DIY Life

1. Remove the trim screwed to the jamb that receives the deadbolt.
2. Cut a piece of rigid metal electrical conduit about six inches long.
3. Use a paddle bit the same size as the O.D. of the conduit and drill through the jamb and framing studs.
4. Squirt a bit of glue inside the hole.
5. Insert the conduit into the hole until it's flush and re-install the trim.
   

Stud finders are one of the best, but most unappreciated tools in a DIYer's toolbox. The real benefit of them is that they can find studs in your wall for hanging pictures, shelves, or light sconces.

This is a great step forward from the old method of rapping the skin off your knuckles, and then when you think you found a stud, drive in a finish nail to be sure.

The first generation of stud finders used magnets to detect drywall screws or nails. The next generation relied on checking the density in the wall (this is the kind I use since I use it quite often). The newer ones use radar technology to work their magic. How cool is that?

But if you're not going to use one often, make your own for just a few bucks. All you need is some mono-filament fishing line, a magnet, and a dab of hot glue or piece of tape. Just glue a length of mono to the magnet. Then, holding the end of the string, move it horizontally across the wall (and maybe a bit up and down) and the magnet will alert on a screw. Check out this magnet stud finder video.

The only caution is to make sure you found a stud, not a metal pipe or conduit. Just check up and down to be sure you intermittently find "positives." A pipe won't be discontinuous. Check horizontally as well, just for good measure.

When I was in high school, I had some friends that had a rock band... a very loud rock band. I liked to hang out at their practice sessions. To sound-proof their "studio" (spare bedroom) and avoid parental wrath, they did some pretty crazy things... things like stapling egg cartons to the walls.

Later, when I was a commercial carpenter, we had contracts to install fabric-covered architectural acoustic panels in churches, school gyms, and the like. Now there's a better solution for sound studios, workshops, or anywhere else sound-proofing is called for – sound-proof acoustical-grade drywall.

It's made by Quiet Solution, and it works just like dressing for cold weather: by layering as the panels are assembled. It installs and is taped-and-floated just like regular drywall, and comes in a variety of STC ratings. It's not cheap -- the cheapest panel is $39.95 -- but if sound-proofing is needed, it's an all-in-one solution that may be more economical in the long run.

No matter how well a home's drywall is initially finished, there's always the possibility of your drywall seams cracking. Houses are living, breathing things (so to speak) so they react to humidity, violent weather, and natural settling. There's nothing particularly difficult about repairing the odd seam or two. Here's an article that digs into the meat of fixing the cracked drywall.

The tool and material investment isn't too costly; in fact, you probably have most of them lying around the house anyway. Basically you'll need:

• Taping knife
• Utility knife
• Drywall
• Drywall compound
• Mud pan
• Sandpaper
• Drywall tape
• Scrap wood
• Drywall screws

In almost all circumstances, the drywall joints run in both the horizontal or perpendicular directions. When a crack first raises its ugly head, don't fix it right away, no matter how tempting it is (or how much nagging is involved). Give it awhile. Depending on whether it gets worse or not will give you a clue as to whether you have a more serious underlying problem, like a cracked foundation.

Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome (PRS) is brought to you every Thursday by Kelly Smith, who is hopelessly afflicted with this home-altering ailment. Remodeling can be a never-ending and contagious illness, so read on, at your own risk. Don't say we didn't warn you.

My home is a modest three bedroom model with a two car garage. It's about thirty years old, roughly speaking. The layout is nice and the construction is sound. One thing I like about it is the kitchen; I like to cook and there's plenty of real estate. The problem is that after all the plates, coffee cups, pots, pans, and small appliances have been put up, there's precious little room for canned goods and cereal boxes. I need a pantry!

Luckily, there's a door in the kitchen that leads directly into the garage (no cars allowed; it's my wood shop). This makes the pantry solution pretty much a no-brainer. I decided to just steal some space and build out a small room.

I have occasion to work at a Catholic retreat center in the beautiful north Georgia mountains, adjacent to a National Forest. Over the Christmas break, in a bitter cold spell, one of the mobile homes used as temporary housing had frozen water lines (no one was at the camp to "drip" the water). We got the lines thawed by covering the suspect freeze points with plastic sheeting and using a "torpedo" heater (see Anna Satler's excellent post on using a hair dryer; unfortunately for us, the number of frozen pipes we had would have required 10 or 12 hair dryers and maybe half the power of the community!) to take care of business; it was a hassle but the situation was resolved with no need to replace broken water lines and shower drains. Our next immediate need was to insulate the area under the home, then skirt it to protect the insulating board. Keep reading, even if you don't own a double wide; this fix can be used for any structure that is raised above the ground -- a mountain cabin, wood shop, or any building which has water lines to protect.

The gallery illustrates the basic process; join me after the jump.

Gallery: An easy way to insulate and skirt an elevated structure

I've given you some hints on cutting batt insulation and cement backer board, so let's move on to sheet rock (or dry wall), the staple of many home wall coverings. It's made of gypsum, has various qualities (e. g. mold resistance, flexible rigidity) and is manufactured in various sizes and thicknesses, the most common being 1/2" x 4' x 8'. On a vertical surface, it goes up pretty quickly and is fairly easily installed by two folks, and with some increased exertion, by one.

I want to show you how to hang sheet rock overhead. It requires tools similar to those needed for cutting backer board plus two very important extra items -- an extra pair of hands (preferably attached to an extra person) and a sheet rock lift. If you can hang sheet rock overhead, you can easily handle vertical surfaces, save a tool rental, and allow your significant other to do something other than muck about with gyp board.

Check out the gallery to get a feel for the process, then read on.

Gallery: Hanging sheet rock overhead

Sometimes we all get in over our heads and need a little professional help. Here are a few things to remember when you find yourself needing to locate a little hired help to fix up the homestead.

1. If they won't come give you a free estimate keep dialing until you find those that will. 3 written estimates is a good minimum.

2. Check their license. Use the Internet and verify that it is both valid and under their name. Contractors sometimes let other friends work "under" their license. Don't get caught using someone "borrowing" a license.

3. Make sure you only pay up front what your state allows them to charge you, and never finish paying for the job before it is done or you can bet on never seeing them complete the job.

4. Make sure the contract has a finish date with built in penalties for delays and time over runs. You can make this more palatable to the contractor by offering a bonus for early completion.

5. If you are buying the materials make sure you keep track of receipts AND where the material goes. Buying 400 sheets of drywall and then only counting 75 sheets hung on the studs should raise a red flag. Look at coverages of materials used and how many square feet of work is being done to try to minimize the chances of being taken for a ride.