening.

DIAGNOSIS
Actually, this ridiculously small attic opening is too tight for just about any adult, no matter what their height or weight. It's possible that the required opening was cut first, and size specs came with a much later version of the building code. What's needed here is an attic opening wide enough for comfortable access and maneuvering when you're storing or retrieving items from above. Better yet, the widened attic hatch could include a pull-down ladder for extra convenience and safety.

RX
The phrase "first do no harm" definitely applies in this project situation, because to make the attic opening wide enough for comfortable entry, you're going to be touching the very structural elements that hold up the ceiling and roof of your house. Installation of an attic hatch typically requires that you cut away ceiling joists, and any joists removed must be compensated for by doubling up the framing on either side of the new opening; otherwise, you'll be creating a big structural problem rather than a safe attic access solution.

Plus, if your attic was framed with trusses, you have NO options for enlargement! Trusses are designed to never be cut; doing so can ruin the structural integrity of the entire roof system.

Also critical to project planning is the size of the attic stair you plan to install. You'll need to know the dimensions of the unit when stowed, and the right rise for your home's floor-to-ceiling height. The unfolded ladder must be able to make a firm, fully unfurled landing for safe travel up and down, and needs to have enough clearance above in the attic when it's stowed away.

To finish this attic stair project, take a few extra steps for safety and the energy-tight sealing of your home's interior. You wouldn't leave a window wide open to let heated or air conditioned air escape, so prevent the same phenomenon from happening with your new attic opening by equipping it with an easy-to-install attic stair insulator cap. And for safe storage and solid footing in the attic itself, consider installing an attic floor. Options include high-tech tile made for attics and the traditional plywood sheeting.

Just keep structure in mind so that once you've made it into the attic, you don't come crashing back downstairs through another spot in the ceiling!

Can I Treat This Myself?
Only if you're comfortable reframing. Advanced DIY knowledge is required.

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcast or free home improvement newsletter.

** Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous. **

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DIY Disaster Doctor: Coming Down Short

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-06-18T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Photo: David Grudzinski of Advantage Home Inspections in Cranston, RI (via The Money Pit). Used with permission of the ASHI Reporter.

Here's a drainage design that stopped short of an actual downspout. Sure, water is being drained from the roof and upper levels of this home, but then it shoots straight into an exterior wall!

DIAGNOSIS
Great gutters don't just keep the bigger raindrops from falling on your head; they're also integral to protecting the structure of your home. Without a properly constructed and maintained gutter system, you're inviting a host of water damage in and around a house. That gutter system should seamlessly collect water runoff and send it through sealed, secure downspouts that keep water out of contact with siding, roofing and foundations as it carries the water away from the structure.

In the example here, the downspout stops short, right where the siding begins, and it's actually aimed toward the siding. Judging by this picture, water is likely pouring under the siding and causing rot inside the walls and puddles along the foundation line. So, that's two big drainage issues in one shot. Make that three if there's a basement in this home, because water is probably seeping down into the space and causing persistent basement leaks, pervasive indoor moisture and dangerous mold issues.

Rx
Adding a properly sealed and positioned downspout would be a great start here. Tthe end of that downspout should be extended to discharge water at a minimum of four to six feet from the home's foundation. Proper drainage design also dictates that there be at least one downspout for every 600 to 800 square feet of roof surface. If the structure of the surrounding yard and the local building laws permit, these downspouts can feed into solid PVC plumbing pipes that run underground and release water to the street or to another low-lying area.

The next step in proper home drainage planning is the angle of the soil around the home's foundation. The standard here is that soil slope down six inches over the first four feet from a structure's foundation. After that point, the soil can be graded more gradually but should never allow water to run back toward your home.

From there, careful maintenance and seasonal cleaning of the home's gutter system is critical to steering clear of system backups, leaks and the resulting water damage and flooding.

The lesson learned? Take care of your drainage system, and you'll never come up short on protection for your home when raindrops fall.

CAN I TREAT THIS MYSELF?
Basic DIY skill is necessary for downspout additions, but hire (or consult) a pro if you need to revamp and redesign your entire gutter system.

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcast or free home improvement newsletter.

** Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous. **

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DIY Disaster Doctor: Short Circuits

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-06-07T08:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Kevin Hawes of Assured Home Inspections in Calgary, Alberta (via The Money Pit). Used with permission of the ASHI Reporter.

This rudimentary labeling pretty much sums up the homeowner's knowledge of which circuit breaker powers what. It should be an electrifying experience if there's ever an emergency here!

Diagnosis: Obviously, we're witnessing an extreme lack of knowledge about electrical panels, which house the circuit breakers (and sometimes, fuses) that protect your home's electrical components (everything from your doorbell to your water heater) from dangerous power surges, which can lead to fires. Proper labeling of circuit breakers or fuses is imperative for easy identification in an emergency, an outage isolated to one area of the house, or a strategic electrical shutdown before leaving home for a trip or other extended absence.

Rx: Learn what circuit breaker powers what appliance, light fixture, etc. in your electrical panel well before an emergency strikes, and you'll save time while preventing dangerous electrical errors.

There are two approaches for determining which switch corresponds to which component. You can either take inventory of every component of your house that uses electricity (from the power grid, obviously not battery- or solar-powered devices) and shut the switches off one by one, checking which component loses power each time. Or you can work in reverse, shutting down all the power and turning it back on, one circuit at a time, to see which component comes back to life.

Use a Sharpie or label machine to identify the room or appliance to which each breaker switch corresponds (dedicated circuits will power one item -- like the central air conditioner, for instance -- while branch circuits supply power to a range of outlets, lights or switches within a room or section of your house).

It makes no sense to leave non-essential circuits on when you head off for an extended vacation or just long weekend, so pickup some of those handy little colored dot stickers to identify circuits that can be switched off when you go away. Doing so not only stops vampire power that "leaks" out of appliances like television sets (even when they are off!) but also reduces the risk of electrical fires.

Use red dots for circuits in which power always needs to be on -- security lights and your refrigerator, for instance. Then use green dots to mark circuits that can be turned off for times you'll be away -- things like room lights and electronics.

Truly vintage electrical systems involve another safety labeling step: fuses. It's critical that when a fuse blows, you have the right kind and size to replace it, so make sure to also note that information inside the fuse box, and have a collection of spare fuses ready for installation.

If you're not sure what size fuse you need, have an electrician check wires sizes the next time you're scheduled for a basic repair. Fuses are design to blow when a circuit is forced to pull more power than its wiring can handle. Fuse size therefore depends on the size of the wire it is protecting: 15 amp fuses protect #14 wired circuits, 20 amp fuses protect #12 wired circuits and 30 amp fuses are needed for #10 wired circuits.

Finally, never use a fuse bigger than what the wire requires. It not only defeats its purpose, but can allow the wire to overheat and potentially result in an electrical fire.

Can I Treat This Myself? Yes. Basic DIY skills are all that's necessary to label your circuit breakers and fuses. Call an electrician for electrical system repairs, though they're not for the faint of heart. This is definitely the kind of thing where doing it yourself can turn into hurting yourself if you don't have the necessary experience and training.

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcast or free home improvement newsletter.

** Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous. **

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DIY Disaster Doctor: Perplexing Plumbing Repair

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-05-28T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

Chris W. McDougall of Apex Home Inspection in Santa Cruz, CA (via The Money Pit. Used with permission of the ASHI Reporter

You've heard of the term "everything but the kitchen sink"? Well someone seems to have used everything in the kitchen -- including a milk carton and a doorknob -- to fix this sink.

Then, after some water and smelly sewer gas leaks, they gave up on ever using that sink again, and started doing dishes in the bathtub!

Chris W. McDougall of Apex Home Inspection in Santa Cruz, CA (via The Money Pit). Used with permission of the ASHI Reporter

Diagnosis
A simple, straightforward re-installation of the p-trap (the curved portion of pipe underneath the sink) is all that's needed here.

Rx
A p-trap is critical to your sink's mechanics -- and to a pleasant home environment -- because it seals off the connecting pipe with water to keep sewer gases from seeping into the room. Sometimes the trap will get so clogged with debris that it's beyond the help of a good cleaning, and a new p-trap needs to be installed.

Again, this is a pretty simple DIY job. P-trap kits are available and come with all the parts you need, and can be easily hand-tightened when you're doing the install. Things are a little more complicated if you've got a food disposer sharing the plumbing line, but not terribly so; just make sure you're purchasing the right p-trap kit for the setup, and ask the folks at your hardware store or home improvement center for additional guidance. There's even a cool new self-cleaning p-trap out now that makes it easier than ever to avoid future clogs.

Once you've installed the new p-trap, take steps to prevent future kitchen sink clogs and backups, such as periodically flushing the kitchen sink's drain with a few gallons of boiling water to melt away accumulated grease and soap.

And if all else fails and you've got dishes to do, remember: there's always the bathtub method that seems to be working for these homeowners! (Kidding...)

Can I Treat This Myself?
You most certainly can. Put it this way: if you can install a faucet or switch out a plumbing connection, you can definitely do this job.

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcast or free home improvement newsletter.

** Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous. **

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DIY Disaster Doctor: 3 Steps to Bad Driveway Design

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-05-21T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Exteriors & Facades, Living Spaces, Outdoors

Step right up! Photo: Max Curtis of MaxInspect in Livermore, CA (via The Money Pit). Used with permission of the ASHI Reporter.

This driveway is ideal for the four-wheeling enthusiast who wants to bring his hobby home -- and he'll need to if he expects to get his car into this garage!

Diagnosis
This garage entrance arrangement even has me stumped; who builds a garage with no intention of ever driving into it? The only possibility that comes to mind is that this garage was used as the sales office for a housing development, although the entry isn't exactly the greatest selling point for model home design.

On the other hand, if this garage is meant for its traditional purpose, let's hope the owner at least drives an SUV or an all-terrain vehicle!

Rx
For this garage to be usable, the retaining walls lining the driveway will have to be rebuilt and the driveway itself will have to be raised to garage-entry level.

Building a retaining wall requires skill, the right materials and structure for the terrain, and consideration of the climate in which you live. It's lucky that the example here is located in California's San Francisco Bay Area, where the climate is mild and there isn't much chance of the freezing temperatures and snow load that could make this driveway rebuild even more of a challenge.

The driveway and garage entry must be rebuilt to handle automotive load while ensuring that the surrounding landscaping is shored up and able to drain properly. Depending on your experience, a structural project of this magnitude may call for a professional's guidance .

It all begins by tearing out of those steps and pseudo-retaining walls, and replacing them with new walls and a built-up driveway. There are a number of retaining wall options available from basic wood ties to modular stone walls. But just as important will be compaction of the fill material used to raise the level of the grade between the walls up to the height of the garage floors.

Done correctly though, the new, stair-free driveway should allow even a Humvee to glide into the garage at the end of the day.

Can I Treat This Myself?
If you've got a cement mixer (or can rent one), go for it. If you're inexperienced laying cement and you want a perfect job, you'd be best to work with a qualified masonry contractor for this critical structural rebuild.

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcas t or free home improvement newsletter.

** Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous. **

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DIY Disaster Doctor: Deadly HVAC Design

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-05-14T09:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Charlie Rice of Pillar To Post Professional Home Inspectors in Sykesville, Maryland (via The Money Pit). Courtesy of the ASHI Reporter

To the untrained eye, this is a typical tangle of HVAC system hardware. But in actuality, this setup is anything but. The deadly arrangement places a wall-mounted air return vent less than two feet from a gas water heater's vent pipe, where carbon monoxide can easily be sucked from that water heater and sent into every room of the house!

Diagnosis
This is a DIY project gone dangerously wrong, and it illustrates why only a pro should design, place and install the components of your heating and cooling system. In such close proximity to the gas water heater, a return air vent will act like a vacuum for any carbon monoxide released when the water heater (or the furnace) is operating. As we all know, hot air rises, and in this scenario the tainted air will lift and make a beeline through the HVAC system's ductwork to interior living spaces.

Rx
In addition to contributing to the general comfort, health and well-being of a home's residents, the right balance of supply and return vents is critical to the proper functioning of an HVAC system.

Job number one in this example is to block off the existing return air vent. That can be done by removing the vent grill (located on the wall) and cutting a piece of sheet metal to a size that's 1" wider on all sides than the vent opening, then securing that metal cover over the opening with screws and a silicone seal.

From there, a new return air duct will have to be installed elsewhere in the home -- and that's a job for a true HVAC professional.

The discovery of deadly design flaws in your home's heating and cooling system shouldn't be the only occasion for calling on HVAC professionals. Careful maintenance of all components is critical to proper function as well as money-saving efficiency, so make sure your calendars marked for an HVAC system check-up by a pro twice a year, before both the heating and cooling seasons. In between those visits, you can contribute to lower heating and cooling bills by changing filters at least once per month and sealing leaky ducts with UL-181 tape, a special duct tape that won't dry up and fall off. With those simple steps, you'll be sure that good, clean, comforting air can move into living spaces rather than out of reach.

Should You DIY It?
Nope; go with an HVAC professional instead. Even a DIY Ph.D. isn't education enough for this home system correction.

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcas t or free home improvement newsletter.

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DIY Disaster Doctor: Bathroom Conundrum

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-04-28T14:30:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Products & Materials

Brodie Brown of Browntree Inspections in Marietta, Georgia (via The Money Pit). Courtesy of the ASHI Reporter

This photo might represent the ultimate in bathroom convenience for the multitasker -- or an attempt at European styling gone horribly wrong.

Diagnosis
If you've done any international travel in the last 30 years, chances are you've encountered a bathroom in which the shower is completely open, and the floor is the shower pan. Overseas bathrooms with open shower designs, however, take proper drainage and venting into account.

The bathroom design in this photo, however, is nothing but a collection of moisture and functional problems waiting to happen. And a showerhead installed right above the toilet? There is such a thing as too much multitasking! At best, this is a (very) poorly conceived attempt at making the most of a small space.

Rx
If you're facing the challenge of fitting a full bath into a super-small space, look to fixtures that exemplify Euro styling gone right. Among the many contemporary space-saving bathroom solutions are petite corner sinks, toilets with tightly tailored bowls and flat-top tanks, and curved quadrant shower units that save at least a square foot of space compared to traditional units. And accessorizing with low-profile faucets not only keeps things in proper scale but opens up the visual space in your tiny toilette.

Also, remember that proper venting is key to the comfort and structural integrity of a bathroom of any size; otherwise, mold and other moisture-related problems will have you tearing apart your mini remodel before you've had much of a chance to use it. For the best bathroom ventilation plan, purchase a vent fan that includes humidity sensing technology to keep it on until all the moisture is out. Broan-NuTone has two new ENERGY STAR qualified models that work particularly well: the Ultra Silent^TMHumidity Sensing Fans and the Humidity Sensing Recessed Fan/Lights.

Can I Treat This Myself?
Unless you've earned a Ph.D. in DIY with an emphasis in plumbing and HVAC, stick to the fixture-selection part of the project and hire a qualified bath remodeler to help you plan and install space-saving elements.

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcas t or free home improvement newsletter.

Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous.

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DIY Disaster Doctor: This Toilet Gets the Axe!

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-04-19T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects

Howard Maxfield of Plus One Inspection Services, Inc. in Mill Creek, Washington (via The Money Pit). Courtesy of the ASHI Reporter

Someone has taken a whack at fixing this wobbly toilet using a tapered axe head and scrap of wood as shims. Not exactly my idea of a cutting-edge solution, but a common enough problem that can lead to more expensive damage in the near future.

Diagnosis
Sure, this repair looks pretty ridiculous. But the bigger issue is the lack of a secure seal where the toilet bowl connects to the sewer drainpipe and meets the floor. Your toilet should be flush when you flush -- otherwise, you'll be inviting damaging water leaks and rotted flooring, not to mention super-stinky sewer gases that'll seep into the space.

Rx
You've got to replace the toilet bowl's wax seal ring. It's a relatively easy and cheap DIY project that costs just a few bucks.

1. Start the job by shutting off the bathroom's water supply and flushing away any remaining water in the toilet's bowl. Then, remove the water supply line and the two bolts holding the toilet to the floor and lift the toilet from its position. Once you have the toilet off, there will be a fair amount of excess and rather disgusting-looking wax that will need to be scraped away. A putty knife works best for this as the wax will still be fairly soft.

2. Once you have a relatively clean connection, examine the flooring under its footprint. If there doesn't seem to be any damage to that flooring, lucky you: you may now skip to step 3. But if the flooring is damaged in any way, you've just added a new step to this procedure. You'll either need to do a small-scale patch job or replace the entire floor. The good news here is that there are several great options in do-it-yourself flooring, and if the space is small enough, you can choose from such money-savers as sheet vinyl remnants and quick-install vinyl tiles available at your local flooring retailer.

3. Install the new wax ring over toilet flange and gently move the toilet back into position. Lining up the toilet, wax seal and the bolts is a bit of a tricky alignment hassle, but once done, tighten down the bolts for a snug fit. A very important word of caution: make those bolts snug, but not tight. One turn too many and you'll wind up with a cracked toilet bowl -- and a much more expensive project!

4. "While you are at it" can be the five most expensive words in home improvement, but in this case they can actually save you money during this toilet repair session. For a few more bucks more, pick up and install new toilet flush and fill valves. Small leaks in these valves can cost thousands of gallons of water per year and drain your wallet in the process, so valve replacement is a simple way to cut toilet leaks and inefficiencies down to size.

Can I Treat This Myself?
This home improvement is practically klutz-proof. Just go easy when removing and reinstalling the toilet bowl -- it's heavy!

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcas t or free home improvement newsletter.

Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous.

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DIY Disaster Doctor: This Ladder Needs More Leeway!

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-04-16T08:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Rick A. Harrington, Patch Independent Home Inspections, LLC, Pickerington, Ohio (via The Money Pit). Used with permission of the ASHI Reporter

This fold-down attic ladder is going nowhere except into a pretty important support column. If this column is damaged, the house' could start start folding down!

Diagnosis
You know the old adage, "Measure twice, cut once"? Well, let's add "Think first" to that saying! Obviously, if you're going to install a ladder leading to the attic, you need to allow enough room for it to unfold properly. That basic care wasn't taken here.

Rx
If you're planning attic access, consider the stairway options that best suit the upstairs and downstairs space you have. In the scenario here, a telescoping attic ladder (pictured below left) -- as well as relocation of the access opening -- would've been much better and much safer for both the homeowner and the structural integrity of the house. Other options: a one-piece, slide-down staircase in which the whole ladder disappears into the attic when the hatch is closed, or a fold-down model.

Consider the location of your attic stairway as well. For instance, if you're accessing your attic from the garage, the stairway you install must meet strict fireproofing requirements. The garage is separated from the rest of your home by fire-resistant walls and ceilings, right down to the drywall used. As a result, the bottom of the attic staircase also has to be fire resistant, usually accomplished with sheet metal coverage on the bottom.

Werner Telescoping Access Ladder. Photo: The Home Depot

The other critical element to attic stair installation? Reframing. Installation of an attic hatch requires that you cut away ceiling joists, and you must compensate for any joist removal by doubling up the framing on either side of the new opening. Otherwise, you'll create a big structural problem rather than a safe attic access solution.

Finally, install an attic floor to make sure you're on solid footing once you arrive in the attic. Traditional plywood sheeting and high-tech tile options like Attic Dek work really well, and allow for critical insulation and strategic placement. Just keep structure in mind when you make this attic improvement, because attics are actually meant to help hold your home together rather than act as additional storage space.

In fact, some attics are just not meant to be used for storage, including those framed with pre-fabricated trusses. If you try to cut those to make room for a stair or flooring, you might end up taking a quick trip downstairs. A really quick trip -- right through the ceiling! The rest of your house could potentially come tumbling down as well.

Skill Level
DIY Ph.D. You should have experience with reframing.

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcas t or free home improvement newsletter.

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DIY Disaster Doctor: Staggering Staircase

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-04-13T11:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Rick A. Harrington of Patch Independent Home Inspections, LLC in Pickerington, Ohio (via The Money Pit). Used with permission of the ASHI Reporter.

Is this curious structure actually a staircase? Apparently, this DIYer didn't have ample room for a "traditional" staircase and decided to split the difference with a staggered design -- an accident waiting to happen. There isn't even a railing! Someone can easily trip on the way up or down.

Diagnosis
This creation has basically broken all the rules of proper stair design. Besides the concentration it would take to successfully ascend or descend this staircase, the design doesn't incorporate the standard tread depth and riser height that we humans are used to when moving to another level. When steps are too shallow, wide, high or low, it's hard for our bodies to accommodate the change and thus easier for us to get tripped up.

The most likely scenario here is an an obstruction within the framework of the stairs that made traditional stair impossible to build. To build a staircase that's safe, comfortable and definitely to code, you simply have to have the proper amount of space available for its footprint. Without that, it's time to move onward and upward to other staircase options.

Rx
The idea here is to select a stairway design that fits into the limited space and safely gets you to where you're going. For a finished living area, choosing a spiral staircase is a stylish, versatile solution that claims only about half the space of a traditional staircase. Used indoors or out, a spiral staircase can be made of metal, wood or both, with a diameter and other dimensions suited to the area you have available. You can also adjust the position of the first tread relative to the last for a comfortable, logical travel pattern.

For upward mobility in an unfinished space, such as an attic, try such options as fold-down, pull-down or telescoping stairs. With any of these, make sure you've got enough room below for the staircase mechanism to unfold or untelescope completely and solidly, as well as proper clearance above for when the stairs are stored. Plan properly, and you won't have to think too hard about putting one foot in front of the other when taking the stairs!

Skill Level
This one can have you going in circles...literally! Upper-division DIY experience suggested.

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcas t or free home improvement newsletter.

** Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous. **

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DIY Disaster Doctor: In One Vent, Out the Other

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-04-08T10:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Alvin C. Miller of Hawkeye Home Inspections, LLC in Wellman, Iowa (via The Money Pit). Courtesy of the ASHI Reporter.

There's no getting comfortable in this room any time of year, since the temperature-controlled air from the HVAC system enters the room from the supply vent -- and escapes out of the neighboring return vent simultaneously!

Diagnosis
This HVAC distribution design disaster is just like a dog chasing its tail. The room's air supply vent (which pushes air into the room) is located on the floor, and the air return vent (which sucks air back into the HVAC system) is stationed just a few inches above it on the wall. As a result, all the warm or cool air meant to bring comfort simply leaves the room as soon as it comes in. This is the kind of poor system design that leads to uneven heating and cooling in a home, constant frustrations regarding comfort, and wasted energy and money.

Rx
In this particular example, one of the vents should be moved to another location in the room so that warm or cold air coming into the space has a chance to circulate before returning to the system to be warmed or cooled once again.

This isn't just so that the room itself will feel comfier, which it will, but also because air needs to move through the system several times before it reaches the temperature you've set the thermostat to; in other words, the air isn't going to be instantly hot or cold when you flip the switch.

This air circulation challenge is unique to forced-air systems, and can actually be more of a problem in newer homes than in old. Older homes usually have a supply and return vent in each room (though not usually in the goofy arrangement seen here), which makes for pretty effective, reliable air delivery and climate control. Newer homes, on the other hand, have supply vents in each room but the return vent is usually centralized in a hallway to serve a collection of rooms or entire wing of a home. So that means that, even with the door closed, air has to be able to leave a room and reach that return vent; this is usually accomplished by undercutting interior doors by at least an inch to facilitate the process.

There are several adjustments you can make if you're noticing uneven air delivery in one or more rooms in your home. For starters, make sure supply and return vents aren't blocked by furnishings, window coverings or other décor. If there are rooms you aren't using that don't need comfort control, you can essentially remove them from the airflow circuit and reroute the conditioned air to other areas that need it by strategically turning off the supply ducts and sealing them with a piece of plastic behind the vent grille. You can also install duct dampers, handy in-line controls that use baffle action for open/closed control. Basic HVAC maintenance also helps identify issues that reduce air flow, driving up both heating and cooling costs.

To help locate air flow issues, use the tissue test. With your HVAC system running, hold a tissue up to supply and return vents; if they're working properly, supply vents should blow the tissue toward you and return vents should suck that tissue away from you into their grilles. From there, solutions can range from duct cleaning and re-sealing to HVAC system design tune-ups by a qualified pro. Just don't hire the guy who installed the over-circulating vent setup we've been looking at here!

Skill Level?
It depends on the extent of the solution. Initial diagnosis and slight adjustments, like duct shutoffs, are DIY-able. But bring in a pro for system redesigns and installations.

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcas t or free home improvement newsletter.

** Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous. **

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DIY Disaster Doctor: Chia Pet Chimney

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-03-29T09:45:00 00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

Richard Matore of Pillar to Post Home Inspection in Newington, Connecticut (via The Money Pit). Courtesy of ASHI Reporter

Remember the Chia Pet, that early '80s craze that revolutionized indoor gardening? Well, I'm pretty sure they never offered a Chia Chimney -- yet we seem to be looking at one right now!

Diagnosis
The green outgrowth signals a chimney in need of some minor DIY repair. Left as is, the homeowner faces some potentially serious side effects: the foliage can block the escape of smoke and carbon monoxide.

Getty Images

Brick chimneys like this one are constructed using a terracotta clay flue liner surrounded by brick. They're topped off by a waterproofed cement crown that is sloped downward toward the outside edge of the brick (keeping water out of the chimney). But crowns crack over time and water leaks in, where it freezes and breaks the chimney apart. Those cracks are also a great place for wind-blown or bird-dropped seedlings to land, impeding the function of the chimney, and leading to the unsightly Chia Pet Chimney you see here.

Rx
Your chimney is a critical part of your home's structure and mechanical functioning, so routine chimney inspections, repair and cleaning are all critical, especially before the winter heating season begins. That means getting up on the roof for some detailed inspection repair. If you're not great with heights and the possible medical emergencies that come with them, enlist the help of a pro..

Start by carefully inspecting of the surface of the chimney crown for damage and possible plant habitats, and look down the chimney with a flashlight to confirm that there are no additional blockages, gaping holes or other air flow issues. If you find loose bricks, scrape away any loose mortar and then repoint with a fresh mix. Repair cracked chimney crowns with a silicone caulk -- or if they are badly deteriorated, simply remove and replace the crown with new mortar. As a preventive measure, consider installing a chimney cap to help divert moisture and keep the chimney passage clear.

While you are up on the roof, check the chimney flashing, which seals the space between the roof shingles and the chimney. Loose flashing should be secured back to the brick.

Adopt this chimney maintenance routine periodically going forward, and you'll keep rooftop greenery from taking root.

Can I Treat This Myself?
Yes, as long as you have a sturdy ladder and some good medical insurance -- just in case!

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcas t or free home improvement newsletter.

** Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous. **

SEE ALSO:
6 DIY Home Mysteries Solved (Popular Mechanics)
Common Roof Repairs (Charles & Hudson)

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DIY Disaster Doctor: Home Improvement "Break Through"

Tom Kraeutler — 2010-03-19T09:00:00 00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Tom Krauetler

What's the fastest way to get to the front door from the second floor? Through the ceiling! While replacing the floor in an upstairs bathroom, this homeowner momentarily forgot the age-old carpenter's adage for strolls among exposed floor joists: Always walk on wood!

Diagnosis
Thanks to a step in the wrong direction during this bathroom remodel, ceiling repair and repainting are now on this homeowner's to-do list. Patching over the damage is pretty simple. But after the ceiling escape hatch is filled, they'll need to repaint the entire ceiling surface that surrounds it.

Rx
1. Begin by expanding the opening to make an even square or rectangular shape that reaches the next-nearest ceiling joist. The goal here is for the trimmed-away area to reach halfway across that ceiling joist so that you have a nailing edge for the new piece of drywall you'll install as a patch.

2. Next, cut a piece of drywall to fit the new opening. This drywall patch should match the thickness of the surrounding ceiling sheetrock (usually half an inch). But if your patch is slightly thinner, you can always use shims to make up the difference. Install the patch using drywall screws, driving them in just until they make a very slight dimple in the drywall surface.

3. Begin the patch's disappearing act by covering all seams with drywall tape. Drywall tape is available in paper or fiberglass mesh, and I recommend the latter because it's far easier to work with thanks to a self-adhesive surface and simple-to-smooth format. (Unless you are particularly skilled, the paper tape tends to trap air bubbles during adhesion with joint compound).

4. Once you've covered all edges of the opening with drywall tape, start a series of spackling rounds, beginning with an application using a 4" putty knife and layer of joint compound. Apply a thin layer that just barely covers the drywall tape, and after it has dried, sand the area to a smooth finish. Be warned that the sanding routine is messy─you'll want to protect yourself with a filtering mask and isolate the surrounding area with plastic.

After going two more rounds with the spackling and sanding using progressively larger spackling knives for the joint compound application (six-inch and then eight-inch; low-cost plastic spackling knives can save you a few dollars), it's time to paint the ceiling surface.

For the best, smoothest, nothing-ever-happened-here result, follow these simple interior painting tips: prepare the entire ceiling area to be painted with a light sanding and cleaning. Next, equip yourself with high-quality rollers or brushes and apply a coat of primer to the entire ceiling space, not just the patched area. The reason is that the new drywall will absorb paint differently than the old ceiling, resulting in a different sheen. By priming the entire surface, you'll be assured of an even top-coat that hides all evidence of the misstep that began this entire home improvement misadventure.

When it comes to the final finish, use a paint formulated specifically for ceilings (it'll be thicker and less likely to drip than wall paint), and choose a flat sheen that will absorb light rather than reflect it. Otherwise, you'll end up throwing a perpetual hallway spotlight on that foot-through-ceiling episode.

Skill Level?
Definitely DIY. You got yourself into this mess and we're confident you can DIY your way out!

Tom Kraeutler delivers home improvement tips and ideas each week as host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Show, a nationally syndicated radio program. He is also author of My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure. You can also subscribe to Tom's latest home improvement podcas t or free home improvement newsletter.

Got a DIY disaster you'd like us to feature? Send a photo of the disaster to DIYDisasterDr@aol.com, and we just might publish it here on DIY Life. All submissions will remain anonymous.

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Your Roof: Repair or Replace?

Tom Kraeutler — 2008-07-23T20:00:00 00:00

Filed under: preventative maintenance, remodeling, Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

Your roof is wearing out - right now. Thanks to the UV radiation that bakes roof shingles until they are brittle, the summer sun takes more years out of a roof's life than any other environmental factor. If your roof is looking a little worse for wear, the summer is also a good time to think about having it repaired or replaced.

On my national home improvement radio show, roofing ranks among the top ten most asked-about topics; of those questions, the decision to repair or replace is a frequent area of confusion.

First, roof leaks can almost always be repaired without replacing the roof. Most roofs leak due to flashing problems, typically at an intersection of two roof components; roof and plumbing vent, roof and chimney, roof and wall, etc. An easy way to help pinpoint that leak is by strategically rinsing down each area with a hose until the offending spot is found.

To learn more about replacing a roof, read on.

Replacing a roof, on the other hand, is something that has to be done periodically, and is seldom done because of an obvious leak. More commonly, the shingles have dried out and become cracked, brittle and deteriorated to the point where the roof remains saturated under the roof shingles, causing slow decay rather than an obvious stick-the-bucket-under-it leak.

While spot repair may be possible if the majority of your roof surface has plenty of mileage left in it, if your roof is approaching the 20-year mark (or so), replacement is a better way to go.

If you do replace your roof, do you add another layer, or do you completely replace it? Here are the pros and cons of that decision:

A brand new roof provides the opportunity for secure sealing, the latest in underlayment materials and flashing, and a longer guarantee of material integrity for a lifespan of 20 years or more.
On the other hand, applying a new roofing layer on top of the old is possible only if your existing roofing is one layer thick and in good condition, has strong decking, and has shingles compatible with the new application. Longevity isn't as extensive with this option, being around 25 percent less than that of a new roof. The reason for this is because the old layer holds a lot of heat, and that heat helps the new roof dry out that much more quickly, shortening its life.

If your roof's condition provides the opportunity to choose between these options, consider the number of years you plan to stay in your re-roofed home. If a long haul is in the cards, a whole new roof is the wise choice, while a shorter stay justifies saving cash with the second-layer option.

Tom Kraeutler is the host of The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show and the Home Improvement Editor for AOL. For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. Tom's latest book, My Home, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure, is available in bookstores everywhere and online.

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