DIY Life

Curbspotting: Vintage Chair

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-11T13:45:00+00:00

Filed under: Dining Rooms, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

There's only one thought we had when we saw this vintage chair and it was: "Yikes!" See how it went from beyond hope to beautifully restored...and brush up on your reupholstery skills in the process.

practicalowl, flickr

From the profusion of unbound wool stuffing and a finish that can only be described as lackluster, it didn't surprise us to learn that the glory days of this vintage chair occurred over a century ago. (In fact, the chair dates from the Victorian era.) But as usual in these Curbspotting makeovers, good bones trump even the most serious-looking flaws. The chair's high-quality wood frame, beautiful carved details and graceful silhouette made it a worthy project.

The main issue was the seat...or lack thereof. While this makeover was done by a professional restorer, you can tackle this reupholstery project yourself using the brilliant upholstery overview at ModHomeEc. An overview: You'll completely remove the seat, add new cushioning (usually with foam) and then re-cover the new seat with fabric. A word to the wise: Before I even think about picking up a chair for a possible makeover, I always check its underside to see if it's held to the frame with screws, which makes it easy to remove the seat.

Next up is the chair frame. Here, the lack of shine throughout the piece tells us that the original finish is long gone. (Wax, oil and shellac/lacquer/varnish are the traditional sealers used for wood pieces.) You can either paint the frame a new color or attempt to restore the wood yourself. I tend to select more informal pieces that lend themselves nicely to a new paint job, but if you'd like an incredibly good primer on how to restore wood, I highly recommend this article from TLC's How Stuff Works.

Want to see more incredible before-and-after makeovers from our Curbspotting series? Check out...
Curbspotting: Midcentury Chair
Curbspotting: Dresser Makeover
Curbspotting: Vintage Lamps

And to see a wood refinishing project in action, watch this...

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Curbspotting: Vintage Chair

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-03T13:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Living Rooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How

A vintage chair with "good bones" (but not much else going for it) becomes a knockout with a fresh coat of paint and a little reupholstering know-how.

Justin and Elise, flickr

This vintage chair by Drexel was facing a future in the dump when it was rescued just before the garbage truck came along. And though it had potential, you can see why someone might chuck it in the first place. The torn upholstery, scratched-up wood and general filthiness definitely overshadows its elegant frame.

Then Justin and Elise Snow came along. They cleaned it up, gave the wood a fresh coat of lime green paint and replaced the upholstery. Though it looks impressive and sounds intimidating, reupholstering a side chair is one of the easiest projects you can do. Really. All you really have to do is re-wrap the cushion with foam and then smooth over with the fabric of your choice, stapling both in place as you work. It's projects like this, or the hope of undertaking a project like this, that made me buy a staple gun in the first place.

Want a few more ideas for refreshing a vintage chair? Check out...
Minute Makeover: A DIY Accent Chair
Flea market chair gets a makeover
Thrifted task chair gets a new look

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

DIY Lighting: Umbrella Pendant Lamp

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-01T11:15:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces, Outdoors

Two umbrellas plus a hanging socket make for statement-making DIY lighting in this project from ReadyMade.

Cameron Sadeghpour, ReadyMade

Finding the right-sized pendant to fit over your table can be a challenge, especially if you have high ceilings. This DIY lighting project is a great cure for filling in that open space, utilizing the relatively generous domed shape of an umbrella to create a spherical pendant. Plus, the weatherproof material makes the light safe for outdoor use.

Though a clear umbrella affords maximum light, a brightly-patterned model can also be used (or even a pretty parasol). In a nutshell, you'll want to trim off the handle, feed a hanging socket through the top and then connect the two umbrellas with twist-ties. For the complete instructions, visit ReadyMade.

Want more DIY lighting ideas? Check out...
DIY Lighting: Paper-Clip Chandeliers
Low voltage outdoor lighting
Make a solar lantern

Thinking about going the solar route for your outdoor lighting? Watch this first...

How to Install Solar Outdoor Lighting

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

How to Affordably Frame Large Prints

DIY Life Staff — 2011-04-12T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Living Spaces

Don't limit your art options to what can fit inside a standard frame -- you can go beyond the 8"x10" without going broke.

Mercie Ghimire Photography

Sometimes when you stumble upon art that comes in a big package, you shrink from the purchase, for fear that the framing will cost more than the art. But no fear -- there are other, more affordable options.

How to Frame a Large Picture: Supersize and Put Behind Plexiglass Blogger Mercie Ghimire of A Lovely Evening turned a 2"x4" inch mini Instax photo print into a giant 3'x5' print in her living room. She worked with a local framer and had them create a high-res scan of the photograph and then asked them to glue the enlarged photo on 1/4" thick gator board and glue 1/8" plexiglass on top of that. So the photo is free-floating -- there is no actual frame. The framer add a piece of beveled block on the back to make it easy to hang this 40 pound piece of art on the wall.

Photo: ReFrame

How to Frame a Large Picture: ReFrame It
Check out ReFrame's alternative framing solutions for hanging up poster-size prints. The frames are glassless but they're an affordable way to hang up a poster or large print for that cool gallery look. And the frames come in multiple sizes and three finishes -- natural, white, or black -- to suit your style.

How to Frame a Large Picture: Use a Ledge: Foam-core backing is another affordable solution for prints of non-standard sizes. Use spray adhesive to mount your print on foam core, which will make them sturdy enough to stand up on their own (and not bend.) Then you can place your print on a picture ledge, which gives you the flexibility of swapping out prints easily when you want a new look.

Plywerk

How to Frame a Large Picture: Attach It to Wood: Plywerk makes blank panels from sustainably harvested wood, with a special pH neutral adhesive, for hanging prints of all sizes. You can also use their digital reproduction service to reproduce a one-of-a-kind print and have the copy attached to a Plywerk panel.

Design Sponge

How to Frame a Large Picture: DIY It!
We spotted this great DIY project on Design Sponge. Blogger Kimba of A Soft Place to Land created a DIY frame for an oversized map using door frame molding, corner blocks, and paint. How clever!

Depending on the print, another alternative is cutting up a large print to display in multiple smaller frames. That's something I'm considering for a gigantic blueprint I've been trying to tackle -- creating a grid of frames each displaying a piece of the blueprint.

Tip: Found a vintage frame that's the perfect size, but it's empty? Here's how to makeover an empty frame.

By Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

How to Paint Trim? First, Swallow Your Fear

Jaime Derringer — 2011-03-28T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: home decor, painting, Living Rooms, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces

When it comes to beautiful old trim, it's hard to cover it in paint. But sometimes it makes sense.

You bought an older house. You love it. It has character, it has charm. It has ornate baseboards, trim and moldings -- all original wood. But what if you aren't such a big fan of wood trim? What if you wanted to paint it another color? Would it look brighter and fresher with a few coats of white paint, or would you be ruining a piece of your home's history?

Photo: arsheffield, Flickr

I read Nicole Balch's Making It Lovely blog and have been following her ever since she bought her cute little 1910 bungalow in Oak Park, Illinois. She recently posted about her decision to paint her untouched original wood trim white.

It was a controversial decision. Many commenters on her blog took one side or the other. Some felt that it was sacrilegious to touch the original wood, while others were quick to whip out a paint brush and go to town.

"Painted wood trim, no matter how much you agonize over the color and paint it perfectly, is just never as special as the original wood," commented one person who objected to her decision.

"it's your home in the end, so do whatever makes you happy," said another more supportive commenter.

I asked Balch to tell me a little more about how she made the decision. It was a difficult one for her. Her Craftsman bungalow was originally a 2-bedroom/1-bath house, and the attic was converted in the 1960s or 70s to add more bedrooms and another bath. When they moved in three years ago, she was in the mindset that the trim was going to remain as is. She recalls thinking "this house has been here since 1910 with its natural wood in tact. I'm not going to be the one to change it."

However, after years of decorating around the wood trim and trying her hardest to live with it, she gave in to her desire for white trim. "We're going to be here for a while, and I want to be happy with the way my home looks...I've always liked the look of white trim more than stained wood." Ultimately, she needed to make the right decorating decision for her since she is the one who has to look at it ever day. "This is where my family actually lives, not a historical time capsule," she wrote on her blog.

A few things influenced her decision. First, the trim wasn't in the best shape. There were signs of wear and tear that would be easier to hide and freshen up with a few coats of white paint. Also, the wood itself is fir and paint-grade quality. Perhaps she would have reconsidered had her trim been flawless mahogany?

Nicole's dining room before and after. Photos: Nicole Balch

But when she first put that paintbrush to wood, was she sure she'd made the right decision? "I was 97% sure...but that 3% of doubt had my stomach in knots. What if I didn't like it? What if I was ruining my house or driving it's value down?"

I'm sure we would all have had the same doubts. After 15 hours, one coat of primer and two coats of paint, Balch can happily say that she made the right choice. She says she doesn't mind the nay-sayers: "[At first] it can be hard to move past worrying about what other people will think, especially the hypothetical future people that may live in your home after you. The best way to approach it is to think about what will make you happy. If you really love the look of painted trim and the natural wood isn't doing it for you, go ahead and pick up that paint brush."

After all, it's you who lives there.

Need more decorating help? Don't miss:
Great Walls Without Paint
How to Think Like An Interior Designer
Decorating Styles 101: Comfy and Casual

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Prince Charles' Eco-Friendly House (Hint: It's Not the Palace)

Laura Fenton — 2011-03-24T12:02:00+00:00

Filed under: Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces

The heir to the British throne is a champion of environmental conservation. And HRH's latest venture has taught us a thing or two about eco-living.

The whole world is waiting with bated breath for the nuptials of Prince William and Kate Middleton. However, the groom's own father is at least one member of the royal family who hasn't been completely consumed by wedding preparations.

Photo: Ideal Home Show 2011

A long-time environmental activist, who has been dedicated to causes like renewable energy and organic farming long before they were chic, the Prince of Wales has become even more active in promoting these eco-causes. In fact, he recently told Vanity Fair,"I am absolutely determined to be the defender of nature. Full stop. That's what the rest of my life is going to be concerned with." Strong words for the heir to the British throne. Prince Charles latest green project is a earth-friendly model home designed by his foundation, The Prince's Foundation For The Built Environment.

Photo: Ideal Home Show 2011

The "Prince's House",a model eco-conscious house, is one of the main attractions at this year's Ideal Home Show (March 11-27) in Earls Court in West London. While the royal model house is a far-cry from Buckingham Palace, the low-carbon domicile is a treasure trove of eco-friendly ideas. Here's what we learned from the Prince's House.

1. Green can -- and should -- be beautiful. The Prince believes that energy-efficient can also be attractive and this model home proves his point.

2. The suburbs are greener than the country. The Prince's Foundation believes that the most earth-friendly choice is to build homes near shops, schools and other amenities so that people can easily bike or walk to their destinations.

Photo: Ideal Home Show 2011

Recycled art is chic. In the master bedroom, a pair of framed baby dresses stands in for artwork: A lovely and earth-friendly way to preserve memories.

Upcycled furnishings can be stylish. Several pieces of furniture and accessories were made using materials that would have ended up in a landfill.

Photo: Ideal Home Show 2011

You don't need high technology to go green. The Prince's house relies on decidedly low-fi technology, like an insulated roof for the majority of its energy efficiency.

Nature makes the best insulation. The house uses nature's best for insulation: Lime-hemp and sheep's wool (really!) in the roof and floors and plain old air is trapped in a space between the interior and exterior walls.

Photo: Ideal Home Show 2011

Old-fashioned can be earth-friendly. The house is built using traditional design and building methods that have been proven to work over time.

The "buy local" edict isn't just for food. The Prince's House was made using materials from British companies in order to cut down on its carbon footprint.

A beautiful home is ultimately greener. The Prince's Foundation believes, "If a building cannot be loved, it is more likely to be demolished within a relatively short span." We couldn't agree more.

Looking for more articles on eco-living?
Eco-Lingo: Ecological Footprint
Yes, Please: An Eco-Spin on A Classic Design
Green Cleaning -- Spring Cleaning Guide

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Hollow-Core Door Makeover

Houzz — 2011-03-22T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

See this drab hollow-core door transform into a black and white showstopper, complete with fancy knocker!

Check out this creative DIY project from our friends at Houzz!

My photographer friend Christina had me over to her house recently. Naturally, she inquired as to any ideas I could offer to make her home a bit nicer. Upon entry, I wanted to say, "Well, you can start by tossing those nasty hollow-core doors out the window, then setting them on fire." But instead, the nice part of me decided to offer up a do-it-yourself upgrade - the same nice part that got tricked into staying and actually doing it. One protein bar, two pitchers of ice water and about 6 hours of conversation later, here's how we took Christina's 40-year-old, contractor-grade, hollow-core door from eyesore to showstopper:

Houzz

While I recommend this project for hollow-core doors, it works just as well on those made from solid wood. High contrast offers up the most impact. Black and white is classic and goes with everything, but playing up two drastically different shades of your room's wall color works just as well.

Check out Houzz's step-by-step hollow-core door transformation to make this DIY happen in your home!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Radiant Floor Heating - Should You or Shouldn't You?

DIY Life Staff — 2011-02-17T11:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Is there a better way to heat your home? Radiant floor heating is a very viable option: it's clean, evenly distributed and energy-efficient.

It's the heart of winter and by now we're all familiar with it: the flaky, cracked skin that comes from being cooped up all day surrounded by dry air. The kinds of heating systems that most of us have -- forced-air systems (think furnaces and radiators) -- breed this kind of environment.

But radiant floor heating offers a very attractive alternative to the dusty vents and radiators we're used to. By installing plastic tubes underneath your actual flooring, your house gets warm from the ground up, and the heat is distributed throughout the house evenly and without the dryness and dust of forced air systems. Plus, they actually save energy by allowing you to turn down your thermostat a few degrees and still feel the same amount of coziness.

Would you make the switch?

SEE ALSO:
Cheap Ways to Heat Your Home
How to Heat Your Home Eco-Consciously (ShelterPop)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Painting Techniques: Painting Behind a Radiator

Mark Clement — 2011-02-17T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Painting the walls? Don't let a cumbersome radiator get you hot under the collar. Here are some foolproof tips and techniques for painting behind a radiator.

artnoose, Flickr

So you're painting your living room. You're excited, too. This is going to turn out great.

You've bought everything you'll need. A bountiful heap of plastic shopping bags full of drop cloths, roller frames, paint pans, a 5-in-1 tool, and, of course, paint brushes -- and not just any old brushes; you need good paint brushes: watch this video to learn how to choose!

You've also got just the right color picked out. And because it's an older place, you've tested for lead paint.

As you paint your way around the room, you first realize the radiator in your charming old place is at first in the way. Then, as you get right up to it with the brush you realize, "Wait a minute. I can't really get the brush back there. What the heck?"

And all your good karma turns sour because you now dread an ugly, slathered paint outline around the radiator.

That's usually how the scenario plays out. So whether you've found yourself there already or you had the foresight to research the problem before it actually became a problem, here's the best approach to painting behind a radiator.

Should You Remove the Radiator?
Let's get this out of the way early. Our advice: Don't even think about it. This is a professional plumber's job (the Washington Post agrees). Still want to attempt it yourself? We suggest at least consulting a professional plumber first.

Get Yourself Some Radiator Rollers and Radiator Brushes

(Left to right) Amazon; Ace Hardware

The easiest way to paint behind a radiator is to head back to the store (turn the heat off before you go; you'll see why later) to get what's called a "mini-long-handled roller." You can find this long, slender type of paint roller at practically any paint store or big box home center. Some manufacturers call them "radiator rollers."

You'll probably find two types at point of sale: one with a sponge roller cover (the part you put the paint on) and one with a microfiber roller cover. For what it's worth, I've had the best luck with the microfiber covers, but both work for this application.

Though I've never tried them, some people use radiator paint brushes too, which are designed to be long and slim enough to fit in tight quarters (same idea as a radiator roller).

Also, grab a box of contractor grade trash bags while you're there (you'll want them later for all the paint cans and debris that'll stretch your kitchen bags past the breaking point.)

When you return home, slide a contractor bag over the radiator -- which should be cool by now -- and snug tight with tape or string (or just have someone hold it taught). This is to protect the roller from all the dust bunnies and debris back there.

Then, load your radiator roller with paint and sneak it down between the bag and the wall. Paint what you can but if it won't go all the way down, let it be. You won't be able to see that far behind the radiator anyway -- nor can you see through most radiators, for that matter.

Unlike standard size roller covers, I clean out mini roller covers in my utility sink. Why not just throw them out? First, they're not all that cheap, so I tend to reuse them. Second, unlike full-size roller covers, they clean up fairly easily so it isn't a hassle at all.

Or You Could Just Build a Radiator Cover
If for some reason you can see through the radiator to the unpainted wall behind but can't paint there's another other option: building a radiator cover. These are a really fun projects. However, we bring it up here only as an option. How to build them is another kettle of fish entirely.

In this video, DIY Network's Marc Bartolomeo demonstrates how to make a radiator cover out of wood and leftover soapstone countertop:

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Clean Soot from Marble Fireplaces - Reader Tip

Landra Lynn Jacobs — 2011-02-14T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Your fireplace is probably getting a workout this winter, leading to soot buildup on your mantel and surround. Here's one reader's suggestion for bringing back the elegant finish of marble fireplaces.

Alamy

My marble fireplace adds sophistication to my living room. But soot stains on the stone's surface can really put a damper on things. I restore a beautiful finish to the marble with natural ingredients and a series of simple steps.

First, lightly moisten a soft cloth with warm water. Wipe the surface of the marble down with this cloth to remove any grit or grime on the surface.

If this does not completely remove the soot stain, soak a small washcloth with hydrogen peroxide. Lay the cloth directly onto the surface of the marble where the stain is. Apply a bit of plastic wrap over the washcloth and secure it in place with packing tape around the edges. Leave the washcloth and plastic to set for 24 hours.

Remove the cloth and plastic. Wipe the surface again with a damp cloth to rinse all residual peroxide. Your marble fireplace should be restored to its elegant finish!

Want the secrets to a "never-fail" system for starting a fire? Check out this video!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Fireplace Heating Myths Debunked

Mark Clement — 2011-02-07T11:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces

Will an open fire leave your home more cold and frosty than warm and toasty? Get the true facts on fireplaces before lighting those logs --

Roaring fires evoke the warm feelings of holiday cards, but are fireplaces efficient forms of heat? Photo: Lord-helmut, Flickr

As winter continues to roar, picturesque dreams of chestnuts roasting on an open fire may dance in your head. And you're not the only one coveting cozy nights cast under a warm glow. According, to the National Home Builder's Association, 77 percent of home-buyers list a fireplace as a "most-wanted" amenity.

Unfortunately, in addition to a cozy ambience, fireplaces also elicit concern about safety-hazards, air pollution, inefficient heating properties, and laborious maintenance needs. Not quite the makings of a festive Nat King Cole song.

But do the pros outweigh the cons? Can a wood-burning fireplace really heat your home sufficiently? Are these structures simply a house fire waiting to happen? The key is to decipher the difference between fact and fiction. Plenty of conventional wisdom regarding fireplaces is flat-out wrong, or at least misleading. Here's the truth behind some of the commonly held fireplace misconceptions.

Fireplace Myths, Realities, and Easy Fixes

A relatively simple way to increase the warmth of a fireplace is to install a fireback, a decorative cast-iron plate that reflects heat into the room. Photo: Fireback.com

Myth: A fireplace provides heat.

Reality: Wood-burning fireplaces do not provide as much heat as they do ambience and beauty. Once upon a time, a fireplace was used as a major heat source -- as well as a stove for cooking food. But that role started waning about 270 years ago with the advent of the Franklin Stove.

Fire requires oxygen for combustion, thus fireplace flames consume the heated air inside your home, which results in a drafty interior. Also, cold exterior air is sucked into the house through the fireplace's chimney.

The Fix: This one's simple. Maximize the warmth of a fireplace by installing a fireback.

A Pennsylvania Fireback is a decorative cast-iron shield placed in the rear of the fireplace. Firebacks reflect and radiate the heat from your fireplace back into the room, increasing the amount of warmth your fire provides. Opt for a heavy fireback, as lighter firebacks don't retain as much heat. Prices start around $200 for a fireback.

Adding doors to a fireplace is one of the easiest and least expensive ways to increase the fireplace's heat efficiency. Photo: Lowe's

Myth: A fireplace operates inefficiently.

Reality: Over a year, a fireplace may passively consume more energy while not in operation due to leaks around the damper than when it's actually in use.

Most fireplaces have a throat damper, which is the steel plate inside the chimney that closes against a steel or masonry shelf to prevent hot air from escaping or cold air from entering. But because both the damper and the chimney itself are rigid, a tight seal is nearly impossible. Making the situation worse, many fireplace owners don't even know this little door is back there and leave it wide open all year long. This is almost the equivalent of leaving a window open.

The Fix: Install fireplace doors.

While they can be decorative, the main function of fireplace doors is to create a second barrier between the living space and the home's exterior. They are very effective at keeping heat in and blocking cold air from entering. Prices start around $150 for the doors.

Another efficient solution is to use a top-sealing damper, which creates a gasket seal similar to a door closing against weatherstripping. This keeps conditioned air from escaping and inhibits outside air from infiltrating the chimney. Lyemance, a leading manufacturer, says top-sealing dampers are 90 percent more efficient than throat dampers and can save hundreds of dollars annually on a typical sized home in a cold climate. Chimney-top dampers are available for $200 to $400.

Getty Images

Myth: You can't burn soft wood, like pine, because its pitch creates creosote that will coat the inside of your chimney and increase the possibility of chimney fires.

Reality: According to Ashley Eldridge, Director of Education for the National Chimney Sweep Guild, you can indeed burn pine without making a sticky mess of the chimney. Seasoned wood (wood that has dried for a year) burns better than green wood, which has a high-water content because it is recently felled.

It's also worth pointing out that most wood you'll burn, such as varieties from your local tree service or landscaper, is about as green a fuel as there is available. This is largely because it is locally harvested and transportation impact is minimal. Green experts refer to this as a low "embodied energy."

Photo: Fulla T, Flickr

Myth: Unused chimneys don't need inspecting or cleaning.

Reality: The National Chimney Safety Institute of America recommends annual chimney inspection.

Cracks can develop within the structure, as well obstructions like bird nests. An annual inspection enables you to pinpoint and fix small problems before they become huge, expensive ones.

The Fix: A certified chimney sweep inspects operation of parts susceptible to wear and tear, such as the damper, the chimney's interior and exterior construction. They're also trained to recommend and complete maintenance upgrades including stainless steel flue liners, like the HomeSaver. They'll diagnose performance issues like weak draft, smoke that doesn't flow forcefully up the chimney.

A basic inspection usually costs around $200 and the price often includes a sweep (cleaning). Repairs or upgrades depend on severity of the problem, height of or access to the chimney, and other variables.

According to State Farm Insurance, a sweep should clean a chimney if he sees 1/8-1/4 inch of creosote buildup. Creosote, a tar-like substance that lines a chimney with a sticky flammable coating, is a product of combustion and accumulates in the flue. It is an infamous ingredient for some chimney fires.

You can find a certified chimney sweep by visiting www.NCSG.org or www.Chimneys.com, as well as learn more about Links to how your chimney works at www.CSIA.org.

SEE ALSO:
How to Clean Your Fireplace
Fireplaces to Warm Any Room [Apartment Therapy]
Practical Tips for Building a Fire [EPA]
Decorating a Fireplace Mantel [ShelterPop]

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

DIY Links: Easy, Low-Cost Weekend Projects

Cheryl Thompson — 2011-01-14T11:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Living Rooms, Dining Rooms, Small Spaces, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Is your bank account drained from holiday spending? This week, we're spotlighting DIY crafts and projects from around the web that won't bust your budget.

Photo: Martha Stewart

Have a table that has seen better days? You may feel that a lost leg and an array of scratches and nicks make it a candidate for the local dump, but think again. Cut off the side of the table with the bum leg and you've got yourself an eye-catching console! Click the link to for instructions. [Martha Stewart]

Photo: DIY Network

During the month of January you can find the lowest prices on flooring material. So take advantage of bargain-basement deals with a DIY floor project. Installing a prefinished hardwood floor is one of the easiest routes to take, as you avoid the extra work of sanding, staining and finishing -- all necessary evils of installing traditional hardwood. Here are step-by-step instructions to install prefinished wood floors yourself. [DIY Network]

Photo: Nate Berkus

Instead of spending money on new throw pillows, simply upgrade old ones using cable knit sweaters you picked up from a thrift store (or old ones you own but never wear anymore). With the pillow insert factored in, this project should cost under $20! [Nate Berkus]

Photo: Unplggd

Are your A/C and heating units an eyesore? With some plywood and a box of laminate flooring, you can turn an ugly unit into a trendy landing strip. Or build a beautiful mirrored frame to conceal it. Check out 10 DIY solutions to hide these units. [Unplggd]

Photo: Instructables

Reach for the stars with this spectacular DIY fiber optic star map. This indoor representation of the twinkling night sky is amazingly constructed from fabric, a fiber optic Christmas tree, LEDs, wire, and heat shrink tubing. [Instructables via Lifehacker]

Are you ready for some football? The NFL playoffs are heating up this weekend, and Holidash has the crafts that will score a touchdown with your tailgating guests. [Holidash]

Vintage Revivals; Remodel This House

Metallic accent furniture can be the perfect touch of glam, but the prices are often less than attractive. Instead of buying expensive metallic pieces, use some modpodge and aluminum foil to update a piece of furniture you already own. [Vintage Rivals]

Turn inexpensive clear vases into antiqued mercury glass. Just use silver leaf and glaze for a result that looks elegant and worldly. [Remodel This House]

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Refinishing Furniture with Martha Stewart Living's Kevin Sharkey

Laura Fenton — 2011-01-14T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Makeovers & Inspiration, Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Martha Stewart's right-hand man offers furniture refinishing tips and guidance for newbies and the faint of heart.

Kevin Sharkey shares his tips for refurbishing furniture as part of a blog tour for Martha Stewart Living magazine's January 2011 issue. Photo: Martha Stewart Living

When DIY Life was asked to participate in the week-long Martha Stewart Living Blog Tour, we jumped at the chance to get firsthand, Martha-approved advice about the art of refinishing furniture. We spoke exclusively with Kevin Sharkey, Senior Vice President and Executive Editorial Director, Decorating, and Executive Creative Director, Merchandising for Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia (yes, that's really his title!).

DIY Life is final stop in the tour, but don't forget to check out yesterday's post in Huffington Post's food section all about acheiving the most scrumptious roast chicken. And of course, head over to MarthaStewart.com for lots of top-notch DIY ideas for the new year!

Flea market finds are perfect candidates for furniture makeovers. Photos: Martha Stewart Living

We don't know about you, but sometimes we get a little hesitant about refinishing furniture. Even if we have a great armoire and a rich shade of espresso that we know will really make it pop, we think: What if we ruin it? What if we don't use the right paint? Should we stain it instead? So we asked Kevin Sharkey to address the concerns of DIYers who are new to refinishing furniture. Luckily, he put our fears at ease (hopefully yours, too).

DIY Life: When is it worth it to refinish a piece? And when is it not worth it?
Kevin Sharkey: It's really determined by what the piece means to you. If it's a family heirloom, like a Chippendale sideboard that you want to preserve and pass down, it's worth refinishing it. (Note: Sometimes a piece is worth more with a slight blemish than completely refinishing it.) However, I would recommend you consult with a professional. This should not be the first piece you attempt to refinish. But if you pick up a chair or table at a consignment shop or at a flea market, give refinishing a try. It's a perfect opportunity to try your hand at refinishing.

Make things even easier by starting with an unfinished piece like this Ingrid Table. Photo: Martha Stewart Living

DIY: What are the best pieces/types of furniture to refinish and why?
KS: I would say if you are new, start small: Chairs are ideal to refinish; so are small side tables or benches. Then as you build your confidence, you can try a bigger piece like a dresser, or sideboard. Obviously, the simpler the design, the easier the job. In general, square shapes are easier to refinish than round ones. Something with intricate carvings or turned legs should probably be handled by a professional. Painting a piece is a great option for the beginner. A flea market table can be upgraded easily with a simple but impactful coat of white or black paint.

An even easier approach is to buy an unfinished piece. This allows you to truly customize the look and try out refinishing in an expensive way.

DIY: What are the most common mistakes people make when embarking on a refinishing project?
KS: Not taking time to prep the piece properly. Like painting, 90% of the work is in the prep to achieve the desired result. Sanding, cleaning and priming the piece properly will pay off in final product. Sanding is key as it smooths imperfections and opens up the grain to receive the finish. Cleaning ensures there is no residual dust or residue that can mar the stain's appearance and priming or using a pre-stain will help you achieve consistent color and finish -- just like painting a room.

DIY: Can you ruin a piece of furniture while trying to refinish it?
KS: You can't really ruin a piece. If you make a mistake, there are ways to fix it. If you are staining and you have a blotchy spot, you can sand it down or apply a darker color to cover it up.

DIY: What advice would you give someone who is stripping a piece of furniture for the first time?
KS: Stripping is a pretty toxic process. Follow manufacturer's instructions diligently, and always wear proper protection.

DIY: What are some of the most common pitfalls to avoid when prepping a piece of furniture?
KS: Make sure you thoroughly sand the piece down. Don't rush because you are excited to get the stain on. Next, remember to thoroughly clean after the sanding process. Even the slightest residue can cause imperfections in the finish. I would recommend using a tack cloth, available at hardware stores; they're great for removing any sanding dust. A vacuum cleaner with the dust brush attachment is also a good option. The last thing to avoid is rushing through the coats of stain. It's critical that each layer dries completely before applying the next one.

DIY: How do I choose between different finishes? Should I use wax, oil, polyurethane?
KS: It depends on the look you want to achieve. Other factors include how you will use the piece. If, say, a table is going to be placed in a busy traffic area to corral mail, keys, etc., you will probably want to go with polyurethane or a high-gloss finish. This will be make the finish more durable.

DIY: Do you have any special tools that you use when refinishing furniture?
KS: The manufacturer always directs you to the best tools for the job. For example, if the stain recommends applying the product with a cotton rag, use one to achieve the best results. When sanding in hard to reach spots, a course, use a steel wool pad rather than sand paper; a steel wool pad mold easier to these areas. The same thing applies to the type of brush. If you are using an oil paint, thr manufacturer may recommend a synthetic brush then say a milk paint which is typically applied with a natural-bristle variety. For pieces that have a sizable area to cover, consider using a small paint roller. This works well for styles with flat surfaces such as a simple chest of drawers.

DIY: Do certain types of wood take certain types of paints and stains better than others?
KS: First and foremost, it's always helpful to identify the species (i.e. maple, birch) to help determine the best process. But in general, if you have an antique farmhouse table that is made of oak and has beautiful wood grain, you'll want to preserve that look. A stain is ideal for this. However, if a pine side table has visible knots, you may want to cover those. Here, you could use paint, milk paint, or even spray paint, like our line of Martha Stewart Living paints at Home Depot, which is wonderful for painting furniture pieces.

Try your hand at this DIY project. Photo: Martha Stewart Living

Feeling inspired? Get started on one of these refinishing projects this weekend!

- Make an Impact With Pattern: Another interesting way to use paint on furniture is to create a contemporary pattern on a classic piece, as the editors from MSL have done at left. This caned bed's look was achieved using a hardware-store staple, blue painter's tape.

- From Eyesore to Eye-Catching: Budget Furniture Makeovers. Check out these wallet-friendly ways to transform old furniture into dazzling updated focal points.

- DIY Warrior: Refurbish a Concrete Porch. A once-charming front porch crossed over from shabby chic to utterly disgusting. Sound familiar? Take a peek at this porch makeover.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

DIY Centerpieces for Thanksgiving

Kristine Solomon — 2010-11-22T08:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Dining Rooms, Holidays, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Craft a festive Thanksgiving centerpiece in no time with these stress-free projects.

A maize-and-candle Thanksgiving centerpiece. Photo: ShelterPop

Let's face it: The turkey -- however scrumptious it looks -- does not qualify as a Thanksgiving centerpiece. If you're hosting this year, wow your guests by creating an expected focal point for the table. Our pals over at ShelterPop and Holidash have some festive table-toppers that will set just the right tone for your Thanksgiving feast.

Photo: ShelterPop

A maize-and-candle Thanksgiving centerpiece. ShelterPop provides instructions for five centerpieces that revolve around that ubiquitous first-Thanksgiving symbol: Indian corn. Our favorite is this vertical arrangement of about a dozen ears surrounding a simple hurricane candle (pictured above), but other projects include a vintage-looking vignette and a collection of corn nestled on a bed of wheat.

Holidash -- AOL's go-to holiday site -- has assembled some of Martha Stewart's greatest hits, with centerpieces that include this very modern arrangement of patterned ceramics and citrus fruits, tableaus of realistic-looking pumpkin and gourd candles, and cascading clusters of grapes.

Have any original ideas for Thanksgiving centerpieces? Share your projects in the comments below!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Last-Minute Home Fixes for the Holidays

Cheryl Thompson — 2010-11-19T11:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Holidays, Living Spaces

The stress of cleaning and preparing your house for guests can sometimes damper your holiday spirit. Before you morph into the Grinch, get your home in top shape for company and festivities with these stress-free household fixes.

Prepare your home for holiday guests. Photo: Getty Images

'Tis the season for holiday guests -- and quite possibly your annual household cleaning and repair meltdown. Throw in your unfinished home improvement projects and you just might drive yourself crazy in the pursuit of a presentable and full-functioning house. What you need to do first is breathe. From cleaning upholstered furniture to replacing broken tiles, you've got this on lock. We're here to help you with your annual holiday home tune-up by presenting some of our favorite quick fixes. Your guests will think you never even broke a sweat.

ENTRYWAY
Make a great first impression on your guests by presenting a flawless entryway.

Photo: JKonig, Flickr

After giving door frames and knobs a quick wipe down:

- Brighten faded carpets and rugs with hot water and salt. The salt brightens faded fiber and guards against further discoloration.

- Repair pesky scratches and chips in hardwood floors. All the foot traffic in your home eventually takes a toll on once-pristine floors. Use these easy cover-up solutions and none of your guests will be the wiser.

- Unstick a door. Don't leave guests out in the cold! If your door never seems to close quite right, follow these tips to diagnose and treat the problem.

GUEST ROOMS
Be the consummate host: create warm, welcoming, and fully functioning guest rooms.

Photo: jupiterimages

- Make your guest feel right at home. Start by making the bed like a pro, as it's the first thing company will notice. A neat, tidy bed immediately upgrades any bedroom.

- Remove mattress stains. For faint, superficial stains use a cup of powdered laundry detergent and a cup of warm water. For tougher stains, use these cleaning strategies and employ white vinegar or hydrogen peroxide.

KITCHEN
Get rid of clutter by corralling loose papers into an organized pile and stashing countertop appliances in cabinets or closets. Then turn your attention here:

Photo: Corbis

- Clean your range hood. Remove grease, odor and food spatter with these simple tips.

- Troubleshoot your coffee grinder. It's sure to be a popular appliance with a house full of guests, so keep your grinder operating at its best.

- Remove scuff marks from floors. From toothpaste to pencil erasers, try these clever tools for removing shoe marks from linoleum floors and make your kitchen look flawless.

- Unclog gas stovetop burners. If you've got a few pins lying around, just follow these steps to clean them safely and quickly.

- Repair chipped china. Serve your guests in style with a careful repair job that can make any damage almost unnoticeable. Super glue and enamel paint gets the job done!

- Quiet squeaky cabinets. It's a household imperfection that can annoy just about anyone. Make cabinets squeak-free with Elmer's Slide-All Dry Spray Lubricant.

BATHROOM
Hide clutter in drawers, cabinets or store it in another room that guests won't enter. Then:

Photo: Corbis Images

- Clean soap scum on glass shower doors. Wipe down the doors with a squeegee for a beautiful streak-free shine.

- Replace broken tiles. Whether it's a hairline crack or a complete break, it's easier than you think to replace a loose tile.

- Pinpoint a toilet leak. Fact: a working toilet is a must-have during the busy holiday season. With guests pouring in and out of your home, there's also a chance your toilet may start to act a little fishy. Here are tips to diagnose toilet problems.

- Unclog the toilet. So you've figured out the problem, now get your toilet back in working order quickly.

- Remove hard water stains. Sometimes regular bathroom cleaner can't remove rusty stains. Here's what you can do to prevent and remove that stubborn grime.

- Clean grout. Significantly brighten up the bathroom by using just a few simple tools to clean the white mortar between your tiles.

- Unclog your showerhead. Restore optimal water pressure by removing hard water deposits that cause drippy water flow.

LIVING ROOM
Work magic into this gathering space -- and make it with tricks designed to clean, conceal and remove dirt.

Photo: Getty Images

- Clean upholstered furniture. Use these tips to help your upholstered furnishings look and smell great.

- Remove stains from sofa cushions. Try these stain removers to permanently bust reappearing stains.

- Conceal a scratch on an LCD screen. You can't completely remove scratches from these flashy TV screens, but you can camouflage them effectively--just in time for your holiday movie marathon.

- Remove crayon stains around the house. Living with kids is a blessing and colorful. Here's how to remove waxy Crayola from the popular danger zones in your home.

- Clean leather furniture. Restore the luster to your leather upholstery with simple products you have around the house.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

DIY Diary: What We Learned From Our Energy Audit

Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien — 2010-11-01T15:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Our writer was curious about energy audits, so she invited a professional energy consultant to perform one on her home. Now she has the skills it takes to save energy and money with some simple DIY fixes and routine household upkeep. And so can you!

A professional energy consultant uses an infrared camera to conduct an energy audit. Photo: Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien

I'm no stranger to energy efficiency. I'm well-versed in ENERGY STAR appliances and compact fluorescent light bulbs. But I have to be honest: I'd never had an energy audit before. I've read plenty of articles that stated how beneficial it can be to get one performed in your home. But until recently, I was clueless about what an energy audit actually entails or why it's important.

So I hired Sherard Murphy of Pro Energy Consultants and tagged along as he completed an energy audit on my mom's 1940s New Jersey home. I learned that an energy audit is one of the smartest investments you can make in your home. In a nutshell, the energy consultant uses special technologies to uncover building shell problems that typically go undiscovered and unresolved by builders, architects, and insulators. My mom walked away with a boatload of information about how to make her home more energy efficient, which equates to considerable savings in her energy bill and a home that's comfortable in the chilly days of winter and the hot days of summer.

Before sharing the details about the audit, I want to bring up a key point that I learned through this process. Not all energy audits are going to be the same. One consultant may suggest changes that total about $4,000, while another may suggest a few hundred dollars' worth in fixes for the same space. Some energy consultants will push certain brands and fixes to your home that you may not necessarily need. It's important ro choose an independent energy consultant who's not affiliated with a company. An independent consultant, like Pro Energy Consultants, will likely cost a little more (about $360 for an energy audit), but it's worth it because you're getting a thorough, unbiased assessment of your house. Imagine you hire an energy consultant who's associated with a window company, for instance. You're likely to hear that you need new windows.

The energy auditor's tool box. Photo: Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien

Also, be wary of any energy consultant who walks in with just a clipboard and a pen. An energy audit is a scientific process that requires many specialty tools (see the tool box above) and a clear understanding of the science of a home. With Sherard of Pro Energy Consultants, we didn't feel pressured to buy anything; he just made suggestions that made sense.

Of course, once you hire someone to do an energy audit once, you can perform your own energy audits in the future. A professional's toolkit contains a lot more sophisticated equipment than you might care to (or be able to afford to) buy. For instance, many professionals use infrared cameras to locate air leaks (the cameras are able to detect changes in air temperature). But you can improvise with more basic tools (for instance, use an incense stick instead of a high-tech smoke stick). The U.S. Department of Energy offers this guide to DIY energy audits.

Now, back to our professional energy audit. Here's what I learned:

1. Newer is Not Always Better
Case in point: My mom's house has its original single-pane wood-frame windows with storm windows on the outside. Sherard noted that her windows work really well; there's no immediate need to switch them out for newer energy-efficient models. Also, the existing radiators were designed to sit right under the windows, and Sherard pointed out that this was a smart design. This way, the radiator breaks up the convection current from the window and eliminates a draft.

Covering the sump pump is a cheap, effective way to curb basement moisture. Photo: Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien

2. Cover the Pump
My mom's sump pump needed a cover (which costs about $12. Easy!). The open sump pump was increasing the humidity in her basement storage room. It let the moisture seep into the rest of the basement. And the last thing a basement needs is more moisture!

Holes in the ceiling insulation are best filled with spray foam. Photo: Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien

3. Spray Foam to the Rescue
By far, the most common fix that Sherard suggested through the audit was to seal up energy leaks. In the basement, holes in the ceiling insulation and an used leaky window were in dire need of sealing. Sherard suggested using spray foam. He also found drafts behind most of the electrical outlets, and suggested caulking around the outlets.

4. Big Leaks Overhead
We found out that my mom's attic is the site of one of the home's biggest energy leaks. The attic hatch has been allowing hot air from the attic to seep into the second floor of the house during the summer; likewise cold air during the winter. Sherard suggested placing an airtight attic tent above the pull-down attic stairs to provide a thermal and air seal between the attic and the second floor. Whenever she wants to go in the attic, she'll simply unzip the tent.

5. Blower Doors and Smoke Sticks
One of the biggest parts of the energy audit was creating a blower door. Sherard installed a parachute-style door in one of my mom's doorways, with a big blower fan in the bottom of the door to simulate actual wind. Then we closed every window and door in the house and turned the fan on. The blower door helped show Sherard the dynamics of the entire building envelope, and highlight where there were drafts and energy leaks. Sherard also used a smoke stick, which emits a visible, non-toxic smoke to help you detect drafts coming through doorways, windows, outlets, recessed lights, and so on. It's pretty cool to actually see your energy leaks! (Use a powerful floor fan and an incense stick to perform your own blower door test).

The energy efficiency pro used a smoke stick to detect leaks around the basement window. Photo: Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien

All in all, my mom's house fared pretty well in the energy audit. And we learned so much about the way a house works through Sherard's assessment. And it was so easy to follow Sherard's suggestions. Fixing the house's energy leaks required one stop to The Home Depot to pick up an attic tent, sump pump cover, chimney balloon, and loads of spray foam.

And we're already feeling the difference. Typically, I need to wear a fleece jacket inside my mom's house once the temperature drops. No longer. Post-energy audit, my mom's home feels so much more comfortable. And when she receives her next heat and electrical bills, I'm sure she'll feel even better.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Don't Let the Bedbugs Bite!

Francesca Clarke — 2010-08-27T14:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

An immature bedbug (left) and an adult bedbug. Photo: Tim McCoy, AP

Just the thought of it makes you cringe. Like it or not, bedbugs are making a comeback, and they don't discriminate. Here's what you need to know about avoiding a bedbug infestation -- and how to recognize and treat the problem if it happens to you.

Chances are, you've been hearing a lot about bedbugs lately, and with good reason. In August 2010, reports of bedbug infestation climbed drastically, signaling an epidemic that, according to CBS News, is the worst our country has seen in decades.

(SEE: The 15 most most bedbug-infested cities in the U.S.)

Sure we all know the old saying, "don't let the bedbugs bite," but what are bedbugs anyway? In short, they're bloodsucking parasites that feed primarily on humans (but may also bite pets).

In their quest for food, bedbugs may find their way into homes, where they commonly infest sleeping areas (hence their name), but also lurk inside other furniture and even in walls. They feed at night, and often go unnoticed by the host (that's you). Bedbugs can live six to eight months without a meal -- and the suckers can be nearly impossible to kill.

(SEE: A bedbug survivor's horrifying real-life experience.)

Understanding Bedbugs
A bedbug problem can be difficult to identify. And once you have discovered an infestation, it can be even more difficult to navigate the next steps. We turned to Ron Harrison, Ph.D., Orkin Director of Technical Services, and Jeffery White, Research Entomologist with Bed Bug Central, for their expert advice on avoiding, identifying, and dealing with a bedbug infestation.

Bedbugs become engorged and dark in color after they bite. Photo: AP

The first step, says Harrison, is understanding where bedbugs come from, and why they seem to be everywhere right now. "The resurgence in bedbug activity is likely linked to increased travel, both internationally and domestically," says Harrison. Of course, widespread information about the elusive bedbug in recent years may also play a part. "People's awareness of bedbugs has increased, leading to more reported cases as people now know what they're dealing with."

"Bed bugs were virtually eradicated from the U.S. shortly after the end of World War II due to the commercial use of DDT," adds White. He explains that about ten years ago bedbugs began appearing again, and since 2005 their numbers have been increasing exponentially.

Avoiding Bedbugs
Harrison calls bedbugs "expert hitchhikers" that will cling to clothing and other personal belongings and usually go unnoticed. You can come in contact with them just about anywhere, indoors or outdoors.

It's also been widely reported that secondhand furniture can introduce bedbugs into your home -- bedbugs especially like to live inside of wood furniture, upholstery and, of course, mattresses.

(SEE: Use a Mattress Encasement for Bedbug Prevention)

So what about the thrift store and flea market junkies among us? Harrison recommends treating secondhand items with extreme heat before bringing them into your home. "Clothing [should be washed and dried] in a hot cycle prior to being brought into the house. This will kill all stages of the insect."

You can unknowingly carry bedbugs into the home via infested secondhand furniture. Photo: Mustafa Ozer, AFP/Getty Images

You can also consider purchasing the Packtite portable heating unit for items, like household furnishings, that cannot go in a dryer. Check out this video about treating personal belongings before they come into the house, and this video about using the heat of the sun for items that cannot be laundered.

Do Dirty Conditions Breed Bedbugs?
It's a common misconception that bedbugs plague only dirty places, as evidenced by recent infestations in some high-end locations, like The Hamptons in New York. As blood-feeders, bedbugs are primarily interested in people -- regardless of their surroundings. So where does the myth come from? "Bedbugs tend to infest cluttered areas where they can hide, feed and reproduce," says Harrison. "But these places are not necessarily the dirtiest. The clutter simply provides more hiding spaces and makes detection even more difficult."

Recognizing Bedbugs
Unless you're looking, you'll likely miss the chance for early detection.

-- Bedbug bites: For most people, the earliest (and sometimes only) signs of bedbugs are their bites. Bedbug bites often appear clustered together in a horizontal line. They generally manifest as small, red, itchy bites. But people react differently to bedbug bites and it can be difficult to confirm an infestation by the bites alone. While bedbugs do carry diseases, they do not transmit them.

-- Bedbug appearance: If you suspect a bedbug infestation, look for evidence of the bugs and their eggs. Bedbug eggs are a pearly white color and just 1mm long. Immature bugs are the same size as their eggs and somewhat translucent in color with a dark center. As the bugs advance through their developmental stages they become larger and darker. A fully grown bed bug is just under 3/16 of an inch long (roughly the size of an apple seed), flat and oval-shaped. They are a light tan or brown color until after they bite, when they will appear a brownish-red. Jeffrey White of Bed Bug Central shares this video about how to inspect for bed bugs.

An adult bedbug is about 3/16 of an inch long. Photo: Ken Lambert, MCT

-- Bedbug waste: Bedbugs leave brownish-red spots and shed skins in their wake. " You need to be familiar with...what the [bedbug's] spotting (fecal material and blood spots) looks like," says White. "It's important to inspect likely areas of first infestation, such as the bed and the headboard." White warns to pay close attention to the bottom of the box spring, where the insects like to congregate. Even with your best sleuthing efforts, though, bedbugs can outsmart you. They hide very well and move very fast as soon as they're exposed to light. White says that if you're not trained to perform inspections, you can easily overlook bedbugs. Contacting a knowledgeable professional may be your best bet.

How to Get Rid of Bedbugs
Even the keenest of DIYers may not be be able to take on the virtually indestructible bedbug. This is one of those jobs that, in most cases, is best left to professionals. A qualified pest management expert will recommend the best treatment approach depending on the severity of the infestation. Most solutions require chemicals, with structural fumigation being the most extreme (and costly) option. It will likely require at least two or three visits -- but usually more -- to ensure that the entire bedbug population has been eradicated. Sadly, you may also have to discard your mattress, bed, and some other belongings to make a fresh start.

"The biggest thing a homeowner or property manager can do to help slow the spread of bed bugs is to remove clutter and dispose of any infested items, like cardboard boxes, furniture, papers, and toys. These can provide hiding spots for bedbugs," says Harrison. The Orkin specialist also suggests aggressively vacuuming around the home, especially near baseboards and the bed.

Also, turn up the heat on those suckers. "Bedbugs cannot survive severely high temperatures for long durations of time, so regularly washing and drying clothes and linens in hot water can help remove them," says Harrison. Some pest management companies also also offer heat treatment (in some locations), which raises the room's temperature beyond that in which bedbugs can survive. While this may not be a suitable option for all infestations, it is certainly worth inquiring about.

Interested in learning more? Bed Bug TV is a great resource, where Jeffrey White educates viewers about bedbugs and bed bug solutions. He is the Bed Bug Guru, and somehow manages to make the topic approachable.

Tell us about your experiences with bedbugs, and how you banished those bloodsucking pests from your home for good!

SEE ALSO:
Are Bedbugs a Health Threat? (AOL Health)
A Very Personal Tale of a Truly Horrifying Bedbug Infestation (ShelterPop)
Bedbugs on Clothing -- How to Spot 'Em, How to Get Rid of 'Em (Stylelist)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Inspired By HGTV's Design Star: Rug-Covered Ottoman

Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien — 2010-08-20T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Living Rooms, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Contestant Casey Noble sizes up her flat-weave rug. Photo: HGTV.com

Recently on HGTV's Design Star, contestants (brilliantly) crafted an ottoman using a flat-weave rug. Want to recreate this now-famous furniture project right at home? Now you can.

Have you been following this season's Design Star on HGTV? I'm totally addicted.

One of the highlights this season has been contestant Casey Noble's idea to transform a rug into an ottoman in the episode featuring the Dining Room Challenge. I loved how this piece turned out; a perfect example of clever repurposing of existing household items. I've even seen a couple furniture companies selling ottomans upholstered with vintage rugs.

Inspired by Casey's rug-turned-ottoman, I looked into how to DIY it.

A flat-weave floor covering, like the one Casey used, is the best option for a DIY rug ottoman because it behaves like thick upholstery fabric. (A fluffier rug would be difficult to wrap around the ottoman without bunching.) A round ottoman/stool like the one Casey made over is considered a boudoir stool. The seat is low and not heavily padded, making it an utterly doable DIY project -- no excuses!

HGTV.com

1. Strip the piece down to the frame. When you're reupholstering a piece of furniture, this is always the first step. Remove all the tacks, nails, and staples, keeping the fabric and foam in place.

2. If the foam needs replacing, create a pattern for it. Drape a piece of craft paper over the frame and outline around the edge of the frame. Bring your template in to a local foam center to get a custom piece of foam for your ottoman. (In New York, I go to Economy Foam and Futon.)

3. Spray the top and sides of the foam with a spray adhesive. I recommend using 3M Foam Fast Adhesive. Wait five minutes for the glue to become tacky and then attach to the wood frame.

4. Make a rolled edge with the rug. In his Book of Upholstery, Matthew Haly explains how a rolled, or rounded, edge is typically found on upholstered stools. Spray the side of the foam with 3M Foam Fast Adhesive, being careful to spray only the top half of the side. Tuck the bottom edge of the foam using an upholstery regulator -- a handheld tool resembling a giant needle, which is designed to make adjustments to furniture stuffing. With your other hand, pull the top edge of the foam over the bottom edge and press firmly into the frame. Continue this all the way around the ottoman.

HGTV.com

4. Use a layer of Dacron over the foam. Experienced upholsterers use this trick to help prevent the foam from degrading. To attach the piece of Dacron, spray the foam all over with a fast tack upholstery spray adhesive. Wait two minutes until the adhesive is tacky, then drape your Dacron over the foam. Staple it to the ottoman using a staple gun, as seen above by Design Star contestant Courtland Bascon. It's best to position the first staple in the center front of the form, then center back, followed by the center points of the two sides.

5. Measure and cut your rug. Use a cloth tape measure to measure the diameter of the padded ottoman top. Add four inches to the diameter (so you have extra to wrap the rug under the ottoman) and cut a square with sides that are that length.

6. Drape your rug over the ottoman, and pin the edges of the foam in a few spots. Smooth your hand over the rug to make sure the tension is consistent; that's the key to getting a smooth, polished look. Use upholstery tacks to pin the rug around the circumference of the ottoman frame. Carefully smooth down the rug as you work.

7. Stretch the rug around the form, and staple the rug to the underside of the form. Shoot the staples on an angle and keep them about 1/2" apart. Remove the upholstery tacks as you staple around the ottoman. Trim any excess fabric once you're done.

HGTV.com

This is the finished ottoman (far right), as seen in the dining room in the Dining Room Challenge episode of Design Star. Pretty cool, huh?

This Sunday is the season finale of Design Star. I'll be watching the final challenge for sure. Who do you want to win - Emily or Michael?

SEE ALSO:
Forget Design Star: Meet the Real Nina Ferrerr (ShelterPop)
Multitasking Furniture: Beautiful, Affordable Pieces That Save Space (Networx)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

The Daily Fix: Brighten Faded Carpets and Rugs

Francesca Clarke — 2010-07-28T08:45:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Martin LaBar, Flickr

Sunlight is notorious for fading carpet and rug fibers. Here's a natural way to dial up the color.

"Keep your curtains drawn." That's the advice one friend gave me when I was soliciting ideas for how to brighten my carpets and prevent further fading. But sunshine is essential in my home, and I'll live with faded carpets if I have to. The good news? I don't have to.

I discovered a natural way to brighten carpet fibers, so I tested this method on a small area rug that was lacking in luster. Now that I know how well it works, I plan to make my way through the rest of the house, bringing life to our tired and faded area rugs and carpets.

All you need is hot water and salt. The salt brightens faded fiber and guards against further discoloration. Some suggest that ammonia is a necessary ingredient. It's possible that that would yield an even more impressive result, but this solution worked well too, and without being harmful to pets and children (and to all of us really!).

I was thrilled to find out that the process not only brightened my carpets and will guard against further fading but it also took care of some minor stains. I'm going to add this one to my Spring Cleaning list for next year:

http://xml.channel.aol.com/xmlpublisher/fetch.v2.xml?option=expand_relative_urls&dataUrlNodes=uiConfig,feedConfig,localizationConfig,entry&id=915838&pid=915837&uts=1280256998

http://www.aolcdn.com/ke/media_gallery/v1/ke_media_gallery_wrapper.swf

Brighten Faded Carpets and Rugs

Use equal parts salt and hot water.

Brighten Faded Carpets and Rugs

Stir in the salt until it dissolves, and wait until the water is cool enough to handle.

Brighten Faded Carpets and Rugs

Grab your handheld or floorstanding vacuum and give the carpet a once-over.

Brighten Faded Carpets and Rugs

Dip a clean rag in the water and wring it out so it is just damp. Resist the temptation to think that more is better. It really is just meant to be a damp wash, any more and you'll be struggling to get salt deposits off the carpet. I made this mistake, so take my word for it. You only need a damp cloth.

Brighten Faded Carpets and Rugs

Wash the faded area with your dampened cloth (microfiber cloths are best).

Brighten Faded Carpets and Rugs

Let the rug dry, then vacuum it again. You should notice a subtle brightening!

Brighten Faded Carpets and Rugs

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Energy Savings: Windows

Amy Preiser — 2010-06-28T08:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Living Spaces

John Giustina, Getty Images

One week into summer -- are you feeling it yet? Last week we kicked off our Energy Savings series by showing you how to conserve power while using kitchen appliances. Now we're tackling the potential energy-zappers in every room in the house: windows.

As much as 20 percent of summer heat enters your home as sunlight through windows. Check out these clever tips on how to save a bundle and keep your home more energy-friendly.

Getty Images

Tip #1: Upgrade the Sealing Around Your Windows
With new windows, there's often a gap between the jamb and framing where air sneaks in. A blower door (a powerful type of fan) and infared camera can help identify exactly where the leak is and you can then caulk the area near the casing, stool and apron. No luck with that? Remove the casing and use spray foam around the window jamb.

Tip #2: Check That Your Windows Are Low-E
Thinking about window film as a way to buff up your windows' efficiency? If your windows are already Low emissivity (low-e), then don't waste your time, window film won't make much of a difference. Not sure if you've got low-e windows in the first place? Place a white sheet of paper outside and look at its reflection in the window. Seeing a white reflection? Not low-e. But if it's showing up yellow or pink than it's probably low-e. And remember this: films are hard to remove, and because they can heat up the glass they may damage your dual-pane windows.

Tip #3: Install Energy-Efficient Replacement Windows
In the market for new windows? Your best bet are Energy Star-rated windows. Make sure they're properly installed (shoddy work can be a major source of energy loss) and double-glazed. Yes, they're affordable, and they'll end up saving you money on cooling and heating by helping to keeping your home at a comfortable temperature.

Twilight Field Journal

Tip #4: Invest in a Black-Out Shade
While window films can fall short, the best external energy saver for your windows is a simple blackout roller shade. Make sure it's PVC-free fabric, so it's safe for kids' rooms. Other options to try: Solar screens, roman shades or solar blinds (though it's tricky to find these without PVC).

This information is courtesy of the U.S. Green Building Council. For more tips on saving energy and greening your home, visit USGBC's Green Home Guide.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments