DIY Life

All-Natural, Homemade Paint

Joe Provey — 2011-09-11T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Essential Skills, Know-How, Crafts & Celebrations

Looking for a gentle alternative to chemical-based interior paint? Stir up this simple, four-ingredient recipe.

Milk paint transformed this old cassette cabinet into a charming powder room organizer for storing towels, tissues, and toiletries. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Cavemen did it. The early Egyptians did it. American Colonists did it. And even today, many people are rediscovering the art of making interior paint for the home.

In an age of store-bought paints with high performance finishes, you may ask yourself, why make paint? For me, it's the natural, handcrafted look -- along with the satisfaction of being self-reliant. For others, it may be because homemade paint is the greenest and least toxic alternative possible to traditional paint. Homemade paints aren't based upon petrochemicals and they're far less toxic than commercial paints -- even the many zero-VOC paints now emerging on the market.

The ingredients for homemade paints vary. This recipe consists of lime, water, pigment, and milk. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

The easiest to make and least expensive homemade paints consist of milk, lime, and pigment. For additional body a filler, such as chalk powder or plaster can be added. My preferred recipe is simplicity itself:

-- Hydrated lime (available at most home and garden supply stores)
-- Water
-- Pigment (powder or liquid)
-- Whole milk (at room temperature)

Mix lime with water using a putty knife or plastic spatula. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

1. Fill a container with one to two cups of hydrated lime. Gradually add water and stir until you have a thick paste.

2. In a separate container, do the same with the pigment powder. For a small batch like this, 2 to 4 tablespoons of pigment is typically sufficient.

3. Gradually add milk to the lime paste until you achieve the consistency of sour cream. Then add the pigment paste and mix thoroughly.

Safety tip: Despite the relative low toxicity of the ingredients, wear vinyl gloves and a dust mask when working with lime and pigment.

Gradually stir milk into the lime paste until you achieve a consistency of loose sour cream. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

ADDING PIGMENTS TO HOMEMADE PAINT
You can buy pigmentsat many hardware and artist supply stores. Avoid using pigments made from toxic compounds, otherwise you'll defeat the purpose of making your own paint. Some common toxins used in pigments include cadmium, lead, mercury, and cobalt. Here's a good online source for non-toxic pigments. You will have to experiment with pigments to achieve the color you want. Be sure to buy plenty of white pigment, as you'll be using a lot of it. It comes in two forms: titanium dioxide and zinc. The former is a bit more opaque.

You can make many of your own colorants using natural ingredients but the process is a lot more time-consuming than making paint alone. Also, the colors produced through home-brewed dyes are more subtle than store-bought pigments. If you do want to make homemade pigment, try these methods:

-- Add water to steel wool for a red rust coloring.
-- Try simmering everything from berries and vegetables to bark and leaves to create the dyes. Blackberries, for example, make a strong dye.
-- Brew coffee or many tea to create neutral tones.
-- Boil peach or crab apple leaves for greens.
-- Use store-bought juice concentrates, such as blueberry and cranberry, to create pleasing tints.

Use a natural bristle brush to apply the milk paint, and allow it to dry for a few hours before recoating. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

ADDITIONAL TIPS ABOUT HOMEMADE PAINT
-- Milk paint is not as scrubbable as its commercial cousins. In areas subject to spills, apply a protective coat of shellac or oil finish. If you choose the latter, stay green with a plant oil-based finish.

-- The shelf life for milk paint is short. Store unused paint in the refrigerator. It can be used until the milk sours. Brushes clean easily with soap and water.

SEE ALSO:
Before & After: Aging Furniture with Milk Paint (Design*Sponge)
Paint Color Trends to Move On From (ShelterPop)
Create a Crackled Paint Finish with Plain School Glue

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How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets

Brie Dyas — 2011-08-28T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Small Projects, Makeovers & Inspiration, Know-How

Yes, you can paint kitchen cabinets...and not be left with exposed brush marks or peeling paint. Kate from Centsational Girl shows us how she achieved these amazing results on her kitchen island.

Centsational Girl

The right way to paint kitchen cabinets has always been a mystery to me, one that I've always been too intimidated to undertake by myself. That's why I was thrilled when DIY home remodeling genius Kate from Centsational Girl has done gone through the tough task on her kitchen's center island. And it turns out that the task isn't so tough anyway. Here, check out her before...

Centsational Girl

It's impressive to see that the new white coat of paint is just as smooth as the original finish. You would really think that she had bought the island new. So, how did she do it? First, lots of sanding. While we always know to clean off the cabinets before painting, some of us (maybe even me) neglect to thoroughly sand the finish. Kate also recommends light sanding between paint coats as you work. (This is what prevents brush strokes.)

Another hint is to use an oil-based primer, which has a bonding agent and dries to a hard finish. Kate says that it's also helpful to use a conditioning additive like Penetrol to lengthen the time you have to work with the primer and to also minimize brush strokes.

Once the primer coat completely dries (and you've sanded away any rogue brush strokes), apply two coats of oil-based paint. While latex does dry quicker, an oil-based paint tends to be more durable over time. (Just be careful of white and paler shades, since oil-based formulas in these hues can yellow as they age.) For more tips, check out Kate's post on how to paint kitchen cabinets.

Want to read up on painting cabinets before you bring out the brush? Check out...
Replace, Reface or Refinish?
Painting Kitchen Cabinets
The Daily Fix: Cover a Scratch on Your Painted Cabinet

And to see another way to paint kitchen cabinets...

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets

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Could You Get Paid to DIY?

Amy Preiser — 2011-08-25T14:07:00+00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Small Projects, Essential Skills, Know-How

In England, two landlords are testing a system that pays tenants to do their own routine repairs. Will it catch on?

If you're going it anyways, shouldn't you get the cash? Photo: Getty

Ever find yourself unclogging your drain or repairing a chipped tile and grumbling "I should really be paid for this"?

England's National Housing Federation feels your pain. The BBC reports that housing associations and councils spend about $1,633 on repairs per property, per year. So doesn't it make sense to put the money in the hands of the renters, rather than the contractors?

No, that doesn't mean renters will be in charge of everything that goes wrong -- just the little things. Landlords will still be responsible for uneven floorboards, where-did-those-come-from ceiling leaks and complicated plumbing issues.

And for the truly anti-DIY crowd, fear not: Tenants are allowed to use the cash for hiring help on their own...or perhaps buying dinner for a particularly handy friend. And while some skeptics might argue that simply paying tenants to take on a landlord's duties makes things more difficult for the renter, consider this: With the easier stuff pushed off their plates, wouldn't landlords be better equipped to handle major repairs? After all, if my landlord didn't have to deal with every one of my 29 building-mates calling to get a fix for their chipped sink, maybe he'd have time to tackle that weird water sound happening in all of our bathrooms. Or get the washing machine to stop eating my quarters.

And he's not the only person to benefit -- if I knew I could get paid for painting over the spackle he placed after a minor leak, I'd get around to it much sooner. Housing Minister Grant Shapps says it best: "When residents take pride in their homes it saves their landlords cash, so I think it's right that tenants should benefit too."

What do you think: Would you welcome cash-for-DIYing? Or do you want all home repair issues off your to-do list?

What about you?

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Unclog a Drain: Baking Soda Vs. Drano

DIY Life Staff — 2011-08-24T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

If your drain is backed up, here's how to get the water flowing.

Sure, now the home-care market is permeated with cleaning solutions. But there was a time when we relied on good ol' fashioned elbow grease and know-how when it came to cleaning our homes. We may have newer, more advanced options, but there's something to be said about the methods that have stood the test of time. So we've decided to put old-school cleaning techniques to the ultimate test -- pitting them against high-tech, modern-day cleaning solutions. Our third installment is the ultimate gross-factor: Declogging drains.

Get that water running in no time. Photo: Flickr, kamienok

The Problem: Clogged drains
At some point, it happens to everyone, more often to those of us with long, full locks. Bathtub drains get clogged with hair and soap scum; kitchen drains get clogged with food debris. So what can you do to get things flowing again?

Old Solution: Baking Soda Cocktail
I recently chatted with a friend's grandmother about this pesky drain problem (a common one in my household), and she handed over a "time-tested" recipe for your own at-home drain cleaner. "Dran-NO," she told me. "This is better for your lungs and easy to do."

Here's how to make her concoction: Mix together 1 cup of baking soda, 1 cup of salt and 1/4 cup of cream of tartar in a glass or plastic sealable container. Stir until mixed. Measure about a quarter cup of the mixed powder and pour into your clogged drain. Pour two cups of boiling water into the drain, and let stand for about an hour, then run fresh water from the tap.

This, of course, caused another problem for me: I don't keep cream of tartar on hand. But I did purchase some for the occasion, and the solution did its magic.

However, being a woman who likes to have options, I wanted to try another time-tested solution. Lucky for me, a friend was experiencing the same problem and volunteered to be my test case.

If you, too, don't have any cream of tartar in your cupboards, you can also try dumping 1/2 cup of baking soda down your drain, followed by a half cup of white vinegar. Cover the drain (if you don't have a drain cover, you can use a small bowl or plate), and let the mixture stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Finally, pour a pot of boiling water down the drain. Apparently the baking soda and vinegar dissolve fatty acids, allowing the clog to wash down the drain.

This second option worked as well, though did not have the same lasting effects as option one did (my friend and I compared drainage ability a week later). Perhaps she has thicker hair or more stubborn soap than I? Either way, it's good to know there's a natural solution that works.

New Solution: Store-bought drain cleaners. Drano and Liquid Plumr are the two most recognized labels when it comes to store-bought drain cleaners. I've used both, and in all honesty, couldn't tell you which one works more effectively (thus, purchase the best priced).

These solutions are very cut-and-dry; pour half of the bottle over slight clogs and a full bottle over stubborn ones, let sit for 15 to 30 minutes, then run hot water to clear the drain. If you prefer store-bought cleaners, the thicker versions are best for super tough clogs. Whether thick or thin, the downfall is that they have a strong, headache-inducing smell. And unless your bathroom is well ventilated, that odor can't be good for your health.

The Verdict: We vote for home-made drain cleaners. Although the store-bought cleaners work great and save you the hassle of mixing your own solutions, the fumes are harsh for your health, and the health of those around you. We'd vote for the natural option -- keep your drains and air a happy place.

Check out more in our Old vs New series:
Cleaning red wine stains
Testing scruff mark removers

By Allison Lind

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Random Recast Round-Up: 4 New Ways with Egg Cartons

Brie Dyas — 2011-08-14T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Know-How, Living Spaces

In this week's Random Recast, we took a look at a few unexpected uses for egg cartons.

Day 4: Egg Carton House

Goldenhen

It's not coming to a development near you, but it's nice to look at isn't it? This art installation by the Australian studio Goldenhen turns egg cartons into ersatz bricks. A wry commentary on the dream of suburban homeownership, this piece is based on the Howard Arkley painting "Family Home: Suburban Exterior" (1993).

Want to see the rest of this week's Random Recast? Visit ShelterPop.

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Random Recast: Egg Cartons Day 3

Brie Dyas — 2011-08-13T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Know-How, Living Spaces

In Random Recast, we give ordinary things a more stylish second life. This week: Egg cartons.

Otero Design Studio

In this innovative chandelier by Otero Design Studio, egg cartons become an unexpected lampshade. Though it's more on the "inspiration" end of the spectrum, there is a way to DIY it. To find out, check out ShelterPop.

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Patio Flooring Ideas: What's Right For You?

DIY Life Staff — 2011-08-12T16:07:00+00:00

Filed under: Patios, Porches & Decks, Essential Skills, Know-How, Outdoors

Before you renovate your patio, make sure you know all the flooring options. From stone to brick, these five materials are sturdy and great looking -- but only you know which one is the perfect fit for your yard.

Can you tell that these decks are both made of composite decking? Photos: This Old House

Do you feel like you just don't know where to start when it comes to your patio? If you're suffering from a bland concrete slab or a blanket of grass, there are a number of outdoor decking and patio options that are easy to install, beautiful to look at and long-lasting. Don't let another summer go by hanging out in the driveway -- you can create the perfect space for entertaining, you just need the right footing.

1. Wood or composite decking. Decks are probably the most popular outdoor addition that a homeowner can create that also is one of the biggest bangs for your buck. Choosing between wood and composite decking can be difficult, as there are pros and cons to each. Composite decking is a newer innovation, made of a combination of plastics and recycled cellulose-based fillers such as wood fibers from recovered saw dust and bamboo. Wood decks are made of, well, wood. You can refinish a wood deck, but you cannot do so with a composite deck. You will need to re-seal a wood deck each year. Both materials are very durable, but wood may become victim to mold, rotting or termites whereas composite decking may stain or warp in intense heat.

A cedar or redwood deck costs roughly $18 to $22 per square foot, but a more inexpensive choice would be southern yellow pine at $10 to $15 per square foot. In comparison, composite decking is about $20 per square foot. These prices include installation.

2. Concrete pavers. Concrete was the most popular outdoor patio material for many years. However, in this day and age, concrete options have expanded far beyond the single slab. Concrete now comes in various sizes and shapes, and you can even stamp your concrete with different patterns.

Concrete is very affordable too, around one-fifth less than natural stone pavers, running anywhere from $1 to $3 per square foot compared with $7 to $10 for natural stone. However, concrete is slightly less durable than natural stone. Keep in mind: it can crack, so purchasing and saving a few backups pieces is a smart move!

Deck tiles work on top of just about any surface. Photo: Handy Deck Systems

3. Wood deck tiles. If you can't have a raised deck, or you are going for a slightly more modern look deck tiles might be the best solution for you. They are called the "instant outdoor floor solution" not only because they're fast, but they're very easy to install. Most companies offer wood deck tiles that just snap and click together. You can now even get them in FSC-certified lumber. While these deck tiles are usually pre-finished it is important to oil them every 6 to 12 months to keep them looking new.

The costs vary depending on the manufacturer, but typically plain deck tiles run anywhere from $7 to $12. You can also get them in wood composite.

4. Stones and pebbles. While this might seem fairly old-school to you, stones and pebbles are making a comeback. Not only are they easy to install (as long as you can sweat it out shoveling and wheeling them into your yard), they're easy to maintain, are kid- and pet-friendly and work well in just about all weather conditions. In modern gardens and yards, pebbles are a must-have. Plus, there is something so tranquil and zen-like about using stones in your landscaping.

A brick patio is a timeless option for an outdoor space. Photo: Corbis

Stones and pebbles are calculated by the pound or ton and vary in price depending on the type of stone and the size. You can usually grab a bag of river pebbles from your local hardware store for $5 to $7, but if you're doing a large project like a patio area, consult your local nursery or landscape company. Don't forget to measure first!

5. Brick. Nothing seems more beautiful and timeless than well-laid brick. However, this little red buddy can be quite a challenge. For one, brick patios can be plagued by salt stains, moss and weeds, and on top of that, they're expensive to lay. The can get very hot in the summer, and can be difficult to sweep or shovel. However, bricks are a very eco-friendly material. You can even get historical or used bricks from builders or construction companies. Also, check sites like Craigslist -- you might luck out and get an entire patio's worth of brick for free (as long as you haul it away)! Your local home improvement store probably sells them for around $0.35 to $0.65 per brick.

Love the outdoors? Go beyond the brick or get some shade on your new patio with these fun patio umbrellas.

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20 New Ways to Use Magic Erasers

DIY Life Staff — 2011-08-12T13:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

They might look like your average cleaning tool but you should trust the name here: These cleaning blocks are kind of magic.

Magic erasers can clean almost everything! Photo: Pyrex Love

From Mr. Clean's original "magic eraser" to the generic options, eraser cleaning blocks have made cleaning easier, less messy and dare we say...even fun! Sure, these foam blocks can get the gunk off walls (sometimes even upholstery if you're careful) and other household surfaces, but there are so many more uses for these little blocks of heaven. Here are 20 unusual uses for an eraser block to make the most of your spring cleaning time:

Quick Tip: Cut up one eraser block into four little blocks. It'll make your purchase last longer, and, it'll make it easier for you to get into smaller nooks and crannies.

1. Outdoor Furniture and Toys

Take grungy white resin or white painted furniture by lightly scrubbing with an eraser cleaning block. The eraser gets into crevices and cracks while leaving paint finishes intact. The same principle applies to outdoor plastic toys.

2. Pool Liners

Pool owners, this will make your life easier: A gentle scrubbing on your liner will get rid of the water mark better than any other product.

3. Vinyl

Take an eraser to scuffs on just about anything made from vinyl: siding, boat seats, shoes, etc.

4. Car Interiors

Clean the car seats with an eraser block: Go lightly on leather, but it's okay on fabric and vinyl, lightly scrub the car steering wheel. Eraser blocks get rid of grease streaks left inside after the car's been to the shop, too.

5. Hubcaps

Clean your car's hubcaps with an eraser for a water-free car wash.

6. Refrigerator

Get rid of last year's drippings that are pooled in the back of the fridge. It'll take a whole eraser block, but it gets the job done. The seals that have gotten a bit black and moldy will also respond well to an eraser.

7. Dishwasher Interior

What are those colors inside your dishwasher from time to time? Lime, mold, ewww. Just take an eraser to them and the stains will banish.

8. Bathtub and Sinks

Getting rid of dirt and water marks is easier (and not so gross) with an eraser block. Bathtubs can take a tough scrub, but go lightly on sinks -- even a light scrub gets rid of that caked on dirt that you often can't see until you try to get it off.

9. Rust Removal

Scrub anywhere (around pipes in kitchen and bath) that you see rust.

10. Computer

A magic eraser gets rid of oil and dirt that has built up on your keyboard and mouse; you can use it on laptops, too.

11. Phones

Use one on your phone's mouthpiece, too -- it gets rid of the same grime that builds up on your computer.

12. Bugs

Wherever there are smooshed bugs (porch pillars, car windshields, interior walls, exterior doors, exterior light fixtures) wipe them away with an eraser block.

13. Glass Stove Tops
No need to have special stove top cleaner on hand, get rid of burned-on food by lightly scrubbing until the gunk is gone.

14. Dishes and Glassware
Rub hard-to-clean build-up off of thrift store dishes and glassware, like Pyrex bowls, following advice from the blog Pyrex Love.

15. Gutters

Get rid of green slime that builds up on gutters with an eraser. It's another ewww-worthy task, but it'll be almost effortless with an eraser.

16. Mirrors (and Windows)

Many fans of eraser blocks swear it gives them a streak-free and clean mirror, if the pad is slightly damp when you give it a light scrub.

17. Floors

Erase scuff marks, old paint drips-great for most floors (but always go lightly, especially on finished wood).

18. Grout

Which leads us to grout. The eraser does well with most grout (except really old and darkened-beyond-help grout that will remain gray even with best scrubbing efforts).

19. Granite countertops

Everyone is afraid to scrub granite, but an eraser pad, used at first gently and then with a little more oomph as the stains disappear, will indeed get stubborn stains out of granite.

20. Leather

You can use and eraser lightly on leather upholstery, purses or shoes to lift up marks -- just be sure to use a gentle touch.

(Disclaimer-never use eraser cleaning blocks to clean skin, animal fur, glossy, brushed, satin or dark painted surfaces-including appliances, and lastly, never use on delicate fabrics.)

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Random Recast: Egg Cartons Day 1

Brie Dyas — 2011-08-09T12:45:00+00:00

Filed under: Know-How

In Random Recast, we give ordinary things a more stylish second life. This week: Egg cartons.

Andrew Wagner

An egg carton certainly isn't the first material that comes to mind when you think of chair/seat construction. But then again, the story of how this stacked egg carton stool came about is a serendipitous one.

To read all about it, visit ShelterPop.

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The Easy Way To Install a Doorbell

Melissa Olund — 2011-08-08T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Exteriors & Facades, Essential Skills, Know-How, Eric Stromer

Our resident expert Eric Stromer shows you how to install a doorbell with minimal hassle.

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First Look: Design Sponge At Home

Brie Dyas — 2011-08-05T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Know-How, Living Spaces

We recently caught up with amazingly talented Grace Bonney of Design Sponge, who is coming out with a new book full of inspiration and projects in September. Here's a peek of what you can expect from the much-anticipated guide.

Design Sponge at Home (Official Book Trailer) from The Panic Room Videos on Vimeo.

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Mosquito Prevention: An Expert Opinion

Brie Dyas — 2011-08-03T17:08:00+00:00

Filed under: Know-How

The summer heat hasn't dampened the thirst of that persistant pest, the mosquito. But an article in the August 8, 2011 issue of The New Yorker reveals a more scientific approach to keeping mosquitos away.

tkw954, flickr

The New Yorker isn't the first place you'd think of when it comes to advice about mosquitos but lo and behold, there's a story on that very (itchy) topic. Rebecca Mead interviewed Leslie B. Vosshall, the Robin Chemers Neustein Professor in the Laboratory of Neurogenics and Behavior at Rockefeller University, who is trying to find out why mosquitos bother some people but stay away from others.

A few of the highlights: Vosshall can often get bit by mosquitos two hundred and fifty times in a span of a few minutes, mosquitos will not lay eggs near fish and that only female mosquitos bite. She also spoke of a product called The Mosquito Magnet, which emits carbon dioxide and heat in order to attract mosquitos, then sucks them up. The endorsement doesn't come without caution, however:

"But it's a little bit dangerous," she added. "All the mosquitos from far and wide will come, and you are gambling that they will be more attracted to the machine than they are to you."

To read the full article, visit The New Yorker.

Want more tips on warding off mosquitos? Check out...
Mosquito Prevention: The 10 Most Bizarre Tips
How to make your own organic mosquito repellent

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How to Hang Curtains: A Quick Refresher

DIY Life Staff — 2011-08-03T10:15:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

We all could use a quick refresher on the right way to hang curtains-especially if you picked up a new style of panels, sheers or drapes.

audringjr, flickr

Learning how to hang curtains so they're at the right height and level can seem tricky...but if you just follow these simple steps, you'll finish the job in no time.

How to Hang Curtains: 1. Measure the Window
First, measure the width of the window. You want the curtain rod to be at least five inches longer than the window. You can attach the curtain to the window frame, but generally it is more visually appealing to move the rod outside the frame to the drywall. Drywall is also easier to fill and repair than wood should you decide to move or even change the style of curtain rod.

Exceptions to this are if you are hanging long dramatic window treatments and want to alter the perception of the window size. By attaching rods several inches to a foot above the top of the window opening and hanging long curtains, you can make short windows look longer. For long skinny windows, extending the curtain rod out on each side of the window a foot or more will make the window appear wider.

Using your tape measure, measure out from the side of the window frame. Make a light pencil mark. Now measure up from the window frame. Two inches is the standard measurement for both of these, but as discussed above, you can do whatever feels right for your decor. (Note: two inches out is standard for where the bracket should be installed. The rod itself extends beyond the bracket.)

How to Hang Curtains: 2. Make Sure the Curtain Rods Are Level
Once you've measured the location of the curtain rod hardware on each side of the window, get out your level and make sure that the marks are level. This is especially important in older houses that have "character"-meaning, uneven ceilings, window casings, etc.

How to Hang Curtains: 3. Install the Curtain Rod Hardware
Using your drill, drill a small hole on your mark. This is called a pilot hole. Never, ever, ever just screw something into your wall without making a pilot hole first. If you hit a wood stud behind the drywall, you're in luck! You can just screw your bracket in with the hardware that has been provided.

Most likely though, you won't hit a stud. In this case you'll have to use drywall anchors, which look like tiny plastic projectiles. Once you tap them into the wall they spring open behind the Sheetrock and anchor in your screw.

You are going to need to drill a hole that is the exact same size as the anchor. This is not as difficult as it seems. And remember you can always go larger if the hole you initially drill is too small. Drill your hole.Gently tap your anchor into place with your hammer. It shouldn't slide in too easily,nor should take brute force to try and muscle it into place.

Screw in your curtain hardware directly into the anchor. Repeat the process on the other side of the window. Then hang your curtains. Step back and admire your work!

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Meet The Most Stylish Pawn Broker Ever

Brie Dyas — 2011-08-01T14:44:00+00:00

Filed under: Know-How

Who knew that a pawn broker could be so glamorous? We chat with Lauren Kaminsky, the 22-year-old Vice President and head of sales at the EZ Pawn Corporation, a family-run business based in New York. Her latest project piqued our interest: Curator at Manhattan's Beauty & Essex lounge/restaurant, one of our favorite hangouts. The drinking-and-dining area is actually hidden behind a pawn shop...and that's where Lauren comes in.

For a full glimpse into her day-to-day life, visit ShelterPop.

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10 Home Projects You Should Never DIY

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-29T17:45:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Obviously, we love all things DIY! But some home projects are just not worth doing on your own: Whether for time, cost or safety reasons. I asked Jeff Kaliner, co-founder of the Power Home Remodeling Group (the fourth largest home remodeling company in the nation) for his opinion on what should be left to the pros.

photo: reallyboring, flickr

- Roof Repair. Not only can you hurt yourself if you attempt to fix your roof on your own, but you can also damage your roof and end up in need of even more costly repairs from a pro. Limit your interaction with your roof to seasonal check ups to remove debris from gutters and check for cracked or broken shingles. Since most roof systems can last for up to 20 years, this is definitely a case where you should leave it to the pros.

- Window replacement. Installing new windows is a great way to save energy and in turn, lower your monthly energy bills. However, from the specialized tools required to form exterior cladding, removal of lead-based paint, and the time it takes to master the art of working with aluminum, there are several elements of this project that make it best left to a pro. While new windows can be pricey, by having them properly installed you'll save that money (and likely more) in the long run on energy bills and tax credits.

- Exterior painting. Paint and preparation vary depending on the surface, but no matter the material, several steps of power washing, sanding, paint scraping and caulking must be completed...and that's before you even begin to prime the surface. The goal of many DIY projects is to save time, but this one is a definite time suck that requires a good deal of expensive tools and materials. Do yourself (and your neighbors) a favor and avoid making a mistake the whole block will have to suffer along with you. Hire a pro and stick with painting the interior of the home. Please also keep in mind that older homes likely have lead-based paint issues, which can be hazardous to your health if not handled with care and costly if not disposed of properly.

- HVAC. Unless you're performing a relatively simple task like installing a programmable thermostat to save energy, most HVAC projects require the help of a professional because very few homeowners know more than just the basics of air ventilation and circulation. In addition, keep in mind that your family's safety could be at risk if your home's ventilation is not working properly. The multiple steps involved, from creating a frame for ductwork to sealing and insulating the ductwork and finding the proper locations for return vents, mean these projects can take a novice much longer than a weekend to complete.

- Attic Insulation. If your attic is easily accessible, it can be tempting to attempt to insulate your attic on your own, but think twice before buying fiberglass insulation materials to install. In order to achieve the energy savings you're looking for, an attic must be sealed prior to installation of insulation. A licensed contractor will use specialized diagnostic tools to find and repair leaks, and if you are not completely thorough with this step, the insulation will not make the difference you are looking for.

- Structural changes. While most homeowners know to keep away from loadbearing walls, some forget to also avoid walls that contain water or gas pipes, electrical wires and ductwork. Hiring a professional can save you the time you'd spend with the guesswork involved in figuring out what walls can go and what must stay.

- Gutter repair. The installation of new gutters can add great value to a home, but keep in mind that it's difficult to near impossible to repair gutters without impacting your roof. Instead of risking injury by repairing downtrodden gutters on your own, look into the cost of having a professional replace them first. It will likely pay off in the amount of time you save and equity you add to your home.

- Installing decking. In most municipalities, homeowners must secure a permit when building a deck higher than 18 inches off the ground. Building codes will also affect your build and how far you'll need to dig before installation of footings. Add to the fact that most deck material companies offer installations at a discount when purchasing materials, and this is a project best left to the pros.

- Basement Waterproofing. Do your homework before attempting to solve your water problems. While minor issues can be temporarily fixed with waterproofing paint, the results are sure to fade after one or two heavy rainstorms. For a permanent solution, look to professionals who can waterproof the foundation of your home and ensure proper water management that will keep your basement dry.

- Tree Removal. Forget that you'll need to figure out what to do with the tree once you've knocked it down and consider the time you'll spend measuring and preparing for the fall. There are a lot of factors at play here that a professional tree remover will be much better equipped to handle, oftentimes at a relatively low cost.

So, what do you think? Would you ever attempt these home projects on your own?

And for DIY home projects that you SHOULD do, check out...
Paint a Door - The Shortcut Version
Curb Appeal Landscape Lighting
5 Easy Landscaping Tips for Quick Curb Appeal

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Found: A Way To Get Rid of Stink Bugs?

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-27T14:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Know-How

Stink bugs have flummoxed home owners and bug experts alike. Conventional bug sprays don't work, fumigation doesn't work and if you try to squash them...well, you'll soon find out why they are called stink bugs. But has a homeowner in the Philadelphia area found a way to trap stink bugs?

hthrd, flickr

To get rid of stink bugs, start with a trap. First, cut off the top of a 2-liter bottle of soda. Then, invert this top inside the "body" of the soda bottle (it'll look like a funnel), taping to secure. Next, completely cover the outside of the bottle with duct, electrical or masking tape. Fill the bottle with 1/8 cup of water and 1 tsp. of dish soap. Place the trap on top of a solar light...and wait. For the full how-to, visit MSNBC.

Have you ever tried to get rid of stink bugs? Do you have any tips?

For more ways to get rid of bugs, check out...
How to Get Rid of Fruit Flies: Testing 8 Odd Methods
Testing: 8 Odd Ways to Get Rid of Ants
Testing: 10 Odd Ways To Get Rid of Flies

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The Ultimate Estate Sale Guide

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-27T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How

Forget antique stores, eBay or even etsy. One of the best ways to find high-quality vintage furniture, housewares and even china is by going to an estate sale. And I'll let you in on a little-known secret: Estate sales are where those antique dealers shop in the first place. (You'll see one in the background of this video, scooping up china.)

So, have I convinced you to try estate sale shopping? Here's where you can find one in your area:

- Your local newspaper. Estate sale companies place multiple ads in the classified and/or real estate sections.
- Craigslist. Estate sales are frequently listed in the "Garage Sale" section.
- Estate sale-specific websites. A few ones to keep in mind: EstateSales.net, EstateSales.org, WeekendTreasure.com. All of these sites consistently update their nationwide listings so you're sure to find a sale near you.
- Estate sale companies. I found the above estate sale by plugging in "Estate sale companies New York or New Jersey" into Google. It brought me to Dusty Old Bags, a company that has some of the best estate sales in the tri-state area. So, try searching your state-you might find a similarly great resource.

Want more tips on shopping secondhand? Check out...

Goodwill Hunting: School House Decor
Secondhand Stories: The Weirdest Things Brought Into My Consignment Shop
How to Bargain at Flea Markets
Don't Move It: Yard Sale Tips and More

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Turn Columns Into Floor Lamps

Southern Living — 2011-07-27T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Know-How, Living Spaces

Architectural columns abound at salvage shops, but we never really thought they could have any other use...until we saw this genius project by our friends at Southern Living.

featuring

Eddie loves to transform castoffs into masterpieces. He spotted these 5-foot tall fluted columns, reminiscent of grand, old homes with wide, open porches. He loved the beaded detailing around the tops, but multiple lives had resulted in layers of cracked and peeling paint, so they were in dire need of an update.

Left, Babs Perkins; Right: Miki Duisterhof

With fresh coats of paint and easy upgrades, they became beautiful floor lamps. Look for columns such as these at flea markets or salvage yards for around $100 and up.

Materials
2 hollow columns
2 lampshades
handheld electric sander or sponge sanding block
primer (shellac-based stain blocker)
white paint
cordless drill or screwdriver
2 electrical lamp kits
2 fence post caps
8 leg mounting kits
8 - 2.5" round bun furniture feet
16 -1" finishing nails

Step 1: Add Height
Using a cordless drill or screwdriver, attach one mounting plate to each of the four bottom corners of the columns. Secure the feet into the plates with the nails included in the leg mounting kit.

Step 2: Prep and Paint
Sand and prime your columns before painting to ensure a smooth and lasting finish. Begin by using a handheld electric sander or sponge sanding box to remove any loose paint. Then, use a damp cloth to remove any remaining dust or dirt. Apply one coat of primer to the columns, fence post caps, and feet. Allow them to dry. Next, apply two coats of paint, allowing each coat to dry between applications.

Step 3: Wire for Electricity
Drill three separate holes, all in alignment, to thread the wiring throughout the body of the hollow column: 1-starting at the center of the fence post cap, drill a hole. 2-move to the center of the column top and repeat another hole. 3-turn the column over and drill the last hole directly through the center of the column base. With the three holes completed, follow the directions included in the lamp kit.

Tip: Depending on the height of your column, you may need a longer length of cord than the one provided in the kit. To see how much cord you may need, measure the height of the column. Add the distance between the lamp and plug. Then give yourself two extra feet. For a pair of lamps, double the overall length. If you do need to purchase more cord, be sure to pick up two quick-connecting flat-cord plugs as well.

Step 4: Cap it Off
Once the columns are wired, attach the fence post cap to the top and secure with finishing nails. Complete the lamp by attaching a socket, harp (included in your lamp kit) and shade.

Step 5: Porch Perfect Shade
Since Eddie's lamps are for the porch, he had a friend create custom, porch-appropriate shades using outdoor fabric, water-resistant adhesive, and vellum plastic frames. If your lamps are well protected from the elements, store bought shades will work just as well.

For the full how-to complete with step-by-step photos, visit Southern Living.

And don't miss these great stories...
Make The Most Out Of Kitchen Storage
18 Real-Life Room Makeovers
Instant Furniture Makeovers

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Random Recast: Corks Day 5

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-22T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Know-How

In Random Recast, we find new uses for ordinary things. This week: Corks.

aileenrae, etsy

Love to scrapbook? Then you'll love this new use for old corks: Stamps. Simply draw a design into one end of the cork using a craft knife, carve away the surrounding cork, then get stamping. Or, to get a pre-made set, visit etsy seller AileenRae.

Want more ideas for re-using wine corks? Check out...
Random Recast: Corks Day 4
Random Recast: Corks Day 3
Random Recast: Corks Day 2
Random Recast: Corks Day 1

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9 Free Ways To Cool A Room Better

Brie Dyas — 2011-07-22T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

With record-breaking temperatures around the country, we all want to know how to cool a room- fast. These nine tips won't set you back a dime, but will make your air conditioner, central air system or fan do its job better.

Medusa Properties, flickr

Yes, it's hot outside. And inside, for that matter. But if your preferred cooling system-whether it's an a/c or a fan-doesn't seem to cool a room as good as it should, try these nine fixes.

Window or Portable Air Conditioner

- Clean The Air Filters. Trapped dirt will most definitely reduce air flow through the unit, leaving you with disappointingly weak breezes from the vents. So, give the air filter a good scrubbing with soap and water at least once a month (more if you live in a city, or if there's been lots of humid weather). While you're there, clean the evaporator coil. Dirt there will just insulate the coil, reducing its ability to absorb heat.
- Move It. Your air conditioner will work overtime if it's near a heat source, which can be anything from somebody else's a/c to a cable box. Or, if it's surrounded by junk. These all reduce airflow, which means less cooling power.

Central Air/Split System

- Clean The Condensing Unit. This can get filled with leaves, grass clippings and dirt. Clean this loveliness away with a soft brush. Also, remember: The condenser should have 24 inches of breathing room in order to run properly and keep from overheating.

- Add Duct Tape. Go to the attic to check for gaps in ceiling ducts. A good way to test this? Light incense, then see if the smoke gets pulled towards or away from the ducts. If it does, this indicates a leak. Patch it up with duct tape.

Ceiling Fan

- Clean The Blades. Yes, we're cleaning again. Caked-on dirt can slow the blades down (and it doesn't look very nice, either). Turn off the fan, then clean each blade.

- Make It Run Counterclockwise. Did you know that your ceiling fan has a "summer" setting? Me neither. But it's simply flipping a switch on the side of the motor housing. Trust me, you'll notice a difference.

- Balance It. If your ceiling fan gets wobbly when you run it, the alignment is out of whack. Turn off the fan, then make sure the blade holders are firmly attached to the flywheel. Tighten any loose screws.

Plug-In (Box or Stand-Up) Fan

- One more time: Clean It. This is easier on a box fan, where all you have to do is unscrew the front and back grates (and dip them in a bath, or hose them down). If you have a stand-up model, check out this tutorial for how to clean an oscillating fan.

- Open The Top Window. This is if you have casement windows, of course. But opening the top half of the window will create cross-circulation, giving a place for hot air (which rises) an escape hatch.

Want more cool cures? Check out:

Energy Savings: Central Air Conditioning
How to Clean and Maintain Air Conditioning Systems
The Daily Fix: How to Balance a Ceiling Fan

And to see how to change out the air filter in your central air, watch this...

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