DIY Life

Do you have a toilet that won't stop running? Do you constantly have to jiggle the handle, or remind other people to do so? That constant running water is adding up to big bucks on your water bill, not to mention the many gallons or water that are being wasted. You would never let your sink run all day and night, most of us even turn off the water while we are brushing our teeth, so why let the toilet continually waste water?

A running toilet can waste two gallons of water per minute, while a silent leak in a toilet can waste up to 7,000 gallons of water per month.

If you are not sure if your toilet is running, turn off the tap behind your toilet. Check the water level in the tank. Leave it for a few hours and then recheck the tank. If the water level has dropped, you have a problem.

There are only so many things that can go wrong inside of your toilet. Fixing your toilet is inexpensive and easy. So easy, in fact, that it doesn't even require tools!

When a home is built, the architect and builder should always make provisions for future maintenance. Unfortunately, altogether too often, this is one place where corners are cut. One of these details is access to plumbing components. This means plumbing access panels in the walls.

These panels allow the homeowner to get to the tub water supply and drain, and the manifold (hot/cold water mixer). The access panel is generally located on the other side of the wall in a closet. But what if you have to do a repair and you search high and low for a panel and find nothing?

Well, you're just going to have to cut into the drywall -- but plan in advance. Before doing a thing, head out to the local home improvement store and pick up a plastic snap-in access panel. This type needs no framing and will only set you back about $12.00. Just cut the hole in the drywall and it snaps in!

You'll need to locate the spot in the closet where you need to cut. Then locate the studs with a stud-finder closest to the cut-point between adjacent studs. Mark the wall, open it up with a drywall saw, make the repair, and snap in the plastic access panel. Easy as pie!

Does plumbing intimidate you? Don't let it! It's not as mysterious or carnivorous as electrical work. Permanent plumbing connections are secured using an assortment of copper pipe and fittings: if you can do Legos, you can sweat copper.

You'll need a propane torch, tubing cutter, emory cloth, flux, lead-free solder, fire extinguisher, and a wire pipe brush for pipe innards. The first thing to do is cut, rough up mating surfaces, and dry-fit it all to ensure a good fit. Let's walk through the procedure for a connection.

1. Stir flux and brush it on mating surfaces.
2. Assemble pipe and fittings.
3. Light and adjust the torch. It's right when you see a flame within a flame.
4. Touch the tip of the inside flame to the joint and watch the flux boil.
5. At approximately 15 seconds, the flux will disappear; touch the solder to the pipe/fitting intersection and remove the torch.
6. When the solder melts, it will be drawn into the fitting where the flux was. You'll have about 10 seconds to apply more solder, if needed. Until you get the hang of it, err on the side of excess.
   

And there you have it! Keep the fire extinguisher close at hand, and finish any further assembly. Bravo: one more DIY skill in your toolbox!

The key part of basement remodeling happens before you ever even touch a tool. I'm talking about design, of course. What you intend to use your basement for will move your design ideas in the right direction. A great method is to brainstorm with your spouse and kids with notebook and pencil in hand.

Plan, plan, and plan some more

Throw out the ideas willy-nilly and discuss them. You'll be surprised at what you find! Once you've got all your "wants" nailed down, take a look at your budget and identify your "needs." There's bound to be some chaff there somewhere.

Are you going to use the basement as a home office? Then plan on Internet, phone, and fax connections. Will it be a game room, family room, or something along that line? You'll probably want to install plumbing for a wet bar as well as cable or satellite TV connections.

One of the first things you need to assure yourself of is whether your entire basement space, walls and floors, are properly sealed against moisture. This is the perfect time to take care of it -- before it can become a problem.

It's been so long since we started our kitchen remodeling project, I almost forgot to post its completion. Though it's been functionally complete for several weeks, we were waiting on what turned out to be one of those "unexpected expenses" -- a new floor. The old one, much to our dismay, could not be patched.

Though we hired out the big work -- cabinet and counter top installation -- we did a lot of the grunt work ourselves. I wish I had kept a running total on the money we saved, because it was a lot. (Enough to cover the cost of the new floor? I don't know.) After the break, I'll share a summary of the work we put in to save ourselves money on the whole project.

In cooperation with the Consumer Product Safety Commission, Weil-McLain has announced a voluntary recall of about 1,800 Williamson-Thermoflo GWS and GWI gas boilers. If a leak occurs in the vent piping, the boilers can leak carbon monoxide into the building in which they are installed, posing a risk of CO poisoning. No injuries have been reported.

Manufactured in the United States and sold by plumbing and heating wholesale distributors to plumbers and contractors from October 2001 through December 2007 for between $1,500 and $2,700, this recall involves cast iron, gas fired boilers used for space heating. Please check the CPSC press release for more information.

Consumers are advised to contact their installers for a free safety inspection and repair. For more information, contact Williamson-Thermoflo at (866) 783-9516, or visit their website at www.williamson-thermoflo.com.

FYI: Weil-McLain has issued a voluntary recall for Weil-McLain gas boilers; see that recall here.

In cooperation with the Consumer Product Safety Commission, Weil-McLain has announced a voluntary recall of about 32,000 Weil-McLain CG's and CGi gas boilers. If a leak occurs in the vent piping, the boilers can leak carbon monoxide into the building in which they are installed, posing a risk of CO poisoning. No injures have been reported.

Manufactured in the U.S. and sold by plumbing and heating wholesale distributors to plumbers and contractors from October 2001 through December 2007 for between $1,700 and $2,700, this recall involves cast iron, gas fired boilers used for space heating. Please check the CPSC press release for model names and serial numbers.

Consumers are advised to contact their installers for a free safety inspection and repair. For more information, contact Weil-McLain at (866) 783-9276 or visit their website at www.weil-mclain.com.

When a sink or tub suddenly stops draining, it's tempting to reach for the drain cleaner. Though drain cleaners -- actually powerful, corrosive chemicals -- can work when drains have trivial clogs, they aren't effective against bigger problems. Not only that, they can wreak havoc on your pipes and are terrible for the environment.

Instead, recommends Mother Earth Living take a little time to get a better understanding of how your drain system works, and you'll be able to beat clogs at their source.

Tools you might need:

• a sink plunger
• a bucket
• a pipe wrench
• a flexible wire (like a wire coat hanger twisted out of shape)
• a drain snake

Learn how to get started after the break, but if you're squeamish, don't forget to put on your rubber gloves!

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with A.O. Smith Water Products Co,. has issued a voluntary recall of about 1,500 natural and propane gas water heaters. The water heater's exhaust can leak into the surrounding room, posing a carbon monoxide hazard. A fire hazard is posed when excessive temperatures are reached in the venting unit, caused by the water heater's flue, exceeding safe gas temperature limits.

These were manufactured in the United States and sold by independent contractors and plumbers, from November 2007 through January 2008. Sale prices were between $1,000 and $2,500. This recall involves 75 gallon natural and propane gas water heaters featuring "A.O. Smith" or "State" printed on the side of the unit. Please check the CPSC press release for more information on the recalled water heaters.

Consumers can contact A.O. Smith at (866) 880- 4661 to arrange for a free repair of the recalled water heater, or visit A.O. Smith's website at www.hotwater.com.

There's no such thing as a good sewer odor, right? If there's a persistent, but unexplained, stink emanating from your bathroom the cause could be sewer gas. Sewer gas is supposed to stay down inside your municipal sewer system or private septic tank. Problems occur when it finds its way back up into the house via your toilet. Eeew.

Surprise, surprise. Plumbing experts say sewer gas is something you should take care of, and not just for the obvious reason that the stink is absolutely revolting. Did you know that sewer gas is toxic when breathed in repeatedly? It's also associated with a buildup of methane gas, which is explosive. Eeek! Now that's a potty problem!

According to trusty home repair extraordinaire, Tim "Ask the Builder" Carter, it's best to locate the root cause of the problem as soon as possible. Tim says the cause of the stink is usually a blockage or a crack in the plumbing drain line or vent pipe, with the latter being a lot harder to detect. Plumbers can find the leaks by forcing colored smoke from a smoke generating machine through the pipes. Cool!

Read more at AskTheBuilder.com.

We've all been there: that rising feeling of dread and suspense. No, I'm not talking about one of Jean-Paul Sartre's books. I'm talking about when we flush the toilet and all of a sudden the bowl's contents slowly start moving in completely the wrong direction. What to do?

The first thing, since you're standing right there anyway, is to start kicking the base of the toilet with your foot. After all, the stuff wants to go down, and sometimes all it takes is a helping hand (or foot) to dislodge things and help the process along.

The next thing to try is the trusty old plunger. There are times when smooth, slow strokes will do the trick. Other times it takes quick, sharp jabs.

And if that doesn't work, get to the hardware store and pick up a toilet auger. It's really a snake, but inside a long pole with a hand crank on the end. It works every time and costs much less than a plumber's service call.

I have occasion to work at a Catholic retreat center in the beautiful north Georgia mountains, adjacent to a National Forest. Over the Christmas break, in a bitter cold spell, one of the mobile homes used as temporary housing had frozen water lines (no one was at the camp to "drip" the water). We got the lines thawed by covering the suspect freeze points with plastic sheeting and using a "torpedo" heater (see Anna Satler's excellent post on using a hair dryer; unfortunately for us, the number of frozen pipes we had would have required 10 or 12 hair dryers and maybe half the power of the community!) to take care of business; it was a hassle but the situation was resolved with no need to replace broken water lines and shower drains. Our next immediate need was to insulate the area under the home, then skirt it to protect the insulating board. Keep reading, even if you don't own a double wide; this fix can be used for any structure that is raised above the ground -- a mountain cabin, wood shop, or any building which has water lines to protect.

The gallery illustrates the basic process; join me after the jump.

Water heaters can be a lot like shoes. (Stay with me here guys) If you spend the time to pick the right size and style you will be happy for many, many moons. Rush into it, and you will regret it for the next 6-12 years that it is warrantied for. Lucky for you, I am in the mood to help guide your decision.

First up is electric versus gas. Gas (LP or natural) units are much cheaper to run, but if you convert from electric over to gas the installation will be complicated by the need to run gas lines AND install duct work to vent the new unit. Electrics are heavy on the wallet for operating costs, but the installation requires no venting, and it is easier to throw a breaker and connect a few wires than to shut off the gas, hook up the new flex line, and then check for leaks. Most people stay with what they have to save on labor costs, and for the most part I would endorse this line of thought. If you are starting from scratch though, go gas.

There's a damp patch in my garage. I've been in denial for a long time, telling myself it's probably caused by rainwater seeping through the garage's concrete foundation. However, the patch has gotten bigger...and bigger. Meanwhile, there's been no rain for at least a week now. Time to face facts: I may have a leaking water heater. Bah!

Looking on the bright side, I might be able to fix this problem myself and avoid shelling out precious dollars for a plumber. (Please, oh, please!) Off I go to look for advice on the Web. Here' s what I found most useful:

Sites to check out:

• Home Tips is an ideal starting point, with a for-beginners-style intro to tank repair, and a ton of other problem-solving articles.

In relocating the hookup for a washer and dryer I ran into a tricky situation. It was going to require six joints in both the hot and cold lines to maneuver around a beam, go under the joists, and then connect to the existing plumbing. Not looking forward to trying to sweat copper pipes in a cramped crawl space or cut ten different lengths of copper pipe, I decided to look into using a flexible length of of tubing called cross-linked polyethylene or PEX instead.

I still had to solder a few fittings to put in the coupling to attach the PEX to the copper. The high price of copper is a good reason to give plastic tubing serious consideration for your next plumbing job. After the jump I'll tell you about my first experience working with PEX and a few little tips for you to keep in mind if you ever need to do a remodel and want to work with flexible piping.