DIY Life

Admit it; you spend a lot of quality time in your bathroom! We all do. Accordingly, it needs to look nice. And like any other part of the castle, the decor looks a little tired and dated after a while. What to do? Give the bathroom a face lift on a budget!

So, in this edition of PRS, we're going to look at some ideas on how to bring this area up to snuff without breaking the bank. Let's look at the walls first.

Lose the boring old wallpaper

That old wallpaper that once looked so stylin' now looks like something the cat dragged in. Out of style, a few stray crayon marks from the toddler days, and the steam-soaked seams are curling up like your mother-in-law's lips when she sneers at you. (I hope she's not reading this!)

(This post has been edited since publication to fix some broken links.)

Have you been thinking about a bathroom or kitchen remodeling project? Good choice! These two rooms get used a lot -- they're both functional and intimate. And both of them feel right at home with tile, including ceramic, porcelain, and good, old-fashioned stone.

Begin your remodel with a demo

Some folks consider the demolition phase of the remodel to be the most fun. After all, it's an opportunity for a bit of justifiable violence. Be careful though; don't cut into any plumbing pipes or electrical circuits. If your home has a few years on it, the walls in your bathroom are most likely regular drywall or greenboard (water-resistant drywall.

Greenboard used to be the industry standard as the base for installing tile on, but now it's frowned upon. You'll want to get rid of it and replace it with backer board. This is a cement-fiber material that offers not only water-resistance, but also incredible stability.

When you're planning a patio, carport, outside storage shed, or a standing porch cover, the first thing you need to consider is your concrete slab.

The challenge of pouring a concrete slab yourself is not too big -- with the proper planning. Because this is a DIY project, your concrete slab cost is bearable; the cost can just be added to your home equity. This article will provide instructions for building a form, pouring, and finishing a concrete slab.

When you're in the planning mode, you need to consider any plumbing and electrical conduit that will be incorporated in the slab. Failure to prepare for these concerns will mean the concrete slab will have to be trenched and patched.

Trenching and patching is a tedious and expensive process not to be reckoned with! The key is to make sure everything is properly planned and laid out before any wet concrete graces the work site. The trick, if you're dealing with anything sophisticated, is to use a well thought-out sketch, or a permit-approved blueprint if your municipality requires it.

Tools and Materials:

• Hammer
• Wooden stakes
• Mason's string
• 1" X 4" lumber for the concrete form
• 2" X 4" stud for the screed
• Shovel
• Steel wire mesh
• Side cutting pliers
• Steel tie wire
• 4' Level or laser
• Darby or bull float
• Magnesium float
• Steel trowel

Lay Out Your Slab's Location

The first thing to do is to decide on where the concrete slab will be located and what its size will be. Once you've got that nailed down, you'll need to drive stakes at the slab's corners, and connect the corners using string line. This represent 's your slab's boundary.

Be sure that your lines are square. Use the 3-4-5 method, then make any adjustments until you're spot on.

Prepare the Slab's Location

Pinch up the sod inside the area located within the string line. Next, level the dirt.

Now it's time to trench the footing. This is completely around the perimeter just inside the string line. Dig it one foot wide, and at least six inches deep. The purpose of the slab's footing is to strengthen and stabilize the slab.

Some municipalities require that a vapor barrier be placed on the dirt prior to pouring the slab. Inquire with the regional building code to determine whether this needs to be done.

The rationale for a vapor barrier is that moisture migrates up through the slab by capillary action and diffusion. This moisture is bad news for floor coverings and some folks claim it can be a health issue if mold develops.

Now, install steel mesh in the footing for small slabs, and rebar for larger slabs. Secure it together with pliers at the intersections with tie wire. This will strengthen the footing where the pressure is greatest. Again, consult your local building code for your particular situation.

Build Your Form

The concrete slab needs a wooden form to keep the concrete contained during its curing and finishing process. Use 1" X 4" or 1" X 6" boards for the form's sides. The string line serves as a guide and ensures your form is square and true.

You'll nail the form together. This is for stability; wet concrete exerts a lot of pressure! Drive stakes in every sixteen inches on the outside of the form, snug up against its sides. This will keep the sides of the slab straight.

It's critical to keep your slab level in all directions. Adjust the sides of the form to get this right. You can use a level for this but I really recommend a laser level. Then nail the stakes to the sides of the form securely.

Does Your Slab Need Control Joints?

Good question indeed! If it does, this is the time to put them in. (You can see them in driveways to see what I'm talking about.) Here's the rule of thumb: say you're pouring a slab for a patio. If it exceeds 10 feet in any given direction, then you should use control joints.

It's Time to Pour the Concrete into the Form

Home improvement stores and tool rental outlets will rent you a portable cement mixer. This is the best way to go for a small slab project; larger slabs justify scheduling delivery by a concrete company.

Position the cement mixer's outlet chute to pour the wet concrete into one end of the form. Begin the pouring. Use a shovel to push the concrete around and work it into all the nooks and crannies of the form.

Bear in mind that if you have to wade out in the concrete to work it, you really do need to wear your rubber boots. Concrete contains lye, and it's not too nice to your skin. Can you believe they used to put that stuff in soap? No wonder folks didn't bathe often.

Beginning the Concrete Finishing Process

After filling the form, level it with the edge of a 2" X 4". It should be long enough to overlap the form on both sides. Push and pull it in a sawing motion across the top of the form. Start at one end (your choice) and work it down to the opposite end. This process is called the "screed."

Apply the Darby

Now it's time to use the darby. I have absolutely no idea where this tool got its name, but you've got to admit, it sounds pretty cool! (Or is it just me?) The darby is a tool that smooths the surface of the concrete; it should be used on slabs small enough that you can reach everywhere by hand.

Larger projects such as a driveway, large patio, or a carport should be done with a bull float. The bull float is similar to the darby, and performs the same service, but it's outfitted with a pole so that you can work long-distance.

Whichever tool you use, use smooth, overlapping arcs. Push down while smoothing to remove lumps while filling any low spots. Take care not to work it too hard or the concrete will blister. Can you see where we're going with this? We're progressively fine-tuning the slab as it cures.

Next, wait until you see water beginning to appear on top of the slab. The time this takes to happen depends of factors such as humidity, etc. Next, you'll see that the water will reabsorb into the slab. Start testing the surface of the concrete. When your thumb, pressed into the surface of the concrete, leaves a quarter-of-an-inch deep impression, you'll know that it's time to edge and groove the concrete slab.

*Note -- If you put in control joints prior to pouring the slab, you don't need to use the groover. Groovy!

So why groove at all, if it just gets covered up? Well, the slab will be subjected all kinds of forces over its lifespan. The grooves provide the concrete slab with a vertical plane to crack, if it must. To be effective, the groove should be 1/4 of the slab's thickness in depth.

It's Time to Float and Trowel your Concrete Slab

How much pressure should you apply with the float? In this step is where concrete finishing becomes an art, like taping and floating drywall. It depends on the hardness of the concrete slab at this point. If you've never done this before, just start off with a light touch and get the feel of it -- it's all a matter of experience.

Next, it's time to begin to trowel the slab using your steel trowel. Think of this step as like floating, except that its objective is to take the concrete slab to more precise levels of smoothness. Further successive passes yield more precise results.

Some applications don't want or need any further smoothing of the surface. When would this be? Sidewalks fall in this category. If you're planning on laying ceramic tile on the slab using mortar, a super-slick surface isn't needed. Also, don't smooth too much any time a non-slip surface is called for. You can give it a broom finish at this point.

Trowel it the first time, and if a smoother surface is desired, let it dry out more, and then trowel it another time. Generally speaking, three passes will yield the best results. Beyond this, you won't notice any improvement.

Finally, let the concrete slab dry completely, and then remove the form and discard the lumber.

Ask any real estate agent, and she'll tell you that when it comes to home equity and return on investment, the two most important rooms are the kitchen and the bathroom. Forget the fancy pool; it's nice, and it might close the deal at sale time, but prospective buyers are going to decide yea or nay in the kitchen.

The kitchen is a focal point for family gatherings and entertaining guests. So what are the main components of the typical kitchen? Well, there's the major appliances. They should match and be energy-efficient. Storage? There should be plenty of cabinets to stash food, dishes, pots and pans.

But what really stands out are the kitchen countertops. This is where the real work is done. Because of that, lighting should be focused on them, literally putting them in the spotlight.

Whether you're planning on building a new home or you're rolling up your sleeves for a remodel, you have a lot of choices when it comes to selecting the countertops. The things to consider are personal preference, aesthetics, matching the rest of the decor, and, of course, budget. Let's have a look at some of the choices.

Tools for the Project

• Wet saw
• Scraper
• Notched trowel
• Tile spacers
• Electric drill
• Ribbon mixer
• Utility knife
• Claw hammer
• Small pry bar
• Knee pads (Trust me!)
• Chalk line
• Tape Measure
• Rubber mallet
• Grout float and sponge
  

Preparing the Sub-floor

We wanted ceramic tile in the living room but wanted to keep the carpet until the kid could navigate without falling down. I found that the easiest way to remove the carpet was to pull it off the tack strips, cut it into 5' wide strips, roll them up, and use plastic tape to secure them. Then, I did the same with the padding. Next, use the claw hammer and pry bar to take up the tack strip. If there are any drywall compound splatters on the slab from the initial construction, scrape them up.

Now, to get the slab clean, don't sweep; the dust that has sifted through the carpet is very fine and will go airborne. Use a shop-vac. Eyeball the slab carefully. Minor imperfections are alright but if you have major ones, skim them with thinset.

Do Your Tile Layout

Find the center of the room in both directions and snap chalk lines. Visualize this; the chalk lines will look like a big plus sign with the intersection being in the exact center of the room. These are your "control lines." Be sure that your control lines are perpendicular. Use the 3-4-5 method and adjust as needed.

Now it's simply a matter of measuring back to find your border tiles (taking the grout line spacing into consideration). Once you have the border tile size, snap chalk lines so you'll know where to start laying tile. The lines will be parallel to the control lines so the borders might vary in size a bit as you go down the wall. Don't do all four sides of the room; you only need two walls (intersecting in the corner you'll be starting out of). Leave an exit; don't be like the guy that painted himself into a corner!

Mix the Mortar and Lay the Tile

I used mortar on my floor but there are other adhesives out there as well. Your choice. Spread the mortar or adhesive with the trowel evenly and begin laying the tile using the spacers. I like to lay about two rows of four full tiles on one chalk line and then cut and lay the borders. Then I do the same for the other line. Seat each tile by lightly rapping it with a rubber mallet.

Remember to spread the mortar slightly beyond where the tile will lay so there's no void. Voids cause tiles to crack at some time in your future, drawing displeasure from your spousal unit and casting a shadow of doubt over your impressive DIY skills. Don't go there.

All done? Clean up your tools and have an adult beverage of your choice.

Time to Grout!

Grouting is the fun part. I let the mortar dry for twenty four hours first. Mix the grout using the ribbon mixer again. I know you can buy it premixed, but that's cost-prohibitive for all but the smallest of projects. Start grouting where you started laying the tile if that worked well for you. Arm yourself with the sponge in a bucket of water.

First scoop some grout onto the float and work it in between the tiles (removing the spacers as you go). Then grab your sponge, wring it out, and start wiping the grout off the tile surface with a light touch, and forming the concave shape typical to grout lines. As the tiles dry off, you'll see a glaze on them. Don't worry about that now; you'll wipe it off with cheesecloth later.

Finally, after a day or so after the grout's dry, come back and apply a high-quality grout sealer. Other than nailing up the baseboard, your work here is done. As before, clean up your tools and enjoy an adult beverage. You've earned it!



Additional resources:
Laying a vinyl tile floor (This Old House)
Tile setting tools (The Tile Doctor)
Installing hardwood floor (Hometips)
Laying floor tile (Hammerzone)