In the past there were only a few choices for fence materials. You could put up a stone wall, block wall, brick wall, wrought iron, wood, or chain link. If you got creative you could combine a couple materials and get a fence/ wall by putting wrought iron on top of a brick base or wood panels between pilasters of block or stone.

Today the number of choices and alternative materials has exploded. Plastic, aluminum, and man made stone have given the homeowner a plethora (see, a college education can pay off!) of choices to choose from.

I am going to try to sort through some of the more popular choices for you based on affordability, difficulty of installation, looks, and durability. Hopefully this will make your choices clearer and easier to make.

Natural Fencing/ Wall Materials

I am going to start with natural materials. These are fences or walls that are made with materials found in nature.

Stone: The most difficult and expensive is a stone wall. A stone wall will look beautiful, and is very durable and strong. (C'mon, look at China's Great Wall -- we are talking MAJOR strength and durability!) The drawback is that once you choose the stone you want, you will have to have it installed.

Putting in a natural stone wall is best left to someone who has years of experience selecting which stones will look best on the outside (versus ugly stones best suited for filling in the width), and which stones will need an artistic whack or two with a rock hammer for the best fit. Installation is as much about art and mastery of stone shaping as it is about the labor of stacking the stones.

Wood: The most common natural material used is wood. In addition to being a natural product, wood is renewable when harvested in a managed method that allows for regrowth and replanting of harvested areas. Whether you are talking about dog eared, palisade, tongue and groove, or lattice fencing, it all comes down to nailing pieces of cut trees together.

There are many different styles of wood fencing to be had, and the cost of a wood fence can vary greatly depending on how trick you wish to make it. If simple and inexpensive are your style, a basic dog eared fence is probably right for you. If you are looking for a more architectural style you could use tongue and groove pickets with a lattice top for a sophisticated look, albeit at a much greater price.

Installing a wood fence is definitely a DIY project. The materials are easy to find, easy to work with, and no really special tools or knowledge are needed to do it properly. The drawback is definitely durability, and to a much lesser extent, strength. Wood will not take the abuse of stone or other hard materials, and even properly maintained and constructed wood fences will eventually succumb to rot, insects, or old age. Strength becomes an issue when the fence ages or when faced with things like high winds or heavy snow loads. It just cannot compete with stone or other hard materials there. I don't know about you, but I haven't seen a block, brick or stone wall blown over by anything less than hurricane force winds!

Unnatural Materials (Man Made in Other Words)

Walls and fences from man made materials are also available. Some of these are more eco-friendly than others, and costs vary greatly..

Block and Brick: Materials like block (or cinder block if you must) and brick provide the greatest strength and durability. However, like stone, they require the most labor and expertise to install. These materials are cheap, look fairly easy to work with, and the tools couldn't be simpler to the naked eye. Once you try to properly load the mortar onto a block or brick and then put it in place and smooth it out, you will change your mind.

Solid material walls like this also tend to have much more stringent requirements as far as local building codes. These walls tend to look pretty plain once installed. You can use different styles and colors of block or brick to dress up the look, but in the end it will still be pretty plain. You can really dress it up if you are willing to spend a lot more cash though.

Man-made stone veneers are readily available from building supply stores for you to give your plain wall a natural stone look, but the cost in additional labor and materials can be prohibitive. In order to be more environmentally friendly you can try to locate real used brick as opposed to using new bricks that are manufactured to look used. Architectural salvagers are the place to look for these materials.

Plastic and vinyl have also made their presence felt in the fencing arena. There are a variety of solid and hollow product to choose from. All these products are definitely DIY friendly.

Vinyl : Hollow vinyl was the first "plastic" fencing material to gain acceptance, and it is available in a very wide selection of styles. It can be used to simulate the look of wrought iron, picket, or dog ear fence styles to name a few. It generally is available only in white, but sometimes you can find a sand or beige color.

The advantage to this material is that there is no maintenance other than hosing it off every now and then. The posts and panels are also very easy to install. Posts get set like wooden posts, and yes they remain hollow. No need to insert wood. Four clips are used to attach the panels, and you are done.

The draw backs are cost and sizing. Vinyl fencing is significantly more expensive than wood. Also the panels are sized out so that you have to set your posts six feet on center instead of eight feet. Over the length of a long fence this can add up in additional labor and posts.

Cutting vinyl panels is also an issue. When you get to an odd sized panel you will probably have to disassemble the panel and re-glue it together after you make your adjustments. Pre made panels also mean that, much like the cover photo of this post, slopes will make your fence look odd. These fences will last a very long time as vinyl does age well, but their overall strength (measured on the "Angry Rottweiler" scale) is not high. A large, angry dog or drunken brother-in-law can break a panel without too much effort.

Composites: Another "plastic" fence is the composite fence. These are the logical extension of the plastic/ wood composite decking materials that have been around for a while. The post sleeves and panels are made from the same materials. Did you catch the reference to "sleeve"? With this material you do actually have to set WOOD posts into the ground, and then slide the composite sleeve over the top to give it it's finished look.

The panels are solid composite material, and, again, they are sized out at 6' on center. This material represents the most expensive material to choose, but it is durable, and depending on which maker you select, your composite fence can be almost indistinguishable from a real wood fence that has been given a clear coat of preservative.

The other drawback is that while you do not have to disassemble the panel to cut it, you will have to work around an assembled panel to do your cuts. Again this product will last indefinitely, and the solid construction will stand up to much more abuse than the hollow vinyl. Pre-formed panels will restrict its use on slopes. This product is fairly "green" as waste sawdust from sawmills and recycled plastics are often used as base materials for manufacture.

Vinyl Coated Wood: The last man made "plastic" material to discuss is actually a hybrid material. You can purchase wood that has been pressure treated to resist rot and insects, and then covered in a vinyl jacket. This material combines the best of both wood and plastic fencing. The vinyl is heat applied to the wood so that there is no chance of it coming off.

You buy this material in the same manner as a wood fence. You can even buy color matching hardware ,and you can buy a sleeve to seal up any cut that you need to make on the pickets. You assemble the posts, stringers, and pickets as you would a regular wood fence. The difference is that once you are done you can forget about having to maintain the fence other than washing it down.

Colors are limited, only white or beige as far as I know, but you do gain the ability to have an extremely durable plastic fence material that you can run up and down slopes because you assemble it one piece at a time. It is partially eco-friendly as the wood is a renewable resource. It will be as strong as a regular wood fence without the massive deterioration that occurs over the life of a regular wood fence.

Metals

Metal is the last fencing material to discuss.

Aluminum: In the past, wrought iron or chain link fences were your only choice, but now aluminum has joined the ranks. This new advent gives you the look of wrought iron with out the cost. You also lose the greatest risk to iron fencing: rust.

The drawbacks are significant though. The only color I have seen is black, but white is probably out there too, and if you really want a custom color you can spend a weekend painting it whatever color you want. Again, you can only buy pre-made panels so slopes are still out.

Also, the aluminum fence is for decoration only. If you try to climb or sit on the fence you will damage it. Look but don't touch. On that note it is also worth mentioning that you will be paying someone else to install this product because of its issues with fragility and availability. Of the metals, aluminum is the most eco-friendly as it is one of the most recycled materials in the country.

Wrought iron: Wrought iron gives you the greatest combination of looks and price when using metal for fencing. You can get as custom as you want to with your installer, or you can go simple and use pre-made panels from you local home center to save some cash. Slopes are in because even pre-made panels can be purchased with the ability to adjust to the angle you need.

These fences are very strong, especially if you have a custom installer that welds the pieces together instead of bolting. You generally purchase wrought iron either painted white or black, but you can paint them whatever color you like.

The drawback is rust. If you don't maintain a vigilant watch on your fence it can quickly get away from you, and you end up with peeling paint, rust stains, and structural weakness as the rust progresses. If you use pre-made panels you can do the installation yourself, but the best durability and design will come from a custom install that welds the parts together.

Chain link: Chain link fences are the last metal fence to discuss. We have all seen them. No, they are not pretty, but if you are looking to do a very long fence, this is the most economical way to do it. There are many different heights and lengths available to purchase. You can try to improve the look of the fence by getting chain link that is vinyl coated in different colors or you can buy colored slat material to weave through the fence to increase the looks as well as the privacy of the fence.

This is a very durable fence as all parts are galvanized to resist rust, and it is also very strong. (We have all climbed a chain link fence so we can attest to its structural strength.) The only real drawbacks are the looks, and the privacy factor, as in you get none. This is also a very DIY friendly product even as it is not particularly "green" friendly.

Hopefully you now feel ready to choose the proper material fro the look, price and durability that you want for your project. Good luck and happy DIY-ing!

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With the help of the other 2 previous chapters in our fence making and repairing trilogy you are now ready to put on the final touches. Setting your posts and hanging your stringers has left you with an excellent and formidable foundation for your fence. Now it is time to make your fence look finished.

Pickets are what give your fence it's style and flair. Your fence will be as attractive as you want to make it. You could end up with a basic, respectable fence, or you could have a fence that the neighbors envy and compliments the design of your landscape and home, if you are willing to put in the work.

No matter what style of fence you are going to choose to finish your project , the materials are all the same.

• Redwood or stained white-wood pickets. Figure on the length of your fence in feet x 2 for the number of 6" wide pickets you will need. Length x 3 is how many 4" pickets you will need. Length x 1.5 for the number of 8" wide pickets. If you are REALLY going to get freaky and mix sizes you will divide the length by 2 (or 3 if you are using 3 different sizes) and use the answer as the length you will multiply for the pickets you will need.
• Fasteners. Use either deck or galvanized drywall screws if you are going to use a screw gun to install the pickets. Use galvanized nails (preferably "ring shank") if you are using a hammer or a nail gun. (Lord I hope you are not doing this by hand!) Ring shank nails will provide greater grip than regular smooth shank nails. The fasteners should be 1¾ " to 2¼" long.
• A helper. You will need more than 1 set of hands to do this right.
• Level. You will need to check EACH picket for plumbness (That means that it is perfectly vertical) and that it is level with the last 2-4 pickets horizontally. (Obviously skip the horizontal check if you are working a slope.)
• Either a screw gun, hammer, or nail gun. (Please don't try to hang 50' with a hammer!)
• Power saw. Depending on the style, you will need either a circular or a jig saw.
• Sealer. You don't have to seal the pickets, but it will prolong their life. Some people want their fence to weather and fade in order to develop character so for those people a sealer is unnecessary.
• Optional: Post caps and 2' x 8' framed lattice to put on some polish. Chalk line or marking pencil.

Now that you have your materials gathered you need to decide on a fence style. The 2 basic styles are a basic privacy fence and the shadow box (or the "my neighbor paid for ½ of the fence") style.

Let's talk about the shadowbox style first. When you put up the pickets shadowbox style you will actually hang them on BOTH side of the stringers. Hopefully you will have thought of this and placed the stringer in the center of the post when you hung it. The first picket will snug up against the starting post (side doesn't matter, but size does.). Move the picket vertically so that you leave 1"-2" of clearance from the ground. I repeat: From the GROUND not the grass. This will allow water to drain while keeping out any unwanted chihuahuas.

Once the picket is snug to the post and set vertically, place the level against the picket to see if it is vertically plumb. Adjust the picket as needed to get plumb. Hold it in place, and fasten to the stringers with 2 fasteners per stringer. Avoid the temptation to place the fasteners in a straight line. If you do that you run the risk of weakening the stringer or even causing it to split. Offset the fasteners by about 1" to avoid this common pitfall.

For the second picket, place a "dummy" unfastened picket snug next to the first, and then place a third picket snug to the second. Align the 3rd picket vertically, and then adjust for plumbness. Attach the 3rd picket to the stringers. Repeat this process for all the pickets on this side of the fence.

If you find out that you can't align a picket horizontally because of uneven ground, you will need to set the offending picket against the ground and align vertically. Measure how far off you are from the last good picket, add 1"-2" for clearance, and then cut from the bottom. Now you will be able to align it horizontally as well as vertically. After one side of the fence is done you will need to repeat on the other side to complete the fence. Once all the pickets are hung, attach your post caps if you have them, and stand back to enjoy your handy work.

The other basic style is the privacy fence. This fence is the basis for many other styles. Once you put it up you can make it into a convex, concave, or lattice top. You can also change the look of the fence by mixing picket widths or by leaving space between pickets of either uniform or varied spaces. You can either use regular pickets or you can use a tongue and groove picket for the ultimate in a clean look. If you are going to put up a lattice top on your fence, I would recommend using the tongue and groove for the best look for your fence.

Installing the pickets is exactly the same as with the shadowbox style except you will attach every picket to only one side of the fence. You can hang pickets on both sides if you are really a masochist or if your neighbor is insisting because the shadowbox style didn't float his boat.

At this point you want to decide if you are going to use a uniform width or mix widths. If you are not sure, buy enough pickets of the different sizes to do one 8' section. Stand them against the stringers and step back to decide. Make sure you get your spouse's buy in at this point as no one wants to redo a brand new fence because 1/2 the homeowners hate the style.

Once all the pickets are hung you can start to customize. If you are going to put framed lattice as the top of your fence, measure how far down the stringer is from the top of the posts. Use either a level and pencil or a chalk line to mark that height on the outside of the pickets, and then cut them CAREFULLY. Place the framed lattice panel on the stringer, and nail it into place.

Making either a concave or convex fence is also fairly easy. Starting from the center point of your first panel, sketch out your curve, making sure to step back and get a second opinion to ensure that your curve is symmetrical. If you are doing a concave cut, make sure your curve does not cut into the stringer. If you are sketching a convex curve, make sure to mark and cut the posts as well as the pickets.

After you are satisfied with your curve, cut it out with a jig saw. Get some butcher paper or a huge piece of cardboard and trace this on to it so you can repeat it throughout the rest of your fence for uniformity and symmetry.

Once you are done playing with the pickets, attach post caps if you are going to use them. Apply sealer if you are going to use it, and you are done!

Now that your fence project is complete the heavens will sing your praises. Or maybe you will just get an "Attaboy" from your spouse and disappointed looks from the neighborhood dogs now that they can't fertilize your yard for you.

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OK, you have obviously read about how to set your fence post correctly and are now ready to put up the more of your fence (If you haven't read that article you should, really, I'm not kidding. Please don't make me beg!).

This will involve putting up the stringers (the 2x4s that connect to posts together and which the pickets attach to). Properly setting the posts helped determine how strong your fence will be, and the stringers and the pickets will determine the look of the project. Hanging your stringers properly will help further the structural integrity of the fence, and it will help make hanging the pickets easier.

Now buckle-up and get ready to hang 'em like you mean it!

In order to move ahead with your fence project you will need the following items:

• (2) 2x4-8' pieces of either pressure treated or redwood lumber for every space between posts.
• Either galvanized nails or coated deck screws 1½" long. You will need 8 fasteners per section if you toe nail. If you use A35 hardware you will need 36 nails per section.
• Either a power driver for screws or pneumatic nailer/ manual hammer for the nails.
• A level for flat runs of fencing.
• A saw, either hand or power.
• A helper to hold the stringers in place.
• A waterproofer.
• Either a sprayer or brushes to apply the waterproofer.
• A35 hardware from Simpson. Using these will require the use of nails and not screws.

The first step is to prep to hang your stringers. If you left 8' between posts you can hang the stringers with no cutting. If you installed them 8" on center you will need to cut the stringers to about 92¼" long. Always measure to make sure of your length. Also remember to measure the top stringer and bottom stringers separately. Warp, twist, and inaccuracy in post settings can mean that these two measurements are different enough to warrant separate cuts.

Next you need to mark your starting post to hang the stringers. Mark the post to accept the top stringer about 18" from the top. Mark the post about 30" from the ground for the bottom stringer.

You will then hang one side of the stringer to the post. Turn the stringer so that the larger face (the 4 side of the 2x4) will be the side that the pickets attach to. If you are just going to hang the pickets in a traditional solid wood fence style you will flush the stringer to the outside of the fence post. If you are going to install the pickets shadowbox style or with Gothic pickets you will need to hang the stringer dead center on the post.

When you attach the stringer to the post there are 2 ways to do it. You can either "toe nail' the stringers on or you can use hardware. Hardware is the recommended method.

To toenail the stringers to the post you nail or screw through the stringer and into the post at an angle. For screws you can start the screw straight into the stringer, and then as soon as it bites into the wood; apply lateral pressure to move it to the desired angle and finish driving it into the post.

For nails you drive them at the angle desired from the get go. Having a pneumatic nailer makes it very easy. Toe nail one end with 2 nails or screws (one on top side and one on the bottom), then use the level to make sure you hang the opposite side in the right spot; also with 2 fasteners. Repeat for every stringer of every fence section.

If you are going to use hardware you will need 2 of the A35 Simpson hangers per stringer for the fence. Bend the hangers according to the manufacturers instructions, and attach flush to the ends of the stringers. Attach one side to the post with the fasteners needed, and then use the level to make sure you hang the opposite side in the right spot. Repeat for every stringer of every section.

These methods will serve you well if you are working with fairly level ground. If you are going up or down a slope you will need a couple different things.

First i would recommend getting 10' pieces of 2x4 for your stringers to make sure that you don't have to try to stretch the 2x4s to work on the angle you need. Then mark both posts of every section at the recommended heights to make sure you keep a uniform angle. Also, with your helper holding the stringers in place, you can mark the angles you will need to cut to make sure you get good contact on both sides.

Finally, take this opportunity to use your waterproofer to make sure that the framework of your fence is protected by applying a coat to the stringers and posts now, before the pickets are hung, to make sure that all wooden members are given the maximum chance for a long healthy life span.

Now you are ready to pick out your pickets and hang them when next we speak.

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• AA Battery
• 10 Gauge wire (thinner wire will also work fine)
• Magnet
• Pliers to cut and form the wire

• Cut the wire to length, you can leave it slightly longer than needed and trim it later
• Snap the negative side of the AA battery onto the magnet
• Bend the wire in the desired shape, a heart shape is recommended for the best effect :)
• Place the wire on the positive pole of the AA battery and watch it spin

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• Get up in the morning early enough to easily do what you need to accomplish. Make eating a good breakfast a regular part of that routine.
• If you spend any time worrying that you might forget something, that's the time to write it down.
• Believe in the preventive maintenance of all things.
• Eat a varied and balanced diet most of the time and spoil yourself once in a while with foods you really like.
• The more exercise the better. We're built to move and I can prove it.
• Learn what procrastination is and know when you're doing it.
• Take a break once in awhile and survey your own accomplishments.
• Avoid credit cards whenever possible. This one works really good for me.
• Pray, meditate, think, ponder. These work good for me also.
• Remember that Babe Ruth struck out 1,330 times, Abe Lincoln became an attorney by lamplight and Mel Gibson couldn't give a rat's patootie about whether you like him or not.
• Don't be a liar.
• Dedicate 85% of your brain capacity to thinking and only 15% to operating your jaw.
• Get uncluttered or raise your tolerance for being cluttered.
• Find someone who has already had the problem you have and pick their brain.
• Apply the word love to your thought processes often.
• Learn the serenity prayer.
• Buy clothes you like.
• Remember that it's never too late to have a happy childhood.

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1. Drink lots of water. The more water you can drink, the better your body likes it. Unless you have some kind of obscure water intake restriction that I've never heard of, drink more water than you think you need. Yes, you'll pee a lot more, and that's the idea. Simply put, water, and lots of it, is essential to the proper operation of your entire human system. Specifically, the liver and kidneys need ample supplies of water to accomplish their body and blood cleansing functions. If you don't drink enough water, your urine becomes more concentrated and your body retains rather than flushes out foreign substances. If you maintain optimum hydration of your bodily systems, the nasty stuff that gets into you gets flushed out that much faster.
2. Maintain a healthy diet. The schools of thought on dietary health are so vast and varied that I don't make claim to know the perfect dietary strategy. However, what I do know is that a balanced variety of foods provides a greater cross-section of nutrients than a diet with specific focus on any one food group. I believe that the food pyramid is a reasonable guideline to use if it places easily digestible, high nutrient food groups higher on the quantity list, and relegates the more difficult to digest food items to smaller portions. The one fact that I won't compromise on is the truth that the closer you can get to your food's original form, the better it is for you. Highly processed foods just aren't as good for maintaining health as foods in their more natural state. Fresh foods are best because they are more readily utilized by your body. Processed foods often contain chemicals which are used for ease of manufacturing or to enhance shelf life. These added chemicals often put noticeable stress on your digestive system and are foreign to your body. I use for example hydrogenated oils... I rest my case.
3. Believe in vitamin C. As strange as it may seem, some people still scoff at the notion that vitamin C is helpful to your body in the fight against illness and disease. An online article from from Jane Higdon, Ph.D., for Linus Pauling Institute gives more than ample descriptions of the many positive health benefits which are believed to be associated with adequate vitamin C intake. Vitamin C is easy to get and it's a water soluble vitamin, so the body flushes out any excess you may ingest. If you make an effort to keep yourself sufficiently supplied with vitamin C, you'll be adding great strength to your arsenal of disease fighting weapons.
4. Get ample rest. This is one of the biggest health boosters you'll ever find, yet it's the one that most people fall short on. It's alright to compromise on sleep hours once in a while but if you want to remain within the upper tier of your potential, you need to provide the down time that your body demands. Look at it this way: If you short yourself two hours of sleep every night for a month, you will have gained about 60 hours of awake time. However, if those 60 hours of lost sleep cause you to become even mildly ill, you may suffer reduced productivity, or even incapacity, for anywhere from three days to three weeks. When you compromise on the amount of sleep that you know your individual body requires, you're going to trade something for that missed sleep. You must decide what that sleep trade-off is worth to you, and then rest accordingly.
5. Don't be a "germophobe." Our bodies process such a large volume of toxins and foreign substances every day that most people would be surprised to know what an effective illness fighter they already are. Don't live in fear of germs. Yes, do be conscious about keeping your surroundings clean, and, of course, wash your hands regularly, but don't fear the germs because as truth has it, you're surrounded by them constantly. It doesn't take much thinking to realize that by having your immune system continually dealing with a bit of this germ and a touch of that virus, it remains active and tuned, ready to immediately deal with a serious breech of your bodily defenses. It has been proven beyond question that people who remain in essentially sterile environments for extended periods nearly always become dangerously ill when re-entering the human commons environment because their immune systems have become complacent in the absence of challenge.
6. Maintain a positive attitude. No one can successfully challenge the truth that the healthier your thinking is, the healthier your body will be. It's a well known fact. Every cell in your body can and will react to the messages that your brain delivers. I have personally witnessed the great healing power of positive thought, prayer, and meditation. Conversely, I have also watched people slowly destroy their own health and well-being by continually feeding unhealthy energy through their bodily systems via their own negative mindset. Every one of us must face the challenges of daily living, and sometimes life gets down right ugly. It's up to you how you'll face those difficulties, and how you'll mentally prepare yourself for the inevitable rough times. Whatever your belief system is, be it faith-based, fate-based, or humanistic, if you take the route of first believing that you can be healthy, and use that as your launching point, your body will undeniably react in response to your belief.

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1. Distribute pre-sale flyers featuring key items; post them on bulletin boards at locations like the grocery store, the local library, and your post office ... and stick them on mailboxes. You might find that one of your neighbors will buy something even before the sale.
2. Place ads in local newspapers and circulars - If you have not written an ad before, here are some tips: Write quick-read, concise ads. Write when, where and what. Note key items such as antiques, toys or furniture. I did, and my unique children's furniture sold first thing ... with more than a few interested customers coming to check on those particular items.
3. Online classified sites are great for pulling in buyers from outside your area. Mention as many items as you can to attract collectors and post two or three days before the when serious shoppers map out their shopping routes. Ads are free on Craigslist.com and Garagesalehunter.com; Garagesalegal.com charges a small fee of $4.99.
4. Post "For Sale" signs and "Yard Sale" signs. Make large signs for your front yard and street corners. Keep your signage bold and bright, but readable, making letters at least 2-3" tall at a minimum. Black ink works well for information and colored markers for gaining general attention to signs. Also do not put too much information on a sign. Just include all pertinent information about the sale including: address, dates, times, and items sold (if it can fit.)
5. Don't forget to invite friends, neighbors, family members, church members, sports teams, or parents of your childrens' playmates.

1. Start off by setting the scene: Have music playing, something fun and upbeat can set the tone for your customers. Included, I let my kids have a lemonade stand at the yard sale too. Not only did it make people feel more welcome, if they had a drink in their hand it made them stick around longer looking at items and my kids go to walk away with a few dollars too.
2. As silly as it may seem, you should group your items by category, remember most shoppers come with particular items in mind. This also allows for an easy shopping experience and adds to the perceived value of the items.
3. Place furniture near the entrance to the sale - items of scale seem to draw people in.
4. If you are selling clothing, please have a rack or if you don't have one available stack clothes by size and type on tables. Placing items on the ground or mixed in a box forces customers to squat and discourages browsing. And, once a box filled with clothing is mixed and mingled you can be sure that no one will continue to go through it. I had my boys clothing marked by size and displayed nicely and found that people would take almost all the items in the size they needed. Also, if you are selling clothing , make sure it's stain free ... do yourself (and the shopper) a favor and throw out those items.
5. Kids toys should be separated from the other items so that adults can shop without a bunch of little ones crowding in to see the toys. You might want to put the toys as far from the street as possible too, so that moms needn't worry about their kids safety while they shop.
6. Have plastic bags (from the grocery store) handy for anyone clutching onto more than one item ... this will free them up to continue foraging through.
7. Be prepared to do demonstrations. In terms of electronics, have batteries on-hand and electrical sockets nearby to show how things work. Also, include manuals if available. If you don't have the instructions, check the Internet, which may have some manuals for the bigger name-brands' products.
8. Try to keep damaged items to a minimum. That said, there are shoppers who look to find items that they can get for a steal and fix up on their own. Just clearly mark any damaged items and label "as is," if you're unsure of how well an item works.

1. Mark all items clearly and try to use tags, it seems to add to the perceived value of each item and It also makes collecting the money easier. Use tags that will not damage sale item and try not to put stickers or labels on the item that leave a residue.
2. Charging in dollar increments keeps making change from being such a pain. I usually price kids' clothing at $1 per item, $2 to $5 for jackets, and things like jewelry at three or four pieces for $1 or $2. Keep in mind you can really sell a lot of small items that are priced to sell. I easily sold 20 items at $1 a piece to someone who wouldn't pay $50 for a piece of furniture ... so your small priced items may really bring in the big bucks.
3. For big ticket items, like a dining room table or a sofa, try to find the original cost of the item in a catalog and tape the photo with price to the item. This often confirms to the buyer they indeed are getting a very good deal, which will close the sale.
4. For yard sale shoppers who haggle, let them make the offer. You might be surprised that they are willing to pay even more than you would have suggested.
5. Keep your money in a cash box, not in your pocket. And, keep it in a safe location and remove money throughout the day. Don't forget to start the day with small denominations and coins.
6. When you only half an hour before you close, you might want to decide to cut prices by 50 percent. Remember the idea is to price your items so they do not come back into your house.

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• Electrical outlets and switch plates
• Window frames
• Baseboards
• Weather stripping around doors
• Fireplace and chimney dampers
• Attic doors and hatchways
• Window mounted and through the wall air conditioners

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• Freshen a smelly garbage disposal by slicing a lemon into the disposal and turning it on, running water into it until the lemon is gone.
• Clean glass shower doors by applying lemon juice with a sponge. For an unbeatable sparkling shine, dry with crumpled newspaper.
• You can remove ink from clothing by applying lemon juice on the ink stain. Wash the garment with regular detergent in cold water on the normal cycle. This has worked well for me with my two little artists, who everyday seem to get new ink stains. The clothes come out ink free every time. To remove fruit, baby formula stains, or rust from colored clothing, mix a paste of cream of tartar and lemon juice, check the fabric for color fastness, and apply the mixture, letting it sit for 15-30 minutes. When stain is gone, launder as usual.
• Rinse your hands with lemon juice to remove fruit and berry stains. Rub a lemon slice on your hands to remove garlic and onion smells, and then rinse your hands thoroughly.
• Pouring three to four teaspoons of lemon juice into the water in your humidifier will help to eliminate odors.
• To clean copper pots, rub a cut lemon with salt and use as a scrub. I had to do this for a few minutes, as mine were not so clean. Rinsing and buffing with a soft cloth gave a beautiful shine. You can clean silver with lemon juice and buff with a soft cloth, and you can remove tarnish from brass by using the same method.
• I always seem to get some stain on my countertops so I clean them off by scrubbing with a cut lemon and salt. Rinse well and dry. This works great for laminate and stone countertops. For kitchen tile grout, mix lemon juice with water and scrub with a toothbrush.
• You can make your own furniture polish that is much better for your furniture than what you can buy. All you need to do is mix the juice of one lemon, add one teaspoon each olive oil and water, and apply a thin coat to your furniture and buff to a deep, beautiful shine. Mix only what you need for a single use, as you will want to make a fresh batch every time you use it. I have found that the olive oil usually repels new stains.
• I have found that lemons and their juice just aren't for baking and cooking. Speaking of which I must go clean up and disinfect the cut my little one just got with some lemon juice.

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1. Pour 3 tablespoons of cooking oil and 1/3 cup of pop corn (white or yellow) into any heavy, 3 quart or larger pan with a lid.
2. Cover pan and shake gently over medium high heat, allowing steam to escape from popping kernels.
3. Remove pan from heat immediately when popping stops or it will quickly burn.
4. Carefully pour popped kernels into large bowl.
5. Season to taste.

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1. Make sure you already know what side of your car that the tank is on and then pull into the gas station and drive up to a pump that you can position near the gas tank. Note: usually they are near the rear of your vehicle, on either the right or left hand side. (If your car needs diesel fuel, make sure you pull up to the appropriate pump.
2. Turn off your car. And, if you smoke ... don't smoke while pumping gas!
   
3. Open the gas tank. On newer cars, this is done with a button from the inside of the car, but on older cars the tank can be opened by hand, or even with a key. (See your manual if you can't figure it out.)
   
   
4. Unscrew the cap and put it somewhere you can easily find it -- all too often this is a mistake many people make and they leave the gas cap at the station.
   
   
5. Self-serve is different in respect to paying for the gas. At this stage you will need to pay for your gas, rather than after. Depending on how old or new the station is you will be able to prepay for the gas either by giving money to the attendant, or by simply sliding your credit or ATM debit card through a slot at the gas pump. If you use your credit card or ATM at the pump, there will be directions on the pump that will take you through the payment step by step.
   
   
6. Turn to the pump and select what type of gas you want to use (regular, premium, super, or diesel). Lift the handle of the gas nozzle off it's stand and place the nose of the nozzle into the opening for the gas tank. Make sure you fit the nose down as far as it can go. Lifting the handle may start the pump or you may have to press the 'start' button, which will be clearly marked. (In either case, the pump indicator should clear and register to zero.
   
   
7. Pull up on the trigger located in the handle of the gas hose. This will release the gas into the tank of your car. Keep squeezing the lever and your gas will pump until you reach the prepaid amount -- or it will stop automatically when the tank is full, which ever comes first. When it does stop, the lever on the handle will click and turn itself off. Note: If you want to fill the tank, without standing there and squeezing the pump, just squeeze the nozzle's lever and set the clip at the bottom of the lever. The pump will shut of automatically and this will give you time to wash your windows! At this point, don't get back in your car. (See little known dangers at the gas pump.)
   
   
8. When you are finished pumping, remove the nozzle and put it back in the holder, pulling the holder back down to do so.
   
   
9. Put the cap back on the gas tank tightly and close the cover.
   
   
10. If you paid at the pump, it should ask you if you need a receipt. If you want it, press yes on the keypad, take your receipt and go!
    

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