DIY Life

Hardware Store Decor

Kristine Hansen — 2011-09-12T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Living Rooms, Home Offices, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Looking for chic, industrial housewares? Look no further than your local hardware store. The new book "Home From the Hardware Store: Transform Everyday Materials Into Fabulous Home Furnishings" shows you how to transform utilitarian items into furniture and accessories that really work.

Machine-Age Candlesticks, as seen on page 106 of Stephen Antonson and Kathleen Hackett's book, require no tools to assemble. Photo: Lesley Unruh

For co-authors (and real-life couple) Stephen Antonson and Kathleen Hackett, it all goes back to a chandelier in Paris. Shortly after they began dating, Kathleen moved to the City of Light for six months. On his first visit, Stephen noticed the peaked ceiling in her rented apartment, thinking it could really benefit from a chandelier.

That day, while Kathleen was running errands, Stephen took a quick trip to the hardware store and picked up four supplies -- a pair of pliers, a single jack chain, a baling wire, and four candles -- which he used to make a chandelier by the time she got home that afternoon.

"I make a lot of things...whenever we need something I make it," says Antonson, who met Hackett when we was a home editor and she was an executive book editor at Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia. Soon after that chandelier was hung, he and Hackett realized they had a book idea on their hands. To come up with enough projects to fill an entire book, Antonson would wander the aisles of local hardware stores (they live in New York City) each morning with a cup of coffee, in search of inspiration.

The end result, "Home From the Hardware Store: Transform Everyday Materials Into Fabulous Home Furnishings" (Rodale Books, $23), was published in early November. It contains dozens of affordable DIY decorating projects, which use common hardware store items in brilliant yet simple ways to create modern, industrial decor. "If you can wrap a birthday present, you can do half this stuff," says Antonson.

Not familiar with hardware store items? Not to worry; you don't need to know an item's intended use. Instead, look to the lines, materials and beauty in each individual piece.

(Left) The Space-Age Coffee Table uses galvanized elbows (a type of pipe fitting) as an unexpected table base. (Right) The Periscope Lamp turns a crimp elbow (also a pipe fitting) into functional art. Photo: Lesley Unruh

Some of our favorite projects from the book include the Machine-Age Candlesticks (pictured, top), which require no tools except your own two hands. We also love the Periscope Lamp (pictured, above right), which transforms a crimped elbow into display-worthy light source.

The authors were kind enough to let us share with you our favorite project of all, the Space-Age Coffee Table (above left) -- an ideal DIY project for a weekend warrior.

SPACE-AGE COFFEE TABLE
To fasten the tiers together, you need to assemble the base without screwing anything together, and then disassemble it in vertical sections, which is not exactly an intuitive process, given the way the base it stacked.

Materials

Eight 90-degree galvanized elbows, 7" each
Four 90-degree galvanized elbows, 4" each
Eight zine bolts and nuts, 8=1" x 32
Twelve #6 sheet metal screws. 1/2" each
36" x 1" round solid pine panel
One quart primer
1/2 quart paint in desired color (we used Benjamin Moore Soot/#2129-20)
Industrial strength adhesive-backed Velcro, 35" x 2" strip

Tools

Black permanent marker
Drill with 3/16" and 1/8" bits
Phillips-head screwdriver
120-grit sandpaper
2" all-paints paintbrush

Instructions

1. Join four 7" elbows to form a circle. Repeat with the remaining 7" elbows, and then join the 4" elbows to make a smaller circle.

2. Stack the circles on top of one another to form tiers, aligning the ribs and placing the smaller tier in the middle. Find the seams where two elbows meet. On the ribs adjacent to the seams, mark the tiers deep in the middle, where they meet, with a horizontal line.

3. Pull the stack apart in half vertically, making note of the top and bottom of the base. Using the marks as guides, mark an X 1" beyond them, toward the center. Use a drill with a 3/16" bit to drill a hole at each X.

4. Break the tiers into quarters so you can fasten one quarter of the base together at a time. Rest the elbows on a work surface so that the openings of the elbows are facing you. Align the holes, slide the bolt through, and fasten the nut with your hands. Don't fasten it too tightly -- once you put the entire base together, you'll need a little room to play. Repeat with the remaining three sections of the base.

5. Put two sections together to make half the base. Use an 1/8" bit to drill a hole 1/2" from the seam on each tier, through two layers of elbow. Screw in the sheet metal screws. Repeat on the other half of the base. Put the two halves together. Screw them together in the same manner, drilling a hole 1/2" from the seam on each tier, through two layers of elbow, and fasten with the sheet metal screws. Set the base aside.

6. Sand the top, bottom, and edge of the pine round. Wipe it down with a soft cloth, brush with a thin coat of primer on the top and edge, and let it dry. Sand the round all over and wipe it down with a soft cloth again. Apply a coat of paint on the top and edge and let it dry. Apply a coat of paint on the bottom and let it dry.

7. Cut the Velcro into twelve 3" pieces. Separate the hooks from the loops. Wipe down the top of the table base with a soft cloth to remove any traces of grease or residue. Remove the adhesive backing from one of the loop pieces and fasten it 3 1/2" from the outer edge of the base, along a rib. (This is the high point, where the tabletop makes contact with the base.) Repeat with the remaining loop pieces and ribs.

8. To determine where to put the hook sides of Velcro on the underside of the table, set it on top of the base. Use a pencil to mark the underside of the tabletop where the Velcro is attached to the base. This is where the outside long edge of the hook sides of the Velcro should be attached. Place the tabletop wrong side up on a work surface. Remove the adhesive from the hook pieces of the Velcro and fasten them to the table, using your pencil marks as guides. Flip the tabletop over and set it onto the base, aligning the Velcro pieces.

Related:

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Tour George Nakashima's "Handmade House"

Michael Gotkin — 2011-08-29T15:40:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Exteriors & Facades, Living Spaces, Outdoors

It only makes sense that artists' homes would be as inspired and beautiful as their work. Case in point: The Pennsylvania home of George Nakashima.

We're so excited to get a peek inside the new book "Artists' Handmade Houses". Below, an excerpt for your enjoyment. Text by Michael Gotkin; Photography by Don Freeman; Published by Abrams.

George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania. Nakashima designed the Arts Building, completed in 1967 and later renamed the Minguren Museum, as a tribute to his friend Ben Shahn. The southern facade, shown here, has a second-story porch and covered walkway to the cloister, a separate three-room building used to house guests. Photo: (C) Don Freeman

George Nakashima
New Hope, Pennsylvania

Though he originally trained as an architect, George Nakashima became so disappointed by the construction methods he observed being utilized in buildings that he changed course, deciding instead to start a career making furniture, which he could control entirely from design to construction and finishing. On this new path, Nakashima would become a great innovator in twentieth-century furniture design, with few rivals and countless imitators. Influenced by the craftsmanship and simple lines of traditional architecture in both the United States and Japan, Nakashima created a distinct hybrid of the two cultures in his hand-finished furniture and in the complex of buildings, including home and workshop, that he designed and built in rural Bucks County, Pennsylvania. These buildings combine his sophisticated understanding of architectural engineering with his respect for humble, vernacular structures. He produced designs that are modern yet imbued with the handmade quality and values of a bygone era, and they continue to inspire new generations.

George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania. In Kevin's House, a natural peeled post provides structural support and adds a decorative element in the doorway between the kitchen on the left and the dining and living areas on the right. Three Concoid chairs surround a Minguren table in the dining area. Photo: (C) Don Freeman

Nakashima embraced construction as a kind of improvisation, noting that "the house was built without plans, and the detailing was developed from the material on hand or that which was available." The house was constructed without nails, and Nakashima employed prefabricated industrialized materials like corrugated concrete panels for the roof, which were purchased cheaply as army surplus. It is this unlikely marriage between American vernacular influences and Japanese sensibilities, along with a willingness to embrace the engineered forms of the modern age, that lends Nakashima's work its beauty and vitality. But Nakashima believed that it was the methods underlying design, and not (what he considered to be) superficial forms, that imparted integrity. "Perhaps the greatest drawback in domestic architecture is that only the forms change," he said, "but the methods are the same, whereas the greatest need today is a creative study of the 'method'-not merely the mulling of forms on paper or the building of models, but a synthesis of the techniques of building within our present requirements."

Most of the designs that Nakashima used in his home were replicated for sale at his shop. One of his most popular designs was a diminutive three-legged chair called "Mira" after his daughter, for whom it was first fashioned. Nakashima's furniture had clear lines of reference to early American furniture, such as traditional Windsor chairs, captain's chairs, and trestle tables, but Nakashima developed those basic style tenets further and produced his own unique models, creating, for example, a Windsor-derived chaise longue, or retrofitting the bases of trestle tables to chairs. Nakashima also admired the simple domestic interiors of the American Shaker community, and joked that he was a "Japanese Shaker," seeing the confluence of aesthetics between the two cultures.
Over time, Nakashima became increasingly drawn to irregular shapes in wood, which he sought to preserve in his tabletops and chair arms; these irregularities became a hallmark of his work.

Just as he had been experimental with his furniture designs, Nakashima sought variety and contrast in the complex of buildings on his property. Only a few years after completing his home, he built a thin-shell, conoidal concrete studio with the help of famous engineers Paul Wedlinger and Mario Salvadori: The team created a soaring, arched ceiling that resembled a giant seashell. Nakashima also built a showroom and guesthouse, where visitors could view his furniture in a domestic environment. He added, over time, an expanded workshop, offices, an arts building, pool house, and a reception house to complete his compound. Maintaining Nakashima's home and business since his death, Mira Nakashima, who was trained in woodworking by her father, has developed her own line of furniture, some of it based on her father's original prototypes. Mira continues the evolution of design in which divisions between historical and modern are erased in the quest for structural integrity, innovative methods, and sculptural form.

LEFT: George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania. This interior shot of the pool house, completed in 1960, shows the building's dramatic plywood barrel-vaulted roof. Nakashima's French Walnut Minguren III table and bench are sheltered below. The stools to the right of the table are Kikkoman soy sauce kegs from a Nakashima-designed Kikkoman display in New York. (C) Don Freeman RIGHT: George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania A Conoid Room Divider, Conoid Cushion Chairs, and a Conoid Cross-legged End Table are in the foreground of this view of the Conoid Studio. (C) Don Freeman George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania A Conoid Room Divider, Conoid Cushion Chairs, and a Conoid Cross-legged End Table are in the foreground of this view of the Conoid Studio. (C) Don Freeman George Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania A Conoid Room Divider, Conoid Cushion Chairs, and a Conoid Cross-legged End Table are in the foreground of this view of the Conoid Studio. (C) Don FreemanGeorge Nakashima, New Hope, Pennsylvania A Conoid Room Divider, Conoid Cushion Chairs, and a Conoid Cross-legged End Table are in the foreground of this view of the Conoid Studio. (C) Don Freeman

Sigh -- we can't get enough of this place. If you're left craving more handmade house tours, pick up a copy of "Artists' Handmade Houses"!

Photo: (C) Don Freeman

Or check out:
House Tour: Industrial Designer Joe Doucet's NYC Apartment
House Tour: Vidal Sassoon's Modernist Bel Air Home
Celebrity Decorator Kevin Haley's Hollywood Hideout

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

5 Unusual Uses For Place Mats

DIY Life Staff — 2011-08-25T15:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Give your place mats a second life with these creative ideas.

Who knew? You can use place mats as a wall divider. Photo: Jonathon Fong Style

When I'm shopping for decor, I'm consistently drawn to the misfit aisle. You know, those $3.99 clearance bins overflowing with mismatched items like place mats and hand towels. And since I tend to buy stuff like this all the time, one of my favorite pastimes is figuring out what to do with a set of mismatched items.

Place mats are particularly fun to pull for these types of projects, since you can do so much with them. Next time you come across an odd number of clearance place mats, or maybe just a pair made with a lovely fabric, here are some crafty things you can do with them.

Unusual Use #1: Wall Decor and Dividers
With a few packages of clasps and an eye for arrangement, you can transform square or circular place mats into eye-catching wall dividers and displays. Just drill or punch a hole into the top and bottom of each place mat and link them by hanging hooks or clamps to binder rings or fishing swivels.

Bonus idea: Placed over a clear shower curtain lining, they can double as bathroom decor. Or try waterproof plastic place mats as an outdoor patio or garden wall. Check out your local hardware store or Ball Chain for the supplies you'll need to secure them at top and bottom.

Courtesy of: mmmcrafts

Unusual Use #2: Pillows and Tote Bags
Fabric place mats offer endless possibilities for decorative textiles. Shop the place mat section of home design stores (online too!) and build your own throw pillow at a fraction of the price by stitching the sides together. If the place mat has a complicated design that would be challenging to line up, consider covering a pillow with a bold, solid case and centering the place mat design for a crisp, eye-catching effect. One crafty blogger used Anthropologie place mats to make the stylish throw pillows to the left.

Bonus Idea: Cute cotton or polyester fabric place mats can make great tote bags too!

Unusual Use #3: Pops of Color

When it comes to place mat shapes, who says one size fits all? With a good pair of scissors, plastic or polypropylene place mats can be cut down to all shapes and sizes to make a counter top space more colorful and chic.

A couple of ideas:
- Cut out individual pieces of place mat to line the surface around your kitchen sink. Place everyday items like sponges or scrub brushes on top -- the fabric will absorb excess water and you can easily toss it in the washing machine as needed.
- Skip the boring contact paper and line your cabinets with modern prints.

Unusual Use #4: Decorative Odds and Ends
- Transform one sturdy plastic or cork backed-place mat into a whole stack of decorative drink coasters.
- Size down a plastic place mat into a custom-designer mouse pad.
- Play with place mats of different shapes, colors and textures to infuse a garden space with different designs beneath standard planter pots.
- Pick a simple place mat print and frame it with brightly-colored frames for instant wall art -- great for the kitchen!

Unusual Use #5: Quick Tips for Mastering Place Mat Chic
- If ordering online, always check the fabric and dimensions of the place mat before purchasing and make sure the fabric matches the project. Cotton fabric place mats are better for bags and pillow covers while plastic, lacquered and polypropylene place mats are better suited for cutting, crafting and cleaning.

Now, ever wonder what you could do with Velcro? Check out our story on unusual uses for the hook-and-loop tape.

And check out some of our favorite stories from around the web!
Exclusive Interviews and a Tour of the Showtime House 2010!
Banter Banners To Set The Mood
Troubleshoot Your Coffee Grinder
Money 101: How To Buy Your First Home

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Window Maintenance

DIY Life Staff — 2011-08-23T13:33:00+00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Living Rooms, Living Spaces

Windows feeling extra heavy? We swear they're not gaining weight. Replace those window sashes and they'll open and close smoothly.

Photo: Age Fotostock

Maintaining old windows takes time, but it's is worth the effort if you like historical features, prefer wood to the vinyl of most replacement windows or if you simply aren't ready to invest in new windows. Periodically, old windows will need new glazing compound, paint inside and out, and of course cleaning. But there's one repair that comes along so infrequently, you may not be familiar with it.

When an old double-hung window suddenly feels as though it weighs a ton, it's not because you skipped going to the gym for the past month. More likely, a sash cord has broken and you're no longer getting an assist from the weights and pulleys that are hidden behind the window jambs. To fix the problem, assemble the necessary tools and supplies and follow the steps listed below.

Tip: While the sash are removed and you have access to the weights, it's wise to replace all four sash cords so you won't have to face this problem again for many years.

Here's what you'll need for the project:
Tools
-Vacuum
-Screwdriver
-Pry bar
-Utility knife

Supplies
-Sash cord
-String
-Screw or nail

Joe Provey

Step 1: Remove the interior window stops. They are pieces of molding that help form the track in which the lower (inner) window sash slides. Removal involves taking out several screws and using a utility knife to break the layer of paint or varnish that may also be holding the stop in place. In some cases, a pry bar or putty knife may be helpful when removing the stops. Apply pressure carefully, however, so as not to damage the molding.

Joe Provey

Step 2: With the interior stops removed, pull the sash carefully from the window opening and disengage all sash cord, broken or otherwise.

Step 3: To remove the upper sash, pull out the parting stops or strips that separate the two sashes. They fit into a groove in the jamb and held in place by friction. With some windows, there are metal tracks, not parting strips, that you must remove.

Step 4: Make any necessary repairs to the sash while they are out, such as repairing badly cracked or missing glazing compound, repainting and cleaning.

Joe Provey

Step 5: Remove the access cover to the weight pocket. It is a wood panel that's usually held in place with a single screw.

Step 6: Then pull the weights from the pocket. Have a vacuum handy. After years of being enclosed in the wall, there will be some dust.

Step 7: Cut a piece of sash cord to the length of the old sash cords, plus about 6 inches. Use only sash cord; do not substitute clothesline or other rope products.

Step 8: Tie one end of the cord to a piece of string.

Joe Provey

Step 9: Tie the other end to a screw (or nail). It will serve as a weight.

Step 10: Then insert the screw into the opening above the pulley and lower the string. When the screw reaches the weight pocket opening, feed the tied-off end of the sash cord over the pulley and use the string to pull it down into the weight pocket.

Step 11: Remove the weighted string and tie the sash cord to the sash weight. Use a double half-hitch knot; it gets tighter as you pull on it and will prevent the weight from coming loose during operation.

Step 12: Put the weight back into the weight pocket.

Joe Provey

Step 13: Tie an overhand knot at the other end of the sash cord at the same point at which knots are tied for the other sash cords. Cut off excess cord about 1/4-in. from the knot. Replace other sash cords in the manner described above.

Step 14: Fit the knots into the groves and knot holes at the top of each sash edge. Then reinsert the sash into the window opening.

Step 15: Reinstall the parting strips and window stops.

Now that that's taken care of, tackle your other window woes:
Window Insulation Film
Weatherstripping Doors and Windows
The Daily Fix: Clean Mold From Window Tracks

By Joe Provey

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

High-Design Hack: Pouf Ottoman

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-06T10:18:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Living Rooms, Small Spaces

Love the look of a pouf ottoman but hate the $150+ price tag? This DIY is for you.

The Fabled Needle

Also known as the more sophisticated cousin of the bean bag chair, a pouf is one of the handiest pieces of furniture you can have. It can be called into use as seating, an ottoman or even a table (just top it with a tray). The one problem? A pouf can cost anywhere from $150-500. But, as Jen from The Fabled Needle shows us, a pouf is easy to DIY.

You'll need fabric, a white sheet (to reinforce and line the fabric) and stuffing. For the latter, you can use anything from spare foam packing peanuts to old (clean) clothes to fill the pouf. You'll also need to print out and follow this pouf template. Jen's main piece of advice is to have plenty of stuffing material, since the pouf needs much more than you probably think. For more on how she created her romantic pouf, visit The Fabled Needle.

For more DIY pouf ideas, check out...
DIY: Make A Knitted Pouf
Daily DIY: Create Your Own Moroccan Pouf
Create a custom ottoman

And because we could all use a quick refresher now and then, check out this video on how to sew straight stitches on your sewing machine...

How to Sew Straight on the Sewing Machine

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Curbspotting: Vintage Chair

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-03T13:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Living Rooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Essential Skills, Know-How

A vintage chair with "good bones" (but not much else going for it) becomes a knockout with a fresh coat of paint and a little reupholstering know-how.

Justin and Elise, flickr

This vintage chair by Drexel was facing a future in the dump when it was rescued just before the garbage truck came along. And though it had potential, you can see why someone might chuck it in the first place. The torn upholstery, scratched-up wood and general filthiness definitely overshadows its elegant frame.

Then Justin and Elise Snow came along. They cleaned it up, gave the wood a fresh coat of lime green paint and replaced the upholstery. Though it looks impressive and sounds intimidating, reupholstering a side chair is one of the easiest projects you can do. Really. All you really have to do is re-wrap the cushion with foam and then smooth over with the fabric of your choice, stapling both in place as you work. It's projects like this, or the hope of undertaking a project like this, that made me buy a staple gun in the first place.

Want a few more ideas for refreshing a vintage chair? Check out...
Minute Makeover: A DIY Accent Chair
Flea market chair gets a makeover
Thrifted task chair gets a new look

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Architectural Inspiration: Daylighting

Brie Dyas — 2011-05-25T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Makeovers & Inspiration, Living Rooms, Small Spaces, Living Spaces, Experts

If you plan on renovating this summer, there's new reason to rethink window placement: Research has shown that daylighting (an official-sounding term that refers to maximizing the natural light in a space) can make a room feel more inviting and you more productive. Also, it looks great. See for yourself with these amazing projects by the masters of daylighting, KSS Architects.

KSS Architects; Taylor Photo

Let me ask you: Which space is more appealing to you, the left or the right? If you answered "the right" (I'm guessing 100% of you did), you just learned the core principle of daylighting: Maximizing the light through windows and details. KSS Architects completely transformed West Chester University's 25 University Place building by opening up the ceiling and adding a high row of windows. But while daylighting might be associated with windows, a neutral color palette and unobtrusive lighting are also ways to boost the bright factor.

Your takeaway: Blonde wood accents, neutral flooring and discrete overhead lighting (check out the bent-arm lamps) can be just as effective as adding windows.

KSS Architects; Taylor Photo

This project really sold me on the power of daylighting. Here is the dramatic before and after of the basketball court at New Jersey City University's University Academy Charter School, another KSS project. The building had a nice big window, but obviously little charm (an understatement). KSS kept the brickwork but did something that I thought was interesting: Instead of repainting the walls white for a uniform look, they chose to strip the paint to reveal the natural hue of the brick.

Your takeaway: While white paint tends to make a space feel larger, sometimes it's best to expose the original finish of a high-quality material.

KSS Architects; Doug Snower Photographer

At Lawrence University's Warch Campus Center, KSS added Mondrian-esque windows and filled the space with brushed metal accents (which gently reflect light without scattering intense beams of sun all over the place). Like the 25 University Place project, neutral wood elements punctuate the room. To make the juxtaposition less jarring, stone tiles in both browns and grays were installed on the floor.

Your takeaway: Brushed nickel accents give you the gleam of metal without the upkeep (no worries about smudges). To integrate it into a space that has a lot of wood, opt for a natural stone tile that has bits of both hues.

Want more ideas for brightening up your home? Check out...
Easy Ways to Brighten the Kitchen and Living Room ... - ShelterPop
11 ways to brighten a room - DIY Life
10 Things You Can Do (Right Now!) to Brighten Your Home - Shelterpop

And to see how you can quickly boost the light in any room, watch this...

How to Brighten Up Your Rooms

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Magnetic Paint Gallery Wall

Brie Dyas — 2011-05-09T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Bye-bye tacks and nails...a new magnetic paint allows you to stick up art without damaging your walls. Our friends at ReadyMade show us how it's done.

Sherry Griffin, ReadyMade

Magnetic paint has been around for a little while, but I'm only now seeing it being used in really sophisticated ways. Like this installation at the gallery r20thCentury, which features posters and pamphlets displayed on the wall using rare-earth magnets. (Why rare earth? Because it's world away stronger than any alphabet magnet you can find.)

Sherry Griffin, ReadyMade

For the strongest effect, use three coats of the magnetic paint. While you can paint over it and still get the magnetic benefit, I've heard that two coats are the max for the second color coat. (And even then, it gets a little weak.)

champagnechic, Flickr

Magnetic paint is ideal for a childs' room. (Just think, no unsightly holes made by tacks!) Here, it's used to repurpose a mirror into a message board. What's even more remarkable is that the designer finished the project with a topcoat of pink chalkboard paint. Love this idea.

Want more ideas for how to use magnetic elements in your decor? Check out...
10 Creative Uses for Magnets - DIY Life
Making magnets from flat glass marbles - DIY Life
New Gorillapod uses rare earth magnets, sticks to your car

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Fireplace Ideas For Spring and Summer

Nikki Pepper — 2011-04-29T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Living Spaces

Just because it's warming up doesn't mean your fireplace should be concealed. Here's how to showcase it in the off season.

Every day that the weather gets warmer we're lightening things up in every way we can. So we don't blame you if just looking at your fireplace makes you sweat. But don't fear -- the stunning rooms at the 2011 Kips Bay Showhouse showed off some pretty perfect-looking fireplaces that added a tremendous amount of glitz to each room without ever lighting up.

So look to them for inspiration and take advantage of the architectural element -- even during its off season.

Left: Amanda Nisbet Design, Inc. Right: Kemble Interiors. Kips Bay Showhouse. Photo: Courtesy of Nikki Pepper

Fireplace Idea #1: Paint
We're not just talking a solid coat or two. Have fun. Take that brush and go wild. (As long as the mantle is properly covered, that is.) Take a tip from this oh-so-pink fireplace by Amanda Nisbet Design and get creative with haphazard brush strokes. It creates a lively patterned effect that really wakes up this paneled backdrop.

Fireplace Idea #2: Mirror the Mantle
Adding small, square mirrors to the face of the fireplace surround easily brightens and livens up the space. Just look at the effect of Kemble Interiors' fireplace. And it's so easy to do! Pick up some mirrors at a craft store and get to work.

Robert Stilin at Kips Bay Showroom. Photo: Courtesy of Nikki Pepper

Fireplace Idea #3: Build Out
A thin mantle -- or maybe just an ugly, outdated fireplace -- cramping your room's style? Take on the project and make it worthy of display. Use MDF to copy this look for a fireplace surround makeover. The Robert Stilin photo above has a sleek, modern look that can easily transform an old, neglected design.

Left: Jeff Lincoln Interiors. Right: Matthew Patrick Smyth, Inc. Kips Bay Showroom. Photo: Courtesy of Nikki Pepper

Fireplace Idea #4: Decorate Above
If you truly don't want to highlight your fireplace, follow the lead of Jeff Lincoln Interiors and Matthew Patrick Smyth and go above and beyond while decorating around the hearth. Decorating the mantle takes the focus off of the fireplace. A promising piece: A super decorative mirror. It will draw the eye up and across. Finish off the look by pulling out your best decorative items and displaying them on the mantle.

Looking for more ways to get your home ready for spring? Check out...
Celebrate Spring at Home like Eva Mendes
Spring Trend: We're Seeing Stripes
Spring Gardening: Get Ready

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Q&A With Sir James Dyson

DIY Life Staff — 2011-04-13T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Know-How, Living Spaces

How many industrial designers do you know that are also knights? (Or knights that moonlight as revolutionary vacuum designers?) Obviously, Sir James Dyson is one of kind.

Sir James Dyson and his famous small multiple cyclones. Photos: Dyson.

When one of our writers' Dyson vacuum lost its suction, she scheduled an interview with Sir James Dyson himself. But after solving the problem with a patient customer service rep, she ended up using the interview to get a little history on one of the biggest names in cleaning.

DIY Life: Has anyone ever challenged your famous claim that the Dyson never loses suction?

James Dyson: They've tried. When I first started out, no one in the industry would give me the time of day. Bags were their bread and butter. But people want technology that works. This proved a rude awakening to our competitors, who now try to copy our technology.

DIY Life: When you were getting the patent on the first Dyson vacuum, were you required to prove your claim in any way?

James Dyson: The patent process can be long and expensive. Starting Dyson nearly bankrupted me. In order to get a patent, the idea must be unique. You must prove the technology is new. That's the heart of what we do -- engineer technology that is new and better. We now have 1,300 patents on over 300 machines, a far cry from where we started.

DIY Life: There are so many different Dyson models. Does the amount of suction vary from machine to machine?

James Dyson: It is helpful to understand how suction power is measured. Other vacuums measure suction power based on the number of amps in a machine. This is simply the amount of energy something takes in, not what a machine does with that energy. We measure performance by how much our vacuums pick up, and this powerful suction remains constant over time.

DIY Life: I was surprised to hear from the first technician I spoke with that if I wasn't able to clear the blockage on my own, I'd need to bring my vacuum to a Dyson repair shop -- and a suction problem is not covered under warranty.

James Dyson: The machines are designed so that if a blockage does occur, it can be easily removed -- either on your own or with a little coaching. It's not often a machine goes in for repair. In fact, around 85 percent of inquiries can be resolved over the phone or online by our customer care team.

DIY Life: What's the one "dream product" you wish you could figure out a way to invent?

James Dyson: We are always working on new technology. And not just vacuums. Motors are a big part of what we do. Our digital motor took nearly 10 years to make and we have over 60 engineers dedicated to making it faster and more efficient, so our machines can be. The motor powers the Airblade hand dryer and our latest cordless machines, the Digital Slim.

As for me and my Dyson DC14, we're still going strong - and the super suction I'd come to expect is back in action.

By Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Restore Your Dyson's Suction

Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien — 2011-04-13T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

There are few things that can make you crazier than vacuuming with a machine that's lost its suction. Here's how one writer dealt.

Unstoppable suction? Photo: Dyson.

I've been a huge Dyson fan ever since I adopted my Dyson DC14 vacuum a few years back. It was everything I'd heard it would be -- the powerhouse bagless vacuum that never loses suction. And for a long time, everything was smooth and strong until one day the suction seemed to give out. How could this be? After all, the company prides itself on saying that their vacuums never lose suction.

So we reached out directly to the man himself, Sir James Dyson, to see what he could do. But before we were connected to him, we were asked to go directly through customer service to see if they could fix the problem. Here's what happened:

The First Try: I couldn't figure out how to open the part of my Dyson that the Dyson rep was directing me to do. By the end of the conversation, he'd told me my only other recourse was to bring the vacuum to a local Dyson repair shop where it would cost me $50 to fix. I felt defeated.

Next Time Around: The next Dyson representative I spoke with stayed on the phone with me for close to an hour. When I couldn't follow her steps, she'd offer up an alternative route as I worked around my vacuum, looking to locate the source of the blockage. With her help, I found the culprit! It was a mash of shredded paper and dirt stuck in a tube on the lower end of my vacuum. As soon as I pulled it out, the suction went back to full steam. Success!

If you're having a similar problem with your Dyson's suction, try these tips before calling customer service:

Tip #1: Clean the Filters: One big lesson I learned through this, you have to upkeep your filters. I had (ahem) never cleaned the filters in my Dyson vacuum (we're talking years, here.) Regularly cleaning your vacuum's filters does help ensure that blockages don't build up inside. If you've got a new machine, learn from my mistake and start showing that vacuum TLC sooner than later.

Tip #2: Blow Air Into the Vacuum: I learned a cool upkeep tip that I'm going to follow to keep my Dyson going strong. On occasion, blowing cool air from your hair dryer into the cyclone helps clear it of debris. Here's what to do: Simply remove the cyclone from the clear bin by opening the base as if you were emptying the debris into the trash. Press the release button where the cyclone meets the bin to separate the cyclone from the clear bin. Blow cool air into the circular opening at the bottom of the cyclone using the cool-shot on a hair dryer or a can of compressed air. Some of the debris will blow out of the shroud. Tap on the side of the cyclone and the remainder of dust will fall out the bottom.

Now -- want to see what happened when I spoke to James Dyson himself? Check out the interview!

By Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

How to Affordably Frame Large Prints

DIY Life Staff — 2011-04-12T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Living Spaces

Don't limit your art options to what can fit inside a standard frame -- you can go beyond the 8"x10" without going broke.

Mercie Ghimire Photography

Sometimes when you stumble upon art that comes in a big package, you shrink from the purchase, for fear that the framing will cost more than the art. But no fear -- there are other, more affordable options.

How to Frame a Large Picture: Supersize and Put Behind Plexiglass Blogger Mercie Ghimire of A Lovely Evening turned a 2"x4" inch mini Instax photo print into a giant 3'x5' print in her living room. She worked with a local framer and had them create a high-res scan of the photograph and then asked them to glue the enlarged photo on 1/4" thick gator board and glue 1/8" plexiglass on top of that. So the photo is free-floating -- there is no actual frame. The framer add a piece of beveled block on the back to make it easy to hang this 40 pound piece of art on the wall.

Photo: ReFrame

How to Frame a Large Picture: ReFrame It
Check out ReFrame's alternative framing solutions for hanging up poster-size prints. The frames are glassless but they're an affordable way to hang up a poster or large print for that cool gallery look. And the frames come in multiple sizes and three finishes -- natural, white, or black -- to suit your style.

How to Frame a Large Picture: Use a Ledge: Foam-core backing is another affordable solution for prints of non-standard sizes. Use spray adhesive to mount your print on foam core, which will make them sturdy enough to stand up on their own (and not bend.) Then you can place your print on a picture ledge, which gives you the flexibility of swapping out prints easily when you want a new look.

Plywerk

How to Frame a Large Picture: Attach It to Wood: Plywerk makes blank panels from sustainably harvested wood, with a special pH neutral adhesive, for hanging prints of all sizes. You can also use their digital reproduction service to reproduce a one-of-a-kind print and have the copy attached to a Plywerk panel.

Design Sponge

How to Frame a Large Picture: DIY It!
We spotted this great DIY project on Design Sponge. Blogger Kimba of A Soft Place to Land created a DIY frame for an oversized map using door frame molding, corner blocks, and paint. How clever!

Depending on the print, another alternative is cutting up a large print to display in multiple smaller frames. That's something I'm considering for a gigantic blueprint I've been trying to tackle -- creating a grid of frames each displaying a piece of the blueprint.

Tip: Found a vintage frame that's the perfect size, but it's empty? Here's how to makeover an empty frame.

By Jen Jafarzadeh L'Italien

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

The Neat Way to Paint Double-Hung Windows

Joe Provey — 2011-04-07T11:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Exteriors & Facades, Living Spaces, Outdoors

Painting windows seems like something you could wing. But if you want to avoid a mess, painting in the proper sequence is key. Here's how:

Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Nothing slows a painting job down like having to touch up brush smears, splatters, and spots you accidentally skipped. But the secret to avoiding these problems is as easy as following orders.

Painting a double-hung window is a case in point. A double-hung window is the kind with two sashes, one mounted over the other. But before you can understand the proper sequence for painting a double-hung, you should be familiar with the window's different parts.

Getty Images/AOL

Skill Level
Interior painting is a skill that everyone can do. If you don't have a steady hand, there's always masking tape.

Tools and Supplies
You'll need a drop cloth, fine sand paper or sanding sponge, a sash brush, and a good trim paint. I prefer latex semi-gloss enamel. It's not too shiny but cleans easily.

Preparation:
First remove all window hardware. Then lightly sand all surfaces to ensure good paint adhesion. Clean up any dust and wash all surfaces with water and a mild detergent.

Instructions:
After you've completed your preparation:

1. Raise the lower sash as high as it will go. Then lower the upper sash. This will expose the bottom rail of the upper sash that's hidden from sight when the window is closed. (Don't be surprised to find this rail is a different color than the rest of the sash! Many DIY-ers neglect to paint it.)

2. Paint as much of the bottom of the upper sash as you can reach -- at least a few inches -- including the non-exposed bottom rail.

3. Next, return the sashes to their normal positions, leaving them open a little at top and bottom. Finish painting the upper sash, working from muntins and the inner sash edges to the sash face. Then paint the lower sash.

4. With both sashes painted, move on to the jambs. I try to paint them in a clockwise order every time because it helps me avoid skipping areas. Take care not to get paint inside the channels in which the sash slide, or you may end up with window that's difficult or impossible to open.

5. Next, paint the casing and apron (moldings that frame the window). Begin with the outer edges, and then move on to the faces. This will minimize drips.

6. Finish up by painting the stool, the ledge molding that extends from the window's sill.

Now you've got an evenly-painted window with (hopefully!) not much of a mess left. All that's left to do is sit back and enjoy the view.

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

How to Paint Trim? First, Swallow Your Fear

Jaime Derringer — 2011-03-28T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: home decor, painting, Living Rooms, Dining Rooms, Living Spaces

When it comes to beautiful old trim, it's hard to cover it in paint. But sometimes it makes sense.

You bought an older house. You love it. It has character, it has charm. It has ornate baseboards, trim and moldings -- all original wood. But what if you aren't such a big fan of wood trim? What if you wanted to paint it another color? Would it look brighter and fresher with a few coats of white paint, or would you be ruining a piece of your home's history?

Photo: arsheffield, Flickr

I read Nicole Balch's Making It Lovely blog and have been following her ever since she bought her cute little 1910 bungalow in Oak Park, Illinois. She recently posted about her decision to paint her untouched original wood trim white.

It was a controversial decision. Many commenters on her blog took one side or the other. Some felt that it was sacrilegious to touch the original wood, while others were quick to whip out a paint brush and go to town.

"Painted wood trim, no matter how much you agonize over the color and paint it perfectly, is just never as special as the original wood," commented one person who objected to her decision.

"it's your home in the end, so do whatever makes you happy," said another more supportive commenter.

I asked Balch to tell me a little more about how she made the decision. It was a difficult one for her. Her Craftsman bungalow was originally a 2-bedroom/1-bath house, and the attic was converted in the 1960s or 70s to add more bedrooms and another bath. When they moved in three years ago, she was in the mindset that the trim was going to remain as is. She recalls thinking "this house has been here since 1910 with its natural wood in tact. I'm not going to be the one to change it."

However, after years of decorating around the wood trim and trying her hardest to live with it, she gave in to her desire for white trim. "We're going to be here for a while, and I want to be happy with the way my home looks...I've always liked the look of white trim more than stained wood." Ultimately, she needed to make the right decorating decision for her since she is the one who has to look at it ever day. "This is where my family actually lives, not a historical time capsule," she wrote on her blog.

A few things influenced her decision. First, the trim wasn't in the best shape. There were signs of wear and tear that would be easier to hide and freshen up with a few coats of white paint. Also, the wood itself is fir and paint-grade quality. Perhaps she would have reconsidered had her trim been flawless mahogany?

Nicole's dining room before and after. Photos: Nicole Balch

But when she first put that paintbrush to wood, was she sure she'd made the right decision? "I was 97% sure...but that 3% of doubt had my stomach in knots. What if I didn't like it? What if I was ruining my house or driving it's value down?"

I'm sure we would all have had the same doubts. After 15 hours, one coat of primer and two coats of paint, Balch can happily say that she made the right choice. She says she doesn't mind the nay-sayers: "[At first] it can be hard to move past worrying about what other people will think, especially the hypothetical future people that may live in your home after you. The best way to approach it is to think about what will make you happy. If you really love the look of painted trim and the natural wood isn't doing it for you, go ahead and pick up that paint brush."

After all, it's you who lives there.

Need more decorating help? Don't miss:
Great Walls Without Paint
How to Think Like An Interior Designer
Decorating Styles 101: Comfy and Casual

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

How I Lost Money Painting My House

Diane Petty BA, LLB — 2011-03-25T13:19:00+00:00

Filed under: Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Living Rooms, Essential Skills, Know-How, Living Spaces

Our writer tried to be thrifty and ended up losing $1,000. Here's how to avoid the same fate.

I once had the brilliant idea that I could paint the interior of our rental condo myself. We were between tenants and the walls needed some freshening up before we could rent it again. The place was only 1500 square feet. How hard could it be?

Photo: Alamy

My husband assured me it would be better to hire a painting company to do the job. They have the proper tools and sprayers and ladders. They have experienced painters. They have insurance.

I would have no part of it. I was raised to be self-sufficient and frugal. Why should I pay someone to do something I could do myself?

My husband shook his head at me with a knowing look in his eyes and drove me to the paint store. We bought gallons of white paint, brushes, rollers, pans, tape, drop cloths, rags, spackle and paint remover. Fortunately we already had a ladder.

We started our painting project early one Saturday morning. A small bedroom would be our first room, just to get a feel for what we were doing. We removed all of the window blinds, light switches and outlet covers. We dusted the window sills and door frames. We vacuumed the rug. We took a sponge with soapy water and scrubbed the baseboards and window tracks. We filled in all the picture-hook holes with spackle and waited for them to dry. Finally we were ready to paint!

Well, not exactly. I forgot we still had to tape around the door handles, the door frames, the baseboards and the closet doors. Oops, we needed to remove that closet system too. Taping takes a long time. Just when you think you are making progress, you realize the tape is slightly crooked and you have to start over from scratch.

When we finally started to roll the paint onto the walls, we moved quite quickly. The result looked great and I was proud we had done it ourselves. And it only took four hours. Then, my husband reminded me that we still had to do a second coat. And, we had only painted one small room. And the ceilings in the living room were 25 feet tall. Maybe this wasn't such a good idea?

As we had full-time jobs, we were only able to paint on weekends. It took us three weekends to complete the project. We gave up on the living room ceilings and decided to leave them alone. They were simply too high to reach.

The overall result was pretty good. The condo looked fresh and clean; it rented quickly. Then my wonderful husband gave me that knowing look and told me we had just lost about $1,000 by doing the job ourselves. How could that be?

Apparently a professional painter with sprayers and a couple of helpers could have completed the job in two days at a cost of $1,450. Since it took us three weeks to complete the paint job, those were three weeks we could not collect rent on an empty condo. At $3,200 per month in rent, we lost $2,400 during those three vacant weeks. Add in the $50 we spent on supplies that a professional already has and we were out $1000. $2,400 (lost rent) + $100 (supplies) - $1,500 (hire painters) = $1,000. And this equation assumes our time is worth nothing.

Live and learn. Now we only hire professional painters.

Still have painting on the brain? Check out...
How to Dispose of Leftover Paint
Painting Tips: From Choosing a Color to Tackling the Ceiling

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Hollow-Core Door Makeover

Houzz — 2011-03-22T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

See this drab hollow-core door transform into a black and white showstopper, complete with fancy knocker!

Check out this creative DIY project from our friends at Houzz!

My photographer friend Christina had me over to her house recently. Naturally, she inquired as to any ideas I could offer to make her home a bit nicer. Upon entry, I wanted to say, "Well, you can start by tossing those nasty hollow-core doors out the window, then setting them on fire." But instead, the nice part of me decided to offer up a do-it-yourself upgrade - the same nice part that got tricked into staying and actually doing it. One protein bar, two pitchers of ice water and about 6 hours of conversation later, here's how we took Christina's 40-year-old, contractor-grade, hollow-core door from eyesore to showstopper:

Houzz

While I recommend this project for hollow-core doors, it works just as well on those made from solid wood. High contrast offers up the most impact. Black and white is classic and goes with everything, but playing up two drastically different shades of your room's wall color works just as well.

Check out Houzz's step-by-step hollow-core door transformation to make this DIY happen in your home!

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

House Trends: Is This the End of the Living Room?

Charles & Hudson — 2011-03-21T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Living Spaces

A new report on house trends speculates that the living room could become obsolete by 2015.

Check out this story from our friends at Charles & Hudson:

The National Association of Home Builders recently released a special report that details several home features that will likely become the norm by 2015.

A Few Surprises
One of the more unexpected summaries in the report? A theory that living rooms will vanish, or be incorporated into other rooms. Of course, applying this report to a home depends heavily on the definition of a living room. We grew up with living rooms as formal spaces that were usually reserved for company--they didn't have televisions, and typically had nicer furnishings and decor.

Will the living room be a thing of the past? Photo: Getty.

"An overwhelming majority of respondents do not expect the living room to stay in its current room," according to the NAHB report. "Instead, more than half (52 percent) expect the living room to merge with other spaces in the home, while 30 percent expect it to vanish to save on square footage."

Great Room Grows Bigger
The report predicts that an all-encompassing Great Room will likely replace the living room. Experts predict this will be a more open space that will encompass a kitchen, family and living rooms with few barriers to accessing each area.

Would You Miss Your Living Room?
Are you attached to the concept of a living room and refuse to give it up, even to save on square footage? Or do you feel this trend is part of the natural evolution of home design based on our economy, lifestyles and other defining factors?

We'd love to hear your thoughts!

And check out these other great stories from Charles & Hudson
Trend Watch: Hiding Kitchen Appliances Within Cabinetry
How To DIY With Small Children

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Home Style Upgrades on a Budget - DIY Links

Cheryl Thompson — 2011-03-04T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Kitchen & Bath, Big Projects, Makeovers & Inspiration, Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Small Spaces, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

Hack your way to sophisticated home style with these innovative, budget-friendly projects from around the web.

Marcus Design

Dorothy Draper Hollywood Regency furniture pieces can easily set you back thousands of dollars. But a trip to IKEA can garner you the materials to create a fabulous knockoff -- one that costs just a little more than $30. Nancy from Marcus Design has step-by-step instructions to transform an affordable, bland dresser into a gorgeous DIY showpiece.[Marcus Design via Ikea Hacker]

Apartment Therapy

MacGyver may have met his match in Ohdeedoh's Katie Steuernagle. With a few pieces of wood, vinyl strips and a concrete form, she whipped up an amazing DIY nightstand. The nailhead trim gives this DIY creation a high-end look -- for only $30! [Apartment Therapy]

DIY Network

Want a beautiful kitchen remodel without spending major cash? The key is to get the most out of inexpensive materials. Take for example this sleek kitchen island, which is crafted out of two-sandwiched IKEA cabinets topped off with butcher-block. The soda-fountain stools were online finds that were anchored into the floor. [DIY Network]

Better Homes & Gardens

Bookcases and storage cubes are simple pieces that can be converted into custom furniture creations. Turn stackable storage cubes into an entertainment center by screwing the cubes together and adding metal legs (pictured left). For a floating store-and-serve buffet, use wall anchors and mount bookcases horizontally (center). Also, you can transform a bookshelf into a bench by adding a cozy cushion and wooden furniture feet (right). [Better Homes & Gardens]

Nesting Place

Accent pieces don't have to be expensive to be beautiful. Add instant style to a room with this dramatic DIY sunburst mirror. Folded poster board, mirror and glue are the main materials used to create the pretty display. [Nesting Place]

Charles & Hudson

Think you can't paint bathroom tile? Think again. Using Glidden's Gripper Primer, the folks at Charles & Hudson easily upgraded dated dandelion tiles with a modern, high-gloss finish. [Charles & Hudson]

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Everyday Items Reimagined - DIY Links

Cheryl Thompson — 2011-02-25T12:15:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Home Offices, Living Spaces, Crafts & Celebrations

DIY projects don't need to be elaborate, back-breaking endeavors. Check out simple projects from around the web that repurpose everyday items into something fabulous.

Curbly

A beautiful headboard can make a big impact to any room. While there are plenty of store-bought options at your disposal, you can easily make your own headboard out of everyday materials. Wood, paint, upholstered panels, and doors are some of the many items you can use to craft grand headboards. [Curbly]

Apartment Therapy

Wooden pallets -- those flat, portable platforms used to transport goods -- are one of the most readily available, inexpensive DIY materials. Simply visit a local pallet company, and you can pick up hundreds of these platforms free. They can then be used to craft a unique, rustic wall. The process is simple, consisting of separating the wood planks from the pallets and using nails or glue to attach each plank onto the wall. [Mom and Her Drill via Apartment Therapy]

Apartment Therapy

For some it's hard to wrap their head around this concept: you don't need to spend a lot of money for statement furniture pieces. These plain, affordable IKEA cabinets are given a new look with an easy wallpaper application. [Apartment Therapy]

ShelterPop

For most homes, a desk is an essential piece of furniture. Before you buy one, check out creative ways you can craft a custom-make desk. ShelterPop features three DIY desks created from floating shelves, bookcases and cinderblocks (yes, the same cinderblocks you used in college). [ShelterPop]

Martha Stewart

Brighten up a room with mirrored furniture that won't break the bank. Upgrade a coffee table or end table by topping them with custom-cut mirror glass. [Martha Stewart]

Better Homes & Gardens

Take your bowls out of the kitchen and into the bedroom with these charming pendant lamps. Drill a hole in the bottom of the bowls and insert a halogen accent light. Use grosgrain ribbon and bows to dress up the cord. [Better Homes & Gardens]

Young House Love

Save money on artwork by painting large canvases with interior latex paint. This is an inexpensive way to add a splash of color to bland to walls. [Real Simple]

Young House Love may take top prize for best 15-minute DIY project. The adorable couple, Sherry and John, crafted a chic side table from a luggage rack and faux leather tray. Using a stroke of genius they attached the tray to the luggage rack with simple Command removable adhesive strips. [Young House Love]

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments

Radiant Floor Heating - Should You or Shouldn't You?

DIY Life Staff — 2011-02-17T11:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Living Rooms, Bedrooms, Dining Rooms, Home Offices, Small Spaces, Living Spaces

Is there a better way to heat your home? Radiant floor heating is a very viable option: it's clean, evenly distributed and energy-efficient.

It's the heart of winter and by now we're all familiar with it: the flaky, cracked skin that comes from being cooped up all day surrounded by dry air. The kinds of heating systems that most of us have -- forced-air systems (think furnaces and radiators) -- breed this kind of environment.

But radiant floor heating offers a very attractive alternative to the dusty vents and radiators we're used to. By installing plastic tubes underneath your actual flooring, your house gets warm from the ground up, and the heat is distributed throughout the house evenly and without the dryness and dust of forced air systems. Plus, they actually save energy by allowing you to turn down your thermostat a few degrees and still feel the same amount of coziness.

Would you make the switch?

SEE ALSO:
Cheap Ways to Heat Your Home
How to Heat Your Home Eco-Consciously (ShelterPop)

Permalink | Email this | Linking Blogs | Comments