DIY Life

Sliding doors come in two flavors: they work like a charm or they're a pain in the buttocks. Because of their very nature, things can go wrong. For most repairs, the door will need to be removed. No big mystery here; just raise it up and swing it outward. Here's a few problems and their solutions:

• The door won't roll. Inspect the rollers. If they're loose, tighten them. If they're broken, replace them. Is the track bent? It can usually be tapped back into shape using a wood block and a hammer.
• The door doesn't glide like it used to or jumps off the track. Check the bottom rollers and track. Clean them both carefully and lubricate them with paraffin or silicone spray.
• The catch doesn't catch. Door catches don't last forever and if they won't catch properly, they won't lock either. Sometimes they get bent and don't mate up properly, and sometimes they just wear out. If it's broken or worn out, just replace it. If it's bent, remove it and clamp it in your vise. Use needle-nose pliers to straighten it out. Replace it and test it. It should click and catch when the door slides up and mates with the frame.
  

Use these tips and you'll be slidin' and glidin' in no time!

One of the worst kinds of home break-ins is the kind where the bad guy just kicks in the front or back door. It doesn't really matter that your deadbolt is engaged; it only extends a couple of inches at most and the door jamb doesn't take much to splinter.

But with a little effort you can greatly enhance the holding power of the deadbolt. When the wall is framed and the door rough opening is made, the opening is actually an inch or two wider than the door jamb requires. This allows for plumbing the jamb. Wooden shims are inserted between the framing studs and the jambs.

So this is what you do -

1. Remove the trim screwed to the jamb that receives the deadbolt.
2. Cut a piece of rigid metal electrical conduit about six inches long.
3. Use a paddle bit the same size as the O.D. of the conduit and drill through the jamb and framing studs.
4. Squirt a bit of glue inside the hole.
5. Insert the conduit into the hole until it's flush and re-install the trim.
   

Now, it's not just the jamb holding the deadbolt, you've got the strength of the stud working for you!

How familiar is this: a TV commercial comes on, showing a calm, peaceful household. A typical June Cleaver type mom is humming and doing the dishes. Cute daughter is upstairs just bedding down with her cuddly teddy bear. All of a sudden, all hell breaks loose!

Alarms start wailing, lights are flashing, and a guy wearing a ski mask is high-tailing it down the sidewalk. Cut away to a dimly-lit command center. A very serious young man is speaking to June Cleaver, "Ma'am, it's all taken care of. Help is on the way."

That's right, they're selling you an alarm system. But Max at zedomax.com will show you how to build your own alarm system in under five minutes. Just follow his instructions. Don't think he can do it? He's even got a video that proves it! Here's what you'll need:

• A CB280 Start Kit
• A CLCD420-B
• A 4X4 Keypad
• A Keypad Controller

Max also includes the source code and explains that you can customize it with menus, scheduling, etc. Bottom line, you can geek this thing to your heart's content. June Cleaver not included, some assembly required!

Alarms, 2 way voice, video surveillance; you can ditch all these home security systems and follow Big Lou's advice for a DIY security system. Here's what you need:

1. Big boots
2. Large men's jacket
3. Gun and Riffle magazine
4. Beer

Curious about this odd combination of materials and how they come together to make one exceptionally reliable security system? Check out her video. Big Lou is a widowed mother of 4 teenage boys and the queen of DIY. Originally from New York, she takes care of all the repairs and maintenance in her Long Island home. She's gorgeous, tough and down right hilarious. Enjoy.