DIY Life

When you're planning a patio, carport, outside storage shed, or a standing porch cover, the first thing you need to consider is your concrete slab.

The challenge of pouring a concrete slab yourself is not too big -- with the proper planning. Because this is a DIY project, your concrete slab cost is bearable; the cost can just be added to your home equity. This article will provide instructions for building a form, pouring, and finishing a concrete slab.

When you're in the planning mode, you need to consider any plumbing and electrical conduit that will be incorporated in the slab. Failure to prepare for these concerns will mean the concrete slab will have to be trenched and patched.

Trenching and patching is a tedious and expensive process not to be reckoned with! The key is to make sure everything is properly planned and laid out before any wet concrete graces the work site. The trick, if you're dealing with anything sophisticated, is to use a well thought-out sketch, or a permit-approved blueprint if your municipality requires it.

Tools and Materials:

• Hammer
• Wooden stakes
• Mason's string
• 1" X 4" lumber for the concrete form
• 2" X 4" stud for the screed
• Shovel
• Steel wire mesh
• Side cutting pliers
• Steel tie wire
• 4' Level or laser
• Darby or bull float
• Magnesium float
• Steel trowel

Lay Out Your Slab's Location

The first thing to do is to decide on where the concrete slab will be located and what its size will be. Once you've got that nailed down, you'll need to drive stakes at the slab's corners, and connect the corners using string line. This represent 's your slab's boundary.

Be sure that your lines are square. Use the 3-4-5 method, then make any adjustments until you're spot on.

Prepare the Slab's Location

Pinch up the sod inside the area located within the string line. Next, level the dirt.

Now it's time to trench the footing. This is completely around the perimeter just inside the string line. Dig it one foot wide, and at least six inches deep. The purpose of the slab's footing is to strengthen and stabilize the slab.

Some municipalities require that a vapor barrier be placed on the dirt prior to pouring the slab. Inquire with the regional building code to determine whether this needs to be done.

The rationale for a vapor barrier is that moisture migrates up through the slab by capillary action and diffusion. This moisture is bad news for floor coverings and some folks claim it can be a health issue if mold develops.

Now, install steel mesh in the footing for small slabs, and rebar for larger slabs. Secure it together with pliers at the intersections with tie wire. This will strengthen the footing where the pressure is greatest. Again, consult your local building code for your particular situation.

Build Your Form

The concrete slab needs a wooden form to keep the concrete contained during its curing and finishing process. Use 1" X 4" or 1" X 6" boards for the form's sides. The string line serves as a guide and ensures your form is square and true.

You'll nail the form together. This is for stability; wet concrete exerts a lot of pressure! Drive stakes in every sixteen inches on the outside of the form, snug up against its sides. This will keep the sides of the slab straight.

It's critical to keep your slab level in all directions. Adjust the sides of the form to get this right. You can use a level for this but I really recommend a laser level. Then nail the stakes to the sides of the form securely.

Does Your Slab Need Control Joints?

Good question indeed! If it does, this is the time to put them in. (You can see them in driveways to see what I'm talking about.) Here's the rule of thumb: say you're pouring a slab for a patio. If it exceeds 10 feet in any given direction, then you should use control joints.

It's Time to Pour the Concrete into the Form

Home improvement stores and tool rental outlets will rent you a portable cement mixer. This is the best way to go for a small slab project; larger slabs justify scheduling delivery by a concrete company.

Position the cement mixer's outlet chute to pour the wet concrete into one end of the form. Begin the pouring. Use a shovel to push the concrete around and work it into all the nooks and crannies of the form.

Bear in mind that if you have to wade out in the concrete to work it, you really do need to wear your rubber boots. Concrete contains lye, and it's not too nice to your skin. Can you believe they used to put that stuff in soap? No wonder folks didn't bathe often.

Beginning the Concrete Finishing Process

After filling the form, level it with the edge of a 2" X 4". It should be long enough to overlap the form on both sides. Push and pull it in a sawing motion across the top of the form. Start at one end (your choice) and work it down to the opposite end. This process is called the "screed."

Apply the Darby

Now it's time to use the darby. I have absolutely no idea where this tool got its name, but you've got to admit, it sounds pretty cool! (Or is it just me?) The darby is a tool that smooths the surface of the concrete; it should be used on slabs small enough that you can reach everywhere by hand.

Larger projects such as a driveway, large patio, or a carport should be done with a bull float. The bull float is similar to the darby, and performs the same service, but it's outfitted with a pole so that you can work long-distance.

Whichever tool you use, use smooth, overlapping arcs. Push down while smoothing to remove lumps while filling any low spots. Take care not to work it too hard or the concrete will blister. Can you see where we're going with this? We're progressively fine-tuning the slab as it cures.

Next, wait until you see water beginning to appear on top of the slab. The time this takes to happen depends of factors such as humidity, etc. Next, you'll see that the water will reabsorb into the slab. Start testing the surface of the concrete. When your thumb, pressed into the surface of the concrete, leaves a quarter-of-an-inch deep impression, you'll know that it's time to edge and groove the concrete slab.

*Note -- If you put in control joints prior to pouring the slab, you don't need to use the groover. Groovy!

So why groove at all, if it just gets covered up? Well, the slab will be subjected all kinds of forces over its lifespan. The grooves provide the concrete slab with a vertical plane to crack, if it must. To be effective, the groove should be 1/4 of the slab's thickness in depth.

It's Time to Float and Trowel your Concrete Slab

How much pressure should you apply with the float? In this step is where concrete finishing becomes an art, like taping and floating drywall. It depends on the hardness of the concrete slab at this point. If you've never done this before, just start off with a light touch and get the feel of it -- it's all a matter of experience.

Next, it's time to begin to trowel the slab using your steel trowel. Think of this step as like floating, except that its objective is to take the concrete slab to more precise levels of smoothness. Further successive passes yield more precise results.

Some applications don't want or need any further smoothing of the surface. When would this be? Sidewalks fall in this category. If you're planning on laying ceramic tile on the slab using mortar, a super-slick surface isn't needed. Also, don't smooth too much any time a non-slip surface is called for. You can give it a broom finish at this point.

Trowel it the first time, and if a smoother surface is desired, let it dry out more, and then trowel it another time. Generally speaking, three passes will yield the best results. Beyond this, you won't notice any improvement.

Finally, let the concrete slab dry completely, and then remove the form and discard the lumber.

I'm sort of embarrassed to admit it, but mildew got its spotty little grip on my bedroom curtains this winter. The fabric was sort of bunched up against the window pane a lot. Little did I realize it, but every sunny morning was like a mildew fiesta back there.

When sunlight and warmth hit the cold glass, condensation formed on the inside of the pane. The curtains soaked up the moisture and the warmth. Lo and behold, a big ugly patch of mildew was the result. Yikes!

What makes mildew so revolting is its sheer persistence. Once it gets its hooks into any household surface--whether it be a painted ceiling, an item of clothing, or a home fabric such as curtains--removal is genuinely tough.

You chose vinyl siding for its clean look, and because you'll never have to deal with it flaking or rotting the way cedar will. Vinyl siding has lost its tacky reputation and has quickly become the most popular siding material in the United States.

Although it's more durable than alternative sidings, over time vinyl siding can start to look dull and dirty. When that happens, you'll want to give it a good cleaning. Luckily, this is a project that you can easily take on yourself. You'll start with some important prep work, then grab your power washer or bucket and give your siding a solid clean.

How to prepare your vinyl siding for cleaning

1. Cover any outside light fixtures or electrical outlets
2. Move all your outdoor furniture and toys away from the house
3. Cover any plants close to the house with plastic sheets
4. Check for mold, mildew or dirt. These will be dark spots on the siding. To test it out, put a drop of bleach on the dark spot. Mold will turn white while dirt will stay black.
5. Get rid of mildew with 5 parts water to 1 part oxygen bleach.

Once you've finished the prep work, you're ready to get started washing the siding. There are two schools of thought when it comes to cleaning vinyl siding. Many people prefer using a power washer, while others use a bucket, cloth, and some good old-fashioned elbow grease. Whichever you choose, these are some great instructions on how to clean vinyl siding. If you'd like to avoid commercial cleaning chemicals, Diane has an eco-friendly vinyl cleaning solution. The luxury of this material is that you won't find yourself having to clean it very often, but when you do, it will be restored to its original clean, vibrant condition.

The DIY vampire fangs in this video are the ultimate Halloween costume accessory. Avoid the store bought fangs that are uncomfortable to wear and leave you looking and talking like they are about to fall out all night. These fangs are molded to your gums making a seamless fit, and are very realistic looking vampire teeth.

Bre and Eric are hilarious as they make spinach molds of their own teeth. With this negative mold they pour plastic to make a positive mold. The actual tooth is made of a two part nail acrylic. You'll end by carving the tooth into a sharp tooth with a Dremel tool. Leave the gum line and ridges so that it comfortably forms to your teeth. Watch their step by step video for the full vampire fang transformation. You've only got a couple more days to perfect your costume. These last minute touches will set you apart and get you ready for a fearsome Halloween.

Everyone knows that the best way to win a costume contest at Halloween is to make your own gear -- and be good at it. The costume that's custom tailored for you, and detailed by you, is going to be so much more impressive than something that you can buy off the rack for fifty bucks. Careful selection of appropriate accessories, whether you made them or not, is one way to take your look the extra mile.

Instructables user Honus has gone more like the extra marathon, with his article detailing How to make a Green Lantern ring -- including a glowing version. You'll learn to make several different styles of the Green Lantern's ring, by creating a "wax pattern" (an exact model of the item you want to make, only in wax), a rubber mold, and finally, a resin ring, with optional instructions for including an LED so the ring can glow.

It's a revision of an article that was initially about silver-casting, and those instructions are included, as well. (The author explains that he rewrote the article because most people don't have access to silver-casting equipment, whereas it's pretty easy to cast resin at home. I'd like to see a version of this article written for metal clay, which is somewhere in between in terms of difficulty: it shrinks when it's fired.) Overall, not only will you learn to make an extremely cool ring, you'll also learn a lot about the basics of jewelry design... and maybe come one giant leap closer to the costume contest prize.

When it comes to how-to advice on cleaning vinyl siding, I'm amazed at how often the word "bleach" comes up. Like here and here, for example. But think about it -- is bleach really necessary? After all, it's harmful to the environment, including your very own local waterways, flora and fauna. And not just wild fauna -- I met someone whose little dachshund was killed when a careless neighbor accidentally sprayed the pup with a bleach solution while cleaning his siding.

Here are eco-friendly tips to help you keep your vinyl siding looking like new.

Keeping pets safe during home improvement projects is a concern of many DIY'ers. Especially when your project spans a few days and takes up some of the household space that pets typically use. When I think of problems between pets and projects I imagine cat prints in pain or dogs underfoot. The challenges of home improvement projects with pets are far more serious. Pets can become seriously ill or even die from some of the chemicals, tool and other toxins that are revealed while working on these projects.

According to Tom Kraeutler, AOL Home Improvement Editor, in his article Home Improvement Safety For Pets, there are seven project items to be cautious about.

1. Paints
2. Tools and supplies
3. Solvents
4. Glue
5. Concrete
6. Mold
7. Lead

The article discusses these in more depth, hazards range from items we use to build or clean, to toxins that may be uncovered while making changes. He continues to cover other more common household items that threaten pets and makes recommendations for dealing with each.

Ultimately, with careful planning, diligent clean-up and a good understanding of potential hazards, your project should go smoothly and pets stay healthy.

If you haven't noticed, we here at DIY Life love us some vinegar. We use it for nearly everything: to freshen smokey-smelling clothes, kill weeds, clean washing machines, and I even hear it can be used for cooking! We're always on the lookout for new and interesting ways to use our favorite pungent-smelling super liquid, so you can imagine my excitement when I ran across this recipe for vinegar-based mold neutralizer.

According to the original article, many chemical-based mold killers contain chlorine bleach (or more specifically sodium hypochlorite), which when mixed with water can form hydrochlorous acid. This type of acid is dangerous in many different ways, mainly because it can kill you if you look at it funny or drink of a glass of it, so finding a solution that won't create such a volatile product would be nice. Enter vinegar, to the rescue!

Simply mix three parts vinegar to two part water, pour into a spray bottle, shake well, squirt on the unsuspecting mold, and wipe away after an hour or so. As you can see from the photo above, the results are quite impressive. If you're looking for a preventive approach, simple spray your vinegar on any surface you want to remain mold-free. LONG LIVE VINEGAR!!!

[via Curbly]

Between my two oldest children I have a whopping total of 14 years of lunch making and packing invested in them. It is always a struggle to find healthy food choices that they will actually eat. Sometimes I go on baking binges to entice their appetites, other times I resort to the evils of Lunchables.

Today I read about a mom, Biggie, who has made lunch making and packing a true art form. Her blog, Lunch in A Box, is full of great ideas, but the one that caught my eye is her hard boiled eggs that are colored and molded into cute shapes.

In her post she describes the process in which these beauties are born. The gist of it is that Biggie boils the eggs and then peels them while they are still very warm. She then inserts them into shapes, which in this case are Williams and Sonoma ice cream sandwich molds, and uses strong rubber bands to secure the tops. The molds are then placed in cold water and removed. Once out of the containers, the shapes are soaked in food coloring until the desired shade is reached. I am so inspired by this idea that I am going to give it a try!