DIY Life

All-Natural, Homemade Paint

Joe Provey — 2011-09-11T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Essential Skills, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Looking for a gentle alternative to chemical-based interior paint? Stir up this simple, four-ingredient recipe.

Milk paint transformed this old cassette cabinet into a charming powder room organizer for storing towels, tissues, and toiletries. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Cavemen did it. The early Egyptians did it. American Colonists did it. And even today, many people are rediscovering the art of making interior paint for the home.

In an age of store-bought paints with high performance finishes, you may ask yourself, why make paint? For me, it's the natural, handcrafted look -- along with the satisfaction of being self-reliant. For others, it may be because homemade paint is the greenest and least toxic alternative possible to traditional paint. Homemade paints aren't based upon petrochemicals and they're far less toxic than commercial paints -- even the many zero-VOC paints now emerging on the market.

The ingredients for homemade paints vary. This recipe consists of lime, water, pigment, and milk. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

The easiest to make and least expensive homemade paints consist of milk, lime, and pigment. For additional body a filler, such as chalk powder or plaster can be added. My preferred recipe is simplicity itself:

-- Hydrated lime (available at most home and garden supply stores)
-- Water
-- Pigment (powder or liquid)
-- Whole milk (at room temperature)

Mix lime with water using a putty knife or plastic spatula. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

1. Fill a container with one to two cups of hydrated lime. Gradually add water and stir until you have a thick paste.

2. In a separate container, do the same with the pigment powder. For a small batch like this, 2 to 4 tablespoons of pigment is typically sufficient.

3. Gradually add milk to the lime paste until you achieve the consistency of sour cream. Then add the pigment paste and mix thoroughly.

Safety tip: Despite the relative low toxicity of the ingredients, wear vinyl gloves and a dust mask when working with lime and pigment.

Gradually stir milk into the lime paste until you achieve a consistency of loose sour cream. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

ADDING PIGMENTS TO HOMEMADE PAINT
You can buy pigmentsat many hardware and artist supply stores. Avoid using pigments made from toxic compounds, otherwise you'll defeat the purpose of making your own paint. Some common toxins used in pigments include cadmium, lead, mercury, and cobalt. Here's a good online source for non-toxic pigments. You will have to experiment with pigments to achieve the color you want. Be sure to buy plenty of white pigment, as you'll be using a lot of it. It comes in two forms: titanium dioxide and zinc. The former is a bit more opaque.

You can make many of your own colorants using natural ingredients but the process is a lot more time-consuming than making paint alone. Also, the colors produced through home-brewed dyes are more subtle than store-bought pigments. If you do want to make homemade pigment, try these methods:

-- Add water to steel wool for a red rust coloring.
-- Try simmering everything from berries and vegetables to bark and leaves to create the dyes. Blackberries, for example, make a strong dye.
-- Brew coffee or many tea to create neutral tones.
-- Boil peach or crab apple leaves for greens.
-- Use store-bought juice concentrates, such as blueberry and cranberry, to create pleasing tints.

Use a natural bristle brush to apply the milk paint, and allow it to dry for a few hours before recoating. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

ADDITIONAL TIPS ABOUT HOMEMADE PAINT
-- Milk paint is not as scrubbable as its commercial cousins. In areas subject to spills, apply a protective coat of shellac or oil finish. If you choose the latter, stay green with a plant oil-based finish.

-- The shelf life for milk paint is short. Store unused paint in the refrigerator. It can be used until the milk sours. Brushes clean easily with soap and water.

SEE ALSO:
Before & After: Aging Furniture with Milk Paint (Design*Sponge)
Paint Color Trends to Move On From (ShelterPop)
Create a Crackled Paint Finish with Plain School Glue

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Could You Get Paid to DIY?

Amy Preiser — 2011-08-25T14:07:00+00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

In England, two landlords are testing a system that pays tenants to do their own routine repairs. Will it catch on?

If you're going it anyways, shouldn't you get the cash? Photo: Getty

Ever find yourself unclogging your drain or repairing a chipped tile and grumbling "I should really be paid for this"?

England's National Housing Federation feels your pain. The BBC reports that housing associations and councils spend about $1,633 on repairs per property, per year. So doesn't it make sense to put the money in the hands of the renters, rather than the contractors?

No, that doesn't mean renters will be in charge of everything that goes wrong -- just the little things. Landlords will still be responsible for uneven floorboards, where-did-those-come-from ceiling leaks and complicated plumbing issues.

And for the truly anti-DIY crowd, fear not: Tenants are allowed to use the cash for hiring help on their own...or perhaps buying dinner for a particularly handy friend. And while some skeptics might argue that simply paying tenants to take on a landlord's duties makes things more difficult for the renter, consider this: With the easier stuff pushed off their plates, wouldn't landlords be better equipped to handle major repairs? After all, if my landlord didn't have to deal with every one of my 29 building-mates calling to get a fix for their chipped sink, maybe he'd have time to tackle that weird water sound happening in all of our bathrooms. Or get the washing machine to stop eating my quarters.

And he's not the only person to benefit -- if I knew I could get paid for painting over the spackle he placed after a minor leak, I'd get around to it much sooner. Housing Minister Grant Shapps says it best: "When residents take pride in their homes it saves their landlords cash, so I think it's right that tenants should benefit too."

What do you think: Would you welcome cash-for-DIYing? Or do you want all home repair issues off your to-do list?

What about you?

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Unclog a Drain: Baking Soda Vs. Drano

DIY Life Staff — 2011-08-24T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

If your drain is backed up, here's how to get the water flowing.

Sure, now the home-care market is permeated with cleaning solutions. But there was a time when we relied on good ol' fashioned elbow grease and know-how when it came to cleaning our homes. We may have newer, more advanced options, but there's something to be said about the methods that have stood the test of time. So we've decided to put old-school cleaning techniques to the ultimate test -- pitting them against high-tech, modern-day cleaning solutions. Our third installment is the ultimate gross-factor: Declogging drains.

Get that water running in no time. Photo: Flickr, kamienok

The Problem: Clogged drains
At some point, it happens to everyone, more often to those of us with long, full locks. Bathtub drains get clogged with hair and soap scum; kitchen drains get clogged with food debris. So what can you do to get things flowing again?

Old Solution: Baking Soda Cocktail
I recently chatted with a friend's grandmother about this pesky drain problem (a common one in my household), and she handed over a "time-tested" recipe for your own at-home drain cleaner. "Dran-NO," she told me. "This is better for your lungs and easy to do."

Here's how to make her concoction: Mix together 1 cup of baking soda, 1 cup of salt and 1/4 cup of cream of tartar in a glass or plastic sealable container. Stir until mixed. Measure about a quarter cup of the mixed powder and pour into your clogged drain. Pour two cups of boiling water into the drain, and let stand for about an hour, then run fresh water from the tap.

This, of course, caused another problem for me: I don't keep cream of tartar on hand. But I did purchase some for the occasion, and the solution did its magic.

However, being a woman who likes to have options, I wanted to try another time-tested solution. Lucky for me, a friend was experiencing the same problem and volunteered to be my test case.

If you, too, don't have any cream of tartar in your cupboards, you can also try dumping 1/2 cup of baking soda down your drain, followed by a half cup of white vinegar. Cover the drain (if you don't have a drain cover, you can use a small bowl or plate), and let the mixture stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Finally, pour a pot of boiling water down the drain. Apparently the baking soda and vinegar dissolve fatty acids, allowing the clog to wash down the drain.

This second option worked as well, though did not have the same lasting effects as option one did (my friend and I compared drainage ability a week later). Perhaps she has thicker hair or more stubborn soap than I? Either way, it's good to know there's a natural solution that works.

New Solution: Store-bought drain cleaners. Drano and Liquid Plumr are the two most recognized labels when it comes to store-bought drain cleaners. I've used both, and in all honesty, couldn't tell you which one works more effectively (thus, purchase the best priced).

These solutions are very cut-and-dry; pour half of the bottle over slight clogs and a full bottle over stubborn ones, let sit for 15 to 30 minutes, then run hot water to clear the drain. If you prefer store-bought cleaners, the thicker versions are best for super tough clogs. Whether thick or thin, the downfall is that they have a strong, headache-inducing smell. And unless your bathroom is well ventilated, that odor can't be good for your health.

The Verdict: We vote for home-made drain cleaners. Although the store-bought cleaners work great and save you the hassle of mixing your own solutions, the fumes are harsh for your health, and the health of those around you. We'd vote for the natural option -- keep your drains and air a happy place.

Check out more in our Old vs New series:
Cleaning red wine stains
Testing scruff mark removers

By Allison Lind

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Patio Flooring Ideas: What's Right For You?

DIY Life Staff — 2011-08-12T16:07:00+00:00

Filed under: Patios, Porches & Decks, Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Before you renovate your patio, make sure you know all the flooring options. From stone to brick, these five materials are sturdy and great looking -- but only you know which one is the perfect fit for your yard.

Can you tell that these decks are both made of composite decking? Photos: This Old House

Do you feel like you just don't know where to start when it comes to your patio? If you're suffering from a bland concrete slab or a blanket of grass, there are a number of outdoor decking and patio options that are easy to install, beautiful to look at and long-lasting. Don't let another summer go by hanging out in the driveway -- you can create the perfect space for entertaining, you just need the right footing.

1. Wood or composite decking. Decks are probably the most popular outdoor addition that a homeowner can create that also is one of the biggest bangs for your buck. Choosing between wood and composite decking can be difficult, as there are pros and cons to each. Composite decking is a newer innovation, made of a combination of plastics and recycled cellulose-based fillers such as wood fibers from recovered saw dust and bamboo. Wood decks are made of, well, wood. You can refinish a wood deck, but you cannot do so with a composite deck. You will need to re-seal a wood deck each year. Both materials are very durable, but wood may become victim to mold, rotting or termites whereas composite decking may stain or warp in intense heat.

A cedar or redwood deck costs roughly $18 to $22 per square foot, but a more inexpensive choice would be southern yellow pine at $10 to $15 per square foot. In comparison, composite decking is about $20 per square foot. These prices include installation.

2. Concrete pavers. Concrete was the most popular outdoor patio material for many years. However, in this day and age, concrete options have expanded far beyond the single slab. Concrete now comes in various sizes and shapes, and you can even stamp your concrete with different patterns.

Concrete is very affordable too, around one-fifth less than natural stone pavers, running anywhere from $1 to $3 per square foot compared with $7 to $10 for natural stone. However, concrete is slightly less durable than natural stone. Keep in mind: it can crack, so purchasing and saving a few backups pieces is a smart move!

Deck tiles work on top of just about any surface. Photo: Handy Deck Systems

3. Wood deck tiles. If you can't have a raised deck, or you are going for a slightly more modern look deck tiles might be the best solution for you. They are called the "instant outdoor floor solution" not only because they're fast, but they're very easy to install. Most companies offer wood deck tiles that just snap and click together. You can now even get them in FSC-certified lumber. While these deck tiles are usually pre-finished it is important to oil them every 6 to 12 months to keep them looking new.

The costs vary depending on the manufacturer, but typically plain deck tiles run anywhere from $7 to $12. You can also get them in wood composite.

4. Stones and pebbles. While this might seem fairly old-school to you, stones and pebbles are making a comeback. Not only are they easy to install (as long as you can sweat it out shoveling and wheeling them into your yard), they're easy to maintain, are kid- and pet-friendly and work well in just about all weather conditions. In modern gardens and yards, pebbles are a must-have. Plus, there is something so tranquil and zen-like about using stones in your landscaping.

A brick patio is a timeless option for an outdoor space. Photo: Corbis

Stones and pebbles are calculated by the pound or ton and vary in price depending on the type of stone and the size. You can usually grab a bag of river pebbles from your local hardware store for $5 to $7, but if you're doing a large project like a patio area, consult your local nursery or landscape company. Don't forget to measure first!

5. Brick. Nothing seems more beautiful and timeless than well-laid brick. However, this little red buddy can be quite a challenge. For one, brick patios can be plagued by salt stains, moss and weeds, and on top of that, they're expensive to lay. The can get very hot in the summer, and can be difficult to sweep or shovel. However, bricks are a very eco-friendly material. You can even get historical or used bricks from builders or construction companies. Also, check sites like Craigslist -- you might luck out and get an entire patio's worth of brick for free (as long as you haul it away)! Your local home improvement store probably sells them for around $0.35 to $0.65 per brick.

Love the outdoors? Go beyond the brick or get some shade on your new patio with these fun patio umbrellas.

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20 New Ways to Use Magic Erasers

DIY Life Staff — 2011-08-12T13:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

They might look like your average cleaning tool but you should trust the name here: These cleaning blocks are kind of magic.

Magic erasers can clean almost everything! Photo: Pyrex Love

From Mr. Clean's original "magic eraser" to the generic options, eraser cleaning blocks have made cleaning easier, less messy and dare we say...even fun! Sure, these foam blocks can get the gunk off walls (sometimes even upholstery if you're careful) and other household surfaces, but there are so many more uses for these little blocks of heaven. Here are 20 unusual uses for an eraser block to make the most of your spring cleaning time:

Quick Tip: Cut up one eraser block into four little blocks. It'll make your purchase last longer, and, it'll make it easier for you to get into smaller nooks and crannies.

1. Outdoor Furniture and Toys

Take grungy white resin or white painted furniture by lightly scrubbing with an eraser cleaning block. The eraser gets into crevices and cracks while leaving paint finishes intact. The same principle applies to outdoor plastic toys.

2. Pool Liners

Pool owners, this will make your life easier: A gentle scrubbing on your liner will get rid of the water mark better than any other product.

3. Vinyl

Take an eraser to scuffs on just about anything made from vinyl: siding, boat seats, shoes, etc.

4. Car Interiors

Clean the car seats with an eraser block: Go lightly on leather, but it's okay on fabric and vinyl, lightly scrub the car steering wheel. Eraser blocks get rid of grease streaks left inside after the car's been to the shop, too.

5. Hubcaps

Clean your car's hubcaps with an eraser for a water-free car wash.

6. Refrigerator

Get rid of last year's drippings that are pooled in the back of the fridge. It'll take a whole eraser block, but it gets the job done. The seals that have gotten a bit black and moldy will also respond well to an eraser.

7. Dishwasher Interior

What are those colors inside your dishwasher from time to time? Lime, mold, ewww. Just take an eraser to them and the stains will banish.

8. Bathtub and Sinks

Getting rid of dirt and water marks is easier (and not so gross) with an eraser block. Bathtubs can take a tough scrub, but go lightly on sinks -- even a light scrub gets rid of that caked on dirt that you often can't see until you try to get it off.

9. Rust Removal

Scrub anywhere (around pipes in kitchen and bath) that you see rust.

10. Computer

A magic eraser gets rid of oil and dirt that has built up on your keyboard and mouse; you can use it on laptops, too.

11. Phones

Use one on your phone's mouthpiece, too -- it gets rid of the same grime that builds up on your computer.

12. Bugs

Wherever there are smooshed bugs (porch pillars, car windshields, interior walls, exterior doors, exterior light fixtures) wipe them away with an eraser block.

13. Glass Stove Tops
No need to have special stove top cleaner on hand, get rid of burned-on food by lightly scrubbing until the gunk is gone.

14. Dishes and Glassware
Rub hard-to-clean build-up off of thrift store dishes and glassware, like Pyrex bowls, following advice from the blog Pyrex Love.

15. Gutters

Get rid of green slime that builds up on gutters with an eraser. It's another ewww-worthy task, but it'll be almost effortless with an eraser.

16. Mirrors (and Windows)

Many fans of eraser blocks swear it gives them a streak-free and clean mirror, if the pad is slightly damp when you give it a light scrub.

17. Floors

Erase scuff marks, old paint drips-great for most floors (but always go lightly, especially on finished wood).

18. Grout

Which leads us to grout. The eraser does well with most grout (except really old and darkened-beyond-help grout that will remain gray even with best scrubbing efforts).

19. Granite countertops

Everyone is afraid to scrub granite, but an eraser pad, used at first gently and then with a little more oomph as the stains disappear, will indeed get stubborn stains out of granite.

20. Leather

You can use and eraser lightly on leather upholstery, purses or shoes to lift up marks -- just be sure to use a gentle touch.

(Disclaimer-never use eraser cleaning blocks to clean skin, animal fur, glossy, brushed, satin or dark painted surfaces-including appliances, and lastly, never use on delicate fabrics.)

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The Easy Way To Install a Doorbell

Melissa Olund — 2011-08-08T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Essential Skills, Know-How, Eric Stromer

Our resident expert Eric Stromer shows you how to install a doorbell with minimal hassle.

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How to Hang Curtains: A Quick Refresher

DIY Life Staff — 2011-08-03T10:15:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

We all could use a quick refresher on the right way to hang curtains-especially if you picked up a new style of panels, sheers or drapes.

audringjr, flickr

Learning how to hang curtains so they're at the right height and level can seem tricky...but if you just follow these simple steps, you'll finish the job in no time.

How to Hang Curtains: 1. Measure the Window
First, measure the width of the window. You want the curtain rod to be at least five inches longer than the window. You can attach the curtain to the window frame, but generally it is more visually appealing to move the rod outside the frame to the drywall. Drywall is also easier to fill and repair than wood should you decide to move or even change the style of curtain rod.

Exceptions to this are if you are hanging long dramatic window treatments and want to alter the perception of the window size. By attaching rods several inches to a foot above the top of the window opening and hanging long curtains, you can make short windows look longer. For long skinny windows, extending the curtain rod out on each side of the window a foot or more will make the window appear wider.

Using your tape measure, measure out from the side of the window frame. Make a light pencil mark. Now measure up from the window frame. Two inches is the standard measurement for both of these, but as discussed above, you can do whatever feels right for your decor. (Note: two inches out is standard for where the bracket should be installed. The rod itself extends beyond the bracket.)

How to Hang Curtains: 2. Make Sure the Curtain Rods Are Level
Once you've measured the location of the curtain rod hardware on each side of the window, get out your level and make sure that the marks are level. This is especially important in older houses that have "character"-meaning, uneven ceilings, window casings, etc.

How to Hang Curtains: 3. Install the Curtain Rod Hardware
Using your drill, drill a small hole on your mark. This is called a pilot hole. Never, ever, ever just screw something into your wall without making a pilot hole first. If you hit a wood stud behind the drywall, you're in luck! You can just screw your bracket in with the hardware that has been provided.

Most likely though, you won't hit a stud. In this case you'll have to use drywall anchors, which look like tiny plastic projectiles. Once you tap them into the wall they spring open behind the Sheetrock and anchor in your screw.

You are going to need to drill a hole that is the exact same size as the anchor. This is not as difficult as it seems. And remember you can always go larger if the hole you initially drill is too small. Drill your hole.Gently tap your anchor into place with your hammer. It shouldn't slide in too easily,nor should take brute force to try and muscle it into place.

Screw in your curtain hardware directly into the anchor. Repeat the process on the other side of the window. Then hang your curtains. Step back and admire your work!

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10 Home Projects You Should Never DIY

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-29T17:45:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Obviously, we love all things DIY! But some home projects are just not worth doing on your own: Whether for time, cost or safety reasons. I asked Jeff Kaliner, co-founder of the Power Home Remodeling Group (the fourth largest home remodeling company in the nation) for his opinion on what should be left to the pros.

photo: reallyboring, flickr

- Roof Repair. Not only can you hurt yourself if you attempt to fix your roof on your own, but you can also damage your roof and end up in need of even more costly repairs from a pro. Limit your interaction with your roof to seasonal check ups to remove debris from gutters and check for cracked or broken shingles. Since most roof systems can last for up to 20 years, this is definitely a case where you should leave it to the pros.

- Window replacement. Installing new windows is a great way to save energy and in turn, lower your monthly energy bills. However, from the specialized tools required to form exterior cladding, removal of lead-based paint, and the time it takes to master the art of working with aluminum, there are several elements of this project that make it best left to a pro. While new windows can be pricey, by having them properly installed you'll save that money (and likely more) in the long run on energy bills and tax credits.

- Exterior painting. Paint and preparation vary depending on the surface, but no matter the material, several steps of power washing, sanding, paint scraping and caulking must be completed...and that's before you even begin to prime the surface. The goal of many DIY projects is to save time, but this one is a definite time suck that requires a good deal of expensive tools and materials. Do yourself (and your neighbors) a favor and avoid making a mistake the whole block will have to suffer along with you. Hire a pro and stick with painting the interior of the home. Please also keep in mind that older homes likely have lead-based paint issues, which can be hazardous to your health if not handled with care and costly if not disposed of properly.

- HVAC. Unless you're performing a relatively simple task like installing a programmable thermostat to save energy, most HVAC projects require the help of a professional because very few homeowners know more than just the basics of air ventilation and circulation. In addition, keep in mind that your family's safety could be at risk if your home's ventilation is not working properly. The multiple steps involved, from creating a frame for ductwork to sealing and insulating the ductwork and finding the proper locations for return vents, mean these projects can take a novice much longer than a weekend to complete.

- Attic Insulation. If your attic is easily accessible, it can be tempting to attempt to insulate your attic on your own, but think twice before buying fiberglass insulation materials to install. In order to achieve the energy savings you're looking for, an attic must be sealed prior to installation of insulation. A licensed contractor will use specialized diagnostic tools to find and repair leaks, and if you are not completely thorough with this step, the insulation will not make the difference you are looking for.

- Structural changes. While most homeowners know to keep away from loadbearing walls, some forget to also avoid walls that contain water or gas pipes, electrical wires and ductwork. Hiring a professional can save you the time you'd spend with the guesswork involved in figuring out what walls can go and what must stay.

- Gutter repair. The installation of new gutters can add great value to a home, but keep in mind that it's difficult to near impossible to repair gutters without impacting your roof. Instead of risking injury by repairing downtrodden gutters on your own, look into the cost of having a professional replace them first. It will likely pay off in the amount of time you save and equity you add to your home.

- Installing decking. In most municipalities, homeowners must secure a permit when building a deck higher than 18 inches off the ground. Building codes will also affect your build and how far you'll need to dig before installation of footings. Add to the fact that most deck material companies offer installations at a discount when purchasing materials, and this is a project best left to the pros.

- Basement Waterproofing. Do your homework before attempting to solve your water problems. While minor issues can be temporarily fixed with waterproofing paint, the results are sure to fade after one or two heavy rainstorms. For a permanent solution, look to professionals who can waterproof the foundation of your home and ensure proper water management that will keep your basement dry.

- Tree Removal. Forget that you'll need to figure out what to do with the tree once you've knocked it down and consider the time you'll spend measuring and preparing for the fall. There are a lot of factors at play here that a professional tree remover will be much better equipped to handle, oftentimes at a relatively low cost.

So, what do you think? Would you ever attempt these home projects on your own?

And for DIY home projects that you SHOULD do, check out...
Paint a Door - The Shortcut Version
Curb Appeal Landscape Lighting
5 Easy Landscaping Tips for Quick Curb Appeal

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The Ultimate Estate Sale Guide

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-27T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Forget antique stores, eBay or even etsy. One of the best ways to find high-quality vintage furniture, housewares and even china is by going to an estate sale. And I'll let you in on a little-known secret: Estate sales are where those antique dealers shop in the first place. (You'll see one in the background of this video, scooping up china.)

So, have I convinced you to try estate sale shopping? Here's where you can find one in your area:

- Your local newspaper. Estate sale companies place multiple ads in the classified and/or real estate sections.
- Craigslist. Estate sales are frequently listed in the "Garage Sale" section.
- Estate sale-specific websites. A few ones to keep in mind: EstateSales.net, EstateSales.org, WeekendTreasure.com. All of these sites consistently update their nationwide listings so you're sure to find a sale near you.
- Estate sale companies. I found the above estate sale by plugging in "Estate sale companies New York or New Jersey" into Google. It brought me to Dusty Old Bags, a company that has some of the best estate sales in the tri-state area. So, try searching your state-you might find a similarly great resource.

Want more tips on shopping secondhand? Check out...

Goodwill Hunting: School House Decor
Secondhand Stories: The Weirdest Things Brought Into My Consignment Shop
How to Bargain at Flea Markets
Don't Move It: Yard Sale Tips and More

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9 Free Ways To Cool A Room Better

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-22T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

With record-breaking temperatures around the country, we all want to know how to cool a room- fast. These nine tips won't set you back a dime, but will make your air conditioner, central air system or fan do its job better.

Medusa Properties, flickr

Yes, it's hot outside. And inside, for that matter. But if your preferred cooling system-whether it's an a/c or a fan-doesn't seem to cool a room as good as it should, try these nine fixes.

Window or Portable Air Conditioner

- Clean The Air Filters. Trapped dirt will most definitely reduce air flow through the unit, leaving you with disappointingly weak breezes from the vents. So, give the air filter a good scrubbing with soap and water at least once a month (more if you live in a city, or if there's been lots of humid weather). While you're there, clean the evaporator coil. Dirt there will just insulate the coil, reducing its ability to absorb heat.
- Move It. Your air conditioner will work overtime if it's near a heat source, which can be anything from somebody else's a/c to a cable box. Or, if it's surrounded by junk. These all reduce airflow, which means less cooling power.

Central Air/Split System

- Clean The Condensing Unit. This can get filled with leaves, grass clippings and dirt. Clean this loveliness away with a soft brush. Also, remember: The condenser should have 24 inches of breathing room in order to run properly and keep from overheating.

- Add Duct Tape. Go to the attic to check for gaps in ceiling ducts. A good way to test this? Light incense, then see if the smoke gets pulled towards or away from the ducts. If it does, this indicates a leak. Patch it up with duct tape.

Ceiling Fan

- Clean The Blades. Yes, we're cleaning again. Caked-on dirt can slow the blades down (and it doesn't look very nice, either). Turn off the fan, then clean each blade.

- Make It Run Counterclockwise. Did you know that your ceiling fan has a "summer" setting? Me neither. But it's simply flipping a switch on the side of the motor housing. Trust me, you'll notice a difference.

- Balance It. If your ceiling fan gets wobbly when you run it, the alignment is out of whack. Turn off the fan, then make sure the blade holders are firmly attached to the flywheel. Tighten any loose screws.

Plug-In (Box or Stand-Up) Fan

- One more time: Clean It. This is easier on a box fan, where all you have to do is unscrew the front and back grates (and dip them in a bath, or hose them down). If you have a stand-up model, check out this tutorial for how to clean an oscillating fan.

- Open The Top Window. This is if you have casement windows, of course. But opening the top half of the window will create cross-circulation, giving a place for hot air (which rises) an escape hatch.

Want more cool cures? Check out:

Energy Savings: Central Air Conditioning
How to Clean and Maintain Air Conditioning Systems
The Daily Fix: How to Balance a Ceiling Fan

And to see how to change out the air filter in your central air, watch this...

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How to Get Rid of Fruit Flies: Testing 8 Odd Methods

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-18T16:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Essential Skills, Know-How

If you've ever accidentally let a bowl of fresh-picked fruit get a little too ripe, then you have one question on your mind: How do you get rid of fruit flies? ("Where are they coming from?" is a close second.) I tested 8 of the most common homemade methods for getting rid of the teeny pests. Here's what worked, and what didn't.

Michael Schmidt, flickr

Here's an equation that you never wanted to learn: Hot Temperatures + A Forgotten Apricot = Fruit Fly Bonanza. The apricot in question had worked its way underneath a loose flap at the bottom of the paper bag. Thinking it was empty, I stowed the paper bag (I like to keep them handy whenever I need paper for transferring clothing patterns) and went away for the weekend.

When I came back, my two cats were both in the kitchen, kind of looking twitchy. I had assumed that they finally went crazy from a weekend without treats, until I saw the cloud of fruit flies around their food dish.

Yep, we had fruit flies.

After cleaning the kitchen, dumping out the cat food and killing many generations of fruit flies with a few disgusting smacks, I decided to get even. Like the other two pest tests, I didn't want to use harsh bug sprays because of the cats. And since I'm gone for about 12 hours a day, the solution had to be one that would work without close supervision.

Enter: The trap method

The internet agrees that the best way to get rid of fruit flies is to start with a trap. Basically, you put some bait inside a tall glass, top it with a funnel and wait for the flies to meet their demise. Why a funnel? Because it creates a small entrance for the fruit flies, while still trapping them inside the glass. (Most fruit flies aren't smart enough to figure out that the entrance can also function as an exit.) Also, it will prevent curious pets from drinking the bait. For my tests, I used a pint glass and an old plastic funnel.

But what's the best bait to use? I found out the top choices (as with the other pest tests, I came upon these solutions with internet research and friend recommendations) and tried them out. Here's how they fared:

- Toothpaste. A friend of mine spent a week on vacation at a lakeside cabin. Unfortunately, the cabin had a fruit fly problem, particularly in the bathroom. She moved cabins within a day, but not before she noticed the flies gathering around the freshly-used toothbrushes. The assumption was that toothpaste attracted the fruit flies. So, I put about a tablespoon in the bottom of the glass. A day later, there were still zero fruit flies in the trap. Bottom line: Does not work.

- Apple Cider Vinegar. This type of vinegar always comes up whenever a discussion of fruit flies occurs. When I worked in a bakery, we used it in our traps (fruit flies are attracted to the fermentation produced when bread rises) but I didn't remember it being successful. So, a friend with a biology background mentioned heating the apple cider vinegar in the microwave for about 10 seconds. This will release more of the vinegar's fragrance, which fruit flies can't resist. I poured a 1/2 cup of the heated apple cider vinegar into the trap. A day later, there were dozens of fruit flies in the vinegar. Bottom line: It works, especially if you heat it beforehand.

- Wine. This was discovered accidentally. I had abandoned my wine glass at a party, when I came back, there were two fruit flies floating in it. Gross. But when used as a bait, it's exceptionally effective. Pour a 1/2 cup of wine (fresh or old) into the glass, then watch the flies flock to the stuff. Bottom line: It works wonderfully.

- Banana Liqueur. I was given a bottle of this terrible concoction as a gift. I used it exactly once. I figured that if wine worked, maybe a liqueur would, too. And it's sickly-sweet with a banana scent. Sounds like something a fruit fly would like, right? Wrong. Turns out fruit flies are just as grossed out as we are by banana liqueur. They avoided the trap entirely. Bottom line: Does not work. Throw the bottle out.

- Tequila. Another accidental discovery. A guest knocked over a bottle of tequila (why yes, it was a fabulous party) and in the few seconds before the spill was cleaned up, we noticed the fruit flies swarming to the boozy puddle. Inside the trap? It was fruit fly central. Bottom line: Works surprisingly well.

- Rotten fruit. I know, it's disgusting to even read that. But many have praised the power of well, giving the fruit flies what they want. I placed a few slices of overripe peaches into the trap and waited. The next day, there were a considerable amount of fruit flies in the trap, but not as many as in the apple cider vinegar, wine and tequila traps. I was also concerned that this wasn't so much a trap as a breeding ground. Bottom line: It works, but not effectively.

More Immediate Ways To Get Rid Of Fruit Flies

If you want to get rid of fruit flies now, you can do better than standing around smacking the air. Here are a few...creative...approaches to the job.

- Hair dryer. This is a bit gruesome. What you do is turn on your hair dryer so the nozzle faces away from the fruit flies. (So the flat end faces them.) The fruit flies get sucked into the dryer and then will roast to death from the heating mechanism. Does it work? Sort of. The effort to chase the fruit flies with a dryer outweighs the number of flies you actually get. Also, most hair dryers have several guards over the flat end anyway, reducing your overall fruit-fly-catching ability anyway. Also, you'll have dead fruit flies in your hair dryer. Bottom line: Bad idea and not worth the trouble.

- Incense. You either like the scent of incense, or you don't. I'm in the latter camp, with the rare exception of cedar-scented incense during the wintry months. But in the summer? No thanks. But, it's a recommended tip, so I'll try it anyway. The idea is to essentially smoke the flies out of the room. Their tiny fruit fly lungs can't handle the smoke, so they die. While I absolutely hated the scent, this actually worked pretty well. The counter looked like the Fruit Fly Civil War occurred, though, involving much disinfecting afterwards. Bottom line: Effective, but a nuisance if you dislike the smell of incense.

Want more tips for getting rid of fruit flies? Check out...
Testing: 10 Odd Ways To Get Rid of Flies
Testing: 8 Odd Ways to Get Rid of Ants
Mosquito Prevention: The 10 Most Bizarre Tips

And to see an alternative approach to getting rid of fruit flies, check out...

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Curbspotting: Vintage Chair

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-11T13:45:00+00:00

Filed under: Dining Rooms, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

There's only one thought we had when we saw this vintage chair and it was: "Yikes!" See how it went from beyond hope to beautifully restored...and brush up on your reupholstery skills in the process.

practicalowl, flickr

From the profusion of unbound wool stuffing and a finish that can only be described as lackluster, it didn't surprise us to learn that the glory days of this vintage chair occurred over a century ago. (In fact, the chair dates from the Victorian era.) But as usual in these Curbspotting makeovers, good bones trump even the most serious-looking flaws. The chair's high-quality wood frame, beautiful carved details and graceful silhouette made it a worthy project.

The main issue was the seat...or lack thereof. While this makeover was done by a professional restorer, you can tackle this reupholstery project yourself using the brilliant upholstery overview at ModHomeEc. An overview: You'll completely remove the seat, add new cushioning (usually with foam) and then re-cover the new seat with fabric. A word to the wise: Before I even think about picking up a chair for a possible makeover, I always check its underside to see if it's held to the frame with screws, which makes it easy to remove the seat.

Next up is the chair frame. Here, the lack of shine throughout the piece tells us that the original finish is long gone. (Wax, oil and shellac/lacquer/varnish are the traditional sealers used for wood pieces.) You can either paint the frame a new color or attempt to restore the wood yourself. I tend to select more informal pieces that lend themselves nicely to a new paint job, but if you'd like an incredibly good primer on how to restore wood, I highly recommend this article from TLC's How Stuff Works.

Want to see more incredible before-and-after makeovers from our Curbspotting series? Check out...
Curbspotting: Midcentury Chair
Curbspotting: Dresser Makeover
Curbspotting: Vintage Lamps

And to see a wood refinishing project in action, watch this...

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Yet Another Use for Vinegar: Vase Cleaner

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-22T14:45:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

I was reading Lifehacker when I came upon this really great tip for yet another use for vinegar from commenter Kevster. My approach to cleaning the surplus of vases in my home will never be the same (or this exciting) again.

Vincent Ma, flickr

As a DIY editor, I thought I heard every use for vinegar that you could possibly think of. (Smell remover! Fabric softener!) But people always surprise me with their ways to use the stuff. A few months ago, I was eating at a regrettable restaurant in Atlantic City, when the bubble-haired waitress let me in on a tip: If you want to take away the heat from a spicy dish, just add vinegar. This was about the only thing I gained from that trip (the rest I lost at the casino later that night).

Anyway, I came upon this other genius use for vinegar today: Vase cleaner. Just add baking soda to the vase, then pour in the vinegar. Yes, this is also the recipe for a science fair volcano. The baking soda foam will rise, effectively cleaning even the oddest-shaped vases. For more great tips for using vinegar, check out Lifehacker.

Want to turn your bottle of vinegar into the most overachieving item in your house? Check out...
Vinegar's slew of wonderful uses
Using Vinegar for Laundry
Best Uses For Vinegar

And to see how to clean a faucet using vinegar, watch this...

How to Clean a Faucet Aerator Using Vinegar

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The Trick to Wall Garden Success

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-10T18:15:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Exteriors & Facades, Essential Skills, Know-How

Creating a wall garden is more than just choosing planters and blooms. There's the whole matter of getting the planters on the wall. Here's the secret...

fmpgoh, flickr

Creating a wall garden is one of those ideas that seem simple on paper: Just drill into the wall using a masonry bit, pop in an anchor and a screw, then hang the planter. But once you have the drill in hand, it's a quick trip from confidence to anxiety. Questions come up. Let's go through them together.

Is my regular drill OK to use?
If you only have a handful of holes to make, it's a corded model that's at least 14.4V and you have a carbide-tipped bit, then yes. But if you want to mount more than three planters, only have a cordless drill or have to make big holes, then it pays off to rent a hammer drill. It will sound terrible when used, but it gets the job done.

What's this about anchors?
Anchors can be found in the "overwhelming" aisle of your local hardware store. Though they all pretty much due the same thing (reinforce a hole to make a screw fit extra securely), there are a staggering number of different anchor types. Generally, you can select one by wall material. Toggle bolts are good for cement blocks, lag shields for cement or stucco, concrete screws for concrete (surprise) or brick, and hammer-driven anchors (most types of walls, but better for light loads). For small pocket-type planters like the ones above, I'd go for a hammer-driven anchor.

Do I have to worry about studs?
As with most projects that involve hanging things on walls, yes. So, get out the stud finder. However, I should point out that I once got very cavalier and drilled right into a brick wall without bothering this step. The mailbox is still securely hanging in place.

On brick walls, should I drill between the bricks (into the mortar) or into the brick?
This usually ends up in a lively debate between DIY types. I'm in the "into the brick" camp. Though it takes longer and requires some extra effort, a hole drilled into brick tends to hold up better over time. Now, I've seen others drill right into the mortar without any problems. But if your mortar happens to be old and crumbly, moisture can get into the hole and weaken everything. And that's how you wake up one day to find your planter on the ground.

Want to know a little more about getting the right tools for this job? Check out...
Best Wall Anchors and How to Install Them
How To Get The Most From Your Stud Finder
Drilling into Concrete and Masonry

And for a clever way to store all those screws and anchors, watch this...

How to Organize and Store Nails and Screws

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The Secret to Painting Metal Patio Furniture Red

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-08T13:35:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Red gives any old patio furniture an effortless retro-chic look. The problem? Getting a true tomato hue. We've pinpointed the problem and found the secret to painting metal patio furniture red.

Top row left to right: Anthropologie; RefinedStyle; Ficurinia, etsy; industry-west; Bottom row left to right: Anthropologie; Jules Seltzer Store; Remodelista

It all started with a red garden love seat (in fact, it's the one on the bottom left). I saw it at anthropologie last year and thought it would make a great addition to the backyard of my then-apartment, but ultimately passed it up because of the nearly $1000 price tag. (It eventually went on sale...for $500.)

Though I made the smart budget decision not to buy it, I still find myself thinking of the garden bench, mostly because red patio furniture is everywhere this season. Taking the DIY approach, I started to paint a wrought iron daybed in the hopes of re-creating the look, but stopped the project when the fire engine red paint started drying to a rusty orange hue. Not ideal.

The problem was all in the primer: I used a typical brown primer, which had pigments that deepened the red hue no matter how many coats I painted on. (You should always use a spray formula when painting metal furniture, by the way. It'll give you the most even coverage, especially for detailed metal work.) The other options? Orange or gray, which can both often give a dingy cast to red.

In my research for a primer ideal for painting metal, I came upon a red-tinted lacquer spray primer used for automotive paint jobs. It creates an even base that will let you layer on the wildest red you could ever want. You can find it on the Automotive Touch-up website. Use it with confidence.

Want more tips on refreshing your old patio furniture? Check out...
Cheap Trick: Fix Up Old Patio Furniture
Prepare Your Outdoor Furniture For Spring
How to clean outdoor furniture

And to see how a pro gets his patio furniture ready for summer, watch this...

How to Clean Patio Furniture

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DIY Diagnosis: Painting a Room

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-07T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: DIY Glossary, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

A surprisingly diverse number of problems can happen between loading up a paint brush or roller and painting a room. And when a problem comes up, it's time for DIY Diagnosis.

Evan Wilder, Flickr

The arrival of a new season always triggers a need to change up the wall colors in my home. And when I want a change, I want one now. But when it comes to painting a room, it's easy to get swept up in getting the job done instead of getting the job done right. Here's a handy list of common problems that can come up, why they did and how you can stop 'em.

- A dark hue looks faded. This happens when you paint over a light color with darker one. To prevent this from happening, apply a gray-tinted primer coat in between. This will stop the lighter hue from bleeding through the bolder one, and will create a neutral base that'll let bold hues look their best.
- A random shiny spot appears a week after painting. When a flat paint is applied to a high-traffic area, a glossy spot can appear where hands (or a sponge) frequently comes in contact with the painted surface, rubbing off the matte finish. So, when it comes to high-traffic areas where you know you'll have to do some cleaning, go for a semi-gloss.
- Bubbles, everywhere. Or worse, foaming. Those tell-tale air bubbles that come up on the wall often start in the paint bucket. How do they get there? By mixing the paint a little too vigorously or shaking the bucket. Gently stirring the paint instead ensures that the pigments are evenly distributed without leading to bubbling.
- Cracks, almost like the ones you see when mud dries. A deep crack can happen when paint is applied with a heavy hand. It's often not your fault, really: A roller with a long nap used on a flat surface can end up applying thick layers of paint. If your wall is uniformly flat, stick to a roller with a 1/4"-3/8" nap.
- Brush marks all over the place. If brush marks appear as soon as you sweep over an area, chances are good that you're painting in a particularly warm spot (due to high temperature or direct sunlight). So, take a break and pick up your brush later.

Ready to get started? Boost your confidence with these refreshers...
Calculate How Much Paint You Need for a Room
No-Fail Tips for Selecting Paint
Top Tips for Interior Painting Projects
Painting Tips for Home Staging
Interior Paint Colors That Help Sell Your Home

And if you're thinking about cutting costs by choosing a cheaper formula, think again. Here's an argument for choosing quality over cost.

Selecting Paint to Buy

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Curbspotting: Vintage Chair

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-03T13:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Living Rooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How

A vintage chair with "good bones" (but not much else going for it) becomes a knockout with a fresh coat of paint and a little reupholstering know-how.

Justin and Elise, flickr

This vintage chair by Drexel was facing a future in the dump when it was rescued just before the garbage truck came along. And though it had potential, you can see why someone might chuck it in the first place. The torn upholstery, scratched-up wood and general filthiness definitely overshadows its elegant frame.

Then Justin and Elise Snow came along. They cleaned it up, gave the wood a fresh coat of lime green paint and replaced the upholstery. Though it looks impressive and sounds intimidating, reupholstering a side chair is one of the easiest projects you can do. Really. All you really have to do is re-wrap the cushion with foam and then smooth over with the fabric of your choice, stapling both in place as you work. It's projects like this, or the hope of undertaking a project like this, that made me buy a staple gun in the first place.

Want a few more ideas for refreshing a vintage chair? Check out...
Minute Makeover: A DIY Accent Chair
Flea market chair gets a makeover
Thrifted task chair gets a new look

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Repel Pests with Companion Planting

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-02T10:06:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Take some of the hassle of summer gardening companion planting. This bed planning technique encourages combining plants that have a natural benefit, like pest or animal prevention. Here's how one reader tried out a common companion planting combo in her yard.

Wanda Lau

Wanda Lau spends her days working for KSS Architects (you might remember them from the daylighting story) and her spare time tending her backyard garden. As someone who is short on time, she puts a premium on simple gardening techniques that'll save her time in the long run. Such as: Companion planting. She incorporated marigolds amongst her herb, perennial and vegetable plantings to dissuade animals from treating the beds as their personal buffet. Another benefit to incorporating marigolds is that they'll repel aphids and mosquitoes.

Interested in companion plantings? Here are a few other common choices:
- Peppermint: Repels ants, white cabbage moths and aphids.
- Garlic: Repels Japanese beetles, fleas and aphids.
- Basil: Repels flies and mosquitoes.

Companion planting is a key principle in organic gardening (who knew?). To brush up on some more pesticide-free garden techniques, check out...
How to Make a Gardening Plan for Organic Gardening Video
What every organic garden needs
Organic Gardening 101

And to see a pro's approach to companion planting, watch this...

Companion Planting Tips

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Quick Refresher: How to Clean a Grill

Brie Dyas — 2011-05-29T13:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

If you haven't opened your BBQ since last summer, make sure it's in good shape before busting out the burgers tomorrow. Here's a quick refresher on how to clean a grill (and repair any small snafus).

The Rocketeer, flickr

To clean a grill in the most fuss-free possible, fire up the...oven. The metal cooking grates from your grill can benefit from your oven's self-cleaning cycle. Just lightly brush off any surface dirt from the grates (I like to use aluminum foil wadded up into a ball) and place on top of your oven's racks. Then, turn your oven to self-clean. You'll walk away with clean grill grates (and a clean oven, too).

When you fire up the grill for the first time in months, sometimes stray dirt is the least of your problems. From yellow flames to none at all, check out how to diagnose and treat common grill problems.

Want to see how a pro cleans a gas grill? Check out...

How to Clean a Gas Grill

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Lawn Care for Lazy People

Brie Dyas — 2011-05-27T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Put down that weed wacker and back away from the lawn mower. Turns out less work equals a more beautiful yard. Don't believe me? Check out these laid-back lawn care tips.

Getty Images

Lazy Lawn Care Secret #1: Mow Less Often
Bookmark this as your pass the next time the dreaded lawn care chore comes up on your to-do list. Keeping grass a little bit on the taller side (about 3", according to organic lawn care experts) improves soil's moisture retention. Plus, the taller blades shade soil and block weeds like crabgrass from getting their share of sun.

Lazy Lawn Care Secret #2: Leave Grass Clippings on the Lawn
Yeah, the idea of raking during warm months doesn't appeal to us either. So instead of whisking away those grass clippings, leave them on the lawn. They'll break down and return nutrients to the soil, saving you the extra work of fertilizing.

Lazy Lawn Care Secret #3: Water When You Wake Up
Timing this task to the early morning hours prevents the almost-instant evaporation that happens as you water during high-sun hours. And if you procrastinated until evening, the moisture will attract bacteria and insects. Another benefit to morning watering: It trains the grass to maximize efficiency of the water used, so your lawn will become more drought-resistant over time.

Lazy Lawn Care Secret #4: And While We're At It, Water Less Often
As the temperate climbs, so does the temptation to drench the grass with water multiple times a day. Don't do it. The top layer of grass will stay soaked, but the water won't get to the roots. So, bust out the hose three times a week, not every day. (And if you get hit by rainstorms resulting in an inch of water or more, you won't have to water at all that week.)

Lazy Lawn Care Secret #5: Prevent Weeds Now
No one's idea of a good time is to hunch over their grass, pulling out weeds. One way to save yourself that hassle is to apply pre-emergent weed control ASAP. The stuff prevents weeds from germinating in the first place. (You will have to reapply it in three months though, but that's not too terrible.)

Want more lawn care tips for your best yard ever? Check out...
Savings Experiment: Thrifty lawn care that keeps you in the green
Lawncare Tips from Pro Groundskeepers
Avant Yard: Your lawn, simplified

Important Summer Lawn Care

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