The new ParentDish: helping raise kids of all ages

PRS: wall construction technologies, part 5

Traditional wood stud framing

Wall construction with insulated concrete forms


Insulated concrete forms (ICFs) are another rising star in wall construction technology. These are also panel-like yet different from SIPs. They are blocks constructed with two sheets of Styrofoam with a void between them. Like SIPs, they are designed by the architect or engineer, assembled by a manufacturer, and delivered to the job site.

Once they've been delivered, they're assembled as specified on the blueprint. Once in place, the void in the blocks forming the wall are poured with reinforced concrete. The resulting wall is both strong and insulated on both sides.

The pros and cons

Like SIPs, ICFs form a nearly air-tight structure. This makes it an Energy Star candidate which means a lot for the home's equity. Also, there is little to no scrap to deal with. This not only makes it green and renewable, but it saves big bucks on labor and disposal overhead.

This particular wall technology is well-suited for areas that are prone to high winds, wild fires, and the like. Due to the acoustic and fire-proof aspects, these are being used in interior demising walls (separating units in duplexes or hotels).

The insulation provided by the Styrofoam can be rated up to R-25 depending on the specified thickness! Exterior walls can be finished with any method used with stick framing - siding, brick, stucco, ect.

And in conclusion...

That pretty much wraps up our overview of wall construction technology. I'm becoming a big fan the green methods: SIPs and ICFs, although they lend themselves more to new construction and additions.

PRS: wall construction technologies, part 4

Traditional wood stud framing

Wall building with structural insulated panels


Structural insulated panels (called SIPs in the industry) are just now making big inroads into the residential market. This is more common in custom homes than in cookie-cutter subdivisions. The panels are basically a sandwich.

These panels have a core of rigid foam plastic insulation with sheet OSB (Oriented Strand Board) on both sides. Unlike the types of framing materials we've already covered, SIPs are custom-built by a manufacturer to the specifications of the architect or building engineer.

Once they're delivered to the job site, the carpenters assemble them. They can be used not only in the walls, but in the floor and roof as well.

The pros and cons of building with SIPs

The resulting structure is nearly air-tight. This is a huge pro because it means an energy savings of 50% over a wood framed structure! Another pro is that the building process yields almost no scrap. This, plus the energy savings, puts the home on the fast track to an Energy Star certification.

Due to the reduced construction time, the cost of building with SIPs is roughly equal to that of more conventional framing methods.

One con of SIPs is that it takes training to install properly. Many contractors have yet to take the leap, and for DIY'ers, there is a learning curve involved. But that being said, this is a great choice for exterior walls. Next, we'll examine ICFs, a good choice for both exterior and interior walls.

next page

PRS: wall construction technologies, part 3

Traditional wood stud framing

Metal framing; commercial and residential construction

Metal studs are made of galvanized steel. They generally come in two grades: structural, which is used for exterior and load-bearing walls, and light gauge, which is used for interior walls. It's also very handy for radius walls and accents.

Although metal framing is used almost exclusively in commercial building, it's starting to see some action in the residential market. Some builders specialize in it.

Pros and cons of metal framing

There are many pros to framing with metal studs. Walls go up very fast. On light gauge studs and track, no saw is required for cutting, just use a pair of aviation snips. Structural studs do require a chop saw, but this also goes very fast.

Metal studs have "keyways" cut in them to run conduit through; there's no need to use a time-consuming hole saw like with stick framing. The stock is very straight and true so the finished walls are very straight. When hanging drywall, if the joint is a little off, the stud can be flexed slightly.

Of course, metal studs aren't flammable, so that's a big plus. At worst it turn to spaghetti under extreme heat, but by the time that happens, chances are that all the occupants will be out of the structure anyway. Oddly, I haven't heard of any insurance companies giving a rate break for this.

On the con side, metal framing also generates scrap. It can be recycled, but the money it brings is so low that most people just landfill it.

Now, lets move on to newer, greener wall construction systems!

next page

PRS: wall construction technologies, part 2

Traditional wood stud framing

Traditional residential framing


Wood stud framing, also known as stick framing, is the most used method of building both interior and exterior walls. The most common studs and top and bottom plates are made out of pine. Using pine keeps the price down since its easy to work and grows very quickly. It's a very renewable resource.

In the old days, when carpenters erected a house that was two stories or more, the method used was balloon framing. This means that the studs on the exterior wall went all the way up. This made for some very long stock; quite inconvenient. It was time for something a little more manageable.

The answer was a framing method called platform framing. This started to be the preferred method during the 1920's. Aptly named, the upper stories were built with normal length studs on the "platform" made by the top of the lower story. Not only were materials standardized, but construction was much easier.

Pros and cons of wood stud framing

On the pro side, wooden studs are very inexpensive, especially when bought in bulk. It's a pretty competitive market, with most stock coming from the U.S. and Canada. (Finally, something not from China!) It's also easy to work with. Since it's a soft wood, it cuts easily.

On the con side, most of it is cut to fit at the job site. This makes for a lot of scrap, which is the antithesis of building green. Luckily, some of this scrap can got to facilities that make fuel for pellet stoves. This is done when it's economically feasible.

Another problem is that many studs are warped, which makes it hard to apply drywall at times. And of course, since it's wood, it burns readily. Not a great trait in a home. But the chances for a catastrophic fire are greatly diminished with the next wall framing technology we'll talk about: metal studs.

next page

A deadbolt hack for heightened security

A typical deadbolt
One of the worst kinds of home break-ins is the kind where the bad guy just kicks in the front or back door. It doesn't really matter that your deadbolt is engaged; it only extends a couple of inches at most and the door jamb doesn't take much to splinter.

But with a little effort you can greatly enhance the holding power of the deadbolt. When the wall is framed and the door rough opening is made, the opening is actually an inch or two wider than the door jamb requires. This allows for plumbing the jamb. Wooden shims are inserted between the framing studs and the jambs.

So this is what you do -
  1. Remove the trim screwed to the jamb that receives the deadbolt.
  2. Cut a piece of rigid metal electrical conduit about six inches long.
  3. Use a paddle bit the same size as the O.D. of the conduit and drill through the jamb and framing studs.
  4. Squirt a bit of glue inside the hole.
  5. Insert the conduit into the hole until it's flush and re-install the trim.

Now, it's not just the jamb holding the deadbolt, you've got the strength of the stud working for you!

Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome - The benchtop table saw advantage

benchtop sawThis week, instead of talking about a particular project, I'd like to talk about one of the most important and versatile tools in the shop: the benchtop table saw. The fact of the matter is that although I'd love to have a contractor table saw or cabinet table saw sitting in the middle of my wood shop, that's not an option.

Sure, it's a two-car garage, but it contains everything else as well. Workbench, lathe, a pile of lumber, power stool storage, paint storage, and of course room enough to actually assemble a project.

The latest models have really come a long way from the earlier models. Manufacturers weren't born yesterday, and recognizing the huge market, responded with plenty of R&D. The newer ones have virtually eliminated vibration issues.

Benchtop saws spin 10 inch blades, so there's no problem with common hardwood lumber sizes or sheets of plywood. And if a chunk of stock happens to be just a hair too thick, you can always do the old trick of cutting half way through and then flipping it over and finishing the job. I'd recommend having a helper if you try this!

And along with that disclaimer, here's another one: always wear those safety glasses or goggles.

Read on to learn the advantages of a benchtop saw, accessories available for it and more.


Continue reading Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome - The benchtop table saw advantage

Stud finder on the cheap

magnetsStud finders are one of the best, but most unappreciated tools in a DIYer's toolbox. The real benefit of them is that they can find studs in your wall for hanging pictures, shelves, or light sconces.

This is a great step forward from the old method of rapping the skin off your knuckles, and then when you think you found a stud, drive in a finish nail to be sure.

The first generation of stud finders used magnets to detect drywall screws or nails. The next generation relied on checking the density in the wall (this is the kind I use since I use it quite often). The newer ones use radar technology to work their magic. How cool is that?

But if you're not going to use one often, make your own for just a few bucks. All you need is some mono-filament fishing line, a magnet, and a dab of hot glue or piece of tape. Just glue a length of mono to the magnet. Then, holding the end of the string, move it horizontally across the wall (and maybe a bit up and down) and the magnet will alert on a screw. Check out this magnet stud finder video.

The only caution is to make sure you found a stud, not a metal pipe or conduit. Just check up and down to be sure you intermittently find "positives." A pipe won't be discontinuous. Check horizontally as well, just for good measure.

Sound-proof drywall?

When I was in high school, I had some friends that had a rock band... a very loud rock band. I liked to hang out at their practice sessions. To sound-proof their "studio" (spare bedroom) and avoid parental wrath, they did some pretty crazy things... things like stapling egg cartons to the walls.

Later, when I was a commercial carpenter, we had contracts to install fabric-covered architectural acoustic panels in churches, school gyms, and the like. Now there's a better solution for sound studios, workshops, or anywhere else sound-proofing is called for – sound-proof acoustical-grade drywall.

It's made by Quiet Solution, and it works just like dressing for cold weather: by layering as the panels are assembled. It installs and is taped-and-floated just like regular drywall, and comes in a variety of STC ratings. It's not cheap -- the cheapest panel is $39.95 -- but if sound-proofing is needed, it's an all-in-one solution that may be more economical in the long run.

How To Repair Cracked Drywall Seams

No matter how well a home's drywall is initially finished, there's always the possibility of your drywall seams cracking. Houses are living, breathing things (so to speak) so they react to humidity, violent weather, and natural settling. There's nothing particularly difficult about repairing the odd seam or two. Here's an article that digs into the meat of fixing the cracked drywall.

The tool and material investment isn't too costly; in fact, you probably have most of them lying around the house anyway. Basically you'll need:

  • Taping knife
  • Utility knife
  • Drywall
  • Drywall compound
  • Mud pan
  • Sandpaper
  • Drywall tape
  • Scrap wood
  • Drywall screws

In almost all circumstances, the drywall joints run in both the horizontal or perpendicular directions. When a crack first raises its ugly head, don't fix it right away, no matter how tempting it is (or how much nagging is involved). Give it awhile. Depending on whether it gets worse or not will give you a clue as to whether you have a more serious underlying problem, like a cracked foundation.

The Walk-In Pantry

Perpetual Remodeling Syndrome (PRS) is brought to you every Thursday by Kelly Smith, who is hopelessly afflicted with this home-altering ailment. Remodeling can be a never-ending and contagious illness, so read on, at your own risk. Don't say we didn't warn you.


My home is a modest three bedroom model with a two car garage. It's about thirty years old, roughly speaking. The layout is nice and the construction is sound. One thing I like about it is the kitchen; I like to cook and there's plenty of real estate. The problem is that after all the plates, coffee cups, pots, pans, and small appliances have been put up, there's precious little room for canned goods and cereal boxes. I need a pantry!

Luckily, there's a door in the kitchen that leads directly into the garage (no cars allowed; it's my wood shop). This makes the pantry solution pretty much a no-brainer. I decided to just steal some space and build out a small room.



An easy way to insulate and skirt an elevated structure

I have occasion to work at a Catholic retreat center in the beautiful north Georgia mountains, adjacent to a National Forest. Over the Christmas break, in a bitter cold spell, one of the mobile homes used as temporary housing had frozen water lines (no one was at the camp to "drip" the water). We got the lines thawed by covering the suspect freeze points with plastic sheeting and using a "torpedo" heater (see Anna Satler's excellent post on using a hair dryer; unfortunately for us, the number of frozen pipes we had would have required 10 or 12 hair dryers and maybe half the power of the community!) to take care of business; it was a hassle but the situation was resolved with no need to replace broken water lines and shower drains. Our next immediate need was to insulate the area under the home, then skirt it to protect the insulating board. Keep reading, even if you don't own a double wide; this fix can be used for any structure that is raised above the ground -- a mountain cabin, wood shop, or any building which has water lines to protect.

The gallery illustrates the basic process; join me after the jump.

Gallery: An easy way to insulate and skirt an elevated structure

Continue reading An easy way to insulate and skirt an elevated structure

How to Make a Water Level

Many DIY projects require leveling. For example, I recently blogged about installing a prehung door. This just required using a 4' level to get the door jamb plumb (and the header level). Hanging pictures? Use that same level to get two adjacent pictures aligned. But what if you need you need to transfer a benchmark around a corner or from one room to another?

Enter the water level! It's not only the most accurate; it's cheap, and you can make one in less than a minute. Sound impossible? Not so! All you need is a length of clear surgical tubing. The i.d. (inside dimension) should be 3/8" or 1/2". Then all you have to do is fill it with water with the exception of a foot or so on either end. Then work all the air bubbles out. One person holds the waterline on a mark in one room and the other person marks the wall in the other room. Just move the tube up and down to tweak it. It works because water seeks its own level.

Can anything go wrong? Yes, as I found out the hard way. We were remodeling an office building in the wintertime. We got out of our heated truck, went up to the 15th floor, and discovered that we needed to add a little water to the tube; just a quart or so. So we shot a benchmark on a column and transfered it to every corner of every wall and column. Every mark was wrong. The warm water on one end had a different density than the cold water added to the other end. Live and learn.

How to hang sheet rock overhead--it ain't easy!

I've given you some hints on cutting batt insulation and cement backer board, so let's move on to sheet rock (or dry wall), the staple of many home wall coverings. It's made of gypsum, has various qualities (e. g. mold resistance, flexible rigidity) and is manufactured in various sizes and thicknesses, the most common being 1/2" x 4' x 8'. On a vertical surface, it goes up pretty quickly and is fairly easily installed by two folks, and with some increased exertion, by one.

I want to show you how to hang sheet rock overhead. It requires tools similar to those needed for cutting backer board plus two very important extra items -- an extra pair of hands (preferably attached to an extra person) and a sheet rock lift. If you can hang sheet rock overhead, you can easily handle vertical surfaces, save a tool rental, and allow your significant other to do something other than muck about with gyp board.

Check out the gallery to get a feel for the process, then read on.

Gallery: Hanging sheet rock overhead

Hanging sheet rock overheadHanging overhead sheet rockHanging overhead sheet rockHanging sheet rock overheadHanging sheet rock overhead

Continue reading How to hang sheet rock overhead--it ain't easy!

Circular Saw blade Knockout Removal

Circular saws (sometimes generically called Skil saws after the popular brand) are about the closest thing to being a carpenter's best friend. They're portable and it only takes a minute to adjust the blade depth or angle. In order to cut accurately, however, the saw blade has to run true without the slightest hint of a wobble.

Some saws have a round arbor and others have a diamond shaped arbor. For this reason, the sawblade comes from the factory with a knockout. If your saw has a diamond shaped arbor you'll need to remove it. The trick is doing this without knocking the blade out of whack.

Here's the easy way to do it. You'll need a bolt with a hex head of about 5/8" and a short section of metal pipe with an i.d. of about 2" to 3". Now it's a simple matter of centering the pipe on the underside of the blade, putting the hex head on the knockout and giving it a smart rap with your framing hammer.

Quick tips for contractor hunting

Sometimes we all get in over our heads and need a little professional help. Here are a few things to remember when you find yourself needing to locate a little hired help to fix up the homestead.

1. If they won't come give you a free estimate keep dialing until you find those that will. 3 written estimates is a good minimum.

2. Check their license. Use the Internet and verify that it is both valid and under their name. Contractors sometimes let other friends work "under" their license. Don't get caught using someone "borrowing" a license.

3. Make sure you only pay up front what your state allows them to charge you, and never finish paying for the job before it is done or you can bet on never seeing them complete the job.

4. Make sure the contract has a finish date with built in penalties for delays and time over runs. You can make this more palatable to the contractor by offering a bonus for early completion.

5. If you are buying the materials make sure you keep track of receipts AND where the material goes. Buying 400 sheets of drywall and then only counting 75 sheets hung on the studs should raise a red flag. Look at coverages of materials used and how many square feet of work is being done to try to minimize the chances of being taken for a ride.

Continue reading Quick tips for contractor hunting

Next Page >

About DIY Life

Do Life! DIY Life highlights the best in "do-it-yourself" projects.

Here you'll find all types of projects, from hobbies and crafts to home improvement and tech.

Featured Projects


Powered by Blogsmith

DIY Life Exclusives

scentuallife kiddie crafts avant-yard

Sponsored Links

Featured Galleries

An easy way to insulate and skirt an elevated structure
USB analog gauge overview
USB analog gauge circuit
Making and using a facial mask
Hot Sprinklers
Homemade lava lamp for kids
Create a Celtic pendant for St. Patrick's Day
Easy no-sew jeans messenger bag
Bathroom tile makeover - fish
Hinamatsuri doll examples
Poisonous Plants 101
Playground 4x4s
Upholstered nightstand makeover
iPod+Nike DIY duct tape pocket
cootie catcher
10 ways (OK, maybe a couple more) to increase your vehicle's fuel economy
Nike+iPod hacks and mods
Tile Floors
Valentine's Day Scentual Oils
Building the JDM2 PIC programmer
Hanging sheet rock overhead

 

Weblogs, Inc. Network