DIY Life

Tour George Nakashima's "Handmade House"

Michael Gotkin — 2011-08-29T15:40:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Exteriors & Facades, Living Spaces, Outdoors

It only makes sense that artists' homes would be as inspired and beautiful as their work. Case in point: The Pennsylvania home of George Nakashima.

We're so excited to get a peek inside the new book "Artists' Handmade Houses". Below, an excerpt for your enjoyment. Text by Michael Gotkin; Photography by Don Freeman; Published by Abrams.

George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania. Nakashima designed the Arts Building, completed in 1967 and later renamed the Minguren Museum, as a tribute to his friend Ben Shahn. The southern facade, shown here, has a second-story porch and covered walkway to the cloister, a separate three-room building used to house guests. Photo: (C) Don Freeman

George Nakashima
New Hope, Pennsylvania

Though he originally trained as an architect, George Nakashima became so disappointed by the construction methods he observed being utilized in buildings that he changed course, deciding instead to start a career making furniture, which he could control entirely from design to construction and finishing. On this new path, Nakashima would become a great innovator in twentieth-century furniture design, with few rivals and countless imitators. Influenced by the craftsmanship and simple lines of traditional architecture in both the United States and Japan, Nakashima created a distinct hybrid of the two cultures in his hand-finished furniture and in the complex of buildings, including home and workshop, that he designed and built in rural Bucks County, Pennsylvania. These buildings combine his sophisticated understanding of architectural engineering with his respect for humble, vernacular structures. He produced designs that are modern yet imbued with the handmade quality and values of a bygone era, and they continue to inspire new generations.

George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania. In Kevin's House, a natural peeled post provides structural support and adds a decorative element in the doorway between the kitchen on the left and the dining and living areas on the right. Three Concoid chairs surround a Minguren table in the dining area. Photo: (C) Don Freeman

Nakashima embraced construction as a kind of improvisation, noting that "the house was built without plans, and the detailing was developed from the material on hand or that which was available." The house was constructed without nails, and Nakashima employed prefabricated industrialized materials like corrugated concrete panels for the roof, which were purchased cheaply as army surplus. It is this unlikely marriage between American vernacular influences and Japanese sensibilities, along with a willingness to embrace the engineered forms of the modern age, that lends Nakashima's work its beauty and vitality. But Nakashima believed that it was the methods underlying design, and not (what he considered to be) superficial forms, that imparted integrity. "Perhaps the greatest drawback in domestic architecture is that only the forms change," he said, "but the methods are the same, whereas the greatest need today is a creative study of the 'method'-not merely the mulling of forms on paper or the building of models, but a synthesis of the techniques of building within our present requirements."

Most of the designs that Nakashima used in his home were replicated for sale at his shop. One of his most popular designs was a diminutive three-legged chair called "Mira" after his daughter, for whom it was first fashioned. Nakashima's furniture had clear lines of reference to early American furniture, such as traditional Windsor chairs, captain's chairs, and trestle tables, but Nakashima developed those basic style tenets further and produced his own unique models, creating, for example, a Windsor-derived chaise longue, or retrofitting the bases of trestle tables to chairs. Nakashima also admired the simple domestic interiors of the American Shaker community, and joked that he was a "Japanese Shaker," seeing the confluence of aesthetics between the two cultures.
Over time, Nakashima became increasingly drawn to irregular shapes in wood, which he sought to preserve in his tabletops and chair arms; these irregularities became a hallmark of his work.

Just as he had been experimental with his furniture designs, Nakashima sought variety and contrast in the complex of buildings on his property. Only a few years after completing his home, he built a thin-shell, conoidal concrete studio with the help of famous engineers Paul Wedlinger and Mario Salvadori: The team created a soaring, arched ceiling that resembled a giant seashell. Nakashima also built a showroom and guesthouse, where visitors could view his furniture in a domestic environment. He added, over time, an expanded workshop, offices, an arts building, pool house, and a reception house to complete his compound. Maintaining Nakashima's home and business since his death, Mira Nakashima, who was trained in woodworking by her father, has developed her own line of furniture, some of it based on her father's original prototypes. Mira continues the evolution of design in which divisions between historical and modern are erased in the quest for structural integrity, innovative methods, and sculptural form.

LEFT: George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania. This interior shot of the pool house, completed in 1960, shows the building's dramatic plywood barrel-vaulted roof. Nakashima's French Walnut Minguren III table and bench are sheltered below. The stools to the right of the table are Kikkoman soy sauce kegs from a Nakashima-designed Kikkoman display in New York. (C) Don Freeman RIGHT: George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania A Conoid Room Divider, Conoid Cushion Chairs, and a Conoid Cross-legged End Table are in the foreground of this view of the Conoid Studio. (C) Don Freeman George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania A Conoid Room Divider, Conoid Cushion Chairs, and a Conoid Cross-legged End Table are in the foreground of this view of the Conoid Studio. (C) Don Freeman George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania A Conoid Room Divider, Conoid Cushion Chairs, and a Conoid Cross-legged End Table are in the foreground of this view of the Conoid Studio. (C) Don FreemanGeorge Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania A Conoid Room Divider, Conoid Cushion Chairs, and a Conoid Cross-legged End Table are in the foreground of this view of the Conoid Studio. (C) Don Freeman

Sigh -- we can't get enough of this place. If you're left craving more handmade house tours, pick up a copy of "Artists' Handmade Houses"!

Photo: (C) Don Freeman

Or check out:
House Tour: Industrial Designer Joe Doucet's NYC Apartment
House Tour: Vidal Sassoon's Modernist Bel Air Home
Celebrity Decorator Kevin Haley's Hollywood Hideout

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First Look: Country Living's September Issue

Brie Dyas — 2011-08-09T19:05:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Living Spaces

This latest issue of Country Living (out August 9) is all about before-and-afters. Subtitled "The Makeover Issue," you'll find some really amazing home transformations-big and small.

My favorite is the story of Laurietta, a plantation home in Fayette, Mississipi. To say that this home needed work is a major understatement. In fact, when Tere and Mac Thomas took a look at the newly-purchased property, they were greeted by a roosting buzzard.

I loved the story so much that Country Living is kindly giving DIYLife readers a peek into the incredible renovation. We'll take a day-by-day look at the revamped rooms, starting with...the entryway.

Here, the clean-lined frames surrounding the matted illustrations beautifully echo the painted treads of the stairway. Beautifully simple, spare and graphic, this entryway is a lovely welcome to the home.

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The Easy Way To Install a Doorbell

Melissa Olund — 2011-08-08T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Essential Skills, Know-How, Eric Stromer

Our resident expert Eric Stromer shows you how to install a doorbell with minimal hassle.

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Spot the Difference: Bungalow Makeover

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-19T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades

Remember those fun spot the difference games from childhood? We're putting a home spin on the idea!

Today, your challenge is: Find the seven changes this home owner made to the exterior of their bungalow.

BEFORE

woodsfehr, flickr

AFTER

woodsfehr, flickr

And if you're now feeling inspired to take on some exterior changes, check out...

Daily Fix: Remove Grass Burns
Curb Appeal Is Still King (Keep browsing AOL Real Estate for a tremendous amount of info on curb appeal.)
3 Steps to Curb Appeal

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Notes from a Reno: Craftsman Home Makeover

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-05T09:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Living Spaces

A 1913 Craftsman home goes from ho-hum to stunning when restored back to its original glory.

Kelly Sutherlin McLeod Architecture

This Craftsman home isn't exactly an eyesore...in fact, its bland exterior fit its role as a rental property (it had been converted to a duplex years prior). But once the property changed hands from a landlord-owned property to a single-family, the home received an update worthy of its historic pedigree. The "after" proves that there was much room for improvement to an already-nice "before":

John Ellis

Though extensive structural changes were made to the home, the most immediately notable difference is in the exterior. The white brick was chemically stripped, a second-floor deck (an original detail revealed in period photographs) was built and new shingle siding in a butternut-stained hue was added. The easiest change? Removing the aluminum awnings, which proves that small details can often make a big difference. To read more about the renovation, visit Style 1900.

Love before-and-afters? Check out...
Notes from a Reno: Bungalow Kitchen/Dining Makeover
Build a Patio: Notes from a DIY
Bathroom Makeunder - Notes from a Renovation

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The Trick to Wall Garden Success

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-10T18:15:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Exteriors & Facades, Essential Skills, Know-How

Creating a wall garden is more than just choosing planters and blooms. There's the whole matter of getting the planters on the wall. Here's the secret...

fmpgoh, flickr

Creating a wall garden is one of those ideas that seem simple on paper: Just drill into the wall using a masonry bit, pop in an anchor and a screw, then hang the planter. But once you have the drill in hand, it's a quick trip from confidence to anxiety. Questions come up. Let's go through them together.

Is my regular drill OK to use?
If you only have a handful of holes to make, it's a corded model that's at least 14.4V and you have a carbide-tipped bit, then yes. But if you want to mount more than three planters, only have a cordless drill or have to make big holes, then it pays off to rent a hammer drill. It will sound terrible when used, but it gets the job done.

What's this about anchors?
Anchors can be found in the "overwhelming" aisle of your local hardware store. Though they all pretty much due the same thing (reinforce a hole to make a screw fit extra securely), there are a staggering number of different anchor types. Generally, you can select one by wall material. Toggle bolts are good for cement blocks, lag shields for cement or stucco, concrete screws for concrete (surprise) or brick, and hammer-driven anchors (most types of walls, but better for light loads). For small pocket-type planters like the ones above, I'd go for a hammer-driven anchor.

Do I have to worry about studs?
As with most projects that involve hanging things on walls, yes. So, get out the stud finder. However, I should point out that I once got very cavalier and drilled right into a brick wall without bothering this step. The mailbox is still securely hanging in place.

On brick walls, should I drill between the bricks (into the mortar) or into the brick?
This usually ends up in a lively debate between DIY types. I'm in the "into the brick" camp. Though it takes longer and requires some extra effort, a hole drilled into brick tends to hold up better over time. Now, I've seen others drill right into the mortar without any problems. But if your mortar happens to be old and crumbly, moisture can get into the hole and weaken everything. And that's how you wake up one day to find your planter on the ground.

Want to know a little more about getting the right tools for this job? Check out...
Best Wall Anchors and How to Install Them
How To Get The Most From Your Stud Finder
Drilling into Concrete and Masonry

And for a clever way to store all those screws and anchors, watch this...

How to Organize and Store Nails and Screws

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House Number DIY

Brie Dyas — 2011-05-09T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Small Projects, Exteriors & Facades

A modern house number set inspired by Neutra's classic design can be yours for under $20. And it's ready in under two hours.

Curbly

A new house number ranks right up there with painting the front door when it comes to adding curb appeal quickly. The trouble is that the really super-stylish ones can be oddly pricey. Believing that you shouldn't have to give up quality just because of a silly thing like a small budget comes this project by uber-DIYer Chris at Curbly. He replicated a whole set of house numbers for the fraction of a price of ONE number sold at DWR. Impressed? So was I.

Curbly

The secret to creating the lookalike house number set was nixing aluminum in favor of painted Extira, an exterior panel product that has the benefits of MDF (easy to cut, well-priced) but none of the downsides (it won't absorb water). After tracing a template, he then cut out the house numbers with a jigsaw. Screws were added to the back with epoxy to create a cool raised effect. Here's the full house number tutorial.

Want more creative house number ideas? Check out...

Everything You Need to Know About Curb Appeal
Erik Spiekermann Classic House Numbers
Exterior Home Makeover: Young Modern Style

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Paint a Door - The Shortcut Version

Brie Dyas — 2011-05-04T10:40:00+00:00

Filed under: Small Projects, Exteriors & Facades, Essential Skills, Know-How

To boost your home's curb appeal and its value to potential buyers, just paint a door!

monkeysox, flickr

A quick color change is the most satisfying way to give your front entry a facelift, but it turns out there's a better way to paint a door, in just one easy step. The key is to use porch and floor enamel. This type of paint dries to a hard, colorfast, moisture- and mildew-resistant surface. (All without needing a primer coat.) It's ideal for front doors because the enamel dries to a super-strong coating that offers unparalleled protection against scratches. Once you paint a door with it, the color will stay bright and fresh-looking for season after season.

And, um...it also prevents the wood from rotting, something that most of us don't detect until things get really gross. Trust me, you do not want that happening. (But if it isn't too out of control, small bits of wood rot can be fixed with epoxy.)

The caveat: Enamel dries to a very glossy finish. So if you aren't a fan of the look, try an oil-based enamel, which has the same benefits of porch and floor enamel, but comes in eggshell finishes. Just be prepared for a slightly longer drying time.

I know, painting the front door is a chore. But you'll save time if you decide to tackle this project now, rather than later. Why? Because May is the ideal time to paint in most parts of the country. The general low humidity and friendly 50-70 temperatures present the ideal conditions for that coat of paint to dry quickly to a pristine finish. And if you're putting your home on the market, the fresh coat will signal to potential buyers that this home has been cared for, increasing its relative value.

Need a little brush-up before you paint a door? (Especially you, home sellers!) Check out...

How to Paint a Door

Selling Your Home: Quick Fixes for Big Returns

Exterior Paint Colors That Sell

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Increase Your House's Value By Renovating

Fox News Home & Garden — 2011-04-20T13:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Before you list your home, try these renovation tips so you can up the asking price!

Check out this piece from our partners at Fox News Home & Garden!

Want to increase your home's value? Try landscaping. Photo: Corbis.

When it comes to boosting your resale value, not all home renovations are created equal.

Big-ticket items like hardwood floors, flagstones around the pool, or a water feature might be great for the homeowner, says Kris Anderson, a Re/Max agent in the Phoenix area, but these improvements do little to increase the asking price.

Instead, homeowners should focus on more humble renovations and steer clear of the flashier upgrades.

"The key when remodeling is to think in terms of 'resale' always," Anderson said. "I find most homeowners overlook their front door and garage door and the windows. They get sucked in by the showroom at Lowe's or Home Depot."

So which upgrades pay off the most?

Curb Appeal

Not all renovations need to be big, expensive undertakings. Tackling a few modest DIY projects can be a great way to add value on the cheap. Basic landscaping can cost less than a weekend's worth of sweat and effort, but may dramatically boost your house's curb appeal, that all-important first impression your home makes on a potential buyer.

"Curb appeal is a very important thing to remember. When a potential buyer comes to see your home, the first impression is the front yard," said Candice Cerro of Realtor.com. "Planting flowers and painting the front door can go a long way."

Similarly, a new coat of paint indoors and outside can give a house a fresh look. But before you run out to purchase a few gallons, heed a realtor's advice: Keep it neutral. You may love lime green or pink, but that doesn't mean your buyer will.

"This is not about what you like, but what the buyer likes," said Cheryl Bare, a realtor with Century 21 in the Washington, D.C., area. Sticking to neutral tones will allow a potential buyer to envision the space as their own, while minimizing the risk that they'll be turned off by your color choices.

Sweat the Small Stuff

Many homeowners often overlook the nickel-and-dime stuff, like light fixtures, faucets and door knobs. While it won't pay off to splurge on high-end fixtures and faucets, at the very least you want to ensure that the house has a uniform look and feel. So pick a style and stick with it throughout the home.

Check out the other four ways to increase your house's value over at Fox News or read up about...
Finding the Right Flowers for Mom
Cities Where $80,000 Buys a Real Home

Or check out AOL Real Estate's guide to increasing your house's value through bathroom and minor kitchen renovations.

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The Neat Way to Paint Double-Hung Windows

Joe Provey — 2011-04-07T11:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Exteriors & Facades, Living Spaces, Outdoors

Painting windows seems like something you could wing. But if you want to avoid a mess, painting in the proper sequence is key. Here's how:

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Nothing slows a painting job down like having to touch up brush smears, splatters, and spots you accidentally skipped. But the secret to avoiding these problems is as easy as following orders.

Painting a double-hung window is a case in point. A double-hung window is the kind with two sashes, one mounted over the other. But before you can understand the proper sequence for painting a double-hung, you should be familiar with the window's different parts.

Getty Images/AOL

Skill Level
Interior painting is a skill that everyone can do. If you don't have a steady hand, there's always masking tape.

Tools and Supplies
You'll need a drop cloth, fine sand paper or sanding sponge, a sash brush, and a good trim paint. I prefer latex semi-gloss enamel. It's not too shiny but cleans easily.

Preparation:
First remove all window hardware. Then lightly sand all surfaces to ensure good paint adhesion. Clean up any dust and wash all surfaces with water and a mild detergent.

Instructions:
After you've completed your preparation:

1. Raise the lower sash as high as it will go. Then lower the upper sash. This will expose the bottom rail of the upper sash that's hidden from sight when the window is closed. (Don't be surprised to find this rail is a different color than the rest of the sash! Many DIY-ers neglect to paint it.)

2. Paint as much of the bottom of the upper sash as you can reach -- at least a few inches -- including the non-exposed bottom rail.

3. Next, return the sashes to their normal positions, leaving them open a little at top and bottom. Finish painting the upper sash, working from muntins and the inner sash edges to the sash face. Then paint the lower sash.

4. With both sashes painted, move on to the jambs. I try to paint them in a clockwise order every time because it helps me avoid skipping areas. Take care not to get paint inside the channels in which the sash slide, or you may end up with window that's difficult or impossible to open.

5. Next, paint the casing and apron (moldings that frame the window). Begin with the outer edges, and then move on to the faces. This will minimize drips.

6. Finish up by painting the stool, the ledge molding that extends from the window's sill.

Now you've got an evenly-painted window with (hopefully!) not much of a mess left. All that's left to do is sit back and enjoy the view.

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From Garage to Garden Shed

Country Living — 2011-03-18T11:03:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

No garden shed? No problem. With some re-organizing, you can turn your garage into a lovely, functional shed for all your gardening tools and accessories.

Check out this great DIY project -- one of our favorites from the brand new April issue of Country Living!

Tools lined up in satisfying rows, scissors and twine within arm's reach, a sink just for arranging flowers-the potting area ranks up there with the mudroom as the ultimate country fantasy. Don't think you have space for one? You may want to think again. Connecticut contractor Arnold M. Karp devised this dream "garden shed" by taking full advantage of the wall space in a suburban garage-with shelves, cabinets, and peg rails. A poured concrete floor pleases the eye and provides a practical surface for parking cars. "My goal was to utilize every nook and cranny," Karp says. Mission accomplished.

Dana Gallagher / Country Living

Garage-to-Garden Shed Tip #1: Karp set up an inventive organizing scheme for outdoor essentials with three rows of Shaker-style peg rails. Underneath, familiar containers put dirt in its (attractive) place.

Make the most of multiples. In addition to single pegs, Karp doubled up to create spots for hanging tools, like the broom and rake above, by their heads. With three closely spaced pegs, even boots have a home. (For similar custom peg rails, $17.50 per foot; Shaker Workshops, 800-840-9121)

Rid your floor of plastic soil bags by pouring the contents into Ikea's indispens- able trash bins. Then gussy up the cans by downloading darling labels at countryliving .com/gardenlabels and printing them on sticky paper. Download the labels (sheet 1) and (sheet 2) here.

Where to buy: Bins, $24.99 each; ikea.com. Post-it craft paper, $10.74 for six sheets; amazon.com.

Garage-to-Garden Shed Tip #2: Karp borrowed from kitchen design, outfitting one corner of the garage with lower cabinets, a granite countertop, and an apron-front sink to create a zone for cutting blooms and washing muddy hands. Up top, ornate iron brackets give painted lumber shelves a lift.

Where to buy: For similar: sink, $408; amazon.com; faucet, $369.87; danzefaucetwarehouse.com; brackets, $22 each; anthropologie.com)

Dana Gallagher / Country Living

Garage-to-Garden Shed Tip #3: A carpenter's caddy finds a new calling. Tuck plant markers, stakes, and other small tools in one of these handled (read: easy-to-tote-outside) cases.($39; wisteria.com)

There's more than one way to recycle glass. Simply pop a cork in a beverage or condiment bottle and voilà-you have a spot for seeds or bird feed.

Give your stuff a stylish label- literally, with these supersweet zinc tags. ($15 for six; areohome.com)

Don't get locked into a long- term commitment. The chalkboard end panels on this rustic wooden carton free you up to change the contents as often as you'd like. ($94.99 for set of four; Hubert, 800-543-7374)

Garage-to-Garden Shed Tip #4: Karp refined the garage walls with classic beadboard and molding, painted Restoration Hardware's Silver Sage-but skipped fixed shelving. Instead, this reclaimed-wood piece here offers mobility and space for corralling everything from pot saucers to seeds. ($1,995; vintagetub.com)

Borrow from the library. A second- hand card catalog doubles as a brilliant filing system for seed packets. Want extra room? Any recipe box will fit the bill, too. (Card catalog, $58; etsy.com/shop/longbarnmercantile)

Want to see the rest of the tips? Check out the full piece on Country Living. Or take a look at ShelterPop's coverage of the Country Living "What's Country Now?" party.

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The Edible Landscape: From Garden to Table

Nikki Pepper — 2011-03-14T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Know-How, Outdoors

The best way to pair form and function in your yard? An edible landscape. Learn how to grow basil for pesto, apples for breakfast and more.

Yes, you can bring your gardening inside and right onto your dinner table. So why not do your landscaping and food shopping at the same time? With these helpful videos, you'll get started growing herbs in 30 minutes (seriously) and learn how to make the most out of your outdoor space. Get ready for fresh grown produce and seasonings...

This video has a time-saving (and mess-saving) tip: Create an landscape using garden socks. A few easy steps, and your garden is growing. Watch how:

Another great idea -- replace your lawn with a colorful, tasty landscape. It's lower maintenance, less energy and might even encourage your neighbors to take on the same project! Our favorite way to go: Start a orchid for delicious apples.

You can also get the kids involved by using this easy, fun idea. Create mini-gardens in plastic containers that they can keep indoors. They'll love watching the herbs grow over time. Bonus: The containers can be decorated, so it's a two-for-one project! Next you'll just have to teach them recipes to use those herbs to spice up dinner!

For more ideas on what to grow, check out these 10 edible garden options. And learn how to decorate with food!

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Removing Rust from Metal and Concrete

Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien — 2011-03-09T11:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Patios, Porches & Decks, Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

You don't have to live with those reddish brown stains on your furniture and patio. Removing rust from metal and concrete is easier than you think.

Flickr, Angela Schmeidel Randall

With temperatures rising, the last of winter's snow is (finally) melting away. If you have metal furniture or a concrete patio, his thawing may reveal an unwelcome surprise: rust.

It's hard to avoid rust. It naturally forms on metal when oxygen and moisture combine with metal over a long period of time -- such as a wet winter. It turns into an oxide, which we call rust. Over time, rust can corrode metal, so it's important to scrub off this surface substance asap.

We scouted out solutions for removing rust now to prep your outdoor space for summer living.

Removing rust from metal: With a little power from your drill and 3M's Paint & Rust Stripper, you can remove rust from metals (without damaging the surface.) The 3M disc is made of synthetic webbing that cleans rusty surfaces with ease.

Removing rust from metal furniture with enamel finish: Super Iron Out made it onto Martha Stewart's list of fave spring cleaning tools. This chemical solution touts its removal strength on many surfaces, including porcelain and enamel metal.

Removing rust from concrete: You'll find a number of chemical rust removers on the market, but there's actually a homemade pantry solution you may want to try first. Simply pour vinegar on the rust, let it sit and do its work, and then scrub with a stiff brush.

Tip: Chlorine bleach is not a solution for rust stains. In fact, bleach will only make the problem worse.

For more tips, check out our guide for how to prep your outdoor furniture for spring.

If you have heavy rust damage to your metal furniture, it may require repair in addition to cleaning. In the video below, Ask the Builder expert Tim Carter guides you through removing rust and using rust-inhibitive primer to cover up the remnants and prevent future rust buildup. Sure, rust can cause a lot of damage if left unchecked, but we're always surprised at just how simple it is to remedy rust.

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Garage Door Troubleshooting: Check Your Spring

Joe Provey — 2011-03-03T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Small Spaces, Exteriors & Facades, Living Spaces, Outdoors

If your garage door opener isn't in operating properly, you could be setting yourself up for an expensive repair down the road. We consulted a pro about one very common garage door troubleshooting issue.

Examine your spring for a break in the coiled metal. Another sign of a broken spring is if the steel cables that run along the wall near the door jambs are loose. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Is your garage door operating at full capacity, or is it poised to malfunction? Veteran garage door tech Ken Uliano recommends that you regularly check the real muscle of your automatic garage door system: the spring.

"Few homeowners realize that it's the spring (or springs) that do 90 percent of the lifting when an automatic opener lifts a garage door," says Ken Uliano, a professional garage door technician. "The garage door opener's motor is only designed to handle 10 percent of the lifting." Over time, the metal coil that makes up the spring becomes weak and loses some tension, causing the motor to work harder than it should. If the motor becomes overtaxed, the plastic gears inside may break and you'll be facing an expensive repair.

How to Test a Garage Door Spring
To check to see if your spring is no longer doing its fair share, conduct the test that Uliano uses.

Pull the release cord to disengage the J-arm from the carriage. Then conduct the test described above. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

First, disengage the J-arm (the J-shaped lever) from the carriage (see photo) by pulling on the release cord. Then manually raise the door 1 foot and let it go. The door should stay at the release height. Repeat this test at shoulder height and with the door almost fully raised. If the door slams to the floor when you let go, the spring is probably weak.

Caption: It's okay to make a slight adjustment of force by turning the lift force higher by one or two settings. More than that, however, and you risk damaging the opener's motor and the door itself.

If the door slowly drifts to the floor, a slight adjustment of the motor's lift force may solve the problem. Be careful, though: The garage door can be quite heavy, especially if the springs are weak. When raising one manually, lift with you knees to avoid hurting your back. Call a friend to help with the lifting if necessary.

If you suspect that the spring is weak, get a quote from a qualified technician to replace it. Don't wait until it breaks, otherwise you'll probably end up paying even more for the repair. In some cases, the spring can be tightened in order to increase tension. In others, it will need to be replaced.

A new spring is not an expensive part and only takes a pro 20 minutes or so to install. Fees, however, can range from under $200 to more than $400. Uliano says to ask for oil-tempered springs that are rated for at least 30,000 cycles. In addition, he says homeowners should opt for at least a 5-year warranty and to choose a lifetime warranty if they're not planning on moving anytime soon.

Safety tip: Do not attempt to adjust or replace springs your self. This is one repair that can cause serious injury or worse if you bungle it.

Once you're certain your garage door is stable, learn how to insulate it with these handy tips:

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Prevent a Roof Collapse: Remove Ice and Snow

Cheryl Thompson — 2011-02-08T14:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

Accumulating snow and ice may be pushing your roof to its breaking point. Avoid a roof collapse by taking these preventative measures.

A roof piled high with heavy snow and ice runs the risk of caving in. Photo: Bochalla, Flickr

Heavy snow and ice accumulation, coupled by a wave of roof collapses, have left residents of the Northeast rushing to remove enough snow before their rooftops give way. The demand is so great that snow removal tools like roof rakes have become winter's version of Tickle Me Elmo -- a hot commodity flying off of stores shelves.

With the threat of more snow on the horizon, state emergency officials across the region are urging people to clear their roofs and decks to minimize the likelihood of structural collapse. To prevent major damage, as well as save big bucks and stress, here's a breakdown of winter roof protection.

Dangers of Snow-Covered Roofs
Picturesque snow-capped houses are charming, but don't be fooled by their delicate beauty. Snow has a great deal of weight, and that weight increases immensely when rain, ice and sleet are added to the mix. Two feet of snow on the average-sized roof can be the equivalent of 38,000 pounds, or 19 tons, NBC News reports. All of this weight puts stress on your roof and weakens its structure.

Complicating matters more, the melting of this mass can cause water seepage, which can rot roofs, destroy insulation, flood attics, ruin gutters and damage the interior of your home.

Before attempting to remove snow from roofs, take note that clearing roofs can be a dangerous task. Think twice before jumping on the roof with a shovel in hand. Most officials don't support the idea of people climbing onto their roofs to remove the buildup, as the weight of a person may be just enough to trigger the roof to collapse. Also, taking the wrong step on an icy roof can easily send you sliding down a slippery slope.

So above all, be careful! If you're afraid to DIY it, don't.

Sha-put-ski, Flickr

Warning Signs That a Roof Is About to Collapse

The obvious sign that a roof is about to give way is sagging. Also, if you hear creaking, cracking, popping sounds, you should get out of the building as quickly as possible, as these are strong indicators of an imminent collapse.

Severe roof leaks, bowed pipes attached at the ceilings, cracks in the walls or masonry, doors that pop open, as well as doors or windows that are difficult to open are also signs people should look for, according to the Providence Emergency Management Agency.

In addition to your roofs, take heed of decks. Often times they are DIY hacks and may not be up to coding standards. This makes them highly susceptible to collapse under the weight of the snow and ice.

How Do You Remove Snow from the Roof?

A roof rake has a long pole that enables you to scrape away layers of snow from the roof. Photo: AP

Once snow buildup occurs or ice dams forms, using a roof rake is the best option that doesn't require spending cash on a professional. The rake has an extended handle, which enables you to pull snow off the roof -- from the safety of the ground.

To remove snow and ice, start from the edge and work your way into the roof using downward strokes. Try to to scrape the snow along the bottom of the roof, shaving two or three inches off. There's no need to scrape the roof entirely clean, as this will risk damage to your roof shingles or other roof covering.

If you don't have a roof rake (or your local hardware store is sold out), follow these tips to create a DIY roof rake.

Metal snow rakes conduct electricity if they come into contact with a power line, so be careful. Also, avoid using a ladder when removing the snow; the ladder's rungs can freeze and cause you to slip. Instead of the ladder, buy extension poles or a longer rake to reach higher portions of the roof. While the average roof rake can be purchased for about $40, the Avalanche Snow Rake is pricier (around $120) and allows for easy removal of snow from high roofs.

How to Prevent Ice Dams

Photo: Scott Hamlin, Flickr

- Get snow off the roof before it can cause ice damage.
Ice dams typically form when snow on the roof starts to melt due to heat escaping from inside the home. The melted water runs down the roof, refreezes and clogs up gutters. As more snow melts, because the gutters are blocked, the water is forced to travel under the shingles and leak into the house.

- Add insulation to attic floors.
A well-insulated attic and well-ventilated roof will prevent heat from escaping, which in turn will protect the roof from conditions that cause ice dams.

- Clean your gutters bi-annually.
Blocked gutters and downspouts can cause ice damns -- as well as rot and other water-based damage to your home. Before the first snow falls, clean your gutters to remove leaves, twigs and other debris that have collected through the fall. Perform this task again in the spring, to clean out the debris from winter.

- Keep gutters and drains free of ice and snow.
During winter months, make sure your downspouts are clean at ground level.

- Use pantyhose for a fast fix.
This Old House suggests filling the leg of a pair of pantyhose with chloride ice melter. Put the hose onto the roof so it overhangs the gutter. The calcium chloride will melt through the snow and ice and free up a channel for water to flow down into the gutters and off the roof.

SEE ALSO:
What to Do After a Blizzard
Ice Melters: Eco-Friendly Alternatives to Rock Salt
Snow Report: Fixes Winter Problems
Top Tips for Dealing With Snow [CasaSugar]
Fast Fixes for Ice Dams [This Old House]

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Snow Blowers: Repair and Troubleshooting

Mark Clement — 2011-02-01T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Exteriors & Facades, Know-How, Outdoors

As winter pounds down with record snowfalls, here are tips to make sure your snow blower is in top shape.

Photo: Uriah Welcome, Flickr

If you live in an area where it snows, cleaning up and digging out after a heavy snowfall is a simple fact of life. Sure, shoveling is the traditional way to get the job done, but your back, shoulders, and legs may be pleading for an easier alternative. Plus, with record snowfall pounding many cities this winter, a snow blower is starting to look like a pretty good item to have -- even to the most enthusiastic shovelers.

SNOW BLOWER TYPES
Snow blowers come in three varieties: electric, single-stage and two-stage.

Photo: Troy-Bilt

Electric Throwers
Electric snow blowers are smaller and more compact than their gas-powered counterparts. Their design makes them easy to maneuver and ideal for clearing lighter snowfalls on smooth, paved surfaces, as well as small areas like walkways, patios and driveway aprons. When it snows a foot or more and you've got some serious real estate to clear, opt for single-stage and two-stage units.

Single-Stage Throwers
A single-stage unit is powered by a gasoline engine, but propelled by you. In other words, you push it into the snow; it throws the snow. They are particularly adept at clearing heavy, wet snow into tall piles. If you live in light-snow area, save money by buying a single-stage machine. It's smaller and lighter than two-stage units, which are more effective in heavy and packed snow.

Two-Stage Throwers
Two-stage units, like the Troy-Bilt Storm 2620, are the big dogs of winter. Their larger gasoline engines drive a bigger auger, eject more snow and drive the wheels in forward and reverse. They're heavier and take up more space when not in use. If you've got ground to cover, they've got the muscle to make it happen.

Photo: Jronaldlee, Flickr

SNOW BLOWER REPAIR ISSUES
Even though we call on snow blowers to dig us out of trouble, they -- like any tool or machine -- can get thrown for a loop if things go wrong. Here's how to fix the common hiccups that occur with snow blowers:

Engine Fails to Start
If your snow blower won't start (and you've primed the motor), check to make sure the choke is in the proper position, the safety key is fully inserted, the tank has gasoline, and the spark plug isn't fouled. Nothing out of order? The problem may be that the fuel sitting in the tank has gone stale. Gas goes bad within a few months, so top the tank off with new gasoline. If the tank is full of gas, drain the tank and re-fill with fresh fuel.

The Engine Stops Running
So everything is going along swimmingly and you're trundling down the driveway throwing snow like a pro ... when the engine loses power. First, check that the spark plug wire is connected securely to the spark plug. If that doesn't solve the problem, check the gas cap. The gas cap is vented and if it's blocked by snow or ice the unit will lose power. Clear away anything that's there and give it another go.

If your snow blower continues to jam or stutter, it's best to slow down so that the machine does not take on more snow than it can handle. Photo: Nugefishes, Flickr

Failure to Discharge Snow
There are several reasons that your snow thrower's discharge chute can clog up. One culprit can be the snow itself. Moving slushy snow through a snow thrower's auger is kind of like making a snow ball in your hands. Moving and compacting the snow turns it to ice, which in turn clogs the chute. To fix, use the tool's clean-out tool (if it doesn't have one, try a stick) to remove the obstruction from the chute. Make sure to shut the unit down and disconnect the spark plug before doing this. Lastly, there could be a foreign object lodged in the auger. Again, power the unit down and remove the obstruction.

Unit Stutters and Grabs in Operation
Snow throwers work most efficiently when the blade can ride across the ground and get under the snow. But sidewalks often are riddled with dimples, pockmarks and cracks. If the machine is moving too fast when it hits an irregularity, it can bounce up a little and trap snow under the blade. This action causes the machine to jerk or stutter. The cure is usually to slow down.

If the irregularity is big, like an uneven sidewalk slab, the blade simply jams into it and the machine can't move forward at all. Again, the key to forward progress is to slow down. The blade maintains contact with the ground, doesn't take on more snow than it can handle, and as a result efficiently captures and ejects the snow.

KEEP YOUR SHOVEL
Even with a snow thrower in your possession, you shouldn't ditch your shovel just yet. You still need it to attack the steps and nooks that the muscled-up snow thrower can't go.

SEE ALSO:
What to Do After a Blizzard
Snowpacalypse: Tips to Keep Your Home Safe [Apartment Therapy]

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Curb Appeal: Create a Winter Wonderland

Francesca Clarke — 2011-01-20T16:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

Curb appeal isn't just for the spring and summer anymore. These winter-friendly ideas are sure to warm up your home's facade when temperatures plummet.

Photo: Getty Images

Just because it's cold doesn't mean it's time to stop maintaining the front of your house. Winter curb appeal can take on its own delightful characteristics; you just need to know what you're doing and be deliberate about it.

Who better to guide us on landscape design and curb appeal then J. Mark White, Landscape Architect and President of DC-based Garden Wise, Inc who recently appeared on HGTV's Curb Appeal.

Jenn Foster from Jenn and Colin Real Estate shares with us some of the ways that she advises clients keep their homes looking fresh and attractive through the winter months.

Tidy up. First thing's first: That pile of boots at your door and the snow-covered toys laying around the front yard need to go. Then rake up pine needles, branches and other debris. Clean up and cut back any dead flowers in the garden beds. Wash your front-facing windows and sweep the porch. This quick cleanup will immediately freshen up the look of your home and get you ready to take on some of the more fun winter facelift projects.

Photos: 60 in 3, Flickr; Getty Images

Paint your front door. A fresh coat of paint in a color that contrasts well with the changing tones of each season will ensure your home's best lasting impression. Jenn recommends red, burgundy and plum hues. She suggests using color often to create interest, and stresses how important it is during these dark months when all gardens and greens have been cut back, covered or have lost their leaves.

Decorate and accessorize. Hang a wreath or other decorative addition on your front door. A wreath is fitting decor any time of year, a long as you dress it up differently depending on the season. Jen suggests that you highlight it with warm rusts, golds, browns and greens. You can take a simple wreath, spray paint it metallic and add a brightly colored ribbon for a striking front door.

Paint your fence. The fence should be the same color as your home's siding. This helps the fence blend in with the house's setting instead of stealing the focus.

Photo: Getty Images

Utilize outdoor lighting. Lighting is always important, but it is even more crucial on dark winter nights. Landscape lighting is practical, as it extends the use of your front yard into into the evening hours, and allows for safe passage for you and your guests. It is also a very purposeful design choice. J. Mark suggests that new LED lighting focused on some of your front garden accents can significantly change your home's evening appeal. The right lighting will make your house a warm gem that stands apart from the others on chilly winter evenings.

Use pots and planters. Place pots and planters near the front door to create a welcoming entry. J. Mark tells us, "Landscape designs are anchored by focal points." He says that an easy and fast way to add an element of focus to a front door is to frame it with symmetrically placed planters and deliberately chosen plants. J. Mark suggests a pair of cast stone or Italian Terra Cotta urns planted with an upright evergreen shrub. The Graham Blandy Boxwood, and other year round covers including variegated English and Glacier are all lovely choices. Colorful pots with winter blooms will also significantly change your curb appeal, adding a splash of color.

Jenn's creative alternatives add character. Baskets, galvanized buckets, and barrels all make interesting alternatives. She suggests adding willow branches, evergreen arrangements, branches with colorful leaves, and gourds creating your own arrangement.

Photo: Getty Images

Frame your garden. Use clean and attractive borders. According to J. Mark, "landscape borders play an important role in a home's curb appeal -- whether we're talking about the whole yard or just a planting bed; a defined area catches the eye more readily than one that is indistinguishable." Various curbing materials such as concrete, brick, stone and slate add definition to your garden area and help it look tidy even in the winter months.

J. Mark says, "walls and fences with a simple design and layout make an essential design statement as they frame your property." though he does mention that limiting the fencing or masonry improvements to key locations in your space will save time and money.

Sometimes a simple, well-placed pergola can create a welcoming path. Jenn urges clients to consider cultured stone as a less expensive option to natural stone and arrange them in a path leading to your front door. Remember, it's all about that focal point.

Mix up the hardware. Giant transformations from minor hardware changes aren't just for kitchens and bathrooms, the front of your house can use a hardware makeover too. A rubbed bronze door knob, a glossy black mailbox, or decorative house numbers are quick ways to freshen up your look.

Photo: Getty Images

Keep your home's character intact. Remember that interesting sculptures, benches, yard ornaments and other creative touches add personality and increase your curb appeal (providing that they are tastefully done).

Be a good neighbor and shovel your walk. Even the most beautiful home will make a poor impression if it looks like you're careless about your neighbor's comfort and safety.

Tip: J. Mark says, "Repeated use of rock salt to melt ice will damage and kill plants, and ruin an important part of your curb appeal. Salt will also change soil structure. If you (or your city) uses a lot of salt, be sure to thoroughly water your lawn, front flower beds, and landscape in the very early spring." Click here for eco-friendly alternatives to rock salt.

Psst...Our sister site ShelterPop is hosting a design challenge -- go vote for your favorite student-designed product!

Check out this video for more on improving curb appeal!

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Blizzard Safety with Mike Holmes

Kristine Solomon — 2011-01-12T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Patios, Porches & Decks, Outdoors

Got winter blizzards on the brain? HGTV star Mike Holmes gives us the cold, hard facts on protecting your home from snow storms.

Mike Holmes has important advice for you about handling blizzards! Photo: George Pimentel/WireImage.com

As I write this, I'm bracing myself for the east coast's second brutal blizzard in two weeks. The last time snow and winds struck our area, we talked about what to do right after a blizzard. This time around, though, we want to offer the best possible advice on what to do before, during and after a big storm.

So I turned to home improvement pro Mike Holmes -- star of HGTV's "Holmes on Homes" and "Holmes Inspection" and the brand new publication Holmes: The Magazine to Make It Right -- for tips on protecting our houses from winter's wrath. Because this may be the first snow storm of 2011, but you know it won't be the last!

Here's what Holmes advises:

1. Make Sure Your Home's Envelope Is Impenetrable
The most important thing to remember when prepping your home for bad weather is that you don't want water that comes from melting snow to get behind any exterior sheathing -- the stucco, siding or bricks. If it does, the wood framing and structure will get wet. You want your exterior structure to be able to repel water -- but if any water does get in, you want the water vapor to be able to escape. It'll dry out eventually, but repeated wetting and drying will lead to rot. You also don't want the water to get further inside and soak the insulation. It's very difficult for moisture to escape once it's trapped within the building's envelope.

2. Remove Snow Immediately
Start by clearing snow away from doors and windows. Snow melting could come in windows, doors and other openings in the house, leading to mold issues. Should your area receive a large amount of snow, make every effort to remove large snow deposits from roofs and away from intakes, doors and windows, as large quantities of melting snow -- especially on roofs -- can cause a great deal of damage to not just siding and insulation, but to gutters as well.

3. Protect Your Home's Walkways without Chemicals
Keep the walkways and steps clear. However, when clearing walkways and driveways made of concrete, do not use salt. Salt eats through concrete and causes it to crack. Use eco-friendly products that don't contain harmful chemicals.

4. Prevent and Remove Ice Dams
An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and prevents melting snow from draining off the roof. The water that backs up behind the dam can leak into a home, causing damage to walls, ceilings, and insulation. To prevent the formation of the dam, be diligent about removing snow from the roof before it freezes; use a roof rake or push broom.

Psst...Our sister site ShelterPop is hosting a design challenge -- go vote for your favorite student-designed product!

Take a look at this video for shoveling safety tips!

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How to Make Pine Needle Mulch

Larry Bilotti — 2010-12-13T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

Fallen, dried out pine needles are much more than just a mess to clean up. They can be a sustainable form of nutrient-rich mulch for your garden.

Photo: Corbis

If you find your lawn covered with dried pine needles this time of year, or you've brought a fir tree into the house to decorate for the holidays, consider putting those fallen needles to good use. Dried pine needles, also known as pine straw, are perfectly suited to use as mulch. (Mulch, for those who are new to gardening, is a protective layer of organic material used to help soil retain moisture and discourage weed growth.) Pine needles, in fact, can offer significant benefits over their bark and wood chip counterparts. The key is to know where and how to use them.

Dried pine needles are also known as pine straw. Photo: Getty Images

Dried pine needles are completely organic, meaning they'll eventually decompose and return nutrients back to the earth. But they can slightly alter the pH levels of your soil over time, so consider using them first around your acid-loving shrubs and plants. Azaleas, chrysanthemums, roses, gardenia, jasmine, rhododendron, bayberry, and holly will all benefit from pine straw mulch. So, too, will hydrangeas, particularly if you want to change the color of your blooms from pink to blue. Dried pine needles can even be used in vegetable gardens where onions, garlic, mint, and tomatoes all relish the slightly elevated levels of acid in the soil.

In addition to being organic -- and sustainable as no trees are harvested in the process -- pine needles are lightweight, easy to spread and pack loosely, allowing air, water and nutrients to penetrate the straw. And, perhaps most importantly, they do not attract slugs, pests or termites associated with some wood chip mulch products. If you have sloping garden beds, pine needles are ideal because they form an interlocking mat that prevents them from washing away during frequent watering and rainfall. Their natural straw color also provides a beautiful backdrop to any garden landscape.

If you're collecting the pine needles from your yard -- or from your carpet or floor after the holidays -- make certain they are completely dried (resembling straw) before you spread them around the base of your plants. The greener the needle the more acid they contain. Ideally you want a 2- to 3-inch depth of pine straw when mulching. Coming up short? Check your local lawn and garden center to see if they carry pine straw mulch. Or look online, where you can have it delivered to your home in a box for roughly $40 for 100 square feet of coverage.

SEE ALSO:
Remove Tree Sap from the Carpet
Can You Identify These Dangerous Christmas Plants (CasaSugar)
Reuse Your Christmas Tree as a Garden Insulator (Lifehacker)

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Roof Cement: Your Best Defense Against a Leaky Roof

Joe Provey — 2010-11-26T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Outdoors

With winter on the way, many homeowners are thinking flashlights, snow shovels, and bags of ice melt. But when storms hit, you may have no better friend than a can of roof cement.

Use disposable tools and wear vinyl gloves when working with roof cement. It has a way of getting everywhere. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Your roof is your house's first line of defense against the elements. It quietly does its job day after day. Many of us don't give it a second thought -- until there's a problem.

So stay one step ahead of trouble. In these last days and weeks of relatively comfortable weather, it's the perfect time to inspect your roof for leak-causing damage (especially after a storm). Look for shingles that are askew or missing. Check for exposed nails. If you can safely climb up on the roof for a closer inspection, check every joint for splits, cracks and openings. Joints include the "seams", called valleys, where one roof plane meets another. They also include around penetrations, such as dormers, chimneys, skylights, vent, and waste stacks.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

A can of roof cement will fix most roofing problems. For example, if you spot a popped nail (a common entry point for water) working its way through the surface of a shingle, hammer it back in place.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Then spread a dab of roof cement over the exposed nail head to prevent water leakage. You may "camouflage" the patch by scraping the granules from a spare shingle and spreading them over the roof cement.

Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

You may also use cement to mend a torn shingle, "glue" down a loose shingle, or attach a new one. In all three cases, apply cement generously underneath the shingle, then press it back into place.

Flashing is another common leak point. Made of rectangular pieces or long strips of thin metal, flashing is a critical component of any roof, but it may crack with age. Look for flashing along valleys and around the perimeter of penetrations. If you spot a crack, use roof cement to seal it. It will keep water out until it's time to re-roof, at which point you should replace the flashing. Apply a 1/4-inch-thick and 3- or 4-inch-wide layer of cement over narrow cracks and tears. If the break is 1/4-inch wide or larger or several inches long, apply a thin bed of cement and embed an open mesh glass fabric in it. Then cover with additional cement.

Choose a roof cement, like this type by Karnak, that can be used in both wet and dry conditions. Photo: The Home Depot

There are several types of roof cement sold at home centers. To be on the safe side, opt for one that indicates it can be used in wet, cold conditions. Roof cement is available in 10 oz. cartridges, gallon cans, and 3.5 gallon cans. While the cartridges are a bit easier to work with, my recommendation is to pick up a gallon. You'll be surprised at how much you'll need to make a patch. Roof cement has a way of making a big mess, so also pick up plenty of disposable vinyl gloves and several disposable plastic trowels in varying sizes.

In order to have your roof cement ready to go, store it at room temperature. Otherwise, you will have to keep it at roof temperature for 24 hours until you can use it. Clean surfaces of dirt, gravel, and debris; and scrape away old roof cement to obtain a smooth patch. When applying to metal, remove rust and oxidation with a wire brush.

SEE ALSO:
21 Tips for Readying Your Home for Winter (WalletPop)
All About Roof Shingles (ShelterPop)
Perform a Basic Roof Inspection (Lifehacker)

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