DIY Life

The Trick to Wall Garden Success

Brie Dyas — 2011-06-10T18:15:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Exteriors & Facades, Essential Skills, Know-How

Creating a wall garden is more than just choosing planters and blooms. There's the whole matter of getting the planters on the wall. Here's the secret...

fmpgoh, flickr

Creating a wall garden is one of those ideas that seem simple on paper: Just drill into the wall using a masonry bit, pop in an anchor and a screw, then hang the planter. But once you have the drill in hand, it's a quick trip from confidence to anxiety. Questions come up. Let's go through them together.

Is my regular drill OK to use?
If you only have a handful of holes to make, it's a corded model that's at least 14.4V and you have a carbide-tipped bit, then yes. But if you want to mount more than three planters, only have a cordless drill or have to make big holes, then it pays off to rent a hammer drill. It will sound terrible when used, but it gets the job done.

What's this about anchors?
Anchors can be found in the "overwhelming" aisle of your local hardware store. Though they all pretty much due the same thing (reinforce a hole to make a screw fit extra securely), there are a staggering number of different anchor types. Generally, you can select one by wall material. Toggle bolts are good for cement blocks, lag shields for cement or stucco, concrete screws for concrete (surprise) or brick, and hammer-driven anchors (most types of walls, but better for light loads). For small pocket-type planters like the ones above, I'd go for a hammer-driven anchor.

Do I have to worry about studs?
As with most projects that involve hanging things on walls, yes. So, get out the stud finder. However, I should point out that I once got very cavalier and drilled right into a brick wall without bothering this step. The mailbox is still securely hanging in place.

On brick walls, should I drill between the bricks (into the mortar) or into the brick?
This usually ends up in a lively debate between DIY types. I'm in the "into the brick" camp. Though it takes longer and requires some extra effort, a hole drilled into brick tends to hold up better over time. Now, I've seen others drill right into the mortar without any problems. But if your mortar happens to be old and crumbly, moisture can get into the hole and weaken everything. And that's how you wake up one day to find your planter on the ground.

Want to know a little more about getting the right tools for this job? Check out...
Best Wall Anchors and How to Install Them
How To Get The Most From Your Stud Finder
Drilling into Concrete and Masonry

And for a clever way to store all those screws and anchors, watch this...

How to Organize and Store Nails and Screws

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Random Recast - New Uses for Aluminum Foil Day 3

Brie Dyas — 2011-05-18T10:15:00+00:00

Filed under: Crafts, Tools, Know-How

Welcome to the very first edition of Random Recast! Each week, Random Recast will feature a new-use-a-day for a common household item. Got any ideas you'd like to share? Leave a comment!

Yesterday, we learned how to make our own steamer using aluminum foil to bring clothes made from delicate fabrics back to life. Today, we're going to get a little craftier by using the kitchen staple to sharpen paper punches.

Photo: Cindy Kang

While punching about a hundred stars into card stock invitations, I noticed around the fiftieth punch that it took more and more effort to punch through the paper. By one hundred, my arm was sore. I thought I had a defective paper punch, but it turns out it just needed to be sharpened. Cindy Kang, event designer and the blogger behind Just The Little Things, uses aluminum foil (layered on top of a sheet of parchment paper) to do the job. The aluminum foil sharpens the punch, while the paper waxes it so that cutting through heavy paper is a breeze.

Want to catch up with this week's Random Recast? Check out...
Random Recast - New Uses for Aluminum Foil Day 2
Random Recast - New Uses For Aluminum Foil Day 1

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Looking for Cheap Tools? A New Way to Get a Bargain

Charles & Hudson — 2011-04-05T08:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Essential Skills, Know-How

Online sample sales aren't just for fashionistas and jetsetters. You can get tools online, on the cheap, with this new site.

Check out this story from our friends at Charles & Hudson:

In this economy (and don't even get us started on gas prices!), saving money is becoming increasingly important--and besides, who doesn't love a bargain? Finding discounted tools can be a great way to expand your collection without breaking the bank.

Get those tools on the cheap. Photo: Corbis.

As a starting point, you can always check with your favorite local hardware store to see what sales or specials they might be offering. After that, you can turn to the magic of the Internet to help you score a great bargain.

One such site? One Tool A Day, which offers just one tool for sale every day (hence the name.) Each tool is discounted a certain amount (excluding shipping), and a limited quantity are available. Today, for example, the site is offering a Ridgid CG-100 Micro Gas Sniffer, normally priced at $257.95 and discounted to $225. Of course, it's up to you to decide if your tool collection will be woefully incomplete without a gas sniffer--just call us the enablers!

Of course, as with any sort of bargain shopping, you'll want to make sure the deal isn't too good to be true. Do a little research on the tool and its brand to make sure you're not buying something that will fall apart after a few projects. With tool collections, it's all about quality over quantity--and if you can get a bargain, well, that's even better!

What are your thoughts on bargain tools? Have you found any good deals, or do you think tools should be an investment and not necessarily a discount find?

Now -- check out these other great pieces from Charles & Hudson:
Expert Tips On Starting A Lawn
The Simplest Way To Protect Your Home
Do You Clean During A Remodel?

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What You Need in Your First Tool Kit (and Why You Need It)

Amanda Waas — 2011-03-23T15:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Essential Skills, Know-How

Buying a pre-packaged tool set can lead to wasted money and unneeded tools. Instead, follow our writer's lead as she breaks down her first tool kit.

The tool kit, in all its glory. What's inside? Read on... Photo: Amanda Waas.

Some of you already have tool kits that could put Bob Vila to shame. Friends, this article does not apply to you -- but we do recommend you email it to any college students/new apartment dwellers/friends who aren't as naturally handy as you are. This is for those who keep their tool kits in the depths of the closet or in the Narnia known as underneath the kitchen sink. Even if it's not used every day, it should still contain everything you need! Here's a list of the essentials everyone should have in their arsenal, and why it matters.

Your first tool kit should have... a measuring tape.
So you ordered a new piece of furniture, but you didn't measure the space you were planning to put it in. Now it doesn't fit, and you have the awesome pleasure of bumping into it every morning on your way to the bathroom. This is a fate that could have been avoided had you overcome your laziness and pulled out the old tape measure before you bought the furniture. Lesson learned.

Your first tool kit should have... needle-nosed pliers: Electricians use these for cutting wires that are shoved in tight spaces. You can use them on teeny wires poking out of a lampshade or non-electrical accessories. And yes, to fix the broken clasp on the cheap necklaces you bought.

Your first tool kit should have... a box cutter: Put down the butterknife -- you need to stop dulling out your kitchen knives by opening your mail with them. The boxcutter is a great tool to keep handy. We promise: Your stress level will go down when you easily cut into your next package, instead of hacking at the mailing tape.

Your first tool kit should have... screwdrivers: You probably already know there are two types of screwdrivers: Phillips head and flat head. You should have both on-hand because you never know what type of screw you'll encounter. Whether you're going to tighten a loose door knob or attempt to put together a bookshelf, the screwdriver is probably going to be the item in your tool kit you'll get the most use out of.

Your first tool kit should have... a hammer and nails: You're probably not going to be doing much carpentry work, so the main use of the hammer and nails is going to come when you decide to buy something new to hang on your walls. Framed movie poster? Come on now. There are plenty of better options for wall art.

Your first tool kit should have... a level: Remember that time you hung up a painting and you got into a fight with your roommate/spouse about whether it was straight or not? You're perched on a second-rate step ladder and they're telling you things like, "A little higher on the left," and then, "Maybe a little higher on the right," followed by, "Um, maybe you should move it down?" The painting is either crooked or they are blind. You can avoid these Sunday afternoon arguments by picking up a level. It'll tell you how low or high the painting is and the bonus is that you don't have to have a conversation with your loved ones at all.

Your first tool kit should have... wire cutters: Since you can barely set the sleep timer on your TV, you're probably not going to be taking on any rewiring projects any time soon. But you should pick them up anyway. Why? Because you should approach your tool kit like you approach your love life: It's good to keep your options open.

Your first tool kit should have... a wrench: We promise, the first time you notice a loose nut and tweak it into place with your wrench, you'll feel infinitely proud -- and yes, embolded to take out that tool kit more often.

Now that you've assembled the perfect tool kit, you shouldn't have to pawn off all of your projects on assorted friends and loved ones. And if you're feeling ambitious, check out the must-have tools for 2011.

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Hammering Nails (and Not Your Thumb) - Reader Tip

Daniella Nicole — 2011-03-01T11:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Essential Skills, Know-How

Hammering nails without giving yourself a black thumb is a feat unto itself. One resourceful reader shows us how it's done.

Needle-nose pliers are the key to keeping your nail in place as you hammer. Photo: slambo_42, Flickr

One way to effectively hammer nails without accidentally hammering your thumb (ouch!) or dropping the nail on the floor (ugh!) is to use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the nail in place as you hammer.

Use the pointed tip of the pliers to grip the nail and hold it securely to the wall. While hollding the pliers, press your hand against the wall for leverage and a more stable grip. And if your hammer slips, it'll hit the metal pliers -- and not your fingers.

We want to hear your best DIY household tip related to cleaning, fixing, building or organizing. Head over to Seed.com to contribute your tip, and we may just buy it and publish it here!

Want to see another trick for hammering nails, especially in awkward spaces? Skip to :40 in the video below to see the cardboard method:

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Drilling into Concrete and Masonry

Mark Clement — 2011-02-28T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Essential Skills, Know-How

Drilling into concrete and masonry can be a disaster if you're not using the right tools. Here's some breakthrough advice on getting the job done right.

Getty Images

So here's a call I received once at the headquarters of MyFixitUpLife, where my wife Theresa and I offer insights into building, designing, and living through renovations as professionals and as a family. The call came from a friend who was having the darndest time trying to hang some shelves on a garage wall.

His was frustrated because the wall he was trying to drill into was made of concrete. Just as he'd seen me do on other projects, he picked up some masonry bits from the store for his cordless drill, but when he tried sinking holes in the wall the bits turned cherry red and left nary a mark on the concrete. He was at a loss and didn't know what to do.

The short answer is that drilling holes in concrete requires the right tools and bits. And, ironically, as they work together they don't "drill" in the same sense a wood bit does. What's happening when you use a concrete drill is that the tool and bit are pulverizing the concrete in front of the bit while the dust is getting pulled up and out of the hole by the flutes on the bit. This is why you'll see the term "hammer" on a tool that drills holes in concrete and masonry -- because hammering is what it's really doing.

There are two types of hammers for drilling concrete: A hammerdrill is for drilling small holes (roughly a half-inch or less) and a rotary hammer is for drilling large holes (roughly larger than a half-inch, depending on the tool). And while the rotary hammer, which is a professional tool, can also drill small holes, a hammerdrill can't drill large ones, so it's important to buy or rent the right tool for the job.

Drill/Hammerdrill

hammerdrillskit.co.cc

When people ask me to give a list of the five essential tools to have around the house or shop, an 18-volt drill/hammerdrill almost always makes the short list. All the majors make them (here's a Porter-Cable model at left as an example) and they're ideal for drilling small holes for small expansion anchors -- what some people call "moly bolts."

Drill in moly bolts for light-duty connections to concrete and masonry -- everything from hanging vinyl shutters from a stucco house to attaching metal shelf brackets to a concrete or block wall. We've had good performance over the years with Red Head Poly-Set anchors for chores like this. We've even had great luck using hammerdrills on plaster-on-block walls that are as hard as concrete.

NOTE: If your plaster is over lath (a thin, narrow strip of wood; knock, and if it sounds hollow and/or doesn't break your knuckle it's probably over lath), try drilling first in non-percussion mode with a hammerdrill bit to see if the bit will drill out the plaster. Using the drill in hammer (percussion) mode might blow out the plaster because there's nothing behind it but air.

What's particularly efficient about using a drill/hammerdrill is that you can use the same tool to drill the anchor hole, then drive the anchor (in this case a screw). Drill/hammerdrills are also a good go-to for drilling holes in concrete floors for metal thresholds.

The tool's impact mechanism (called a "gubbins" for tool geeks like me) works like two poker chips spinning against each other, causing vibration at high speeds. This tool isn't for all-day drilling and driving by any means, but it'll get the job done for smaller projects like hanging a light fixture on a brick house. The tool vibrates quite a bit and the sound it makes is pretty loud. The hole goes down, but you know the tool's working -- and so do your neighbors.

Rotary Hammer
The rotary hammer is the Rolls Royce of the concrete-drilling world. Oversimplifying it somewhat, they work like jackhammers. A piston drives the bit forward which pulverizes the concrete or stone in front of it more effectively and much more quietly than a hammerdrill. As a result, you can work faster and drill significantly larger holes with these tools.

Plumbers Plus

While we'd recommend renting them for most homeowners because they're both specialized and expensive tools (with their own dedicated and expensive bits) they are the go-to implement if you have to drill half-inch or larger holes. Say, for example, you're building a deck on a stone house or drilling a hole for a dryer vent in a block house. Rotary hammers come in many sizes from small to mondo so when you rent one make sure to tell the rental salesman exactly what you're doing so he can select the right hammer for you. At MyFixitUpLife headquarters, we've had good luck on the smaller end of the weight scale - about 12 pounds - for most of the concrete drilling we do on our professional job sites.

Some rotary hammers also come with a chipping function (again, think handheld jackhammer here). The effectiveness of this is commensurate with the size of the hammer you're using, but if you have to chip concrete for some reason - maybe for eliminating an old clothesline footing, an obsolete planter, or blob of concrete ancoring a fence post - you can break the concrete up using this tool.

So whether you plan to hang shelves or build a deck, whenever you come across concrete, the shortest path to success is using the right combination of bits and tools to get the job done right.

Mark Clement is a contractor and all-around DIY pro. See more of his advice and projects at MyFixItUpLife.com.

Here are some more tips from DIY Life about choosing the right drill:
In The Workshop: Cordless Drills
In The Workshop: Drill Bits
Drilling Masonry: Avoid Disaster with the Right Tools

Want to know more? Check out this video on drilling:

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Small Screws are My DIY Dilemma!

Jesse Schmitt — 2011-02-25T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Essential Skills, Know-How

Aren't those super small screws so annoying when you're trying to assemble furniture and accessories? We offer up a few tips for dealing with small screws when you're at your wit's end.

Small screws are one thing, but screws that are the size of a grain of rice? Now those are frustrating. Photo: gribley, Flickr

DIY Life reader Jesse Schmitt has had it *up to here* with the teeny tiny screws that come with his ready-to-assemble furniture. Jesse says:

It seems to me that everything that "requires some assembly" also requires the superhuman ability to carefully handle objects the size of your eyelash. And I don't know what perverse law of physics controls tiny objects, but they always manage not just to fall, but to fling themselves from your grasp into a shag rug or vat of lava or something. Some manufacturers are starting to include spare screws for people like me. But any given DIY project includes at least a 10-minute search-and-rescue operation for Tiny Part 00b-4X.

We hear you, Jesse! In fact, we're excited to announce our new column here on DIY Life; we're calling it "My DIY Dilemma" -- and your little DIY nuisance is our first topic!

In the following video, DIYer Danny Lipford and his right hand man show you two cool tricks for working with very small screws. They're both simple and effective. Try them out and tell us what you think!

Got a DIY Dilemma you want us to address in a future post? Write to DIYLifeMail@aol.com!

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Snow Blowers: Repair and Troubleshooting

Mark Clement — 2011-02-01T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Exteriors & Facades, Know-How, Outdoors

As winter pounds down with record snowfalls, here are tips to make sure your snow blower is in top shape.

Photo: Uriah Welcome, Flickr

If you live in an area where it snows, cleaning up and digging out after a heavy snowfall is a simple fact of life. Sure, shoveling is the traditional way to get the job done, but your back, shoulders, and legs may be pleading for an easier alternative. Plus, with record snowfall pounding many cities this winter, a snow blower is starting to look like a pretty good item to have -- even to the most enthusiastic shovelers.

SNOW BLOWER TYPES
Snow blowers come in three varieties: electric, single-stage and two-stage.

Photo: Troy-Bilt

Electric Throwers
Electric snow blowers are smaller and more compact than their gas-powered counterparts. Their design makes them easy to maneuver and ideal for clearing lighter snowfalls on smooth, paved surfaces, as well as small areas like walkways, patios and driveway aprons. When it snows a foot or more and you've got some serious real estate to clear, opt for single-stage and two-stage units.

Single-Stage Throwers
A single-stage unit is powered by a gasoline engine, but propelled by you. In other words, you push it into the snow; it throws the snow. They are particularly adept at clearing heavy, wet snow into tall piles. If you live in light-snow area, save money by buying a single-stage machine. It's smaller and lighter than two-stage units, which are more effective in heavy and packed snow.

Two-Stage Throwers
Two-stage units, like the Troy-Bilt Storm 2620, are the big dogs of winter. Their larger gasoline engines drive a bigger auger, eject more snow and drive the wheels in forward and reverse. They're heavier and take up more space when not in use. If you've got ground to cover, they've got the muscle to make it happen.

Photo: Jronaldlee, Flickr

SNOW BLOWER REPAIR ISSUES
Even though we call on snow blowers to dig us out of trouble, they -- like any tool or machine -- can get thrown for a loop if things go wrong. Here's how to fix the common hiccups that occur with snow blowers:

Engine Fails to Start
If your snow blower won't start (and you've primed the motor), check to make sure the choke is in the proper position, the safety key is fully inserted, the tank has gasoline, and the spark plug isn't fouled. Nothing out of order? The problem may be that the fuel sitting in the tank has gone stale. Gas goes bad within a few months, so top the tank off with new gasoline. If the tank is full of gas, drain the tank and re-fill with fresh fuel.

The Engine Stops Running
So everything is going along swimmingly and you're trundling down the driveway throwing snow like a pro ... when the engine loses power. First, check that the spark plug wire is connected securely to the spark plug. If that doesn't solve the problem, check the gas cap. The gas cap is vented and if it's blocked by snow or ice the unit will lose power. Clear away anything that's there and give it another go.

If your snow blower continues to jam or stutter, it's best to slow down so that the machine does not take on more snow than it can handle. Photo: Nugefishes, Flickr

Failure to Discharge Snow
There are several reasons that your snow thrower's discharge chute can clog up. One culprit can be the snow itself. Moving slushy snow through a snow thrower's auger is kind of like making a snow ball in your hands. Moving and compacting the snow turns it to ice, which in turn clogs the chute. To fix, use the tool's clean-out tool (if it doesn't have one, try a stick) to remove the obstruction from the chute. Make sure to shut the unit down and disconnect the spark plug before doing this. Lastly, there could be a foreign object lodged in the auger. Again, power the unit down and remove the obstruction.

Unit Stutters and Grabs in Operation
Snow throwers work most efficiently when the blade can ride across the ground and get under the snow. But sidewalks often are riddled with dimples, pockmarks and cracks. If the machine is moving too fast when it hits an irregularity, it can bounce up a little and trap snow under the blade. This action causes the machine to jerk or stutter. The cure is usually to slow down.

If the irregularity is big, like an uneven sidewalk slab, the blade simply jams into it and the machine can't move forward at all. Again, the key to forward progress is to slow down. The blade maintains contact with the ground, doesn't take on more snow than it can handle, and as a result efficiently captures and ejects the snow.

KEEP YOUR SHOVEL
Even with a snow thrower in your possession, you shouldn't ditch your shovel just yet. You still need it to attack the steps and nooks that the muscled-up snow thrower can't go.

SEE ALSO:
What to Do After a Blizzard
Snowpacalypse: Tips to Keep Your Home Safe [Apartment Therapy]

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Find a Wall Stud Without a Stud Finder

Joe Provey — 2011-01-20T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How, Living Spaces

Looking for a stud? Don't stress! Even if you don't own a handy stud finder, you can still locate these elusive fasteners with ease.

Before installing a stair rail bracket, you'll have to find a stud first. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

When it comes to hanging heavy items on a wall, you should aim to drive the screws into studs located in the wall's framing. These studs can hold more weight than plain drywall can, so this technique provides an important, safe and secure hold. There's one caveat: finding these elusive wall studs can be a frustrating challenge. The easiest way to locate them is to use an electronic or magnetic stud finder. These tools will flash or beep whenever you get near a stud. Also, wall anchors will allow you sometimes to bypass this hunting exercise all together.

If you don't own an anchor or stud finder (or the desire to ante up the cash for one), here's how to locate sly wall studs without spending a penny.

Look for clues to where hidden drywall fasteners are.
Search for slightly raised nailheads; studs usually lie directly behind these fasteners. Also, you can press on the drywall. If it gives, move a few inches away and press again. When you press and the wall doesn't give at all, you've probably located a stud. A third approach is to tap on the drywall and listen for changes in tone. A hollow sound means you're cold. A solid sound means you've most likely found a stud, or you're close to one.

Look for clues as to where a stud may be hidden, then drill a trial hole. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Drill a test hole.
To ensure that you have indeed found a wall stud, create a no-cost stud finder. Cut 20 inches of a wire hanger and bend it so that there are two 5-inch legs in a 90-degree configuration.

Use linesman pliers to cut a wire hanger. Then bend a 5-inch leg at each end. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Insert one end into the hole you've drilled. Grasp the other leg of the wire and turn, as if it were a doorknob. If you hit something solid, turn the finder in the other direction to see if you hit it again. If you do, it's probably a stud. Mark the spot on the coat hanger that's sticking out of the wall. Withdraw the hanger and you'll have an approximate measure of the distance between the stud and the hole.

If you hit a stud, withdraw the tool and gauge the distance of the stud from the hole. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

If you turn the stud finder and don't hit a stud; move six inches to either side of your test hole. Drill another hole, and try again. This time you should hit a stud, unless the studs in your home are spaced 24 inches apart instead of the standard 16 inches apart. In this case, repeat the above directions.

Mark the stud locations.
Once you locate one stud, use it to find the location of the other studs along the length of the wall. In most cases you'll find the other studs spaced in increments of 16 inches away from the center of the first stud. Finish up by patching the hole(s) and touching up with paint so that it matches the rest of the wall.

When using this method, you may end up with several holes in the wall that will need to be patched. While these are fairly easy to conceal, you can also opt to drill your trial holes in an inconspicuous spot, such as near the base molding.

Psst...Our sister site ShelterPop is hosting a design challenge -- go vote for your favorite student-designed product!

SEE ALSO:
Best Wall Anchors and How to Install Them
Stud Finder: Must-Have Tools (This Old House)

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Circular Saws - In the Workshop

Joe Provey — 2011-01-05T15:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

For precision cuts in lumber and other rigid materials, take a circular saw for a spin.

Photo: Oisin Duke, Flickr

A circular saw is used for making straight square or bevel cuts in many common building materials, including lumber, plywood, and masonry. You can use it to cut an opening in your roof to install a skylight, or you can use it to cut shelving for a bookcase. You can even use it, with the appropriate blade, to cut a piece of bluestone to fit a patio or path. The tool has a motor, shaft, circular blade and blade guard, two grips and a flat base upon which the saw rides as you make a cut.

Circular Saw Controls
Besides the trigger-style on-off switch, there are really only two controls:

-- One control is a knob or lever that unlocks to allow the motor and blade assembly to pivot up or down the base. Raise the assembly and the saw's depth of cut is reduced. Lower the assembly and depth of cut is increased.

-- The other control is a knob that, when loosened, allows you to pivot the saw assembly to the side, thereby changing the angle of the blade and allowing you to make bevel cuts at angles that range between 0° and 55° (or slightly more or less).

Using a Circular Saw
To make a cut with a circular saw, make sure your workpiece is well-supported across most of its length. Never try to cut a piece of lumber that's only supported at its ends, as if it were a bridge.

Always mark a cut line on the work piece; you should have a visual reference even for a rough cut (one where the exact measure is not so important).

Set the blade depth so it's slightly deeper than the thickness of the board you intend to cut. This leaves less blade exposed and minimizes the chance for an accident. Then push the saw along the cut line at a steady pace. You'll notice that the rpms slow if you pushing the saw too fast.

When beginning a cut that needs to be accurate, position the blade to the waste side of the cut line. Saw blades, however thin, have a width (kerf). If you cut to the wrong side of the line, or even along the middle of the line, the workpiece will not end up being the dimension you intended.

If the cutoff (section of a board you're removing) is long, have a helper on hand to support it so it doesn't fall and break due to its weight before you complete your cut.

The best way to cut a piece of lumber for a beginner is to support the board you're cutting on a ¾-inch sheet of scrap plywood. (The plywood can rest on a table or on sawhorses.) Clamp the work piece to the plywood so you can use both hands to hold the saw. Set the depth of cut as described above and make the cut. Once you become more familiar with the tool, you will likely move on to holding the work piece with one hand and pushing the saw with the other, but clamping is recommended for safety-especially if you're a little short on arm strength.

Even experienced do-it-yourselfers will find that it's difficult to make long cuts without a guide. There's usually an accessory guide that comes with the saw, but it's of limited use. A better way is to clamp a straightedge to the work piece at the cut line. Then allow the edge of the saw base to ride against it as you make you saw. Just be sure to locate your clamps in places where they won't block the path of the saw.

As you become more experienced, you'll find it's possible to make plunge cuts with a circular saw, too. Plunge cuts, are useful for making cutouts. A good example is when you must cut a hole in sheathing for a window. To make a plunge cut, retract the blade guard, rest the front of the saw base on the work piece surface, turn on the saw, and and lower the blade into the workpiece until the saw base rests on the surface. You may then push the saw forward as when making a normal cut.

Buying a Circular Saw
Circular saws come in all sizes, horsepower, and weights. Buy one that you can easily heft but that's still powerful enough for the jobs you have planned.

Saw sizes are given by blade size. A good all-round saw size is 7-1/4 inch. For power, go with 15-amp motor.

Saw weights range from close to 10 lbs. to 13 lbs. and up. You can get a very powerful saw that weighs in at 10 lbs.

Try adjusting the bevel, depth of cut controls before purchasing the saw. Some saws have convenient built-in stops as 22.5° and 45°.

Look for a shaft lock. It will make replacing blades a lot easier.

Check for good cut line visibility, too. Being able to see where the blade meets the work piece is key to making an accurate cut. Some saws have a built-in LED light that improves visibility.

Before you leave the store with your purchase, buy the correct blade for the job. A 40-tooth combination blade with carbide-tipped teeth is a good all-purpose blade. (Combination means it's designed for making both rip and crosscuts.) An 18- or 24-tooth blade that sometimes comes with a saw performs poorly. For cutting plywood, a 140-tooth blade is a good investment.

Prices for a good saw begin at $100 go up from there. Saws that cost less will generally not stand up to frequent use.

Maintaining a Circular Saw
Circular saws should be cleaned after each use by blowing with compressed air or brushing with an old paintbrush. Change the blade when it begins to become dull. You'll know it's time when your saw cuts generate smoke and burn marks! Follow the manufacturer's recommendations when it comes to changing motor brushes

Circular Saw Safety Precautions
-- Wear safety glasses and hearing protection.

-- Support the work piece to be cut in such a way that to kerf will not close and bind the blade-a situation that can cause the saw to kick back toward you.

-- Adjust the depth of cut so the blade will cuts no deeper than the thickness of the work piece plus ¼ inch.

-- Tighten all knobs or levers so the base is locked firmly to the motor assembly.

-- Move the power cord so it's well away from the path of the blade.

-- Do not allow the blade to touch the work piece until you have turned on the saw.

-- Position yourself so that saw dust and wood chips will not be thrown in your face.

-- Allow the saw blade to come to a complete stop before putting the saw down.

-- Unplug the saw before adjusting for bevel or depth of cut, and before changing the blade.

-- Do not begin a cut if you will have to overextend your reach before you can complete it.

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Must-Have Tools for 2011

Mark Clement — 2011-01-01T08:03:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Year after year tool companies find ways to make tools better, easier to use, safer, or just more useful. Some years see gradual improvements, but this year has seen some blow-out game-changers that have become Must-Haves for 2011.

Photos: Hyde, Bosche, Select

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Must-Have Tools 2011

Select Step stepladder from Little Giant reinvents the category. It can do more -- in more places -- than any other ladder we've seen. It all starts with the individually articulated front and back legs. While you'll probably see this demonstrated most often by someone setting it up on a stair case, the reality is that such a position may be the last thing you use it for. Need to clean the gutters or hang holiday lights on the second floor? Set the rear legs lower than the front to match the pitch of the roof. Need to reach a tree branch but the ground is sloped? Again, set the ladder to match the terrain. Need to work in a corner installing a light fixture? Lean the ladder in, rather than craning your body over the top of a ladder. Speaking of light fixtures, our electrician almost stole this ladder from us he loved it so much. He loved the platform for holding stuff called the Air Deck. It's big, so you can hold anything from a paint can to ceiling fan to nailer and you can set it such that the Air Deck is in front of you like a tray. Very handy. Air Deck even has a magnetized spot for holding fasteners -- genius. When you're done, Air Deck stows away inside the rails of the ladder. Finally, and this may be the best part, the ladder is a 5, 6, 7, and 8-foot stepladder all in one. Stable and secure at all heights. It's great.

Little Giant SelectStep

Must-Have Tools 2011

Hyde Tools 10-in-1 is based on what's traditionally called a 5-in-1. It's typically a painter's tool, but we've carried them on MyFixitUpLife projects for years. We could go on about the uses of the tools from opening paint cans -- the right way! -- to using them as wedges, scrapers, gouges, levers, and stuffer-inners for everything from molding to insulation. But Hyde triple-jumped the rest of the 5-in-1s out there with the addition of a screwdriver. The handle accepts a driver bit -- 4 bits neatly store in the handle -- and enables us to remove switch plates or quickly tighten some door hardware without having to either carry or look for a typical screwdriver. Time saved. Top Tool status earned.

Must-Have Tools 2011

Ridgid JobMax is a whole new family of tools. Since the patents expired on Fein's MultiMaster oscillating tool, the rest of the tool world has been feverishly jumping into the space with new introductions to tap into this once untouchable market. Ridgid -- available at The Home Depo -- bided their time getting after this, but when they got to the field (or store shelf) they were ready to play. Their innovation was to use the oscillating tool platform to launch a family of tools powered by a single 12 volt, lithium ion battery and tool motor onto which you can swap different heads--the first of which is an oscillating tool. Also available are a right angle drill and ratchet head--with more coming in 2011. The key here is that you buy the motor once then buy less expensive--but no less useful--attachments.

Must-Have Tools 2011

Grace Bondera may not be a "new" tool, but bear with us for a second. Bondera makes our list because of the impact it has on the tools we already use -- both in how we'll use them and how we won't use them. Totally oversimplifying the technology that went into Bondera's development, it's simply double-sided tape. Bondera's back side sticks to the wall or counter and tiles stick to the front side. What this means is that whenever we tile a backsplash or countertop or shower wall (it's waterproof so you don't need cement board in a shower in many instances) we don't need to set-up or apply messy thinset mortar (some people call this 'mastic'). And because tiles can be installed with zero drying time, we can grout the same day. We can use Bondera for craft projects, too, everything from trivets to candy wreaths to who-knows-what?

Must-Have Tools 2011

Stanley Tools Clamping Flashlight is not a multi-tasking tool that tries too much. Stanley's Clamping Flashlight combines a basic spring clamp with an articulating head flashlight. This solves more problems than I think they realized. First, the clamp makes sense on our projects and in our lives. The clamp enables us to place the flashlight where we need it -- and keep it there, on a fencepost or tucked under my arm. We can see logs in the firewood stack on short winter days. During the summer, however, we placed a cooler out past the porch light's radius. No big whoop; we clamped the flashlight to the fence and, voila, instant bright light all night. But if you're under a sink the clamp acts as a base which holds the light still. If you need to move the light--and not the tool--you can do that too because the lamp both rotates and articulates. You can peek into a dark joist bay to follow a wire or see if a dryer vent pipe can make it through; or clip the body of the light to something as small as a pipe or (I really did this) coaxial cable running up the side of a house, then position the light where you need it. Long run-time and a gentle but bright light buys you a extra minutes of work on short winter days, lights up dark spots, or points you to party central.

Must-Have Tools 2011

The Bosch Glider Gliding Miter Saw is a 12 inch slider is generally a pro tool--and one is at the hub of just about every project we do from decks to kitchens, frame to finish. The category has seen incredible upgrades over the years, yet one thing that has remained constant is that the saw's cutter-head slides on rails. For saws that see a tremendous amount of use (including being caught in the rain) stuff eventually works its way between the rollers and rails, slowing them down. For other users--notably those set up in small shops or workspaces--those rails often require upwards of 12 inches behind the saw to travel. So that means if you want your saw against a wall (and where else would you put it other than a wall in a small workspace) it has to be about 1 foot away from the wall--as does the bench its on. The result is that you can't use that space for much other than air. Moreover, the space in front of the saw is consumed too because you need to stand in it. So if you have an 8 foot long work bench, you need about 8 square feet of air on either side of the bench to accommodate rails and you. The Bosch Glide's innovation is that the saw's cutter-head moves not on rails but on a hinged armature the company calls Axial Glide. This armature requires zero inches behind the saw which means you get that footprint of shop space back. That alone is huge. The cut capacity has been increased as well, which in combination with a tall fence, enables you to cut larger base and crown than in previous models. Bosch's new saw glides its way to more work in less space.

Must-Have Tools 2011

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The World's Best Snow Shovel

Mark Clement — 2010-12-29T11:01:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Sorry, but I have very little to good to say about no-name snow shovels. I do have a lot of nice things to say about a "grain scoop" or a "coal shovel" -- which should be known as the Best Snow Shovel.

Ordinary snow shovels are terrible at getting under compacted (think walked or driven on) snow. They're useless on ice or frozen snow. If you only get snow on one side of the T-Shaped blade, it's so out-of-balance that the thing simply spins out of your hand. They're no good for "plowing" light snow. They're flexible and fragile and the handles break easily. .

Turns out, a shovel I discovered quite by accident is the best snow shovel I have ever used.

Grain Scoop or Coal Shovel
Durable, rugged and able to move a mountain of wet, dry, freezing or anywhere-in-between snow. This so-called "grain scoop" or "coal shovel" (depending who you're talking with) is a shovel you can buy at your local home center. Check out this aluminum one here; though you can also find plastic ones. You've probably seen one before and didn't realize. We use this same shovel for cleaning up messes on projects throughout the year, whether it's plaster and debris from remodeling, leaves in the spring or fall, or making a molehill out of bark mulch mountain this tool is with us in all seasons. Heck, I've even seen people use them cleaning up after Fido.

Why It's The Best:

1. The scoop is stout. That means after snow is compacted from walking or driving, it has enough rigidity to break up that cake of snow. And so is the the handle. Had several of these for years and in year round use. Never even came close to breaking one. Shovel 2; Snow 0.

2. The scoop is big-with sides. If you have to pick up the snow and move it somewhere -- say over a garden wall or over the previous storm's snow bank -- you can. Powdery snow stays in the scoop (mostly) while the sides help cut up through wet (we call it "snowball snow") snow so you can again get a heap you can manage. Shovel 3; Snow 0.

3. The scoop is also in-line with the handle. I don't think a single scoop of snow has ever twisted out of my hand. Shovel 4; Snow 0.

4. The scoop is wide. If you decide that "plowing" your snow using the shovel is the ticket, the sides of the shovel make moving snow much more effective. Instead of leaving trails behind both sides of the shovel it actually moves snow. This isn't always the most effective way-it's not a snow plow-but it can work in some cases (like when you get just a few inches of light snow or you're shoving the what's left of the snow-bank left by the city plow back into the street.) Shovel 5; Snow 0.

5. The scoop gets under the snow. Because the shovel is short-handled, the blade lays flatter to the ground-where it needs to be to be effective. Kind of like the iron in a low-angle block plane, the scoop hits the snow more parallel to the ground than other shovels, giving it a better chance to break snow loose from the asphalt or grass (yes, we have to shovel paths around our house, some of which has us shoveling grass) or concrete.

Final Score: Shovel 6; Snow 0.

For an example of an ergonomic model for your shoveling needs, check out this video:

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Unusual Uses for Tape

Mrs. FIXIT — 2010-12-28T09:15:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Essential Skills, Know-How

Tape is always on my mind during the holidays! Do I have enough? Where is it?

But long after the last package is wrapped, I'm still thinking about tape. It's so handy all year round that I keep rolls and rolls in my house. From duct tape to masking tape -- you can use it all -- here are my favorite uses for tape all over the house!

Photo: Corbis

Around the House:
o. If you're hanging a picture on a plaster wall put a small "X" of cellophane tape over the spot you need to drive the nail this will prevent your paint from cracking

o. When fixing a broken mug handle, use masking tape to gently secure the repair. Let the glue dry and the mug will be as good as new!

o. To clean cobwebs off of the ceiling all you need is some duct tape and some PVC pipe! Attach a length of PVC piping to the end of the vacuum hose and seal the seam with some duct tape. Now raise the new nozzle to the ceiling and turn on the vacuum cleaner. This will easily whisk away cobwebs and dust.

o. Tightly woven carpets look great in any home and they're really durable. But what happens if you get a snag in one of the loops? It's very easy to fix. Use a pair of scissors to snip the snag off of the carpet as close to the base as you can. Line each side of the run with some masking tape as close to the edge as you can to protect the surrounding carpet. Run a bead of carpet adhesive into the hole. Use an awl to carefully guide each of the loops back into place. You'll know where the loops begin and ends because there will be a little patch of the old adhesive along the length of the piece you're working with where each loop was originally connected. When the entire length of the snag is back in place, remove the masking tape from both sides and keep traffic off the area until the adhesive dries.

o. Pesky silverfish? Make a trap by running double-sided tape up the side of a glass and putting it upright where you spot the bugs. They'll climb up the tape and once they're in the glass they won't be able to climb out.

o. If you're getting ready for move, masking tape is a handy tool. When you take pictures off of your wall. Take the hook off of the wall and tape it to the back of the frame. This way when you get to your new home you won't have to go searching for hardware. If you're getting ready for move, masking tape is a handy tool. When you take pictures off of your wall. Take the hook off of the wall and tape it to the back of the frame. This way when you get to your new home you won't have to go searching for hardware.

o. Need to sew a tiny button onto a shirt. Tape the button to the fabric, it will hold it in place while you get the sewing started, then you can simply rip it away.

In the Workshop:
o. When you use a saw, you can end up splintering your wood. To prevent this, run a length of masking tape along your cut line, and this will keep the splintering in check.

o. Before you start a project with a sanding block, put a strip of wide tape on the back of your sandpaper. This will give you a cutting guide because it is just the right width and it will keep your paper from ripping on the block so it will last.

o. If you use a shop broom for cleaning large areas you know it is nearly impossible to get the mess into a dustpan. Well tape some newspapers to the floor, sweep the dirt onto the papers and then crumple the entire mess into the garbage.

o. If you need to do some serious nailing use some electrical tape to mark off your hammer handle at three, six, nine and twelve inch increments. This way you can hold the hammer handle against the wall and easily eyeball the next location of your nail.

o. If you're having trouble holding a screw when starting it, stick the end through a piece of tape and tape it to the screwdriver. This way you'll be able to drive the screw without dropping it and you can pull the tape off when you're done!

o. Wrap some tape around the metal rim of a paintbrush before you use it, the tape will prevent the paint from seeping up onto the rim, which is harder to clean. Simply peel the tape off when you're done.

o. Wrap tape around a new paint roller and then pull it off the loose fuzzies will end up on the tape not in your paint.

A tape tip!

We've all been there, you pick and pick and you still can't find the end of that roll of tape, try a toothpick. Stick it to the underside of the end of the tape. It will do a couple of things, one, it will hold the tape so you can cut it and, leave it under the tip and you'll have a handy pull tab the next time you need the tape!

Now those are some tips you can stick with! I'm Mrs. FIXIT and it's just that simple!

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Power Tools: Should You Rent or Buy?

Mark Clement — 2010-12-17T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Is that power tool worth the investment, or will it end up being a colossal waste of time and space? DIY pro Mark Clement of MyFixItUpLife makes the tough decisions about 10 popular power tools so you don't have to.

When it comes to purchasing some power tools, renting will always be a better option than buying. Photo: Dougww, Flickr

Before you go on your next home-improvement shopping spree, ask yourself: do you really need to buy that reciprocating saw?

That's not to say you don't need to use the tool, but maybe you don't need to actually purchase it. In some cases, it actually makes more sense to rent a substantial power tool than it does to buy. Stores like The Home Depot and Lowe's charge by the hour, half-day, full day, week and even by the month for tool rentals. There's usually a wide selection of professional-quality, name brand tools at your disposal.

Prior to renting, make sure you have a firm understanding of how long your project will take or how often you predict on using a tool in the long run. Miscalculating and opting to rent tools frequently or for an extended period of time can mean shelling out more money than if you had simply bought the items outright.

So, when it comes to large power tools, how do you know if something is a worthy investment or just a big waste of money and space? This road map should help you navigate the home improvement aisle.

TOOLS YOU SHOULD BUY
These five power tools can be used on a variety of projects, giving you the most bang for your buck. Take them home because they're for keeps.

Photo: Jupiterimages

- Cordless Drill/Hammerdrill: When it comes to drilling and driving, you'll get more mileage out of an 18 volt drill/hammerdrill than anything else. It's got enough "umph" for drilling 5/8-inch holes in deck framing or 1-inch holes for plumbing or electrical projects, as well as setting windows, cabinets or drywall screws. Plus, you can switch to a hammer function and drill small holes for concrete anchors, ideal for hanging anything from a heavy mirror or artwork to a mailbox and garden hose reel. This versatile drill eliminates the need for multiple tools, so it's a must-have.

- 7 1/4-inch Circular Saw: From cutting shelf blanks for a linen closet to building gates, the circular saw is the go-to cutting tool. Compact, versatile and powerful, a circular saw can go where other tools can't and gets results others simply don't. The MyFixitUpLife circular saw is a professional worm drive gear. It's heavy, and some might find it awkward to use, but there are other lighter and just as powerful options, such as the less expensive sidewinder.

A portable table saw proves to be an indispensable tool. Photo: RIGID Professional Tools

- Portable Table Saw. This table saw is one of the most useful tools in your workshop -- no matter how big or small that workshop may be. Is building a jewelry box, wagon, shelf on your DIY to-do list? A table saw proves to indispensable for these small projects, as well as bigger jobs like flooring, thresholds, fences, framing and more. Great for beginning DIYers and workshops with limited space, the market offers a wide variety of portable saws - some costing less than $200. For aspiring woodworkers, try using a premium blade rather than the one that comes packaged with the saw. The one provided with the saw is a rough-construction blade and leaves swirl marks that you'll have to sand out.

Compressor and Finish Nailer Photo: Stanley Bostitch

- Miter Saw. Precision cutting is what the miter saw does best, especially when it comes to making accurate 90-degree crosscuts. This versatile saw is great for a wide variety of jobs, such as cutting window trim, decorative trim molding, and two-by-fours.There are a lot of different configurations and price points for miter saws on the market. Some models pivot and some tilt to make compound angle cuts. Built-in blade guards make miter saws safer than other power cutters. As a good rule of thumb, buy the best model you can afford. The more you plan to use the saw, the higher quality it should be. The tool can prove to be indispensable in every step of a project, from frame to finish.

- Compressor and Finish Nailer. A nail gun completes a job in the fraction of the time it would take the traditional hammer and nail. There are several very well-appointed compressor/nailer kits on the market that you can use on every trim project from installing base and crown molding to chair rails, flooring and more. The kits come complete with with compatible tools, hoses, and couplings, including a blow-gun attachment to blow dust and clean debris out. If you expect to do a lot framing, buy a larger compressor. After which, you can then buy or rent (around $35 per day) a framing nailer as needed. Your compressor and nailer will make installing trim and other projects proceed smoothly, quicker and accurately.

TOOLS YOU SHOULD RENT
The decision to rent often boils down to how often you plan to use the tool in question. Here are tools that may end up collecting dust in your workshop (no matter how cool they'll look while they do it), so it's more cost-effective to rent them an as-needed basis.

Photo: DEWALT Tools

- Reciprocating Saw. If you're a heavy-duty DIYer -- routinely installing a kitchen or bath, gutting an entire room, putting in a skylight and so forth -- you'll need a reciprocating saw. But if you do larger projects once in a blue moon (or never), you can get by without owning one. For trim, flooring, installing hanging new doors, shingles, building a shed or retaining wall, a reciprocating saw just isn't necessary. It's better to rent one on those rare occasions when you need it.

Rent: Laser level (Photo: DeWalt Tools)

- Flooring Nailer. Wood flooring is a very popular DIY project. Lots of floors (think solid hardwood (raw or pre-finished) and engineered products (such as a plywood backer with a hardwood veneer) are nailed down. The tool that accomplishes this, a flooring nailer or stapler, is not something readily used for other projects. So once you're done with your floors, well, you're done with the tool. A high-quality nailer can cost upwards of $400, but if you rent one from your local Home Depot or Lowe's you're looking at only about $55 for 24 hours.

- Laser Levels. Beefier types of levels are ideal for shooting even lines for a kitchen cabinet replacement, suspended ceiling or deck project. You can also use them for laying out basement wall plate locations. While prices for these tools have plummeted, they're still not free. The very accurate lasers feature sophisticated servo motors or pendulums, and are better used for large renovation projects that include installing floors or sloping walks and driveways. For smaller laser levels that can be used for leveling a row of photo frames or painting stripes, opt to buy. These laser levels are available at low retail prices, and can be utilized in various home projects that require a straight line.

- Roofing Nailer. Most DIY roofing projects are one-day, weekend, or one-and-done projects. Unless you see yourself re-roofing lots of square footage around the house, go with a rental here.

- Concrete Tools. Rotary hammers (sometimes called "combination hammers" because they drill and chip) are enormously efficient and powerful tools, specialized for drilling larger holes effortlessly and breaking thick concrete and masonry. Rotary hammers can also be used to break up rock-hard clay and dig post holes. Concrete tools are pricey, so unless you've got a mountain of work to complete or plan on using them regularly, it's more cost-effective to rent.

SEE ALSO:
10 Free Services at Home Depot
Building Your DIY Tool Box (Design*Sponge)
Tool Rentals at Home Depot (Apartment Therapy)

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Wood Repair: How to Fix Damage From Rot

Joe Provey — 2010-12-08T14:00:00+00:00

Filed under: fix-it, weekend projects, Tools, Patios, Porches & Decks, Know-How, Outdoors

When it comes to inexpensive wood repair, durable epoxy can fix rotted wood and save you hundreds of dollars in replacement costs.

Photo: The leg joint of this carved wooden bench failed because of rot. Two applications of epoxy allowed the author to rebuild the joint. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Any piece of wood that traps moisture is highly susceptible to rot. Fences, decks, column bases, porch stairs, wooden planters, outdoor furniture, window casings and sills are all common locations for wood rot. Replacing decayed wood on a large scale is an expensive and time-consuming process, especially if you have to disassemble the structure. But if the rot is not too extensive, it can often be patched up with a mixture of wood flour (or sawdust) and two-part marine epoxy. Marine epoxy is a resin and hardener combo.

GETTING STARTED
To begin the restoration process, use a chisel or screwdriver to remove crumbling rot and debris from the area to be repaired. It is not necessary to remove semi-solid (or "punky") wood, as this can be treated.

After the rot has been removed, mix a suitable amount of epoxy per the manufacturer's directions. For safety, wear gloves when mixing and working with epoxy. Work outdoors if possible, or in a well-ventilated area.

Mix the resin and hardener thoroughly for several minutes. Do not mix more epoxy than you can use during the setting time indicated by the manufacturer. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

APPLYING THE EPOXY
Many epoxies have two parts, resin and hardener, that must be mixed in a container just before application. When mixing epoxy, it is important to use the proper ratio of resin to hardener. Make sure not to mix more than what can be used in a few minutes. Epoxy hardens quickly, and once it does you won't be able to use it anymore. Tip: If you get epoxy on your skin, wash it immediately with vinegar, then use soap and water.

Once mixed, the epoxy will remain liquid for about 15 minutes. Quickly brush it onto the damaged area, soaking any places that are soft from the rot. Then stir wood flour, sawdust or a filler recommended by the epoxy manufacturer into the remaining epoxy until it reaches the consistency of peanut butter.

The resin and hardener combines to form an epoxy mixture with the consistency of peanut butter. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Fill gaps with the epoxy paste using a putty knife, or any tool that will allow you to shape the paste as required. If the gap is deeper than ¾ inch, fill it in with two or more applications of paste. Slightly overfill the final application and allow it to cure (but it will take a few days to fully harden).

An artist's palette knife is handy for shaping the filler. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

SMOOTH AND FINISH SURFACE
After an hour or two, you can further shape the patch and remove excess filler with conventional tools, such as a utility knife, wood file or sandpaper.

After an hour or two, the epoxy will have hardened enough so it can be chiseled, sanded, drilled, routed or or planed. Photo: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Once the epoxy is cured (see left), it can be primed and painted to match adjacent surfaces.

While this is an inexpensive solution to wood rot, don't forget to identify and remedy the source of moisture that caused the rot in the first place. It's usually due to improper drainage, inadequate ventilation, poor construction techniques, or a combination of all three.

SEE ALSO:
Conceal a Nick in Wood Furniture
Wood Rot in Decks and Porches (Bob Vila)
The Wide World of Epoxy (This Old House)
How To: Put a Stop to Squeaky Floors (ShelterPop)

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Drive A Screw Like A Pro

Mark Clement — 2010-12-03T09:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Essential Skills, Know-How

Ever wish you knew a carpenter's secrets to driving screws perfectly every time? We did too -- so we asked one. Here's what he revealed about this tricky technique.

Photo: grendelkhan, Flickr

Here's a scenario that may sound familiar: You're using a drill/driver to drive a screw into drywall or wood when the bit at the tip of the tool just starts spinning inside the screw's head....thuda-thuda-thuda. Before you know it, the screw head is stripped and you have to start over.

Well, I've got good news and bad news. The bad news is that once you hear your driver making that sound, that means head's been s stripped (also called "reamed" in carpenter lingo), and the screw is pretty much unusable. The good news is that once you know the right way to drive a screw, you'll never have this problem again.

GETTING STARTED
Many people struggle with getting the screw threads started in the first place. They do everything right in terms of holding the power driver and applying firm, consistent, in-line pressure, but the screw tip just skates on the surface of the wood instead of augering down. Frustrated, people often push too hard and tip the screw over.

One solution is easy and works particularly well in drywall. Hold the screw to the driver tip with your thumb and index finger about 3/4 inch from the work surface. Then, all at once, push the tool and screw into the work surface firmly, jabbing the screw tip in. It doesn't take much force at all, but it's a great way to sink the screw threads enough to catch once you pull the driver's trigger. This method works well on soft-woods too, and obviously, works better with sharper screws (some screw tips are sharper than others.)

STAYING IN LINE
Once you've gotten the screw started, it can be tricky to keeping it going. Here's how to keep the screw straight and steady as you work: Imagine a line passing from the screw tip up through the bit holder, through the tool and passing right over the top of your fist as you pull the tool's trigger. Hold this line straight and the screw should move directly into the surface.

It doesn't much to get for the hinge point between the driver tip and the screw head to get out of line. The good news is that misalignment is easy to fix once you can feel it happening.

Are You Not Using Enough Pressure?
Some people simply don't apply enough pressure to keep the driver bit in constant contact with the screw head the deeper it goes. Say you're driving a 3-inch deck screw. It goes in fine for the first inch or two but then...thuda-thuda-thuda. What happened?

The resistance (friction) inside the wood increases as more steel sinks inside it, which requires a commensurate increase in pressure from you to keep the tool in contact with the fastener. Solution, stay in-line and press harder. You'll get the hang of it.

Are You Using Too Much Pressure?
If you tip screws often or drive them too deep, you're pressing too hard. Ease back the pressure just a little.

TRIGGERING
Some people are too tentative with the trigger, fearing misalignment or overdrives (a bigger problem in drywall and cabinet projects where you need to set the screw just so). The solution is to pull trigger in short bursts, also known as "goosing" the trigger. Pull the trigger all the way, then let go all the way. There is too much resistance between the wood and the steel to drive a screw slowly in most cases, so go in quick bursts of full-on, full-off and you'll eventually get the hang of it and be able to set a screw just right.

REPLACING THE DRIVER TIP
Driver tips don't often break, but they do wear out. After a lot of steel on steel contact, the driver tip gets slippery. If you used to be able to drive a screw, but now the tip of the driver seems to skate inside the screw head, it's probably time for a new tip. You can often recognize a worn tip just by its appearance; driver tips are usually pretty shiny compared with the rest of the steel.

PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
It might seem strange to practice driving screws like you're practicing free-throws, but technique is technique. Grab a box of screws and some scrap 4 x 4 and have at it. One reason carpenters get super proficient at these kinds of things isn't because we're magic, but because of our repetition. We drive pounds of screws per day, every week.

Here's the challenge: Now that you know where you might be going wrong -- and keep in mind you may be having more than one problem at once -- the key is to put all the solutions together so you solve problems on the fly and learn to drive screws like a pro.

Want to ask me a something about DIY technique? Leave your question in the comments below, and I may address it in a future post!

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Best Wall Anchors and How to Install Them

Joe Provey — 2010-12-01T15:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Tools, Know-How

Can't find a wall stud? Wall anchors allow you to hang just about anything to hollow drywall or plaster. Here are the top anchors to attach items safely and securely to walls.

Today's wall anchors beat old-style plastic expansion anchors and conventional toggle bolts hands down. All photos: Joe Provey, Home & Garden Editorial Services

Hanging objects on the wall requires proper fasteners, installation and know how. What makes it a tricky job at times is the fact that drywall is constructed of lightweight materials and is not designed to support heavy hanging objects. Standard fasteners can easily pull right off the wall and cause damage to it.

Usually, the best way to attach something is by driving a screw into the wall's underlying wooden framing, made up of studs. Typically studs are spaced 16 inches apart on a wall, but unfortunately they never seem to be where you need to hang something. This is where anchors come in handy.

Anchors may be used in walls and ceilings to hang everything from towel racks and toilet paper dispensers to light fixtures, mirrors and shelving units. Some are designed for hollow applications where there most likely isn't a convenient stud or beam available; places such as walls and ceilings covered with drywall and hollow-core doors. Here are the best anchors for hanging objects on hollow drywall, plaster walls and ceilings.

WINGED PLASTIC ANCHORS
A big step up from ribbed plastic anchors, winged plastic anchors may be used in drywall or plaster and cost less than metal drywall anchors. Designed to spread their "wings," they provide more strength than other plastic expansion anchors and are less likely to pull out from the wall.

Photo: Winged plastic anchors called Pop-Toggles, along with a yellow pin tool for installing the anchor and a pair of screws. Photo: Joe Provey, Home and Garden Editorial Services

Winged plastic anchors are best used for: Towel bars, toilet paper holders, heavy picture frames, light fixtures, bulletin boards, smoke alarms, lightweight shelving, and wall-mounted mirrors on plaster walls.

How to Install a Wall Anchor: